LIBRARY 

UNIVERSITY   OF 
V        CALIFORNIA 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

AGRICULTURE 
BEQUEST 

OF 
ANITA  D.  S.  BLAKE 


Marion  Harland's 
Complete  Cook  Book 


MARION    HARLAND 


Marion  Harland's 
Complete  Cook  Book 


A  PRACTICAL  AND  EXHAUSTIVE  MANUAL  OF 
COOKERY  AND  HOUSEKEEPING 

CONTAINING 

THOUSANDS  OF  CAREFULLY  PROVED  RECIPES— PREPARED  FOR  THE 
HOUSEWIFE,  NOT  FOR  THE  CHEF— AND  MANY  CHAPTERS 
ON  THE  CARE  AND  MANAGEMENT  OF  THE  HOME—- 
THE FINAL  EXPRESSION  OF  HER 
LIFE'S  EXPERIENCE 


BY  MARION   HARLAND 

Author  of 
Common  Sense  in  the  Household,  Etc. 


FULLY  ILLUSTRATED 


INDIANAPOLIS 

THE  BOBBS-MERRILL  COMPANY 

PUBLISHERS 


COPYRIGHT   1903 
THE  BOBBS-MERRILL  COMPANY 


JUNE 


AGRICULTURE 
GIFT 


PRESS  OF 

BRAUNWORTH  &  CO. 

BOOKBINDERS  AND  PRINTERS 

BROOKLYN.  N.  Y. 


CL 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

PAGE 

MARKETING 3 

CARE  OF  HOUSEHOLD  STORES 6 

KITCHEN  UTENSILS 9 

CHEMISTRY  IN  THE  KITCHEN 12 

CARVING 15 

SERVING  AND  WAITING 18 

AMONG  THE  LINENS  , 23 

THE  CHILDREN  .                                       25 

DIET  AND  DIGESTION 28 

THE  IMPROMPTU  LARDER 32 

FAMILIAR  TALK 

BREAKFAST 34 

BREAKFAST  FRUITS 38 

BREAKFAST  CEREALS .  42 

BREAKFAST  BREADS 46 

HOT  BREAKFAST  BREADS 54 

QUICK  BISCUITS 61 

MUFFINS  AND  THEIR  CONGENERS .63 

WAFFLES 65 

GRIDDLE  CAKES 66 

BREAKFAST  BREADS  OF  INDIAN  MEAL 71 

DIVERS  KINDS  OF  TOAST 75 

EGGS 78 

FAMILIAR  TALK 

WHO  RULES  THE  HOME 89 

FISH  FOR  BREAKFAST 93 

FAMILIAR  TALK 

WHERE  WE  EAT 107 

v 


117 


vi  CONTENTS 

PAGE 

BREAKFAST  MEATS .no 

BREAKFAST  BACON .no 

TRIPE  .  ,        .       .       .        -114 

BEEFSTEAK 116 

KIDNEYS 118 

SWEETBREADS 120 

LIVER 122 

CHICKEN 123 

OTHER  BREAKFAST  MEATS 126 

BREAKFAST  GAME 129 

BREAKFAST  VEGETABLES 131 

FAMILIAR  TALK 

WITH  MARTHA  IN  HER  KITCHEN 137 

THE  FAMILY  LUNCHEON 143 

LUNCHEON  DISHES 145 

FAMILIAR  TALK 

LIVING  TO  LEARN 183 

CROQUETTES 188 

WITH  THE  CASSEROLE 194 

CHEESE  DISHES  FOR  LUNCHEON     ........    198 

THE  TOAST  FAMILY 205 

LUNCHEON  VEGETABLES 207 

SANDWICHES 214 

TEMPTING  PREFIXES  TO  LUNCHEON      .  .        .        .       .        .221 

SALADS        .  -    .       .       .       i     •       •       • 224 

LUNCHEON  FRUITS,  COOKED  AND  RAW     r 241 

SWEET  OMELETS        . 247 

FAMILIAR  TALK 

WITH  THE  NOMINAL  MISTRESS  OF  THE  HOUSE  .        .        .        .    249 

LUNCHEON  CAKES      .       .       .       |      .       .-' 258 

FROSTINGS  FOR  CAKES      .       .       .        .        .        .        .        .        .278 

VARIOUS  FILLINGS  FOR  CAKES 279 

GINGERBREADS 281 

SMALL  CAKES 284 

THE  DOUGHNUT  AND  CRULLER  FAMILY 292 

FAMILIAR  TALK 

A  FRIENDLY  WORD  WITH  "Ou*  MAID"      .    •  .       „        .       .296 


CONTEXTS  vii 

PAGE 
DINNER        *'.'..       .       .      '. 300 

SOUPS    .        .       «  '     »       .       .       .        .       .        .        .  **"  ' .     "  .        .    303 

BISQUES        .*'•„.       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .    314 

CREAM  SOUPS       .       .        .    •  '.    '    .'•  '  ".'  '  -'V-  ?'.r  '     .       .       .    318 
VEGETABLE  SOUPS  WITH  MEAT      .       .  •     .....       ,       .       .       ,    322 

VEGETABLE  SOUPS  WITHOUT  MEAT       .        .  '     '. '  '    '.       .       .    328 

FISH  SOUPS .        .       .       .    333 

FISH ....'.        .       .337 

SAUCES  FOR  FISH  AND  MEAT         .       .       .    '    .       .  '     .       .       .353 
FAMILIAR  TALK 

Is  IMPROMPTU  HOSPITALITY  A  LOST  ART     ...       .       .361 

MEATS        '. .       .    '  .       .    367 

BEEF      .        .        .       .        .        .        .        .        .  '    .       .       .       .367 

VEAL     .•..'. .       .    377 

MUTTON .    385 

MEAT  AND  POULTRY  PIES        .       .       .       .  ' '  .  *   .       .       .    388 

PORK .       .    395 

POULTRY      .  " '   .      V     .       .400 

TURKEY        . .      '.       .    400 

DUCKS •       .404 

CHICKENS      . .       .405 

GEESE    . .       .413 

GAME    .       .       .       .       .       .        .        .        .  '     .       .       .       .       .415 

DINNER  VEGETABLES       . .427 

EVEN  THREADED  LIVING        .  ..*.....    498 

SWEETS  OF  ALL  SORTS    1       .       .'"'     .       .       .       .       .       .       .    5°3 

PIES       ....      ..       ...       ,       .       .       .       .        .    5°3 

HOT  PUDDINGS    ...       ..       ...       .       .       .       .       .    5l8 

BAKED  PUDDINGS       .       .       ...       .       .       .       .    "    .    528 

PANCAKES  AND  DUMPLINGS 548 

SOME  PUDDING  SAUCES     .        .       .       .       .       ,       .       .       .551 

COLD  PUDDINGS  AND  CUSTARDS .    555 

WHIPPED  CREAM  DISHES 558 

BLANC  MANGE 563 

FRUIT  DESSERTS 576 

ICE  CREAM  AND  ICES       . 5^° 


viii  CONTENTS 

PAGE 

HOME-MADE  CANDIES .  590 

AFTERNOON  TEA ,  604 

SOME  DAINTIES  FOR  AFTERNOON  TEA  .  .  .  .  .  610 

STEWED  FRUIT,  PRESERVES,  FRUIT  JELLIES,  ETCETERA  .  .  .  617 

PICKLES 633 

CATSUPS,  ET  CETERA  . .648 

THE  HOME  BREW 652 

FORMAL  BREAKFASTS  AND  LUNCHEONS        .        .        .        .        .        .  663 

CONCERNING  DINNER  GIVING 668 

SOME  STUDIES  OF  COLOR  IN  FAMILY  DINNERS  ....  673 

AN  EVENING  RECEPTION  AND  CHAFING-DISH  SUPPER  .  .  .  676 
FAMILIAR  TALK 

COMMON  SENSE  AND  "ETIQUETTE" .681 

CANNED  GOODS  ............  684 

"HANDY"  HOUSEHOLD  HINTS  .  . 693 

FINAL  FAMILIAR  TALK 

EMERGENCIES,  BROKEN  CHINA,  ET  CETERA 715 

SOME  CULINARY  TERMS 719 

FOR  READY  REFERENCE =724 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING  PAGE 

AFTER  DINNER  COFFEE  IN  A  COZY  CORNER 672 

AFTERNOON  TEA  ON  THE  VERANDA 606 

ANCHOVIES  ON  TOAST 464 

BEEF,  ROAST     ............  380 

BELGIAN  HARE,  ROAST          .........  416 

BEVERAGES 6^2 

BIRTHDAY  CAKE               .        .       .        . 520 

BISCUITS,  HOT           .               364 

BRANDIED  PEACHES,  GARNISHED         .......  628 

BREAKFAST  EQUIPAGE -36 

CAKE,  SLICED  HOME-MADE 364 

CALF'S  HEAD,  BOILED    . 380 

CAVIAR  TOAST{  GARNISHED 222 

CHEESE  AND  EGG  ENTREES         .               202 

CHICKEN  PIE,  SMALL      ........  388 

CHICKEN  PIE  IN  SILVER  STAND ,  388 

CHICKEN  OMELET 84 

CHICKEN  SALAD  MANTLED  WITH  CREAM  MAYONNAISE  AND  GAR- 
NISHED    = 232 

CHICKEN,  SCALLOPED ,  404 

CHICKEN,  SCALLOPED 126 

COD,  BOILED     .........       ^       ..  344 

COFFEE,  CAPITAL  CUP  OF ,  364 

COVERED  CHEESE  DISH  FOR  LIMBURGER          .....  202 

CRAB,  SCALLOPED,  IN  SHELL .156 

CREAMED  MACARONI  IN  PINEAPPLE  CHEESE  SHELL       ,        .        .  202 

CROQUETTES .       .  126 

ix 


x  ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING  PAGE 

DAFFODILS       ........  84 

DINNER,  A  LITTLE 668 

"DINNER,  A  PICK-UP"    ..........      364 

EGGS  ......  ,  78 

EGGS,  BAKED    .,    •/.  ,     .       .       _. 78 

EGG  OMELET    ....  .78 

EGGS,  STUFFED        .....  .        .      202 

ENTREES    .       .       ...  ,        ,        .        .  .        .126 

FISH    .........  ioo 

FISH    .       .       .....        .        .        .     •  .  .        -344 

FLOATING  ISLAND    .        . .       520-558 

FONDU  OF  CHEESE 202 

FRUIT  SALAD,  GARNISHED 232 

FRUIT  SALAD,  IN  BANANA-SKIN    ...  ....      232 

GAME 416 

GAME  PIE  IN  NAPKINED  DISH 388 

GRAPE  FRUIT  PREPARED  FOR  LUNCHEON 222 

GREEN  PEAS,  GARNISHED 464 

HALIBUT  STEAK ioo 

HARLAND,  MARION Frontispiece 

ICE  CREAM  WITH  HOT  MAPLE  SAUCE         ....'..      582 

INDIVIDUAL  FLOATING  ISLAND 558 

IRISH  STEW  AND  BROWNED  POTATOES 364 

LAMB  CHOPS .126 

LOBSTER  CUTLETS  AND  WHIPPED  POTATOES 156 

MERINGUE  GLACE  AND  WHIPPED  CREAM 558 

MOCK  PIGEON 380 

MOULD  OF  JELLY,  GARNISHED      .  628 

ORANGE  MARMALADE 582 

OYSTER  COCKTAILS 222 

OYSTER  PATTIES      .        .        .       ...  .......       .        .        .        .        .      344 

OYSTERS  SCALLOPED       .        .        .        ,        ......        .     ,.  .        84 

PAIR  OF  BOILED  FOWLS,  GARNISHED        ,..,..       .  .  .   .       .        .      404 

PAIR  OF  ROAST  DUCKS 404 

PARTRIDGE,  ROAST 416 


ILLUSTRATIONS  xi 

FACING  PAGE 

PERCH,  FRIED          ...........  100 

PLUM  PUDDING 6  520 

POULTRY  AND  ENTREES         ,        ,        .        .        :       .       .       .       .  404 

PUNCH,  STRAWBERRY       ....        :        c        ....  628 

QUAIL  ON  TOAST  416 

RANGE  SCREEN  LOWERED  TO  SHUT  IN  HEAT  .  140 
RANGE  SCREEN  PARTLY  RAISED  .  .  .  •  .  .  .138 
SALADS  .  .  '.  .236 

SALMON,  BOILED 344 

SANDWICHES 

AFTERNOON  TEA               ,  582 

BRUNETTE  .;....=..„...  216 

CRESCENT 216 

WHOLE  WHEAT  BREAD  .        .        .        .       .        .        .       .        .  216 

SIDE-BOARD  AND  CHINA  CLOSET          ,  7l% 

SMELTS,  FRIED 100 

SWEETBREADS,  BRAISED 404 

SWEETBREAD  CUTLETS  AND  SARATOGA  POTATOES  .  .  .  .156 
TABLES 

AUTUMN  DINNER 300 

BRIDESMAID'S,  WITH  PINK  ROSES         ....        =        «  500 

CHRISTMAS,  DECORATED  WITH   HOLLY        .....  300 

DECORATED  WITH  PINE  CONES 266 

DECORATED  WITH  CHRYSANTHEMUMS  AND  PALMS    .        .        .  300 

EASTER  WEDDING  BREAKFAST ,        .  266 

ENGAGEMENT  DINNER 500 

JAPANESE  DECORATIONS  FOR  CHILDREN'S  LUNCHEON     .       .  266 

SUNFLOWER  LUNCHEON 500 

A  LITTLE  DINNER 668 

TOAST  AND  ANCHOVIES  GARNISHED    ......  464 

TOMATO  SALAD '  .  236 

TOMATO  SALAD  WITH  WHIPPED  CREAM  DRESSING         .       .       .  236 

TOMATOES,  STUFFED  AND  GARNISHED 464 

TROUT,  FRIED          ...........  344 

TURKEY,  ROAST 404 


xii  ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING  PAGE 

VEAL  AND  BEEF 38° 

VEAL  CHOPS  AND  SPINACH   .               380 

VENISON,  ROAST 416 

WHIPPED  CREAM 520 

WHIPPED  CREAM,  GARNISHED  WITH  CHERRIES       ....  558 

WOODCOCK,  ROAST 416 


Marion  Harland's 
Complete  Cook  Book 


DEDICATORY  PREFACE 

To  My  Fellozv  Housekeepers ,  North,  East,  South  and  West : 

THIRTY-ONE  years  ago  I  wrote,  dedicated  to  you,  and  sent  to 
press,  COMMON  SENSE  IN  THE  HOUSEHOLD. 

The  daring  step  was  taken  in  direct  opposition  to  the  advice  of 
all  who  knew  my  purpose.  I  was  assured  that  I  should  lose  the 
modest  measure  of  literary  reputation  I  had  won  by  novels,  short 
stories  and  essays  if  I  persisted  in  the  ignoble  enterprise. 

One  critic  forewarned  me  that  "whatever  I  might  write  after 
this  preposterous  new  departure  would  be  tainted,  for  the  imag- 
inative reader  and  reviewer,  with  the  odor  of  the  kitchen." 

He  may  have  been  right.  I  do  not  know  nor  do  I  care  whether 
his  judgment  or  mine  was  the  better.  I  gave  my  first  cook-book 
to  you  because  I  knew  from  my  own  experience,  as  a  young,  raw 
and  untaught  housekeeper,  that  you  needed  just  what  I  had  to 
say.  The  hundreds  of  thousands  of  copies  which  have  been  sold, 
the  thousands  of  grateful  letters  received  from  my  toiling  sisters, 
testify  to  that  need  and  that  to  me  was  appointed  the  gracious 
task  of  supplying  it. 

Under  the  impulse  of  a  conviction  as  solemn  and  as  strong  I 
offer  you  now  a  work  embodying  the  best  results  of  mature 
Housewifery.  Or,  as  I  would  rather  name  it,  Housemotherhood. 
Before  I  put  pen  to  paper  I  stipulated  that  the  contract  with  the 
publishers  of  THE  COMPLETE  COOK  BOOK  should  contain  a 
clause  forbidding  me  to  prepare  and  issue  any  book  of  a  similar 
character  during  the  next  ten  years. 

Whatever  I  have  to  say  to  you  through  the  medium  of  a 
printed  and  bound  volume  in  all  these  years  must  be  said  here. 

I  have  had  this  thought  in  my  mind  with  the  writing  of  every 
page.  In  every  page,  in  every  line,  in  every  word  I  have  done 

i 


2  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

my  best  to  serve  you.  I  know  you  well  enough  to  be  assured  that 
you  will  not  forget  this.  If  such  a  thing  might  be  I  would  have 
every  dish  compounded  according  to  my  directions  a  souvenir  to 
each  of  you  of  one  who  has  given  thirty-odd  of  the  best  years  of 
a  busy  life  to  the  task  of  dignifying  housewifery  into  a  profes- 
sion, and  ennobling  the  practice  of  it  in  your  eyes. 

For  the  fair  degree  of  success  which  has  followed  these  efforts 
I  am  thankful.  Thankful,  too,  to  those  of  you  whose  apprecia- 
tion of  my  aim  and  my  work  has  held  up  weary  hands  and  stayed 
the  failing  heart. 

This  talk,  made  purposely  as  "familiar"  as  if  I  were  face-to- 
face  with  each  of  you,  is  not  a  valedictory,  but  an  au  revoir. 
The  book  in  your  hands  contains  the  gleanings  of  an  active  dec- 
ade. Housewifery  keeps  pace  with  other  professions  in  the 
swinging  march  of  an  Age  of  Wonders.  I  have  faith  in  it  and  in 
myself  to  believe  that  I  shall  go  on  with  the  fascinating  work  of 
accumulating.  I  add,  hopefully,  I  have  also  faith  in  you  that,  in 
the  future  as  in  the  thirty  years  overpast,  you  will  aid  me  in  that 
accumulation. 

MARION  HARLAND. 


MARKETING 

MUTTON  and  BEEF  may  be  called  the  Marketer's  Perennials. 
They  are  in  season  all  the  year  round. 

In  buying  mutton  see  that  the  fat  is  clear,  very  firm  and  white ; 
the  flesh  close  of  grain,  and  ruddy.  Buy  your  meat  fresh,  even  if 
you  mean  to  hang  it  in  the  cellar  for  a  week — or  longer  in  cold 
weather.  "Begin  fair!" 

The  best  cuts  of  mutton  are  loin,  saddle  and  leg.  French 
chops  are  cut  from  the  rib,  the  fat  taken  off  and  several  inches  of 
the  bone  cleaned  from  meat.  They  are  nice  to  look  at,  good  to 
eat — and  expensive.  You  can  do  the  trimming  at  home  when 
you  have  once  seen  it  done  and  save  the  extra  cent  or  two  paid 
for  the  word  "French."  Loin  chops  are  cheaper  and  usually 
more  tender  and  better-flavored. 

A  more  economical  piece  than  the  leg  for  the  housewife  who 
does  her  own  marketing  is  the  fore-quarter.  You  can  bone  and 
stuff  part  of  it  for  a  roast ;  the  chops  are  almost  as  good  as  those 
cut  from  the  loin,  and  the  bones,  when  removed,  make  good 
stock  for  broth.  The  meat  is  really  more  juicy  and  sweet  than 
that  of  the  leg,  and  the  cost  from  two  to  three  cents  a  pound 
less. 

LAMB  is  in  season  from  May  to  November.  What  is  sold  un- 
der that  name  in  winter  is  undersized  mutton,  and  usually  tough 
and  dry. 

BEEF — the  Englishman's  main-stay — is  quite  as  important  in 
the  American  kitchen.  Seek,  in  purchasing,  for  rosy,  red  meat, 
"shot"  with  cream-colored  suet,  dry  and  mealy,  and  a  good  outer 
coat  of  fat.  Press  the  meat  hard  with  the  tip  of  your  thumb. 
If  it  be  flabby,  and,  after  yielding  to  pressure,  retains  the  dent, 
let  it  alone. 


4  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

The  rib  roast  is  a  choice  cut.  It  is  more  comely  when  the 
bones  are  removed,  the  meat  rolled  and  bound  into  a  round.  In 
which  case  insist  upon  having  the  trimmings  sent  home.  You 
pay  for  them,  and,  when  you  order  soup-meat,  for  that  as  well. 
Have  the  bones  cracked,  buy  one  pound  of  coarse  lean  beef  for 
perhaps  ten  cents,  and  you  have  foundation  for  a  good  gravy 
soup,  or  stock  enough  for  several  hashes  and  stews. 

The  round  costs  about  two-thirds  as  much  as  a  rib-roast  and 
half  as  much  as  a  sirloin,  and  serves  admirably  for  a  la  mode 
beef,  or  a  pot-roast. 

The  sirloin  steak  is  far  more  economical  than  a  porterhouse. 
Remove  the  bone  before  cooking.  This  cut  often  contains  really 
more  of  the  coveted  tenderloin  than  the  porterhouse,  and  the  rest 
of  the  steak  is  more  tender,  as  a  rule,  than  the  dearer  cut.  Have 
the  steak  cut  at  least  an  inch  thick. 

Summer  FRESH  PORK  is  less  desirable  than  winter  lamb.  It 
should  be  barred  from  the  market  after  the  first  of  May,  and  not 
allowed  there  before  December  first,  if  then.  The  lean  should  be 
pink,  the  fat  pure  white  and  solid,  the  skin  like  white,  translucent 
parchment.  That  it  is  cheap  and  "goes  far"  recommends  it  to 
many  people. 

The  chine,  the  spareribs  and  loin  are  the  best  cuts  for  roast- 
ing. Pork  chops  are  popular,  and  pork  tenderloins  much  affect- 
ed, even  by  epicures.  Children  and  invalids  should  never  touch 
unsalted  pork  at  its  best  estate. 

VEAL  comes  into  market  earlier  than  genuine  spring  lamb,  and 
is  seasonable  all  the  summer  through.  Be  sure  it  is  not  that 
most  objectionable  variety  of  what  is  rated  by  dieticians  as  a  de- 
cidedly objectionable  meat — known  in  slang  usage  as  "bob-veal." 
No  calf  should  be  slaughtered  until  at  least  six  weeks  old.  The 
meat  should  be  a  clear,  pale  red,  the  fat  very  white,  the  texture 
firm.  Veal  may  be  innutritious,  but  the  knuckle  and,  indeed,  all 
the  bony  parts  are  invaluable  for  soups,  containing  much  gelatin- 
ous matter.  The  breast,  the  fillet  and  loin  are  the  most  popular 
roasting  pieces.  Veal  chops  are  really  better  eating  and  cheaper 
than  the  cutlet,  and  should  be  better  known  to  the  frugal  house- 
wife. 


MARKETING  5 

A  calf's  head,  scraped  free  of  hair  and  well-cleaned,  may  be 
bought  in  country  markets  for  fifty  cents,  and  can  be  made 
into  a  dainty  dish  fit  for  John  and  John's  unexpected  friend. 

Sweetbreads  are  an  acknowledged  delicacy,  and  liver,  properly 
cooked,  will  be  approved  by  all. 

By  the  way,  lamb's  liver  costs  less  than  calf's  liver,  and  is 
more  toothsome. 

In  choosing  POULTRY,  slip  your  bare  forefinger  under  the  wing 
where  it  joins  the  body  and  press  hard  with  the  nail.  If  the  skin 
breaks  easily,  the  fowl  is  probably  young.  Then  try  the  tip  of 
the  breast-bone.  If  the  cartilage  gives  readily  and  springs  back- 
slowly,  the  signs  are  still  favorable.  Next,  look  for  hairs  on  the 
body  and  hard  horny  scales  on  the  legs ;  for  scrawny  necks  and 
a  livid  hue  in  the  flesh — all  unfavorable  indications.  Tough 
fowls  should  be  cheaper  far  than  tender.  If  your  market-man 
calls  them  frankly  ''fowls,"  commend  his  honesty,  and  if  you 
contemplate  a  fricassee  or  chicken  pie,  reward  his  integrity  by  a 
purchase.  Chickens  may  be  "fowls,"  yet  good, — that  is,  nourish- 
ing and  amenable  to  judicious  "tendering." 

A  veteran  housewife,  with  a  reputation  to  support,  tells  me 
she  has  but  one  method  of  securing  really  excellent  meats  for  her 
table :  "When  a  market-man  sells  me  tough  flesh,  or  superan- 
nuated poultry,  or  ancient  fish,  I  give  him  warning.  At  the  sec- 
ond offense,  I  transfer  my  custom  to  another  dealer.  The  rule 
works  well !" 

It  is  especially  useful  when  one  would  be  certain  of  getting 
FRESH  FISH.  Now  that  fish  and  oysters  are  bedded  h  *ce  until 
the  wiliest  connoisseur  may  be  mistaken  in  their  age,  it  behooves 
the  housemother  to  know,  first  of  all,  that  she  is  dealing  with  a 
man  with  a  conscience  as  free  from  reproach  as  she  would  have 
her  halibut,  salmon  and  oysters, 


CARE  OF  HOUSEHOLD  STORES 

APPLES,  POTATOES,  TURNIPS,  CARROTS,  BEETS,  etc.,  if  stored  in 
bins  or  barrels,  should  be  picked  over  every  week.  The  defective 
should  be  thrown  away,  and  if  there  be  any  sign  of  sweating,  the 
good  should  be  spread  out  on  the  floor  for  a  day  or  two  to  dry 
before  they  are  repacked.  Fruit  should  be  handled  with  care. 
Bruises  are  incipient  decay. 

Particularly  FINE  FRUIT — apples  and  pears — should  be 
wrapped,  each  separately,  in  soft,  imprinted  paper  and,  when 
packed,  covered  with  fine,  dry  sand.  Thus  protected,  they  will 
keep  plump  and  sweet  for  months,  and  need  no  overhauling 
meanwhile.  • 

When  practicable,  keep  VEGETABLES  in  large  quantities  else- 
where than  in  the  cellar  under  your  dwelling.  Putrefying  roots, 
cabbages  and  apples  were  responsible  for  much  of  the  winter  and 
spring  diseases  that  puzzled  our  forefathers  and  mothers.  Even 
now  many  a  farmhouse  reeks  with  "cellar  smells,"  as  subtile  and 
dangerous  as  sewer  gas. 

Keep  EGGS  in  a  cool  place,  yet  not  where  they  will  be  liable  to 
freeze.  If  you  store  them  in  large  quantities,  pack  in  dry  salt, 
the  small  end  down.  As  an  additional  precaution,  grease  the 
shells,  and  pour  melted  lard  upon  the  topmost  layer  of  salt. 

DRIED  BEANS  AND  PEAS  should  be  kept  in  wooden  or  tin  boxes 
with  close  tops. 

Have  canisters  with  tight  lids  for  COFFEE  AND  TEA,  and  keep 
them  shut.  Coffee  loses  strength  and  flavor  when  exposed  to  the 
air.  Tea  softens  and  molds. 

In  buying  CRACKERS  give  the  preference  to  those  packed  in  tin 
cases.  If  they  come  in  paper  boxes,  set  these  in  tin  receptacles, 
or  in  stone  crocks  with  snugly  fitting  tops.  Never  throw  away  a 
tin  cracker-box.  It  is  always  useful. 

6 


CARE  OF  HOUSEHOLD  STORES  7 

After  CHEESE  is  cut,  wrap  in  tin-foil,  or  in  soft  (unprinted) 
paper  and  keep  in  tin,  or  in  stoneware. 

CRUSTS,  BITS  OF  TOAST,  BROKEN  CRACKERS  AND  STALE  SLICES 
of  bread  should  be  kept  in  the  kitchen  closet  until  perfectly  dry ; 
then  set  in  a  moderate  oven  for  an  hour  before  crushing  them 
with  a  rolling-pin.  Keep  these  crumbs  in  a  glass  jar  with  a  close 
top.  They  are  invaluable  for  breading  chops  and  croquettes, 
and  for  scallops. 

Brown  FLOUR  by  the  quantity,  and  when  cool  put  into  glass 
jars  ready  for  use. 

SALT  cakes  and  hardens  in  damp  weather.  Store  it  in  your 
warmest  and  driest  pantry.  In  very  wet  weather  mix  a  little 
corn  starch  with  that  you  put  into  the  table  salt-cellars.- 

FLOUR  can  not  be  kept  too  dry,  nor  can  INDIAN  OATMEAL,  and 
all  kinds  of  SUGAR.  PULVERIZED  SUGAR  is  as  susceptible  to  humid- 
ity as  salt.  Tin  boxes  are  absolutely  necessary  for  keeping  it 
tolerably  free  from  lumps. 

SPICES,  PEPPER  AND  DRIED  HERBS  must  also  be  shut  up  closely, 
and  never  be  kept  in  open  receptacles.  Some  brands  of  BAKING- 
POWDERS  actually  effervesce  when  exposed  for  days  at  a  time  to 
the  open  air.  All  are  injured  seriously  by  such  exposure. 

For  all  these  staples  and  ingredients,  have  closely-fitting  lids — 
and  keep  them  on! 

Store  DRIED  FRUITS  in  stone  jars  with  covers ;  CANNED  FRUITS 
AND  PICKLES  in  glass  jars;  tumblers  of  JELLY  AND  MARMALADE 
should  be  kept  in  the  dark.  The  light  acts  chemically  upon  the 
contents.  If  your  storeroom  be  light,  wrap  jars  and  tumblers 
in  thick  paper  tied  on  with  strings. 

As  soon  as  MEAT  comes  home  from  market  remove  every  bit 
of  the  brown  paper  enveloping  it,  and  lay  upon  a  clean  dish  near 
the  ice — never  upon  it.  FISH  does  not  suffer  from  contact  with 
ice.  Meat  does,  becoming  flabby  and  viscid.  If  your  refrigera- 
tor is  so  arranged  that  you  can  hang  the  meat  up,  that  the  air 
can  get  at  all  sides  of  it,  it  will  keep  far  better  than  when  laid 
on  a  platter. 

A  good  meat  preserver  is  a  box,  as  large  as  you  can  make  room 
for  in  the  refrigerator,  the  top  and  bottom  of  which  are  of  wood, 


8  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

the  sides  of  wire  netting.  Stout  hooks  are  screwed  into  the  in- 
side of  the  top,  and  one  of  the  netted  sides  is  hinged,  like  a  door. 
MEAT  hung  in  this  box  will  remain  untainted  and  sweet  much 
longer  than  when  hung  upon  the  side  of  the  refrigerator.  If 
you  have  a  cool  cellar,  keep  the  meat  box,  thus  prepared,  upon  a 
shelf  in  the  darkest  corner.  The  netting  excludes  insects,  yet 
allows  the  air  to  enter,  and  by  drying  the  surface  forms  an  im- 
pervious coating  which  will  keep  in  the  juices. 

Get  large  tin  boxes  for  BREAD  AND  CAKE.  Scald  them  fre- 
quently, drying  thoroughly  in  the  sun,  and  have  clean,  dry 
cloths  in  which  to  wrap  each  fresh  batch  of  cake  and  baking  of 
bread  and  biscuits. 

It  is  an  excellent  plan  to  make  cotton  bags  in  which  to  put 
LETTUCE,  CELERY,  TOMATOES,  SPINACH  and  other  green  things  you 
wish  to  store  in  the  refrigerator.  The  shelves  and  ice-box  are  kept 
clean,  the  esculents  fresh.  Many  housewives  have  adopted  the 
expedient  within  a  few  years,  and  none  have  abandoned  it  after 
a  trial.  The  bags  are  of  coarse,  light  cotton  cloth,  or  of  cheese- 
cloth, and  go  into  the  weekly  wash. 

TABLE  BUTTER,  wrapped  in  dampened  cheesecloth  squares, 
keeps  sweet  and  firm.  These  squares  are  as  large  as  a  child's 
pocket  handkerchief,  and  hemmed  to  prevent  raveling.  Half  a 
dozen  will  last  a  year,  unless  the  "hired  gurrel"  takes  them  for 
dish-cloths. 

BUTTER,  made  into  balls  for  the  table,  should  be  kept  in  a  bowl 
of  cold  water  in  the  refrigerator,  and  the  water  changed  every 
morning. 


KITCHEN  UTENSILS 

IT  is  not  my  purpose  to  discourage  the  housewife  by  a  list  of 
culinary  furniture. 

The  readers  of  "Uncle  Tom's  Cabin"  may  recall  that  Mr.  St. 
Clair  declared  the  evolution  of  irreproachable  course  dinners 
through  such  means  as  his  negro  cook  employed  in  a  smoky  little 
kitchen  with  scanty  store  of  pots  and  kettles — to  be  "nothing 
short  of  genius."  I  have,  before  now,  visited  kitchens  environed 
with  pot-closets,  where  hung  a  glittering  assortment  of  every 
conceivable  patented  "indispensable" — and  sat  down  in  the  din- 
ing-room to  greasy,  watery  soups,  scorched  meats,  soggy  bread 
and  curdled  custards. 

It  is  well  to  have  a  plentiful  supply  of  tools.  If  there  be  not 
sense  and  skill  behind  them,  failure  is  a  foregone  conclusion. 

The  object  of  this  brief  chapter  is  to  tell  our  housemothers 
how  to  keep  such  pots  and  kettles,  griddles  and  pans  in  working 
order,  and  how  to  make  them  last  a  reasonable  time. 

To  begin  with — get  good  ware.  The  clumsy  iron  vessels  that 
gathered  grime  and  soot  over  the  fires  kept  up  by  our  grand- 
dames  have  been  pushed  aside  by  lighter  and  cleaner  utensils  of 
various  sorts.  Coppers — that  must  be  as  bright  outside  as  they 
were  within,  and  gathered  unto  themselves  murderous  verdigris, 
if  not  cleaned  before  each  using,  with  salt  and  scalding  vinegar — 
were  banished,  and  righteously,  long  ago,  in  favor  of  galvanized, 
porcelain,  granite,  agate-iron  and  nickel-steel-plated  wares  that 
neither  rust  nor  green-mold.  These  wares  are  as  easily  kept 
clean  as  stone  china,  and  if  less  durable  than  iron  and  copper 
that  descended  from  mother  to  daughter  and  even  down  to  the 
third  generation,  last  reasonably  well  when  properly  handled. 

Pots,  kettles  and  the  like  should  be  set  upon  the  range— not 


io  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

thumped  and  banged.  A  nicked  cooking  utensil  is  a  disgrace  to 
the  handler  thereof. 

Cracks  and  scaling-off  are  still  oftener  the  result  of  sudden 
overheating  and  of  allowing  an  empty  vessel  to  stand  over  the 
fire.  The  teakettle  boils  dry,  the  soup  seethes  and  simmers  un- 
til bones  and  meat  stick  to  the  bottom  of  the  pot.  To  complete 
the  wreck,  the  ignorant  or  indifferent  cook  snatches  off  the  mis- 
used utensil  and  runs  with  it  to  the  sink,  turning  the  cold-water 
faucet  upon  the  heated  metal.  Yet  the  mistress  marvels  at  the 
semi-yearly  necessity  of  replenishing  kitchen  tools ! 

Never  put  away  a  vessel  which  is  not  both  clean  and  dry. 
Wash  with  hot  water,  good  soap,  and  household  ammonia.  Use 
mop  and  soap-shaker,  if  you  would  spare  your  hands  and  do  jus- 
tice to  bottoms,  seams  and  sides  of  pot  and  pan.  Rinse  off  the 
suds,  wipe  and  set,  upside  down,  upon  the  range  for  thirty  sec- 
onds to  make  assurance  doubly  sure. 

Hang  up  everything  that  furnishes  the  semblance  of  a  loop 
by  which  it  may  be  suspended.  And  always  in  its  own  place,  so 
that  you  could  find  each  in  the  dark. 

Cover  the  shelves  of  the  crockery  closet  with  strips  of  scal- 
loped oilcloth  that  come  for  the  purpose,  and  the  shelves  on 
which  you  keep  metal  pie-plates  and  pans  with  stout  paper, 
pinked  at  the  edges. 

If  you  use  tin  milk-pans,  have  them  seamless,  scald  daily  with 
boiling  water  into  which  you  have  stirred  a  little  baking  soda, 
rinse  with  pure  water  and  stand  in  the  sun. 

Wooden  ware  should  be  scrubbed  with  a  clean,  stiff  brush 
and  soda-and-water,  rinsed  well,  wiped  and  dried  near  the  fire 
or  in  the  open  window. 

Buy  three  qualities  of  dish-towels — the  finest  for  glass,  silver 
and  china ;  the  second  best  for  crockery  used  in  kitchen  work ; 
the  third  for  heavy  kettles,  griddles,  etc.,  and  have  them  washed 
every  day.  Even  when  no  grease  adheres  to  them  they  have  a 
musty  odor  if  used  several  times  without  washing. 

Rub  gridirons  and  griddles  with  dry  salt  before  each  using, 
wiping  it  off  with  a  clean  towel. 


KITCHEN    UTENSILS  n 

Never  undertake  to  polish  your  stove  until  it  is  quite  cold, 
and  do  not  rekindle  the  fire  too  soon  when  the  polishing-  is  done. 

Next  to  the  range,  or  stove,  the  sink  is  the  most  important  fea- 
ture of  the  kitchen. 

"Let  me  see  a  woman's  sink,  and  I  will  tell  you  what  sort  of 
a  manager  she  is !"  was  the  saying  of  a  shrewd  housemother  who 
had  seen  much  of  life  and  of  cooks. 

The  waste-pipe  should  be  flushed  every  day  when  the  water 
in  the  boiler  is  hottest.  During  the  flushing  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  strong  ammonia  should  be  poured  down  the  grating  over  the 
waste.  Once  a  week  in  summer  add  a  handful  of  crushed  wash- 
ing-soda. And  keep  the  sink,  itself,  clean  all  the  time! 

Grease  should  never  accumulate  upon  the  sides  and  in  the 
corners ;  tea  leaves  and  other  debris  never  be  clotted  over  the  vent. 

A  stout  whisk-brush  must  hang  above  the  sink  and  be  used 
freely  in  scrubbing  it.  When  the  whisk  becomes  stained  and 
flabby,  burn  it  up  and  get  another.  A  dirty  brush,  mop  or  dish- 
cloth makes — not  removes — dirt. 

Follow  these  directions,  and  if  the  outer  drain-pipes  are  prop- 
erly built,  you  will  have  no  occasion  to  employ  disinfectants  and 
deodorizers. 


CHEMISTRY  IN  THE  KITCHEN 

HERE  again  I  shall  be  brief  and  practical.  Nobody  would  read 
this  page  were  I  to  prate  learnedly  (apparently)  of  proteids, 
phosphates,  dextrine,  hyposulphites  and  computed  chemical  and 
dietetic  values.  The  purpose  of  the  honest  cook-book  is  to  help, 
not  hinder. 

A  few  facts  relative  to  chemical  effects  and  changes  in  every- 
day cookery  should  be  tabulated. 

For  example,  the  mission  of  the  much-used  and  oft-abused 
bicarbonate  of  soda — familiarly  called  "baking-soda'' — is  im- 
perfectly apprehended  by  those  who  handle  it  most  frequently. 
The  average  cook  does  this  handling  heavily.  "Soda  makes 
bread  and  biscuits  rise,"  is  the  sum  of  her  knowledge  and  the  aim 
of  her  practice  in  this  direction. 

Soda  should  be  measured  as  accurately  as  if  it  were  a  potent 
drug,  and  never  used  except  in  combination  with  an  acid.  Even 
then,  lean  to  the  side  of  mercy  in  measuring.  One  even  tea- 
spoonful  of  soda  to  two  rounded  teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar, 
one  even  teaspoonful  of  soda  to  two  cupfuls  of  buttermilk,  or 
"bonny  clabber,"  one  even  teaspoonful  of  soda  to  one  cupful 
(one-half  pint)  of  molasses,  cause  what  may  be  considered  an 
equitable  effervescence,  liberating  gases  that  lighten  dough  and 
batter  without  making  them  unwholesome.  The  "greeny-yel- 
lowy" streaks  in  farmhouse  quick  biscuits  are  poisonous,  but  the 
alkali  is  not  in  fault.  Soda  should  never  be  driven  in  single 
harness. 

The  first  stage  of  incipient  decomposition  is  acidity.  If,  when 
a  slightly-suspected  fowl  or  cut  of  meat  is  to  be  boiled  or  stewed, 
a  teaspoonful  of  soda  be  thrown  into  the  pot  as  soon  as  the  boil 
begins,  violent  effervescence  will  attest  the  presence  of  the  dis- 

12 


CHEMISTRY    IX    THE    KITCHEN  13 

turbing  acid.  This  subsiding  will  leave  the  meat  free  from  un- 
pleasant taint. 

Beefsteak  and  chops,  which  are  just  a  trifle  "touched,"  may  be 
restored  to  sanity  by  a  bath  of  soda  and  water,  well  rubbed  in. 
Butter  that  has  suffered  in  quality  through  the  neglect  of  the 
maker  in  not  working  all  the  milk  out  may  be  made  tolerable  for 
kitchen  use  by  working  it  over  in  iced  water  in  which  a  little  soda 
has  been  dissolved.  After  which  the  butter  should  be  wrapped  in 
a  salted  cloth  with  a  lump  of  charcoal  in  the  outer  fold. 

Ammonia  is  another  beneficent  agent  in  correcting  natural  or 
artificial  deficiencies.  A  bottle  of  household  ammonia  should 
be  as  invariably  an  adjunct  to  the  kitchen  sink  and  that  of  the 
waitress's  pantry  as  the  soap-dish.  It  "kills"  grease  by  a  chemi- 
cal combination  with  it,  and  lends  luster  to  silver  by  the  same. 

Dry  soda,  laid  upon  a  burn  or  scald,  heals,  but  not  merely  by 
excluding  the  air.  Flour  would  do  that  as  well.  The  alkali  acts 
directly  upon  the  decomposing  skin  and  vitiated  juices  of  the 
flesh.  The  sting  of  a  bee,  wasp  or  hornet  is  formic  acid ;  that 
of  a  mosquito  something  akin  to  it.  Ammonia,  applied  instant- 
ly, neutralizes  the  venom  and  eases  the  smart. 

In  the  composition  of  salad  dressing,  stirring  the  oil,  vinegar, 
salt,  pepper  and  dash  of  mustard  together,  long  and  skilfully, 
makes  a  chemical  emulsion  smoother  and  more  palatable  than  the 
hasty  slap-dash  mixture  too  often  served  as  "French  dressing." 

Bread-dough  which  has  begun  to  sour  can  be  brought  to  terms 
by  working  into  the  batch  a  little  saleratus  dissolved  in  boiling 
water,  which  is  then  allowed  to  become  lukewarm  before  it  is 
kneaded  faithfully  through  the  dough.  A  like  solution  should  be 
beaten  hard  into  griddle-cake  batter  that  has  a  pungent  smell. 

Vinegar  and  lemon  juice  are  invaluable  aids  in  the  business  of 
"tendering"  tough  meats.  Beefsteak,  covered  for  some  hours 
with  vinegar  or  lemon  juice,  and  olive  oil,  is  made  eatable  by  the 
action  of  the  acid  upon  the  fibers  which  are  further  "suppled" 
by  the  oil. 

Vinegar  put  into  the  water  in  which  a  fowl  or  mutton  is  boiled 
will  serve  the  same  purpose,  and  a  dash  of  vinegar  in  boiling  fish 
removes  the  strong  oily  taste  that  would  otherwise  cling  to  it. 


14      MARION  HARLAND'S  COOK  BOOK 

Powdered  alum  stirred  into  turbid  water — an  even  tablespoon- 
ful  to  four  gallons — will  cause  a  precipitate  and  a  settlement. 
The  clear  water  may  be  drawn  off  cautiously  and  used  for  wash- 
ing and  even  for  drinking,  having  no  perceptible  taste  of  the 
alum. 

A  bag  of  powdered  charcoal  sunk  in  a  pork  barrel  will  keep 
the  brine  sweet  through  the  winter,  without  blackening  it  or  the 
meat. 


CARVING 

THE  present  mode  of  serving  meats  after  the  manner  of  the 
table  d'hote — the  carving  done  in  the  kitchen,  and  the  results 
placed  upon  the  platter  to  be  served  to  the  guests  by  butler  or 
waiter — has  in  large  measure  done  away  with  the  demand  for 
hints  to  the  master  or  mistress  of  the  home  upon  the  art  of  carv- 
ing. To  those  who  adhere  to  the  earlier  custom,  directions  can 
be  merely  outlines;  for  the  single  means  by  which  one  may  be- 
come an  adept  as  a  carver  is  in  the  repeated  practice  which  is  re- 
quired for  skill  in  any  work  of  manipulation. 

A  prerequisite  to  carving  is  appropriate  implements.  The 
knife,  the  edge  of  which  has  been  dulled  upon  the  bread-board, 
or  hacked  in  the  offices  of  the  kitchen,  where  it  has  been  em- 
ployed as  the  scullion's  tool,  may  puncture  and  tear,  but  it  w;ll 
not  carve.  In  the  hand  of  even  the  most  skilful  it  is  exaspera- 
tion. 

The  mistress  of  the  home  owes  it  to  the  head  of  the  table,  as 
well  as  to  the  ease  of  mind  of  her  guests,  .to  see  that  the  carving 
set — the  knife  and  its  companion  fork — shall  be  in  the  best  con- 
dition for  their  work. 

To  carve  a  roast  of  beef 

This  will  depend  upon  the  form  in  which  the  roast  is  placed 
upon  the  platter.  If  it  include  several  ribs,  furnishing  suffi- 
cient room  for  a  base  of  bone,  it  may  be  so  put  before  the  carver 
that  he  may  cut  perpendicularly  in  thin  slices,  passing  the  knife 
in  a  line  parallel  with  the  ribs.  If,  however,  the  roast  be  laid 
upon  the  side,  as  is  usual,  the  same  direction  is  to  be  observed 
as  to  the  cutting  in  lines  parallel  to  the  ribs. 

15 


16  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Where  a  tenderloin  roast  is  to  be  carved — having  but  the  one 
large  bone  which  divides  the  tenderloin  from  the  more  solid  por- 
tion— there  is  little  choice  whether  the  knife  is  drawn  with  or 
transversely  to  the  grain :  the  tenderness  of  the  meat  is  assured 
in  either  case.  It  may  be  more  convenient  to  sever  entirely  the 
tenderloin  from  the  firmer  part  of  the  roast  before  beginning  to 
slice.  This  will  leave  the  carver  at  liberty  to  serve  a  portion  of 
each  quality  of  the  meat  to  every  guest,  as  the  tenderloin  may 
not  be  of  sufficient  size  to  serve  to  all. 

To  carve  a  leg  of  lamb  or  mutton 

If  the  small  ribs — which  are  generally  taken  off  for  chops — 
are  left  with  the  leg,  the  carver  is  free  to  ask  the  preference  of 
each  guest  for  the  rib  or  solid  slice.  The  chops  may  be  detached 
by  drawing  the  point  of  the  knife  between  the  ribs,  and — if  the 
butcher  has  properly  done  his  part — in  severing  the  light  carti- 
lage at  the  backbone,  as  in  parting  vertebrae.  The  fleshy  por- 
tion of  the  leg  will  be  more  tender  if  cut  in  slices  at  a  right  angle 
with  the  bone,  as  one  would  carve  a  ham ;  that  is,  across  the  grain. 
Some  carvers,  however,  prefer  to  cut  lamb  or  mutton  with  the 
grain,  as  it  enables  them  to  serve  a  portion  more  or  less  thor- 
oughly cooked,  according  to  the  preference  of  those  to  be  helped. 
These  directions  apply  equally  to  carving  a  haunch  of  venison. 

To  carve  poultry 

The  fowl — whether  turkey,  chicken  or  duck — should  be  placed 
on  its  back  upon  the  platter.  This  will  permit  the  carver  to 
transfix  the  breastbone  firmly  with  the  fork ;  for,  upon  the 
stanchness  of  the  hold  here  will  depend  the  success  of  all  further 
operations.  The  wing  from  the  nearer  side  should  first  be  dis- 
severed by  a  gash  of  the  knife  underneath  the  socket.  This,  if 
the  fowl  be  tender,  is  easily  accomplished  with  a  single  cut.  The 
first  and  second  joints  of  the  leg  may  next  be  separated,  and  the 
second  or  upper  joint  removed  from  its  junction  with  the  body, 
as  was  the  wing.  This  is  easily  effected  by  a  slight  cut  and  pres- 


CARVING  17 

sure  of  the  bone  outward.  The  sidebone  may  be  taken  off  by 
running  the  blade  directly  along  the  backbone ;  for  it  adheres  only 
by  a  filament  of  skin  and  the  soft  fat  that  attaches  to  it  on  this 
line. 

These  joints  having  been  taken  off,  the  breast  is  now  entirely 
exposed,  and  further  carving  is  a  very  simple  matter.  The  re- 
moval of  the  leg  has  laid  bare  the  cavity,  from  which  the  dress- 
ing may  be  lifted  with  a  spoon,  and  the  cutting  of  a  few  slices 
from  the  breast,  near  the  neck,  will  open  the  crop  with  the  stuf- 
fing usually  placed  there  to  plump  the  fowl.  The  main  joint  and 
the  pinion  of  the  wing  may  be  severed  by  cutting  the  cartilage  at 
the  junction  of  the  two  bones. 

To  carve  fish 

There  is  an  art  in  carving  fish,  and  it  is  confined  to  a  single  di- 
rection. It  is  to  open  with  a  knife  at  the  back,  drawing  the 
blade  the  whole  distance  from  head  to  tail  just  above  the  back- 
bone, and  pressing  the  meat  loose  from  its  fastening.  Portions 
may  then  be  served  by  cutting  transversely  with  the  backbone. 
Fish  so  carved  is  freed  from  the  intricate  mass  of  small  bones 
which  are  sure  to  mingle  with  the  flesh  if  it  be  cut  in  any  other 
way.  The  head,  if  not  already  removed,  should  first  be  taken  off, 
and  the  collar  or  shoulder-bone  lifted  from  the  fish. 


SERVING  AND  WAITING 

IF  a  butler  be  engaged  to  do  the  family  serving  and  waiting, 
he  understands  his  business,  or  he  should  not  apply  for  the  place. 
The  rules  written  out  here  are  for  the  benefit  of  households 
where  but  one  or,  at  the  most,  two  maids  are  kept.  I  assume 
that  the  waitress  takes  charge  of  the  table  after  the  mistress  has 
once  shown  her  how  it  is  to  be  set. 

By  the  way,  I  hope  you  call  her  a  "maid,"  not  a  "girl."  The 
latter  word  has  been  so  rubbed  and  soiled  by  persistent  usage  on 
the  part  of  domesticated  foreigners,  who  shed  the  name  of  "serv- 
ant" as  soon  as  they  stamp  upon  American  soil,  and  by  the  han- 
dling of  would-be  "genteel"  housewives,  that  people  of  refine- 
ment hesitate  to  touch  it.  What  the  old-fashioned  New  England- 
ers  called  "hired  help"  would  shake  the  dust  off  the  soles  of  the 
shoes  they  are  not  yet  quite  used  to  wearing,  were  you  to  allude 
to  them  as  "servants."  "Maid"  sounds  well,  bearing  to  their 
tickled  ears  a  certain  dignity  not  unsuited  to  their  new  estate. 

Beginning  with  the  first  meal  of  the  day,  we  will  suppose  a 
cereal,  fruit,  one  dish  of  meat,  bread  and  butter,  potatoes,  hot 
muffins,  tea  and  coffee — a  typical  American  breakfast,  in  fact. 

A  fruit-plate,  holding  a  doily,  on  which  is  a  finger-bowl  half- 
filled  with  water,  cold  in  summer,  tepid  in  winter,  is  set  for  each 
person.  If  fruit  that  requires  paring  or  cutting  is  to  be  eaten, 
lay  a  fruit-knife  on  the  plate.  If  oranges  are  served,  add  an 
orange-spoon.  At  the  right  of  the  plate  are  the  water  tumbler, 
a  knife,  with  the  sharp  edge  toward  the  plate,  and  a  cereal- 
spoon,  bowl  upward.  At  the  left  should  be  the  bread-and-butter 
plate,  the  fork,  tines  upward,  and  a  folded  napkin. 

In  front  of  each  plate  are  a  pepper-cruet  and  a  salt-cellar. 

In  the  center  of  the  board  have  a  bowl  of  flowers,  or  something 

18 


SERVING   AND   WAITING  19 

green  and  growing,  all  the  year  round.  At  the  foot,  carving- 
knife  and  fork,  a  steel  or  other  "sharp- 
ener," and  a  tablespoon ;  unless  you  have 
a  polished  table,  cover  it  with  a  neat  break- 
fast-cloth, using  napkins  ("serviettes")  to 
match.  If  your  table-top  be  at  all  pre- 
sentable, lay  a  hemstitched  or  embroidered 
square  of  linen — sold  as  a  "breakfast  or 
luncheon  square" — in  the  center,  and  un- 
der each  plate  a  doily  of  the  same  style. 
A  thick  mat  to  protect  the  varnish  against 
the  heated  meat  dish;  a  carafe,  or  glass  pitcher,  of  ice-water  on 
each  side  of  the  table,  and  the  tea  and  coffee  equipage  at  the  head, 
complete  the  preparations  for  serving. 

The  basket,  or  dish  of  fruit,  is  handed  from  the  sideboard 
where  are  arranged  tablespoons,  the  glass  or  silver  tub  of  broken 
ice  to  replenish  glasses,  and,  if  there  are  no  carafes  on  the  table, 
a  pitcher  of  iced  water,  with  a  relay  of  knives  and  forks  in  case 
an  extra  supply  should  be  required  on  account  of  accidents. 

At  the  last  minute,  before  the  mistress  is  told  at  the  sitting- 
room  door  that  "breakfast  is  on,"  the  glasses  are  filled  with  iced 
water,  a  firm  ball  of  butter  and  a  freshly-cut  slice  of  bread  are 
laid  upon  the  small  plate  at  the  left  of  each  place. 

When  the  family  and  guests  are  seated,  the  waitress,  dressed 
in  a  neat  gingham  or  print  gown,  a  clean  apron,  with  bretelles, 
bib  and  full  skirt,  and  a  white  cap  pinned  above  orderly  hair 
(not  used  to  cloak  unkempt  elf-locks),  passes  the  fruit  basket  or 
dish  to  the  mistress  of  the  house  from  the  left  side ;  then  to  each 
person  at  table. 

The  fruit  eaten,  let  the  waitress,  beginning  as  before,  at  the 
head  of  the  table,  take  from  the  right  side  of  each  person,  plate, 
knife  and  spoon  in  one  hand,  finger-bowl  in  the  other,  and  re- 
move to  a  side  table,  or  to  the  "waitress's  pantry,"  where  they 
are  to  be  washed.  Never  pile  plates  and  saucers  upon  one  an- 
other, or  upon  a  tray.  The  habit  is  slovenly  and  lazy.  Still 
more  displeasing  is  the  scraping  of  plates  at  the  side  table,  or 
within  hearing  of  the  eaters. 


20  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

If  the  cereal  be  cooked,  it  is  usually  served  by  the  mistress  of 
the  house.  In  this  case  set  the  hot  dish  upon  a  mat  beside  or 
before  her,  when  you  have  put  a  cereal  saucer  with  a  plate  under 
it  before  each  person.  Have  a  tray,  with  a  napkin  or  doily 
within  it,  ready  to  receive  each  saucer  as  it  is  filled ;  offer  to  the 
eaters  from  the  left,  and  when  all  are  served  pass  sugar  and 
cream  on  the  tray. 

When  the  cereal  has  been  discussed,  remove  first  the  dish, 
then  the  saucers,  and  bring  in  hot  plates,  quickly  and  dexterously 
setting  one  before  each  person.  They  should  have  been  warmed 
through  slowly  in  the  kitchen,  but  not  be  so  hot  as  to  draw  the 
varnish  through  the  doilies.  Next  set  the  dish  of  hot  meat, 
chicken  or  fish,  in  front  of  the  carver.  As  each  portion  is  laid 
upon  a  plate,  the  plate  is  set  upon  the  tray  you  hold.  Taking 
the  plate  in  your  hand  when  you  reach  the  mistress  of  the  house, 
set  it  down  before  her  from  the  right. 

There  need  be  no  confusion  in  this  much-debated  question  of 
"left  and  right"  if  the  waitress  will  bear  in  mind  one  simple  rule : 
When  plate,  cup  or  other  article  is  to  be  taken  from  the  tray 
by  the  eater,  or  he  is  to  help  himself  from  an  offered  dish,  the 
waitress  must  stand  on  his  left,  that  he  may  use  his  right  hand 
freely.  What  the  waitress  puts  upon  the  table  with  her  own 
hand  must  be  done  from  the  right. 

For  example,  the  plate  with  meat  on  it  is  set  down  from  the 
right  of  the  person  who  is  thus  served.  He  takes  his  cup  of 
coffee  and  helps  himself  to  sugar  and  cream  from  the  left. 

Before  the  waitress  leaves  the  breakfast-room  for  the 
pantry,  if  she  does  not  remain  throughout  the  meal,  let  her 
replenish  glasses  with  water  and  ice,  pass  bread  or  muf- 
fins a  second  time,  and  if  cups  are  emptied,  offer  her 
tray  to  take  them  back  to  the  head  of  the  table  to  be 
refilled.  Should  she  begin  to  wash  plates  and  saucers 
in  the  adjoining  pantry  to  save  time,  let  this  be  done  very 
quietly.  The  rattle  of  china  is  not  a  musical  accompani- 
ment to  table-talk. 

The  manner  of  setting  the  table  and  waiting  at  luncheon  is 


SERVING   AND    WAITING  21 

substantially  the  same  as  at  breakfast.     Dinner  demands  certain 
variations,  while  the  general  principles  are  the  same. 

The  waitress  of  to-day  has  a  dinner  uniform,  decorous  in  all, 
becoming  to  a  large  majority  of  women.  She  wears  a  black 
gown,  deep  white  cuffs  and  collar,  and  an  apron  of  finer  material 
and  somewhat  more  ornate  in  fashion  than  in  the  forenoon. 

Under  the  damask  table-cloth  is  laid  a  covering  of  felt  made 
for  this  purpose — sold  as  "table-felt,"  or  a  "silence-cloth."  The 
linen  cover  lies  more  smoothly  over  this  and  appears  to  be  of 
better  texture  than  when  spread  upon  bare  boards.  Besides  the 
damask  table-cloth,  a  "carving  square"  is  laid  at  the  foot  of  the 
table,  and  under  it  a  thick  mat  on  which  the  hot  dish  may  stand. 
On  this  are  carving-knife,  fork  and  "steel ;"  also  tablespoon  and 
gravy  ladle,  leaving  room  between  for  the  large  dish.  A  cold 
plate  stands  at  each  place,  to  be  taken  up  when  the  hot  is  set 
down  by  the  waitress.  At  the  right  of  the  plate  lie  the  soup- 
spoon, bowl  uppermost,  two  knives,  edges  turned  toward  the 
plate,  and  a  fish-knife  (if  there  is  to  be  fish)  beyond  the  dinner- 
knives.  A  tumbler  for  water,  and,  if  wine  is  used,  glasses  for 
this,  stand  also  on  the  right,  a  little  beyond  the  array  of  knives. 

Some  prefer  to  lay  the  soup-spoon  at  right  angles  to  the 
knives,  and  back  of  where  the  plate  is  to  be. 

At  the  left  of  the  plate  have  two  large  forks ;  then  one  for  fish, 
and  outside  of  this  an  oyster-fork,  if  there  are  to  be  raw  oysters. 
The  napkin,  folded  flat,  and  inclosing  a  slice  of  bread,  cut  thicker 
and  narrower  than  for  breakfast,  lies  also  on  the  left. 

Plates  for  the  several  courses  are  in  array  on  the  sideboard, 
except  such  as  must  be  brought  hot  from  the  kitchen.  Salad 
plates  and  those  for  dessert  stand  in  order.  Saucers  for  ices  are 
set  upon  plates  lined  with  doilies.  Fruit  plates  are  also  sup- 
plied with  doilies,  on  which  are  finger-bowls  half-full  of  water. 

A  side  table  is  reserved  for  vegetable  dishes.  They  are  not 
placed  upon  the  principal  table  now,  even  at  the  daily  family  din- 
ner. Pickles  and  olives  are  on  the  dinner-table ;  carafes  of  water, 
and  always  flowers. 

Some  housewives  have  soup  served  in  hot  plates  directly  from 
the  kitchen.  If  the  tureen  be  used  instead,  the  mistress  prefer- 


22  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

ring  to  pour  it  out  herself,  have  a  carving-cloth  at  that  end  of  the 
table  also.  The  soup  ladle  lies  at  her  right.  As  she  ladles  out 
the  soup  it  is  set  on  the  waitress's  tray.  She  takes  it  off  with 
her  hand  and  puts  it  from  the  right  before  any  guest  who  may 
be  present ;  then  the  family  in  turn.  At  a  dinner  party;  those  on 
the  right  of  the  hostess  are  served  first.  The  soup-plate  is  set 
upon  the  cold  plate  in  front  of  the  eater,  and  when  removed  is 
taken  from  the  right,  leaving  the  lower  stationary  cold  plate  in 
its  place,  until  the  fish  comes,  when  it  is  exchanged  for  a  hot  one. 

In  clearing  the  table  after  each  course  the  soup-tureen,  and  in 
its  turn  the  large  dish  at  the  foot  of  the  table  go  out  first,  the 
soiled  plates  afterward. 

Before  the  dessert  is  brought  in,  crumb  the  table,  using  a 
clean  folded  napkin,  when  you  have  cleared  the  cloth  of  salt, 
pepper,  pickles,  etc. 

After  the  sweets  comes  the  coffee.  This  is  often  sent  to  the 
guests  into  the  drawing-room.  In  this  case,  the  waitress  covers 
a  large  tray  with  a  white  napkin,  arranges  the  filled  cups,  smok- 
ing hot,  upon  it,  sets  the  sugar  in  the  middle  and  takes  the  whole 
into  the  room  where  the  party  is  assembled. 

Liqueur-glasses  follow  the  coffee,  and  are  also  carried  into 
drawing-room  or  library.  In  announcing  to  the  mistress,  in 
sitting-room  or  elsewhere,  that  a  meal  is  ready,  the  waitress  says, 
"Breakfast  is  on,"  or  "Luncheon  is  ready,"  or  "Dinner  is 
served" — according  to  modern  usage.  One  frightened  unfor- 
tunate, on  duty  at  a  trial-dinner  party,  filled  the  hostess  with 
confusion,  the  guests  with  secret  amusement,  by  rattling  off  all 
three  formulas  in  a  breath. 

It  is  impossible  to  write  out  rules  that  will  meet  every  form 
and  exigency  of  "entertaining."  The  hostess  who,  having  mas- 
tered the  leading  principles  here  given,  trains  her  waitress  into 
the  daily  practice  of  them,  insisting  that  her  family  shall  be 
served  three  times  a  day  in  the  right  order,  and  as  punctiliously 
as  if  a  state  banquet  were  the  business  of  the  hour,  need  fear  no 
embarrassing  "situations,"  no  matter  how  large  the  number,  nor 
how  important  the  stations  of  her  guests. 


AMONG  THE  LINENS 

EVERYTHING  commonly  classed  under  this  head  should  be  care- 
fully aired  before  it  is  put  away.  Even  when  this  duty  has  been 
conscientiously  performed,  real  linen,  made  of  pure  flax,  has 
marvelous  properties  for  absorbing  humidity.  And  humidity 
is  the  parent  of  that  relentless  foe  to  housewifely  peace — mildew. 
Table-cloths,  napkins  and  linen  sheets  that  have  been  packed 
securely — as  the  owner  supposed — in  closets,  drawers  and  chests, 
sometimes  present  to  our  horrified  eyes  a  collection  of  small 
blotches,  like  dark  freckles,  and  as  ineradicable,  and  the  folds, 
when  opened,  smell  musty.  The  walls  of  the  closet  were  not 
quite  dry,  or  the  chest  has  stood  in  a  damp  room,  or  the  side- 
board drawers  have  gathered  must  in  an  unaired  basement  din- 
ing-room. 

It  is  a  matter  of  common  prudence  to  overhaul  the  contents  of 
linen  closets,  and  especially  linen  drawers  and  chests,  once  a 
month,  if  only  to  make  sure  that  the  contents  are  keeping  well. 
At  the  same  time  be  on  the  lookout  for  rents,  broken  threads  and 
thin  places. 

Never  buy  cheap  linen.  If  you  can  not  afford  the  finest,  you 
may  secure  that  which  is  "all  linen,"  round-threaded  *and  evenly 
woven.  A  little  practice  in  the  purchase  of  these  treasures  will 
initiate  you  into  the  art  of  judicious  choosing.  Having  bought 
good  "material,"  take  care  of  it.  A  break  in  a  table-cloth  or  nap- 
kin, or  towel,  if  neatly  darned,  will  give  you  several  more  weeks 
of  wear  out  of  it — perhaps  months.  Hemstitched  articles  are 
liable  to  "give"  first  in  the  drawn  work,  and  a  stitch  here  in  time, 
saves  ninety. 

You  may  keep  napery  in  drawers,  if  more  convenient  than  else- 
where, or  upon  shelves  in  a  roomy  sideboard.  When  at  all  prac- 

23 


24  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

ticable  have  a  light,  airy  closet  for  bed  linen.  My  own  linen- 
room,  built  to  order,  has  a  southern  window,  unshuttered, 
through  which  the  sun  streams  all  the  afternoon  on  fine  days. 
Except  in  wet  weather  this  window  stands  open  for  an  hour  of 
every  day — not  longer,  lest  dust  should  blow  in. 

Suffer  another  personal  paragraph : — Not  a  sheet,  towel  or 
pillow-case  is  taken  from  this  closet  except  by  myself.  Each 
pile  has  place  and  meaning.  Each  set  of  towels  belongs  to  an 
especial  apartment.  Heavy  bath  towels;  soft  damask  for  the 
leastest  baby's  use ;  big,  rough  huckaback  for  the  boys'  lake  baths, 
and  the  orderly  heaps  of  different  styles  and  textures,  every  one 
marked  with  embroidered  letter  or  monogram  designating  cham- 
ber or  owner — are  known  familiarly  to  but  one  person  in  the 
family.  , 

I  modestly  commend  this  rule  to  each  housemother.  Let  the 
linen  shelves  be  the  especial  charge  of  some  one  particular  keeper. 
If  not  yourself,  one  of  your  daughters.  This  is  rendered  almost 
necessary  by  the  system  of  rotation  that  should  regulate  the  use 
of  sheets,  pillow-cases,  counterpanes  and  towels.  Those  which 
come  from  the  wash  this  week  should  be  kept  by  themselves. 
In  laying  out  clothes  for  the  beds,  and  towels  for  the  various 
rooms,  select  from  the  bottom  of  the  pile  of  those  laundered  on'e, 
two  or  four  weeks  ago,  working  gradually  upward,  week  by 
week,  until  all  have  gone  through  the  wash  and  consequently,  all 
are  evenlv  worn.  Never  make  up  a  bed  with  freshly  washed 
linen,  no  matter  how  well  aired  it  may  seem  to  be. 

Sheets,  pillow-cases,  towels,  table-cloths — all  folded  linens — 
should  be  laid  upon  the  shelves  with  the  open  and  hemmed  ends 
toward  the  wall,  the  round  folds  outward.  The  effect  is  neater 
to  the  eye,  and  articles  are  more  easily  taken  out. 

There  should  be  no  smell  in  this  airy  closet  except  the  inde- 
scribable sweet  sense  of  freshly  laundered  linen — not  strong 
enough  to  be  called  an  odor.  Lavender,  scented  grasses,  and 
dried  rose  leaves  are  poetical  in  the  writing  and  the  hearing 
thereof,  but  the  sleeper  between  smooth  cotton  or  linen  sheets 
sickens  of  artificial  smells.  They  are  neither  "goodly,"  nor 
wholesome. 


THE  CHILDREN 

OUR  forefathers  and  foremothers  were  dressed,  in  infancy, 
precisely  like  their  fathers  and  mothers.  As  we  see  by  the  por- 
traits treasured  among  our  curios,  they  were  abridged  copies  of 
the  adults  of  a  hundred  years  ago.  Parents  were  then  consistent 
in  feeding  their  progeny  with  food  they  considered  convenient 
for  themselves. 

When  the  royal  father  ate  fermenty  for  breakfast  it  is  upon 
record  that  a  baby  prince,  suffering  from  marasmus,  was  nour- 
ished (  !)  upon  barley,  boiled  soft  with  raisins.  They  sat  up  to 
late  functions — those  wretchedly  dissipated  princelings — and  the 
cotter's  children  went  to  bed  at  the  same  time  with  himself. 

He  who  doubts  whether  or  not  our  times  are  better  than  the 
former  would  be  converted  to  steadfastness  of  conviction  by 
patient  study  of  the  nursery  habits  of  the  late  eighteenth  and  early 
nineteenth  centuries. 

We  have  children's  outfitters  nowadays,  who  fashion  gar- 
ments utterly  unlike  those  worn  by  be-corseted,  be-trained,  and 
be-pantalooned  grown  people.  The  cotter's  wife  clothes  her  boys 
in  knickerbockers  and  blouses,  her  girls  in  loose  waists  and  brief 
skirts,  all  designed  expressly — although  she  does  not  know  it 
—to  allow  free  and  healthful  growth  of  the  immature  creatures. 

I  wish  I  could  add  that  reform  as  radical  and  common-sensible 
had  been  wrought  in  children's  diet,  and  children's  hours  of  rest 
and  sleep. 

Mothers  who  have  thought  deeply  upon  these  matters  and 
acted  upon  meditation,  appreciate  the  hygienic  law  that  children 
require  sleep  to  promote  growth,  as  well  as  to  repair  the  waste  of 
waking— which  are  working— hours.  If  an  adult  needs  seven 
hours'  slumber,  the  infant  of  days— under  seven  years  of  age— 

25 


26  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

requires  ten  to  satisfy  wants  his  senior  has  outgrown.  Up  to 
the  age  when  the  child  ceases  to  add  inches,  if  not  cubits,  to  his 
stature  yearly,  provision  must  be  made  for  the  steady  drain  upon 
vital  and  nerve  forces. 

The  aforesaid  canny  mothers  call  in  the  little  ones  from  play 
before  sundown  in  summer,  bathe  them,  endue  them  in  night- 
gowns and  pajamas,  put  dressing-gowns  over  these,  and  loose 
slippers  upon  the  tired  feet,  then  set  them  down  to  a  supper  of 
bread  and  milk,  or  buttered  bread  with  a  dash  of  jam  or  jelly, 
and  good,  sweet  milk,  with  once  in  a  while  a  plain  cooky  as  an 
afterthought.  Supper  over  and  prayers  said,  the  darlings  are 
laid  in  bed  by  the  time  the  west  begins  to  blush  at  the  sun's 
nearer  approach.  In  winter,  the  six  o'clock  supper  is  served  in 
the  nursery  or  dining-room,  and  the  bairnies  disposed  of  com- 
fortably to  themselves  and  to  the  rest  of  the  household  before 
"grown-uppers"  sit  down  to  the  "hearty"  supper  or  dinner  divid- 
ing the  working  day  from  an  evening  as  busy,  and  sometime 
.almost  as  long. 

To  borrow  from  the  slang  dictionary — the  child  needs  the  ten 
or  twelve  hours'  sleep  in  his  business  of  growing  tall  and  robust, 
steady  of  nerve  and  sane  of  mind.  Furthermore,  he  needs  food 
adapted  to  his  needs.  Plenty  of  cereals ;  plenty  of  milk ;  plenty 
of  ripe  fruit  in  the  season  thereof ;  meat  once  a  day ;  nourishing 
broths  and  a  few  green  vegetables.  No  fried  things  whatsoever ; 
neither  tea  nor  coffee.  No  pastry ;  no  mince  pie  nor  plum  pud- 
ding, nor  highly  seasoned  entrees.  Time  enough  for  these  delica- 
cies when  the  inches  (and  feet)  are  all  in,  the  muscles  in  splendid 
working  order,  the  gray  matter  of  the  brain  "all  there,"  and 
ready  to  do  the  duties  of  a  man's  brain  for  fifty  years  to  come. 

One  branch  of  a  child's  education,  sorely  neglected  in  tens  of 
thousands  of  homes,  is  mastication.  As  soon  as  he  cuts  his  teeth 
teach  him  why  they  were  given  him.  Make  him  chew  everything 
he  takes  into  his  mouth.  Able  dieticians  are  proclaiming  boldly 
that  milk  should  be  chewed,  a  mouthful  at  a  time,  if  one  would 
not  have  it  change  to  curd  about  the  diaphragm.  The  child's 
meat  should  be  finely  minced  for  him  until  he  can  cut  it  up  for 
himself,  and  bolting  be  reckoned  as  a  breach  of  decent  behavior. 


THE    CHILDREN  27 

He  may  forget  the  truism  that  "gentlemen  eat  slowly"  after  he 
joins  in  the  great  American  rush  for  fortune.  Obedience  to  it 
for  a  term  of  years  will  lay  the  foundation  of  sound  digestion. 
He  will  have  a  better  chance  of  long  life  and  no  dyspepsia,  than 
if  he  had  been  allowed  to  gulp  down  milk  by  the  glassful  without 
drawing  breath,  and  to  gobble  steaks  and  chops  in  two-inch 
chunks. 


DIET  AND  DIGESTION 

THE  second  depends  upon  the  first.  The  two  make  up  a  whole 
which  is  Health. 

"Food  values"  is  so  emphatically  a  technical  term  that  I  would 
not  employ  it  here  if  it  did  not  express  just  what  I  mean,  when 
used  untechnically. 

What  we  eat  has  many  and  differing  values.  It  is  possible, 
without  degenerating  into  dietetic  cranks,  to  appraise  them  pro- 
perly and  to  apply  the  knowledge  thus  gained  to  the  building  up 
of  these  bodies  of  ours  and  the  consequent  up-building  of  the 
immortal  better  part  they  encase. 

Digestions  are  so  many  and  so  diverse,  the  one  from  the  other, 
that  it  is  rank  folly  to  prescribe  bills-of-fare  warranted  to  agree 
with  everybody. 

Take,  for  example,  milk.  It  has  won  from  the  ablest  writers 
on  dietetics  the  title  of  the  One  Perfect  Food  for  the  human 
race.  Specialists  on  dyspepsia  prescribe  an  almost  exclusive 
milk  diet  for  obstinate  cases.  In  typhoid  fevers  it  is  the  specific 
regimen.  One  man  consumes  inordinate  quantities,  by  advice, 
to  increase  adipose  tissue.  A  woman  lives  upon  skim  milk,  swal- 
lowed very  slowly,  to  reduce  her  flesh.  And  so  on  through  multi- 
farious cases — all  acting  upon  the  recommendation  of  experts. 

All  the  time,  as  each  of  us  knows,  certain  stomachs  can  not 
digest  milk,  or  even  retain  it  long  enough  to  test  its  nutritive 
properties,  while  in  others  it  causes  intense  heartburn  and  en- 
genders bile. 

Toast  and  tea  are  the  stock  invalid  diet,  the  civilized  world 
over.  Yet  Medical  Daniels  (M.  D.'s)  are  rising  up  by  the  score 
to  protest  against  ruining  stomachs  with  tannic  acid  and  bur- 
dening digestive  organs  by  forcing  what  is  no  better  than  dry 
sawdust  upon  them. 

28 


DIET    AND    DIGESTION  29 

Chocolate  is  freely  prescribed  as  digestible,  and  so  nutritious 
that  one  could  live  and  not  lose  flesh,  eating  nothing  else,  for 
weeks  together. 

I  am  acquainted  personally  with  ten  people  at  least,  to  whom 
any  form  of  chocolate  is  poisonous  and  abhorrent  to  every  sense. 

Natives  of  the  land  where  the  cocoa  palm  grows  virtually  sub- 
sist upon  the  nuts,  and  many  in  other  lands  devour  the  imported 
cocoanut  with  impunity.  The  fatty  flesh  acts  upon  some  stom- 
achs with  the  virulence  of  glass  filings,  producing  terrible  cramps 
and  even  convulsions. 

A  noted  teacher  of  culinary  lore  strenuously  recommends  our 
native  nuts,  walnuts,  filberts,  hazelnuts,  chestnuts,  and  so  forth, 
raw,  and  cooked  in  various  ways  as  a  substitute  for  meat.  The 
innovation  is  daring,  and  opposed  to  the  conclusion  based  upon 
the  observation  and  experience  of  scores  of  other  writers,  to  the 
effect  that  nuts  are  hurtful  to  six  people  out  of  ten,  the  oils,  and 
the  cells  which  contain  the  oils,  difficult  of  digestion  by  any  save 
the  strongest  stomach. 

It  is  much  the  fashion  with  writers  upon  domestic  economy 
to  extol  fish  as  more  economical  and  more  easily  digested  than 
flesh,  besides  being  rich  in  the  phosphates  needed  to  repair  the 
waste  of  brain  force.  * 

Some  people  who  would  scout  the  imputation  of  invalidism 
can  not  eat  even  fresh  fish  without  experiencing  symptoms  not 
unlike  ptomaine  poisoning.  I  recall  the  case  of  one  woman  who 
was  extremely  fond  of  oysters,  yet  dared  not  touch  them  for  fear 
of  fatal  consequences.  I  once  saw  her  faint  away  an  hour  after 
she  had  eaten  half  a  dozen. 

Who  shall  decide  when  dietists  and  individual  digestions 
disagree  so  radically  as  is  indicated  by  these  and  hundreds  of 
other  examples  ?  And  by  what  standard  of  gastronomic  morality 
shall  we  gage  personal  conduct  in  the  government  of  appetite? 
Since  man  must  eat  to  live,  and  an  unimpaired  digestion  is  wealth 
inestimable — what  shall  we  eat? 

Certain  combinations  of  materials  are  manifestly  iniquitous. 
Cooked  fats,  fried  fats  in  particular;  soggy  bread,  especially 
when  fresh  from  the  oven;  hot  cakes,  ("sinkers"),  viscid  with 


30  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

griddle  grease  and  swimming  in  butter ;  tough  doughnuts,  reek- 
ing with  lard ;  leathery  pie-crust ;  underdone  fish  and  rare  pork 
and  veal ;  cabbage  that  has  been  cooked  in  but  one  water ;  turnips 
that  have  been  left  in  t;:e  ground  until  they  are  stringy  pith ; 
tough  meats  of  all  kinds  that  resist  mastication ;  unripe  fruits — 
none  of  these  should  ever  enter  human  mouths,  or  be  imposed 
upon  the  long-suffering  digestive  apparatus. 

The  housemother  who  studies  wisely  the  properties  of  the 
fare  she  puts  before  her  family  will  adjust  food- values  to  the 
several  needs  of  those  to  whom  she  ministers.  The  child  of  weak 
intestines  must  have  neither  oatmeal,  hominy,  nor  mush  for  his 
breakfast  cereal.  Rice,  rightly  cooked,  thickened  milk,  well 
boiled,  and  arrowroot  porridge,  will  heal  irritation,  and,  as  it 
were,  tighten  the  tension  of  the  machine.  He  may  not  indulge 
in  the  apple-sauce  and  cracked  wheat  which  are  better  than  laxa- 
tive drugs  to  his  hale  brother. 

A  bilious  girl  should  not  drink  milk  unqualified  by  a  dash  of 
lime  water,  and  never  take  coffee.  Her  languid,  appetiteless 
mother  will  be  refreshed  in  nerve,  stimulated  in  brain,  by  a  demi- 
tasse  of  strong  coffee  taken  without  cream  after  her  dinner.  It  is 
doubtful  whether  or  not  creamed  coffee  is  a  wholesome  beverage 
for  any  one.  It  is  an  established  fact  that  the  addition  of  cream 
works  a  chemical  change,  and  for  the  worse,  in  that  which, 
taken  clear,  is  a  valuable  digestive  agent. 

An  important  branch  of  the  mother's  profession  is  to  acquaint 
herself  with  the  stomachic  idiosyncrasies  of  each  member  of 
her  household.  Certain  compounds  and  some  simples  do  not 
agree  with  one  person,  while  others  thrive  upon  them.  To  be 
cognizant  of  the  peculiarities  of  each  constitution  is  to  be  fore- 
warned of  the  danger  of  gastronomic  experiments.  Lay  down  as 
a  positive  law  that  it  is  wrong — a  sin  against  the  body  given  by 
God — to  eat  what  one  is  sure  will  disagree  with  one.  Tabulate 
for  your  own  convenience  a  code  of  "kitchen  physic." 

To  wit,  that  Indian  meal  is  laxative ;  oatmeal,  heating ;  wheat- 
flour,  binding ;  that  tea  is  slightly  astringent,  and  coffee,  creamed, 
a  gentle  aperient ;  that  sweets  and  rare  beef  engender  gouty  acid 
in  those  disposed  to  rheumatism  and  constitutional  headache ; 


DIET   AND   DIGESTION  31 

that  candies  and  other  confectionery  ferment  into  sharp  acid  in 
an  empty  stomach,  and  should,  therefore,  never  be  eaten  unless  as 
a  dessert.  The  same  is  true  of  pickles.  Except  when  eaten  in 
combination  with  meats  and  other  oily  foods,  they  are  actively 
unwholesome.  The  schoolgirl  habit  of  champing'  pickled  cucum- 
bers and  pickled  limes,  as  a  starving  pauper  might  gnaw  a  crust, 
is  pernicious  and  disgusting.  The  skins  of  raisins  and  grapes  are 
indigestible.  Figs  are  a  well-known  cathartic,  a  fact  the  house- 
mother should  avail  herself  of  where  a  doctor,  if  summoned, 
would  prescribe  a  drug.  It  is  always  better  to  control  digestive 
irregularities  by  diet  than  by  medicines,  each  of  which  is  a  poison 
which  cures  one  ill  by  creating  another. 

Pears  dispose  one  to  constipation.  Ripe  peaches  and  ripe  ap- 
ples regulate  the  bowels  in  a  vast  majority  of  cases;  an  orange, 
eaten  at  bed  time,  is  a  gentler  agent  than  Rochelle  salts,  and  does 
as  good  work. 

The  veteran  practitioner  who  insisted  fifty  years  ago  that  "cup- 
board cures"  were  safer  and  surer  than  those  wrought  by  materia 
medica  was  in  advance  of  his  age.  The  twentieth  century  is  just 
growing  up  to  his  standard. 


THE  IMPROMPTU  LARDER 

SOME  of  her  friends  call  it  "The  Emergency  Pantry."  The 
owner  objects  to  the  term  because  it  conveys  an  idea  of  bandages 
and  styptics.  Whereas,  the  cozy  closet  devoted  to  the  comfort 
of  possible  guests — to  be  welcomed  and  fed,  although  unexpected 
— contains  substantial  food  and  appetizing  delicacies. 

She  belongs  to  the  great  and  growing  host  of  suburbanites  de- 
pendent upon  peripatetic  butcher  and  baker,  and  the  nearest 
"general  store."  The  keeper  of  the  typical  general  store  never 
orders  so  much  as  one  jar  of  marmalade  or  a  pound  of  fancy  bis- 
cuits until  the  last  is  sold,  and  has  never  a  twinge  of  mortification 
in  saying :  "Just  out !  Expect  new  lot  next  week." 

So  our  hospitable  housewife  stocks  and  keeps  filled  her  reserve 
shelves. 

John  has  a  way  of  bringing  home  a  chance  guest  to  dinner 
when  the  notion  strikes  him,  and  Mrs.  Notable's  town  'friends 
have  their  way  of  happening  to  be  in  dear  Mary's  neighborhood 
about  lunch  time,  and,  having  come  all  the  way  out  from  town, 
it  is  hardly  worth  while  to  go  home  when  there  are  afternoon 
calls  to  be  paid  in  the  suburbs.  When  one  of  these  calls  chances 
to  be  upon  Mrs.  Notable,  afternoon  tea  must  be  served.  Mrs. 
Notable's  daughters  join  theater  and  concert  parties,  going  early 
into  the  city  and  coming  out  late  and  hungry.  Iced  lemonade, 
ginger  ale,  cake  and  sandwiches  refresh  them  and  their  attend- 
ants in  summer,  and  on  winter  nights  something  hot  and  savory 
from  "mother's  chafing  dish." 

Back  of  all  this  stands  mother's  Impromptu  Larder.  One  shelf 
holds  the  best  brand  of  canned  soups,  chicken,  tongue  and  boned 
ham;  another  sardines,  anchovies  in  oil,  anchovy  paste  and  pate 
de  foie  gras,  soused  mackerel,  and  mackerel  with  tomato  sauce. 

32 


THE    IMPROMPTU    LARDER  33 

Baked  beans,  plain,  and  baked  beans  with  tomato  sauce,  have 
honorable  place  among  potted  foods;  also  dainty  jars  of  fancy 
cheeses,  ready  for  use  at  a  second's  notice,  and  bottles  of  grated 
Parmesan.  Olives,  including  pimolas,  stand  in  line  with  "pin- 
money  pickles"  and  catsups.  There  is  a  brave  array  of  home- 
made jellies,  marmalades,  brandied  and  pickled  peaches;  a  case 
of  imported  ginger  ale,  bottles  of  domestic  liqueurs,  and  glass 
cans  of  apple-sauce  and  tomatoes,  put  up  in  Mrs.  Notable's  own 
kitchen.  A  fair  proportion  of  each  kind  of  pickle  and  preserve 
is  set  aside  for  the  Impromptu  Larder  and  not  touched  for  family 
consumption. 

Fancy  biscuits  of  many  sorts  have  several  shelves  for  their  own ; 
sweet  and  unsweetened  cheese  biscuits,  sea-foams  and  snow- 
flakes  and  zwieback;  hard  crackers  and  soft  crackers;  plain 
wafers,  fruit  wafers  and  cream  wafers;  lady-fingers  and  ginger- 
snaps — make  a  goodly  show  to  the  eye  and  stay  the  mistress's 
surprised  soul  when  the  impromptu  luncheon  or  supper  must  be 
more  sudden  and  abundant  than  usual. 

"My  strong  tower !"  she  once  called  this  pantry,  laughingly. 

In  winter  she  finds  room  for  nuts,  raisins,  apples  and  oranges ; 
in  autumn,  for  baskets  of  grapes.  These  last  named  may  be 
called  "transients,"  the  supply  being  renewed  frequently. 

Mrs.  Notable  is  not  a  rich  woman.  She  is  obliged  to  make  each 
dollar  do  the  full  work  of  one  hundred  cents.  To  this  end  she 
keeps  an  "expense  book,"  setting  down  every  article  purchased 
and  the  cost  thereof. 

In  the  account  of  necessary  outlays  that  for  replenishing  the 
stores  in  the  strong  tower  is  registered  under  the  head  of  "HOS- 


FAMILIAR  TALK 

BREAKFAST 

COMMON  sense  would  decide  that  we  should  begin  the  day  with 
the  glad  alertness  with  which  the  sun  smiles  at  us  over  horizon, 
or  housetops.  He  rejoices  as  a  strong  man  ready — that  is,  rubbed 
down,  supple  and  light — to  run  a  race. 

There  are  still  writers  of  "goody"  books  and  works  on  hygiene 
who  extol  the  morning  mood.  According  to  them,  the  whole  hu- 
man machine  is  then  at  its  best.  The  head  is  clear,  the  stomach 
is  vigorous,  the  spirits  are  buoyant,  life  is  a  joy. 

In  reality — the  reality  of  the  every-day  life  of  respectable  people 
who  have  not  tarried  long  at  the  wine,  or  eaten  Welsh  rarebits 
over  night — the  hard  pull  of  the  day  is  at  the  beginning. 

The  head  of  the  average  man  or  woman  ought  to  be  clear,  the 
digestive  organs  active,  limbs  and  joints  in  excellent  working 
order.  There  should  not  be  what  one  comedian  describes  as  a 
"dark-brown,  fuzzy  taste"  in  the  mouth,  or  the  feeling  that  the 
cranium  is  stuffed  with  cotton  wool,  and  the  diaphragm  should 
not  loathe  all  manner  of  food. 

But  such  things  are.  Where  one  man  tells  you  that  breakfast 
is  the  best  meal  of  the  day,  fifty  account  the  ceremony  of  the 
earliest  meal  of  each  new  day  as  a  hollow  mockery.  A  celebrated 
judge  left  upon  record  the  saying:  "No  man  should  be  hanged 
for  a  murder  committed  before  breakfast."  Another,  almost  as 
famous,  openly  and  officially  declared  his  unwillingness  to  con- 
demn a  prisoner  convicted  of  manslaughter  of  whom  his  physi- 
cian had  testified  that  he  was  a  chronic  dyspeptic.  "A  dyspeptic," 
urged  the  judge,  whose  own  diet  had  consisted  of  mush  and  milk 
for  ten  years,  "is  never  quite  sane." 

Not  one  of  his  three  daily  meals  is  "comfortable"  to  him  whose 

34 


FAMILIAR   TALK  35 

alimentary  apparatus  is  out  of  order.  To  one  in  tolerable  health 
the  business  of  "stoking"  the  engine  for  the  drive  of  the  forenoon 
should  not  be  irksome. 

Thus  common  sense  and  hygienic  general  principles.  Now  for 
facts. 

A  brilliant  woman  summed  up  the  popular  judgment  on  the 
subject  in  an  after-luncheon  speech  before  other  literary  women, 
in  the  assertion  that  "the  human  machine  needs  to  be  wound  up 
and  lubricated  and  regulated  by  bath  and  breakfast  before  it  is 
fit  to  work  with  other  machines,  or,  indeed,  to  go  at  all.  Break- 
fast, partaken  of  in  the  company  of  one's  nearest  and  dearest,  is  a 
blunder  of  modern  civilization.  It  is  an  ordeal  over  which  each 
should  mourn  apart." 

A  young  man  of  education  and  breeding,  who  lives  in  bacheloi 
chambers  with  three  other  "good  fellows,"  confesses  that,  while 
the  seven  o'clock  dinner  hour  is  always  full  of  cheer  and  good- 
will, the  four  friends  seldom  exchange  a  syllable  at  the  breakfast 
table  beyond  a  brief  salutation  at  entering  the  room,  and  a  curt 
"good  day,"  in  separating  to  their  various  places  of  business. 

"Thanks  to  this  sensible  silence,  we  have  lived  together  three 
years  without  quarreling,"  he  wound  up  the  story  by  saying. 
"Every  man  is  a  brute  until  he  has  had  his  morning  coffee." 

Much  of  this  is  talk  for  talk's  sake,  and  some  of  it  is  Tem- 
per. It  is  not  easy  for  one  to  get  full  command  of  oneself  before 
the  relaxed  nerves  are  braced  by  tea  or  coffee,  and  the  long-empty 
stomach  is  brought  up  to  concert  pitch  by  food.  If  we  have  slept 
too  heavily,  we  are  stupid:  :f  too  little,  irritable. 

I  admit  that  the  American's  first  meal  of  the  crude  day,  with 
the  accompaniment  of  the  rush  for  car,  or  boat,  or  train,  that 
turns  out — or  in — dyspeptics  by  the  hundred  thousand  yearly,  is 
not  conducive  to  domestic  happiness,  or  the  preservation  of  table 
etiquette.  The  householder,  devouring  porridge,  two  cups  of 
scalding  coffee,  rolls,  steak  and  fried  potatoes,  at  discretion,  with 
one  eye  on  the  clock,  and  both  feet  braced  for  the  jump  and  run 
he  knows  are  imminent  if  he  would  catch  the  train,  is  in  the  first 
or  fortieth  stage  of  what  a  witty  essayist  diagnoses  as  "Ameri- 
canitis."  His  children's  railroad  speed  of  deglutition  and  the 


36  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

scurry  for  school  are  along  the  same  lines  of  discomfort  and  dis- 
ease. 

Upon  the  mother's  hands  and  head  rests  the  responsibility  of 
"getting  them  off  for  the  day," — a  battle  renewed  with  each  morn- 
ing until  she  "fairly  loathes  the  name  and  the  thought  of  break- 
fast." 

The  remedy  for  the  domestic  disgrace — for  it  is  nothing  if  not 
that — is  so  simple  that  I  have  little  hope  it  will  be  respected,  much 
less  accepted. 

It  is,  get  up  fifteen  minutes  earlier  in  the  morning ! 

The  plain  truth  is  that  your  system  is  not  "ready  for  break- 
fast," when  you  announce  that  you  are.  The  racer,  to  whom 
Scripture  compares  the  smiling  God  of  Day,  never  takes  the  first 
lap  at  a  rush.  He  warms  gradually  to  his  work,  having  at  the 
outset  paid  as  diligent  heed  to  the  "Make  ready !"  as  to  the  "Go !" 

If  you  rise  usually  at  seven,  have  the  hot  water  and  cleaned 
boots  brought  to  the  door  at  a  quarter  before  seven,  and  get  up 
when  you  are  called.  A  brisk  bath  and  a  smart  rubbing  with  a 
crash  towel,  preceded  by  fifty  gymnastic  strokes,  such  as  arm- 
swinging  and  general  flexing  of  the  muscles ;  twenty-five  deep 
breaths  that  pump  the  morning  air  down  to  the  bottomest  well  of 
your  lungs  and  clear  the  respiratory  passages  of  effete  matter 
lodged  there  during  the  night — these,  with  a  general  disposition 
to  speak  charitably  toward,  and  to  speak  civilly  to  companions 
and  competitors  in  the  race,  correspond  to  "make  ready."  Clean, 
supple,  and  in  good  heart,  come  to  the  table  as  to  preliminary  re- 
freshment you  have  time  and  appetite  to  enjoy. 

At  least  seven-tenths  of  the  twaddle  over  the  horrors  of  the 
family  breakfast  are  affectation  and  indolence.  Breakfasting  in 
bed  is  an  imported  fashion,  and  to  my  notion,  is  not  a  clean 
practice.  The  tray  brought  to  an  unaired  room,  a  tumbled  bed 
and  an  unwashed  body,  looks  well  in  French  engravings,  but  is  a 
solecism  in  an  age  of  hygienic  principles,  much  ventilation  and 
matutinal  baths.  The  inability  to  be  in  charity  with  one's  fellow 
mortals,  to  smile  genially  and  to  speak  gently  before  the  world 
is  well  started  upon  its  diurnal  swing,  and  the  complainant's 


BREAKFAST   EQUIPAGE 


FAMILIAR    TALK  37 

physical  system  is  toned  and  tuned  and  oiled  by  eating,  is  degrad- 
ing in  itself.    The  confession  of  it  is  puerile. 

Force  yourself  to  speak  pleasantly  if  you  can  not  at  once  bring 
your  spirits  up  to  the  right  level.  Study  to  be  a  man,  or  a  woman, 
although  breakfastless.  To  be  thrown  in  the  first  round  of  the 
day  by  the  sluggish  flesh  and  the  devil  of  ill-humor,  before  the 
world  has  a  chance  to  grapple  with  you,  is  cowardly  and  sinful. 


BREAKFAST  FRUITS 

THE  imported  fashion  of  beginning  breakfast  with  fresh 
fruit  has  become  an  American  custom.  The  assuasive  effect  of 
the  generous  juices  upon  the  coat  of  the  stomach,  usually  clogged 
at  early  morning  with  a  mucous  deposit,  is  a  wholesome 
preparation  for  digestive  processes — a  "toner"  to  just- 
awakened  energies.  To  commit  suddenly  to  the  long- 
suffering  stomach,  as  yet  inert,  and  but  dimly  aware  of 
what  is  expected  of  it,  a  "feed'*  of  beefsteak,  potatoes  and  hot 
breads,  is  always  an  unwelcome  surprise.  Sometimes  the  abused 
organ  turns  with  the  proverbial  blind  wrath  of  the  patient,  and 
revenges  itself,  if  not  speedily,  surely  and  fiercely.  It  would  fain 
be  awakened  kindly  and  gently.  To  this  end,  stay  it  with  oranges, 
comfort  it  with  apples  and  grapes. 

Oranges 

1.  Cut  in  half,  crosswise,  and  dig  out  the  pulp  with  a  silver  or 
gold  orange  spoon. 

2.  They  are  yet  nicer  prepared  beforehand  by  running  a  sharp 
knife  on  the  inside,  close  to  the  rind,  thus  severing  the  membranes 
that  divide  the  lobes.    Take  these  membranes  out  carefully,  leav- 
ing the  pulp  in  the  two  cups  of  the  halved  orange.     It  can  be 
then  eaten  as  easily  as  a  custard  could  be.     Set  on  ice  until  you 
are  ready  to  serve. 

3.  Peel  the  oranges ;  separate  the  lobes  and  cut  each  into  three 
pieces.     Serve  in  a  chilled  glass  dish,  passing  powdered  sugar 
for  those  who  like  it. 

Breakfast  fruits  are  far  more  wholesome  when  eaten  without 
sugar. 

38 


BREAKFAST    FRUITS  39 

Grapes 

Keep  them  on  ice  for  an  hour  before  sending  to  table,  even  in 
winter,  and  scatter  cracked  ice  over  and  among  them.  This  has 
the  double  advantage  of  cooling  and  of  cleansing  them.  Pass 
grape  scissors  with  the  dish  of  fruit. 


Peaches,  pears  and  apples 


Wash  and  dry  pears  and  apples  with  a  soft  cloth.  Have  a 
silver  fruit  knife  at  each  plate,  and  let  the  eaters  pare  the  fruit 
for  themselves.  Peaches  should  be  left  with  the  fur  (and  bloom) 
on. 

Berries 

These  should  never  in  any  circumstances  be  sugared  in  the  dish. 
Let  each  person  sweeten  his  portion  for  himself,  after  which  they 
should  be  eaten  immediately,  before  the  sugar  has  time  to  draw 
out  the  juice  and  thereby  wither  the  berries. 

Strawberries  should  be  eaten  at  breakfast  with  the  caps  on. 
Choose  the  finest  fruit  for  this  meal,  using  the  stem  as  a  handle, 
and  dipping  the  berry  into  powdered  sugar,  if  not  sweet  enough 
to  be  eaten  without. 

Raspberries  and  blackberries 

Never  wash  these,  or  strawberries,  unless  they  are  intolerably 
gritty.  Water  is  ruin  to  flavor  and  integrity,  where  the  more 
delicate  berries  are  concerned.  Set  on  ice  for  an  hour  or  more  be- 
fore sending  to  table.  Pass  sugar  for  those  who  wish  it,  and  in 
helping  out  each  portion  avoid  bruising  the  berries.  "Mashed" 
berries  suffer  an  instant  change  in  flavor.  The  air  begins  at  once 
to  act  chemically  upon  the  liberated  juices. 

Huckleberries  and  gooseberries 

Wash,  drain  and  leave  on  ice  for  two  hours.  Pass  sugar  with 
huckleberries  for  such  as  wish  it.  They  are  better  without  at 


40  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

breakfast.     Gooseberries  are  always  eaten  without.     The  large 
English  varieties  are  delicious  and  very  healthful. 

If  cream  be  eaten  with  breakfast  fruit,  it  should  be  as  an  after- 
course — or  dessert.  It  loses  character  and  effect  as  an  assuasive 
and  persuasive  agent. 

Melons 

Cantelopes  and  nutmeg  melons  are  prime  favorites  as  an  intro- 
ductory step  to  the  weightier  business  of  the  morning  meal.  They 
deserve  their  popularity. 

Cut  those  of  small  and  medium  size  in  half;  scrape  out  the 
seeds  and  put  a  lump  of  ice  in  each  half.  The  larger  may  be  di- 
vided into  thirds,  and  a  piece  of  ice  laid  upon  each  piece.  Pass 
salt  and  pepper,  also  sugar  with  them.  Many  epicures  prefer  to 
eat  them  au  nature  I. 

Stewed  fruits 

In  the  late  winter  or  early  spring-time,  when  apples  are  scarce 
and  dear,  and  oranges  have  not  yet  come  to  their  full  plenteous- 
ness  and  flavor,  the  human  system  needs  anti-bilious  food.  Our 
foremothers  compounded  a  villainous  preventive  against  spring 
"humors,"  of  sulphur  and  molasses,  stirred  together  to  a  cream 
and  administered  before  breakfast  to  each  shuddering  creature 
who  had  pains  in  the  bones,  headache  and  nausea  at  rising,  and  a 
general  sensation  of  good-for-nothingness.  "Advanced"  matrons 
added  cream  of  tartar  to  the  villainous  preventive,  and  gave  their 
families  to  drink  of  cream-of-tartar  lemonade.  According  to 
these  wise  and  worthy  women,  "spring  fever"  was  as  inseparable 
from  the  opening  season  as  robin  song  and  pussy  willow. 

Even  now,  cooling  medicines  are  advised  by  physicians  and  be- 
lieved in  by  families.  The  careful  student  of  hygiene,  a  science 
the  prime  principle  of  which  is  prevention,  and  not  cure,  shows 
us  a  more  excellent  way.  The  kindly  fruits  of  the  earth  never 
merit  their  name  more  truly  than  when  winter  is  going  and 
spring-time  is  coming ;  when  benevolent  bile,  balked  in  its  rightful 
channels,  becomes  a  baleful  agency  to  be  fought  as  an  acknowl- 
edged foe.  In  fruit  and  in  succulent  vegetables  we  find  our  cool- 


BREAKFAST    FRUITS  41 

ing  medicines,  "indicated"  by  the  great  physician,  Nature.     If 
fresh  fruits  be  wanting,  we  must  accept  substitutes. 

Stewed  rhubarb 

Wash,  scrape  and  cut  the  stalks  into  inch  lengths.  Leave  in 
cold  water  for  an  hour.  Put  over  the  fire  in  the  inner  vessel  of 
a  double  boiler,  set  in  cold  water,  bring  to  a  boil  and  simmer 
gently  until  tender  and  clear.  Keep  the  inner  vessel  closely  cov- 
ered that  the  steam  may  do  its  work.  Remove  from  the  fire, 
sweeten  to  taste — not  heavily — turn  into  a  bowl  and  cover  until 
cold. 

As  a  breakfast  dish,  this  is  refreshing  and  most  wholesome. 
Cooked  as  above,  you  get  the  benefit  of  the  anti-bilious  juices, 
undiluted  by  water.  Set  on  ice  for  an  hour  before  eating.  Some 
add  a  handful  of  sultana  raisins  to  the  raw  rhubarb. 

Prunes 

Wash  and  soak  for  two  hours.  Drain,  put  over  the  fire  with 
just  enough  cold  water  to  cover  them,  and  cook  tender.  Turn 
out  and  cover  until  cold.  Put  on  the  ice  for  an  hour  before  send- 
ing to  the  table.  No  sugar  should  be  added  to  prunes  when  they 
are  to  be  eaten  at  breakfast  time. 

They  are  slightly  laxative  and  anti-bilious. 


BREAKFAST  CEREALS 

SOME  dietetists,  who  are  neither  cranks  nor  simpletons,  disbe- 
lieve in  cereals  of  whatsoever  sort  as  a  first  course  at  breakfast. 
They  urge  that  to  spread  a  hot  poultice  all  over  the  lining  of  the 
stomach  is  to  relax  and  weaken  that  organ ;  that  it  goes  to  sleep, 
as  it  were,  and  is  too  inert  to  dispose  properly  of  the  rest  of  the 
meal. 

Others  are  strenuous  in  the  belief  that  the  act  of  chewing  is 
necessary  to  the  proper  assimilation  of  even  semi-solids,  and 
since  few  people  think  of  chewing  porridge,  the  value  of  it  as 
nutriment  is  doubtful. 

There  is  force  in  the  latter  demur.  Children  should  be  taught 
to  chew  porridge  of  all  kinds,  also  bread  and  milk.  One  zealous 
dietist  insists  that  milk — "the  one  and  only  perfect  food"- 
ought  to  be  masticated.  The  motion  of  the  jaws  excites  the  sali- 
vary glands,  he  says,  causing  the  flow  of  a  secretion  most  favor- 
able to  digestion. 

As  to  the  "hot  poultice,"  there  is  a  grain  of  reason  in  the  ob- 
jection. As  I  have  explained  in  urging  the  propriety  of  begin- 
ning breakfast  with  fruit,  the  coat  of  the  stomach  is  masked, 
after  the  sleep  of  the  night,  by  a  thin  mucus,  which  interferes 
with  the  task  of  the  digestive  agencies.  If  fruit  is  not  eaten,  a 
draft  of  cold  water,  not  iced,  will  do  the  work  in  part.  A  few 
swallows  of  really  hot  water  are  better  still.  A  sip  of  tea  or 
coffee — or,  perhaps,  best  of  all,  vichy,  apollinaris  or  other  good 
mineral  water,  may  precede  the  nourishing  cereal. 

That  it  is  nourishing  when  the  stomach  gets  hold  of  it,  is  un- 
deniable. Oatmeal  builds  up  bone,  and  muscle,  and  brain ;  Indian 
meal  mush  and  hominy  are  gently  laxative  and  cooling  to  the 
blood ;  preparations  of  wheat  are  less  laxative,  and  therefore 

42 


BREAKFAST    CEREALS  43 

safer  in  hot  weather,  and  for  teething  children,  than  oatmeal  in  any 
form.  Rice  boiled  tender  in  milk  is  both  palatable  and  wholesome. 
Each  and  all  of  these  should  be  eaten  with  cream,  and  except 
as  a  dessert,  never  with  sugar.  Children  who  are  trained  to  eat 
porridge  and  milk,  or  cream,  without  sugar,  find  the  addition  of 
this  unpleasant.  It  certainly  tends  to  acidity  of  the  stomach. 

Every  cereal,  with  the  exception  of  rice,  that  needs  any  cooking 
needs  a  great  deal  of  it.  Soaking  over  night  is  indispensable  to 
the  excellence  of  most  of  them.  Four  hours  of  boiling  make  oat- 
meal good ;  eight  hours  make  it  better ;  twenty-four  hours  make 
it  "best." 

Oatmeal 

Soak  over  night.  Even  the  varieties  which  are  advertised  "to 
require  no  soaking,  and  but  fifteen  minutes'  cooking,"  are  im- 
proved by  this  process.  Turn  a  deaf  ear  to  the  charmer  who 
would  persuade  you  to  the  contrary.  "Steam  cooked''  is  often  a 
delusion  and  a  snare.  Put  your  oatmeal  into  the  inner  vessel 
of  your  farina  kettle,  cover  deep  in  cold  water,  put  on  the  lid  and 
set  at  the  back  of  the  range  at  bedtime.  In  the  morning  add  boil- 
ing water,  salt  to  taste,  and  draw  to  the  front,  filling  the  outer  ket- 
tle with  hot  water.  Cook  steadily  for  an  hour  and  as  much  longer 
as  you  can.  My  own  taste  is  for  oatmeal  boiled  to  a  jelly.  It  is 
as  far  superior  to  the  ordinary  preparation  of  the  cereal  as 
creamed  cauliflower  is  to  Dutch  cabbage. 

Send  to  table  and  eat  with  cream. 

Never  throw  away  oatmeal  "left-overs."  Cook  again,  and  yet 
again,  always  in  a  double  boiler. 

Hominy 

Soak  all  night ;  cover  with  boiling  water,  slightly  salted,  in  the 
morning,  and  cook  for  an  hour.  A  delicious  preparation  of  hominy 
is  effected  by  cooking  it  in  plenty  of  salted  water  until  tender, 
turning  off  the  water  and  supplying  its  place  with  cold  milk. 
Bring  to  a  boil  and  serve. 


44  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Cracked  wheat 
Cook  as  you  would  oatmeal.    An  hour's  boiling  suffices. 

Milk  porridge 

Heat  a  pint  of  milk  to  boiling.  Into  a  pint  of  cold  milk  stir 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  when  this  is  smooth  stir  it  into 
the  hot  milk.  Cook  in  a  double  boiler  for  an  hour,  add  salt  to  taste, 
and  serve  with  cream. 

Meal-and-flour  porridge 

Mix  together  two  tablespoonfuls  of  Indian  meal  and  the  same 
quantity  of  flour,  wet  them  with  cold  water,  and  stir  into  a  cup  of 
boiling  water.  Cook  in  a  double  boiler  for  half  an  hour,  stirring 
often.  Add  salt,  and  beat  in  slowly  a  pint  of  scalding  milk,  cook, 
stirring*  constantly  for  fifteen  minutes  longer.  Serve  with  cream. 

Brewis  (as  made  by  our  grandmothers) 

Dry  bread  in  the  oven  and  crush  with  the  rolling-pin  into 
crumbs.  Heat  two  cups  of  slightly  salted  milk,  and  when  it  boils, 
stir  in  a  cupful  of  the  dried  crumbs.  Add  a  tablespoonful  of 
butter,  and  cook,  beating  steadily  for  five  minutes.  Serve  hot 
with  cream,  or  an  abundance  of  sweet  milk. 

Rice 

Wash  a  cupful  of  rice  in  two  waters,  then  drop  it  slowly  into 
two  quarts  of  salted  boiling  water.  The  water  should  be  at  a 
galloping  boil.  Do  not  stir  the  rice  once  during  the  twenty  min- 
utes in  which  it  must  cook  steadily.  At  the  end  of  that  time  test 
a  grain  to  see  if  it  is  tender,  and  if  it  is,  turn  the  rice  into  a 
colander ;  shake  this  hard  that  the  air  may  reach  all  the  kernels, 
and  set  in  the  open  oven  five  minutes  before  dishing.  Each 
grain  should  stand  separate  from  the  rest. 


BREAKFAST    CEREALS  45 

This  is  the  South  Carolinian  way  of  cooking  rice,  and  the  one 
and  only  right  way. 

Indian  meal  mush 

Moisten  a  cupful  of  corn-meal  with  enough  cold  water  to  make 
it  into  a  paste.  Stir  this  paste  into  a  quart  of  salted,  boiling 
water,  and  cook,  beating  it  hard  and  often,  for  an  hour  at  least. 
If  the  mush  becomes  too  stiff,  add  from  time  to  time  more 
boiling  water. 

Farina 

A  good,  inexpensive  cereal,  which  seldom  appears  upon  the 
breakfast  table.  Yet  it  should  have  honorable  mention. 

Soak  overnight.  In  the  morning,  stir  it  into  boiling  water, 
slightly  salted,  and  cook  half  an  hour,  stirring  up  well  from  the 
bottom. 

Each  patented  breakfast  cereal  has  its  champion.  It  would  be 
invidious  to  name  any  of  them  here.  Nearly  all  are  founded 
upon  wheat,  corn,  rye,  barley  or  rice.  Each  is  accompanied  by 
full  directions  for  the  preparation  of  the  same  for  the  table. 


BREAKFAST  BREADS 

Beginning  with  the  most  important  and  difficult  form  of 
bread-making,  I  offer  three  methods  of  preparing  and  baking  the 
wholesome  home-made  loaf,  fondly  recollected  by  those  whose 
early  lives  were  spent  in  regions  where  bakers'  sawdusty  cubes 
and  parallelograms  were  not  delivered  at  the  back  door  in  lieu 
of  the  genuine  staff  of  life. 

Potato  sponge  bread   (No.  1) 

Boil  and  mash,  while  hot,  four  potatoes  of  fair  size,  beating 
into  them  a  tablespoonful,  each,  of  cottolene  or  other  fat  and  of 
white  sugar.  Beat  smooth,  adding,  gradually,  one  and  one-half 
pints  of  lukewarm  water.  Strain  through  a  colander  upon  a 
pint  of  sifted  flour.  When  you  have  a  lumpless  batter,  add 
half  a  cake  of  compressed  yeast,  dissolved  in  four  tablespoonfuls 
of  warm  water. 

This  is  your  sponge.  Set  in  a  moderately  warm  place  in  a 
bread-bowl  with  a  perforated  cover.  If  you  have  not  this  cover, 
throw  a  double  fold  of  mosquito  net  or  cheese-cloth  over  the  bowl. 

In  four  hours  in  summer,  and  six  in  winter,  the  sponge  should 
be  light  and  the  top  broken  by  air  bubbles.  Have  ready  in  an- 
other deep  bowl  or  tray  five  pints  of  dried  flour  of  the  best  qual- 
ity, sifted  with  a  tablespoonful  of  salt.  Hollow  a  space  in  the 
middle  and  work  the  sponge  gradually  into  the  flour  with  a 
clean,  cool,  bare  hand,  well  floured  to  hinder  the  dough  from 
sticking  to  it. 

The  dough  should  be  just  stiff  enough  to  handle.  When  you 
can  lift  it  to  the  kneading-board  without  spilling,  it  is  ready. 
Rinse  the  bowl  out  with  a  little  warm  water  and  work  into  the 
dough  in  order  to  get  all  the  sponge.  Flour  the  board  and 


BREAKFAST    BREADS  47 

knead  the  ball  of  dough,  always  working  from  the  outside  of  the 
Dall  toward  the  middle.  After  ten  minutes'  hard  work,  turning 
the  dough  over  and  over  and  around  and  around,  the  dough 
should  be  so  elastic  that  if  you  deal  it  a  smart  blow  with  your 
fist  the  indentation  will  fill  up  again  instantly. 

Return  to  the  mixing  bowl,  cover  and  leave  as  before,  out  of 
drafts  in  a  steady  temperature.  When  it  has  risen  to  double 
the  original  bulk — in  four  or  six  hours — return  to  the  board  and 
knead  again,  quickly  and  vigorously,  for  eight  or  ten  minutes. 
Make  into  loaves  and  set  to  rise  in  pans,  filling  each  half-full. 
Cover  with  a  cloth,  let  all  rise  for  an  hour,  or  until  the  pans  are 
two-thirds  full,  and  bake. 

Have  a  steady  fire,  with  coal  enough  to  last  until  the  baking  is 
over.  See  that  the  ovens  are  ajust  right"  by  holding  your  naked 
arm  in  one.  If  you  can  hold  it  there  comfortably  for  one  whole 
minute  and  not  more,  you  may  put  in  the  bread.  Or  try  the 
oven  with  a  little  flour  put  upon  a  tin  plate  and  set  well  back  in 
the  closed  oven.  It  should  be  delicately  touched  with  brown  in 
five  minutes  if  the  oven  be  right. 

In  ten  minutes  open  the  oven  door  very  cautiously,  and  if  you 
see  the  pans  filled  to  the  top,  cover  with  light-brown  "grocer's 
paper"  to  prevent  the  crust  from  hardening  before  the  heart  of 
the  loaf  is  done.  Ten  minutes  before  the  hour  for  baking  is  up 
remove  the  papers  and  let  the  top  crust  brown. 

Turn  out  the  loaves  carefully  upon  a  cloth,  propping  them 
against  a  pan  or  other  clean  object,  that  they  may  not  get  sodden 
in  cooling.  Do  not  put  into  the  bread-box  until  they  are  entirely 
cold.  The  box  should  have  a  cloth  in  the  bottom,  and  another 
thrown  over  the  bread  before  the  box  is  closed. 

Bread  with  plain  sponge  (No.  2) 

Chop  a  tablespoonful  of  cottolene  or  other  fat,  or  butter,  into  a 
quart  of  flour;  wet  with  a  quart  of  warm  water;  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  and  half  a  yeast-cake  dissolved  in  warm  water. 
Beat  all  together  hard  for  ten  minutes,  as  you  would  cake  batter. 
Cover,  and  set  aside  to  rise  as  with  potato  sponge.  In  the  morn- 


48  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

ing  work  into  two  quarts  of  salted  flour  and  proceed  as  directed 
in  last  recipe. 

Milk  bread  (No.  1) 

Sift  two  quarts  of  flour  with  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar  and  an 
even  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Have  ready  a  pint  of  boiling  water 
into  which  you  have  stirred  an  even  tablespoonful  of  butter. 
Add,  while  the  water  is  boiling,  two  cups  of  milk,  and  take  from 
the  fire  at  once.  When  a  little  more  than  blood-warm,  stir  into 
the  milk-and-water  half  a  cake  of  compressed  yeast,  dissolved 
in  half  a  cupful  of  warm  water.  Make  a  hole  in  the  sifted  flour, 
pour  in  the  mixture  and  work  quickly  with  a  wooden  spoon  to 
a  soft  dough.  Flour  your  hands,  make  the  dough  into  a  man- 
ageable ball  and  knead  hard  and  steadily  for  ten  minutes.  Let 
the  dough  rise  to  double  the  original  bulk  in  your  covered  bread- 
bowl,  make  into  loaves  when  you  have  kneaded  it  for  five  min- 
utes, and  proceed  as  already  directed. 

Milk  bread  (No.  2) 

Sift  two  quarts  of  flour  into  a  large  bowl  and  stir  into  it  a 
teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt  and  sugar.  Into  this  flour  stir  a  pint 
of  warm  milk,  to  which  has  been  added  a  scant  tablespoonful  of 
melted  butter,  a  pint  of  warm  water,  and  half  a  yeast  cake  dis- 
solved in  a  gill  of  blood-warm  water.  Work  to  a  dough ;  turn 
upon  a  floured  pastry-board  and  knead  for  fifteen  minutes.  Put 
the  dough  in  the  bread-raiser  and  set  to  rise  over  night.  Early 
in  the  morning  divide  into  loaves,  knead  each  for  five  minutes, 
put  the  loaves  into  greased  pans  and  set  in  a  warm  place  to  rise 
for  an  hour  before  baking  in  a  steady  oven.  Cover  the  bread 
for  the  first  half -hour  it  is  in  the  oven.  It  should  be  baked  in 
an  hour. 

Whole  wheat  bread  (No.  1) 

Dissolve  a  cake  of  yeast  in  half  a  cupful  of  warm  water.  Pour 
two  cups  of  boiling  water  upon  two  cups  of  milk,  and  stir  into 


BREAKFAST    BREADS  49 

them  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt  and  sugar.  When  they  are 
about  blood-warm  add  the  yeast.  Into  this  stir  a  quart  of  whole 
wheat  flour.  Of  course,  flour  varies  in  its  thickening  powers, 
but  there  should  be  enough  to  make  a  good  batter.  Beat  hard 
for  five  minutes,  then  stir  in  more  flour  until  you  have  a  dough 
that  is  as  soft  as  it  can  be  handled.  Knead  for  ten  minutes  on 
a  floured  board  and  set  to  rise  for  three  hours.  Knead  again 
for  five  minutes ;  make  into  loaves  and  let  these  rise.  When 
light,  bake.  If  the  loaves  are  small  they  will  bake  in  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour. 

Whole  wheat  bread  (No.  2) 

One  tablespoonful  of  cottolene  or  other  fat  and  the  same  of 
sugar.  One  cup,  each,  of  boiling  water  and  of  hot  (not  boiling) 
milk.  One  yeast-cake  dissolved  in  half  a  cup  of  warm  water. 
One  cup  of  white  flour  and  three  cups  of  whole  wheat  flour,  or 
enough  to  make  a  soft  dough.  Knead  for  ten  minutes ;  cover 
and  let  it  rise  until  it  is  twice  its  original  bulk.  Make  into  small 
loaves ;  let  it  rise  for  an  hour,  or  until  very  puffy,  and  bake. 

Graham  bread  (No.  1) 

Set  a  sponge  over  night,  as  for  white  bread,  and  in  the  morn- 
ing work  into  it  a  cup  of  salted  whole  wheat  flour,  three  cups  of 
graham  flour  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  molasses.  Knead  long 
and  hard,  and  set  to  rise.  When  very  light  make  into  loaves 
and  set  in  a  warm  place  for  an  hour  longer.  Bake  in  an  even 
oven.  The  loaves  should  be  covered  with  thick  wrapping-paper 
during  the  first  half-hour  they  are  in  the  oven,  then  allowed  to 
brown.  This  bread  is  especially  nice  when  made  with  a  potato 
sponge,  keeping  fresh  and  sweet  much  longer  than  when  the 
plain  sponge  is  used. 

Graham  bread  (No.  2) 

Make  a  sponge  as  for  white  bread,  over  night,  and  in  the 
morning  add  to  it  three  scant  tablespoonfuls  of  molasses  and 
4 


50  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

enough  graham  flour  to  make  a  soft  dough.  Knead  thoroughly, 
and  after  forming  into  loaves  and  putting  these  into  well-greased 
pans,  set  them  to  rise.  When  risen,  bake  in  a  tolerably  hot  oven. 

Old-fashioned  rye  bread 

Dissolve  half  a  cake  of  yeast  in  a  quarter-cup  of  lukewarm 
milk,  with  a  small  teaspoonful  of  white  sugar.  Pour  this  into 
a  wooden  bowl,  add  a  pint  of  lukewarm  water,  a  heaping  tea- 
spoonful,  each,  of  salt  and  caraway  seed,  and  a  pint  of  rye  flour. 
Stir  well  with  a  wooden  spoon  and  set  to  rise  in  a  warm  place  for 
two  hours.  When  sufficiently  risen  it  will  be  full  of  bubbles. 
Add  then  flour  enough  to  make  a  very  stiff  dough.  Beat  this  for 
at  least  ten  minutes  and  set  to  rise  for  two  hours  more.  Knead 
on  a  floured  board,  let  it  rise  in  the  pan  again  until  it  begins  to 
crack.  Dip  your  hand  in  cold  water,  wet  the  loaf  and  put  it  into 
the  oven.  It  must  bake  one  hour.  Do  not  open  the  door  for  ten 
minutes  after  it  goes  in.  The  oven  should  be  very  hot  at  first, 
and  as  soon  as  the  bread  is  browned  it  should  be  covered  with 
stout  paper. 

If  you  like,  you  may  omit  the  caraway  seeds.  Some  people 
dislike  them  exceedingly.  Others  would  not  relish  rye  bread 
"all  of  ye  olden  time"  without  them. 

Eye  and  Indian  bread 

Make  a  soft,  sponge  of  potatoes,  or  a  plain  sponge.  (See 
Bread  No.  2.)  When  light,  sift  together  two  cupfuls  of  rye 
flour  with  one  of  Indian  meal,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  an  even 
teaspoonful  of  soda.  Make  a  hole  in  the  middle,  pour  in  the 
sponge,  and  when  the  ingredients  are  thoroughly  incorporated 
beat  in  half  a  cupful  of  molasses.  Should  the  molasses  thin  the 
dough  into  a  batter,  add  rye  flour.  Knead  until  it  is  as  light  as 
a  rubber  ball,  set  aside  in  a  covered  bread-bowl  and  let  it  rise 
six  hours.  Work  ten  minutes  more,  make  into  loaves,  and  when 
they  are  well  up  in  the  world  bake  in  a  slow  oven.  The  loaves 


BREAKFAST    BREADS  51 

will  require  three  hours  to  bake  properly.     Cover  with  paper  for 
the  first  two  hours. 

The  dear  old  grandaunt  from  whom  I  got  this  ancient  and 
honorable  recipe  had  baked  her  "rye  and  Indian"  for  fifty  years 
in  the  brick  oven  of  a  homestead  two  hundred  years  old.  She 
covered  her  loaves  with  leaves  from  an  oak  near  the  door.  The 
oak  overshadowed  a  well  dug  in  1640. 

Steamed  Boston  brown  bread 

Mix  thoroughly  a  cup,  each,  of  graham  flour,  wheat  flour  and 
corn-meal,  and  stir  in  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Warm  together  a 
cup  of  milk,  in  which  is  dissolved  a  small  teaspoonful  of  baking 
soda,  and  a  teacup ful  of  molasses.  Pour  over  the  mixed  flours 
and  meal  a  cupful  of  boiling  water,  and  then  add  the  warmed 
milk  and  molasses.  Beat  hard  and  long,  and  turn  into  a  greased 
pudding-mold  with  a  closely-fitting  top.  Cook  in  an  outer  vessel 
of  boiling  water  for  three  hours.  Remove  from  the  water,  take 
the  cover  from  the  mold  and  set  in  the  oven  for  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes,  or  until  the  bread  is  dry  about  the  edges.  Turn  out, 
wrap  in  a  napkin,  and  send  to  the  table. 

''Salt-rising"  bread  (No.  1) 

(An  old  Virginia  recipe) 

Dissolve  a  half-teaspoonful  of  salt  in  two  cups  of  scalding 
water,  and  beat  in  gradually  enough  flour  to  make  a  very  soft 
dough.  Beat  for  ten  minutes,  cover  and  set  in  a  very  warm 
place  for  eight  hours.  Now  stir  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  into  a  pint 
of  lukewarm  milk  and  add  enough  flour  to  make  a  stiff  batter 
before  working  it  into  the  risen  dough.  Mix  thoroughly,  cover, 
and  set  again  in  a  warm  place  to  rise  until  very  light.  Turn  into 
a  wooden  bowl  and  knead  in  enough  flour  to  make  the  batter  of 
the  consistency  of  ordinary  bread  dough.  Make  into  loaves  and 
set  these  to  rise,  and,  when  light,  bake. 


52  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

"Salt-rising"  bread   (No.  2) 

(Contributed) 

Put  a  quart  of  warm  water, — not  scalding  hot,  but  at  blood- 
heat, — into  a  pitcher,  deep  and  of  narrow  mouth.  Beat  into  it 
one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  lump  of 
soda  not  larger  than  a  pea  and  (not  necessarily,  but  preferably) 
a  tablespoonful  of  corn-meal,  with  enough  flour  to  make  a  rather 
thick,  but  not  really  stiff,  batter.  Set  your  pitcher,  well  covered, 
into  a  stone  jar  or  other  deep  vessel,  and  surround  it  with  blood- 
warm  water,  setting  it  where  such  temperature  will  be  quite 
evenly  maintained.  Never  allow  it  to  reach  scalding  heat.  In 
two  and  a  half  hours,  or,  at  the  very  most,  three  and  a  half,  you 
will  have  foaming  yeast.  Now  take  a  pan  of  flour,  make  a  hole 
in  the  center,  pour  in  the  foaming  yeast  with  as  much  water, 
gradually  mixed  with  the  yeast  and  flour,  as  will  make  the  num- 
ber of  loaves  desired.  Do  not  make  the  dough  very  stiff.  It 
should  quake  visibly  when  the  pan  is  shaken.  Cover  well  with 
dry  flour  and  clean  cloths,  set  in  a  warm  place  (temperature  80 
degrees  or  100  degrees  Fahrenheit,  or  thereabouts),  and,  as  soon 
as  light,  knead  into  loaves,  which  will  soon  rise  enough  for  baking. 
Do  not  delay  baking  after  the  last  rising,  or  your  bread  may  have 
a  slightly  sour  taste.  Bake  thoroughly,  and  no  better  or  more 
wholesome  fermented  bread  could  be  asked  for. 

Sweet  potato  bread 

Dissolve  one  cake  of  compressed  yeast  in  one-fourth  cup  of 
lukewarm  water,  add  one  cup  of  scalded  milk  (blood- warm),  one 
tablespoonful  of  salt,  one-half  cup  of  sugar  and  one  full  cup  of 
sweet  potato,  roasted,  scraped  from  the  skins,  worked  to  a  cream 
with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  then  allowed  to  cool. 
Beat  all  together  until  light,  and  stir  in  with  a  wooden  spoon 
flour  to  make  a  soft  dough.  Throw  a  cloth  over  the  bread- 
bowl  and  set  in  a  warm  place  until  well  risen.  Make  into  small 
loaves ;  let  them  rise  for  an  hour,  and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven. 

This  is  also  a  Virginia  recipe.  You  may  substitute  Irish  for 
sweet  potatoes  if  you  like. 


BREAKFAST    BREADS  53 

Buttermilk  bread 

Into  a  chopping-bowl  put  a  quart  of  flour  which  has  been  sifted 
three  times  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder,  the 
same  quantity  of  baking  soda,  and  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt.  Chop  into  this  flour  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter  until 
the  shortening  is  thoroughly  incorporated.  Work  in  gradually 
a  pint  of  buttermilk — or  enough  to  make  a  soft  bread  dough. 
Turn  into  a  greased  bread  tin  and  bake  in  a  steady  oven  for  an 
hour.  Cover  with  paper  for  the  first  half-hour,  that  the  bread 
may  have  an  opportunity  to  rise  before  the  crust  forms.  Turn 
out  and  send  to  the  table  while  very  hot.  Cut  with  a  sharp 
knife  into  slices,  which  must  be  generously  buttered.  While  per- 
haps this  bread  is  not  to  be  recommended  to  people  who  suffer 
from  weak  digestions,  it  will  be  liked  by  those  whose  gastric 
apparatus  is  in  proper  working  order. 

If  you  can  not  get  buttermilk,  loppered  milk  will  do  as  well. 

German  coffee  bread 

Heat  a  cup  of  milk  to  scalding,  but  do  not  let  it  boil.  Stir  into 
it  while  hot  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cottolene  (never  lard),  or 
butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  a  little  salt.  Let  it 
cool  to  blood-warmth,  when  add  half  a  yeast-cake  dissolved 
in  one-quarter  cup  of  blood-warm  milk,  and  flour  to  make  a 
stiff  batter.  Cover,  and  let  rise  until  light.  Add  one-half  cup 
of  seeded  raisins,  cut  into  pieces.  Spread  one-half  inch  thick 
in  a  buttered  dripping-pan;  cover  and  let  rise.  Brush  with 
melted  butter,  and  sprinkle  with  sugar  and  cinnamon.  Bake  in 
a  moderate  oven  for  half  an  hour.  Cover  for  half  of  that  time 
with  thick  paper. 

Graham  bread  without  yeast 

To  three  and  one-half  cups  of  graham  flour  add  two  cups  of 
sour  milk,  one  cup  of  New  Orleans  molasses,  a  pinch  of  salt  and 
one  teaspoonful  of  soda  dissolved  in  hot  water.  Bake  in  a  slow 
oven  one  hour. 


54  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 


HOT   BREAKFAST   BREADS 

Hot  breads — comprising  griddle-cakes,  biscuits,  muffins,  Sally 
Lunns  and  crumpets — may  not  be  wholesome  for  everybody.  I 
seriously  incline  to  the  belief  that  they  are  not,  especially  in 
warm  weather,  and  if  partaken  of  too  freely. 

But  the  best  types  of  these  are  good,  and  their  appearance  upon 
the  board  where  John  had  looked  for  stale  bread,  or  charred 
toast,  is  a  means  of  breakfast  grace  not  to  be  underrated  by  the 
wise  housewife.  She  is  a  canny  woman  who  runs  down  into  the 
kitchen  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  on  a  stormy  morning,  or  when 
the  bread  is  especially  dry,  or  John  is  "a  wee  bit  blue,"  and  tosses 
up  (always  by  rule  and  measure)  ingredients  that  come  out  of 
a  quick  oven,  puffy,  hot,  delicious,  to  gladden  the  boys'  hearts 
and  give  their  father  pleasanter  food  for  consideration  than  busi- 
ness worries.  If  the  men  of  any  family  were  called  upon  for 
their  opinion  of  what  a  dietetic  crank,  better  versed  in  anatomy 
and  chemistry  than  in  courtesy,  once  anathematized  at  my  break- 
fast table  as  "rank  poison,  madam !  and  nothing  short  of  a  sin !" 
they  would  say  of  his  tabooed  hot  breads — "Naughty !  but  nice !" 

One  John — who  hankers  for  the  buckwheat  cakes  and  sausage 
of  his  boyhood  as  the  wanderers  in  the  wilderness,  their  souls 
a-weary  of  manna,  lusted  for  Egyptian  flesh-pots — maintains, 
upon  fairly  tenable  hygienic  principles,  that  warm  bread  is  made 
unwholesome  because  it  is  not  masticated  properly. 

"We  chew  stale  bread,"  he  says.  "We  bolt  griddle-cakes  and 
muffins  because  they  are  soft  and  easily  swallowed.  Give 'the 
salivary  glands  a  chance  to  act  upon  them  and  they  will  not 
harm  you." 

The  prescription  is  easily  tried. 

Breakfast  rolls  (No.  1) 

Sift  a  quart  of  flour  with  a  half-teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  rub  into  it  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  add  a 
cup  of  warm  milk  and  a  third  of  a  yeast-cake  that  has  been  dis- 


BREAKFAST   BREADS  55 

solved  in  three  tablespoonfuls  of  warm  water,  and  knead  this 
dough  for  twenty  minutes.  Set  to  rise  for  six  or  eight  hours, 
make  into  rolls,  put  these  into  a  greased  baking;-pan,  and  let 
them  rise  for  half  an  hour  longer  before  baking. 

Breakfast  rolls  (No.  2) 

Sift  a  quart  of  flour  and  stir  into  it  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  a 
teaspoonful  of  sugar,  a  cup  of  warm  milk,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  melted  cottolene  or  other  fat,  and  two  beaten  eggs.  Dissolve 
a  quarter  of  a  cake  of  compressed  yeast  in  a  little  warm  milk 
and  beat  in  last  of  all.  Set  the  dough  in  a  bowl  to  rise  until 
morning.  Early  in  the  morning  make  quickly  and  lightly  into 
rolls,  and  set  to  rise  near  the  range  for  twenty  minutes.  Bake 
for  about  an  hour. 

Parker  house  rolls 

One  cup  of  scalded  milk  (not  boiled)  left  to  cool  until  a  little 
more  than  blood-warm,  one-half  yeast-cake  dissolved  in  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  warm  water,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  three 
cups  of  flour,  or  a  little  less,  one  even  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  one- 
half  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Melt  the  butter  in  the  milk,  add  salt,  sugar  and  yeast  with 
rather  less  than  half  the  flour.  Make  a  sponge  of  these  ingredi- 
ents, beat  hard  for  five  minutes  and  set  in  a  warm,  sheltered 
place  to  rise. 

It  should  be  quite  light  in  an  hour  and  a  half  in  winter,  an 
hour  in  summer.  Work  in  the  rest  of  the  flour  until  you  have 
a  soft  dough.  Knead  three  minutes  and  set  to  rise  with  a  folded 
cloth  over  the  bowl  to  exclude  the  air.  When  it  has  doubled  its 
original  bulk,  turn  out  upon  your  kneading-board,  and  work 
quickly,  but  lightly,  with  fingers,  not  fists,  for  one  minute.  Roll 
with  quick  strokes  and  few  into  a  thick  sheet,  rub  over  with 
melted  butter  (not  hot).  Roll  up  and  knead  one  minute  longer 
to  incorporate  the  butter.  Pull  off  bits  of  the  dough  three  times 
as  large  as  a  walnut,  and  roll  on  the  board  into  the  desired  shape. 
Arrange  close  together  in  the  baking-pan.  Cover  and  let  them 


56  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

rise  for  half  an  hour,  again  doubling  their  size;  then  bake  in  a 
brisk,  steady  oven.  Twenty  minutes  should  suffice.  When  they 
have  been  in  five  minutes  cover  with  whitey-brown  grocer's 
paper.  Five  minutes  before  the  time  is  up  take  this  off  and 
brown. 

Vienna  rolls 

Set  a  plain  bread  sponge  at  six  o'clock  in  the  evening.  At 
bedtime  make  out  a  dough  as  directed  for  home-made  bread. 
Cover  in  your  mixing-bowl  and  set  in  a  moderately  warm  place 
until  six  o'clock  next  morning.  Make  into  round  rolls  as  large 
as  a  small  egg ;  set  in  a  floured  baking-pan  so  far  apart  that  they 
will  not  touch  as  they  rise;  cover  and  leave  for  an  hour.  Just 
before  they  go  into  the  oven  cut  half  through  the  middle  of  each 
with  a  floured,  sharp  knife.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  to  form  a 
good  crust.  Cover  at  the  end  of  ten  minutes  with  paper.  Re- 
move this  fifteen  minutes  later  and  brown. 


Raised  apple  biscuits 

(An  old  Virginia  recipe) 

One  cup  of  scalded  milk  left  to  become  blood-warm;  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter  melted  in  the  milk ;  one  tablespoonful  of 
sugar;  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt;  one-half  teaspoonful  of 
baking-soda;  one-half  cake  compressed  yeast,  dissolved  in  warm 
water;  one  cupful  of  grated  apple;  enough  flour  for  making 
soft  dough. 

Mix  the  sugar  with  the  butter  and  milk,  and  add  the  yeast. 
Sift  salt  twice  with  a  cupful  of  flour.  Make  a  hole  in  the  middle 
and  pour  in  the  liquid.  Beat  into  a  batter  and  let  it  rise  four 
hours.  When  light,  sift  the  soda  twice  with  another  cupful  of 
flour ;  grate  the  just-pared  apple  into  the  batter  and  beat  in  before 
it  can  change  color.  Finally,  work  in  the  sifted  flour  and  soda. 
Let  it  rise  for  an  hour,  make  into  round,  flat  cakes  with  your 
hand;  set  close  together  in  a  pan,  and  when  very  light  bake  in 
a  moderate  oven.  They  are  very  good  split  open  while  hot,  and 
buttered  and  sugared. 


BREAKFAST    BREADS  57 

Sally  Limn 

Sift  together  a  pint  of  flour,  a  half-teaspoonful  of  salt  and  the 
same  of  powdered  sugar. 

In  a  large  bowl  beat  stiff  two  eggs,  pour  on  them  a  half-cup 
of  warm  milk,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  melted,  and  a  quar- 
ter of  a  tablespoonful  of  baking  soda  dissolved  in  a  tablespoonful 
of  hot  water.  Now  slowly  beat  in  the  sifted  flour  and  a  quarter 
of  a  yeast-cake  dissolved  in  half  a  cup  of  warm  water.  Whip 
to  a  smooth  batter,  and  turn  into  a  large  greased  mold  to  rise. 
In  the  morning  set  the  mold  in  a  steady  oven  and  bake  for  half 
an  hour,  or  until  a  straw  pierced  through  the  center  of  the  loaf 
comes  out  clean.  Turn  out  and  serve  at  once. 


Dried  rusk 

(An  old  Dutch  family  recipe) 

Mix  together  a  pint  of  milk,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  but- 
ter, a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  half-cake  of  yeast  dissolved  in  a 
half-cup  of  lukewarm  water.  Add  enough  flour  to  make  a  thick 
batter,  beat  it  in  well,  cover  the  bowl  containing  this,  and  set  in 
a  warm  place  for  two  hours.  Now  work  in  the  beaten  eggs,  and, 
when  these  are  incorporated,  add  enough  flour  to  make  a  dough 
that  can  easily  be  rolled  out.  Set  to  rise  for  two  hours  longer, 
then  turn  upon  a  floured  board,  roll  out  and  cut  into  round  bis- 
cuits. Lay  in  a  baking-pan  and  set  these  near  the  range  to  rise 
for  half  an  hour.  Bake,  and  when  done  leave  in  the  open  oven 
to  dry  out.  See  that  the  fire  is  so  low  that  the  rusk  will  dry,  not 
brown  or  burn.  If  you  can  spare  the  oven  so  long  leave  the  rusk 
in  it  for  six  or  eight  hours ;  then  set  in  a  dry  closet  for  several 
days  before  using.  When  you  wish  to  use  them  lay  in  a  deep 
bowl,  pour  iced  milk  upon  them  and  let  them  soak  until  soft. 
Serve  very  cold  with  butter. 

They  are  delicious  for  summer-morning  breakfasts. 


58  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

,  / 

Caraway  biscuits 

(Contributed) 

Sift  together  three  pints  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and 
one  and  one-half  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder.  Rub  into  this 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  shortening.  Add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  car- 
away seed,  two  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  one  pint  of  milk.  Mix  this 
into  a  smooth,  firm  dough.  Knead  quickly ;  roll  out  to  about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness  and  cut  with  a  large  biscuit-cutter. 
Prick  with  a  fork,  lay  on  greased  baking  tins  and  bake  in  a  hot 
oven  fifteen  minutes. 

Egg-  biscuits 

(Contributed) 

Sift  together  a  quart  of  flour  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 
ing-powder. Rub  into  this  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an 
egg.  Add  two  well-beaten  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar  and 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Mix  together  quickly  with  one  cup  of 
milk  or  more  if  needed.  Roll  to  one-half  inch  thickness,  cut  into 
biscuits  and  bake  at  once  in  a  quick  oven  twenty  minutes. 

French  rolls 

(Contributed) 

To  three  cupfuls  of  sweet  milk  add  a  cup  of  shortening  and 
one-half  cake  of  compressed  yeast  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
Add  flour  enough  to  make  a  stiff  dough.  Let  this  rise  over 
night.  In  the  morning  add  two  well-beaten  eggs;  knead  thor- 
oughly and  let  rise  again.  Make  into  balls  about  as  large  as 
an  egg  and  then  roll  between  the  hands.  Place  close  together 
on  well  buttered  pans.  Cover,  let  rise  again,  then  bake  in  a  quick 
oven  to  a  delicate  brown. 


BREAKFAST    BREADS  59 

Fruit  rolls 

(Contributed) 

Sift  two  cupfuls  of  flour,  two  teaspoon fuls  of  baking-powder, 
one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt  thoroughly  together  and  mix  with 
two-thirds  cup  of  milk.  Roll  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thickness. 
Brush  over  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter.  Mix  to- 
gether one-third  cupful  of  stoned  raisins,  chopped  fine,  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  citron,  chopped  fine,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  sugar 
and  one-third  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon.  Spread  this  .mixture 
over  the  dough,  roll  up  like  a  jelly  roll,  cut  in  pieces  three- 
fourths  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  bake  in  quick  oven  fifteen 
minutes. 

Hot  cross  buns 

(Contributed) 

To  three  cups  of  milk  add  flour  enough  to  make  a  thick  bat- 
ter. Into  this  stir  one  cake  of  compressed  yeast  dissolved  in 
warm  water.  Set  this  to  rise  over  night.  In  the  morning  add 
a  few  spoonfuls  of  melted  butter  and  one-half  spoonful  of 
grated  nutmeg,  one  saltspoon  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda, 
and  'flour  enough  to  make  a  stiff  dough  like  biscuit.  Knead  well 
and  let  rise  five  hours.  Roll  to  one-half  inch  thickness,  cut  in 
round  cakes  and  put  in  buttered  baking  pans.  Let  stand  until 
light.  Make  a  deep  gash  in  each  with  a  knife.  Bake  in  mod- 
erate oven  till  light  brown.  Brush  over  the  top  with  the  beaten 
white  of  an  egg  and  powdered  sugar. 

Currant  buns 

• 

Warm  a  cupful  of  cream  in  a  double  boiler,  take  it  from  the 
fire  and  stir  into  it  a  cupful  of  melted  butter  which  has  not  been 
allowed  to  cook  in  melting.  Beat  three  eggs  very  light,  add 
them  to  the  cream  and  butter,  then  stir  in  a  cupful  of  sugar. 
Dissolve  a  half-cake  of  yeast  in  a  couple  of  tablespoonfuls  of 
water,  sift  a  good  quart  of  flour,  make  a  hollow  in  it,  stir  into  it 
the  yeast  and  then,  after  adding  to  the  other  mixture 'a  teaspoon- 


60  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

ful,  each,  of  powdered  mace  and  cinnamon,  put  in  the  flour  and 
yeast.  Beat  all  well  for  a  few  minutes,  add  a  cupful  of  currants 
that  have  been  washed,  dried  and  dredged  with  flour,  pour  into 
a  shallow  baking  pan,  let  it  rise  for  several  hours  until  it  has 
doubled  in  size,  bake  one  hour  in  a  rather  quick  oven.  Sprinkle 
with  fine  sugar  when  done. 

Raised  muffins 

In  a  quart  of  warm  milk  dissolve  thoroughly  half  a  yeast-cake. 
Stir  into  this  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  cottolene  or  other  fat.  Add 
enough  flour  to  make  a  quite  stiff  batter — not  dough — and. set  to 
rise  over  night.  In  the  morning  whip  into  the  batter  four  well- 
beaten  eggs  and  turn  into  heated  and  greased  muffin-tins.  Bake 
at  once. 

English  muffins 

Bring  a  pint  of  milk  to  the  boiling  point  and  stir  into  it  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  cottolene  or  other  fat.  Set  aside  until  the  mixture 
is  lukewarm,  then  add  two  cups  of  flour  into  which  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt  has  been  sifted.  Now  beat  in  half  a  yeast-cake  dissolved 
in  a  quarter  of  a  cup  of  warm  water,  and  set  the  batter  aside  to 
rise  all  night.  In  the  morning  add  a  cup  of  sifted  flour,  and  with 
floured  hands  make  lightly  into  round  muffins  and  set  to  rise  in 
greased  muffin-tins  for  half  an  hour.  Slip  the  rings  and  their 
contents  on  to  a  greased  griddle  and  bake,  first  on  one  side,  then 
on  the  other,  until  done. 

•English  crumpets  (No.  1) 

f  Mix  together  -three  gills  of  lukewarm  water,  a  half-teaspoon- 
ful,  each,  of  salt  and  sugar  and  a  teaspoonful  of  melted  butter ; 
then  dissolve  a  quarter  of  a  yeast-cake  in  •  this  mixture.  Into 
this  stir  enough  flour  to  make  a  very  stiff  batter.  Beat  for  ten 
minutes,  adding  as  you  do  so  enough  lukewarm  milk  to  make 
batter  just  stiff  enough  to  be  poured  slowly  from  the  bowl. 


BREAKFAST    BREADS  61 

Grease  shallow  muffin-rings,  place  these  on  a  soapstone  griddle, 
and  when  hot  pour  the  batter  into  them  to  the  depth  of  a  quarter- 
inch  and  bake  slowly,  not  turning  until  brown  on  the  under  side. 
Then  turn  for  just  a  few  minutes. 

English  crumpets  (No.  2) 

On  baking-day  take  a  pint  of  dough  from  your  bread-bowl 
an  hour  before  breakfast.  Put  into  a  bowl  and  make  a  hole  in 
the  middle.  Have  ready  two  eggs  beaten  very  light,  and  work 
them  into  the  dough.  Then  thin  it  with  milk  and  water  to  the 
consistency  of  griddle-cakes ;  beat  it  well,  let  it  rise  until  break- 
fast, bake  them  on  a  hot  griddle,  butter  and  send  to  the  table  hot. 


QUICK   BISCUITS,    ETCETERA 

Milk  biscuits 

One  quart  flour,  three  cups  of  milk,  one  tablespoonful  mixed 
butter  and  cottolene  or  other  fat,  one  heaping  teaspoonful  of 
baking-powder,  half-teaspoonful  of  salt.  Sift  the  salt  with  the 
flour,  chop  in  the  butter  and  cottolene  or  other  fat,  add  the  bak- 
ing-powder and  the  milk  and  mix  to  a  soft  dough.  Handle  as 
little  as  possible.  Roll  out  into  a  sheet  an  inch  .thick,  cut  into 
rounds  and  bake  in  a  floured  pan. 

Milk-and-water  biscuits 

Make  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  but  using  one  and  one-half 
cups  of  milk  and  the  same  quantity  of  water.  Some  housewives 
prefer  these  to  the  all-milk  biscuits,  alleging  that  the  milk  tends 
to  make  the  dough  heavy. 

Quick  Sally  Lunn 

A  quart  of  flour  sifted  twice  with  a  teaspoonful  of  baking- 
powder,  one  cupful  of  milk,  one-half  cupful  of  melted  butter, 


62  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

four  eggs,  beaten  light ;  one  teaspoonf ul  of  salt.  Add  the  sifted 
flour  last,  in'  great  handfuls,  stirring  all  the  time,  as  long  as  you 
can  use  a  spoon.  The  dough  should  be  very  soft ;  in  fact,  almost 
a  batter.  Bake  in  a  mold  with  a  funnel  in  the  middle,  and  eat 
while  hot. 

Potato  biscuits 

Boil  and  mash  six  or  eight  potatoes.  While  warm,  lay  on  a 
floured  pastry-board,  and  run  the  rolling-pin  over  and  over  them 
until  they  are  free  from  lumps.  Turn  into  a  bowl,  wet  with  a 
cup  of  sweet  milk,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  melted  butter ;  when 
well  mixed  work  in  half  a  cup  of  salted  flour,  or  just  enough  to 
make  a  soft  dough.  Return  to  the  board,  roll  out  quickly  and 
lightly  into  a  thin  sheet,  and  cut  into  round  cakes.  Bake  in  a 
quick  oven.  Butter  as  soon  as  they  are  done,  laying  one  on  top 
of  the  other  in  a  pile.  Eat  before  they  fall. 

The  excellence  of  potato  biscuits  depends  very  greatly  upon 
the  softness  of  the  dough,  light  handling,  and  quick  baking.  If 
properly  made,  they  will  be  found  extremely  nice.  They  are  a 
favorite  Irish  dish. 

Graham  biscuits 

Stir  together  in  a  chopping-bowl  a  pint  of  graham  flour  and 
a  half-pint  of  white  flour.  To  this  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one 
of  sugar,  and  two  rounded  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder.  Mix 
thoroughly,  and  chop  into  the  mixture  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
cottelene  or  other  fat.  Add  a  pint  of  milk,  and  if  the  mixture  is 
then  too  stiff  to  handle,  add  enough  water  to  make  into  a  soft 
dough.  Turn  upon  a  floured  board,  roll  out,  and  cut  into  biscuits, 
handling  as  little  and  as  lightly  as  possible.  Bake  in  a  steady 
oven. 

Virginia  beaten  biscuits 

One  pint  of  flour,  one  cup  of  water,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
Mix  into  a  stiff  dough;  transfer  to  a  floured  block  of  wood  and 
beat  with  a  rolling-pin,  steadily,  for  ten  minutes,  shifting  the 
dough  often  and  turning  it  over  several  times.  In  the  olden 


BREAKFAST    BREADS  63 

days  half  an  hour  was  the  regulation  time,  but  ten  minutes  are 
enough  if  one  has  a  strict  eye  to  business.  Cut  into  round  cakes, 
prick  with  a  straw  and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven. 


MUFFINS   AND    THEIR    CONGENERS 

Whole  wheat  muffins 

INTO  a  quart  of  whole  wheat  flour  stir  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder.  Beat  three  eggs  light  and 
stir  them  into  three  cups  of  rich  milk,  Add  these  to  the  flour, 
stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  cottolene  or  other  fat,  and  beat 
very  hard  for  at  least  five  minutes.  Turn  into  greased  muffin- 
tins  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Oatmeal  muffins 

(Contributed) 

To  one  cup  of  oatmeal  mush  add  one-half  cup  of  milk,  one 
well-beaten  egg,  one  teaspoonful  of  butter,  one  tablespoonful  of 
sugar  and  one  cup  of  flour  in  which  has  been  sifted  two  teaspoon- 
fuls of  baking-powder.  Stir  well  together  and  bake  in  hot 
muffin-pans. 

Sally's  muffins 

One  egg ;  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar ;  one-quarter  cup  of  butter. 
Beat  all  together  thoroughly.  Add  one  cup  of  milk,  a  little  salt 
and  one  cup  of  flour  into  which  is  sifted  two  teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 
ing-powder. Now  add  enough  flour  to  make  a  batter  a  little 
stiffer  than  for  griddle-cakes.  Bake  in  well-buttered,  hot  muffin- 
tins. 

Risen  brunette  muffins 

Cream  together  two  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sugar  and  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter  and  add  to  it  three  cups  of  warm  (not 
hot)  milk.  Sift  into  a  bowl  three  cups  of  graham  flour  and  one 
of  white,  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Pour  into  this  the  butter, 


64  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

sugar  and  milk  mixture  and  add  a  cup  of  warm  milk  in  which 
half  a  yeast-cake  has  been  dissolved.  Beat  thoroughly  and  set 
in  a  warm  place  to  rise  for  at  least  six  hours.  Butter  muffin-tins, 
half  fill  with  the  mixture,  and  set  on  a  stool  by  the  range  to  rise 
for  fifteen  minutes  before  baking  in  a  steady  oven. 

Graham  puffs 

Thoroughly  beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and  whip  the  whites  to 
a  stiff  meringue.  To  the  yolks  add  a  pint  of  milk,  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  melted  cottolene  or  other  fat,  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  sugar.  Sift  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder 
into  a  quart  of  graham  flour  and  stir  this  gradually  into  the  milk 
and  yolks.  Beat  until  all  lumps  are  gone  and  you  have  a  smooth 
batter,  then,  with  a  few  strong  strokes,  add  the  stiffened  whites 
of  the  eggs.  Half  fill  deep  heated  muffin-tins  with  the  batter  and 
bake  at  once  in  a  hot  but  steady  oven. 

Graham  gems  (No.  1) 

Into  a  quart  of  warm  milk  stir  four  eggs  that  have  been  beaten 
only  a  little,  add  a  tablespoonful,  each,  of  melted  butter  and 
sugar.  Add  now,  gradually,  three  cupfuls  of  graham  flour  that 
has  been  sifted  with  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder. 
Beat  very  hard  for  seven  or  eight  minutes  and  bake  in  greased 
and  heated  gem  pans. 

Graham  gems  (No.  2) 

Into  a  pint  of  warm  milk  whip  three  unbeaten  eggs,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  melted  butter  and  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar.  Grad- 
ually stir  in  a  cup  and  a  half  of  graham  flour  and  beat  hard  for 
several  minutes.  Turn  into  heated  gem  pans,  and  bake  in  a  very 
hot  oven.  Serve  immediately. 


BREAKFAST    BREADS  65 

Rice  muffins 

Make  a  batter  of  a  quart  of  milk,  three  beaten  eggs,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  melted  butter,  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt  and  sugar, 
and  two  cups  of  prepared  flour.  Mix  thoroughly  and  beat  in  a 
cup  of  cold  boiled  rice.  Beat  very  hard  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Graham  muffins 

Rub  to  a  cream  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar  and  two  of  butter. 
Into  this  beat  four  eggs.  Sift  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder 
into  three  cups  of  graham  flour,  add  the  butter  and  egg  mixture, 
and  beat  very  hard.  Turn  into  heated  and  greased  muffin-tins 
and  bake  in  a  very  hot  oven. 

Popovers 

Two  cups  of  flour,  sifted  twice  with  one  teaspoonful  of  baking- 
powder;  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt;  two  cups  of  milk;  one  egg, 
beaten  very  light.  Beat  for  four  minutes  and  bake  in  hot,  but- 
tered pate,  or  gem  pans,  in  a  brisk  oven.  Serve  at  once. 


WAFFLES 

Risen  waffles 

Four  eggs;  two  cups  of  milk;  three  tablespoonfuls  of  melted 
butter ;  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar ;  three  cupfuls  of  flour,  sifted 
with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt ;  one-half  yeast-cake  dissolved  in 
warm  water.  Beat  well  and  long;  set  in  a  warm  place  to  rise 
and  bake  in  waffle-irons. 

Rice  waffles 

One  cup  of  boiled  rice ;  one  pint  of  sweet  milk ;  two  eggs ;  one 
teaspoonful  of  baking-powder ;  one  teaspoonful  of  salt ;  a  table- 
5 


66  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

spoonful  of  butter  and  flour  to  make  a  thin  batter.  Sift  salt, 
baking-powder  and  one  scant  cup  of  flour  twice  together;  add 
milk  and  eggs,  beat  in  butter  and  rice.  Beat  two  minutes. 

Quick  waffles 

Two  cups  of  flour  sifted  twice  with  one  teaspoonful  of  baking- 
powder  and  the  same  of  salt.  Three  eggs ;  one  tablespoonful  of 
butter  or  cottolene  or  other  fat.  Two  cupfuls  of  milk. 

Beat  the  yolks  smooth,  add  the  milk,  and  turn  this  upon  the 
prepared  flour.  Whip  lightly  and  quickly  for  one  minute,  add  the 
stiffened  whites  and  drop  by  the  spoonful  into  heated  and  greased 
waffle-irons. 

GRIDDLE    CAKES 

If  you  can  get  a  soapstone  griddle,  use  no  other.  Cakes  are 
baked — not  fried — upon  it,  and  are  thereby  made  comparatively 
wholesome.  Set  the  griddle  at  the  side  of  the  range  to  heat  grad- 
ually at  least  one  hour  before  you  begin  to  bake  the  cakes.  If 
heated  suddenly  it  is  liable  to  crack.  Clean  with  dry  salt,  then 
wipe  with  a  clean  cloth  and  it  is  ready  for  use.  Never  allow  a 
drop  of  grease  to  touch  it. 

"If  you  have  an  iron  griddle,  lubricate  with  a  bit  of  salt  pork, 
leaving  just  enough  grease  on  the  surface  to  prevent  sticking. 
The  popular  prejudice  against  griddle-cakes  is  founded  mainly 
upon  the  fact  that  dough  or  batter  soaked  in  grease  is  abhorrent 
to  dietetic  ethics. 

Soapstone  and  iron  griddles  alike  need  tempering  or  seasoning 
in  order  to  do  their  work  well.  They  are  seldom  "just  right"  at 
the  first  trial.  Give  them  time  and  handle  them  patiently. 

Buckwheat  cakes  (No.  1) 

Mix  together  a  quart  of  buckwheat  flour,  four  tablespoonfuls 
of  yeast,  a  handful  of  Indian  meal,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  New 
Orleans  molasses,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  enough  water  to  make 


BREAKFAST    BREADS  67 

a  thin  batter.  Beat  hard  and  set  to  rise  in  the  warm  kitchen. 
A  pint  of  this  may  be  left  over  in  the  morning  after  the  baking 
of  the  cakes  and  used  as  a  sponge  the  following  night,  the  flour, 
etc.,  being  added.  If  the  batter  seems  sour,  add  a  very  little 
baking-soda.  This  batter  may  be  kept  in  a  stone  crock  for  a  week 
or  longer. 

Buckwheat  cakes  (No.  2) 

One  cup  of  milk  and  same  of  boiling  water ;  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  molasses ;  half  cake  of  compressed  yeast  dissolved  in  warm 
water ;  one-half  teaspoonf ul  of  salt ;  two  cups  of  buckwheat  flour, 
or  enough  for  a  good  batter. 

Beat  five  minutes,  and  set  in  a  warm  place  to  rise.  In  the 
morning  beat  hard  for  one  minute ;  if  it  be  sour,  add  a  little  soda, 
and  let  it  rise  near  the  fire  for  half  an  hour  before  baking. 


Quick  buckwheat  cakes 

Two  cups  of  buckwheat  and  half  a  cup  of  corn-meal ;  two  cups 
of  warm  milk  and  half  a  cup  of  warm  water ;  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  molasses,  two  teaspoonf uls  of  baking-powder;  one  even  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt. 

Mix  milk,  water  and  molasses  together.  Sift  meal  and  flour 
three  times  with  the  baking-powder  and  salt.  Make  a  hole  in 
the  center  of  the  flour,  stir  in  the  milk  and  water  quickly  and 
lightly  until  you  have  a  good  batter — not  too  stiff — and  bake. 

Sour  milk  buckwheat  cakes 

Make  as  in  preceding  recipe,  substituting  loppered  milk  or 
buttermilk  for  sweet,  and  a  rounded  teaspoonful  of  baking-soda 
for  the  baking-powder. 

Whole  wheat  griddle-cakes 

Sift  a  quart  of  whole  wheat  flour,  a  teaspoonful  of  baking- 
powder  and  one  of  salt  well  together.  Stir  into  this  a  tablespoon- 


68  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

ful  of  melted  butter,  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  two  beaten  eggs 
and  two  cupfuls  of  milk.  Beat  all  together  and  bake  upon  a 
soapstone  griddle. 

Lizzie's  flannel  cakes 

Two  cups  of  flour ;  two  cups  of  sweet  milk ;  one  egg ;  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking-powder;  a  generous  pinch  of  salt.  Beat  the 
egg  very  light;  add  the  milk  and,  lastly,  with  just  enough  beating 
to  mix  all  together,  the  flour,  sifted  twice  with  salt  and  baking- 
powder.  Bake  at  once. 

After  several  years  trial  of  this  simple  recipe,  I  can  recommend 
it  unhesitatingly  as  the  best,  cheapest  and  most  wholesome  way 
I  know  for  preparing  breakfast  cakes.  The  excellence  of  the 
cakes  depends  upon  quick  mixing  and  baking.  A  soapstone 
griddle,  which  is  never  greased,  should  be  used. 

Waffles  may  be  made  in  the  same  way  mixed  a  little  thinner  by 
using  less  flour. 

Huckleberry  griddle-cakes 

(Contributed) 

To  one  cup  of  milk  add  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking-powder,  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar  and  two 
well  beaten  eggs.  Add  sufficient  flour  to  make  a  batter.  Stir  into 
this  one  pint  of  huckleberries  rolled  in  flour.  Fry  on  hot  griddle. 
Butter  them  hot  and  serve. 

Feather  griddle-cakes 

Add  to  a  pint  of  water  and  milk  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  half- 
teacupful  of  yeast  and  flour  enough  to  make  a  batter.  Let  stand 
all  night.  In  the  morning  add  one  cupful  of  thick  sour  milk,  two 
eggs  well  beaten,  one  level  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  level  tea- 
spoonful  of  soda  and  flour  enough  to  make  the  consistency  of 
pancake  batter.  Let  stand  twenty  minutes  and  then  bake  . 

Bice  griddle-cakes 

Scald  one  pint  of  milk  and  let  stand  until  cold.  Then  add  one- 
half  cake  of  compressed  yeast,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  cup 


BREAKFAST    BREADS  69 

of  boiled  rice  and  about  one  and  one-half  cups  of  flour.  Beat 
continuously  for  three  minutes.  Cover  and  let  stand  in  warm 
place  till  morning.  In  the  morning  beat  two  eggs  separately 
until  they  are  very  light.  Add  first  the  yolks  and  then  the  whites. 
Mix  thoroughly  and  let  stand  fifteen  minutes  and  then  bake  on 
hot  griddle. 

Peas  griddle-cakes 

Take  two  cups  of  cooked  green  peas  and  rub  through  a 
strainer.  Pour  into  this  one  cup  of  boiling  milk.  Add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  butter  and  one  of  sugar  and  one  of  salt.  When  cold 
add  one  egg  beaten  till  light  and  one  cup  of  flour  into  which  has 
been  sifted  three  level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder.  Fry  on  a 
soapstone  griddle. 

French  pancakes 

To  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  add  one  cup  of  milk,  one-half  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar.  Pour  one-third 
of  this  mixture  on  one-half  cup  of  flour  and  stir  to  a  smooth 
paste ;  then  add  the  remainder  of  the  mixture  and  beat  well.  To 
this  add  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salad  oil.  Pour  enough  of  the 
batter  into  a  hot  buttered  frying-pan  to  cover  the  pan.  When 
brown  turn  and  brown  the  other  side.  Spread  with  butter  and 
jelly,  roll  up  and  sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar. 

Sour  milk  griddle-cakes 

> 

Into  a  quart  of  loppered  milk  stir  a  quart  of  flour,  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt  and  two  beaten  eggs.  Mix  thoroughly,  then  add  as  much 
flour  as  will  be  needed  to  make  a  good  batter.  Last  of  all,  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  baking  soda  dissolved  in  a  tablespoonful  of  hot 
water.  Balce  at  once  on  a  very  hot  griddle. 

Stale  bread  griddle-cakes 

Let  two  cupfuls  of  dry  bread  crumbs  soak  for  an  hour  in  a 
quart  of  milk.  Into  this  beat  a  tablespoonful,  each,  of  molasses 
and  melted  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  three  well-beaten 


70  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

eggs.  When  thoroughly  mixed,  add  half  a  cupful  of  flour  which 
has  been  sifted  with  a  half  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder.  Bake 
on  a  soapstone  griddle  if  possible. 

Hominy  griddle-cakes 

One  cup  of  cold  boiled  hominy  beaten  to  a  smooth  paste  with  a 
tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  then  whipped  light  with  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs;  two  eggs,  whites  and  yolks  beaten  separately;  one 
cup  of  milk;  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  sifted  twice,  with  an 
even  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt; 
one  tablespoonful  of  molasses.  Stir  molasses  into  the  milk,  add 
to  the  hominy,  butter  and  yolks ;  lastly,  put  in  prepared  flour  and 
the  whites  of  the  eggs. 

Sweet  corn  griddle-cakes 

One  cup  of  sweet  corn  fresh  or, canned,  chopped  fine  and  run 
through  a  vegetable  press ;  one  cup  of  hot  milk ;  one  tablespoon- 
ful, each,  of  butter  and  sugar ;  half  teaspoonful  of  salt ;  one  cup 
of  flour  sifted  twice  with  a  rounded  teaspoonful  of  baking-pow- 
der and  a  little  salt ;  two  eggs.  Mix  as  you  would  hominy  cakes. 

Corn-meal  and  graham  griddle-cakes 

Two  cups  of  corn -meal  and  one  cup  of  graham  flour.  The 
flour  should  be  sifted  three  times  with  one  even  teaspoonful  of 
baking-powder  and  a  little  salt.  One  quart  of  scalding  milk. 
One  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  the  same  of  molasses,  stirred  to 
a  cream.  One  even  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Two  eggs — whites  and 
yolks  beaten  separately. 

Scald  the  meal  with  the  milk,  beat  in  butter  and  molasses  and 
let  it  cool  to  blood  warmth  before  adding  the  beaten  yolks  and 
the  prepared  flour  alternately  with  the  stiffened  whites.  If  too 
stiff,  thin  with  cold  milk.  Beat  hard  and  bake.  Wholesome  and 
palatable  if  properly  made. 


BREAKFAST    BREADS  71 

Graham  griddle-cakes 

Two  cups  of  graham  flour;  two  tablespoon fuls  of  butter,  or 
one  of  butter  and  one  of  cottolene  or  other  fat ;  one  of  molasses ; 
three  cups  of  milk ;  four  eggs ;  one  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder 
and  twice  as  much  salt  sifted  twice  with  the  flour ;  half  a  cup  of 
white  flour  mixed  thoroughly  with  the  brown.  Stir  shortening 
and  molasses  to  a  cream,  beat  in  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  then  the 
milk,  a  little  at  a  time,  lastly  the  mixed  flour  alternately  with  the 
whites  of  the  eggs.  The  batter  should  be  like  thick  cream  before 
you  bake  it. 


VABIOUS  BREAKFAST  BREADS  OF 

INDIAN  MEAL 

• 

Corn  bread  made  of  northern  meal 

Two  cupf uls  of  corn-meal ;  one  cupful  of  flour ;  two  and  a  half 
cupfuls  of  milk ;  three  eggs ;  a  tablespoonful,  each,  of  butter  and 
white  sugar ;  one  teaspoonful  of  salt ;  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder. 

Melt  the  butter  and  stir  it  into  the  eggs,  which  should  have 
been  beaten  very  light,  and  after  sifting  the  salt,  sugar  and  bak- 
ing-powder with  the  meal  and  flour,  put  in  the  milk,  eggs  and 
butter.  Beat  hard  and  bake  for  half  an  hour  in  a  greased  pan 
in  a  steady  oven. 

Corn  bread  made  of  southern  meal 

Beat  two  eggs  light ;  stir  half  a  cupful  of  cold  boiled  rice  into 
a  pint  of  milk  and  add  to  the  eggs,  rice  and  milk  a  tablespoonful 
of  melted  butter.  Sift  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  into  two  cups  of 
Indian  meal ;  stir  all  together  and  bake  in  shallow  pans.  Eat  hot. 

This  is  the  Southern  batter  bread,  or  "egg  bread." 


72  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Indian  meal  crumpets 

Heat  a  quart  of  milk  to  scalding  and  pour  it  gradually  upon 
two  full  cups  of  corn-meal.  When  thoroughly  mixed,  stir  into 
this  a  tablespoonful  of  granulated  sugar  and  a  quarter  of  a  yeast- 
cake  dissolved  in  a  little  warm  milk.  Cover  the  bowl  or  batter 
with  a  clean  cloth  and  set  to  rise.  Early  in  the  morning  add  a 
tablespoonful  of  melted  cottolene  or  other  fat  and  beat  hard  for 
a  moment  before  pouring  the  batter  into  muffin-tins.  Set  near  the 
range  for  twenty  minutes  and  bake. 

Steamed  corn  loaf 

Mix  together  in  a  bowl  a  pint  of  corn-meal  and  a  half-pint  of 
flour.  Make  a  hole  in  the  center  of  the  mixture  and  pour  into  this 
three  large  cupfuls  of  sour  milk.  Beat  hard  and  stir  in  a  table- 
spoonful  of  melted  butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  baking-soda  dissolved  in  a  tablespoonful  of  boiling 
water.  Beat  for  several  minutes,  turn  into  a  greased  mold  with 
a  tightly-fitting  cover  and  steam  for  two  hours.  Turn  out  upon 
a  platter,  set  in  the  oven  for  five  minutes,  and  send  to  the  table. 

Sour  milk  corn  bread 

Mix  together  in  a  bowl  three  cups  of  corn-meal  and  one  cup  of 
graham  flour.  Stir  in  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  tablespoonful  of 
sugar,  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter  and  three  cups  of  sour 
milk.  Now  beat  in  three  eggs,  whipped  light,  and  a  small  tea- 
spoonful  of  soda  dissolved  in  a  little  boiling  water.  Beat  for  five 
minutes,  then  pour  into  a  greased  mold  with  a  funnel  in  the 
center.  Bake  for  an  hour,  or  until  a  straw  comes  out  clean  from 
the  thickest  part  of  the  loaf. 

Sour  milk  corn-meal  griddle-cakes 

One-half  cup  of  white  corn-meal  and  the  same  of  flour ;  one  and 
a  half  cups  of  loppered  milk  or  buttermilk ;  one  tablesponf ul  of 
molasses  and  the  same  of  melted  butter ;  one  rounded  teaspoonful 


BREAKFAST    BREADS  73 

of  soda  and  half  as  much  salt  sifted  twice  with  flour  and  meal ; 
one  egg  beaten  very  light.  Beat  molasses  and  butter  to  a  cream ; 
add  the  milk,  the  egg,  lastly  the  prepared  meal  and  flour.  Beat 
hard  one  minute. 

Buttermilk  corn  bread 

Two  cups  of  buttermilk;  three  well-beaten  eggs;  two  scant 
cups  of  Indian  meal  (white)  ;  one  rounded  teaspoonful  of  soda; 
one  tablespoonful  of  sugar. 

Beat  the  eggs  separately,  sift  the  soda  twice  through  the  meal 
and  add  one  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Beat  the  ingredients  well  to- 
gether, adding  the  whites  last  of  all.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  in 
muffin-rings,  with  a  large  spoonful  of  the  batter  to  each,  and 
cook  to  a  golden  brown. 

Dinah's  corn  bread 

Sift  two  cups  of  corn-meal  twice  with  an  even  teaspoonful  of 
soda  and  as  much  salt.  Beat  two  eggs  very  light.  Mix  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar  in  three  cups  of  buttermilk  or  loppered  milk, 
add  the  eggs  and  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  lastly,  the 
prepared  flour.  Have  ready  three  well-greased  deep  jelly-cake 
tins  (warmed),  divide  the  batter  between  them  and  bake  in  a 
quick  oven.  Eat  hot. 

Corn-meal  gems 

Sift  together  a  half-cup  of  flour,  a  cup  of  Indian  meal,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking-powder  and  a  half -teaspoonful  of  salt ;  into  a 
pint  of  milk  whip  three  beaten  eggs,  a  tablespoonful  of  melted 
cottolene  or  other  fat  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  granulated  sugar. 
Make  a  hole  in  the  meal  and  flour  mixture  and  gradually  pour  the 
liquid  into  this,  beating  steadily.  Beat  hard  for  about  five  min- 
utes, pour  into  greased  and  heated  gem  pans  and  bake  in  a  good 
oven.  Remove  from  the  tins  and  send  immediately  to  the  table. 

Two-and-two  Indian  meal  muffins 

One  full  cup,  each,  of  Indian  meal  and  white  flour ;  two  cups  of 
milk;  two  eggs;  two  tablespoonfuls  of -melted  butter;  two  tea- 


74  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

spoonfuls  of  sugar;  two  even  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder; 
two  saltspoonfuls  of  salt.  Sift  meal  and  flour  together  three 
times  with  baking-powder  and  salt.  Add  beaten  yolks  to  the 
milk,  then  the  butter  and  sugar  beaten  together,  lastly  the  pre- 
pared flour  and  meal.  If  too  stiff  thin  with  milk.  Bake  in  hot 
muffin-tins  or  in  gem  pans. 


Johnny-cakes 

(Contributed) 

Sift  with  two-thirds  of  a  cup  of  flour,  one  tablespoonful  of 
sugar,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder  and  one  teaspoonful 
of  salt.  Pour  two  cups  of  boiling  milk  over  two  cups  of  corn- 
meal  and  when  cool  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs  well  beaten  and  the  sifted  flour.  Beat  the 
mixture  and  just  before  putting  in  the  oven  add  the  whites  of  two 
eggs  whipped  light  and  dry.  Bake  in  a  shallow  pan  and  serve 
hot. 

Corn  pone 

(Contributed) 

Mix  with  cold  water  one  quart  of  sifted  corn-meal,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  one  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter.  Mold 
into  oval  cakes  with  the  hands.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  in  well- 
greased  pans.  The  crust  should  be  brown. 

Hominy  cake 

(Contributed) 

Take  one  cupful  of  hot  boiled  hominy,  add  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt  and  yolks  of  two  well-beaten  eggs.  Add  slowly  one  cupful 
of  milk,  one  cupful  of  corn-meal  and  the  whipped  whites  of  two 
eggs.  Bake  in  a  flat  tin  in  a  hot  oven  twenty  or  thirty  minutes. 


BREAKFAST   BREADS  75 

Corn  waffles 

(Contributed) 

Sift  together  one  cup  of  white  flour,  one  cup  of  corn-meal,  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder  and  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  until  thick,  add  one  and  a  fourth 
cups  of  milk  and  stir  into  the  flour  mixture.  Then  add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  melted  butter  and  the  whites  of  three  eggs  beaten 
stiff.  Bake  on  a  hot  waffle-iron  and  serve  with  caramel  sauce. 


DIVERS   KINDS   OF   TOAST 

Buttered  toast 

CUT  the  crusts  from  thin  slices  of  stale  bread  and  toast  them 
over  a  clear  fire  to  a  delicate  brown ;  spread  lightly  with  butter 
and  pile  upon  a  hot  plate ;  keep  in  the  open  oven  until  sent  to  the 
table. 

German  toast 

Pare  the  slices  and  cut  into  strips  twice  as  wide  as  your  middle 
finger  and  about  as  long.  Toast  quickly  on  both  sides,  butter 
lightly  and  serve  very  hot 

Baked  milk  toast 

Trim  off  the  crust  from  slices  nearly  half  an  inch  thick ;  toast 
to  a  uniform  light  brown.  Have  on  the  range  a  pan  of  boiling 
water,  salted.  As  you  remove  each  slice  from  the  toaster  dip 
quickly  into  the  boiling  water  and  lay  in  a  well-buttered  pudding 
dish ;  buttering  the  toast  while  smoking  hot  and  salting  each  slice. 
When  all  the  soaked  toast  is  packed  into  place,  cover  with  scald- 
ing milk  in  which  has  been  melted  a  tablespoonful  of  butter. 
Cover  closely  and  bake  fifteen  minutes. 

This  is  so  far  superior  to  the  usual  insipid  preparation  of  mik 
toast  that  no  one  who  has  eaten  the  first  can  enjoy  the  poor 
parody. 


76  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Cream  toast 

Toast,  and  proceed  as  in  last  recipe,  but  dipping  each  slice  in 
hot  salted  milk  instead  of  water,  and  when  in  the  dish  covering; 
with  a  mixture  one-third  milk,  two-thirds  cream,  made  very  hot. 
Add  a  pinch  of  soda  to  the  cream  to  prevent  curdling. 

Cream  toast,  baked,  is  delicious  and  nutritious.  Either  of  these 
dishes  can  be  made  of  graham  bread. 

Fried  toast 

Cut  rather  thick  slices  of  stale  bread  round  with  a  cake  cutter ; 
spread  upon  a  platter  and  pour  over  them  a  mixture  of  one  cup 
of  milk  with  an  egg  beaten  into  it,  then  salted  slightly.  Turn 
the  slices  until  saturated,  drain  carefully  and  fry  as  you  would 
doughnuts  in  deep  hot  cottolene  or  other  fat,  turning  when  half 
done.  Lay  scrambled  or  poached  eggs  or  a  nice  mince  upon  them 
for  breakfast. 

Tomato  toast 

Prepare  precisely  as  directed  in  recipe  for  baked  milk  toast, 
but  pour  over  the  pile  of  slices  in  the  dish  a  rich  strained  tomato 
sauce,  lifting  the  toast  with  a  fork,  that  the  sauce  may  get  at 
each  piece.  Cover  and  bake.  Serve  in  the  dish  as  an  accompani- 
ment to  chops,  omelet  or  hash. 

Anchovy  toast 

Cut  stale  bread  into  strips  an  inch  and  a  half  wide  and  three 
inches  long;  toast,  butter  and  spread  with  anchovy  paste,  as  a 
foundation  for  scrambled  or  poached  eggs. 

Sardine  toast 

(Contributed) 

Butter  rounds  of  toast  and  set  in  the  oven  to  brown.  Drain 
the  oil  from  a  box  of  sardines  and  flake  with  a  silver  fork.  Put 
into  a  saucepan  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  teaspoon ful  of 
lemon  juice  and  one-half  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice.  Stir  until 


BREAKFAST    BREADS  77 

hot  and  then  add  the  flaked  sardines.     Stir  until  the  fish  is  hot. 
Spread  on  the  hot  rounds  of  bread  and  serve  at  once. 

Cheese  custard  toast 

(Contributed) 

Sprinkle  hot  toasted  bread  with  grated  cheese.  Set  in  the 
oven  until  the  cheese  melts.  Take  out  and  arrange  in  layers  in 
a  pudding  dish  and  pour  over  it  an  unsweetened  custard.  Put  in 
a  moderate  oven  until  the  custard  is  done.  Serve  at  once. 

Oyster  toast 

(Contributed) 

Put  twelve  oysters  into  a  saucepan  with  their  own  liquor  and 
one-quarter  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  one  glass  of  milk  and 
two  cloves.  Boil  for  three  minutes.  Mix  one  ounce  of  butter 
with  one-half  ounce  of  flour ;  put  this  in  a  pan  and  stir  well.  Add 
one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice  and,  when  boiling,  pour  the  mix- 
ture over  the  toast  and  serve. 

Mushroom  toast 

(Contributed) 

Cut  the  stems  of  mushrooms  fine  and  stew  in  a  little  milk. 
Slice,  in  quarters,  the  tops.  Cook  five  minutes  in  plenty  of  butter. 
Then  add  cream  enough  to  make  a  sauce ;  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Let  the  stems  simmer  until  tender,  adding  some  cream, 
if  needed.  There  should  be  sauce  enough  to  moisten  the  toast. 
Pour  on  toast  and  serve. 

Ham  toast 

(Contributed) 

Mince  the  lean  of  two  slices  of  cooked  ham  very  finely.  Beat 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  mix  with  the  ham,  adding  enough  cream  or 
stock  to  make  it  soft.  Keep  it  on  the  fire  long  enough  to  warm 
through,  stirring  all  the  time.  Have  ready  some  buttered  toast 
cut  in  rounds,  Lay  the  ham  mixture  neatly  on  each  piece. 


EGGS 

"THE  following  method  of  determining  the  age  of  eggs  is  prac- 
tised in  the  markets  of  Paris.  About  six  ounces  of  common 
cooking  salt  is  put  into  a  large  glass,  which  is  then  filled  with 
water.  When  the  salt  is  in  solution  an  egg  is  dropped  into  the 
glass.  If  the  egg  is  only  one  day  old,  it  immediately  sinks  to 
the  bottom ;  if  any  older  it  does  not  reach  the  bottom  of  the  glass. 
If  three  days  old,  it  sinks  only  just  below  the  surface.  From 
five  days  upwards  it  floats ;  the  older  it  is  the  more  it  protrudes 
out  -of  the  water." — German  Newspaper. 

Boiled  eggs  (No.  1) 

Be  sure  the  water  is  at  a  rapid  boil.  Wash  the  eggs  in 
warm  water,  leaving  them  in  it  just  long  enough  to  take  off  the 
chill.  If  you  put  them  on  to  boil  while  cold  you  must  allow 
twenty  seconds  for  the  shells  to  get  warm.  Boil  steadily  three 
minutes  and  a  half,  take  out,  wrap  in  a  warmed  napkin  and  send 
immediately  to  table. 

Boiled  eggs  (No.  2) 

Wash  in  warm  water;  lay  in  boiling  water  and  remove  the 
saucepan  promptly  from  the  fire  to  the  side  of  the  range  where 
it  will  hold  the  heat,  but  can  not  possibly  boil.  Cover  closely  and 
leave  thus  for  seven  or  eight  minutes,  according  to  the  size  of  the 
eggs.  It  will  be  of  a  custard-like  consistency  all  through,  and  be 
far  more  digestible  than  when  the  white  is  firm  and  the  yolk  soft. 

Poached  eggs 

Add  a  little  vinegar  to  the  water  in  which  you  poach  eggs,  to 
prevent  the  whites  from  spreading.  Breaking  each  one  into  a  shal- 

78 


EGGS 


EGGS  79 

low  cup  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  it  is  to  be  cooked  is 
also  a  good  plan. 

Be  sure  the  water  is  boiling  and  free  from  specks.  If  you  have 
no  egg-poacher,  use  a  clean  frying-pan.  Fill  with  boiling  water ; 
draw  to  the  side  of  the  range,  slip  the  eggs,  one  by  one,  upon  the 
surface,  set  carefully  back  over  the  fire  and  boil  gently  three  min- 
utes, or  until  the  whites  are  firm.  Take  up  with  a  flat  perforated 
spoon,  lay  upon  rounds  of  buttered  toast,  trim  off  ragged  edges 
and  dust  lightly  with  salt  and  white  pepper.  Celery  salt  gives  a 
pleasant  flavor  to  poached  eggs,  and  some  relish  a  drop  of  onion 
juice  upon  each. 

Eggs  poached  in  milk 

Proceed  as  with  those  poached  in  water,  using  boiling  milk  in- 
stead. When  done,  transfer  to  slices  of  hot  buttered  toast  laid 
upon  a  platter  and  pour  over  all  a  white  sauce — plain  drawn  but- 
ter, or  butter  drawn  in  stock  of  some  kind.  Chicken  stock  is 
particularly  good  for  this. 

Scrambled  eggs 

Have  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  hissing  hot  in  the  frying-pan. 
Break  six  eggs  into  a  bowl ;  add,  without  breaking  the  eggs,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  or,  if  you  have  none,  of  milk  in  which 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  corn-starch  has  been  wet ;  add  pepper,  salt, 
and  a  little  finely  minced  parsley ;  turn  all  into  the  pan,  and  stir 
incessantly  in  all  directions,  until  you  have  a  creamy  mass. 

Turn  out  upon  buttered  toast  or  into  a  hot  water  dish  and 
serve  before  the  mass  hardens. 

Scrambled  eggs  in  cups 

With  a  rather  large  tin  "shape"  cut  round  out  of  slices  of  stale 
bread  an  inch  thick.  With  a  small  "shape"  cut  more  than  half 
through  these  rounds  and  dig  out  the  crumb  carefully,  leaving 
bottom  and  sides  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Set  in  a  pan  on  the 
upper  grating  of  the  oven  to  crisp.  When  of  a  delicate  brown, 


8o  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

butter  the  insides  and  edges  of  the  "cups"  and  leave  in  the  oven 
three  minutes  longer.  Arrange  on  a  dish  and  fill  with  scrambled 
eggs  prepared  as  in  the  last  recipe. 

Fried  eggs 

Fry  'slices  of  bacon  quickly,  take  out  the  meat  and  keep  it  hot  ; 
strain  the  fat  that  ran  from  them,  add  a  tablespoonfu}  of  cottolene 
or  other  fat  or  dripping,  bring  to  a  boil  and  break  into  the  pan 
as  many  eggs  as  you  need.  Slip  a  spatula  under  each,  as  soon 
as  it  is  fairly  "set"  and  reverse  it  dexterously  if  you  like  "turned" 


^ 

Trim  ragged  and  discolored  edges,  arrange  in  the  center  of  a 
hot  platter  and  lay  the  bacon  about  them. 

Fried  eggs  with  brown  sauce 

Put  a  good  lump  of  butter  into  the  frying-pan,  and  when  it 
hisses  sharply,  cook  the  eggs  as  directed  in  the  last  recipe.  When 
done,  dish  and  keep  them  hot  over  boiling  water.  Now  put  two 
more  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  into  the  pan  ;  fry  brown,  then  add 
one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  and  a  little  onion  juice  with  pepper 
and  salt.  Boil  the  whole  together  for  two  minutes,  pour  it  over 
the  eggs,  and  serve. 

Deviled  eggs 

Boil  six  eggs  hard,  cut  carefully  in.  half,  and  take  out  the  yolks. 
Rub  these  to  a  paste  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter, 
one-half  teaspoonful  of  Chili  sauce,  and  a  saltspoonful,  each,  of 
salt,  pepper  and  French  mustard.  Form  this  mixture  into  balls 
that  will  fit  into  the  halved  whites.  Set  these  halves  on  end  on 
a  hot  platter,  put  a  yolk-ball  in  each,  and  keep  hot  while  you 
make  the  sauce  to  pour  about  them.  To  make  this,  cook  together 
a  teaspoonful  of  butter  and  one  of  flour,  and  pour  over  them  a 
half  pint  of  hot  milk  with  a  pinch  of  soda  stirred  in  it.  When 
this  sauce  is  thick  and  smooth,  add  to  it  one  beaten  egg  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  finely  minced  parsley.  Remove  immediately 
from  the  fire  and  pour  around  the  eggs. 


EGGS  81 

Mince  of  tongue  and  eggs 

Boil  a  fresh  calf's  tongue,  let  it  get  cold,  and  mince  fine.  Heat 
a  half-pint  of  soup  stock,  and  cook  together  in  a  frying-pan  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one  of  browned  flour.  On  this  pour 
the  hot  soup  stock,  and  cook  until  you  have  a  thick,  brown  sauce. 
Into  this  turn  the  chopped  tongue,  and  toss  and  stir  until  smoking 
hot.  Season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  tomato  catsup,  a  teaspoonful 
of  onion  juice,  salt  and  pepper.  Have  ready  slices  of  toast  on  a 
heated  platter,  pour  the  hot  mixture  over  these ;  put  a  poached 
egg  in  the  center  of  each  slice  of  toast,  and  serve. 

Kidneys  are  delicious  cooked  in  this  way. 

Mince  of  ham  and  eggs 

Prepare  as  above,  but  using  cold  boiled  and  minced  ham  in 
place  of  the  tongue.  A  mixture  of  cold  liver  and  ham  is  very  pal- 
atable. 

Savory  eggs 

Dissolve  a  pinch  of  soda  in  a  cup  of  cream  and  heat  the  cream. 
In  another  vessel  heat  a  pint  of  stock.  Turn  into  the  stock  six 
beaten  eggs,  season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper  and  minced  parsley ; 
cook  until  the  eggs  begin  to  thicken,  stirring  all  the  time ;  add  the 
cream  and  serve  on  slices  of  lightly  buttered  toast. 

A  curry  of  eggs 

Put  into  a  saucepan  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  when  this 
has  melted,  stir  into  it  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  mixed  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  curry  powder.  When  these  are  thoroughly  blended 
with  the  butter  pour  slowly  into  the  saucepan  a  cupful  of  veal, 
mutton  or  chicken  stock,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  and 
season  with  salt.  Stir  until  you  have  a  smooth  sauce,  then  lay  in 
it  six  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  into  slices  about  half  an  inch  thick. 
Cook  until  the  eggs  are  thoroughly  heated. 
6 


82  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

A  simple  omelet 
(Contributed) 

Beat  the  yolks  and  whites  of  six  eggs  separately,  and  stir 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  milk  into  the  yolks.  Melt  a  tablespoonful 
of  butter  in  a  hot  frying-pan.  Stir  the  yolks  and  whites  very 
lightly  together;  pepper  and  salt  them,  and  turn  the  frothed 
mass  into  the  frying-pan.  Keep  the  omelet  from  sticking  to  the 
bottom  and  sides  of  the  pan  by  frequently  slipping  a  knife  or 
cake-turner  around  the  sides  and  under  the  bottom  of  the  egg 
mixture.  When  the  omelet  is  set,  slip  it  off  upon  a  hot  platter, 
and,  as  you  do  so,  fold  it  over  quickly  and  lightly.  Serve  at  once. 

An  English  omelet 

Break  six  eggs,  and  separate  the  yolks  from  the  whites.  Beat 
the  yolks  until  they  are  thick.  Add  a  saltspoonful  of  salt  to  the 
whites,  and  whip  them  until  they  are  very  stiff.  Now,  with  quick 
strokes,  lightly  stir  the  whites  into  the  yolks.  Have  a  tablespoon- 
ful of  butter  melted  in  a  frying-pan  and  turn  the  beaten  eggs 
into  this.  With  a  knife  keep  the  omelet  loosened  from  the  sides 
and  bottom  of  the  pan,  and  take  care  that  it  does  not  scorch  on 
the  bottom.  When  "set"  slip  the  omelet  upon  a  hot  platter,  and, 
as  it  leaves  the  pan,  fold  it  over  upon  itself,  sprinkle  with  salt, 
and  send  at  once  to  the  table. 

Omelet  with  tomato  sauce 

Make  what  is  known  in  cookery  as  a  "white  roux"  by  cooking 
in  a  saucepan  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one  of  flour,  and, 
when  they  bubble,  pouring  over  them  a  cupful  of  strained  and 
seasoned  tomato  juice.  Keep  this  sauce  hot  while  you  make  an 
omelet  by  the  foregoing  recipe ;  dish  it,  and  after  it  is  on  the  plat- 
ter pour  the  tomato  sauce  over  and  around  it. 

A  bread  omelet  (baked) 

Soak  three  tablespoonfuls  of  stale  crumbs  in  a  cupful  of  milk 
for  two  hours.  Beat  six  eggs — whites  and  yolks  separately 


EGGS  83 

— very  light.  Into  the  yolks  stir  the  soaked  crumbs,  and  season 
the  mixture  with  salt  and  pepper.  Last  of  all,  stir  in  with  a  few 
light  strokes  the  stiffened  whites.  Butter  a  deep  pudding  dish, 
pour  the  mixture  into  this,  set  it  on  the  lower  grating  of  a  quick 
oven  and  bake  until  light  and  brown.  Sift  brown  crumbs  over 
the  top  and  serve  the  omelet  as  soon  as  it  is  removed  from  the 
oven. 

Omelet  aux  fines  herbes 

Chop  finely  parsley,  thyme,  summer  savory,  chives,  or  any 
green  herbs  you  fancy;  make  two  tablespoonfuls  in  all;  season 
with  paprika  and  celery  salt.  Make  an  omelet  in  the  usual  way, 
pour  into  the  pan,  and,  before  it  forms,  sprinkle  the  herbs  over 
the  surface,  stirring  gently  to  mix  them.  Cook  then  as  you 
would  a  plain  omelet.  A  parsley  omelet  is  made  according  to  this 
recipe,  using  no  herbs  except  parsley. 

Oyster  omelet 

Before  putting  your  omelet  over  the  fire,  have  ready  the  fill- 
ing. Chop  a  dozen  oysters  into  tiny  bits.  Stir  together  over  the 
fire  a  large  spoonful  of  butter  and  one  of  flour.  When  smooth 
and  bubbling  draw  to  the  side  of  the  range  and  add  gradually 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  (with  a  pinch  of  soda),  and  the 
same  quantity  of  strained  oyster  liquor.  Set  back  over  the  fire 
and  stir  until  it  boils.  Season  with  paprika  and  salt;  add  the 
chopped  oysters,  and  bring  again  to  a  boil.  Set  in  boiling  water 
while  you  make  the  omelet:  When  this  is  ready  to  fold  over, 
cover  with  the  cooked  oysters,  fold,  and  turn  out  upon  a  very 
hot  dish. 

Clam  omelet  is  made  in  the  same  way. 

Baked  mushroom  omelet 

Peel  and  cut  into  quarters  a  dozen  fresh  mushrooms  and  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  pepper  and 
salt  to  taste,  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice.  Cover  the  pan  and 
simmer  slowly  for  ten  minutes.  Add  one  cupful  of  thickened 


84  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

chicken  or  veal  stock,  and  cook  slowly  ten  minutes  longer.  Then 
stir  in  six  eggs,  well-beaten,  turn  into  a  buttered  bake-dish,  sift 
browned  crumbs  over  the  top,  and  set  upon  the  upper  grating  of 
a  quick  oven  until  the  eggs  are  "set."  Five  minutes  should  be 
enough.  Serve  at  once  in  the  bake-dish. 

Daffodils 

Chop  the  whites  of  six  hard-boiled  eggs  fine,  then  run  through 
a  vegetable  press.  Have  ready  a  cup  of  drawn  butter,  seasoned 
with  pepper,  salt  and  onion  juice.  Mix  the  whites  with  this,  and 
keep  hot  over  boiling  water.  Have  ready  eight  rounds  of  toast, 
buttered  and  slightly  moistened  with  gravy — chicken,  veal  or 
turkey.  Arrange  on  a  hot  platter  and  cover  each  round  with  the 
white  mixture,  flattening  it  on  top. 

Run  the  yolks  through  the  press,  reducing  them  to  a  yellow 
powder,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  put  a  spoonful  in  the 
center  of  each  white  round. 

Nesting  eggs 

Boil  six  eggs  hard,  and  throw  into  cold  water.  When  cold, 
strip  off  the  whites  and  shred  them  into  long  straws.  Heat  a  flat 
dish — one  that  will  bear  fire — and  arrange  the  shreds  around 
the  inner  edge.  Have  ready  a  handful  of  celery  (shredded  like 
the  eggs),  which  has  been  stewed  tender  in  a  little  milk,  then  sea- 
soned. Lay  this  inside  of  the  lines  of  white  shavings,  and  put  a 
few  spoonfuls  of  melted  butter  over  both.  Set  in  the  oven  until 
very  hot. 

Pick  to  pieces  a  cupful  of  cold  boiled  or  baked  fish,  and  run 
the  yolks  of  the  eggs  through  the  colander  or  vegetable  press. 
Mix  with  the  fish,  moisten  with  drawn  butter,  and  mold  into 
egg-shaped  balls.  Dispose  these  neatly  within  the  "nest,"  and 
pour  over  them  a  cupful  of  drawn  butter  to  give  the  desired 
whiteness.  Shut  up  in  the  oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  get  them 
heated  through,  and  serve. 

This  is  a  less  elaborate  dish  than  would  seem  at  first  reading. 


DAFFODILS 


SCALLOPED  OYSTERS 


CHICKEN    OMELET 


EGGS  85 

If  you  have  stewed  celery  left  from  yesterday's  dinner,  and  cold 
fish,  the  rest  is  easy  enough. 

Chicken  or  other  meat  may  be  substituted  for  the  fish. 

Cheese  omelet 

Make  a  plain  omelet,  and  when  nearly  done,  strew  powdered 
Parmesan  cheese  over  it.  Fold,  transfer  to  a  hot  dish,  strew  more 
cheese  on  top,  and  hold  a  red-hot  shovel  near  enough  to  scorch  the 
cheese. 

Baked  souffle  of  eggs  (No.  1) 

Scald  a  cup  of  milk,  putting  in  a  tiny  pinch  of  soda.  Beat  the 
yolks  of  six  eggs  until  light  and  creamy,  and  the  whites  till  stiff 
enough  to  stand  alone.  Add  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  dash 
of  pepper  and  one  rounded  tablespoonful  of  butter  to  the  milk 
and  stir  it  into  the  yolks ;  then  beat  in  the  whites  very  quickly. 
Pour  into  a  deep,  buttered  pudding  dish  and  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  ten  minutes,  or  to  a  delicate  brown.  Serve  immediately  in 
the  bake-dish. 

Baked  eggs  souffle  (No.  2) 

Beat  six  eggs  light,  whites  and  yolks  separately.  Heat  one  cup- 
ful of  milk,  add  one  teaspoonful  of  corn-starch,  one-half  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  the  whipped  yolks  of  the  eggs.  Cook  in  a 
saucepan  until  as  thick  as  cream,  add  the  whites,  beaten  stiff,  put 
into  a  well-buttered  frying-pan,  set  in  a  hot  oven  and  bake  well 
until  browned  slightly,  then  slide  off  upon  a  hot  platter. 

Eggs  and  tomatoes 

Cook  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one  of  flour  together  in  a 
saucepan  until  smooth  and  hot.  Add  a  cupful  of  tomatoes, 
canned  or  raw,  chopped  fine,  and  strained  from  the  juice.  Season 
with  paprika,  celery  salt,  a  half  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  onion  juice.  Cook  five  minutes.  Have  ready  on  a 
bowl  six  eggs,  beaten— whites  and  yolks  together ;  take  the  sauce- 
pan from  the  fire  and  add  the  contents  gradually  to  the  eggs. 


86  MARION   HARLAND'S   COOK   BOOK 

Set  back  over  the  fire,  stir  for  one  minute,  or  until  the  eggs  are 
set,  and  serve  in  a  hot,  deep  dish. 

Olla  podrida  omelet 

Make  a  roux  of  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  the  same  of 
browned  flour  in  a  deep  frying-pan.  When  hissing  hot  stir  in 
one  cupful  of  canned  tomato,  one-half  cupful  of  canned  mush- 
rooms, sliced  fine,  the  same  quantity  of  minced  ham,  tongue  or 
chicken.  Season  with  onion  juice,  paprika  and  salt  to  taste.  Let 
it  simmer  five  or  eight  minutes,  then  stir  in  four  beaten  eggs. 
Stir  carefully  as  it  thickens,  and  when  the  eggs  are  set  serve  on 
buttered  toast. 

Scrambled  eggs  with  cheese 
(Contributed) 

Break  ten  eggs  and  slip  them  into  a  saucepan.  Beat  them  with 
one-fourth  of  a  pound  of  butter,  one-fourth  of  a  pound  of  grated 
cheese  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Butter  a  saucepan  and 
when  hot,  pour  in  the  mixture  and  allow  it  to  cook  for  five  min- 
utes over  a  light  fire,  stirring  all  the  while.  When  the  mixture 
becomes  quite  thick,  pour  into  a  deep  dish,  and  serve  with  fried 
toast. 

Scrambled  eggs  with  asparagus  tops 
(Contributed) 

Cut  the  tender  tops  of  asparagus  into  pieces  one-half  inch  long. 
Cook  them  in  salted  water  for  about  ten  minutes,  then  let  them 
drain.  Scramble  the  eggs  and  when  they  are  cooked  add  the 
asparagus  tops  and  serve  on  toast.  Lobsters,  cooked  and  cut  into 
dice,  may  be  substituted  for  the  asparagus  tops. 

Rice  omelet 

(Contributed) 

To  one  cupful  of  cold  boiled  rice  add  one  cupful  of  warm 
milk,  one  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  one  teaspoon ful  of  salt 


EGGS  87 

and  a  dash  of  pepper ;  mix  well  and  add  three  well-beaten  eggs. 
Heat  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan  and  when  hot 
pour  in  the  omelet  and  set  the  pan  in  a  hot  oven.  When  it  is 
thoroughly  cooked  fold  it  double,  turn  out  on  a  hot  dish  and 
serve  at  once. 

Fish  omelet 
(Contributed) 

Make  about  a  half  pint  of  white  roux,  add  a  piece  of  butter 
about  the  size  of  an  egg,  twelve  shelled  and  cooked  shrimps ;  sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper;  let  it  cook  for  two  or  three  minutes, 
stirring  all  the  time,  then  add  half  of  a  green  sweet  pepper, 
chopped  fine,  and  cook  for  one  minute.  Make  an  omelet  of  six 
eggs ;  when  brown,  turn  up  and  fill  with  this  mixture.  Serve  at 
once  on  a  hot  platter. 

Frizzled  beef  and  eggs 

(Contributed) 

To  every  half  pound  of  chipped  beef  allow  half  a  pint  of  milk, 
one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one  tablespoonful  of  flour.  Put 
the  butter  into  a  frying-pan ;  when  hot  add  the  beef  and  stir  for 
about  two  minutes,  or  until  the  butter  begins  to  brown,  then 
dredge  in  the  flour.  Stir  well,  add  the  milk  and  a  little  pepper, 
and  just  before  taking  from  the  fire  whip  in  two  well-beaten  eggs. 

Ham  omelet 

(Contributed) 

Make  an  omelet  in  the  usual  way;  pour  into  an  omelet  pan 
and  before  the  egg  sets  sprinkle  over  the  top  one  teacupful  of 
finely  minced,  cold,  cooked  ham. 

Egg  croquettes 

(Contributed) 

Cut  hard-boiled  eggs  into  one-quarter  inch  dice.  Add  one- 
fourth  as  many  chopped  mushrooms  and  turn  into  a  thick  white 


88  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

sauce.     When  cold,  mold  into  croquettes,  dip  into  egg,  then  in 
bread  crumbs  and  fry  in  deep  fat. 

Eggs  in  cases 

(Contributed) 

Make  little  paper  cases  of  buttered  writing  paper ;  put  a  small 
piece  of  butter  in  each  and  a  little  chopped  parsley  or  onion ; 
pepper  and  salt.  Put  the  cases  upon  a  gridiron  over  a  moderate 
fire  of  bright  coals,  and  when  the  butter  melts  break  a  fresh  egg 
into  each  case.  Strew  over  them  a  few  buttered  bread-crumbs, 
and  when  almost  done  glaze  the  tops  with  a  hot  shovel. 

Minced  eggs 

(Contributed) 

Chop  up,  but  not  too  fine,  four  or  five  hard-boiled  eggs.  Put 
over  the  fire,  in  a  saucepan,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  when 
it  begins  to  bubble,  stir  into  it  one  tablespoonful  of  flour;  cook 
one  minute,  then  add  one  cupful  of  hot  milk.  When  it  cooks 
thick  like  cream,  put  in  the  minced  eggs.  Stir  it  for  a  few 
minutes,  and  serve  garnished  with  sippets  of  toast. 

Scalloped  eggs 

(Contributed) 

Slice  in  rings  twelve  hard-boiled  eggs.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a 
well-buttered  baking  dish  with  fine  bread-crumbs ;  over  this 
put  a  layer  of  eggs,  some  small  pieces  of  butter  and  sprinkle 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Alternate  in  this  way  until  the  dish  is  filled, 
being  careful  to  have  bread-crumbs  on  top.  Add  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  rich  milk  or  cream  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Shirred  eggs 

Butter  small  "nappies"  and  drop  an  egg  carefully  into  each, 
taking  care  not  to  break  the  yolk.  Set  the  nappies  in  a  pan  of 
boiling  water  on  the  range,  and  cook  until  the  white  is  set.  Put 
on  each  egg  a  bit  of  butter,  and  a  dash  each  of  pepper  and  salt. 
Serve  at  once. 


FAMILIAR  TALK 

WHO  RULES  THE  HOME? 

THE  question  is  seldom  put  so  baldly.  Indulgent  husbands  yield 
the  point  in  verbal  gallantry.  Politic  wives  make  it  a  point  of 
conscience  and  etiquette  to  speak  of  their  husbands  as  owners 
of  house  and  contents  and  lawful  directors  in  all  pertaining 
thereunto.  At  heart,  the  complaisant  Benedict  knows  his  will  to 
be  potent,  if  not  supreme,  in  home  and  family.  The  wedded  Beat- 
rice is  secretly  conscious  that  she  can  wind  her  boastful  Benedict 
about  her  taper  finger,  and  he  will  not  suspect. 

An  old,  old  ballad,  warbled  with  sly  smiles  by  our  foremothers, 
thus  sums  up  her  view  of  the  matter : 

"  Now,  sisters,  since  we've  made  it  plain 

That  the  case  is  really  so, 
We'll  even  let  them  hold  the  rein, 
But  we'll  show  them  the  way  to  go  ! " 

Honest  John,  while  his  sinewy  fingers  feel  the  taut  rein  be- 
tween them,  believes  himself  master  of  the  situation.  He  pays 
for  house,  food  and  servants,  and  often  works  hard  for  the 
money  that  secures  these  for  his  family.  Upon  general  principles 
he  has  a  right  to  know  that  the  money  is  wisely  spent  and  hus- 
banded ;  a  right  to  be  well  lodged  and  fed  and  made  as  comfort- 
able when  at  home  as  his  means  will  allow.  If  he  sees  furniture 
abused,  food  badly — hence  unwholesomely — cooked,  and  needless 
waste  in  any  department,  he  has  an  unquestionable  right  to  direct 
his  wife's  attention  to  the  existing  state  of  things,  and  insist 
that  it  be  amended.  On  the  other  hand,  in  giving  his  wife  his 
name,  he  has  made  her  the  managing,  as  he  is  the  financial,  part- 
ner of  the  firm  matrimonial. 

She  is  not  his  hireling. 

89 


90  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Failure  to  comprehend  this  vital  truth  wrecks  the  happiness  of 
more  married  couples  than  incompatibility  of  temper,  fickleness 
and  intemperance,  all  put  together. 

A  reasonably  good  wife  earns  so  much  more  than  her  own 
living  that  the  surplus  ought  to  go  to  her  credit.  If  not  in 
money,  in  a  hundred  other  ways.  When  John  stoops  to  captious 
surveillance  of  her  methods,  and  personal  inspection  of  her  work, 
he  degrades  her  to  the  position  of  a  suspected  menial,  and  sinks 
his  manhood  into  Bettyishness.  "Bettyishness,"  according  to  lex- 
icographers, is  the  synonym  for  "womanishness,"  and  for  John 
to  be  "womanish"  is  to  be  unmanly ;  Mary  would  rather  have  him 
savage,  now  and  then. 

I  saw  a  spotless  reputation  discounted  the  other  day,  and  many 
rare,  amiable  traits  of  disposition  shrivel  as  waste  paper  in  the 
fire,  under  a  single  sarcastic  utterance  of  a  society  woman  who 
had  her  own  reasons  for  disliking  the  person  under  discussion. 

"Yes!"  she  said,  dubiously,  to  the  praise  an  elderly  matron 
had  given  an  excellent  son  and  brother.  "But,  then,  he  is  such 
a  ladylike  person !" 

The  epithet  was  apt.  Not  one  of  us  could  deny  it.  Every 
woman  present,  while  she  laughed,  would  have  preferred  to  have 
her  husband  called  a  brute. 

John  takes  ugly  risks  when  he  tempts  his  hitherto  loyal  spouse 
to  name  him  to  her  confidential  self  as  "Bettyish,"  "Miss  Nancy- 
ish"  or  a  "Mollycoddle."  They  all  mean  the  same  thing.  As  a 
sloven  he  may  be  forgiven  in  consideration  of  the  solid  manliness 
back  of  personal  carelessness.  We  wink  at  rusty  shoes,  and  col- 
lars awry,  and  tousled  hair,  and  missing  sleeve-links.  For  the 
same  reason  we  condone  crossness,  and  even  a  touch  of  savagery. 
When  he  comes  horhe  "in  a  temper,"  he  has  had  a  trying  day 
down  town,  or  he  is  hot,  or  headachy,  or  hungry.  Womanly  in- 
genuity is  set  to  work  to  soothe  down  the  inclement  mood,  and 
womanly  love  glides  to  the  front  with  the  mantle  of  tenderest 
charity  to  hide  the  fault  from  others,  and  put  it  out  of  our  own 
minds  when  it  is  past. 

I  know  a  man — squarely-built,  robust  and  keen-eyed — who 
carries  the  keys  of  the  store-room,  and  lends  them  to  his  wife  at 


FAMILIAR   TALK  91 

night  and  morning  to  give  out  the  supplies  needed  for  the  daily 
meals.  He  registers  in  day-book  and  ledger  every  pound  of  but- 
ter and  box  of  crackers  and  quart  of  vinegar  brought  into  the 
house,  with  the  date  of  purchase. 

I  knew  another  (who  ceased  from  his  labors  ten  years  ago), 
who  visited  kitchen,  pantries  and  store-room  several  times  every 
week  to  see  that  everything  was  clean  and  orderly.  He  used  to 
smell  milk-pans,  run  a  critical  finger  around  the  insidcs  of  kettles 
and  pots  and  inquire  into  the  destination  of  scraps — and  all  with- 
out a  blush  or  misgiving.  In  each  case  it  was,  of  course,  impos- 
sible to  keep  servants  who  could  get  any  other  place.  Wives 
belong  to  the  class  that  can  not  give  warning. 

If  either  of  these  men  would  have  tolerated  the  apparition  in 
his  counting-room  or  office,  at  stated,  or  irregular,  periods  of  his 
wife — bent  upon  inspection  of  accounts  and  sales,  the  clerks  un- 
dergoing examination,  or  standing  as  witnesses  of  his  humilia- 
tion— then  he  was  justified  to  his  conscience  for  his  policy  of 
home  rule. 

Mary  would  go  to  prison  for  her  John,  and  to  the  scaffold  with 
him.  She  springs  to  arms  in  his  defense  if  her  nearest  of  kin  dare 
to  intimate  that  he  is  not  the  pink  of  perfection  she  would  have 
them  believe.  His  grossest  eccentricities  are  graces  so  long  as 
they  are  masculine. 

But  let  him  prowl  into  the  pantry,  peep  into  the  bread-box, 
criticize  the  arrangement  or  derangement  of  china-shelves,  pull 
open  linen  drawers,  spy  out  dusty  rungs  of  chairs,  take  down, 
sort,  and  hang  in  better  order  the  contents  of  clothes-hooks  and 
hat-racks — and  he  may  shift  for  and  shield  himself.  With  lofty 
scorn  the  .wife  of  his  immaculate  shirt  bosom  leaves  him  to  the 
fate  he  deserves. 

In  which  course  there  is  some  reason  and  a  little  unreason. 
For  which  of  us  does  not  draw  upon  John's  sympathies  in  her 
domestic  distresses?  He  must  not  undertake  the  management  of 
Bridget,  or  Daphne,  or  Marie.  These  be  womanish  matters,  in 
which  a  man  should  not  intermeddle.  It  may  be  the  most  tem- 
perate of  suggestions,  such  as,  "My  dear,  I  don't  like  to  find 
fault,  but  if  you  would  speak  to  Margaret  about  meddling  with 


92          ..   MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

the  papers  upon  my  table  when  she  dusts  the  library?"  It  is  a 
distinct  trespass  upon  wifely  preserves.  Margaret  is  under  the 
protection  of  her  mistress'  wing.  The  interests  and  credit  of  the 
two  are  identical.  But  there  comes  a  day  when  the  league  snaps 
in  two,  like  scorched  twine.  The  maid  gives  warning,  and  com- 
pany is  expected,  and  the  mistress  "did  think  she  had  a  right  to 
expect  better  things  from  Margaret,  after  all  the  kindness  she 
has  shown  her  in  sickness  and  in  health,  and  the  excellent  wages 
she  has  given  her,  and  here,  at  the  most  inconvenient  time  she 
could  have  chosen,  the  creature  is  deserting  her !" 

Thus  runs  the  torrent  of  talk  into  the  ears  of  a  man  who 
left  a  much  worse  complication  behind  him  in  his  office  when 
he  set  his  face  toward  home  and  imaginary  peace.  Had  he 
found  fault  with  Margaret  a  week  ago,  he  would  have  been  a 
"Molly."  Should  he  withhold  sympathy  from  the  mistress  to-day, 
to  the  extent  of  commending  the  ingrate's  past  services,  and  won- 
dering if  there  may  not  be  possible  palliation  somewhere  for  her 
present  behavior — he  is  unfeeling,  and — ua  MAN  !"  When  a 
woman  brings  out  the  monosyllable  in  that  accent,  she  may  as 
well  go  a  semi-tone  higher  and  say,  "Monster !" 

To  be  explicit,  John  must  dance  when  his  spouse  puts  the  pipes 
to  her  lips,  and  not  presume  to  mourn  but  at  her  lamenting.  As 
her  sister,  my  sympathies  topple  dangerously  toward  her.  As  an 
impartial  chronicler  I  can  not  deny  that  much  may  be  said  in  his 
defense,  even  when  he  is  convicted  of  womanish  meddling.  He 
is  but  a  passenger  upon  the  domestic  craft  in  fair  weather,  a  pay- 
ing passenger,  who  is  expected,  nevertheless,  to  be  smilingly  con- 
tent with  his  accommodations,  to  eat  as  he  is  fed,  sleep  upon  the 
bed  as  it  is  made,  and  to  complain  of  nothing  until  the  sea  gets 
rough,  and  another  and  a  stout  hand  is  needed  on  deck  and  in 
the  rigging. 

The  principle  should  work  well  both  ways,  or  it  will  go  to 
pieces  of  its  own  weight. 


FISH  FOR  BREAKFAST 

A  modern  Peter  Magnus,  always  on  the  alert  for  coincidences, 
once  called  my  attention  to  the  singular  fitness  of  the  height  of 
the  fish  season  and  the  coming  of  Lent. 

"It  happens  uncommonly  convenient,  at  any  rate.  How  very, 
very  awkward  it  would 'be  if  there  were  no  fish  in  the  market 
just  when  the  Church  forbids  meat!"  prosed  my  interlocutor, 
whose  nationality  I  need  not  specify. 

I  might  have  replied,  had  there  been  any  hope  of  his  seeing 
the  point  of  the  story,  with  the  anecdote  of  one  of  his  country- 
men who  invited  me  to  view  the  total  eclipse  of  the  moon  through 
his  telescope,  and,  while  I  gazed,  remarked  upon  the  happy  acci- 
dent that  this  particular  eclipse  "had  taken  place  at  the  full  of 
the  moon." 

Dame  Nature  adjusts  kindly  and  cleverly  all  seasons  and  hap- 
penings to  the  need  of  her  children.  Fish,  easily  digested  and  rich 
in  phosphates,  are  in  their  delicious  prime  as  winter  suddenly  re- 
laxes her  hold  upon  our  world  and  our  systems.  We  needed  fats 
to  keep  up  animal  fats  in  cold  weather.  The  first  warmer  days 
ease  the  taut  running-gear  of  muscles,  nerves  and  digestive  ap- 
paratus. She  cries,  "  'Ware  meat !"  peremptorily.  However  deaf 
we  may  be  to  the  Church's  behest,  we  can  not  afford  to  disregard 
the  Great  Mother's. 

The  breaking  up  of  winter,  the  general  letting  down  of  phy- 
sical energies  and  the  abundant  supply  of  food  precisely  adapted 
to  the  season's  needs,  form  a  "coincidence"  that  the  most  stupid 
must  perceive.  The  like  principle  of  demand  and  supply  might, 
one  might  imagine,  be  recognized  in  the  matter  of  breakfast 
foods.  Fish,  rightly  cooked,  tempts  the  appetite  and  does  not 

93 


94  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

overload  the  stomach.  Another  recommendation  which  should 
have  weight  with  commuters  and  "hustlers,"  is  that  the  yielding 
fibers  require  less  strenuous  mastication  than  those  of  steaks, 
chops  and  rashers. 

The  truism  that  as  a  nation  we  are  inordinate  flesh-consumers 
is  tattered  by  much  wear.  Since  vegetarianism  comes  as  a  hard 
lesson  to  the  mass  of  our  race,  and  the  exacting  palate  demands 
more  definite  flavors  than  those  of  eggs  in  any  form,  resort  to 
crustacean  and  finny  delicacies  should  follow  as  a  matter  of 
course  and  of  common  sense. 

Shad 

Sturgeon  is  known  in  England  as  the  "Queen's  Own  Fish." 
Hiawatha  names  him  as  the  "King  of  Fishes."  The  American 
epicure  has  transferred  this  title  to  the  more  delicately  flavored 
salmon.  If  a  vote  of  native-born  gourmands  of  all  ranks  of 
society  were  taken,  I  think  the  shad  would  be  the  elect  favorite — 
the  dainty  queen  of  fishes,  the  more  royal  for  the  wealth  of  roes 
that  bespeak  her  prime. 

Planked  shad 

Have  your  fish  cleaned  and  split  down  the  back.  Wash  and 
wipe  dry.  Have  ready  a  clean  oak  or  hickory  plank,  about  two 
and  one-half  inches  in  thickness  and  of  such  a  length  that  it  will 
go  easily  into  your  oven.  Set  it  in  the  oven  until  it  is  heated 
through.  Rub  your  shad  on  both  sides  with  an  abundance  of  but- 
ter, and  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper.  Lay  it,  open  side  up,  on 
the  hot  plank  and  fasten  it  firmly  into  place  by  putting  a  tin  tack 
at  each  of  the  four  corners.  Lay  the  plank  on  the  upper  grating 
of  the  oven,  and  rub  the  fish  with  butter  every  few  minutes  until 
done.  You  can  tell  when  this  point  is  reached  by  testing  with  a 
fork.  Carefully  withdraw  the  tacks  and  slip  the  fish  upon  a  hot 
platter.  Serve  with  melted  butter,  and  garnish  with  slices  of 
lemon  and  sprigs  of  parsley. 

Broiled  shad  with  sauce  piquante 

Split  the  fish  down  the  back,  wash,  wipe  dry,  and  lay  it  open 
on  a  well-greased  gridiron.  Broil  over  clear  coals,  taking  care 


FISH    FOR   BREAKFAST  95 

to  turn  the  fish  often,  as  it  burns  easily.  If  the  shad  is  a  thick 
one  it  will  take  about  twenty  minutes  to  cook  thoroughly.  Re- 
move carefully  from  the  gridiron,  lay  on  a  hot  fish  platter,  but- 
ter well  and  sprinkle  with  pepper  and  salt.  Pass  with  the  fish  a 
sauce  made  in  the  following  manner : 

Rub  to  a  cream  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice.  Whip  into  this  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
finely  minced  parsley.  The  sauce  should  be  light  green  in  color. 
Keep  in  a  cold  place  until  time  to  serve  it  with  the  fish. 

Fried  shad 

Mrs.  S.  T.  Rorer,  whose  authority  on  culinary  counsels  few 
dare  dispute,  says :  "Shad,  being  rich  in  oils,  should  never  be 
fried." 

In  tide-water  Virginia,  where  shad  are  eaten  in  their  perfec- 
tion and  within  a  few  hours  after  they  are  drawn  from  the  river, 
frying  is  almost  popular  method  of  preparing  them.  Some  cooks 
there  rid  the  fish  of  all  suspicion  of  an  oily  taste  by  holding  it  up 
by  the  gills  and  pouring  a  pint  or  so  of  boiling  water  over  it. 
After  the  shower-bath  it  is  immediately  laid  in  ice  water  to  keep 
the  flesh  firm.  Then  have  the  shad  split  down  the  back,  and  cut 
each  half  of  the  fish  into  four  pieces.  Wash  quickly  and  wipe 
dry.  Roll  in  beaten  egg  and  cracker  crumbs,  lay  the  pieces,  side 
by  side,  on  a  platter  and  set  in  the  ice-box  for  two  hours.  Fry  to 
a  golden  brown  in  deep,  boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat.  Drain 
all  the  grease  off  in  a  colander ;  arrange  the  fish  in  neat  order  on 
a  folded  napkin  laid  in  the  bottom  of  a  fish  platter.  Garnish  with 
slices  of  lemon  and  sprigs  of  parsley.  Serve  Bechamel  sauce  with' 
the  fish. 

Shad  croquettes 

Flake  the  remains  of  yesterday's  fish  into  bits  with  a  silver  fork. 
There  should  be  about  a  cupful  of  the  picked  fish.  Cook  to- 
gether a  tablespoon ful  of  flour  and  one  of  butter  and  pour  upon 
them  a  cup  of  milk.  Stir  to  a  thick  sauce ;  pour  this  gradually 
upon  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  mix  well,  add  the  flaked  fish, 


96  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

season  to  taste,  and  turn  upon  a  platter  to  cool  and  stiffen.  When 
the  mixture  is  cold  and  firm  form  it  into  small  croquettes  and  roll 
these,  first  in  cracker  dust,  then  in  beaten  egg,  and  once  again  in 
cracker  dust.  Set  aside  in  a  cool  place  for  two  hours,  and  fry 
in  deep  boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat  brought  slowly  to  the  boil. 
Serve  with  sliced  lemon. 

Scalloped  shad 

Pick  cold  shad  into  bits,  removing  skin  and  bones.  Put  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  frying-pan  and  fry  a  sliced  onion  in 
this.  Remove  the  onion,  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  browned  flour, 
and,  when  this  is  blended  with  the  butter,  pour  upon  it  slowly  a 
cup  of  clear  beef-stock.  Stir  to  a  smooth  sauce,  season  with  pep- 
per and  salt,  a  very  little  kitchen  bouquet,  and  a  half-cup  of 
tomato  liquor.  When  smooth  and  as  thick  as  cream,  add  the  fish, 
stir  and  toss  for  a  moment  and  remove  from  the  fire.  Turn  into 
scallop  shells,  sprinkle  with  crumbs  and  bake,  covered,  for  twenty 
minutes ;  then  uncover  and  brown. 

Broiled  shad  roes 

Parboil  the  roes  in  salted  water  as  soon  as  they  are  taken  from 
the  fish.  Cook  ten  minutes  and  leave  in  ice  water  until  cold  and 
firm.  "Marinade"  them  in  bath  of  lemon  juice  and  salad  oil  for 
one  hour.  Wipe  lightly  and  broil  to  a  nice  brown,  turning  sev- 
eral times.  Pass  with  lemon  sauce. 

Fried  shad  roes 

Parboil  as  directed,  let  them  get  chilled  in  ice  water,  wipe  dry, 
roll  in  beaten  egg  and  salted  cracker  crumbs  and  fry  in  deep  hot 
cottolene  or  other  fat  heated  gradually  to  the  boiling  point  before 
the  roes  go  in. 

Scallops  of  shad  roes 

Parboil  and  blanch.  When  perfectly  cold  break  up  and  pass 
through  a  colander  or  vegetable  press.  Season  with  lemon  juice, 


FISH    FOR    BREAKFAST  97 

kitchen  bouquet,  paprika  and  salt.  Have  ready  a  cup  of  rich 
drawn  butter.  Stir  the  roes  into  it,  beat  up  well,  pour  into  scal- 
lop shells  or  pate-pans,  sift  fine  crumbs  over  the  top  and  bake 
quickly  upon  the  upper  grating  of  the  oven. 

Shad  roe  croquettes 

Proceed  as  with  the  scallops,  except  that  you  make  the  drawn 
butter  rather  thicker,  and  add  a  well-beaten  egg,  together  with  a 
tablespoonful  of  fine  crumbs,  to  give  the  croquettes  consistency. 
Let  the  mixture  get  perfectly  cold;  mold  into  croquettes,  roll  in 
egg  and  cracker  crumbs  and  leave  on  the  ice  over  night.  In  the 
morning  renew  the  crumbs  and  fry  in  deep  hissing  cottolene  or 
other  fat  which  has  been  brought  gradually  to  the  boil. 

Fried  smelts  with  lemon  sauce 

Clean,  wash  and  dry  the  smelts.  Roll  in  salted  and  peppered 
flour,  and  leave  in  a  cold  place  for  an  hour  to  get  firm.  Fry  in 
deep  cottolene  or  other  fat  to  a  light  brown,  laying  each  in  a  hot 
colander  as  you  take  it  from  the  pan,  to  drain  of!  the  grease. 
Serve  in  a  hot  dish.  A  pretty  way  of  serving  them  is  to  fringe 
several  thicknesses  of  white  tissue  paper  at  both  ends,  and  lay 
in  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  the  fringe  showing  beyond  the  heap  of 
fish.  Serve  with — 

Lemon  sauce 

Heat  (not  melt)  three  tablespoon fuls  of  butter  until  you  can 
beat  it  to  a  cream.  Whip  into  it  the  strained  juice  of  one  large 
or  two  small  lemons,  with  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  finely- 
minced  parsley.  It  should  be  like  a  light-green  cream  when 
done.  Fill  with  this  mixture  the  halves  of  lemons,  from  which 
all  the  pulp  and  inner  skin  have  been  scraped,  and  garnish  the 
dish  of  smelts  with  them,  serving  one  of  the  "cups"  with  each 
portion  of  fish. 


98  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Fried  trout 

Clean,  wipe  inside  and  out,  pepper  and  salt ;  roll  in  egg  and 
cracker  crumbs  and  fry  in  deep,  hot  cottolene  or  other  fat,  always 
recollecting  to  heat  this  gradually  to  boiling  point  before  the  fish 
go  in. 

Or,  having  cleaned  and  dried  them,  roll  in  salted  and  peppered 
meal ;  then  fry. 

Fried  perch  and  other  pan-fish 

Cook  as  directed  in  last  recipe.  It  is  always  well  to  have  the 
fish  on  ice  for  an  hour  or  more  after  they  are  egged  and  breaded, 
or  rolled  in  meal. 

Fish  cutlets 

Mince  cold  boiled  or  baked  salmon,  haddock,  cod,  or  any  other 
firm-fleshed  fish.  Season  to  taste  and  mix  well  with  a  little  rich 
drawn  butter,  made  quite  thick  with  corn  starch.  Spread  upon 
a  broad  platter,  and,  when  stiff,  cut  into  the  desired  shape  with 
a  tin  "form."  Roll  in  fine  crumbs,  then  in  egg  and  in  cracker 
crumbs  again  ;  leave  on  the  ice  to  get  firm,  and  fry  in  deep,  boiling 
cottolene  or  other  fat  which  has  been  heated  slowly. 


Lobster  and  crab  cutlets 
Are  made  in  the  same  way. 

Salmon  steaks 

Have  the  steaks  cut  nearly  an  inch  thick.  Wipe  with  a  damp 
cloth  and  lay  in  salad  oil  for  an  hour.  Drain  and  put  upon  a 
gridiron  over  a  clear  fire.  Broil  slowly,  rubbing  with  butter  from 
time  to  time.  They  will  take  at  least  twenty  minutes  to  cook, 
and  must  be  watched  carefully  that  they  do  not  scorch.  When 
done,  put  upon  each  steak  a  generous  lump  of  butter  and  sprinkle 
with  salt  and  pepper. 


FISH    FOR    BREAKFAST  99 

Salmon  loaf 

Flake  cold  boiled  salmon  and  moisten  it  with  a  gill  of  cream, 
a  half-gill  of  milk  and  two  beaten  eggs.  Stir  in  a  handful  of 
fine  crumbs,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  a  tablespoonful  of  butter, 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  minced  parsley. 
Mix  thoroughly,  turn  into  a  greased  pudding-dish,  and  bake  in 
a  steady  oven  for  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  then  turn  out 
upon  a  hot  platter.  Serve  with  a  white  sauce.  You  may  also 
boil  this  in  a  covered  mold. 


Salmon  croquettes 

With  a  silver  fork  flake  the  contents  of  a  can  of  salmon,  or 
two  pounds  of  fresh  salmon,  into  bits — removing  all  pieces  of 
skin  and  bone — and  season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  few 
drops  of  lemon  juice.  Cook  together  a  tablespoonful,  each,  of 
butter  and  flour,  and  when  they  bubble  pour  upon  them  a  cup  of 
milk.  Stir  to  a  smooth,  white  sauce,  add  slowly  a  raw  egg,  then 
turn  in  the  salmon  mixed  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  fine  crumbs. 
When  the  salmon  is  heated  remove  from  the  fire  and  set  aside  to 
cool.  When  cold,  form  into  croquettes,  roll  these  in  beaten  egg 
and  cracker  crumbs  and  set  in  the  ice-box  for  an  hour  before 
frying  in  deep,  boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat,  which  has  been 
heated  gradually. 

Scalloped  salmon 

With  a  silver  fork  pick  into  bits  the  contents  of  a  can  of 
salmon,  rejecting  all  particles  of  skin  and  bone.  Make  a  sauce 
of  a  half-pint  of.  milk,  thickened  with  a  white  roux,  and  turn  the 
salmon  into  this.  Stir  and  toss  over  the  fire  until  smoking-hot ; 
season  to  taste,  put  into  a  greased  pudding-dish.  Strew  thickly 
with  crumbs,  dot  with  bits  of  butter  and  bake  for  twenty  min- 
utes. 

Broiled  haddock 

Haddock  is  not  popular  among  "good  livers"  in  the  United 
States.  For  some  reason  it  is  ranked  as  a  second-hand  and 
plebeian  fish.  Yet  it  can  be  made  good  although  cheap. 


zoo  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Clean,  wash  and  wipe  well,  and  gash  the  back  with  a  sharp 
knife.  Then  "marinade"  as  you  would  his  patrician  brethren : 
i.  e.,  cover  him  with  salad  oil  and  vinegar,  or  lemon  juice,  and 
let  him  lie  in  the  bath  for  an  hour.  Wipe  and  broil,  turning 
when  half  done.  Transfer  to  a  hot  dish,  anoint  with  butter, 
lemon  and  chopped  parsley,  and  send  to  table. 

Haddock  fillets 

Two  pounds  of  what  the  cooks  call  "the  thick  of  the  fish"  will 
make  four  fillets,  about  four  inches  long  by  two  wide.  Skin 
each  piece  with  a  sharp  knife;  trim  into  shape  and  leave  in  a 
marinade  of  oil  and  vinegar  with  a  tablespoonful  of  minced 
chives,  or,  if  you  have  none,  a  tablespoonful  of  onion  juice. 
Let  the  fillets  lie  there  for  an  hour.  Then  drain  well,  roll  in  a 
good  batter,  afterward  in  fine  crumbs,  and  fry  in  deep,  boiling 
cottolene  or  other  fat.  Drain  upon  hot  tissue  paper,  and  send 
to  table  very  hot.  Send  around  tomato  sauce  with  it. 

Halibut  fillets 
May  be  cooked  in  the  same  way. 

Broiled  halibut  steak 

Rub  well  with  salad  oil  and  lemon  juice  on  both  sides,  wipe, 
and  broil  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  three  times.  Pepper  and  salt, 
lay  upon  a  hot  dish  and  butter  well.  Send  Bearnaise  sauce 
around  with  it.  (See  Sauces.) 

Fried  halibut  steaks 

Marinade  for  an  hourj  drain,  roll  in  salted  flour,  then  in  beaten 
egg,  lastly  in  salted  and  peppered  crumbs.  Leave  on  ice  for  an 
hour,  and  fry  in  clarified  dripping,  or  in  cottolene  or  other  fat. 


FISH 


FISH    FOR    BREAKFAST  101 

Fried  pickerel  with  cream  sauce 

Clean,  wash  and  wipe  dry.  Roll  in  white  cornmeal  or  in  flour, 
and  lay  aside  in  a  cold  place  while  you  fry  slices  of  fat  salt  pork 
quickly  almost  to  a  crisp.  Strain  the  fat  and  return  to  the  pan ; 
lay  in  the  fish  and  brown,  turning  once.  When  done,  remove  to 
a  heated,  covered  dish  and  keep  hot  over  boiling  water.  To  the 
fat  left  in  the  pan  add  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  a  little 
boiling  water ;  boil  up  and  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  flour.  When 
it  begins  to  bubble  add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  with  a  tiny 
pinch  of  soda.  Stir  until  smoking-hot,  and  strain  over  the  fish. 

Fried  catfish 

Skin  and  clean ;  lay  the  fish  in  very  cold  water  for  a  few  min- 
utes, then  wipe  them  dry.  Dredge  thoroughly  with  flour,  or  roll 
them  first  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  cracker  crumbs,  and  fry  to  a 
delicate  brown. 

Fried  frogs'  legs 

Have  them  carefully  skinned,  wash  well,  wipe  perfectly  dry, 
roll  in  cracker  or  bread  crumbs,  dip  in  well-beaten  egg,  then 
roll  again  in  the  crumbs  and  fry  in  butter  to  a  golden  brown. 

Fricassee  of  frogs'  legs 

Skin  and  wash  well,  drain ;  lay  in  boiling  water  for  five  min- 
utes. Put  over  the  fire  in  enough  warm  milk  to  cover  them  and 
simmer  until  tender.  Then  drain,  and  lay  in  a  hot  dish,  butter- 
ing well.  In  another  saucepan  make  drawn  butter,  using  milk 
instead  of  water ;  season  with  salt,  paprika  and  minced  parsley, 
with  a  dash  of  lemon  juice ;  remove  from  the  fire  and  stir  in  two 
well-beaten  eggs.  Cook  one  minute,  stirring  all  the  time,  and 
take  from  the  range.  Pour  over  the  frogs'  legs,  cover,  and  set 
over  hot  water  for  a  few  minutes  before  serving.  They  will  be 
found  delicious. 


102  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Stewed  frogs'  legs 

Skin  and  lay  in  a  marinade  of  lemon  juice  and  salad  oil,  with  a 
dash  of  onion  juice  or  of  minced  chives,  for  one  hour.  Heat  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
minced  onion,  one  minced  tomato  and  one  green  pepper  chopped 
fine.  Cook  for  five  minutes.  Add  the  frogs'  legs,  cover  closely 
and  cook  ten  minutes.  Add  a  little  browned  flour  and  cook  until 
tender.  Season  and  serve. 

Clams  on  toast 

Chop  a  dozen  clams  and  boil  them  for  five  minutes  in  their 
liquor ;  drain,  arid  add  to  them  two  tablespoonfuls  of  fine  crumbs, 
a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  a  gill  of 
milk  in  which  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  cornstarch  has  been  dis- 
solved. Stir  constantly  over  the  fire  until  the  mixture  boils, 
then  add  a  gill  of  cream ;  stir  for  a  moment  longer  and  pour  upon 
the  toast. 

Deviled  clams 

Slice  an  onion  and  fry  it  to  a  light  brown  in  a  large  spoonful 
of  butter.  Strain  out  the  onion  and  put  the  hot  butter  back  upon 
the  fire.  Chop  two  large  (peeled)  tomatoes  fine,  season  with 
salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  a  good  dash  of  paprika  and  the 
same  of  nutmeg.  Stir  into  the  hissing  butter ;  stir  for  three 
minutes,  and  add  a  teaspoonful  of  butter  rolled  in  half  as  much 
flour.  Have  ready  the  clams,  drained  and  chopped  fine,  and  mix 
them  with  the  butter  and  tomatoes.  Fill  buttered  scallop-shells, 
or  clam-shells,  or  a  buttered  pudding-dish  with  the  mixture ;  sift 
fine-crushed  cracker  over  all,  dropping  tiny  dabs  of  butter  on 
top,  and  cook  until  delicately  browned. 

Fried  clams 

Drain  the  clams  and  dry  them  by  laying  them  on  a  soft  napkin. 
Season  with  a  dust  of  paprika.  Beat  two  eggs  light  in  a  soup- 
plate  and  have  ready  in  another  deep  plate  an  abundance  of 


FISH    FOR   BREAKFAST  103 

cracker  crumbs.  Dip  each  clam  in  the  egg,  and  then  in  the 
crumbs,  until  thoroughly  coated.  Lay  side  by  side  on  a  large 
platter  and  set  in  a  cold  place  for  an  hour.  Fry  in  deep,  boiling 
cottolene  or  other  fat  to  a  golden  brown,  drain  in  a  colander, 
then  transfer  to  a  hot  platter.  Garnish  with  slices  of  lemon 
and  sprigs  of  parsley. 

Clam  scallop 

Drain  the  liquor  from  two  cupfuls  of  soft  clams  and  set  aside 
while  you  chop  the  clams  fine.  Moisten  two  cupfuls  of  cracker 
crumbs  with  equal  parts  of  clam  liquor  and  milk,  season  with 
paprika  and  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  and  lastly,  add 
three  beaten  eggs;  and  the  chopped  clams.  Mix  thoroughly,  and 
turn  into  a  greased  pudding-dish.  Bake  until  brown  and  serve 
from  the  dish  in  which  the  scallop  was  cooked. 


Clam  fritters 

Make  a  batter  of  a  pint  of  flour  sifted  twice  with  an  even  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking-powder  and  half  as  much  salt;  one  cup  of 
milk,  half  a  cup  of  clam  liquor  and  two  well-beaten  eggs.  Chop 
two  dozen  soft  clams  fine ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  to  the 
batter,  arid  drop  by  the  tablespoonful  into  deep,  boiling  cottolene 
or  other  fat  which  has  been  heated  slowly.  They  are  made  more 
digestible  and,  to  my  taste,  more  palatable  by  cooking  the  batter, 
as  you  do  griddle-cakes,  upon  a  soapstone  griddle. 

Fried  scallops 

Parboil  in  hot  salted  water  for  five  minutes;  drain  and  set 
them  upon  ice  to  get  cold  and  firm.  Roll  them  in  salted  flour, 
next  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  fine  crumbs.  Set  on  ice  for  half  an 
hour  and  fry  in  deep,  boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat,  which  has 
been  gradually  heated  to  the  boil. 


104  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Curried  scallops 

Stew  the  scallops  in  just  enough  oyster  liquor  to  cover  them. 
(Your  fish  merchant  will  give  you  all  the  oyster  liquor  you  want 
and  be  glad  to  get  rid  of  it.)  Bring  gradually  to  the  boil,  after 
which  cook  two  minutes.  Have  ready  in  another  vessel  a  roux 
made  by  stirring  into  a  great  spoonful  of  hissing  hot  butter  a 
tablespoonful  of  white  flour  and  a  teaspoonful  of  curry  powder. 
Add  to  these,  when  smooth  and  all  a-bubble,  the  hot  liquor  from 
the  scallops,  a  little  at  a  time,  keeping  the  spoon  busy  until  all  is 
in.  Lastly,  put  in  the  scallops ;  boil  one  minute  and  serve.  Gar- 
nish with  rice  croquettes,  serving  these  instead  of  plain  boiled 
rice.  Send  around  sliced  lemons  with  this  dish.  The  lovers 
of  scallops  will  enjoy  it. 

Soft-shelled  crabs 

Remove  the  fringe,  or  loose  shell,  from  each  side  of  the  crab, 
and  the  sandbag;  then  cut  off  the  eyes.  Wash  the  crabs  well, 
dry  and  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper  and  roll  in  flour.  Fry  in 
butter,  turning  frequently.  When  nicely  browned  they  are  done. 

Creamed  codfish 

Flake  cold  boiled  cod  into  bits  with  a  silver  fork.  Cook  to- 
gether a  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  one  of  butter,  and  pour  upon 
them  a  cup  of  milk.  Season  to  taste  and,  when  smooth,  stir  in 
the  flaked  fish.  Stir  and  toss  until  very  hot,  add  salt  and  pepper 
and  serve. 

Fish-balls 

If  salt  cod  be  used,  shred  it  finely  and  soak  six  hours.  Boil 
half  an  hour  and  let  it  cool.  Mash  potatoes  to  a  cream ;  allow 
half  as  much  potato  as  you  have  fish.  Mix  and  heat  by  setting 
in  a  pan  of  boiling  water  over  the  fire,  stirring  frequently.  When 
hot,  beat  in  an  egg,  whip  the  mixture  smooth ;  let  the  paste  get 
cold,  make  into  cakes  or  balls,  roll  in  flour  and  set  on  ice.  Of 
course,  this  should  be  done  over  night.  In  the  morning  fry  in 


FISH    FOR   BREAKFAST  105 

deep  boiling  beef  dripping,  clarified,  or  in  cottolene  or  other  fat. 
Cold  fresh  cod  makes  delicious  ''balls."  Proceed  as  with  the 
salt,  leaving  out  the  soaking,  and  salting  to  taste. 

Boiled  salt  mackerel 

Wash  and  go  all  over  the  fish  with  a  stiff  whisk  to  dislodge 
salt  crystals.  Put  on  to  soak  in  warm  water,  exchanging  this 
three  hours  later  for  warmer,  and  leave  all  night.  In  the  morn- 
ing cover  with  hot  water  and  set  at  the  side  of  the  range.  Half 
an  hour  before  breakfast  drain  and  put  into  boiling  water  to 
which  a  tablespoon ful  of  vinegar  has  been  added,  and  boil  gently 
for  twenty-five  minutes.  Drain  and  lay  upon  a  hot  dish.  Cover 
with  a  white  sauce  into  which  -a  finely-chopped  boiled  egg  has 
been  stirred,  and  serve.  You  may  substitute  tomato  sauce  for 
white,  if  you  like.  It  is  very  nice  when  milk  is  used  instead  of 
water  in  boiling  it. 

Broiled  salt  mackerel 

Soak  and  proceed  as  in  the  last  recipe.  Early  in  the  morning 
take  the  fish  from  the  hot  water,  cover  with  ice-cold  water  for  five 
minutes ;  wipe  dry,  "marinade"  in  olive  oil  and  lemon  juice  for 
half  an  hour,  drain  and  broil.  Serve  with  sauce  tartare. 

Fried  eels 

Skin,  clean  well,  taking  especial  heed  of  the  fat,  which  must 
be  removed  to  the  last  bit.  Cut  into  short  pieces,  marinade  in 
salad  oil  and  vinegar  for  an  hour ;  roll,  first  in  salted  flour,  then 
in  beaten  egg,  then  in  rolled  cracker,  and  fry  in  deep,  boiling 
cottolene  or  other  fat.  Drain,  dash  and  garnish  with  parsley 
and  lemon. 

Stewed  eels 

Skin  and  clean ;  cut  into  short  lengths,  lay  in  cold  water  for 
half  an  hour;  then  put  over  the  fire  in  cold  water,  just  enough 
to  cover  them,  and  cook  slowly  for  half  an  hour,  or  more,  ac- 
cording to  their  size.  A  large  eel  may  require  an  hour  to  make 


io6  MARION    HAKLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

it  tender.  Turn  off  the  water,  cover  the  eels  with  a  good  white 
sauce  seasoned  with  paprika,  onion  juice,  salt  and  minced  pars- 
ley; simmer  five  minutes  and  serve. 

Hoe  herring  (smoked) 

Soak  over  night  when  you  have  washed  it  well.  In  the  morn- 
ing lay  in  hot  water  for  half  an  hour,  then  in  ice-cold  water  for  ten 
minutes,  wipe  dry  and  grill  on  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire.  It  is 
most  appetizing.  Pass  corn  bread  with  it. 

Finnan  haddie 

Wash  the  fish  thoroughly,  leave  in  cold  water  for  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour,  then  lay  in  scalding  water  for  five  minutes. 
Wipe  very  dry,  rub  butter  and  lemon  juice  well  into  the  fiber  of 
the  fish  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire  for  fifteen  minutes.  Serve 
with  a  hot  butter  sauce,  or  with  sauce  tartare. 

Broiled  smoked  salmon 

Wash  a  piece  of  smoked  salmon  in  several  waters,  and  soak  it 
for  an  hour.  Cover  with  lukewarm  water  in  a  saucepan  and  sim- 
mer for  twenty  minutes.  Drain  and  wipe  very  dry,  then  broil  on 
a  buttered  gridiron  until  browned  on  both  sides.  Transfer  to  a 
hot  dish,  rub  with  butter,  sprinkle  lightly  with  pepper  and 
minced  parsley,  garnish  with  sliced  lemon,  and  serve. 

Fried  smoked  salmon 

Wash,  soak  and  parboil  the  salmon  as  in  the  former  recipe. 
Wipe  very  dry,  roll  in  egg  and  cracker  dust,  and  set  in  a  cold 
place  for  an  hour  before  frying  in  hot  salad  oil  or  in  cottolene  or 
other  fat.  Serve  with  sauce  tartare. 


FAMILIAR  TALK 


WHERE    WE    EAT 

eat  to  live ;  we  do  not  live  to  eat,"  is  a  time-stained  say- 
ing. It  is  almost  invariably  uttered  complacently,  and  seldom 
in  absolute  sincerity.  There  is  something  wrong,  physically, 
with  the  man  who  "does  not  care  what  he  eats."  There  is  a  twist 
in  the  moral  make-up  of  the  woman  who  finds  catering  for  the 
appetites  of  those  she  loves  "a  wretched  bore,  don't  you  know  ?" 

Next  in  importance  to  the  "house-place"  in  the  estimation  of 
the  wise  and  tender  mother  of  the  home  comes  the  dining-room 
where,  three  times  a  day,  she  has  her  brood  under  the  wings  .of 
her  comforting,  provident  and  nourishing  love.  Whatever  may 
be  said  as  to  the  merits  of  the  "food  products"  that  fly  at  the 
masthead  of  the  company  the  motto — "Tell  me  what  you  eat, 
and  I  will  tell  you  what  you  are" — there  is  a  potent  grain  of  truth 
in  the  legend. 

So  much  of  a  man's  temper  and  morals  during  the  day  de- 
pends upon  what  he  has  had  for  breakfast  that  the  mother  may 
well  give  serious  thought  to  the  composition  of  the  meal.  So 
much  depends  upon  where  and  how  he  eats  his  breakfast,  that 
the  wonder  grows  in  the  philosophic  mind  that  the  eating-room 
and  the  appurtenances  thereof  are  a  third-rate  consideration  with 
so  many  otherwise  excellent  managers. 

The  housemother  who  can  let  sunshine  into  the  morning  meet- 
ing-place of  the  family  scores  an  important  point  in  favor  of  the 
success  of  her  pious  scheme.  Since  this  can  not  always  be,  her 
aim  should  be  to  simulate  the  blessed  sunbeams  as  far  as  she  can. 
Walls  of  pale  buff,  the  flash  of  a  gilt  frame  here,  and  a  bit  of 
bright  drapery  there ;  yellow  silk  sash  curtains,  and,  on  the  side- 

107 


io8  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

board,  the  glitter  of  silver  and  glass  will  go  far  to  relieve  the 
depressing  influence  of  an  apartment  where  the  sun  never  falls. 

Thanks  to  the  ingenious  florist  whose  name  is  preserved  in  the 
"Wardian  case,"  it  is  quite  possible  to  have  a  window-garden  in 
the  dining-room  on  the  shady  side  of  the  house.  A  stanch 
framework  of  wood,  filled  in  with  glass  on  the  sides  and  on  the 
hinged  top,  with  a  zinc-lined  bottom  on  which  are  spread  first  a 
layer  of  broken  flower-pots  or  other  crockery,  mixed  with  char- 
coal, and  on  this  a  stratum,  two  inches  deep,  of  garden  mold, 
supply  the  foundation  for  the  undertaking. 

Stock  with  ferns,  tradescantia,  English  and  German  ivy,  fill 
the  spaces  between  the  roots  with  moss,  water  well,  and  close. 
Your  gardening  is  done  for  the  season,  except  that,  once  a  day — 
say  while  you  are  at  breakfast — the  lid  is  raised  a  little  way  to 
admit  a  supply  of  air,  and  once  in  a  fortnight  it  would  be  well 
to  water  the  plants.  Shield  from  the  sun,  which,  striking 
through  the  closed  glass,  would  scald  the  succulent  greenery  that 
will  soon  fill  the  case.  Hang  the  canary's  cage  above  it  for  an 
added  touch  of  cheer. 

Always  have  flowers  upon  the  family  table.  A  pot  of  ivy,  a 
geranium,  a  fern  borrowed  from  some  other  room  at  meal  times, 
will  serve  the  desired  end  if  you  can  not  afford  cut  flowers  in 
winter.  If  you  have  no  window  plants,  manage  to  get  a  vase  of 
evergreen  sprays — something  to  lift  the  gracious  ceremonial  of 
eating  together  above  the  sordid  commonplace.  If  you  "eat  to 
live,"  let  that  living  be  comely  and  pleasant. 

There  is  no  excuse  nowadays  for  setting  a  table  with  coarse, 
thick  stoneware,  even  when  there  is  no  "company"  (hateful 
phrase !)  present.  Graceful  designs  may  be  had  in  ware  so 
cheap  as  to  be  within  the  reach  of  any  woman  who  can  spread 
a  table  of  her  own. 

In  the  matter  of  napery,  modern  fashion  comes  benevolently 
to  the  help  of  the  poor  in  purse.  Have  the  top  of  your  table 
polished  with  a  mixture  of  raw  linseed  oil  and  turpentine — three 
parts  of  oil,  one  of  turpentine — rubbed  in  long  and  well.  Then 
set  for  breakfast  and  for  luncheon  with  a  linen  square — embroid- 
ered or  simply  hemstitched — laid  diagonally  to  the  table  corners, 


FAMILIAR   TALK  109 

in  the  middle,  with  doilies  of  the  same  under  the  plates ;  a  carv- 
ing-cloth before  the  master  of  the  house,  and  a  tray-cloth  before 
the  mistress.  The  effect  is  pleasing  and  decorative,  the  more 
agreeable  to  the  housewifely  eye  because  the  weekly  wash  is  ma- 
terially lessened  thereby. 

If  your  table  has  not  a  polished  top,  you  would  better  have  for 
breakfast  and  luncheon  one  of  the  pretty  colored  lunch-cloths 
with  napkins  to  match,  which  come  in  divers  patterns  and  at 
varying  prices. 

If  your  china-closets  are  insufficient  to  hold  all  your  china,  and 
especially  if  the  walls  of  the  room  are  ungracefully  bare,  run  a 
shelf  a  foot  wide  near  the  ceiling  and  set  in  graceful  array  upon 
it  some  of  your  pretty  and  odd  pieces.  The  device  elevates  them 
to  the  dignity  of  bric-a-brac,  relieves  the  burdened  closet  shelves 
and  produces  a  frieze-like  effect  that  will  further  detract  from 
the  business-like  look  of  the  apartment. 

Tax  your  ingenuity  in  every  way  to  make  the  place  tempting 
to  eye  and  to  thought,  as  well  as  to  appetite.  A  place  where  one 
is  disposed  to  linger  over  one's  meals  for  social  converse  and 
social  enjoyment,  instead  of  bolting  food  in  hungry  silence,  pre- 
paratory to  bolting  from  the  place  he  calls  "home,"  through  cus- 
tom and  courtesy,  to  return  not  until  the  approach  of  the  next 
feeding  time. 


BREAKFAST  MEATS 

BREAKFAST   BACON 

MRS.  MARY  J.  LINCOLN — than  whom  there  is  not  a  more 
trustworthy  authority  upon  everything  pertaining  to  cookery- 
says  in  a  sprightly  chapter  upon  breakfast  bacon : 

"It  has  been  offered  me  frequently  in  thick  slices,  swimming 
in  grease,  browned  almost  to  blackness,  and  salt  as  the  briny 
waves.  You  will  seldom  find  a  market-man  who  will  take  the 
time  and  pains  to  slice  it  as  thin  as  it  should  be,  even  though 
they  are  supposed  to  have  knives  especially  adapted  for  thin 
slicing.  For  that  reason  I  prefer  always  to  buy  it  by  the  strip, 
and  slice  it  as  needed. 

"With  a  strong,  sharp  knife,  begin  at  one  end,  trim  off  the 
outside  strip  of  lean,  the  smoked  edges  and  the  rind,  down  about 
three  or  four  inches;  then  shave  off  in  thinnest  possible 
slices,  as  thin  as  can  be  cut,  and  have  them  whole.  When  you 
come  to  the  rind,  trim  off  more  of  it  if  more  slices  are  needed. 
Some  prefer  to  turn  the  strip  over  and  slice  from  the  lower  side 
down  to  the  rind,  but  not  dividing  from  the  rind  until  sufficient 
is  sliced.  But  whichever  way  you  do  it,  keep  the  strip  entire — 
that  is,  do  not  cut  off  three  inches,  or  half  a  pound,  and  then 
trim  and  slice  that  amount,  for  the  last  slice  will  be  quite  diffi- 
cult to  hold  firmly  enough  to  slice  uniformly. 

"It  can  be  cut  thin  much  easier  if  very  cold.  By  wrapping 
it  securely  in  thick  brown  paper  and  changing  the  paper  fre- 
quently, it  may  be  kept  in  the  refrigerator  without  affecting  the 
other  food. 

"Have  a  smooth  frying-pan  hot,  and  everything  else  ready. 
Lay  in  the  bacon  and  turn  it  frequently  as  it  changes  to  the 
transparent  stage,  moving  it  about  so  all  portions  will  cook 

no 


BREAKFAST    MEATS  in 

equally.  The  heat  should  be  sufficient  to  cook  it  quickly,  but 
not  to  brown  it.  As  soon  as  it  loses  the  transparent  appearance 
and  begins  to  crisp,  draw  it  from  the  liquid  fat  toward  the  edge, 
and  you  will  soon  tell  by  the  way  it  dries  off  and  the  sound 
whether  it  is  cooked  enough  to  be  crisp. 

"Tilt  the  pan  so  the  fat  will  run  down  away  from  the  bacon, 
and  let  it  drain  thoroughly  in  the  pan.  By  watching  and  turn- 
ing it  carefully,  every  piece  will  be  of  a  uniform  light  and  color, 
more  or  less  curly,  crisp  as  a  Saratoga  potato,  and  so  dry  and 
free  from  grease  that  it  might  be  picked  up  with  gloved  fingers 
and  leave  no  stain. 

"It  is  less  likely  to  brown  when  a  little  of  the  fat  from  a  pre- 
vious frying,  or  a  bit  of  lard,  is  put  in  the  pan  first,  as  this  keeps 
the  bacon  from  sticking  to  the  pan." 

I  seldom  borrow  a  recipe,  for  two  reasons:  First,  because  I 
have  a  few  old-fashioned  prejudices  as  to  the  rights  of  pro- 
prietorship in  such  products ;  secondly,  because,  to  be  frank,  I 
seldom  find  one  upon  which  I  think  I  could  not  improve  in  the 
matter  of  simplicity  and  directness.  I  could  not  write  out  more 
clearly  my  ideas  on  the  subject  of  cutting  and  cooking  breakfast 
bacon  than  my  distinguished  fellow-laborer  has  expressed  them. 
I  hereby  grant  her  permission  to  honor  me  by  abstracting  the 
same  number  of  words  from  any  of  my  printed  pages. 

Bacon  and  apples 

This  is  a  favorite  southern  dish,  and  good  enough  to  be  trans- 
planted. 

Slice  bacon  thin  and  fry  it  crisp.  Transfer  to  a  platter  and 
keep  it  hot  while  you  fry  thick  slices  of  unpeeled  sweet  apples 
in  the  bacon  fat.  When  these  are  tender,  drain  and  put  in  the 
center  of  a  hot  platter.  Lay  the  fried  bacon  about  the  edge  of 
the  dish,  sprinkle  sugar  over  the  apples,  and  serve. 

Bacon  and  polenta 

Wet  a  cupful  of  fine  Indian  meal  with  two  cupfuls  of  cold 
water  and  stir  it  into  a  quart  of  boiling  water.  Add  a  teaspoon- 


ii2  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

ful  of  salt,  beat  up  hard,  and  let  it  cook  steadily  for  two  hours, 
stirring  up  often  to  prevent  lumping.  Should  it  thicken  too 
much,  add  boiling  water. 

When  done,  pour  out  into  a  broad  platter  and  set  aside  until 
perfectly  cold  and  stiff.  If  you  are  to  have  it  for  breakfast,  cook 
it  over  night.  Cut  in  squares,  triangles  or  rounds,  roll  in  raw 
meal  (salted),  and  fry  in  plenty  of  boiling  dripping  or  cottolene 
or  other  fat  to  a  delicate  brown.  As  each  piece  is  done,  transfer 
to  a  hot  colander  to  drain.  Serve  in  the  center  of  a  hot  dish, 
with  thin  slices  of  fried  bacon  laid  about  it. 

A  pretty  way  of  varying  a  plain  but  excellent  dish  is  to  pour 
the  hot  polenta  into  fancy  molds  wet  with  cold  water,  leaving 
it  there  until  you  are  ready  to  cook  it,  when  turn  out  and  fry. 

Bacon  and  sweet  peppers 

Cut  the  stem  ends  from  green  sweet  peppers,  handling  very 
cautiously,  lest  the  seeds  should  touch  the  walls  of  the  peppers 
and  make  them  "hot."  With  a  small  sharp  knife  extract  core 
and  seeds  and  throw  them  away.  Cut  the  peppers  into  rings, 
lay  in  ice-cold  water  slightly  salted  for  half  an  hour.  Fry  sliced 
bacon  in  a  clean  pan,  take  up  and  keep  hot.  Dry  the  peppers  by 
patting  between  two  clean  cloths  and  fry  until  clear  and  tender 
in  the  fat  left  in  the  pan.  Arrange  the  peppers  in  the  center  of  a 
hot  dish,  the  bacon  around  them. 

Barbecued  ham 

Fry  slices  of  cold  boiled  ham  on  both  sides.  Transfer  to  a 
hot  dish.  Cook  together  in  a  frying-pan  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
vinegar,  a  teaspoonful  of  granulated  sugar,  a  teaspoonful  of 
French  mustard,  and  a  dash  of  paprika.  Stir  until  very  hot  and 
pour  over  the  fried  ham.  If  raw  ham  be  used,  cook  for  fifteen 
minutes  in  a  frying-pan  in  boiling  water  to  which  has  been  added 
a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar;  lay  in  cold  water  for  ten  minutes, 
wipe  dry  and  fry  as  directed. 


BREAKFAST    MEATS  113 

Home-made  sausages 

Grind  in  a  sausage-mill  or  meat-chopper  six  pounds  of  lean, 
fresh  pork  and  three  pounds  of  fat.  Mix  with  this  twelve  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  sage,  six,  each,  of  black  pepper  and  of 
salt,  two  teaspoonfuls,  each,  of  ground  cloves  and  of  mace,  and 
one  nutmeg,  grated.  When  the  seasoning  is  well  mixed  with 
the  meat,  pack  all  down  in  stone  jars  and  pour  melted  cottolene 
or  other  fat  on  top  to  exclude  the  air,  or  put  into  long-  bags  of 
stout  muslin.  Dip  these  in  melted  grease  and  hang  in  the  cellar. 

They  may  be  made  in  small  quantities  and  used  at  once,  and 
are  much  better  than  those  we  buy  in  market  or  shop, 


Sausages  and  apples 

Lay  the  sausages  ("bulk  sausage  meat"  is  best)  in  a  frying- 
pan,  cover  with  hot  water  and  bring  quickly  to  a  fast  boil.  At 
the  end  of  five  minutes  pour  off  the  water  and  fry  on  both  sides, 
turning  twice.  Lift  them,  drain  over  the  pan,  and  lay  in  a  hot 
colander  in  the  open  oven,  while  you  fry  sliced  and  cored  apples 
in  the  fat  that  ran  from  the  sausages  in  frying. 

If  you  use  link  sausage,  prick  each  before  boiling. 

"Frankfurters" 

Cover  with  boiling  water  and  boil  slowly  until  they  rise  to  the 
surface  of  the  water.  Drain  and  rub  over  with  a  mixture  of  but- 
ter, lemon  juice  and  made  mustard. 

Broiled  pork  chops 

Are  too  heavy  as  breakfast  food  for  any  stomach  save  that  of 
a  hod-carrier  or  ditcher.  But  people  will  eat  them  in  the  "kill- 
ing" season,  and  should  have  them  properly  cooked. 

Trim  away  the  fat  and  the  skin  from  the  small  end ;  broil  over 


ii4  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

clear  coals,  and  thoroughly,  for  fear  of  trichinae.     Pepper  and  salt 
to  taste.     Send  around  tomato  catsup  with  them. 
Cutlets  and  spare-ribs  are  cooked  in  like  manner. 

Curried  pork  cutlets 

Broil  as  in  foregoing  recipe  and  keep  hot  (covered)  over  boil- 
ing water.  Heat  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and 
as  soon  as  it  hisses  fry  in  it  a  tablespoonful  of  minced  onion. 
When  the  onion  has  browned,  strain  it  from  the  fat,  return  the 
latter  to  the  pan,  and  pour  in  a  cupful  of  boiling  water,  with  half 
a  cupful  of  apple  sauce.  Stir  while  it  simmers  for  ten  min- 
utes. Cook  two  minutes,  and  pour  over  the  chops.  Leave  cov- 
ered in  the  oven  for  five  minutes  and  serve. 

TRIPE 

A  much-maligned  article,  meet  for  good  men's  tables.  It  is 
despised  and  set  at  naught  by  people  who  should  know  better, 
because  it  is  rarely  cooked  daintily.  At  its  proper  estate  under 
the  hands  of  a  cook  who  recognizes  its  real  worth  it  is  said  to  be 
both  nourishing  and  digestible.  It  is  certainly  palatable,  if  ten- 
der and  properly  prepared.  Buy  from  your  butcher  the  pre- 
pared tripe — that  is,  tripe  which  has  been  thoroughly  cleaned  and 
is  ready  for  boiling.  No  matter  how  you  intend  to  cook  it,  boil 
it  first. 

Boiled  tripe 

Lay  the  tripe  in  a  saucepan  and  cover  with  cold  water.  Set 
at  the  side  of  the  range,  where  it  will  come  slowly  to  a  boil,  and 
simmer  steadily  for  at  least  four  hours.  Drain,  and  set  in  a  cool 
place  until  wanted. 

Stewed  tripe 

Cook  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  but  cut  the  tripe  in  half-inch 
squares.  At  the  end  of  four  hours  drain  off  all  the  water  except 
a  gill ;  add  to  this  a  cup  of  stewed  and  strained  tomatoes,  a  dash 
of  onion  juice,  salt  to  taste  and  a  pinch  of  paprika.  Rub  to- 


BREAKFAST    MEATS  115 

gather  a  heaping  teaspoonful,  each,  of  butter  and  flour,  and  stir 
into  the  tripe  mixture.  Stir  until  the  sauce  is  smooth  and  thick. 
Some  persons  like  a  teaspoonful  of  Parmesan  cheese  added  to 
this  stew  just  before  it  is  served. 

Fried  tripe 

Lay  cold,  boiled  tripe  in  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  salad  oil 
and  vinegar  for  two  hours.  Drain  in  a  colander  for  fifteen  min- 
utes. Dip  in  egg,  then  in  cracker  crumbs,  and  set  in  a  cold 
place  for  several  hours.  Saute  in  a  frying-pan  to  a  light  brown. 

Or  you  may  dip  squares  of  cold  boiled  tripe1  into  good  fritter 
batter  and  fry  in  deep  cottolene  or  other  fat.  When  done,  drain 
free  of  grease  and  serve  with  a  sauce  made  according  to  the  fol- 
lowing recipe : 

Into  the  yolk  of  an  egg  beat  very  slowly,  a  few  drops  at  a  time, 
a  half-cup  of  salad  oil.  When  as  thick  and  smooth  as  cream 
add,  still  slowly,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  a  coffeespoonful 
of  French  mustard,  a  tablespoonful  of  minced  parsley  and  salt 
and  paprika  to  taste. 

Stewed  tripe  and  oysters 

Drop  three  dozen  oysters  into  their  boiling  liquor,  cook  for 
just  one  minute,  and  drain.  Cut  cold  boiled  tripe  into  pieces  of 
uniform  size.  Put  it  over  the  fire  with  enough  water  to  cover 
it  and  simmer  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Drain  off  the 
water.  Have  ready  a  pint  of  fresh,  scalding  milk  in  a  double 
boiler  and  drop  the  tripe  into  this.  Cook  for  fifteen  minutes ; 
add  two  teaspoonfuls  of  flour  rubbed  into  the  same  quantity  of 
butter,  and  stir  until  smooth  and  thick.  Season  to  taste,  add  the 
oysters  and  cook  until  they  are  heated  through.  Last  of  all,  stir 
in  very  slowly  one  beaten  egg,  and  remove  at  once  from  the  fire. 

Stewed  tripe  and  celery 

Cut  into  inch  pieces  enough  celery  to  make  a  cupful,  and  stew 
tender  in  salted,  boiling  water.  Drain  and  set  aside  while  you 


ii6  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

stew  the  tripe,  first  in  water,  then  in  milk,  as  in  the  recipe  for 
tripe  and  oysters.  Instead  of  adding  the  oysters  to  the  thickened 
milk,  stir  in  the  stewed  celery,  and  cook  for  a  minute  before 
serving. 

BEEFSTEAK 

Rub  the  hot  gridiron  with  a  bit  of  suet  before  you  lay  the  steak 
upon  it.  The  fire  should  be  clear  and  hot,  and  yourself  at  leisure 
to  watch  and  to  turn  quickly  when  the  meat  begins  to  drip. 
There  are  houses  in  which  a  flavor  of  creosote  would  seem  to  be 
inseparable  from  a  broiled  steak.  Turn  swiftly  to  keep  the 
smoke  from  it,  and  the  juices  in.  Try  with  the  point  of  a  keen 
knife  at  the  end  of  ten  minutes.  If  the  center  of  the  steak  be 
ruddy,  and  not  purple,  and  the  outside  of  a  fine  brown,  it  is  done, 
ftemove  to  a  hot  platter,  pepper  and  salt  and  butter  well  on  both 
sides.  Fit  a  close  cover  on  the  dish  and  set  in  the  open  oven  for 
five  minutes  to  draw  the  juices  to  the  surface. 

Beefsteak  with  onions 

Cook  as  just  directed.  Have  ready  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
minced  onions,  cooked  for  five  minutes  in  hot  butter.  They 
should  be  tender  and  clear,  but  not  crisp.  After  the  steak  is 
dished  spread  the  hot  onion  thickly  over  it,  let  it  stand  in  the 
open  oven,  with  a  close  cover  over  it,  five  minutes. 

Chateaubriand  steak 

Broil  a  neatly-trimmed  tenderloin  steak,  transfer  to  a  hot  dish, 
butter  generously  and  cover  with  broiled  mushrooms  cut  into 
quarters. 

Hamburg  steaks 

Chop  a  pound  of  lean  beef  very  fine,  and  stir  into  it  a  beaten 
egg,  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  a 
pinch  of  mace.  Mix  well,  mold  into  flat  cakes,  dredge  with 
salted  flour,  set  on  the  ice  for  an  hour,  roll  again  in  flour,  and 
saute  in  good  dripping  or  butter. 


BREAKFAST    MEATS  117 

Chilli  con  carni  (No.  1) 
(A  Mexican  dish.) 

Beefsteak  (round),  one  tablespoonful  of  hot  dripping,  two 
large  red  peppers  (dry),  two  tablespoonfuls  of  rice,  one-half  pint 
of  boiling  water,  salt,  onions,  flour. 

Cut  steaks  into  small  pieces.  Put  into  a  frying-pan  with  hot 
dripping,  hot  water  and  rice.  Cover  closely,  and  cook  steadily 
until  tender.  Remove  seeds  and  part  of  rind  from  red  peppers. 
Cover  with  the  chilli  water,  add  garlic  and  thyme.  Simmer  until 
cold,  then  squeeze  them  in  the  hand  until  the  water  is  thick  and 
red.  If  not  thick  enough,  add  a  little  flour.  Season  with  salt 
and  a  little  onion  if  desired.  Heat  and  pour  sauce  on  the  meat. 
Serve  very  hot. 

Chilli  con  carni  (No.  2) 

Provide  for  it  two  pounds  of  steak,  six  red  chillies,  two  cloves, 
one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  a  little  garlic,  thyme,  dripping. 
Seed  the  chillies  and  cover  with  boiling  water.  Soak  until  tender 
and  then  scrape  the  pulp  into  water.  Cut  steak  in  small  pieces 
and  fry  brown  in  dripping  or  butter;  add  flour  and  brown  it. 
Cover  with  the  chilli  water,  add  garlic  and  thyme.  Simmer  until 
the  meat  is  tender  and  the  gravy  of  the  right  consistency. 

Beef  cakes 

Scrape  round  steak,  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper ;  form 
with  the  hands  into  small,  flat  cakes  and  broil  over  a  quick  fire. 

Stew  of  beef's  liver 

Cut  one  pound  of  liver  into  slices.  Chop  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  fat  salt  pork.  Spread  a  layer  of  the  pork  in  the  bottom  of 
the  inside  kettle  of  a  double  boiler.  Cover  the  pork  with  slices 
of  liver,  sprinkle  this  with  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  minced  onion 
and  parsley,  add  more  pork,  more  liver,  onion  and  parsley  until 
all  the  ingredients  are  in  the  pot.  As  you  do  this,  sprinkle  each 


u8  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

layer  lightly  with  pepper.  Pour  a  half-pint  of  seasoned  weak 
stock  over  all,  cover  the  pot  closely  and  keep  the  water  in  the 
outer  pot  at  a  gentle  boil  for  two  hours  and  a  half.  Now  strain 
out  the  meat  and  keep  hot  while  you  return  the  gravy  in  the  pot 
to  the  fire  and  thicken  it  with  a  brown  roux.  Boil  up  once  and 
pour  the  gravy  over  the  liver. 


KIDNEYS 

First  of  all,  they  must  be  perfectly  fresh.  If  not,  they  have  an 
odor,  and  a  peculiar  "tang"  that  the  unfortunate  eater  never  for- 
gets, and  which  causes  him  to  feel  an  aversion  for  kidneys  hence- 
forth and  forever.  Care  should  also  be  exercised  in  removing  all 
bits  of  fat  and  gristle.  Last  of  all,  cook  the  kidneys  in  a  savory 
way  and  spare  no  pains  to  make  them  appetizing. 

Brown  stew  of  kidneys 

Split  the  kidneys,  wash  them,  drain  and  cut  into  small  pieces 
of  uniform  size.  Pour  cold  water  over  these  and  set  at  the  side 
of  the  range,  where  they  will  come  slowly  to  a  boil.  Just  before 
the  boiling  point  is  reached  turn  off  the  hot  water,  substitute  cold, 
and  bring  to  the  boil.  Drain  the  kidneys  and  keep  them  hot 
while  you  cook  together  a  tablespoonful  of  browned  flour  and 
the  same  quantity  of  butter.  When  these  are  blended  pour  upon 
them  a  scant  teacupful  of  salted  boiling  water,  and  stir  until 
thick  and  smooth.  Now  add  salt  and  pepper,  a  teaspoonful  of 
kitchen  bouquet,  the  same  quantity  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  a 
half -teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice  and  a  tablespoonful  of  currant 
jelly.  Turn  the  kidneys  into  this  and  stir  until  very  hot. 

Savory  kidneys 

Skin  and  slice  three  pairs  of  lambs'  kidneys.  Cut  into  halves 
fourteen  canned  mushrooms.  Heat  together  a  cup  of  bouillon 
and  a  half-cup  of  the  liquor  from  a  can  of  mushrooms.  Cook 
together  in  a  saucepan  .a  tablespoonful,  each,  of  butter  and 


BREAKFAST   MEATS  119 

browned  flour,  and  when  these  bubble  pour  upon  them  the  bouil- 
lon and  mushroom  liquor.  Stir  to  a  thick  sauce  and  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  the  same  quantity  of  tomato 
catsup,  a  half-teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  salt  to  taste  and  a  dash 
of  paprika.  Now  stir  in  the  mushrooms  and  sliced  kidneys. 
Cook  for  five  minutes  after  the  boil  is  reached,  stirring  con- 
stantly. 

Fried  kidneys 

Cut  three  pairs  of  lambs'  kidneys  into  halves.  Fry  eight  thin 
slices  of  bacon  until  done ;  remove  from  the  fire  and  keep  hot 
while  you  fry  the  halved  kidneys  in  the  bacon  fat.  Cook  slowly 
for  ten  minutes,  turning  often.  Remove  the  kidneys  and  keep 
hot  with  the  bacon  while  you  stir  a  teaspoonful  of  Worcester- 
shire sauce  and  the  same  quantity  of  catsup  into  the  gravy  left  in 
the  pan. 

Put  crustless  slices  of  toasted  bread  on  a  platter,  lay  the  kid- 
neys on  these,  pour  the  gravy  over  them  and  dispose  the  crisp 
slices  of  bacon  about  the  edge  of  the  platter. 

Broiled  kidneys 

Cut  the  kidneys  into  thick  slices.  Melt  a  little  butter  and 
stir  into  it  a  saltspoonful  of  mustard  and  a  dash  of  lemon  juice. 
Dip  each  slice  of  kidney  in  this,  roll  in  cracker  dust,  and  set  aside 
until  this  coating  stiffens.  A  half-hour  will  be  long  enough. 
Broil  on  a  small  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  often  that 
the  kidneys  may  not  burn.  Be  sure  they  are  thoroughly  done. 
Serve  very  hot. 

Stewed  kidneys 

Cut  the  kidneys  in  halves,  remove  all  the  fat  and  cover  the 
kidneys  with  hot  water,  bring  to  the  boil  and  drain.  Cover  with 
more  hot  water,  again  bring  to  the  boil  and  drain.  Repeat  this 
process  a  third  time.  Remove  them  from  the  liquor,  slice  thin, 
and  thicken  the  gravy  with  browned  flour  rubbed  smooth  with 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  butter.  Return  the  kidneys  to  the  gravy, 


130  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

and  when  very  hot  add  pepper,  salt,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  mush- 
rooms, minced,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  a  little 
lemon  juice,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry.  Serve  imme- 
diately. 

Kidneys  sautes 

Split  the  kidneys,  trim  off  all  fat  and  cut  each  kidney  into 
quarters.  Melt  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan, 
sprinkle  the  kidneys  with  pepper  and  salt  and  roll  each  piece  in 
flour  before  laying  it  in  the  frying-pan.  Cook,  turning  often, 
until  brown.  Lay  upon  a  hot  platter  and  add  to  the  grease  in 
the  pan  xa  wineglassful  of  sherry,  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
onion  juice  and  a  tablespoonful  of  mushroom  catsup.  Boil  this 
sauce  up  once,  and  pour  it  over  the  kidneys. 

Kidneys  a  la  brochette 

Split  the  kidneys,  put  over  the  fire  in  cold  water,  and  bring  to 
a  rapid  boil.  Drain,  wipe  and  slice  each  half.  Cut  the  same 
number  of  thin  slices  of  bacon  the  same  size  and  freed  from  rind 
and  hard  lean.  Arrange  the  bacon  and  kidney  slices  alternately 
on  small  skewers  or  stout  straws,  and  broil  them  quickly.  Send 
to  table  on  the  skewers. 


SWEETBREADS 

Said  a  maid  to  me  once :  "Indeed,  mem,  I  niver  see  sich  an- 
other as  yersel'  for  cookin'  wild  things  and  innards !" 

The  "wild  things"  to  which  she  referred  were  quail,  wood- 
cock and  hare,  while  the  "innards"  of  which  she  spoke  with  such 
scorn  were  sweetbreads,  kidneys  and  brains.  I  may  remark, 
en  passant,  that  the  lower  classes  seldom  like  viands  most  prized 
by  the  epicure,  and  the  cooking  of  them,  to  be  done  properly, 
must  be  performed  by  the  mistress — not  the  maid — unless  the 
latter  be  an  accomplished  cook. 


BREAKFAST   MEATS  121 

Broiled  sweetbreads 

Wash  a  pair  of  sweetbreads,  throw  them  in  boiling  salted 
water,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes.  Drain,  and  lay  in  iced  water 
until  thoroughly  cold.  This  process  is  called  "blanching"  the 
sweetbreads,  and  should  be  done  as  soon  as  the  perishable  dain- 
ties are  brought  home  from  the  butcher's.  Wipe  them  dry,  rub 
with  butter,  and  broil  them  over  a  clear  fire.  Watch  them  that 
they  do  not  scorch.  When  done,  put  them  on  a  hot  dish,  pour 
a  little  melted  butter  over  them,  sprinkle  lightly  with  salt  and 
pepper  and  serve. 

Fried  sweetbreads 

Blanch  and  split  each  sweetbread  in  half,  lengthwise.  Dip  in 
beaten  egg,  roll  in  cracker  crumbs,  and  set  in  a  cold  place  for 
this  coating  to  harden.  At  the  end  of  an  hour,  fry  in  deep  cotto- 
lene  or  other  fat  brought  slowly  to  a  fast  boil. 

Broiled  sweetbreads  with  mushrooms 

Blanch  the  sweetbreads  and  cut  them  in  half,  lengthwise. 
Grease  a  small  gridiron,  lay  the  split  sweetbreads  on  this,  and 
broil  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  frequently  and  watching  carefully 
lest  they  scorch.  When  done,  lay  on  rounds  of  crustless  toast, 
rub  thoroughly  with  butter,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  cover 
with  minced  mushrooms  fried  in  butter. 

Sweetbread  cutlets 

Parboil,  blanch  and  mince  enough  sweetbreads  to  make  two 
cupfuls.  Put  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  white  stock  and  bring 
to  a  boil.  Thicken  with  a  white  roux,  and  when  smooth  stir  in 
gradually  two  beaten  egg  yolks ;  then  turn  the  mixture  upon  a 
dish  to  cool  and  stiffen.  Form  with  floured  hands  into  cutlets, 
arid  fry  in  deep,  boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat 


122  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 


Creamed  sweetbreads 

Blanch  and  cut  two  pairs  of  sweetbreads  into  neat  dice.  Cook 
together  in  a  saucepan  two  tablespoonfuls,  each,  of  butter  and 
flour,  and  pour  upon  them  a  pint  of  cream.  Stir  to  a  smooth 
sauce,  add  the  sweetbreads  and  cook,  stirring  steadily  until  very 
hot.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  minced 
parsley. 

LIVER 

It  is  not  known  to  all  housewives,  even  to  those  who  practise 
economy  from  necessity  or  from  choice — sometimes  from  both — 
that  lamb's  liver,  which  costs  one-fourth  as  much  as  calf's  liver, 
is  quite  as  palatable — some  say  better  than  the  more  expensive 
viand.  The  hint  may  be  borne  in  mind  in  studying  the  follow- 
ing recipes. 

Liver  and  bacon 

Slice  the  liver,  sprinkle  each  slice  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
roll  in  salted  flour.  Set  on  ice  while  you  fry  twice  as  many  thin 
strips  of  bacon  as  you  have  slices  of  liver.  Remove  the  bacon 
from  the  pan  and  lay  in  the  floured  liver.  Fry  slowly  until  done, 
turning  often.  It  should  cook  for  at  least  fifteen  minutes.  Drain 
the  liver,  holding  each  piece  over  the  pan  that  the  grease  may 
drip  off,  and  arrange  on  a  heated  platter,  the  bacon  around  it. 


Broiled  liver  en  brochette 

Cut  the  bacon  thin  and  the  slices  of  liver  into  pieces  of  the 
same  length  and  width.  Run  a  wooden  skewer  or  stout  straw 
through  each  piece  of  liver  and,  alternately,  through  a  slice  of  the 
bacon.  Proceed  in  this  way  until  each  slice  of  bacon  is  fastened 
to  a  slice  of  liver,  and  each  skewer  is  full.  Lay  on  a  broiler  and 
broil  over  a  clear  fire.  When  done  lay  the  liver  and  bacon,  still 
skewered  together,  on  a  hot  platter. 


BREAKFAST    MEATS 


Tried  liver 


123 


Cut  the  liver  into  strips  half  an  inch  wide  and  four  inches  long. 
Heat  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter — or  dripping — in  a  frying- 
pan  and  fry  a  sliced  onion  in  it.  Strain  out  the  onion.  Have 
ready  the  liver,  peppered  and  salted  and  rolled  in  flour.  Put 
this  into  the  fat  and  cook,  turning  once.  Take  up  the  liver  and 
keep  hot  over  boiling  water.  Stir  into  the  fat  left  in  the  pan 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  tomato  sauce,  one  teaspoonful  of  kitchen 
bouquet,  and  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  browned  flour  wet  to  a 
paste  in  cold  water.  Add  salt  and  paprika  to  taste,  boil  up  once, 
put  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry  and  pour  over  the  liver. 

There  is  no  nicer  way  of  cooking  liver  for  breakfast. 

Mince  of  liver 

Chop,  very  fine,  one  pound  of  calf's  liver.  Put  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  liver  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  bacon ;  cover  and  cook  gently  for  one  hour. 
When  nearly  done  add  a  half-teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter-tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  boiling  water. 
Serve  on  a  platter  upon  buttered  toast. 


CHICKEN 

Fried  chicken 

Joint  a  tender  chicken  as  for  fricassee.  Dip  each  piece  in 
beaten  egg,  then  roll  in  salted  cracker  dust  until  thoroughly 
coated.  Set  aside  for  an  hour  before  frying  in  boiling  cottolene 
or  other  fat  to  a  golden  brown.  Be  sure  to  fry  long  enough  for 
the  thickest  pieces  of  chicken  to  be  cooked  all  the  way  through. 

Virginia  fried  chicken 

Prepare  the  chicken  as  directed  in  the  last  recipe.  Fry  half 
a  pound  of  bacon,  sliced  thin.  When  crisp,  but  not  burned, 


MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

strain  off  the  fat  and  return  to  the  pan.  Keep  the  bacon  hot 
while  you  fry  the  chicken  (prepared  with  egg  and  cracker  dust) 
in  the  fat,  turning  twice.  Should  there  not  be  fat  enough,  add 
dripping  or  cottolene  or  other  fat.  When  done,  arrange  upon  a 
hot  dish  and  garnish  with  the  bacon. 

Fried  chicken  with  cream  gravy 
(A  Maryland  dish.) 

After  dishing  the  chicken  cooked  as  in  foregoing  recipe,  strain 
the  fat  again,  stir  in  a  lump  of  butter  rolled  in  flour  that  has  been 
slightly  browned,  and,  when  it  bubbles,  a  small  cup  of  hot  cream 
or  milk  to  which  a  pinch  of  soda  has  been  added.  Stir  for  two 
minutes  to  prevent  scorching,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  minced 
parsley  and  pour  over  the  chicken. 

Broiled  chicken 

Use  none  but  undeniably  young  chickens  for  broiling.  Clean 
well  and  split  down  the  back.  Lay  for  an  hour  in  a  marinade  of 
salad  oil  and  lemon  juice,  if  there  is  any  doubt  on  this  point. 

If  certain  of  your  subject,  wash  over  with  butter  and  lay  upon 
a  greased  and  heated  gridiron,  breast  uppermost.  The  fire  should 
be  red  and  strong.  Broil  about  ten  minutes  to  the  pound,  lifting 
when  it  begins  to  drip  and  turning  four  times  to  insure  thorough 
cooking.  When  dished  it  should  be  sprinkled  with  pepper  and 
salt  and  well  buttered. 


SOME  WAYS  OF  COOKING  COLD  CHICKEN 

Chicken  fritters 

Cook  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  flour  in  one  tablespoonful  of 
hot  butter  and  one  cup  of  chicken  stock,  added  gradually.  Sea- 
son with  celery  salt  and  pepper  and  pour  half  of  this  sauce  into 
a  small,  shallow,  buttered  pan.  Chop  one  cupful  of  cold  chicken 


BREAKFAST   MEATS  125 

quite  fine,  season  and  spread  it  evenly  over  the  top  of  the  sauce 
after  it  has  thickened.  Cover  with  the  remainder  of  the  sauce, 
place  on  ice,  and  when  very  cold  and  hard  cut  into  rounds  or 
squares.  Dip  them  quickly  into  batter  and  fry  in  deep,  hot  cotto- 
lene  or  other  fat,  or  in  clarified  chicken  dripping. 

These  should  be  prepared  over  nig^\  The  fritters  will  keep 
their  shape  if  left  a  long  time  before  the  paste  is  cut  up. 

Chicken  omelet 

Beat  four  eggs  very  light,  season  with  salt  and  pour  into  a 
greased  frying-pan.  Have  ready  a  cupful  of  minced  chicken 
(heated)  and  a  pint  of  hot  white  sauce  in  which  a  tablespoonful 
of  minced  parsley  has  been  stirred.  When  the  omelet  is  "set" 
and  ready  to  be  removed  from  the  pan,  sprinkle  over  it  the 
minced  chicken,  fold  it  over  and  transfer  to  a  hot  platter.  Pour 
the  white  sauce  about  the  omelet. 


Chicken  mince  on  the  half -shell 

Cut  fine  sweet  peppers  in  half  lengthwise;  remove  core  and 
seeds,  taking  care  not  to  touch  the  sides  of  the  peppers,  and  soak 
for  an  hour  in  cold  water  slightly  salted. 

Mince  fine  the  cold  meat  of  a  chicken  and  add  it  to  one-fourth 
as  much  fine  crumbs  as  you  have  chicken;  moisten  with  gravy 
or  sauce ;  fill  the  peppers,  sprinkle  fine  crumbs  over  the  top,  dot 
with  bits  of  butter,  bake  half  an  hour  covered,  then  brown. 

Creamed  chicken 

Make  a  white  roux  of  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  half  as 
much  flour ;  when  it  bubbles  add  a  cupful  of  cold  chicken  cut  into 
dice,  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste  and 
enough  stock  to  keep  all  from  burning.  Cook  for  ten  minutes  be- 
fore stirring  in  two  hard-boiled  eggs  chopped  fine  and  a  cup  of 
rich  milk  heated  with  a  pinch  of  soda  stirred  in. 


136  MARION    HARLAND'S   COOK   BOOK 

Imitation  terrapin 

Proceed  as  directed  in  last  recipe,  adding  at  the  last,  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon  and  a  glass  of  sherry.  Boil  up  and  serve 
at  once. 

Turkey  croquettes 

Mince  enough  cold  roast  turkey  to  make  two  cupfuls,  season 
with  salt,  pepper  and  a  half  pint  of  oyster  liquor.  Put  into  a  sauce- 
pan and  make  scalding  hot.  Thicken  a  cupful  of  hot  milk  with  a 
tablespoonful  of  white  roux,  stir  it  into  the  turkey  mince,  and 
when  the  boiling  point  is  reached  remove  it  from  the  fire.  When 
cold  and  stiff  form  into  croquettes,  crumb  these  and  set  on  the 
ice  for  two  hours  before  frying  to  a  golden  brown  in  deep,  boil- 
ing cottolene  or  other  fat,  or  in  clarified  chicken  drippings,  if  you 
have  it. 

Turkey  scallops 

Mince  remnants  of  cold  turkey  rather  coarsely  and  mix  with  it 
one-third  as  much  stuffing  or  bread  crumbs.  Moisten  with 
gravy,  oyster  liquor  or  stock,  season  well;  fill  scallop  shells  or 
pate  pans  with  the  mixture,  cover  with  fine  crumbs,  with  dots 
of  butter  over  all  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Stewed  calf-brains 

Heat  a  great  spoonful  of  butter  in  the  frying-pan  and  when 
hot,  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  flour.  Add  a  gill  of  cream  with  salt 
and  pepper,  chopped  parsley  and  a  teaspoonful  of  kitchen  bou- 
quet. Put  a  pinch  of  soda  into  the  cream.  When  heated,  put  in  the 
brains,  which  have  been  previously  blanched  and  cut  into  large 
dice.  Cook  ten  minutes,  stirring  constantly,  and  serve  hot. 

Brain  fritters 

Blanch  the  brains  by  boiling  them  in  salted  water  for  ten  min- 
utes. Throw  into  ice-cold  water  and  leave  there  for  half  an 
hour.  When  cold,  mash  to  a  paste  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Stir 


LAMB  CHOPS 


I 


CROQUETTES! 


CHICKEN    SCALLOP 


ENTREES 


BREAKFAST   MEATS  127 

into  them  two  eggs,  beaten  light,  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter, 
a  half -teaspoon  ful  of  salt  and  enough  flour  to  make  a  fritter  bat- 
ter. Beat  hard  fpr  three  minutes  and  drop  this  mixture  into  deep, 
boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat.  When  golden  brown  in  color, 
drain  free  of  grease  in  a  hot  colander.  Serve  very  hot. 


Fried  brains 

Blanch  as  above  directed,  leave  in  cold  water  until  firm,  and 
wipe  dry.  Slice  into  pieces  of  uniform  size;  pepper  and  salt, 
roll  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  fine  crumbs.  Do  this  over  night.  In 
the  morning  roll  again  in  egg  and  cracker-dust;  leave  on  the 
ice  for  half  an  hour  and  fry  quickly  in  hot  cottolene  or  other  fat. 
Drain  free  from  fat  and  serve  hot.  Pass  thin  slices  of  crisp 
toast  with  them. 

Broiled  veal  chops 

Trim  neatly  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  several  times. 
Allow  ten  minutes  to  the  pound.  Transfer  to  a  hot  dish  and 
cover  with  a  mixture  of  butter,  lemon  juice  and  minced  parsley. 
Cover  and  set  in  a  hot  oven  for  a  few  minutes  before  serving. 


Fried  veal  chops  or  cutlets 

Dip  in  egg,  then  in  cracker  crumbs,  and  set  on  ice  until  morn- 
ing. Repeat  the  process,  leave  on  ice  for  half  an  hour  and  fry 
in  deep,  hot  cottolene  or  other  fat.  Drain,  dish  and  send  to  table 
with  tomato  sauce. 

Veal  cutlets  and  bacon 

Chop  raw  lean  veal  fine,  season  well  with  celery  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  with  your  hands  mold  into  oval  shape.  Roll  in  egg  and 
fine  crumbs  and  leave  on  ice  all  night.  In  the  morning  fry  thin 
slices  of  bacon,  remove  them  to  a  hot  dish  and  fry  the  cutlets 
slowly  in  the  fat  left  in  the  pan.  Drain,  arrange  on  a  platter  and 
lay  the  bacon  about  them.  Pass  tomato  sauce  with  them. 


iaft  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Lamb  chops 

Trim  off  the  fat,  broil  carefully  and  arrange  them  around  a 
mound  of  mashed  potatoes.  Garnish  with  a  garland  of  parsley 
laid  about  the  base  of  the  mound. 

Barbecued  lambs'  tongues 

Open  a  can  of  lambs'  tongues  and  spread  on  a  platter.  Sprinkle 
with  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  onion  juice.  Lay  in  a  sauce  made 
by  stirring  together  three  tablespoonfuls  of  salad  oil  and  one  of 
vinegar.  Let  them  stand  in  this  mixture  over  night.  In  the 
morning  heat  a  little  butter  in  the  frying-pan,  lay  the  tongues  in 
this  and  saut&,  turning  often. 

Mince  of  mutton 

Chop  the  meat  fine,  removing  bits  of  fat  and  gristle.  Season 
with  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  onion  juice.  (It  is  always  better  to 
grate,  than  to  slice  onions  for  seasoning.)  Mix  with  the  minced 
meat  one-fifth  of  its  bulk  of  fine  bread  crumbs  wet  with  the  gravy 
and  work  in  the  beaten  yolk  of  a  raw  egg  to  "bind"  the  mixture. 
Mold  into  flat  cakes,  dip  these  into  a  beaten  raw  egg,  then  in 
cracker  crumbs  and  set  in  a  cold  place  over  night.  Fry  quickly, 
as  you  would  doughnuts,  in  deep  cottolene  or  other  fat  (never  in 
lard)  made  very  hot.  Take  up  as  soon  as  they  are  done,  drain  off 
every  drop  of  fat  and  lay  upon  rounds  of  lightly  browned  toast 
in  a  heated  dish.  Garnish  with  sprigs  of  parsley. 

Minced  mutton  and  tomato  toast 

Make  three  cups  of  good  well-seasoned  tomato  sauce,  thickened 
with  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  flour  rubbed  into  one  of  butter. 
Keep  hot  in  a  double  boiler  set  at  the  side  of  the  range. 

Toast  slices  of  bread,  butter  them,  spread  on  a  platter  and  put 
a  tablespoonful  of  tomato  sauce  on  each.  Into  the  remainder 
of  the  tomato  sauce  turn  two  cupfuls  of  minced  mutton,  put  the 
saucepan  over  the  fire,  stir  until  the  meat  is  thoroughly  heated, 
season  to  taste  and  pour  upon  the  toast. 


BREAKFAST  GAME 


Broiled  rabbit 

HAVE  your  butcher  skin  and  clean  the  rabbit,  remove  the  head 
and  open  it  from  end  to  end  on  the  under  side.  Wipe  it  inside 
and  out  with  a  damp  cloth  and  lay  it  open  on  a  greased  gridiron. 
Cut  gashes  across  the  back  that  the  heat  may  penetrate  to  the 
thickest  part.  Broil  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  often.  It  should 
cook  for  about  twenty  minutes.  Transfer  to  a  hot  dish,  rub  with 
butter,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper  and  serve. 

Barbecued  rabbit 

Cook  precisely  as  in  the  last  recipe  and  keep  hot  on  a  platter 
while  you  make  a  sauce  of  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  two  of 
melted  butter,  a  dash  of  salt  and  a '  teaspoonf ul  of  French  mus- 
tard. Pour  this  sauce  over  the  hot  rabbit  and  send  to  table.  This 
is  a  delicious  and  savory  dish. 

Smothered  rabbits 

Skin  and  clean  a  pair  of  rabbits ;  lay  in  a  covered  roaster ;  pour 
a  cup  of  boiling  water  over  them  and  cook,  covered,  until  ten- 
der. Baste  five  or  six  times  with  a  mixture  of  butter  and  water 
mixed  with  a  teaspoonf  ul  of  onion  juice.  When  the  rabbits  are 
done  transfer  to  a  platter  and  keep  hot,  while  you  thicken  the 
gravy  in  the  pan  with  a  tablespoonful  of  browned  flour  rubbed 
up  with  one  of  butter.  Cook  one  minute,  add  two  teaspoon fuls 

9  129 


130  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

of  vinegar,  a  saltspoonful  of  paprika  and  a  generous  teaspoonful 
of  made  mustard.  Boil  up  once,  pour  over  the  rabbits  and  leave, 
covered,  over  hot  water  five  minutes  before  serving. 

Venison  steak 

Grease  your  gridiron  thoroughly  before  laying  your  steak  upon 
it.  Broil  the  steak,  turning  frequently  over  a  fire  of  clear  coals. 
As  it  is  better  rare,  do  not  cook  the  venison  too  long.  When  done 
lay  the  meat  upon  a  hot  platter,  put  upon  it  several  spoonfuls  of 
butter  and  a  little  currant  jelly,  cover  and  set  in  the  oven  long- 
enough  to  melt  the  butter  and  to  soften  the  jelly,  then  send  im- 
mediately to  the  table. 

Broiled  quails  and  woodcock 

Clean  and  split  down  the  back.  Wash  carefully  and  dry  inside 
and  out  with  a  clean  cloth.  Leave  on  ice  half  an  hour  and  broil 
over  a  clear  hot  fire.  Dish,  pepper  and  salt,  put  a  piece  of  butter 
upon,  and  lay  under  each  bird  a  round  of  delicate  toast. 

Small  birds 
Can  be  cooked  in  the  same  way. 


BREAKFAST  VEGETABLES 


Stewed  potatoes 

PARE  the  potatoes  and  cut  into  small  dice.  Cook  tender  in 
boiling  water,  salted.  When  clear,  but  not  broken,  turn  off  the 
water  and  cover  with  hot  milk  into  which  you  have  stirred  a  lump 
of  butter  rolled  in  flour.  Simmer  for  ten  minutes,  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  finely-minced  parsley,  boil  up  once  and  serve. 

Hashed  potatoes,  browned   (No.  1) 

Cook  as  in  last  recipe,  but  when  ready  for  the  milk  turn  the 
stewed  potatoes  into  a  buttered  pudding  dish,  cover  with  the 
milk,  butter  and  flour  and  bake,  covered,  half  an  hour.  Then  un- 
cover and  brown. 

This  dish  is  particularly  good  if  a  little  onion  juice  and  about 
a  tablespoonful  of  minced  celery  be  mixed  with  the  potatoes  just 
before  they  are  put  into  the  bake-dish.  The  dice  should  be  very 
small. 

Hashed  potatoes,  creamed  and  browned  (No.  2) 

Cut  a  dozen  cold  boiled  potatoes  into  very  small  dice.  Thicken 
a  cupful  of  hot  milk  with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  rubbed  into  one 
of  butter.  Season  to  taste  and  stir  the  potato  dice  into  this  sauce. 
Stir  for  just  a  minute  ;  turn  into  a  greased  baking-dish  and  brown 
in  a  good  oven. 

Lyonnaise  potatoes 

Cut  a  dozen  cold  boiled  potatoes  into  dice  of  uniform  size. 
Shred  two  onions  very  thin  and  put  them  into  a  frying-pan  with 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  Fry  the  onion  to  a  light  brown; 


132  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

add  the  potatoes  and  fry  until  delicately  colored,  stirring  fre- 
quently.  Strew  with  chopped  parsley  and  serve. 


Potato  croquettes 

Into  a  pint  of  hot  mashed  potatoes  stir  a*  tablespoonful  of  but- 
ter, a  beaten  egg,  salt  and  pepper  and  enough  cream  to  make  the 
potatoes  of  the  proper  consistency  to  be  formed  into  croquettes. 
Roll  in  egg  and  cracker  crumbs  and  set  in  the  ice-box  for  an  hour 
before  frying  in  deep  cottolene  or  other  fat  to  a  light  brown. 
Drain  in  a  hot  colander. 

Potato  omelet 

Beat  two  cupfuls  of  mashed  potatoes  to  a  cream  with  milk,  salt 
and  pepper  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter.  Beat  three 
eggs  light  and  whip  them  into  the  potato  mixture.  Have  a  but- 
tered frying-pan  heated,  turn  the  omelet  into  this  and  cook  until 
set ;  turn  out  upon  a  hot  platter. 


Chopped  potatoes  sautes 

Chop  cold  boiled  potatoes  evenly  and  rather  coarsely.  Put  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter  or  of  good  dripping  into  a  frying-pan  and 
when  hot  stir  the  potato-dice  into  it,  tossing  and  shaking  until 
they  are  smoking  hot.  Pepper  and  salt  and  dish. 

An  equal  quantity  of  sweet  potato  dice  mixed  with  the  white 
will  make  the  dish  still  better. 


Potatoes  fried  whole 

Boil  potatoes  of  uniform  size  until  just  done.  Sprinkle  with 
salt.  When  cold  roll  in  beaten  egg  and  cracker  crumbs  and 
set  in  a  cold  place  for  an  hour.  Fry  in  deep,  boiling  cottolene  or 
other  fat,  or  in  dripping  to  a  golden  brown. 


BREAKFAST  VEGETABLES         133 

Fried  green  peppers 

Slice  green  peppers  crosswise  and  remove  the  seeds  and  tough, 
white  membrane.  Melt  a  little  butter  in  the  frying-pan  and  fry 
the  sliced  peppers  in  this.  They  are  an  appetizing  accompani- 
ment to  fried  fish. 

Stuffed  peppers 

Mince  enough  cold  chicken  to  make  a  cupful  and  stir  into  it  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  minced  ham  and  one  of  melted  butter.  Season 
to  taste.  Cut  the  stems  from  green  peppers  so  that  they  will 
stand  upright.  Cut  off  the  tops  of  the  peppers,  remove  the  seeds 
and  membrane  and  fill  with  the  minced  chicken  and  ham.  Stand 
the  peppers  on  end  in  a  baking-pan,  pour  about  them  a  cup  of 
chicken  stock  and  bake  half  an  hour. 

German  potato  pancakes 

Six  large  raw  potatoes  grated  fine;  three  eggs;  a  scant  tea- 
spoonful  of  soda ;  salt  to  taste.  Mix  as  pancake  dough  and  fry 
in  plenty  of  cottolene  or  other  fat  previously  heated  gradually 
to  a  boil. 

Fried  eggplant 

Cut  the  eggplant  into  slices  nearly  three-quarters  of  an  inch 
thick,  peel  these  and  lay  them  in  a  bowl  of  cold,  salted  water, 
putting  a  plate  on  them  to  keep  them  under  the  surface  of  the 
liquid.  At  the  end  of  an  hour  remove  the  vegetables  from  the 
water  and  wipe  dry  on  a  clean  cloth.  Dip  each  slice  in  beaten 
egg,  then  in  cracker  crumbs  and  lay  on  a  platter.  Set  in  the  ice- 
box for  an  hour  and  fry  to  a  golden  brown  in  deep  boiling  cotto- 
lene or  other  fat.  Drain  in  a  colander  lined  with  tissue  paper  and 
pile  on  a  folded  napkin  on  a  hot  platter. 

Broiled  eggplant 

Cut  the  eggplant  in  slices  half  an  inch  thick,  peel  and  leave 
for  an  hour  in  cold,  salted  water,  as  in  the  preceding  recipe. 


134  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Wipe  the  slices  dry  and  lay  in  a  bath  of  five  tablespoonfuls  of 
salad  oil  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  vinegar.  At  the  end  of  fifteen 
minutes  remove  the  eggplant,  drain  in  a  colander,  sprinkle  each 
slice  with  salt  and  pepper,  lay  on  a  gridiron  and  broil  over  a  clear 
fire.  Cook  for  five  minutes  on  one  side  before  turning  the  broiler. 
Serve  very  hot. 

Pried  ripe  tomatoes 

Cut  firm  tomatoes  into  thick  slices,  but  do  not  peel  them. 
Sprinkle  each  slice  with  salt,  dip  into  a  beaten  egg  and  then  in  fine 
cracker  dust.  Set  in  a  cold  place  for  an  hour  and  fry  in  boiling 
cottolene  or  other  fat,  or  in  butter. 

Broiled  ripe  tomatoes  (No.  1) 

Cut  large*  firm  tomatoes  into  half-inch  slices,  sprinkle  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  dip  in  fine  bread  crumbs.  Put  into  a  greased 
broiler  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire  until  heated  thoroughly.  Spread 
with  soft  butter  and  serve  at  once. 

Broiled  tomatoes  (No.  2) 

Wash  and  wipe  ripe  tomatoes.  With  a  very  sharp  knife  cut 
them  in  half  and  lay,  skin  side  down,  upon  a  buttered  broiler. 
Cook  over  a  clear  fire  until  done;  arrange  squares  of  toast  on  a 
hot  platter  and  lay  the  broiled  tomatoes  on  this  toast — half  a 
tomato  to  each  slice.  Handle  carefully  that  they  may  not  break. 
Sprinkle  with  pepper  and  salt  and  pour  melted  butter  over  all. 

Grilled  tomatoes 

Cut  large,  firm  tomatoes  into  thick  slices.  Do  not  peel.  Rub 
an  oyster  broiler  lightly  with  butter,  lay  on  it  the  slices  of  tomato 
and  broil  over  a  clear  fire.  Have  ready  a  sauce  made  by  working 
a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  minced  parsley  and  of  lemon  juice  into 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  Sprinkle  the  tomatoes  with  pepper 
and  salt,  put  the  sauce  on  them,  let  them  stand  covered  in  the 


BREAKFAST  VEGETABLES         135 

open  oven  or  plate-warmer  for  a  couple  of  minutes,  or  until  the 
butter  is  melted,  and  serve. 

Tomatoes  and  bacon 

Prepare  tomatoes  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  omitting  the  sauce. 
Keep  them  hot  while  you  broil  or  fry  thin  slices  of  bacon  to  a 
delicate  crisp.  Arrange  the  tomatoes  on  a  dish,  lay  a  slice  or  two 
of  the  bacon  on  each  piece  of  the  tomato  and  serve.  This  is  an 
excellent  breakfast  dish. 

If  for  any  reason  it  is  not  convenient  to  broil  the  tomatoes, 
they  may  be  fried  in  butter  or  in  olive  oil,  drained  dry  and  served 
in  the  same  fashion. 

Broiled  green  tomatoes 

Cut  the  unpeeled  tomatoes  into  half-inch  slices  and  lay  in  sweet 
oil  for  five  minutes.  Transfer  the  slices  carefully  to  a  fine  wire 
broiler  and  cook  to  a  delicate  brown.  When  done,  sprinkle  with 
salt  and  pepper,  lay  on  slices  of  crisp  toast  and  pour  a  white  sauce 
over  and  around  all. 

Fried  green  tomatoes 

Wipe  green  tomatoes  with  a  damp  cloth,  cut  them  into  slices 
half  an  inch  thick,  dip  in  beaten  egg  and  cracker  crumbs,  set  in 
the  ice-chest  for  half  an  hour  and  then  fry  in  butter  to  a  delicate 
brown.  Drain  from  grease  and  serve  on  a  hot  platter. 

Broiled  mushrooms 

Peel,  lay  upon  a  buttered  broiler  and  cook  over  clear  coals,  al- 
lowing three  minutes  to  each  side  of  the  mushrooms.  Transfer 
to  thin  slices  of  crustless  toast,  put  a  bit  of  butter  and  a  dash  of 
salt  and  paprika  on  each  mushroom  and  set  in  an  oven  just  long 
enough  to  melt  the  butter. 

Fried  mushrooms 

Melt  a  great  spoonful  of  butter  in  an  agate  frying-pan.  Peel 
the  mushrooms  and  cut  off  their  stems,  scraping  these  last.  Lay 


136  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

the  mushrooms  with  their  scraped  stalks  in  the  frying-pan  and 
cook,  turning  often,  until  done.     Serve  very  hot. 

Green  pepper  toast 

Slice  bread  thin,  cut  off  the  crusts  and  toast  on  both  sides  to  a 
delicate  brown,  then  butter  and  keep  hot  in  the  oven.  Heat  a 
cup  of  beef  stock  in  the  saucepan.  Rub  together  a  tablespoonful 
of  butter  and  the  same  quantity  of  browned  flour  and  stir  it  into 
the  beef  stock.  When  you  have  a  very  thick  brown  sauce  add 
salt  to  taste  and  a  half  cupful  of  green  peppers  which  have  been 
seeded,  freed  from  the  tough  white  core  and  minced  very  fine. 
Stir  to  a  paste,  remove  from  the  fire  and  spread  upon  the  slices 
of  hot  toast.  Set  in  the  oven '  long  enough  to  become  very  hot 
and  crisp,  and  serve. 

Fried  hominy 

Warm  three  cups  of  cold  boiled  hominy  by  setting  the  vessel 
containing  it  in  an  outer  vessel  of  boiling  water.  When  hot,  add 
a  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  beat 
the  hominy  smooth  and  turn  into  small  muffin-tins  to  get  cold  and 
to  form.  When  very  stiff,  turn  the  forms  over,  roll  each  in 
beaten  egg  and  cracker  dust  and  set  all  in  a  cold  place  for  an 
hour.  Fry  in  deep,  boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat. 

Block  potatoes 
(Contributed) 

Cut  raw  potatoes  in  cubes.  Wipe  them  dry  and  fry  in  deep  fat 
until  a  light  brown.  Salt,  drain  on  brown  paper  and  serve  hot. 


FAMILIAR  TALK 

WITH  MARTHA  IN  HER  KITCHEN 

(Time— The  cook's  "afternoon  out.") 

IT  is  the  Christian  duty  of  every  housemother  in  this  comfort- 
loving  land  to  provide  a  commodious,  well-appointed  kitchen  and 
laundry,  where  daily  household  work  is  done,  and  clean,  airy,  com- 
fortable chambers  for  workers,  where  they  may  take  rest  in  sleep 
when  that  work  is  over.  I  should  fail  in  observance  of  the  Golden 
Rule  if  I  were  to  oblige  them  to  work  where  I  could  not  w^rk, 
or  to  sleep  where  slumber  would  be  an  impossibility  to  me. 

My  own  preference  for  a  kitchen  floor-covering  is  really  good 
linoleum  of  conventional  design  and  light  in  color,  therefore 
cheerful  in  effect.  Many  housewives  insist  upon  oiled  hardwood 
or  painted  floors.  Not  one  cook  in  twenty  takes  proper  care  of 
an  oiled  floor,  and  paint  soon  wears  off.  It  is  economical  to  buy 
a  prime  quality  of  linoleum,  and  to  lay  the  same  pattern  on 
kitchen,  laundry  and  hall.  When  it  wears  out  in  one  room  it  can 
be  replaced  from  another.  Inlaid  linoleum  will  last  for  years. 

Thick,  strong  rugs  should  be  laid  before  the  range  and  by  the 
tables,  one  under  the  table  at  which  the  servants  eat.  Linoleum  is 
cold  to  the  feet,  and  one  takes  cold  readily  when  over-heated. 

I  read,  last  year,  that  kitchen  tables  are  now,  as  "a  taking  nov- 
elty," covered  with  zinc.  Over  a  score  or  years  ago  I  covered 
what  may  be  called  the  work-tables  in  my  kitchen  with  this  useful 
metal,  tacking  it  neatly  under  the  edges,  lest  a  loose  point  might 
tear  hands  or  clothes.  I  have  kept  it  up  ever  since.  The  table- 
tops  are  cleaned  easily ;  they  never  "take"  grease  or  stain  of  any 
kind,  and  they  outwear  wood  by  many  years. 

Another  invaluable  invention  which  I  wish  I  could  place  in 

137 


138  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

every  kitchen  is  a  sheet-iron  hood  and  asbestos  curtain,  fitted  to 
the  top  of  the  recess  enclosing  the  range.  It  works  so  easily  upon 
pulleys  that  a  little  finger  could  pull  it  down.  When  raised,  it  is 
entirely  out  of  the  cook's  way ;  when  down,  it  shuts  in  the  range 
like  an  impervious  screen.  Sliding  doors  in  the  center  allow 
one  to  look  into  pots  and  kettles  simmering  behind  it,  when  over- 
sight is  advisable.  If  left  closed,  it  will  lower  the  temperature  of 
the  kitchen  twenty  degrees  within  two  hours.  It  cost  twenty 
dollars  when  new,  twelve  years  ago.  If  I  could  not  get  another, 
twelve  hundred  dollars  would  not  buy  it. 

I  long  ago  discarded  the  old-fashioned  tin  and  iron  cooking 
utensils  in  favor  of  agate-nickel-steel  ware,  which  is  as  easily 
washed  as  crockery  bowls  and  plates ;  is  light  and  neat  in  appear- 
ance ;  never  rusts,  and  is  altogether  satisfactory.  All  of  my  ket- 
tles have  covers,  and  we  use  covered  roasters — another  boon  to 
housewives — for  cooking  meats.  They  keep  in  flavor  and  juices, 
and  lessen  the  labor  of  basting. 

Always  have  a  rocking-chair  convenient  into  which  the  cook  can 
drop  for  rest  between  the  times  of  active  duty,  and  one  apiece 
for  maids  in  the  laundry.  For  yourself,  follow  the  rule  I  laid 
down  imperatively  a  quarter-century  ago  in  COMMON  SENSE  IN 
THE  HOUSEHOLD — "Never  stand  at  your  work  when  you  can 
sit."  A  chair  suited  in  height  to  the  mixing  table  will  save  you 
many  an  ache  in  the  feet,  back  and  head. 

Do  not  allow  servants  to  jumble  their  table  crockery,  etc.,  up 
with  pots,  saucepans,  kettles,  colanders  and  the  like.  There  is  no 
reason  why  the  dresser  or  closet  in  which  the  kitchen  tableware 
is  kept  should  not  be  as  daintily  arranged  as  the  dining-room 
buffet.  It  should  hold  no  commerce  with  the  pot  closet. 

The  servants'  chambers  must  be  furnished  with  iron  bedsteads, 
good  mattresses,  plenty  of  clean  blankets  and  white  spreads.  The 
"honeycomb"  spreads  are  absurdly  cheap  and  easily  washed.  The 
rest  of  the  appointments  of  the  dormitories  need  not  be  elaborate. 
If  they  are  neat  and  comfortable  the  occupants  are  more  likely 
to  try  and  make  them  attractive.  When  one  pins  up  a  crucifix 
over  her  bed,  her  mother's  or  sister's  photograph  against  the  wall, 
or  even  a  colored  lithograph  of  a  patent  medicine — notice  it  pleas- 


FAMILIAR   TALK  139 

antly.  It  means  that  she  is  catching  the  home  feeling.  Muslin 
curtains  cost  next  to  nothing.  Hang  them  up  at  her  window; 
give  her  a  pretty  cover  for  her  bureau-top  and  a  plain  one  for  her 
washstand,  and  plenty  of  towels.  The  Golden  Rule  works  well 
here — where  does  it  not  ? 

I  read  a  little  story  many,  many  years  ago — before  you  were 
born,  I  think — a  slight,  commonplace  affair,  that  has  furnished 
two  generations  of  busy  housewives  with  a  hard-worked  mot 
de  famille. 

Excuse  the  foreign  phrase!  We  have  none  in  English  that 
exactly  translates  it.  "Household  word"  comes  nearer  to  it  than 
anything  else,  without  quite  covering  it. 

The  tale  was  of  a  fidgety  housekeeper  of  the  sort  stigmatized 
in  the  rough  parlance  of  the  sensible  vulgar  as  "nasty  particular." 
A  friend,  calling  upon  her  soon  after  breakfast,  found  her  fairly 
beside  herself  with  worry  because  guests  she  had  expected  at  noon 
had  telegraphed  that  they  would  be  with  her  at  eleven  o'clock  that 
morning.  Distracted  Martha  "could  never  in  the  world  be  ready 
for  them.  There  was  so  much  to  do  that  she  did  not  know  what 
to  take  hold  of  first.  It  was  enough  to  drive  a  woman  out  of  her 
senses,"  etc.,  etc.,  etc. 

"But  what  have  you  to  do  ?" 

"Do!  Do!  Do!    Why— everything !" 

The  visitor  drew  off  her  gloves. 

"I  will  stay  and  help  you.     Shan't  I  get  the  spare  room  ready  ?" 

A  gesture  of  disdain. 

"As  if  I  would  have  put  that  off  until  today !" 

"Can  I  help  about  luncheon  ?" 

"Well !  I  should  be  ashamed  of  myself  if  the  cook  hadn't  her 
orders  and  materials  and  all  before  this !" 

"Perhaps  I  could  dust  the  parlors?  or  polish  silver?  or— 
glancing  around  the  perfectly  appointed  dining-room,  where  the 
luncheon  table  was  already  laid— "I  might  arrange  the  flowers  in 
the  vases?" 

It  finally  transpired  that  the  frantic  and  "forehanded"  hostess 
could  specify  but  one  thing  that  remained  to  be  done  before  every- 
thing should  be  in  order  for  the  visitors.  She  had  "butter-balls 


140  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

to  make  for  luncheon.  She  always  kept  the  paddles  in  ice-water 
for  hours  beforehand." 

I  was  young  then  and  read  the  little  story  aloud  to  my  mother 
— a  woman  blessed  with  a  keen  sense  of  humor  and  as  keen  a  per- 
ception of  the  fitness  of  things.  She  adopted  the  phrase  on  the 
spot.  "Butter-balls  to  make"  became  with  us  the  synonym  for 
needless  hurry  and  flurry  and  worry.  When  used  interrogatively, 
it  was  the  cabalistic  formula  that  caused  a  precipitate  and  a  settle- 
ment of  many  a  muddy  whirl  of  anxieties,  the  open  sesame  to  a 
"chamber  the  name  of  which  was  Peace." 

Half  of  the  perturbations  that  chase  the  housemother  "clean  out 
of  her  wits"  are  as  purely  imaginary  as  those  that  beset  the  her- 
oine of  our  wee  scrap  of  a  story.  That  other  American  Martha 
who  cried  out  on  Monday  morning :  "Washing  to-day !  Ironing  on 
Tuesday !  Baking  on  Wednesday !  Bless  my  life,  half  the  week 
gone  and  nothing  done!"  is  hardly  a  caricature  of  the  national 
housewife.  Worry  is  a  whirlwind  that  throws  the  weightier 
matters  of  the  law  of  life  out  of  plumb,  and  raises  such  a  dust  of 
minor  duties  and  possible  hindrances  that  the  blinded  victim  can 
see  nothing  aright. 

One  of  the  fixed  principles  of  the  universe  is  that  two  objects 
can  not  occupy  the  same  place  at  the  same  time.  Another,  which 
we  are  more  slow  to  admit,  is  that  no  two  duties  are  cast  for  one 
and  the  same  instant.  The  throngs  of  homely  tasks  that  obscure 
our  toiler's  vision  in  the  anticipation  of  "another  day's  work," 
drifting  and  dancing  in  the  light  of  the  new  day — a  flood  of 
elusive  moths — have  really  sequence  and  order.  Let  her  take 
hold  of  her  astral  or  inner  self,  by  the  shoulders,  and  hold  her 
steady  until  she  can  weigh  and  classify  the  importunate  atoms. 
The  pretty  fairy-tale  of  the  tasks  set  for  Graciosa  by  her  wicked 
stepmother  supplies  another  and  a  pat  illustration.  The  poor  girl 
had  to  sort  a  roomful  of  feathers  of  all  colors  and  sizes.  After 
laboring  vainly  for  hours,  she  called  tearfully  for  her  fairy  lover, 
who,  with  one  stroke  of  his  wand,  laid  each  kind  in  a  separate 
heap  from  the  rest. 

Your  wand — and  my  wand — dear  Martha,  is  the  cool,  long 
breath  of  sober  reflection  that  gives  us  time  to  say:  "All  these 


RANGE-SCREEN    LOWERED    TO    SHUT   IN    HEAT 


FAMILIAR   TALK  141 

things  can  not  be  done  at  once.  Some  of  the  less  important  can 
be  laid  over  into  the  convenient  season  which  must  fall  into  the 
lot  of  even  an  American  housekeeper.  I  must  keep  each  in  its 
place.  I  will" — a  strong  "will,"  a  long  "will,"  and  many  "wills" 
altogether — "I  will  think  of  but  one  thing  at  a  time,  and  do  it 
as  if  there  were  nothing  else  in  the  world  for  me  to  do." 

The  discipline  of  thought  and  nerves  that  must  attend  upon 
such  a  moral  and  mental  effort  will  train  lawless  impulses  and 
teach  concentration  of  thought  as  well  as  the  much-vaunted 
higher  mathematics  could.  Work  need  not,  of  necessity,  be 
worry.  Industry  does  not  imply  haste. 

"Count  five  and  twenty,  Tattycoram !"  entreated  Mr.  Meagles, 
when  the  foundling's  temper  was  likely  to  get  away  from  her. 

In  the  same  tone  of  affectionate  warning,  I  pass  on  my  homely 
test  of  facts  and  values — "Butter-balls  to  make!"  First,  make 
sure  of  what  you  really  have  to  do,  and  to  do  today.  Secondly, 
having  screened  and  sifted  the  mass,  assort  the  ore  before  you  be- 
gin to  smelt  it — and  yourself  ! 

In  place  of  counting  five  and  twenty,  accept  my  formula — 
"Draw  ten  deep  breaths"  before  you  make  up  your  mind  that  you 
have  not  time  for  one. 

The  world  is  full  of  fresh  air  and  it  owes  us  all  we  can  take  in 
leisurely  and  thankfully. 

No  matter  how  heavy  your  burdens,  your  experience  reflects 
'that  of  hundreds  of  others.  It  may  be  a  mean  kind  of  misery 
that  loves  company.  The  knowledge  that  others  are  fighting 
and  toiling  bravely  along  the  same  line  with  ourselves;  that 
others  have  conquered  the  circumstances  which  oppose  us,  braces 
us  for  renewed  effort.  What  woman  has  done,  woman  may  do 
again. 

You  are  far  from  being  hopelessly  "mired ;"  you  have  what  is 
called  "a  good  fighting  chance"  for  life  and  usefulness.  You 
have  one  tremendous  advantage,  a  solid  foothold  to  begin  with,  in 
the  certainty  that  you  are  in  the  right  path. 

The  confident  assurance  of  this  is  half  the  battle.  The  other 
half  is  in  doing  your  work  as  it  comes  to  your  hand.  Don't  cul- 
tivate "a  long  reach,"  It  never  pays.  You  "don't  get  ahead  one 


142  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

inch."  Perhaps  God  means  for  you  to  move  by  quarter-inches. 
He  has  ten  thousand  ways  of  disciplining  His  children,  and  so 
teaching  them  to  make  the  very  best  of  themselves.  It  is  as  cer- 
tain as  that  He  rules  the  heavens,  that  He  knows  just  what  sort 
of  training  is  good  for  you.  Your  husband,  your  children,  your 
home,  are  your  working  capital,  a  loan  from  Him — your  talents, 
if  you  like  that  figure  better.  They  are  more  than  worth  all  the 
labor  and  the  worries  that  fall  into  your  lot. 

Husband,  children,  home,  work  and  worry  fill  to-day  full. 
Hence  the  folly,  "and  the  danger,  and  the  sin  of  "the  long  reach." 
The  one  coming  guest  whom  you  should  never  welcome  is  to-mor- 
row's possible  troubles.  The  children  are  not  to  be  educated  to- 
day, nor  is  John  ill  or  dead  at  the  present  moment,  and  the  "lone- 
some" maid  does  not  go  until  her  month  is  up.  The  faith  that 
removes  mountains  wears  short-sighted  glasses  and  brings  them 
to  bear  upon  the  work  in  hand. 

This  is  not  preaching,  but  practical  philosophy.  Try  how  it 
will  work  for  a  week — then  a  month — then  a  year. 

Keep  your  house  as  well  as  you  can  for  John,  for  the  babies, 
for  yourself,  and  let  the  neighbors  run  theirs  to  suit  themselves. 
Comparisons,  according  to  Dogberry,  are  "odorous."  Compari- 
son of  this  sort  savors  of  discontent  and  trouble.  Mind  your  own 
business  and  take  your  business  in  sections. 

"Magnify  your  office."  You  are  as  important  in  your  king- 
dom as  the  Queen  of  Great  Britain  and  the  Empress  of  the' 
Indias  was  in  hers,  and  have  not  one  worry  where  she  had  a 
thousand. 

Lastly,  read  in  full  the  text  relating  to  the  "bread  of  careful- 
ness." Look  it  up  and  take  it  as  the  application  of  my  lay- 
sermon. 


THE  FAMILY  LUNCHEON 

FIFTY  years  ago  luncheon  expressed  the  most  desultory  and 
haphazard  meal  possible  to  enlightened  humanity.  School  children 
carried  lunch-boxes  and  parcels  in  the  corners  of  book-bags  when 
they  left  home  after  breakfast.  Picnic,  berrying  and  nutting 
parties  stowed  away  bountiful  luncheons  in  baskets  and  hampers. 
There  were  three  meals  a  day,  breakfast,  dinner  and  supper,  or  in 
New  England,  tea.  Households  in  which  people  sat  down,  even 
upon  "occasions,"  to  a  luncheon  set  forth  in  orderly  fashion  upon 
a  table,  to  be  eaten  in  courses  with  knives  and  forks,  were  as 
few  as  those  in  which  afternoon  tea  was  served. 

The  change  that,  by  pushing  the  dinner  hour  nearer  the  close  of 
day  has  made  expedient,  if  not  needful,  a  substantial  noon-day 
meal,  has  come  about  naturally  and  gradually.  The  down-town 
of  men  workers  and  the  up-town  of  homes  have  receded  from 
each  other  until  the  head  of  the  house  can  no  longer  spare  time  to 
dine  at  home  at  midday.  And  the  stately  sequence  of  soup,  fish, 
meat  and  sweets  is  a  tedious  sham  when  there  are  no  men  to  be 
cooked  for.  In  the  country  the  increasing  army  of  commuters  have 
but  two  meals  at  home  during  the  week  day.  Wives,  compassion- 
ately reminiscent  of  the  hasty  bit  and  sup  that  stays  their  stomachs 
during  a  day's  shopping,  assume  that  the  respective  Johns  fare  no 
better.  John's  breakfast  is  a  touch-and-go  affair.  He  shall  have 
abundant  recompense  for  that  and  the  wretched  sandwich  and 
lukewarm  coffee  that  mocked  fainting  Nature  at  the  noon  spell. 

By  these  and  others  stages  luncheon  has  become  an  American 
institution,  and  has  come  to  stay.  It  is,  to  most  women,  the  pleas- 
antest  meal  of  the  day,  even  when  partaken  of  at  home,  with 
none  present  but  "the  children"  and  the  grown  women  of  the 
household.  It  breaks  up  the  monotony  of  daily  tasks;  it  is  eaten 

143 


144  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

without  flurry  or  hurry,  because  with  little  ceremony.  "Pick-up" 
dishes  and  accidental  entrees  figure  conspicuously  in  the  menu, 
things  for  which  men,  as  a  rule,  care  little  and  their  wives  and 
daughters  much.  Tea  and  toast,  cake  and  preserves  can  be  en- 
joyed without  fear  of  bantering  comment,  and  a  harmless  disli 
of  gossip  can  be  uncovered  without  provoking  severe  strictures. 
The  Ladies'  Luncheon,  which  has  grown  into  one  of  the  most 
important  of  modern  social  functions,  will  be  considered  later. 


LUNCHEON  DISHES 

OYSTERS 

Fricasseed  oysters 

Drain  the  liquor  from  a  quart  of  oysters  and  bring1  to  the  boil- 
ing point.  Stir  into  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cracker  crumbs 
rolled  very  fine.  Set  at  the  side  of  the  range  while  you  scald  a 
half  pint  of  cream  in  which  you  have  dissolved  a  tiny  pinch  of 
soda.  Meanwhile  melt  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  sauce- 
pan and  cook  the  oysters  in  this  until  their  edges  "ruffle,"  when 
they  must  be  removed  and  laid  on  tiny  slices  of  toast  on  a  hot 
water  dish.  Turn  the  melted  butter  remaining  in  the  saucepan 
into  the  oyster  liquor  and  pour  this  slowly,  stirring  all  the  time, 
on  the  hot  cream,  season  with  salt  and  paprika,  and  pour  immedi- 
ately over  the  oysters  and  toast. 

Deviled  oyster  pate's 

Drain  the  liquor  from  a  quart  of  oysters.  Chop  the  oysters  and 
mix  with  them  a  cup  of  cracker  crumbs,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
melted  butter  and  enough  oyster  liquor  to  soften  the  whole. 
Season  with  salt,  paprika  and  a  few  drops  of  Tabasco  sauce,  with 
a  teaspoonful  of  tomato  catsup.  Butter  small  pate-pans,  fill 
these  with  the  mixture,  sprinkle  cracker  crumbs  on  top,  and  bake. 

Creamed  oysters 

Drain  the  liquor  from  a  quart  of  oysters. 
Cook  together  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  two  of  flour, 
and  when  they  bubble  pour  upon  them  a  cupful  of  oyster  liquor 
10  145 


146  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

and  a  cupful  of  rich  milk  (cream  is  better),  in  which  you  have 
dropped  a  bit  of  soda  the  size  of  a  pea.  Stir  until  the  sauce 
thickens,  then  turn  into  it  the  oysters.  Cook  until  the  oysters  are 
heated  through;  add,  a  few  drops  at  a  time,  the  beaten  yolks  of 
two  eggs,  keeping  your  spoon  moving  all  the  time.  Do  not  allow 
it  to  cook  a  minute  after  the  last  drop  of  egg  is  added. 

Broiled  oysters  (No.  1) 

There  are  several  methods  of  broiling  oysters.  For  all  of  them 
a  good  large  oyster  is  needed.  I  give  the  simplest  method  first. 

Dry  your  oysters  on  a  towel ;  sprinkle  them  with  salt  and  a 
little  red  pepper  and  lay  them  within  an  oyster-broiler.  Turn 
them  so  that  they  may  brown  on  both  sides,  put  them  on  a  hot 
dish,  dress  at  once  with  butter,  and  serve  as  soon  as  this  has 
melted. 

Broiled  oysters  (No.  2) 

Drain  and  dry  your  oysters,  sprinkle  them  with  salt  and  pepper 
and  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs.  Broil  them  over  a  clear  fire,  turn- 
ing them  until  they  are  brown.  Serve  on  buttered  toast.  Put  a 
bit  of  butter  on  each  oyster  and  squeeze  on  it  a  few  drops  of 
lemon  juice. 

Broiled  oysters  with  brown  sauce 

Sprinkle  large  drained  oysters  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  in 
beaten  egg,  then,  roll  in  cracker-dust,  and  lay  on  the  ice  for  an  hour 
before  cooking  upon  an  oyster-broiler  over  a  clear  fire  to  a  delicate 
brown.  Put  on  a  hot  platter  and  cover  with  a  brown  sauce. 

Brown  sauce  for  broiled  oysters 

Cook  together  a  scant  tablespoon ful,  each,  of  butter  and 
browned  flour ;  pour  upon  a  half  pint  of  cleared  consomme ;  sea- 
son with  salt,  pepper,  a  dash  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  a  little 
mushroom  catsup  and  a  few  drops  of  kitchen  bouquet.  Add  a 
dash  of  lemon' juice  and  serve. 


LUNCHEON    DISHES  147 

Scalloped  oysters 

Drain  the  oysters  and  dispose  in  a  buttered  bake-dish  in  the 
following  order : 

In  the  bottom  have  a  light  layer  of  crushed  cracker  crumbs ; 
season  with  paprika  and  salt,  drop  bits  of  butter  upon  them  and 
wet  with  oyster  liquor  and  milk  mixed  in  equal  quantities.  Now 
comes  a  layer  of  oysters,  similarly  seasoned,  next  a  layer  of 
crumbs.  Go  on  thus  until  the  dish  is  full  or  the  materials  are 
used  up.  The  top  layer  should  be  crumbs  with  a  double  allow- 
ance of  butter.  Cover  closely  and  bake  half  an  hour,  then  uncover 
and  brown  lightly. 

Oyster  scallops 

Prepare  as  above,  but  bake  in  pate-pans  or  in  shells,  covering 
each  with  fine  crumbs.  In  tide-water  Virginia,  notably  near  Wil- 
liamsburg,  the  first  capital  of  the  state,  large,  fluted  shells  are 
dug  up  many  feet  below  the  surface,  which,  when  cleaned,  make 
the  best  possible  receptacle  for  scalloped  oysters.  All  who  have 
eaten  fresh  oysters,  just  from  York  river,  cooked  in  these  fossil 
remains,  will  agree  with  me  that  they  are  incomparably  savory. 

Send  sliced  lemon  around  with  them. 

Fried  oysters 

They  must  be  large,  plump  and  fresh.  Drain  well ;  spread  upon 
a  clean,  soft  towel,  and  cover  with  another,  patting  them  gently 
to  dry  them  on  both  sides.  Roll  each  over  and  over  in  salted 
cracker-crumbs;  set  on  the  ice  for  an  hour;  dust  more  crumbs 
over  them,  and  fry,  a  few  at  a  time,  in  boiling  hot  butter,  cotto- 
lene  or  other  fats. 

Drain,  garnish  with  parsley  and  serve. 

Oysters  creamed  and  baked 

Heat  a  large  spoonful  of  butter  in  a  clean  frying-pan,  rub  in  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  stir  to  a  white  roux.  Remove  to  the 
table.  Season  with  salt  and  white  pepper.  Have  ready  pate-pans 


148  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

or  scallop-shells  arranged  in  a  baking-pan ;  put  three  or  four  fine 
oysters  in  each,  cover  with  the  white  sauce  and  cook  in  a  quick 
oven  about  eight  minutes,  or  until  the  oysters  "ruffle."  Serve  in 
the  shells.  The  white  sauce  should  be  thick,  as  the  liquor  from 
the  oysters  will  thin  it. 

Stewed  oysters 

Drain  in  a  colander  one  quart  of  oysters.  Put  the  liquor  over 
the  fire  in  a  saucepan,  with  a  good  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Add 
half  as  much  boiling  water  as  you  have  liquor,  pepper  and  salt  to 
taste,  and  bring  to  a  boil.  As  soon  as  this  is  reached,  put  in  the 
drained  oysters  and  cook  quickly.  When  they  "ruffle" — in  five 
minutes  or  thereabouts — add  half  a  cupful  of  milk  heated  in  an- 
other vessel  with  a  tiny  bit  of  soda  to  prevent  curdling,  and  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  corn-starch  wet  with  cold  milk,  stirred  in.  Pour 
upon  the  oysters,  cook  for  one  minute  and  dish. 

Most  stewed  oysters  are  cooked  into  insipid  toughness. 

Oyster  stew 

Heat  the  liquor  from  a  quart  of  oysters  to  boiling.  While  it  is 
growing  hot  put  over  the  fire  in  another  vessel  a  pint  of  milk. 
When  this  is  heated  stir  into  it  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  rolled 
in  as  much  flour.  Drop  the  oysters  into  the  hot  liquid  and  let 
them  cook  until  they  ruffle.  Pour  the  milk  into  the  saucepan 
with  the  oysters,  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve. 

This  is  the  old-fashioned  stew  and  is  better  than  many  more 
modern  inventions. 

Oysters  fried  in  batter 

Make  a  rather  thick  batter  of  one  egg,  a  cupful  of  milk  and 
about  half  a  cupful  of  flour,  sifted  twice,  with  a  scant  half  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking-powder  and  half  as  much  salt.  Drain  fine 
oysters,  roll  each  in  flour,  let  them  stand  half  an  hour,  then  dip 
in  the  batter  and  fry  in  boiling  butter,  cottolene  or  other  fat. 
Drain  off  every  drop  of  grease  in  a  hot  colander  and  serve. 


•LUNCHEON    DISHES  149 

Steamed  oysters 

Wash  shell  oysters  and  arrange,  flat  side  up,  in  the  steamer. 
Cover  closely,  and  set  over  water  at  a  hard  boil.  In  twenty-five 
minutes  lift  the  steamer  from  the  fire.  If  the  shells  gape,  the 
oysters  are  done.  Pry  off  the  lower  shell,  put  a  bit  of  butter  on 
each,  and  send  at  once  to  table.  Pass  salt  and  pepper  and  sliced 
lemon  with  them.  They  are  delicious  if  eaten  piping  hot,  pre- 
serving the  flavor  far  better  than  stewed  or  panned  oysters  can 
hold  it. 

Panned  oysters 

Fit  rounds  of  buttered  toast  into  the  bottom  of  pate  pans ;  lay 
on  these  as  many  oysters  as  the  pans  will  hold,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  lay  a  dot  of  butter  upon  each  panful  and  set  in  your 
covered  roaster  to  cook  in  a  quick  oven  about  ten  minutes,  or 
until  the  oysters  "ruffle."  Serve  in  the  pans. 

An  appetizing  luncheon  or  supper  dish. 

i 
Creamed  panned  oysters 

Cook  as  in  last  recipe,  and  when  the  oysters  are  done  add  to 
each  pan  a  large  teaspoonful  of  cream  heated  to  scalding,  putting 
in  a  tiny  pinch  of  soda  to  prevent  curdling. 

Instead  of  the  cream  you  may  make  a  dish  of 

Deviled  panned  oysters 

When  ready  for  the  table  add  to  each  pan  a  dozen  drops  of 
Tabasco  sauce,  stirred  into  a  saltspoonful  of  French  mustard 
and  the  same  quantity  of  lemon  juice.  Beat  together,  stir  lightly 
into  the  oysters  with  a  fork,  heat  one  minute  and  serve. 

Curried  oysters 

Into  two  tablespoonfuls  of  white  roux  stir  a  few  drops  of  onion 
juice  and  a  teaspoonful  of  curry  powder.  Add  a  cupful  of  scald- 
ing oyster  liquor,  and,  when  well  incorporated,  pour  over  broiled 


150  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

or  fried  oysters  laid  upon  toast  in  a  chafing-dish.   Rice  croquettes 
are  nice  served  with  this  dish. 

Oyster  pie  or  pat6s 

Make  pastry  shells  or  a  pie  shell  of  puff  paste,  bake,  and  when 
cold,  fill  with  a  filling  made  thus :  Cook  together  a  tablespoonful, 
each,  of  butter  and  flour ;  pour  on  them  a  cup  of  cream  and  a  gill 
of  oyster  liquor  and  stir  to  a  smooth  sauce.  Drop  in  the  oysters 
and  cook,  stirring  steadily  until  the  edges  begin  to  curl ;  remove 
from  the  fire  and  beat  in  gradually  the  yolk  of  an  egg.  Pour  into 
the  pastry  shells  and  set  in  the  oven  until  the  pastry  and  contents 
are  very  hot. 

Oyster  cocktails  (No.  1) 

Into  a  tablespoonful  of  tomato  catsup  stir  a  half  tablespoonful 
of  grated  horseradish,  a  half  tablespoonful  of  Worcestershire 
sauce,  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice,  a  quarter  teaspoonful  of 
Tabasco  sauce,  half  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  and  a  saltspoon- 
f ul  of  salt.  Set  in  the  ice  for  an  hour.  Into  very  cold  little 
glasses  put  five  small  oysters  that  have  been  chilled,  and  fill  the 
glasses  with  the  cold  sauce. 

Oyster  cocktails  (No.  2) 

For  six  of  these  provide  thirty  small  oysters.  Make  a  sauce  by 
mixing  together  a  tablespoonful,  each,  of  lemon  juice  and  tomato 
catsup,  a  teaspoonful  of  grated  horseradish,  a  pinch,  each,  of  salt 
and  cayenne  pepper  and  six  drops  of  Tabasco  sauce.  Have  all 
very  cold,  and  the  cocktail  or  claret  glasses  thoroughly  chilled 
before  you  put  five  oysters  in  each  and  divide  the  sauce  equally 
between  them.  Lay  a  slice  of  lemon  on  top  of  each  cocktail. 

Oysters  with  mushrooms 

(Contributed) 

Drain  about  twenty-five  oysters,  put  them  into  a  hot  pan  with  a 
teaspoonful  of  butter  and  toss  them  until  they  are  plumped  and 


LUNCHEON    DISHES  151 

ruffled  on  both  sides.  Then  place  them  in  a  hot  dish.  To  the 
oyster  liquor  add  the  juice  of  half  a  pint  of  chopped  mushrooms 
and  enough  milk  to  make  a  pint.  Thicken  this  with  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  flour  moistened  with  a  little  milk  and  cook  three  minutes ; 
stir  in  the  mushrooms  and  cook  two  minutes  longer ;  add  a  half 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  half  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  onion  juice,  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  a  heaping 
tablespoonful  of  butter.  Put  in  the  oysters  and  as  soon  as  the 
preparation  reaches  the  boiling  point  turn  into  a  hot  dish. 

Pigs  in  blankets 

(Contributed) 

Take  large  oysters  and  allow  them  to  remain  in  the  following 
dressing:  The  juice  of  two  lemons,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and 
a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper.  Now  wrap  each  oyster  in  a  thin  slice 
of  bacon  and  fasten  with  a  toothpick,  fry  in  a  little  butter  until 
the  bacon  is  crisp.  Have  nicely  browned  slices  of  toast  and  lay 
the  oysters  on  them.  Garnish  with  parsley  and  serve. 

Baked  oysters 

(Contributed) 

Select  nice  large  oysters.  Wash  and  scrub  the  shells  free  from 
sand.  Put  them  into  a  baking-pan  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  until 
the  shells  open.  Carefully  remove  the  upper  shell ;  put  a  bit  of 
butter  on  each  oyster,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper  and  serve 
in  the  under  shells. 

Oysters  with  macaroni 

(Contributed) 

Put  about  four  ounces  of  macaroni  in  plenty  of  boiling  salted 
water  and  cook  for  twenty  minutes.  Take  out  and  drain  well. 
Into  a  buttered  baking-dish  put  a  layer  of  the  macaroni,  then  a 
layer  of  oysters,  dot  with  bits  of  butter,  season  with  pepper  and 
salt ;  follow  this  with  another  layer  of  macaroni,  another  of  ovs- 


152  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

ters  and  seasoning,  and  finish  with  a  layer  of  macaroni  sprinkled 
thickly  with  grated  cheese.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  twenty 
minutes. 

Oysters  sautes 

Drain  the  oysters  well,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  roll  in  fine 
bread  crumbs,  and  brown  in  a  little  clarified  butter  in  a  spider. 
Serve  on  a  hot  platter. 

Scalloped  clams 

Select  one  dozen  large  clams  in  the  shell  and  two  dozen  soft 
ones.  Use  care  not  to  injure  the  shells  which  are  to  be  used  in 
cooking.  Clean  the  shells  well  and  put  two  soft  clams  into  each 
one.  Add  to  each  a  touch  of  wiMte  pepper  and  one  and  a  half  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  minced  celery.  Cut  into  small  dice  a  few  slices  of 
bacon  and  add  four  of  these  to  each  shell ;  sprinkle  bread  crumbs 
over  the  top,  put  a  piece  of  butter  on  top  of  each  and  bake  in  the 
oven  till  brown. 

Roast  clams 

Wash  the  clams  and  lay  them  unopened  in  a  bake-pan,  and  set 
on  the  top  of  the  very  hot  range.  Cook  until  the  shells  open  wide, 
then  remove  the  upper  shell  and  transfer  the  lower — with  the 
clam  and  juice  still  in  it — to  a  hot  platter.  Squeeze  upon  each 
clam  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice  and  serve  in  the  shells.  Pass 
tomato  catsup  or  chili  sauce  with  them. 


Creamed  clams 

Drain  the  liquor  from  a  pint  of  opened  clams,  and  set  the  clams 
and  liquor  on  the  range  in  separate  double  boilers  to  heat.  Cook 
together  a  large  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  the  same  of  flour 
until  they  bubble,  then  pour  upon  them  the  heated  liquor  and 
cook  until  smooth  and  thick.  Have  ready  in  another  vessel  a 
pint  of  hot  cream,  in  which  a  pinch  of  soda  has  been  dissolved. 
Pour  this  gradually  upon  a  beaten  egg,  and  return  to  the  fire  for 


LUNCHEON    DISHES  153 

a  minute,  stirring  constantly.  Add  the  chopped  and  heated  clams 
to  the  thickened  liquor,  season  with  paprika,  stir  gradually  into 
the  hot  eggs  and  cream,  and  pour  upon  squares  of  lightly  but- 
tered toast. 

Clam  pates 

Drain  the  liquor  from  a  quart  of  clams.  Cook  together  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  and  one  of  flour,  and  pour  upon  them  a  cup  of 
hot  milk  (in  which  a  pinch  of  soda  has  been  dissolved)  and  a 
cup  of  clam  liquor.  Stew  until  you  have  a  smooth,  thick  sauce, 
and  then  add  the  chopped  clams.  Add  a  beaten  egg,  drop  by 
drop,  and  when  well  mixed  remove  from  the  fire,  season  and  set 
aside  to  cool.  Line  pate  pans  with  good  puff  paste,  fill  with  the 
clam  mixture,  put  pastry  over  the  tops  and  bake  to  a  light  brown. 
Serve  hot. 

Deviled  clams  (No.  1) 

Steam  in  the  shell  as  you  have  been  told  how  to  steam  oysters. 
When  they  gape,  open,  saving  all  the  liquor  in  a  bowl.  Cut  off 
the  dark  end  of  each  clam  and  set  aside  while  you  strain  the  liquor 
and  bring  it  quickly  to  a  boil.  Season  with  paprika,  butter,  lemon 
juice  and  a  few  drops  of  Tabasco  sauce;  put  in  the  clams  and  as 
soon  as  they  are  smoking  hot,  turn  into  a  heated  covered  dish. 
Send  around  buttered  bars  of  graham  bread,  or  strips  of  buttered 
toast,  or  hot  crackers,  buttered  lightly. 

Deviled  clams  (No.  2) 

Take  two  dozen  clams  from  the  shells,  drain  and  chop.  Scald  a 
cup  of  rich  milk  and  thicken  it  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 
rubbed  into  one  of  butter;  remove  from  the  fire,  add  gradually 
the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs,  paprika  and  celery  salt  to  taste, 
a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice  and  the  chopped  clams.  Wash  the 
clam  shells,  fill  with  this  mixture,  and  set  in  a  pan  in  the  oven  for 
ten  minutes.  Serve  very  hot/ 


154  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Lobster  £  la  Newburg 

Stir  a  pinch  of  baking  soda  into  a  pint  of  cream ;  put  this,  the 
beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs,  and  a  wineglassful  of  sherry  in  a 
double  boiler  and  cook,  stirring,  until  thick.  Now  add  a  pint  of 
lobster  meat,  seasoned  with  salt  and  cayenne,  and  stir  until  smok- 
ing hot ;  then  serve. 

Lobster  timbales 

Mix  together  a  cup  of  cold  boiled  lobster,  minced  very  fine, 
eight  blanched  and  chopped  almonds,  and  season  with  celery  salt 
and  white  pepper.  Stir  in  a  half  pint  of  whipped  cream  and 
the  whites  of  four  eggs  beaten  very  stiff  and  work  in  an  ordinary 
Hollandaise  sauce.  Turn  into  timbale  molds  and  bake. 

Lobster  cutlets 

Two  cupfuls  of  minced  lobster  seasoned  with  a  quarter  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  a  dash  of  paprika,  and  one  teaspoonful,  each,  of 
lemon  juice  and  minced  parsley.  Moisten  with  one  cup  of  thick 
drawn  butter  and  the  beaten  yolk  of  one  egg.  When  cool,  shape 
into  cutlets ;  egg  and  crumb  them,  let  them  stand  for  one  hour  on 
ice,  then  fry  in  deep,  hot  butter. 

Creamed  lobster 

Two  cups  of  boiled  lobster  meat,  cut  into  dice.  Season  with 
paprika,  salt  and  lemon  juice.  Heat  a  great  spoonful  of  butter  in 
a  saucepan  and  turn  in  the  lobster  dice.  Toss  until  smoking  hot, 
add  half  a  cup  of  cream,  heated  (with  a  bit  of  soda),  then  beat  into 
it  the  whipped  yolks  of  three  eggs.  Stir  for  one  minute,  and  dish. 

Send  hot,  buttered  crackers  around  with  it. 

Curry  of  lobster 

Heat  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and  cook  in  it  a 
tablespoonful  of  sliced  onion.  Strain  out  the  onion,  return  the 
butter  to  the  pan,  and  stir  to  a  roux  with  a  level  tablespoonful  of 


LUNCHEON    DISHES  155 

flour  and  a  teaspoonful  of  curry  powder.  Add  four  tablespoonfuls 
of  cream,  heated  (not  forgetting  the  pinch  of  soda)  ;  lastly  two 
cupfuls  of  lobster  meat,  cut  into  dice.  Stir  steadily  until  very  hot, 
and  dish. 

Note 

All  of  these  preparations  of  lobster  may  be  made  with  canned 
lobster,  although  they  must  always  be  inferior  in  flavor  to  those 
made  from  the  fresh  fish.  If  canned  lobster  be  used,  drain  oft 
every  drop  of  the  liquor  and  have  the  meat  as  dry  as  possible  be- 
fore it  goes  into  the  manufacture  of  the  proposed  dish. 

Scalloped  lobsters 
(Contributed) 

Cover  the  bottom  of  a  baking-dish  with  fine  bread-crumbs.  On 
this  put  a  layer  of  lobster  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt;  add 
another  layer  of  crumbs,  another  of  lobster  and  so  on,  until  the 
dish  is  filled.  Moisten  with  milk,  strew  with  bits  of  butter  and 
bake  about  twenty  minutes. 

Deviled  lobster 

Two  cups  of  lobster  meat,  cut  into  dice.  Reserve  the  coral, 
rubbing  it  to  a  paste  with  butter  and  lemon  juice.  Heat  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  the  lobster  meat  high- 
ly seasoned  with  paprika,  French  mustard,  ten  drops  of  Tabasco, 
or  double  the  quantity  of  Worcestershire  sauce  and  salt.  As 
soon  as  it  bubbles  turn  in  the  coral  paste  and  let  it  just  come  to  a 
boil  before  serving. 

Deviled  crab 

Pick  the  meat  from  boiled  crabs,  taking  care  not  to  break  the 
shells.  Flake  the  meat  and  mix  with  it  a  tablespoonful  of  melted 
butter,  cayenne  and  salt  to  taste  and  a  tablespoonful-  of  lemon 
juice.  Return  to  the  shells,  sprinkle  with  bread  crumbs  and  bits 
of  butter,  and  bake. 


156  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Crabs  and  champignons 

Two  cupfuls  of  crab  meat,  cut  into  dice,  and  half  a  can  of  cham- 
pignons (mushrooms),  cut  into  dice  of  the  same  size.  Make  a 
roux  in  a  frying-pan  of  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  one 
heaping  tablespoonful  of  flour,  stirred  until  smooth.  Mix  the 
crab  meat  and  champignons  well  together,  season  with  paprika, 
salt  and  a  dash  of  onion  juice ;  turn  into  the  smoking  roux;  cook 
three  minutes ;  remove  from  the  fire ;  add  quickly  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream,  heated,  with  a  pinch  of  soda;  set  over  the 
fire  for  one  minute,  add  a  glass  of  sherry,  and  serve  hot. 

Lobsters  cooked  in  this  way,  substituting  the  fresh  mushrooms 
for  the  canned,  are  delicious. 

Crabs  en  coquille  (No.  1) 

Two  cupfuls  of  crab  meat,  cut  into  neat  dice,  and  set  on  ice  un- 
til needed.  One  heaping  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  an  even 
tablespoonful  of  butter.  Four  tablespoonfuls  of  cream.  Salt, 
cayenne,  ten  drops  of  Tabasco  sauce  or  twice  as  much  Worces- 
tershire. A  little  boiling  water.  Pinch  of  soda  in  the  cream. 

Make  a  roux  of  butter  and  flour.  Season  the  crab  meat  and 
stir  into  the  roux,  thinning  with  just  enough  boiling  water  to 
make  the  mixture  manageable.  When  smoking-hot,  take  from 
the  fire,  beat  in  the  hot  cream  and  fill  crab  shells  with  the  paste, 
rounding  to  suit  the  shape  of  the  shell.  Sift  fine  crumbs,  salted 
and  peppered,  over  each,  put  bits  of  butter  on  top,  and  brown  on 
the  upper  grating  of  the  oven. 

Crabs  en  coquille  (No.  2) 

(A  Cuban  dish.) 

Prepare  as  directed  in  foregoing  recipe,  but  mix  with  the  crab 
meat  the  pulp  of  three  tomatoes,  cut  into  bits  and  drained  dry,  a 
green  pepper,  seeded  and  minced,  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of  the 
inside  of  an  eggplant  (boiled  and  cold),  cut  small ;  also  half  a  cup 
of  fine  bread  (not  cracker)  crumbs.  Season  with  paprika,  salt, 


SWEETBREAD  CUTLETS  AND  SARATOGA 
POTATOES,  GARNISH  OF  CELERY  TOPS 


CRAB  SCALLOPED  IN    SHELL  GARNISHED 
WITH   LETTUCE  AND  LEMON 


LOBSTER    CUTLETS    AND    WHIPPED    POTATO 


LUNCHEON    DISHES  157 

and  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice.  Stir  into  the  roux  over  the 
fire,  adding  a  little  boiling  water  if  too  thick,  until  very  hot,  when 
remove  to  a  table  and  beat  in  the  whipped  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Fill 
your  crab  shells,  sift  fine  crumbs  on  top,  dot  with  butter  and  cook, 
covered,  ten  minutes  before  browning  upon  the  upper  grating. 


SHRIMPS 

THE  wee  shell-fish  are  comparatively  little  known  in  many  parts 
of  the  United  States  except  as  they  come  in  cans.  Even  in  this 
shape  they  lend  themselves  to  many  pleasing  combinations  con- 
venient for  luncheons  and  picnics. 

Open  the  cans  several  hours  before  they  are  to  be  used,  turn 
out  the  contents  into  an  open  bowl,  rinse  in  cold  water,  drain  and 
set  on  ice,  or  in  some  very  cold  place. 

Buttered  shrimps 

Heat  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  saucepan;  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour,  and,  when  bubbling  hot,  a  tablespoonful  of  to- 
mato sauce,  paprika  and  salt  to  taste,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  onion 
juice.  Boil  one  minute  and  add  a  can  of  shrimps,  washed  and 
drained.  Stir  the  mixture  four  minutes  over  a  brisk  fire  and 
serve. 

Pass  thin  slices  of  buttered  brown  bread  with  them. 

Shrimps  en  coquille 

Prepare  as  directed  on  preceding  page,  in  crabs  en  coquille,  No. 
i.  They  are  very  good. 

Scallop  of  shrimps  and  mushrooms 

Cook  precisely  as  in  recipe  on  preceding  page,  for  crabs  and 
champignons. 

Curried  shrimps 

Make  a  roux  of  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  a  little 
less  flour ;  thin  with  one  small  cupful  of  boiling  water ;  add  an 


158  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

even  tablespoonful  of  best  curry  powder  and  one  teaspoonful  of 
onion  juice.  Stir  for  one  minute  and  add  a  can  of  shrimps, 
washed  and  drained.  Cook  five  minutes  and  serve. 

Shrimps  and  eggs 
(  A  Cuban  dish.) 

Make  a  roux  of  one  large  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one  of 
flour;  when  it  bubbles  add  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice  and  twice 
as  much  green  sweet  pepper,  minced  fine,  with  salt  and  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  sugar.  Boil  up  and  stir  in  a  can  of  shrimps,  pre- 
viously washed  and  drained.  Cook  for  five  minutes  ;  remove  to  the 
table  and  mix  in  gradually,  stirring  all  the  time,  four  eggs  which 
have  been  beaten  just  enough  to  break  the  yolks ,  Return  to  the 
fire  and  stir  until  the  eggs  begin  to  "set." 

Maryland  terrapin 

Boil  the  terrapin  until  the  skin  on  the  claws  is  sufficiently  soft 
to  rub  off  at  the  slightest  touch.  Take  from  the  shell,  and  re- 
move every  particle  of  entrails  and  lungs.  Place  the  meat  in  a 
chafing-dish.  Add  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  the  quantity  of  each 
depending  on  the  quantity  of  flesh.  Let  it  simmer  until  the  es- 
sence and  butter  reach  the  consistency  of  light  gravy.  Serve  hot. 
If  desired,  add  a  little  good  sherry  while  eating,  but  not  while 
cooking.  Use  no  spices,  dressing  or  other  ingredients  that  can 
detract  from  the  flavor. 


SARDINES 

THE  adaptability  of  the  sardine  to  a  variety  of  preparations  that 
are  appetizing  and  delicious  is  not  generally  recognized  by  the 
housekeeper.  The  tiny  fish  may  be  used  as  the  foundation  of 
many  nice,  light  dishes,  and  during  the  heated  months  form  a 
pleasing  variety  upon  the  heavier  lunch  or  supper  dishes  com- 
posed of  meat.  It  is  always  well  to  open  a  box  of  sardines  an 


LUNCHEON    DISHES  159 

hour  or  two  before  the  contents  are  to  be  used.  Drain  the  fish 
from  the  oil  in  which  they  are  packed,  as  this  is  too  rich  to  be 
digestible,  and  does  not  improve  the  flavor  of  the  fish.  In  buy- 
ing sardines,  choose  the  more  expensive  quality  rather  than  the 
cheap,  so-called  sardines,  which  are  often  only  American  minnows 
packed  down  in  oil. 

Baked  sardines 

Toast  crustless  slices  of  graham  bread  and  butter  them.  Put 
the  drained  sardines  on  a  tin  plate,  squeeze  over  them  a  few  drops 
of  lemon  juice  and  sprinkle  with  fine  cracker  crumbs.  Set  the 
plate  in  the  oven  and  bake  the  fish  for  ten  minutes.  Transfer  the 
sardines  to  the  toast,  and  keep  hot  while  you  make  the  following 
sauce : 

Strain  a  half-pint  of  liquor  from  a  can  of  tomatoes  and  put  it 
into  a  porcelain-lined  saucepan  to  heat.  Rub  together  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  butter  and  one  of  flour,  stir  these  into  the  tomato  liquor, 
and,  as  the  sauce  thickens,  add  a  half-teaspoonful  of  onion  juice 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  granulated  sugar,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Boil  up  once  and  pour  over  the  sardines  and  toast. 

You  may,  if  you  like,  substitute  white  bread  for  brown,  and 
omit  the  tomato  sauce  entirely. 

Broiled  sardines 

Drain  the  sardines  free  from  oil  and  lay  them  on  a  fine  oyster- 
broiler.  Broil  over  a  clear  fire  for  five  minutes.  Butter  heated 
saltine  wafers,  and  lay  a  sardine  on  each  of  these.  Squeeze  four 
drops  of  lemon  juice  and  two  drops  of  onion  juice  on  each  fish 
and  send  to  the  table  very  hot. 

Canapes  of  sardines 

Cut  thin  bread  into  crescents  or  triangles.  The  crescent  is  tHe 
true  canape  shape.  Toast  the  bread.  Flake  sardines  fine  with  a 
fork ;  work  into  them  a  teaspoonful  of  melted  butter,  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  lemon  juice,  a  pinch  of  salt  and  four  or  five  drops  of  Ta- 


160  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

basco  sauce.  Spread  the  toast  first  with  butter,  then  with  the  sar- 
dine mixture,  place  on  a  tin  plate,  cover,  and  set  in  the  oven  until 
very  hot. 

Grilled  sardines 

Cut  as  many  strips  of  bread  as  you  have  sardines,  making  each 
piece  a  little  longer  and  broader  than  the  fish.  Toast  or  fry 
these.  Roll  your  sardines  in  egg  and  then  in  fine  cracker  crumbs, 
and  fry  to  a  light  brown.  Lay  a  sardine  on  each  strip  of  toast 
and  garnish  with  lemon  and  parsley. 

Sardine  eggs  (cold) 

Boil  six  eggs  hard  and  throw  into  cold  water.  Remove  the 
shells  and  cut  the  eggs  in  halves,  removing  the  yolks.  Pound 
these  yolks  to  a  paste  with  a  tablespoonful  of  salad  oil,  and  work 
into  this  paste  eight  skinned  and  minced  sardines.  Now  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  and  a  saltspoonful,  each,  of  salt,  pep- 
per and  mustard.  Form  into  balls,  and  fit  these  into  the  halved 
whites  of  the  eggs,  trimming  off  the  bottoms  of  the  whites  so 
that  they  will  stand  on  end.  Serve  garnished  with  water-cress, 
and  with  or  without  a  mayonnaise  dressing. 

Sardine  eggs  (hot) 

After  making  out  the  "eggs"  as  directed  in  foregoing  recipe, 
put  into  a  saucepan  with  a  broad  bottom  and  closely  fitting  lid,  and 
set  in  a  pot  of  water  at  a  hard  boil  on  the  range.  Do  not  let  the 
water  get  into  the  inner  vessel.  In  twenty  minutes  they  should 
be  heated  through.  Transfer  to  a  hot  dish  and  pour  over  them 
a  hot  Bearnaise  sauce.  (See  Sauces.) 

Sardines  in  cups 

Cut  rounds  of  stale  bread  more  than  half  an  inch  thick.  Press 
a  smaller  cutter  inside  of  the  larger  round  half  way  through  the 
bread.  Scrape  out  the  crumb  from  the  inner  round,  leaving 
sides  and  bottom  whole.  Set  upon  the  upper  grating  of  a  hot 


LUNCHEON    DISHES  161 

oven  until  crisped  to  a  light  brown.  Turn  and  toast  the  bottom 
of  the  cups ;  then  butter  well.  Skin  and  behead  eight  sardines. 
Scrape  to  a  smooth  pulp  and  mix  with  this  sauce : 

Make  a  roux  of  a  large  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  nearly  as 
much  flour,  thin  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  boiling  water,  season 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  anchovy  paste  and  one  of  Worcestershire 
sauce ;  stir  in  the  sardine  pulp,  and  when  it  begins  to  bubble  fill 
the  buttered  bread  cups,  which  should  have  been  kept  hot.  Send 
around  sliced  lemon  with  them. 

Anchovies  an  lit 

Toast  thin  rounds  of  bread ;  butter  and  cover  thickly  with  the 
yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  run  through  the  vegetable  press.  Make 
a  hollow  in  the  mass  of  powdered  egg  and  lay  a  curled  anchovy  in 
the  little  pit  thus  formed. 

Set  in  a  hot  oven  for  five  minutes,  and  serve. 

Anchovy  toast 

Cut  the  crust  from  slices  of  bread  and  toast  to  a  light  brown. 
Butter  lightly,  and  spread  with  anchovy  paste.  Lay  the  toast 
upon  a  hot  platter  in  the  oven  while  you  make  a  sauce  by  cooking 
together  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  the  same  quantity  of 
browned  flour,  and  when  they  are  blended  pouring  upon  them 
a  pint  of  beef  stock.  Stir  to  a  smooth,  brown  sauce,  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  kitchen  bouquet,  six  stoned  and  chopped  olives,  pep- 
per to  taste,  and  a  very  little  salt.  Pour  this  sauce  over  and 
around  the  anchovy  toast. 

Anchovy  croutons 

Cut  white  bread  into  three-inch  triangles,  and  fry  them  in  but- 
ter to  a  pale  brown.     Drain,  and  spread  each  lightly  with  anchovy 
paste,  and  on  this  lay  a  slice  of  tomato.    Dust  with  salt  and  pep- 
per and  serve  cold, 
ii 


162  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Caviar  in  saucers 

Prepare  rounds  of  bread  as  directed  for  "Sardines  in  Cups," 
and  keep  hot  while  you  make  the  filling  thus  : 

Two  tablespoonfuls  of  caviar,  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice, 
one-fourth  teaspoonful  of  curry  powder,  and  the  same  of  paprika. 
Put  all  into  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  and  stir  until  quite  hot ;  then 
put  it  into  the  hot  and  crisped  "saucers." 

Caviar  strips 

Cut  an  equal  number  of  slices  of  brown  and  of  white  bread — 
quite  thin — and  butter  on  one  side.  Trim  into  neat  oblongs  and 
spread  the  white  bread  with  caviar.  Fit  a  brown  strip  over  each 
piece  thus  prepared,  press  lightly  and  firmly  together,  and  lay, 
log-cabin-wise,  in  a  tray  lined  with  a  doily. 

A  curry  of  salmon 

Open  a  can  of  salmon  two  hours  before  using,  and  remove  all 
bits  of  skin  and  bone.  Pour  two  tablespoonfuls  of  olive  oil  into 
a  frying-pan  and  fry  in  it  a  minced  onion.  When  the  onion  is 
brown  stir  into  the  oil  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  mixed  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  curry  powder,  and  when  these  are  blended  add  a  large 
coffee-cupful  of  boiling  water.  Season  and  stir  for  a  moment, 
and  turn  the  salmon  into  the  mixture.  Cook  for  two  minutes  and 
serve.  Pass  sliced  lemon  with  this  dish. 

Salmon  mayonnaise 

Have  boiling  in  a  kettle  a  gallon  of  salted  water  to  which  a  gill 
of  vinegar  has  been  added.  Lay  carefully  in  this  two  salmon 
steaks  and  let  them  boil  very  slowly.  Test  with  a  silver  fork,  and 
when  done,  but  not  at  all  broken,  lift  carefully  from  the  water  and 
drain.  Set  aside  until  cool,  then  keep  on  the  ice  until  wanted. 
Lay  the  steaks  on  a  cold  platter  and  pour  a  very  thick  mayon- 
naise over  them.  Spread  this  smooth  with  a  knife  that  the  steaks 
may  be  covered.  Garnish  with  an  abundance  of  water-cress. 


LUNCHEON    DISHES  163 

Scallop  of  salmon 

Open  a  can  of  salmon  several  hours  before  it  is  needed.  Re- 
move all  bits  of  skin  and  bone,  and  flake  the  fish  into  small  pieces. 
Make  a  white  sauce  and  stir  the  salmon  into  this.  Pour  into  a 
buttered  pudding-dish,  cover  thickly  with  bread  crumbs  and  bits 
of  butter,  and  bake. 

Beauregard  cod          i 

Boil  a  pound  of  cod  the  day  before  it  is  needed  and  let  it  get 
cold.  Flake  to  pieces  with  a  silver  fork,  removing  all  bits  of 
skin  and  bone.  Next  day  heat  a  pint  of  fresh  milk  in  a  double 
boiler,  thicken  this  with  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  rubbed  into  one  of 
butter,  and  stir  in  the  flaked  fish.  Season  to  taste  and  cook  for 
five  minutes.  Turn  upon  squares  of  buttered  toast.  Have  ready 
four  hard-boiled  eggs,  the  yolks  powdered,  the  whites  cut  into 
rings.  Sprinkle  the  yellow  powder  over  the  fish  and  lay  the 
white  rings  about  the  edge  of  the  platter. 

Baked  smelts  with  oyster  forcemeat 

Choose  fine,  large  smelts  of  uniform  size.  Clean,  wash  and 
wipe,  and  fill  them  with  a  forcemeat  made  of  one  part  fine 
crumbs,  three  parts  finely-minced  oysters,  seasoned  with  paprika, 
a  little  minced  parsley,  salt  and  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter 
to  a  cupful  of  the  forcemeat.  Sew  the  fish  up  with  fine  thread 
and  long  stitches ;  lay  in  your  covered  roaster  with  a  little  boiling 
water  under  the  grating  and  bake  twenty  minutes,  basting  once 
with  butter  when  nearly  done.  Serve  with  lemon  sauce. 

They  make  a  delicious  fish  course  for  luncheon.  The  threads 
should  be  clipped  carefully  that  the  fish  may  not  be  torn  as  they 
are  drawn  out  before  serving. 

Baked  smelts 

Clean,  wipe,  roll  in  melted  butter,  then  in  cracker  dust,  set  on 
ice  to  stiffen  for  an  hour,  and  cook  fifteen  minutes  in  your  cov- 
ered roaster.  Send  sliced  lemon  around  with  this  dish. 


164  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Creamed  shad 

(Contributed) 

Make  a  white  sauce  by  cooking  together  a  tablespoonful  of  but- 
ter and  a  heaping  one  of  flour,  and,  when  they  are  blended,  pour- 
ing upon  them  a  pint  of  unskimmed  milk.  Add  a  few  drops  of 
onion  juice,  then  pour  slowly  upon  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs. 
Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  teaspoonful  of  minced  parsley. 
Into  this  sauce  stir  a  pint  of  cold,  cooked  shad  that  has  been  freed 
of  bones  and  flaked  very  fine.  Turn  into  a  greased  pudding-dish, 
sprinkle  with  crumbs  and  bake  for  twenty  minutes  or  until  heated 
through. 

A  "pick-up"  of  fish 

This  is  a  good  dish  for  Saturday  when  you  are  gathering  up 
left-overs  to  clear  decks  for  the  Sunday  which  is  to  begin  the  new 
week. 

A  cupful  of  cold,  cooked  fish — cod,  halibut,  salmon  or  any  other 
firm  fish;  the  same  quantity  of  cold,  cooked  macaroni,  cut  into 
small  bits;  half  a  cupful  of  tomato  sauce,  one  cupful  of  oyster 
liquor,  which  any  fish  dealer  will  give  you ;  a  heaping  tablespoon- 
ful of  butter  and  the  same  of  flour,  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice 
and  the  same  of  minced  parsley.  Salt  and  paprika  to  taste. 

Heat  the  butter  in  a  saucepan ;  stir  in  the  flour,  and,  when  it 
bubbles,  the  tomato  sauce,  the  oyster  liquor  and  the  seasoning. 
Boil  up  once,  add  fish  and  macaroni;  heat  to  a  bubble  without 
stirring,  and  turn  into  a  deep  dish. 

Fish  scallop 

Prepare  as  above,  but  instead  of  stewing  turri*all  into  a  buttered 
pudding-dish  as  soon  as  macaroni  and  fish  are  added  to  the  hot 
sauce ;  strew  crumbs  on  top,  stick  bits  of  butter  over  it  and  bake, 
covered,  half  an  hour.  Then  brown. 


LUNCHEON    DISHLS  165 

Baked  chowder 

Fry  a  small  sliced  onion  in  a  large  spoonful  of  butter ;  strain  and 
return  butter  to  the  frying-pan.  Have  ready  two  pounds  of  cod 
or  other  firm  fish  cut  into  inch  squares ;  put  into  the  hot  butter  and 
toss  and  turn  until  they  are  well  coated ;  pack  the  fish  in  a  buttered 
bake-dish  alternately  with  slices  of  parboiled  potatoes,  fat  salt 
pork,  minced  fine  (about  half  a  pound  in  all),  bits  of  butter  rolled 
in  flour,  minced  parsley  and  two  tomatoes  chopped.  Season  a 
large  cupful  of  oyster  liquor  with  paprika  and  salt,  and  pour  over 
all.  Cover  with  split  Boston  crackers  that  have  been  soaked  in 
milk  for  half  an  hour,  fit  on  a  lid  and  bake,  covered,  one  hour. 
Then  brown.  A  savory  family  dish. 

A  "Cape  Cod  folks"  tid-bit 

Soak  two  pounds  of  salt  cod  over  night.  In  the  morning  wash 
and  scrub  it  with  a  whisk  to  remove  lingering  crystals  of  salt  and 
cover  with  hot  water  in  which  an  onion  has  been  boiled.  Let  it 
stand  in  this  until  the  water  is  cold.  Take  out  the  fish  and  lay 
between  two  towels  until  perfectly  dry.  Broil  then  on  both  sides, 
turning  twice ;  lay  it  in  a  hot  water  dish ;  break  to  pieces  with  a 
fork,  and  cover  well  with  hot  drawn  butter,  seasoned  with  pepper, 
lemon  juice  and  minced  parsley.  Let  it  stand  (covered)  for  ten 
minutes  over  the  hot  water  before  serving,  and  you  will  be  sur- 
prised by  the  excellent  dish  contrived  of  such  homely  materials. 

Halibut  and  cheese  scallop 

Have  ready  two  cupfuls  (less,  if  you  happen  not  to  have  as 
much)  of  cold,  cooked  halibut,  flaked  rather  coarsely  with  a  fork. 
Make  a  good  white  sauce — drawn  butter — based  upon  milk  instead 
of  water.  Butter  a  bake-dish  and  fill  it  with  alternate  layers  of 
the  fish,  sauce  and  grated  cheese  (very  mild),  using  altogether 
about  four  tablespoonfuls  of  the  latter,  and  cover  the  top  with 
crumbs.  Bake  half  an  hour  in  a  quick  oven,  and  serve  hot. 
Keep  covered  until  ten  minutes  before  serving,  when  brown. 


i66  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Deviled  halibut  or  cod 

Pick  cold,  cooked  fish  into  bits  with  a  silver  fork.  Make  a 
forcemeat  of  bread-crumbs,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  run  through 
colander  or  vegetable  press,  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  one 
of  minced  parsley,  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  paprika  and  salt. 
Mix  with  the  fish,  wet  up  with  oyster  liquor  and  fill  scallop  shells 
with  the  mixture.  Cover  with  fine  crumbs,  pepper  and  salt  them, 
put  a  dot  of  butter  upon  each  scallop  and  bake  quickly  to  a  light 
brown. 

EGGS 

Curried  eggs 

Boil  seven  eggs  hard  and  throw  into  cold  water  to  loosen  the 
shells.  Remove  these  without  tearing  or  breaking  the  eggs,  and 
cut  round  in  slices  nearly  half  an  inch  thick.  Have  ready  in  a 
saucepan  a  large  cup  of  gravy  from  which  the  fat  has  been  re- 
moved. Chicken  gravy  or  stock  is  especially  nice  for  this  pur- 
pose. Season  well  with  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  half  a  cup- 
ful of  strained  tomato  sauce,  with  pepper  and  salt.  Boil  up, 
thicken  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  browned  flour  and  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  curry  powder,  and  simmer  together  three  minutes. 

Arrange  the  sliced  eggs  upon  a  chafing-dish  or  hot-water  dish, 
pour  the  curry  sauce  over  them ;  set  in  the  hot  oven  for  three  or 
four  minutes,  covered,  to  get  heated  through,  and  send  to  table 
in  the  hot-water  dish. 

Serve  boiled  rice  with  it. 

Banana  toast 

Is  a  pleasing  accompaniment  to  curried  eggs. 

Remove  the  crust  from  graham  bread  and  cut  it  into  thin 
slices.  Spread  one  piece  with  thin  slices  of  banana  and  lay  an- 
other slice  of  bread  upon  this.  Press  the  two  pieces  together  that 
they  may  not  fall  apart,  and  toast  quickly  to  a  light  brown.  Keep 
hot  in  the  oven  until  wanted,  as  these  sandwiches  are  not  good 
when  cold. 


LUNCHEON    DISHES  167 

Egg  timbales 

Beat  six  eggs  light  and  stir  into  them  a  half-pint  of  rich  milk, 
a  pinch  of  soda  and  salt  and  white  pepper  to  taste.  Pour  into 
greased  muffin-pans ;  set  these  in  an  outer  pan  of  boiling  water, 
and  Ipake  until  the  egg  is  "set."  Turn  the  timbales  out  upon  a 
platter  and  pour  a  rich  brown  sauce  around  them. 

Baked  omelet 

Break  five  eggs,  the  whites  and  yolks  separately.  Soak  the 
crumbs  of  a  slice  of  white  bread  in  a  half-cupful  of  milk  for  ten 
minutes.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  thoroughly  and  whip  the 
whites  stiff.  Stir  the  bread  and  milk  into  the  yolks,  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  a  saltspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  stir  in 
the  whites  of  the  eggs  lightly — just  enough  to  mix  them.  Turn 
into  a  well-greased  pudding-dish  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  Do 
not  let  the  omelet  crust  over  too  quickly,  but  put  a  piece  of  paper 
over  the  top  for  a  few  minutes.  Uncover  and  brown. 

Deviled  eggs 

Boil  a  dozen  eggs  hard,  throw  into  cold  water,  and  at  the  end 
of  half  an  hour  remove  the  shells.  Cut  the  eggs  carefully  in 
half,  extract  the  yolks  and  rub  these  to  a  paste  with  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  salad  oil,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  a  half-tea- 
spoonful  of  made  mustard,  a  dash  of  paprika,  two  or  three  drops 
of  Tabasco  sauce,  and  salt  to  taste.  Form  this  paste  into  balls, 
put  the  balls  back  into  the  halved  whites  and  fit  the  whites  into 
place.  Run  a  wooden  toothpick  through  the  two  halves  of  each 
egg  to  hold  them  together.  Wrap  every  egg  in  waxed  or  tissue 
paper  to  keep  it  from  becoming  dry.  Eat  cold,  with  or  without 
mayonnaise  dressing. 

Omelets  caches 

Wash  and  wipe  six  large,  smooth  tomatoes  of  uniform  size. 
Cut  a  piece  from  the  blossom  end  of  each  and  lay  aside.  Scoop 
out  the  pulp  carefully,  not  to  break  the  walls  of  the  tomato.  Set 


i68  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

together  in  an  open  pudding-dish  and  put  this  into  a  brisk  oven 
until  the  tomatoes  are  smoking-hot,  but  not  until  they  break  and 
collapse.  Have  ready  the  pulp  you  have  extracted,  minced  and 
stewed,  seasoned  with  butter,  pepper,  salt,  a  little  onion  juice  and 
sugar.  Drain  off  most  of  the  juice.  Beat  four  eggs  light,  add 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  heated  to 
a  roux  with  one  of  flour,  mix  quickly  with  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  the  drained  tomato,  and  fill  the  tomato  shells  with  them.  Fit 
on  the  tops  and  set  in  a  shallow  pan  upon  the  top  grating  of  a 
quick  oven.  Five  minutes  should  cook  them.  Slip  a  spatula  un- 
der each  tomato,  transfer  to  a  hot  platter  and  serve  at  once. 
Pass  thin  slices  of  brown  bread  with  them. 

Chicken  or  turkey  timbales 

Boil  eight  eggs  very  hard  and  leave  them  in  cold  water  for 
two  or  more  hours.  Take  the  shells  off,  cut  in  half,  and  extract 
the  yolks.  Chop  the  whites  before  running  them  through  a  veg- 
etable press.  Now  mix  with  them  four  heaping  tablespoonfuls 
of  the  breast  of  chicken  or  turkey  minced  as  finely  as  possible ; 
season  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  paprika  and  celery 
salt  to  taste,  and  mix  to  a  white  paste  with  the  whites  of  three 
eggs  beaten  to  a  standing  froth.  Have  ready  enough  buttered 
"nappies"  or  pate  pans  to  hold  the  mixture ;  fill  them,  set  in  a  pan 
of  hot  water  and  bake  twenty  minutes  in  a  quick  oven. 

Turn  out  upon  a  hot  platter ;  pour  a  good  white  sauce  about  the 
base,  heap  a  teaspoonful  of  the  powdered  yolks  on  the  top  of  each 
and  serve. 

The  yolks  are  prepared  by  running  through  a  colander  or,  bet- 
ter still,  a  vegetable  press. 

Scallop  of  chicken  and  eggs 

Strew  fine,  dry,  buttered  crumbs  over  the  bottom  of  a  buttered 
baking-dish,  then  put  in  a  layer  of  cold,  cooked  chicken  cut  into 
small  dice.  Cook  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  onion  in  a  tablespoon- 
ful of  butter  till  slightly  colored,  add  a  cupful  of  milk,  and  when 


LUNCHEON    DISHES  169 

hot  stir  in  half  a  cupful  of  dry  bread-crumbs.  Add  a  teaspoonful 
of  chopped  parsley  and  a  little  salt  and  paprika.  Let  it  cool  until 
blood-warm,  then  stir  in  two  well-beaten  eggs,  and  pour  the  mix- 
ture over  the  meat.  Cover  with  fine  crumbs.  Place  in  the  oven 
and  bake,  covered,  half  an  hour.  Serve  in  the  dish  in  which 
it  is  baked. 

A  savory  mince 

Use  any  cold  meat  you  have  left  over,  except  beef — poultry, 
lamb,  veal,  mutton,  will  do — and  a  little  ham  chopped  and  mixed 
with  the  other  meat.  Add  one-third  bread-crumbs  soaked  in 
stock  or  gravy  and  season  well.  Stir  in  a  saucepan  until  very 
hot.  Prepare  "cups"  of  stale  bread  by  cutting  round,  then  with 
a  smaller  cutter  marking  out  an  inner  circle,  from  which  scrape 
out  the  bread,  leaving  bottom  and  sides  whole.  Dip  these  in  a  raw, 
sugarless  custard  made  of  a  cupful  of  milk  and  two  beaten  eggs, 
and  let  each  absorb  all  it  will  hold.  Fry  in  hot  cottolene  or  other 
fat  to  a  light  brown,  drain,  fill  with  the  mince,  which  should  be 
quite  soft,  drop  a  raw  egg  upon  each,  and  set  in  the  oven  until 
the  egg  is  "set." 

Larded  sweetbreads  (roasted) 

Blanch  the  sweetbreads.  With  a  sharp  skewer  make  holes 
in  them  and  run  through  these  openings  narrow  strips  of  salt 
pork.  Let  the  bits  of  pork  project  half  an  inch  on  each  side. 
Lay  the  sweetbreads  in  a  covered  roaster,  pour  about  them  a  pint 
of  cleared  and  seasoned  soup  stock,  cover  closely  and  cook  for  an 
hour,  then  transfer  to  a  hot  dish.  Thicken  the  gravy  in  the  pan, 
season  and  pour  it  about  the  sweetbreads. 

Larded  sweetbreads  (fried) 

Prepare  as  in  the  last  recipe,  but  instead  of  roasting  dip  in  egg, 
then  in  crumbs ;  set  on  ice  for  an  hour  and  fry  in  boiling  butter. 


170  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Sweetbread  pate's 

Make  shells  of  rich  puff  paste,  bake  them,  and  fill,  while  hot, 
with  a  mixture  made  according  to  the  following  recipe : 

Cut  a  pair  of  blanched  sweetbreads  into  small  dice.  Cut  ten 
canned  mushrooms  into  quarters  and  mix  them  with  the  sweet- 
breads. Add  eight  blanched  and  chopped  almonds  and  six  olives 
cut  into  tiny  pieces.  Heat  a  cup  of  cream  and  thicken  it  with  a 
teaspoonful  of  cornstarch  rubbed  into  one  of  butter.  When 
smooth  and  thick  add  the  sweetbreads,  olives,  etc.  If  too  thick 
now,  thin  the  mixture  with  a  little  mushroom  liquor.  As  soon 
as  all  the  ingredients  are  heated  through  remove  from  the  fire 
and  turn  into  the  shells. 


Timbales  of  sweetbreads 

Blanch  and  chop  two  pairs  of  sweetbreads  until  as  fine  as  pow- 
der, then  rub  them  very  smooth  with  the  back  of  a  silver  spoon. 
Work  into  this  paste  a  gill  of  sweet  cream  and  the  beaten  yolks  of 
two  eggs.  Season  with  salt  and  white  pepper,  and  beat  long  and 
hard.  Butter  small  timbale  molds  or  "nappies,"  and  pour  the 
mixture  into  them.  Set  the  molds  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  and  bake 
in  a  hot  oven  until  "set."  Loosen  the  contents  of  the  nappies 
with  a  sharp  knife,  and  turn  out  the  molds  upon  a  hot  dish.  Pour 
a  white  sauce  about  them. 

Sweetbreads  en  nid 

Follow  directions  for  larded  sweetbreads,  and  keep  hot.  Make 
a  "nest"  for  them  of  cold  boiled  ham  shredded  into  bits  hardly 
larger  than  coarse  straw ;  cold  roast  chicken,  turkey  or  veal, 
and  cold  boiled  spaghetti  in  four-inch  lengths.  Arrange  upon 
a  hot  platter  to  simulate  a  nest,  pour  a  little  scalding,  well- 
seasoned  gravy  over  them,  and  set  the  dish  in  a  hot  oven  about 
five  minutes.  Have  ready  "a  large  cupful  of  rich  tomato  sauce, 
strained  and  thickened  with  a  roux  of  butter  and  flour,  and  sea- 
soned with  salt,  paprika  and  onion  juice.  Lay  the  sweetbreads 
upon  the  "straw,"  and  pour  the  boiling  tomato  sauce  over  all.' 


LUNCHEON    DISHES  171 

A  baked  mince 

Mix  together  two  cupfuls  of  minced  cold  lamb,  chicken  or  veal, 
one  cupful  of  chopped  ham  and  one  cupful  of  fine  bread-crumbs. 
Moisten  thoroughly  with  well-seasoned  soup  stock.  Turn  into  a 
greased  bake-dish  and  set  in  the  oven  until  heated  through. 
Break  upon  the  top  of  the  mince  as  many  eggs  as  will  lie  side  by 
side  on  it,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  return  to  the  oven  and 
bake  until  the  whites  are  set  and  firm.  Send  to  table  in  a  pud- 
ding-dish. 

Curried  beef 

Melt  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan  and  cook  in 
it  for  five  minutes  an  onion,  sliced.  Remove  the  onion,  and  stir 
into  the  melted  butter  two  tablespoonfuls  of  browned  flour,  mixed 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  curry  powder.  Cook  until  they  bubble, 
then  pour  on  them  a  pint  of  beef  stock.  Stir  until  you  have  a 
thick,  brown  sauce.  Season  with  salt  and  mix  with  it  two  cupfuls 
of  cold  roast  beef  cut  into  dice.  Toss  and  stir  until  the  meat  is 
heated  through.  Have  ready  on  a  platter  a  hollowed  mold  of 
boiled  rice,  and  pour  the  meat  and  sauce  in  the  center  and  about 
the  base  of  this. 

Curried  veal 

Cut  three  pounds  of  lean  veal  into  dice  an  inch  square.  Fry  a 
sliced  onion  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  until  it  begins  to 
color.  Strain  out  the  onion ;  heat  the  butter  to  hissing,  put  in 
the  meat  cubes  and  shake  over  the  coals  until  heated  through  and 
slightly  browned.  Turn  the  contents  of  the  frying-pan  into  a 
pot,  rinsing  out  the  pan  with  a  cupful  of  boiling  water,  just 
enough  to  cover  the  meat.  Sprinkle  over  all  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  finely-minced  salt  pork  and  some  chopped  parsley, 
cover  closely  and  stew  gently  for  two  hours,  or  until  the  veal  is 
tender.  Drain  the  meat  free  from  gravy  in  a  colander  and  keep 
hot  over  boiling  water.  Return  the  gravy  to  the  fire;  add  salt 
if  necessary.  Have  ready  in  a  cup  a  great  spoonful  of  browned 
flour,  wet  to  a  paste  with  cold  water.  When  smooth,  add  a  tea- 


172  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

spoonful  of  curry,  and  stir  in  well  before  adding  both  to  the  hot 
gravy.  As  it  begins  to  boil  put  in  the  meat;  cook  gently  (cov- 
ered) ten  minutes,  and  serve. 

Always  serve  boiled  rice  with  curry,  the  same  person  helping 
both.  A  large  spoonful  of  the  rice  is  put  upon  the  heated  plate, 
and  the  curry  poured  over  it.  Bananas  that  have  been  chilled 
upon  the  ice  are  a  most  grateful  accompaniment  to  curry  of  any 
kind.  One  is  given  to  each  person,  who  peels  and  slices  it  with  a 
silver  knife. 

* 

Curried  lamb  or  mutton 

Make  in  the  same  way,  substituting  either  of  these  meats  for 
veal.  If  you  like,  stir  a  little  currant  jelly  into  the  gravy. 

Curried  chicken 

Joint  the  chicken  as  for  frying,  divide  the  breast  and  the  back 
into  two  pieces,  and  proceed  as  with  a  curry  of  veal.  It  is  par- 
ticularly nice  and  popular  with  all  who  have  been  gently  led  on 
to  appreciate  a  savory  curry. 

A  "toss-up"  of  veal 

Make  a  roux  of  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  the  same  of 
flour;  when  very  hot  and  bubbling,  add  a  little  onion  juice,  pep- 
per and  salt,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  hot  milk  (cream  if  you  have 
it),  with  a  pinch  of  soda  heated  in  it;  lastly,  six  tablespoonfuls  of 
rich,  strained  tomato  sauce.  Stir  in  two  cupfuls  of  cold  veal,  cut 
into  dice,  and  the  moment  it  begins  to  boil  remove  from  the  fire 
to  a  hot  dish. 

Mince  of  veal  garnished  with  eggs 

Make  the  mince  as  directed  in  foregoing  recipe,  but  somewhat 
stiffer ;  season  highly,  bring  to  a  boil  and  mold  in  the  middle  of  a 
hot  platter.  Against  this  hillock  of  mince  lay  fried  eggs,  neatly 
trimmed,  and  outside  of  these  curled  strips  of  fried  breakfast 


LUNCHEON    DISHES  173 

bacon.     This  dish  will  be  much  improved  by  the  addition  of  half 
a  can  of  mushrooms,  minced  fine. 


Mince  of  lamb  and  rice 

This  is  very  much  like  the  mince  just  described,  the  main  dif- 
ference being  that  a  cupful  of  cold  boiled  rice  and  a  green  sweet 
pepper  minced  fine  are  added  to  the  meat  and  tomato  sauce.  You 
may  also  substitute  poached  eggs  for  fried,  and  ham  for  bacon. 

Any  of  the  dishes  just  mentioned  make  savory  a  plain  family 
luncheon,  and  may  be  easily  prepared  at  little  expense  by  the 
housewife  who  keeps  a  bright  lookout  for  available  "left-overs." 

An  Italian  hotch-potch 

Which  became  a  favorite  with  us  under  the  general  name  of 
"Frittura"  during  the  winters  we  spent  in  Florence. 

I  suppose  that  it  was  a  weekly  clearing-house  for  all  manner  of 
leavings  from  roast  and  boiled  meats,  but  it  was  good!  Calf's  and 
poultry  livers  ;  cold  mutton,  lamb  and  veal ;  calf's  brains  ;  now  and 
then  oysters ;  small  artichokes ;  sprigs  of  cauliflower ;  potatoes ; 
celery — all  cooked,  cut  into  small  pieces,  seasoned,  rolled  in  flour, 
.next  in  egg,  again  in  flour,  and  fried ;  first  the  meat,  then  the  veg- 
etables, in  boiling  oil,  and  drained, — were  duly  sorted,  but  served 
upon  one  and  the  same  dish — very  hot. 

Stew  of  mutton  and  peas 

Cut  three  pounds  of  lean  mutton  into  dice.  In  a  pot  fry  six 
slices  of  fat  salt  pork ;  when  crisp,  remove  them  with  a  skimmer 
and  lay  in  the  grease  the  mutton,  dredged  with  flour  and  half 
an  onion  sliced.  Cook  for  five  minutes,  then  cover  with  cold 
water  and  simmer  until  the  meat  is  very  tender.  Remove  the 
meat,  lay  it  on  a  platter,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper  and  keep 
it  hot  while  you  thicken  the  gravy  in  the  pot  with  a  brown  roux, 
and  season  it  to  taste  with  a  tablespoonf  ul  of  tomato  catsup,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  kitchen  bouquet  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Now 


174  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

add  the  contents  of  a  can  of  peas.  These  peas  should  have  been 
drained  and  exposed  to  the  air  for  an  hour.  Bring  the  stew  to  a 
boil,  cook  for  five  minutes,  return  the  meat  to  the  pot  for  a  min- 
ute, then  pour  all  into  the  hot  platter. 

Mince  turnovers 

Two  cupfuls  of  flour,  sifted  twice  with  one  rounded  teaspoonful 
of  baking-powder  and  half  as  much  salt.  Chop  into  it  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  and  wet  up  with  a  cupful  of  milk,  quickly 
and  lightly.  Roll  into  a  sheet  less  than  a  quarter-inch  thick, 
and  this  into  squares  about  six  inches  across.  Put  into  the 
middle  of  each  square  a  large  tablespoonful  of  minced  poultry, 
veal,  ham  or  lamb — or  a  mixture  of  these  well-seasoned  and  wet 
with  gravy.  Double  the  paste  into  a  triangle,  enfolding  the  meat ; 
pinch  or  print  the  edges  to  hold  them  together,  and  bake. 

They  are  good  hot  or  cold. 

Beef  with  sauce  piquante 

Cut  slices  from  yesterday's  roast  of  beef,  mutton  or  veal.  Put 
into  a  saucepan  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of 
vinegar,  a  half -teaspoonful  of  kitchen  bouquet,  a  tablespoonful  of 
tomato  catsup,  a  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  and  salt  and  pep- 
per to  taste.  Stir  these  ingredients  well  together  and  lay  the 
sliced  meat  into  the  sauce  thus  prepared.  Turn  the  meat  over 
and  over  until  heated  through,  and  serve  with  the  sauce  poured 
over  it. 

Larded  beef 

With  a  sharp  knife  make  through  a  round  of  beef  incisions  an 
inch  apart.  Into  the  holes  thus  made  stick  long  strips  of  fat  salt 
pork.  Rub  the  meat  with  a  dressing  made  of  equal  parts  of  oil 
and  vinegar,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.  Let  the  meat  lie  in 
this  for  eight  hours.  Put  the  meat  into  a  covered  roaster,  pour  a 
pint  of  beef  stock  around  it  and  roast  for  four  hours.  Set  away 
in  the  gravy  with  a  weight  on  the  top.  When  cold,  slice  very 
thin  and  serve. 


LUNCHEON    DISHES  175 

Beef  loaf 

Mix  together  three  pounds  of  chopped  raw  beef,  one-quarter  of 
a  pound  of  minced  salt  pork,  one  cup  of  cracker  dust,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls,  each,  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  moisten  all  with  two 
beaten  eggs  and  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice.  Work  in  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  and  pack  in  a  greased  mold. 
Cover;  set  in  a  roasting-pan  of  boiling  water,  and  cook  in  a 
steady  oven  for  two  hours.  Let  the  loaf  get  cold  in  the  mold  be- 
fore turning  out. 

Veal  loaf 

Chop  two  pounds  of  cold  cooked  veal  very  fine,  and  work  into 
it  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt,  pepper  and  onion  juice,  a  dozen 
chopped  olives  and  as  many  minced  mushrooms.  Wet  with  a 
half-pint  of  veal  or  chicken  stock.  Pack  in  a  greased  mold  and 
cook  as  in  the  preceding  recipe.  Have  the  loaf  very  cold  before 
turning  it  out. 

Pressed  veal 

Boil  two  pounds  of  lean  veal  in  enough  water  to  cover  it. 
When  cold,  remove  the  meat  from  the  liquor,  skim  the  grease  from 
the  latter  and  chop  the  meat  fine.  To  the  chopped  veal  add  a 
cupful  of  minced  boiled  ham  and  two  hard-boiled  eggs,  chopped. 
Season  the  veal  liquor  with  celery  salt,  pepper,  a  little  tomato 
catsup  and  a  dash  of  nutmeg.  Make  the  chopped  meat  very 
moist  with  this  liquor  and  press  the  mass  hard  into  a  buttered 
mold.  Cover  and  set  in  the  oven  for  half  an  hour.  Remove  from 
the  oven;  keep  in  a  cool  place  for  twenty-four  hours,  and  turn 
from  the  mold  upon  a  chilled  platter. 

Jellied  tongue 

Boil  a  tongue,  and  when  cold  place  it  in  a  brick-shaped  mold. 
Into  a  pint  of  seasoned  and  heated  beef  stock  stir  a  half-box  of 
soaked  gelatine,  and  when  this  is  dissolved  pour  the  stock  around 
the  tongue  in  the  mold.  When  cool,  set  on  the  ice  until  the  jelly 
is  very  firm.  Turn  out  on  a  cold  platter. 


i/6  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Jellied  chicken 

Boil  a  chicken  the  day  before  it  is  to  be  used.  When  the  liquor 
is  cold  skim  from  it  every  bit  of  fat. 

Soak  a  half-cup  of  gelatine  in  a  cup  of  cold  water  for  two 
hours.  Remove  all  skin  from  the  chicken  and  cut  the  meat  into 
neat  dice.  Cut  two  dozen  canned  French  mushrooms  into  halves. 
Stone  and  halve  one  dozen  large  olives. 

Bring  to  a  boil  and  strain  a  pint  of  the  chicken  liquor ;  stir  into 
it  the  soaked  gelatine,  and  set  aside  to  cool.  As  it  begins  to 
thicken  prepare  your  chicken  loaf  in  the  following  manner :  In 
a  buttered  mold  lay  a  stratum  of  the  chicken,  sprinkle  with  pep- 
per and  salt,  and  a  few  halved  olives  and  mushrooms,  pour  upon 
this  the  thickening,  but  still  liquid,  jelly.  Then  add  more  chicken, 
mushrooms  and  olives;  pour  upon  them  more  jelly,  and  proceed 
in  this  manner  until  the  mold  is  full.  Set  in  a  cool  place  for 
twenty-four  hours  before  using.  Lay  a  warm  cloth  for  a  mo- 
ment about  the  mold,  then  invert  it  upon  a  chilled  platter.  This 
loaf  is  delicious  served  with  lettuce  and  mayonnaise. 

Beefsteak  and  sherry  sauce 

Broil  a  porterhouse  steak  over  a  clear  fire  until  done.  Lay  on 
a  hot  platter.  Make  a  sauce  of  a  cupful  of  beef  bouillon,  thickened 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  brown  roux,  and  when  this  is  smooth  add 
to  it  a  wineglassful  of  sherry,  a  tablespoonful  of  onion  juice  and 
a  half-cupful  of  French  mushrooms,  cut  in  half.  Boil  up  once  and 
pour  over  the  steak. 

Mock  roast  chicken 

Boil  and  chop  fine  the  giblets  from  three  chickens  saved  from 
roast  or  fricassee.  Trim  the  fat  from  a  good-sized,  but  not  thick, 
round  steak.  Make  a  forcemeat  in  the  following  manner : 

Mix  together  the  chopped  chicken  giblets,  two  hard-boiled  eggs, 
chopped  fine,  and  a  half-cupful  of  fine  bread-crumbs.  Moisten  all 
with  chicken  stock.  Lay  the  steak  upon  the  table,  cover  thickly 
with  the  forcemeat  and  roll  it  up,  as  you  would  a  sheet  of  music, 
tying  it  in  shape  with  stout  strings.  Melt  two  tablespoonfuls  of 


LUNCHEON    DISHES  177 

butter  in  a  frying-pan  and  cook  the  steak  in  this  just  long  enough 
to  brown  it  lightly.  Remove  the  meat  from  the  pan  and  put 
over  the  fire  in  a  large  pot.  Add  to  the  fat  in  the  pan  a  table- 
spoonful  of  browned  flour  and  pour  upon  it  two  cups  of  chicken 
stock.  Stir  to  a  smooth  sauce,  season  to  taste  and  pour  over  the 
steak  in  the  pot.  Cover  closely  and  simmer  for  an  hour  and  a 
half.  Transfer  the  meat  to  a  hot  platter,  remove  the  string,  and 
pour  the  sauce  over  it. 

Stewed  rump  steak 

Trim  the  fat  from  the  edge  of  a  thick  rump  steak,  and  put  the 
steak  over  the  fire  in  a  large  pot.  Pour  over  it  a  cup  of  cold 
water,  cover  closely  and  set  at  the  side  of  the  range,  where  it  will 
simmer  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  after  it  reaches  the  boil. 
Remove  the  meat  from  the  pot  and  transfer  to  a  baking-pan ; 
season  the  gravy  and  pour  it  over  the  top,  and  cook  for  fifteen 
minutes  longer,  basting  three  times  during  the  process.  Remove 
the  steak  to  a  hot  platter  and  set  in  the  open  oven  while  you  add 
to  the  gravy  a  cup  of  soup  stock  and  thicken  it  with  a  little 
browned  flour  rubbed  to  a  paste  with  a  spoonful  of  butter.  Sea- 
son with  kitchen  bouquet,  celery  salt  and  a  half-teaspoonful  of 
good  sauce.  Add  a  dozen  canned  mushrooms  cut  in  half.  Cook 
one  minute  and  pour  over  the  steak. 

Rump  steak  and  tomatoes 

With  a  sharp  carving-knife  split  a  thick  rump  steak,  thus  mak- 
ing two  thin  steaks.  Spread  the  lower  half  of  this  with  bits  of 
butter,  a  little  minced  ham  and  a  cupful  of  tomatoes.  (Use  the 
canned  tomatoes,  straining  off  the  juice  and  using  it  for  the 
sauce.)  Lay  the  upper  half  of  the  steak,  sandwich-wise,  upon  the 
lower,  and  fasten  the  two  together  with  small,  stout  skewers. 
Lay  the  meat  in  a  covered  roasting-pan,  dash  a  cup  of  boiling 
water  over  it,  and  cook,  allowing  twenty  minutes  to  each  pound. 
Transfer  to  a  hot  dish,  remove  the  skewers  and  pour  over  the 
steak  a  savory  tomato  sauce. 

12 


178  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Mutton  mince  with  tomatoes 

Make  three  cups  of  good  tomato  sauce  thickened  with  a  heap- 
ing teaspoonful  of  flour  rubbed  into  one  of  butter.  Keep  hot  in 
a  double  boiler  set  at  the  side  of  range. 

Toast  slices  of  bread,  butter,  spread  on  a  platter,  and  put 
a  tablespoonful  of  tomato  sauce  on  each.  Into  the  remainder  of 
the  tomato  sauce  turn  two  cupfuls  of  minced  mutton,  put  the 
saucepan  over  the  fire,  stir  until  the  meat  is  thoroughly  heated, 
season  to  taste  and  pour  upon  the  toast. 

Porterhouse  steak  with  oysters 

Broil  a  fine  tender  steak  on  both  sides  and  transfer  it  to  a  hot 
dish.  Pepper  and  salt  well,  then  rub  into  the  steak  a  mixture  of 
butter  rubbed  to  a  cream  with  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon. 

Put  one  pint  of  oysters  into  a  saucepan  without  any  of  the 
liquor.  Stir  until  the  edges  ruffle,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter 
creamed  with  an  equal  amount  of  flour  and  cooked  to  a  roux. 
Pour  over  the  hot  steak  and  serve 'at  once. 

Savory  stew  of  beef 

Cut  two  pounds  of  raw  lean  beef  into  very  small  strips,  almost 
like  straws,  with  a  keen  blade.  Put  into  a  saucepan ;  cover  with 
cold  weak  stock,  or,  if  you  have  none,  with  cold  water,  and  cook 
slowly  two  hours.  Put  into  another  saucepan  a  cupful  of 
rich  brown  stock,  one  small  onion  chopped  fine,  a  little  grated 
nutmeg,  cayenne  pepper  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  boil  these 
ingredients  a  few  minutes  and  mix  with  the  beef,  adding  a  little 
browned  flour  if  necessary.  Dish  upon  a  hot  platter,  lay  triangles 
of  fried  toast  about  the  base,  and  serve. 

Roulades  of  beef 

Cut  two  pounds  of  lean  steak  into  pieces  about  five  inches  long 
and  half  as  wide,  and  less  than  half  an  inch  thick.  Make  a  force- 
meat of  cooked  sausage,  chopped  fine,  and  mixed  with  one-fourth 


LUNCHEON    DISHES  179 

as  much  fine,  buttered  and  seasoned  bread-crumbs.  Place  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  this  mixture  on  each  piece  of  meat,  roll  them 
into  the  shape  of  a  small  cylinder,  and  sew  both  ends  with  fine 
thread.  Let  them  brown  in  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  then  put  them 
into  a  saucepan  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  two  cupfuls  of  brown 
stock,  a  carrot  and  an  onion,  sliced,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Cover  closely,  and  cook  for  two  hours.  Transfer  to  a  hot  platter, 
clip  and  draw  out  the  thread ;  thicken  the  gravy  left  in  the  sauce- 
pan with  browned  flour,  add  a  little  Worcestershire  sauce  and  a 
glass  of  sherry ;  boil  up  once  and  pour  over  the  roulades. 

How  to  use  up  the  cold  tongue 

Cut  cold  boiled  beef -tongue  into  dice.  Make  a  roux  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  the  same  amount  of 
flour,  salt,  pepper,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Add  a  cupful 
of  strained  tomato.  Simmer  slowly  for  ten  minutes.  Strain,  re- 
turn to  the  saucepan,  lay  in  the  tongue  and  let  it  stand  where  it  will 
keep  hot  without  boiling  for  five  minutes.  Serve  in  a  hot  platter. 

This  is  still  better  if  made  of  fresh  beef's  tongue. 

Galantine 

Cut  a  strip  of  lean  veal  from  the  loin  or  the  breast,  about  six 
inches  wide  and  twice  as  long.  Prepare  a  forcemeat  of  cooked 
ham,  chopped  mushrooms,  any  scraps  of  poultry  you  may  have, 
the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs,  one-third  as  much  crumbs  as 
you  have  meat,  season  with  paprika  and  grated  onion. 

Lay  this  forcemeat  in  the  center  of  the  veal,  roll  up  carefully, 
wrap  in  cheese-cloth  and  sew  up  closely.  Lay  it  in  a  plate  in  a 
kettle,  cover  with  cold  water,  add  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one 
bay  leaf  and  a  sprig  of  thyme,  cover  and  boil  for  fifteen  minutes.- 
Then  put  it  at  one  side  of  the  fire  where  it  can  only  simmer  for  two 
hours.  When  done  set  aside,  with  a  plate  upon  it  and  a  heavy 
weight  upon  the  plate,  until  next  day.  Clip  the  threads,  unwrap 
the  meat  and  serve,  garnished  with  cress  and  nasturtiums.  Cut 
perpendicularly. 


iSo  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 


Chipped  smoked  beef 

Shred  the  beef  into  thin  straws.  Make  a  white  sauce,  lay  in 
the  beef  and  simmer  for  five  minutes.  Then  stir  in  a  beaten  egg, 
a  little  onion  juice  and  pepper.  Stir  until  the  egg  is  set,  and 
serve  upon  toast. 

Brains  on  toast 

Scald  and  blanch  the  brains,  beat  smooth,  add  three  eggs  and 
beat  hard.  Have  ready  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying- 
pan  hissing  hot ;  turn  in  the  mixture  and  stir  steadily  for  three 
minutes.  Serve  upon  rounds  of  toast. 


Baked  calf's  liver  (larded) 

Lard  with  strips  of  fat  salt  pork,  inserted  perpendicularly.  The 
lardoons  should  project  on  both  sides.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a 
saucepan  with  minced  pork,  place  the  liver  on  it;  add  a  carrot, 
two  small  onions,  a  half-dozen  stalks  of  celery,  all  chopped  fine ; 
the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  a  quart  of  strong  stock ;  cover  the  sauce- 
pan and  bake  slowly  for  two  hours  and  a  half,  basting  often  with 
the  liquor  in  the  pan.  When  done  remove  the  liver,  and  put  into 
the  oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  brown ;  make  a  rich  gravy  of  the 
remainder  of  the  gravy  in  the  pan ;  put  the  liver  in  the  center  of 
the  dish,  strain  the  sauce  and  pour  over  it. 

Mock  psite  de  foie  gras 

When  poultry  is  in  full  season  and  the  weather  is  cold,  save 
the  giblets  from  half  a  dozen  fowls,  boiling  them,  salting  slightly 
to  keep  them  and  setting  them  in  a  cold  place.  When  you  have 
•enough,  chop  them,  rejecting  tough  portions,  and  run  through  a 
vegetable  press.  Work  to  a  smooth  paste  with  melted  butter, 
season  with  paprika,  salt,  and  a  dash  of  onion  juice.  Pack  down 
in  small  jars,  pour  melted  butter  over  the  top,  and  keep  in  a  cool, 
dry  place.  If  you  will  boil  a  few  mushrooms  in  salted  water, 
strain,  cut  them  into  coarse  dice  and  intersperse  throughout  the 


LUNCHEON    DISHES  181 

paste,  you  will  have  a  veritable  imitation  of  the  famous  Stras- 
burg  pates.  . 

You  may  substitute  calf's,  lamb's  or  pig's  liver  for  those  of 
fowls  if  you  can  not  get  the  latter. 

Savory  ham 

Fry  slices  of  boiled  ham  on  both  sides.  Transfer  to  a  hot  dish. 
Cook  together  in  a  frying-pan  four  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  a 
teaspoonful  of  granulated  sugar,  a  teaspoonful  of  French  mus- 
tard, and  a  dash  of  paprika.  Stir  until  very  hot,  and  pour  over 
the  fried  ham. 

Cottage  pie 

(Contributed) 

Chop  cold  meat  very  fine.  To  each  cupful  add  one  saltspoonful 
of  salt  and  one-and-a-half  saltspoonfuls  of  pepper,  a  pinch  of  sum- 
mer savory  and  one-half  cupful  of  stock.  Put  into  a  baking  dish 
and  cover  with  a  crust  of  mashed  potatoes.  Brush  over  the  top 
with  milk  and  bake  in  an  oven  to  a  golden  brown. 

Breaded  tongue  with  tomato  sauce 

(Contributed) 

Take  six  slices  of  cooked  tongue,  one-half  can  of  tomatoes,  one 
slice  of  onion,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  a  bit  of  bay  leaf, 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  one-third  cupful  of  bread-crumbs  and 
one  egg.  Cut  the  tongue  in  slices  about  one-half  inch  thick.  Dip 
into  the  crumbs,  then  in  the  egg  and  then  in  the  crumbs  again,  and 
saute  in  butter.  Place  on  a  dish  and  pour  around  it  a  sauce  made 
by  cooking  together  the  tomatoes,  onion  and  bay  leaf  fifteen  min- 
utes. Season  with  salt  and  pepper. 

Steamed  beef 

(Contributed) 

Select  a  piece  of  lean  beef,  wipe  well  with  a  cloth  wrung  out  of 
cold  water ;  remove  all  pieces  of  fat  and  gash  with  a  sharp  knife. 


182  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Put  the  meat  into  a  stone  crock,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
put  in  a  few  cloves.  Cover  with  a  tight  lid.  Cook  in  an  oven 
slowly  for  several  hours  allowing  no  steam  to  escape.  When 
done  the  meat  will  be  very  tender. 

Irish  stew 

Take  a  pound  of  meat  from  the  neck  of  beef  or  mutton  and  cut 
into  neat  pieces.  Stew  gently,  and  about  an  hour  before  it  is  done 
season  and  add  two  onions  cut  into  dice  and  two  carrots  also  cut 
into  dice.  About  half  an  hour  before  the  meat  is  done  add  two 
potatoes  and  three  stalks  of  celery  cut  into  dice.  Serve  on  a  plat- 
ter, putting  the  vegetables  around  the  meat. 

Veal  loaf   (raw  meat) 

Put  three  pounds  of  raw  veal  and  one-fourth  pound  of  salt  pork 
through  the  meat  chopper ;  add  to  this  one  teacupf ul  of  fine  bread 
crumbs,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  three  beaten  eggs  to  which 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  have  been  added,  one  teaspoonful  of 
pepper,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  salt  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  pow- 
dered sage.  Mix  well  together  and  form  into  a  loaf.  Bake  in  a 
mold  two  and  a  half  hours,  basting  with  butter  and  water. 


FAMILIAR  TALK 

LIVING   TO   LEARN 

WHEN  one  is  too  old  to  learn  anything,  his  day  of  life  is  vif- 
tually  over,  so  far  as  usefulness  to  his  kind  goes.  The  ten  or 
twenty  years  left  to  him  upon  earth  are  a  blunder  on  the  part  of 
some  one,  and  we  know  that  the  Creator  and  Father  of  us  all 
makes  no  mistakes.  In  the  eloquent  (and  pessimistic)  description 
of  old  age  from  the  pen  of  the  royal  preacher-poet,  we  read  that 
the  aged  shall  be  afraid  of  that  which  is  high.  The  shrinking  from 
new  emprises,  characteristic  of  the  days  when  the  almond-tree 
shall  blossom  and  the  knees  that  upbear  (or  keep)  the  house,  shall 
tremble,  is  excusable  when  physical  infirmity  has  enfeebled  nerv- 
ous forces  and  digestion.  There  is  no  excuse  except  this  for  the 
cessation  of  mind-growth. 

This  may  sound  didactic.  It  is  written  with  a  purpose.  Given 
a  sane  mind  in  a  sane  body,  and  learning  should  go  on  indefi- 
nitely. The  man  or  woman  of  mature  years  leaves  off  lessons 
because  he  chooses  to  get  out  of  the  habit  of  study.  The  preju- 
dice against  old  cooks — said  by  one  authority  to  be  either  drunk 
or  crazy  as  a  class — is  founded  upon  this  disinclination  to  learn 
novel  methods.  She  who  honestly  aspires  after  excellence  never 
thinks  that  she  has  reached  it.  When,  in  saying,  "that  is  not  MY 
WAY/'  a  cook  believes  that  she  has  put  an  end,  not  only  to  con- 
troversy, but  to  any  suspicion  that  the  world  may  have  moved  an 
inch  or  two  since  she  learned  her  trade — she  registers  herself 
among  the  incurables. 

The  mistress  who  yields  to  the  earliest  manifestations  of  an 
inclination  to  draw  the  dead  line  in  housewifely  progress  is  weakly 
indulgent  or  blindly  foolish.  In  one  wealthy  family,  not  a 
hundred  miles  from  a  great  city,  "a  valued  old  servant"  played 

183 


184  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

the  tyrant  for  over  a  score  of  years.  Little  by  little,  the  em- 
ployers, mindful  of  her  long  term  of  faithful  service,  admitted 
her  pleas  that  this  or  that  new-fangled  way  was  opposed  to  her 
habits  and  inclination,  until  family  bills  of  fare  were  monotonous 
to  boredom,  the  style  of  serving  that  of  a  preceding  generation. 
At  last  Elizabeth  died  and  was  buried  at  the  master's  expense. 

"It's  dreadful,  I  suppose,"  piped  the  youngling  of  the  long- 
suffering  band  on  the  way  home  from  the  funeral.  "But  it  ought 
to  be  some  comfort  that  we  won't  be  obliged  to  have  rice  pudding 
three  times  a  week  any  more." 

Faithful  Elizabeth  had  her  epitaph. 

Nothing  is  more  solemnly  and  sadly  sure  in  this  rushing  age 
than  that  he  who  does  not  keep  up  with  it  will  be  thrown  down 
and  trampled  out  of  sight.  It  is  a  trifle,  apparently,  when  a 
woman  tabooes  oil  in  salad  dressing  because  she  "has  never  been 
used  to  putting  it  in,"  when  she  thinks  mint  sauce  a  "trashy" 
accompaniment  to  roast  lamb,  and  "won't  hear  of  hot  sauce  with 
cold  pudding,"  or  whipped  cream  as  an  accompaniment  to  ice-cold 
raw  tomatoes.  When  the  vegetable  dishes  must  all  be  set  on  the 
table  with  the  meat,  "as  she  has  always  had  them,"  and  lettuce 
be  cut  up  and  dressed  in  the  kitchen  at  the  cook's  convenience, 
instead  of  being  served,  crisp  and  cool,  from  the  deft  fingers  of 
some  member  of  the  family  who  is  "up  in  salads." 

Each  protest  is  a  symptom  of  decadence  which  is  wilful,  not 
inevitable.  She  has  stopped  learning  because  she  has  "stopped." 
In  time,  mental  muscles  become  stiff,  but  disu'se  is  the  cause  of  the 
change. 

"I  account  that  day  lost  in  which  I  have  learned  no  new  thing," 
said  an  aged  sage. 

Our  housewife  may  lay  the  saying  to  heart.  If  there  be  a  bet- 
ter way  than  hers  of  doing  anything — from  making  pickles  to 
giving  a  wedding  supper — she  should  be  on  the  alert  to  possess 
herself  of  it.  It  is  not  true  that  it  is  easier  for  young  people  to 
keep  themselves  and  their  houses  abreast  of  the  times  than  it  is  for 
their  elders.  The  first  step  that  counts  in  the  downward  road  is 
the  tendency  not  to  take  any  step  at  all.  To  stand  still  is  to  be 
left. 


FAMILIAR   TALK  185 

Many  who  believe  that  they  cultivate  the  seeing  eye,  the  hear- 
ing ear,  and  the  willing,  receptive  mind,  live  and  die  without 
learning  the  great  truth  that  the  mighty  thing  we  call  Life  is  made 
up  of  minute  matters.  They  see  and  admire  the  coral  reef  that 
heaves  a  back  a  mile  long  out  of  the  surf,  and  give  never  a 
thought  to  the  coral  builders. 

A  man  who  thinks  much  and  observes  much,  once  told  me  that 
one  essential  difference  between  a  man's  work  and  a  woman's  is 
that  he  grasps  general  principles  while  she  gives  her  attention 
to  details. 

A  man,  according  to  this  authority,  is  an  impressionist  painter, 
handling  his  brush  boldly,  dashing  in  broad  effects  of  light  and 
shadow,  while  a  woman  finishes  each  object  carefully,  sometimes, 
after  the  manner  of  the  Dutch  school  of  painting,  showing  the 
very  hairs  upon  the  brawny  peasant's  arm. 

( I  may  be  excused  for  saying,  in  passing,  that,  being  a  woman, 
I  founded  upon  his  general  principle  the  particular  moral  that  one 
sex  supplements  the  other,  and  that  the  Creator  meant  the  work 
of  the  world  to  be  done  by  them  in  concert.) 

He  had  turned  from  his  desk  to  talk  with  me  and,  while  talk- 
ing, looked  ruefully  at  an  inky  forefinger. 

"I  should  keep  some  pumice  stone,  or  acetic  acid,  or  acetate  of 
soda,  or  ammonia,  here  to  remove  ink-stains,"  he  said.  "I  always 
spill  ink  in  filling  my  fountain  pen." 

A  box  of  matches  was  in  a  pigeonhole ;  a  wet  sponge,  used  for 
stamping  and  sealing  letters,  was  close  to  the  disfigured  hand. 
I  bade  him  wet  the  match  and  rub  it  upon  the  stain  until  it  dis- 
appeared— the  work  of  a  minute.  The  sulphur  in  the  ever-con- 
venient match  acted  upon  the  black  spots  without  blackening  the 
skin,  whereas  any  one  of  the  four  detersives  he  had  mentioned 
would  have  left  a  hard,  disagreeable  sensation  upon  the  cuticle. 
He  was  all  right  as  to  the  principles.  The  one  driblet  of  practi- 
cal wisdom  was  for  the  moment  worth  them  all. 

A  bright  young  woman  whom  I  am  glad  to  know,  has  written 
a  little  book  entitled,  "FIRST  AID  TO  THE  YOUNG  HOUSEKEEPER." 
It  includes  scores  of  things  which  everybody  ought  to  know,  and 
which  everybody  else,  especially  the  writer  of  household  manuals. 


T<%  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

takes  it  for  granted  that  the  housewife  does  know.  It  is  intelli- 
gent attention  to  this  very  matter  of  detail  that  constitutes  the 
"finish"  of  work  of  whatever  kind.  One  of  the  "Sunday  books" 
of  my  childhood  was  a  series  called  "THE  WEEK,"  a  story  of 
English  cottage  life.  I  can  recall  many  sentences  and  the  whole 
story  in  substance.  One  remark  was  to  this  effect :  "Mary  was  a 
good  housekeeper;  Nanny  an  indifferent.  Nanny's  hearth  was 
free  of  ashes  and  cinders,  but  dusty  in  the  corners.  Mary's  was 
not  only  swept,  but  pipe-clayed.  Mary's  kettle  was  bright  and 
black;  Nanny's  clean,  but  brown  and  dull." 

That  is,  Nanny  had  mastered  general  principles;  Mary  looked 
to  details. 

I  read  last  week  in  a  woman's  corner  of  a  daily  paper  a  letter 
from  a  grateful  housewife  whose  hall  carpet  had  been  deluged 
by  the  kerosene  from  a  broken  lamp.  By  the  advice  of  a  visitor 
she  promptly  covered  the  great  spot  with  dry  oatmeal.  When 
this  was  swept  off  in  the  morning  not  a  trace  of  the  oil  remained. 

"My  husband  explains  this  by  saying  that  the  oatmeal  is  at 
once  an  alkali  and  an  absorbent,"  she  writes.  "I  pass  the  useful 
knowledge  on." 

A  careless  servant  knocked  a  lamp  from  the  table  in  the  bed- 
room of  my  summer  cottage  and  the  matting  got  a  full  quart  of 
the  best  kerosene.  I  had  the  floating  oil  wiped  up  with  a  clean, 
soft  cloth,  opened  the  windows,  shut  the  door,  and  let  no  one 
enter  the  room  for  twelve  hours.  Not  a  trace  of  grease  remained 
at  the  end  of  that  time.  The  volatile  oil  had  effaced  itself.  The 
alkaline  absorbent  was  not  needed. 

"We  are  all  fond  of  cauliflower ;  my  husband  and  sons  like 
young  onions  in  the  season,"  said  the  mistress  of  a  big  house. 
"We  can  not  have  either  of  these  vegetables  cooked  on  account 
of  the  odor.  It  fills  the  house  from  cellar  to  attic." 

A  housewife  who  lives  in  a  tiny  city  flat  has  both  of  these 
dishes  whenever  she  likes.  The  vegetables  are  put  over  the  fire 
in  cold  water;  a  little  salt  is  thrown  in,  and  the  pot  is  left  un- 
covered. If  these  rules  be  strictly  obeyed,  the  rising  odor  during 
cooking  will  be  scarcely  perceptible. 

A  physician,  driving  with  his  wife  through  a  lonely  country 


FAMILIAR   TALK  187 

neighborhood,  heard  screams  issuing-  from  the  open  door  of  a 
cottage  and  went  in  to  see  if  he  could  be  of  use.  A  child  had 
upset  a  kettle  of  boiling  water  upon  its  legs  and  feet  and  was  in 
agony  from  the  scald. 

"Have  you  linseed  oil  and  lime  water  in  the  house  ?" .  asked 
the  doctor. 

Before  the  distracted  mother  could  say  that  there  was  neither, 
the  doctor's  wife  said,  "Do  you  burn  wood  in  any  room?" 

There  was  a  wood-stove  in  the  parlor.  There  is  always  lard 
in  the  country  pantry.  In  three  minutes  an  ointment  of  lard  and 
soot  from  the  stovepipe  was  beaten  up  and  spread  upon  old  linen ; 
in  five  minutes  the  scalds  were  covered  with  it.  The  relief  was 
speedy ;  the  cure  complete  in  a  day  or  two. 

The  wise  housewife  gleans  a  great  store  of  precious  driblets 
against  the  hour  and  minute  of  need.  Such  study  of  details  is 
like  sweeping  up  gold  filings.  The  separate  particles  are  nomi- 
nally valueless,  compared  with  the  mastery  of  great  principles. 
When  massed  and  assorted,  they  go  far  toward  making  life  easy. 

A  suggestive  German  fable  is  of  a  trooper  who  saw  a  loose 
horseshoe  on  the  ground  as  he  was  going  into  battle,  got  down, 
picked  it  up  and  hung  it  about  his  neck  by  a  string.  In  the  first 
charge  a  bullet  struck  the  horseshoe  and  glanced  aside  harmlessly. 

"Ha !"  said  the  trooper.  "Even  a  little  armor  is  a  good  thing, 
if  rightly  placed." 

The  horseshoe  was  "a  detail." 


GENERAL   DIRECTIONS 

( Which  the  housewife  is  particularly  requested  to  read) 

Two  things  are  essential  to  the  excellence  of  croquettes.  The 
mixture  composing  them  must  not  be  too  stiff.  The  fat  in  which 
they  are  cooked  must  be  boiling  when  they  go  in,  and  deep  enough 
to  float  them.  If  these  conditions  are  neglected,  you  will  have  a 
pasty,  sticky  compound,  soaked  with  grease  and  misshapen,  per- 
haps scorched  on  the  under  side.  The  hot  fat  should  form  a  crust 
instantly  which  prevents  the  fat  from  touching  the  interior  of 
the  croquette. 

Always  make  out  croquettes  at  least  a  couple  of  hours  before 
they  are  to  be  cooked;  roll  in  egg,  then  in  fine  crumbs,  or  in 
cracker-dust;  arrange  upon  a  floured  dish,  not  touching  one  an- 
other, and  leave  upon  ice,  or  in  a  very  cold  place  to  stiffen. 

Oyster  croquettes 

Cook  twenty-five  oysters  in  their  liquor  until  they  just  begin  to 
ruffle,  remove  from  the  fire,  drain  (reserving  half  a  cupful  of  the 
liquor) ,  and  chop  fine.  Stir  together  over  the  fire  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  flour  and  two  of  butter  and  pour  on  them  a  half-cupful  of 
cream  with  a  pinch  of  soda  in  it,  and  the  half-cupful  of  oyster 
liquor.  When  beaten  to  a  smooth  sauce  add  slowly  the  beaten 
yolk  of  two  eggs,  then  the  chopped  oysters,  salt  and  pepper  and  a 
pinch  of  grated  nutmeg.  Remove  at  once  from  the  fire  and  set 
aside  to  cool.  When  very  cold  form  into  croquettes. 

188 


CROQUETTES  189 

Lobster  croquettes 

(Contributed) 

Two  cupfuls  of  minced  lobster  seasoned  well  with  paprika,  salt 
and  a  little  mace.  One-fourth  the  quantity  of  bread-crumbs,  i.  e. 
about  half  a  cupful.  Four  tablespoonfr.ls  of  cream,  heated  (with 
a  pinch  of  soda),  and  thickened  with  a  teaspoonful  of  butter  rolled 
in  flour.  Make  a  thick  paste  of  the  n.l.vture;  let  it  get  stiff  and 
cold ;  make  into  croquettes,  roll  in  egg  and  cracker -crumbs  ;  set  on 
the  ice  for  an  hour ;  roll  again  in  cracker-dust  and  fry  in  deep, 
hot  cottolene  or  other  fat,  which  has  been  heated  slowly.  Drain, 
garnish  with  lemon  and  parsley  and  serve. 

Chicken  croquettes 

Cook  together  in  a  saucepan  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  one 
of  butter  until  they  are  blended.  Pour  upon  this  white  roux  a 
cupful  of  rich  milk,  and  when  you  have  a  smooth  white  sauce  stir 
in  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  minced  boiled  or  roast  chicken.  Season  to 
taste  with  celery  salt,  white  pepper  and  a  dash  of  nutmeg.  Cook 
until  well  heated,  then  add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  cook  for 
just  two  minutes  before  removing  from  the  fire.  Set  aside  until 
cold  and  stiff ;  mold  into  croquettes,  roll  in  cracker-dust,  in  beaten 
egg  and  yet  again  in  cracker-dust,  and  set  on  the  ice  for  two 
hours  before  frying. 

Turkey  croquettes 

Make  in  the  same  way,  but  mince  more  finely,  as  the  meat  is 
firmer  and  harder. 

Veal  croquettes 

Make  a  forcemeat  of  two  cupfuls  of  minced  veal,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  bread-crumbs,  one  scant  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-quar- 
ter teaspoonful  of  paprika,  one-eighth  teaspoonful  of  mace,  one 
teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  the  yolks 
of  two  raw  eggs.  Stir  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  until  the  mix- 
ture is  heated  through,  and  set  aside  to  cool.  When  cool,  make 


190  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

up  into  croquettes,  dip  in  beaten  egg,  roll  in  egg  and  fine  crumbs 
and  fry.    Serve  with  tomato  sauce. 

Veal  anJ  spaghetti  croquettes 

Mix  together  a  cupful,  each,  of  cold  cooked  veal  and  of  cold 
boiled  spaghetti,  both  minced  fine.  Season  with  salt,  paprika  and 
onion  juice.  Stir  into  a  cupful  of  drawn  butter,  well  thickened; 
cook  together  in  a  saucepan  until  smoking  hot,  when  add  the  yolk 
of  a  raw  egg  and  a  tablespoonful  of  Parmesan  cheese  (pow- 
dered). Form  into  croquettes,  dip  into  beaten  egg,  roll  in  bread- 
crumbs and  fry  in  smoking  hot  cottolene  or  other  fat,  or  dripping 
until  brown.  Serve  with  tomato  sauce. 

Chicken  and  macaroni  croquettes 

Make  as  directed  in  the  foregoing  recipe,  omitting  the  cheese. 
A  nice  sauce  for  either  of  these  dishes  is  stewed  and  strained 
tomatoes,  thickened  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  rolled  in  flour 
and  cooked  one  minute  before  a  large  tablespoonful  of  grated 
Parmesan  cheese  is  stirred  in. 

Rice  croquettes 

Beat  an  egg  light  and  stir  it  into  a  cupful  of  boiled  rice ;  add  a 
teaspoonful,  each,  of  sugar  and  melted  butter,  salt  to  taste,  add 
enough  cream  to  form  the  mixture  into  croquettes  of  the  right 
consistency.  Dip  each  croquette  into  beaten  egg,  then  in  cracker- 
dust  and  set  all  for  two  hours  in  a  cold  place  before  frying  in 
boiling  cottolene,  or  other  fat,  to  a  golden  brown. 

Croquettes  of  brains 

Calf's,  or  lamb's  or  pig's  brains  may  be  used  for  this  dish. 

Wash  the  brains  in  cold  water,  put  them  over  the  fire  in  boil- 
ing water,  cook  for  two  minutes,  drain  and  lay  in  ice-cold  water 
until  cold  and  stiff. 

Beat  them  into  a  paste.    Have  ready  some  thick  drawn  butter 


CROQUETTES  191 

and  beat  into  the  brains  until  the  paste  is  smooth  and  stiff  enough 
to  handle ;  add,  then,  flour  to  stiffen  it  yet  more ;  season  with  pep- 
per, salt  and  a  little  very  finely  minced  parsley ;  flour  your  hands, 
make  the  paste  into  croquettes ;  roll  in  egg  and  cracker-crumbs ; 
set  on  the  ice  for  two  hours — or  more — and  fry  in  deep  boil- 
ing cottolene  or  other  fat.  Drain  and  serve. 


Veal  and  ham  croquettes 

Mince  enough  cold  veal  to  make  a  cupful  when  chopped ;  mix 
with  it  half  as  much  cold  boiled  ham  and  one-fourth  as  much  fine 
crumbs.  Rub  the  yolk  of  a  hard-boiled  egg  through  a  colander 
or  vegetable  press,  and  add  to  the  mixture.  Season  with  pepper 
and  onion  juice  and  moisten  with  thickened  gravy  or  with  drawn 
butter.  Lastly,  whip  in  a  raw  egg  to  bind  the  mixture  and  make 
into  croquettes.  Roll  in  egg  and  in  crumbs,  set  aside  to  form  and 
stiffen,  and  fry. 

Potato  croquettes 

Work  to  a  paste  two  cupfuls  of  mashed  potatoes  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  melted  butter.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  beat 
light  with  a  raw  egg.  Form  into  balls  or  croquettes ;  roll  in  egg 
and  then  in  cracker-dust ;  let  them  stand  on  ice  until  stiff  and  fry  in 
deep,  boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat.  Drain  off  every  drop  of  fat 
and  serve  hot. 

Hominy  croquettes 

Make  precisely  as  you  would  potato  croquettes,  beating  hard 
until  the  mixture  is  entirely  free  from  lumps,  hominy  being  more 
adhesive  and  cohesive  than  potato. 


Fish  and  potato  croquettes 

One  cupful  of  cold  cooked  fish  picked  to  pieces  with  a  fork,  and 
one-third  the  quantity  of  mashed  potato  worked  to  a  stiff  cream 
with  a  little  drawn  butter  and  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt  and 
a  dash  of  Worcestershire  sauce.  Make  into  croquettes;  roll  in 


192  MARION    HARLAND'S   COOK   BOOK 

egg,  then  in  cracker-crumbs ;  let  them  get  cold  and  firm  and  fry 
in  deep,  hot  cottolene  or  other  fat. 

Beef  croquettes 

Two  cups  of  minced  cold  roast  beef  or  steak — (never  corned 
beef).  One-quarter  as  much  mashed  potato.  Season  well  with 
pepper,  salt  and  onion  juice,  with  a  little  very  finely  minced  pars- 
ley. Enough  gravy  to  moisten  the  mixture  and  a  raw  egg  to 
bind  it. 

Work  together  well,  mold  into  cones,  cover  with  egg  and  crack- 
er-dust ;  let  them  get  chilled  for  two  hours  and  fry  in  deep,  boil- 
ing cottolene  or  other  fat,  or  dripping. 

Potato  and  nut  croquettes 

Blanch  the  kernels,  of  two  dozen  English  walnuts,  or  twice  that 
number  of  pecans,  by  pouring  scalding  water  over  them  and  leav- 
ing them  in  it  until  the  skins  crack  and  curl.  'Strip  them  bare, 
spread  on  a  dish,  sprinkle  lightly  with  celery  salt  and  paprika,  and 
let  them  get  perfectly  cold.  When  crisp,  pound  in  a  mortar,  or 
chop  and  crush  fine.  Mix  with  them  two  cupfuls  of  mashed  po- 
tatoes, into  which  you  have  worked  a  little  cream,  butter  and  salt 
while  hot.  Beat  into  the  mixture  the  raw  yolk  of  an  egg.  Mold 
into  croquettes ;  set  aside  until  stiff ;  roll  in  egg  and  then  in 
cracker-crumbs,  and  fry.  Dry  in  a  hot  colander  and  serve  at  once. 

Celery  croquettes 

Cook  together  a  tablespoonf ul  of  flour  and  one  of  butter*  and 
when  they  bubble  pour  upon  them  a  cupful  of  milk.  When  this  is 
thick  and  free  from  lumps  pour  it  gradually  upon  the  beaten  yolks 
of  two  eggs.  Now  add  a  cupfuH  of  celery  cut  (not  chopped)  into 
tiny  bits,  season  with  celery  salt  and  white  pepper  and  turn  out 
to  cool.  When  cold  form  with  floured  hands  into  small  cro- 
quettes, roll  these  in  cracker-dust,  then  in  beaten  egg,  again  in 
cracker-dust  and  set  aside  for  an  hour  before  frying  in  deep,  boil- 
ing cottolene  or  other  fat,  always  brought  gradually  to  the  boil. 


CROQUETTES  193 

Oyster-plant  croquettes 

(Contributed) 

Boil,  mash  and  season  the  oyster-plant,  mold  into  shapes,  sprin- 
kle with  bread-crumbs,  dip  in  egg  and  again  in  crumbs  and  fry 
in  hot  fat. 

Sweetbread  croquettes 

(Contributed) 

Take  four  sweetbreads,  removing  pipes  and  membranes  soak 
for  an  hour  in  cold  salted  water.  Plunge  into  boiling  salted  water 
to  which  has  been  added  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar;  cook  twenty 
minutes.  Drop  again  into  cold  water  to  harden.  Chop  them 
very  fine  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
grated  onion.  Add  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs,  a  tablespoonful 
of  butter,  one-half  cupful  of  cream  and  enough  fine  bread-crumbs 
to  make  soft  enough  to  roll  into  balls.  Dip  in.  egg  and  then  in 
bread-crumbs  and  fry  in  hot  fat  to  a  nice  brown.  Take  up  and 
drain  on  brown  paper.  Serve  hot  with  sliced  lemon.. 


WITH  THE  CASSEROLE 

THE  French  name  "casserole"  has  a  certain  amount  of  terror 
for  the  American  housewife.  The  foreign  word  startles  her  and 
awakens  visions  of  cooking  as  done  by  a  Parisian  chef,  or  by  one 
who  has  made  the  culinary  art  his  profession.  She,  a  plain,  every- 
day housekeeper,  would  not  dare  aspire  to  the  use  of  a  casserole. 

And  yet  the  casserole  itself  is  no  more  appalling  than  a  sauce- 
pan. It  is  simply  a  covered  dish,  made  of  fireproof  pottery,  which 
will  stand  the  heat  of  the  oven  or  the  top  of  the  range.  And  the 
dainty  cooked  in  this  dish  is  "casserole"  of  chicken,  rice,  etc., 
as  the  case  may  be.  Like  many  another  object  of  dread  this,  when 
once  known,  is  converted  into  a*  friend. 

Casserole  of  chicken 

Clean  and  joint  a  tender  spring  chicken.  Put  into  a  frying-pan 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  fry  in  this  a  small  onion  and  a 
carrot,  both  cut  into  tiny  dice.  When  these  vegetables  are  lightly 
browned,  turn  into  the  casserole,  add  to  them  two  cupfuls  of  clear 
soup  stock,  in  which  three  bay  leaves  and  a  little  thyme  have  been 
boiled  and  then  removed.  In  this  consomme  lay  the  jointed 
chicken,  put  the  closely-fitting  cover  on  the  casserole  and  set  it 
in  a  steady  oven.  It  should  cook  for  an  hour.  At  the  end  of  this 
time  stir  into  the  chicken  a  dessertspoonful  of  tomato  catsup.  Re- 
cover and  cook  for  half  an  hour  longer.  Then  add  two  dozen 
small  French  mushrooms  which  have  been  previously  stewed  for 
ten  minutes,  lastly,  a  glass  of  sherry.  Season  the  whole  to  taste 
with  pepper  and  salt  and  leave  uncovered  in  the  oven  long  enough 
for  the  chicken  to  brown.  Fresh  mushrooms  are,  of  course,  bet- 
ter than  canned  when  you  can  get  them. 

194 


WITH    THE    CASSEROLE  195 

Casserole  of  rice  and  liver 

Boil  a  cupful  of  rice  in  a  quart  of  water  until  reduced  to  a  soft 
paste.  Mash  this  rice  paste  smooth  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Line  a  well-greased  casserole 
with  the  mixture,  pressing  the  paste  firmly  against  bottom  and 
sides,  and  leaving  a  large  hollow  in  the  center.  Set  in  a  cold  place 
until  stiff  and  firm.  Meanwhile  boil  a  pound  of  lamb's  liver,  drain 
and  chop  fine.  Heat  in  a  saucepan  two  cupfuls  of  soup  stock,  sea- 
son with  a  teaspoonful  of  kitchen  bouquet,  thicken  with  browned 
flour  and  stir  into  this  sauce  the  minced  liver.  Fill  the  hollow  in 
the  center  of  the  rice  with  the  liver  mixture,  sprinkle  with  bread- 
crumbs and  set  in  the  oven  to  brown. 


Casserole  of  potato  and  cheese 

Boil  a  sufficient  number  of  potatoes  to  make  three  cupfuls  when 
mashed.  Return  the  mashed  potatoes  to  a  saucepan  and  stir  over 
the  fire,  as  you  add  slowly  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs.  When 
the  smoking  mass  is  hot  and  stiff,  turn  it  into  a  greased  casserole 
and  press  firmly  against  the  sides,  leaving  a  hollow  in  the  middle 
about  the  size  of  a  kitchen  teacup.  Brush  the  top  and  sides  of  the 
potato  with  the  white  of  an  egg  and  set  in  the  oven  until  glazed 
and  firm.  Meanwhile,  heat  in  a  frying-pan  or  chafing-dish  six 
tablespoonfuls  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese  in  a  gill  of  milk  and 
when  hot  add  to  it  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  a  pinch  of  salt  and  a  dash 
of  paprika.  When  this  cheese-sauce  is  thick  and  hot,  remove  the 
casserole  from  the  oven,  fill  the  hollow  in  the  middle  of  the  po- 
tato with  the  cheese  mixture,  sprinkle  cracker-crumbs  over  the 
top  of  the  potato  and  cheese  and  return  to  the  oven  to  brown. 
Serve  in  the  casserole  and  at  once. 


Casserole  of  lamb  or  mutton  chops 

Trim  the  chops  neatly,  removing  every  bit  of  fat  and  skin.  In 
the  bottom  of  the  casserole  put  a  layer  of  pared  and  shredded  to- 
matoes ;  sprinkle  with  salt,  pepper,  a  little  sugar  and  a  teaspoonful 


196  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

of  onion  juice.  Lay  three  or  four  chops  upon  the  tomatoes;  sea- 
son them  with  salt  and  pepper;  arrange  about  them  small  pel- 
lets of  parboiled  potato,  cut  with  a  gouge,  after  the  manner  of 
Parisian  potatoes, — also  a  dozen  or  so  champignons  (canned 
mushrooms).  Now,  more  tomato,  seasoned  as  before,  then  more 
chops,  potatoes  and  mushrooms,  until  all  are  used  up  in  this 
order.  The  upper  layer  should  be  tomatoes.  Pour  in  a  generous 
cupful  of  stock —  bouillon,  consomme,  mutton  broth,  or  whatever 
you  have ;  cover  and  cook  steadily  for  two  hours  if  the  casserole 
be  large. 

When  the  meat  is  tender  to  the  trial-fork,  pour  off  the  gravy 
carefully  into  a  saucepan,  thicken  with  browned  flour;  add  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon,  a  teaspoonful  of  kitchen  bouquet  and  a  glass 
of  brown  sherry.  Pour  back  over  the  contents  of  the  casserole, 
set  in  the  oven  for  three  minutes,  covered,  and  serve  in  the  dish. 

An  elegant  dish  can  be  made  of  unpromising  chops  by  following 
these  directions. 

Mock  casseroles  of  chicken 

Select  large,  smooth,  tart  apples  of  good  flavor  and  of  uniform 
size.  Remove  core  with  corer.  Mince  cold  chicken  fine,  season 
with  salt,  a  dash  of  cayenne,  pinch  of  powdered  thyme,  one-half 
cupful  of  bread-crumbs,  moistened  with  three  or  four  teaspoonfuls 
of  sweet  cream.  Fill  each  apple  and  bake  in  oven.  Serve  hot  or 
cold  with  mayonnaise  as  a  salad. 

% 

Creamed  chicken 

Carve  enough  meat  from  a  cold  roast  chicken  to  make  a  pint 
when  cut  into  small  dice.  Cook  together  in  a  saucepan  a  table- 
spoonful,  each,  of  butter  and  flour ;  when  they  are  blended  pour 
upon  them  a  cup  of  white  stock,  and  when  this  is  thick,  a  cup  of 
milk.  Stir  to  a  smooth  sauce  and  add  the  minced  chicken.  Season 
to  taste ;  cook  until  the  meat  is  very  hot  and  serve. 


WITH    THE    CASSEROLE 


Creamed  chicken  and  macaroni 


197 


Cut  cold  boiled  or  roast  chicken  into  small  dice  of  uniform 
size,  and  into  half-inch  lengths  half  the  quantity  of  cold,  cooked 
macaroni.  Make  a  good  white  sauce,  season  highly  with  paprika, 
salt  and  a  suspicion  of  onion  juice.  Beat  two  eggs  light  and  stir 
into  them  four  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  heated,  with  a  pinch  of 
soda.  Mix  well  with  the  chicken  and  spaghetti;  put  over  the 
fire  in  a  frying-pan,  or  broad  saucepan,  and  stir  and  toss  until 
smoking  hot.  Serve  in  a  deep  dish. 

Scallops  of  turkey  or  chicken 

Chop  the  meat  fine  and  to  two  cupfuls  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  bread-crumbs,  half  a  cupful  of  boil- 
ing water,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Put  these  all  into  a  saucepan 
and  stir  while  heating.  Lastly,  put  in  two  raw  eggs,  beaten  light, 
and  take  from  the  fire.  Fill  baking  cups  two-thirds  full  of  the 
mixture,  set  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water  and  bake  about  twenty-five 
minutes.  Turn  out  carefully  into  a  heated  dish  and  pour  white 
sauce  around  them. 

Philadelphia  scrapple 

(Contributed) 

Take  a  cleaned  pig's  head  and  boil  until  the  flesh  slips  easily 
from  the  bones.  Remove  all  the  bones  and  chop  fine.  Set  the 
liquor  in  which  the  meat  was  boiled  aside  until  cold,  take  the  cake 
of  fat  from  the  surface  and  return  the  liquor  to  the  fire.  When  it 
boils,  put  in  the  chopped  meat  and  season  well  with  pepper  and 
salt.  Let  it  boil  again  and  thicken  with  corn-meal  as  you  would 
in  making  ordinary  corn-meal  mush,  by  letting  it  slip  slowly 
through  the  fingers  to  prevent  lumps. 

Cook  an  hour,  stirring  constantly  at  first,  afterward  putting 
back  on  the  range  in  a  position  to  boil"  gently.  When  done,  pour 
into  a  long,  spare  pan,  not  too  deep,  and  mold.  In  cold  weather 
this  can  be  kept  several  weeks.  Slice  and  saute  in  butter  or  drip- 
ping. » 


CHEESE  DISHES  FOR  LUNCHEON 


A  fondu  of  cheese 

Grate  cheese  and  crush  broken  and  dried  bread  and  crusts  into 
fine  crumbs.  There  should  be  two  cupfuls  of  these  to  one  of  cheese. 
Wet  the  crumbs  with  two  cupfuls  of  milk  in  which  has  been  dis- 
solved a  bit  of  soda  no  larger  than  a  Lima  bean.  Beat  two  eggs 
light,  whites  and  yolks  apart;  whip  the  yolks  into  the  soaked 
crumbs  with  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter.  Season  with  salt 
and  a  dust  of  cayenne,  add  the  frothed  whites,  deftly  and  rapidly ; 
bake  in  a  greased  pudding  dish  in  a  brisk  oven,  keeping  the  dish 
covered  until  the  fondu  has  puffed  high  and  is  crusty  on  top. 
Then  brown  lightly  and  serve  at  once,  as  it  soon  falls.  Pass 
crackers  and  pickles  with  it. 

Rice  and  cheese  pudding- 
Boil  a  cupful  of  rice  tender ;  drain  dry  in  a  hot  colander ;  set  at 
the  side  of  the  range  for  ten  minutes.  Mix,  then,  with  two  beaten 
eggs,  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Line  a 
well-greased  dish  with  this  paste,  leaving  a  hollow  in  the  middle. 
The  walls  of  rice  should  be  about  an  inch  thick.  Set  in  the  hot 
oven  for  five  minutes.  Have  ready  a  cupful  of  hot  milk ;  stir  into 
it  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  half  a  cupful  of  grated 
cheese,  a  generous  pinch  of  paprika,  with  salt  to  taste,  and  a  pinch 
of  baking-soda.  Lastly,  and  quickly,  add  a  beaten  egg.  Pour 
this  mixture  into  the  hollowed  rice,  sift  fine  crumbs  over  it,  and  set 
covered  in  the  oven.  At  the  end  of  ten  minutes  uncover  and 
brown  slightly.  Serve  at  once,  as  it  falls  into  heaviness  with 
standing. 


CHEESE   DISHES   FOR   LUNCHEON  199 

Cheese  rice 

Boil  a  cupful  of  rice  in  two  quarts  of  water.  When  tender,  turn 
into  a  colander,  drain,  shake  hard  and  stand  at  the  side  of  the 
range  ten  minutes  to  dry.  Now  stir  into  the  rice,  first,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  melted  butter,  then  four  tablespoonfuls  of  Parmesan 
cheese  and  a  dash  of  cayenne  pepper.  Serve  very  hot. 

Tomatoes  and  cheese 

Cut  the  stem-end  from  large  tomatoes,  and  with  a  small  spoon 
scoop  out  the  insides.  To  two  tablespoonfuls  of  the  tomato  pulp 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  bread-crumbs  and  the  same  quantity  of 
cheese  crumbled  into  bits.  Season  to  taste  and  return  this  mixture 
to  the  tomatoes.  Replace  the  stem-ends  and  bake  the  tomatoes  for 
twenty  minutes  in  a  roasting-pan.  Transfer  to  a  hot  platter  and 
serve. 

Cheese  straws 

To  a  half  pint  of  prepared  flour  add  two  ounces  of  grated  Par- 
mesan cheese,  moisten  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg  and  enough  milk  to 
make  a  paste  that  can  be  rolled  out.  Roll  into  a  thin  sheet  and  cut 
into  narrow  "straws."  Bake  to  a  delicate  brown.  While  they  are 
hot  sift  grated  cheese  over  them. 

Cheese  puffs 

In  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  melt  two  tablespoonfuls  of  but- 
ter. When  the  water  and  butter  are  boiling,  stir  into  them  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  wet  with  a  little  cold  water,  and  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese.  Cook  for  three  minutes,  stirring 
all  the  time.  Remove  from  the  fire,  and  when  the  mixture  is  cold 
add  two  eggs  and  beat  hard  for  fifteen  minutes.  Line  a  baking- 
pan  with  greased  paper  and  drop  the  mixture  upon  it,  a  spoonful 
at  a  time,  leaving  ample  space  between  each  puff  for  the  swelling 
caused  by  baking.  When  puffed  up  and  brown  they  are  done  and 
must  be  eaten  at  once. 


200  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Cheese  fritters 

Make  small  sandwiches  of  buttered  white  bread  (from  which 
the  crust  has  been  removed)  sliced  thin  and  thin  slices  of  cheese. 
Press  each  sandwich  firmly,  that  the  two  pieces  of  bread  may  not 
separate  in  the  cooking,  and  drop  into  boiling  fat.  Fry  to  a  golden 
brown  and  remove  to  a  colander  lined  with  tissue  paper. 

Egg  and  cheese  timbales 

Beat  six  eggs  very  light  and  add  to  them  a  gill  of  warm  milk, 
in  which  a  pinch  of  soda  has  been  dissolved,  five  tablespoonfuls  of 
grated  cheese  and  a  pinch,  each,  of  paprika  and  salt.  Butter  small 
timbale  molds,  or  pate  pans,  fill  with  the  egg  mixture  and  set  in  a 
baking-pan  of  boiling  water  until  the  egg  is  set.  Turn  out  care- 
fully on  a  hot  platter  and  pour  hot  tomato  sauce  about  them. 
Serve  at  once,  as  they  soon  fall.  A  nice  luncheon  entree. 

Cheese  souffle 

Cook  together  in  a  saucepan  two  tablespoonfuls,  each,  of  butter 
and  flour,  and  when  they  are  blended  tpour  upon  them  a  half 
pint  of  milk.  Stir  to  a  smooth  white  sauce  and  stir  into  this  eight 
tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  a  pinch  of 
baking-soda  and  a  dash  of  paprika.  Have  ready  beaten  four  eggs, 
white  and  yolks  separate.  Remove  the  cheese  mixture  from  the 
fire  and  gradually  beat  into  it  the  yolks  of  the  eggs;  last  of  all, 
fold  in  lightly  the  stiffened  whites.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a 
greased  pudding-dish  and  bake  in  a  steady  oven  to  a  golden 
brown.  Serve  immediately. 

Cheese  ramakins 

Cut  slices  of  bread  very  thick,  pare  off  the  crusts  and  press 
a  round  cake-cutter  half-way  through  the  middle  of  each  slice. 
Take  out  the  crumb  enclosed  in  this  circle.  Butter  the  bread  and 
set  in  the  oven  until  dry  and  crisp.  Now  fill  the  hollow  in  each 
slice  with  a  mixture  made  of  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  four  table 


CHEESE   DISHES    FOR   LUNCHEON  201 

spoonfuls  of  grated  cheese,  a  tablespoonful  of  cream  and  a  little 
salt  and  pepper.    Set  for  five  minutes  in  a  hot  oven. 

Cheese  biscuits 

Cook  together  in  a  small  saucepan  three  tablespoonfuls  of  but- 
ter and  four  of  flour.  When  these  are  blended  pour  upon  them  a 
half  pint  of  boiling  water  and  stir  until  thick  and  smooth;  add 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese,  a  dash  of  celery  salt  and 
of  cayenne  pepper.  Cook,  stirring  constantly,  until  very  thick; 
remove  from  the  fire  and  add,  slowly,  two  beaten  eggs.  Beat 
for  ten  minutes  and  drop  by  the  spoonful  upon  a  greased  baking- 
pan.  Drop  these  cakes  so  far  apart  that  they  will  not  touch 
each  other.  Lay  a  sheet  of  brown  paper  over  the  top  of  the 
pan  and  set  in  a  hot  oven  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  When  the 
biscuits  are  puffed  up  and  seem  nearly  done,  remove  the  paper 
and  brown  them.  Slip  a  thin-bladed  knife  carefujly  under  the  bis- 
cuits to  loosen  them  from  the  pan  and  serve  at  once,  as  they  soon 
fall. 

Cheese  crackers 

On  buttered  crackers  lay  slices  of  American  cheese  cut  thin* 
arrange  in  a  baking-pan  and  set  in  the  oven  until  the  cheese  is 
melted.  Serve  hot.  A  little  cayenne  sprinkled  upon  the  crackers 
is  liked  by  many. 

Cheese  fingers 

Cut  puff-paste  into  strips  as  long  and  as  wide  as  your  middle 
finger,  sprinkle  with  a  layer  of  cheese  (grated),  press  upon  this 
another  strip  of  pastry,  sprinkle  with  more  cheese  and  bake  in  a 
quick  oven. 

Cream  cheese 

To  every  quart  of  rich  milk  you  use  allow  a  pinch  of  salt  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  rennet,  taking  care  to  buy  that  which  is  not  flavored 
in  any  way.  When  it  is  solid,  turn  into  a  bag  and  let  it  drip- 
When  it  is  well  drained  so  that  all  the  whey  is  taken  from  the 
curd — it  may  take  more  than  a  day  for  this,  and  in  that  case  you 


202  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

must  change  the  bag  at  the  end  of  the  first  twelve  hours — take  it 
out,  chop  the  curd  fine,  put  it  into  a  cheese  box  and  press  two 
hours.  Wrap  in  two  or  three  folds  of  tissue  paper  or  in  tinfoil, 
to  exclude  the  air. 

Deviled  crackers  and  cheese 

Butter  thin  crackers — water,  butter,  cream  or  saltine — dip  each 
lightly  into  hot  milk  and  lay  in  a  buttered  bake-dish.  Sprinkle 
the  layers  with  salt  and  paprika  and  every  other  layer  with  a 
spatter  of  French  mustard.  Cover  each  layer  with  dry,  grated 
cheese.  The  topmost  layer  should  be  soaked  crackers  dotted  with 
butter.  Finally,  pour  in  a  cup  of  milk,  heated,  with  a  pinch  of 
soda.  Cover  closely  for  the  first  half-hour  of  baking,  then  brown 
delicately. 

Creamed  cheese  golden  buck 

This  is  a  good  way  of  using  cream  cheese  which  has  become 
a  little  dry  after  the  tinfoil  has  been  removed. 

Rub  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  cheese  to  a  paste  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  butter ;  salt  and  pepper  it  and  work  in  a  tablespoonf  ul 
or  two  of  cream,  enough  to  make  it  quite  soft.  Set  in  a  pan  of 
boiling  water  over  the  fire  and  stir  until  hot,  when  add  a  beaten 
egg,  cook  one  minute  and  spread  upon  buttered  crackers. 

Nonpareil  Welsh  rarebit 

Half  a  pound  of  soft  grated  cheese ;  one  gill  of  ale ;  two  eggs ; 
one  tablespoonf  ul  of  butter;  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice  and 
the  same  of  Worcestershire  sauce  and  half  a  spoonful  of  celery 
salt.  A  pinch  of  cayenne  and  one  of  mustard. 

Put  a  broad  saucepan  over  the  fire  and  melt  the  butter.  When 
it  hisses  stir  in  the  cheese,  then,  still  stirring,  the  dry  seasoning. 
Have  ready  the  eggs  beaten  separately  and  very  light,  before  you 
stir  them  together  in  a  bowl  with  a  few  swift  strokes.  Add  three 
spoonfuls  of  the  hot  mixture  to  these,  rapidly,  then  pour  the  eggs 
(now  warmed  by  the  hot  cheese)  into  the  saucepan,  never  letting 
the  spoon  rest.  In  one  minute  more  add  the  sauce  and  lemon 
juice  and  put  upon  rounds  of  hot,  buttered  toast. 


CREAMED   MACARONI   IN   PINEAPPLE  CHEESE  SHELL 


COVERED   CHEESE   DISH    FOR   LIMBURGER,    ETC. 

CHEESE  AND  EGG-ENTRFES 


CHEESE   DISHES    FOR   LUNCHEON  203 

Macaroni  in  cheese  shell 

Break  macaroni  into  two-inch  lengths  and  boil  until  tender 
in  plenty  of  salted  water ;  then  drain  and  blanch  by  pouring  cold 
water  over  it.  After  it  has  been  blanched  cut  into  pieces  not  over 
a  half  inch  long.  Have  ready  a  cheese-shell,  one  from  which  the 
cheese  has  been  thoroughly  scooped  out.  These  shells,  which 
are  frequently  thrown  away,  make  a  nice  receptacle  for  serving 
macaroni.  Stand  the  shell  on  a  piece  of  waxed  paper  and  this 
in  a  baking-pan.  Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  two  of 
flour  in  the  saucepan,  mix  and  add  a  pint  of  milk,  stir  until 
boiling,  mix  in  the  cold  macaroni  and  stir  over  the  fire  until 
it  is  just  heated  through;  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper  and  pour  the  mixture  into  the  shell ;  cover  with 
a  piece  of  greased  paper  and  leave  in  the  oven  fifteen  minutes. 
Lift  the  shell  carefully,  putting  it  on  a  round  plate  and  send  to 
the  table.  This  process  imparts  a  most  delicate  cheese  flavor  and 
makes  a  sightly  dish.  If  baked  too  long,  it  will  become  soft  and 
fall  apart.  For  that  reason  the  macaroni  must  be  hot  when  poured 
into  the  shell.  If  the  shell  is  carefully  cleaned,  it  may  be  used 
several  times. 

Cream  celery  in  Edam  cheese  shell 

Cut  the  cleaned  celery  stalks  into  inch-lengths  and  cook  until 
tender  in  boiling  water,  slightly  salted.  For  three  cupfuls  of  the 
cut  celery  allow  a  pint  of  white  sauce,  using  the  water  in  which  the 
celery  was  cooked,  with  the  cream,  as  the  liquid.  Turn  into  the 
shell  of  an  Edam  cheese,  cover  with  half  a  cupful  of  fine  cracker- 
crumbs,  mixed  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter  and  let 
it  brown  in  the  oven.  Send  around  powdered  cheese  with  this 
dish. 

Cheese  rings 
(Contributed) 

Prepare  a  dough  as  for  cheese  straws,  but  cut  it  out  with  a 
doughnut  cutter,  brown  slightly  in  a  moderate  oven.  Draw  sev- 
eral cheese  straws  through  the  opening  in  each  ring  and  serve 
with  salad. 


204  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Baked  cheese 

(Contributed) 

Dissolve  three  ounces  of  butter  in  a  gill  of  hot  water.  Melt 
three  ounces  each  of  American  and  Gruyere  cheese.  Stir  all  to- 
gether until  creamy,  then  add  enough  sifted  flour  to  make  a  stiff 
paste  and  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Mix  the  whole  thor- 
oughly. Mold  with  two  buttered  tablespoons,  slip  on  greased 
paper,  and  when  all  are  molded  set  in  a  moderate  oven.  When 
slightly  brown  brush  them  over  with  the  whites  of  the  eggs  beaten 
stiff.  Return  to  the  oven  for  one  minute.  Take  up  on  a  hot 
dish,  dust  with  pepper  and  fill  the  center  with  grated  cheese. 

Cheese  cutlets 
(Contributed) 

To  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs  add  one  tablespoonful  of 
cream  and  one  ounce  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese  and  season  with 
mace  and  cayenne.  Beat  until  very  light  and  add  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  Bechamel  sauce.  Pour  into  a  buttered  pan  and  steam  over 
hot  water  until  firm.  When  cold  cut  in  shapes  with  a  fancy 
cutter,  dredge  with  grated  cheese  and  fry  in  boiling  fat  to  a  deli- 
cate brown.  Serve  at  once  on  fried  bread. 


THE  TOAST  FAMILY 


Toast,  pure  and  simple 

Pare  the  crust  from  thin  slices  of  bread,  cut  each  slice  in  two 
and  toast  to  a  golden  brown  over  a  clear  fire ;  butter  lightly ;  pile 
together  and  throw  a  napkin  over  them.  The  sooner  they  are  eaten 
the  better.  This  toast  is  the  accompaniment  to  scores  of  break- 
fast and  luncheon  dishes. 


Brown  bread  toast 

Is  especially  good  and  goes  well  with  oysters  and  certain  salads. 

Deviled  toast 

Is  best  when  made  of  stale  whole  wheat  or  of  graham  bread. 
Toast  as  just  directed  and  spread  with  a  mixture  made  by  cream- 
ing together  a  great  spoonful  of  butter  with  a  quarter-teaspoon- 
ful,  each,  of  lemon  juice,  dry  mustard  and  paprika.  Sift,  if  you 
like,  dry  grated  cheese  over  each  round  of  toast  thus  deviled  and 
set  for  one  minute  upon  the  upper  grating  of  a  hot  oven.  Eat  at 
once. 

Tomato  toast 

Make  a  pint  of  well-seasoned  tomato  sauce.  Toast  crustless 
slices  of  bread ;  butter  and  dip  each  slice  in  hot,  salted  milk,  then 
put  the  slices  in  layers  in  a  pudding  dish.  Put  a  spoonful  of  to-, 
mato  sauce  on  each  layer,  and  when  the  dish  is  full,  pour  the  re- 
maining sauce  over  all.  Cover  and  set  in  the  oven  for  ten  min- 
utes, then  send  to  the  table.  It  will  be  found  very  good. 

205 


206  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Celery  toast 

Stew  inch-lengths  of  celery  until  soft ;  run  through  a  vegetable 
press ;  mix  with  a  thin  white  sauce,  seasoning  with  paprika,  salt 
and  a  dash  of  onion  juice;  boil  up  once  and  put  into  a  pudding 
dish  with  alternate  layers  of  lightly  toasted  bread  which  have 
been  dipped  into  the  salted  water  poured  off  from  the  boiled  cel- 
ery. Cover  and  set  in  the  oven  for  ten  minutes,  then  serve  in 
the  bake-dish.  A  pleasant  accompaniment  to  chicken  or  veal 
croquettes. 

Sandwiched  toast 

Cut  bread  into  very  thin  slices  and  remove  all  the  crusts.  But- 
ter lightly,  and  between  every  two  slices  lay  an  extremely  thin 
shaving  of  chicken  or  cold  roast  veal.  Press  the  slices  of  bread 
firmly  together,  lay  on  a  toaster  and  toast  each  to  a  delicate 
brown.  Serve  at  once.  These  are  especially  nice  with  cucumber 
salad. 

Toasted  crackers 

Butter  seafoam  or  snowflake  crackers  and  dust  with  celery  salt 
and  a  little  paprika.  Set  in  the  oven  until  very  hot,  then  serve. 

Toasted  anchovy  crackers 

Spread  crackers  with  anchovy  paste  and  set  in  the  oven  until 
very  hot  before  sending  to  the  table. 


LUNCHEON  VEGETABLES 

Hashed  potatoes,  browned 

Pare,  wash  and  cut  eight  fine  potatoes  into  small  cubes,  not 
more  than  half  an  inch  square.  Put  these  over  the  fire  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  minced  celery  and  half  as  much  grated  onion. 
Salt  to  taste,  and  cook  until  tender  but  not  broken ;  drain  off  the 
water  and  turn  the  potatoes  into  a  buttered  dish.  Have  ready  a 
cupful  of  hot  milk,  into  which  stir  a  large  tablespoonful  of  butter 
rubbed  into  one  of  flour.  Do  not  cook  them  together,  but  add  a 
tablespoonful  of  finely-minced  parsley,  and  pour  over  the  potatoes. 
Cover  and  bake  fifteen  minutes,  then  brown  upon  the  upper  grat- 
ing of  your  oven.  Serve  in  the  bake-dish. 

The  celery  and  onion  impart  a  most  agreeable  flavor  to  the 
dish. 

Potato  scallop 

Work  gradually  into  your  cold  mashed  potato  a  cupful  of 
warmed  milk  (in  which  has  been  dissolved  a  pinch  of  soda)  until 
you  have  a  smooth  mixture ;  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  add  an 
egg  beaten  very  light,  and  bake  briskly  in  a  well-greased  pudding 
dish.  Serve  in  the  dish  before  it  has  time  to  fall. 

Potato  chips 

Pare,  slice  very  thin  with  a  sharp  knife  and  throw  into  ice 
water  for  an  hour.  Dry  between  two  towels,  and  cook  until  deli- 
cately colored  in  deep,  boiling  cottolene  or  the  best  salad  oil,  slight- 
ly salted.  Drain  perfectly  dry,  toss  upon  hot  tissue  paper  for  an 
instant  and  serve  in  a  deep  dish  lined  with  a  napkin,  which  is 
drawn  over  the  potatoes. 

207 


208  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Potato  strips 

Prepare  in  the  same  way,  after  cutting  into  long,  thin  strips, 
the  length  of  the  potato. 

Potatoes  on  the  half -shell 

Bake  large,  smooth  potatoes  of  uniform  size  until  they  yield'  to 
the  pinching  fingers.  Divide  each  carefully  in  half,  lengthwise ; 
scrape  out  the  interior,  taking  care  not  to  break  the  skin ;  mash 
the  potato  with  a  little  hot  milk  and  melted  butter  until  you  can 
beat  it  to  a  cream ;  salt  and  pepper,  beat  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
grated  cheese  (Parmesan  is  best)  for  two  cupfuls  of  potato,  and 
return  to  the  waiting  shells.  Set  in  the  oven  until  hot  through 
and  slightly  browned.  Serve  in  the  skins. 

They  are  very  good. 

Potato  puff 

Beat  a  cupful  of  mashed  potato  to  a  soft,  creamy  mass,  with  a 
cupful  of  warm  milk  and  an  even  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Have 
ready  two  eggs,  whipped  light,  and  add  to  the  "cream."  Pepper 
and  salt  to  your  liking ;  turn  into  a  warmed  and  buttered  pudding 
dish;  set  in  a  quick  oven  and  bake,  covered,  for  half  an  hour, 
then  brown.  Serve  at  once  before  it  falls. 

Potato  drop  cakes 

Pare,  wash  and  grate  six  good-sized  raw  potatoes ;  press  out  the 
water,  add  three  well-beaten  eggs  and  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of 
flour,  with  salt  to  taste.  Beat  well,  and  drop  by  the  great  spoon- 
ful in  deep,  hot  cottolene  or  other  fat.  Fry  to  a  delicate  brown. 

Sweet  potatoes  au  gratin 

Peel  and  slice  cold,  boiled  sweet  potatoes.  Grease  a  pudding 
dish,  put  a  layer  of  potatoes  in  the  bottom  of  it,  sprinkle  with  salt, 
pepper,  sugar  and  bits  of  butter.  Put  in  more  potatoes,  sprinkle 
these  as  you  did  the  others,  and  when  the  dish  is  full  pour  over  the 


LUNCHEON  VEGETABLES  209 

contents  a  gill  of  boiling  water,  in  which  a  tablespoonful  of  butter 
has  been  melted.  Strew  with  fine  crumbs,  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  bake,  covered,  for  twenty  minutes.  Uncover  and 
brown. 

Sweet  potato  puff 

Into  two  cupfuls  of  boiled  and  mashed  sweet  potatoes  beat 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  a  cupful  of  milk  and  four 
beaten  eggs.  Salt  to  taste,  beat  hard  and  turn  into  a  greased 
pudding  dish.  Bake  to  a  golden  brown. 


Pea  pancakes 

Open  a  can  of  green  peas  several  hours  before  you  wish  to 
use  them,  drain  in  a  colander  and  cover  with  cold  water  until  you 
are  ready  to  cook  them.  Boil  tender  in  water  slightly  salted, 
drain,  and  while  hot  rub  through  a  colander  or  vegetable  press. 
Work  in  a  teaspoonful  of  butter,  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste. 
Stir  for  a  minute,  and  let  the  paste  get  cold.  Beat  two  eggs  light 
and  add  to  the  cold  paste,  alternately  with  a  cupful  of  milk.  Sift 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder  twice  with  four  tablespoon- 
fuls of  flour,  and  stir  into  the  mixture. 

Drop  upon  a  soapstone  griddle  as  you  would  griddle  cakes. 
Eat  while  hot,  as  a  vegetable.  Peas  left  over  from  yesterday 
are  nice  made  up  in  this  way. 

t* 

Buttered  rice 

This,  too,  is  a  nice  "made-over  entree."  Boil  rice  in  the  usual 
way,  and,  after  draining  well,  press  while  warm  into  a  bowl  or 
mold.  Next  day  turn  it  out  carefully  upon  a  pie  plate  and  set  in  a 
quick  oven.  When  it  is  hot  all  through  draw  to  the  door  of  the 
oven  and  butter  abundantly.  Shut  the  oven,  door  and  brown 
lightly.  Butter  again  and  sift  a  thick  coating  of  grated  cheese 
(Parmesan,  if  you  have  it)  over  all.  Leave  in  the  oven  for  a  few 
minutes  to  melt  the  cheese,  and  heap  irregularly  with  a  meringue 
14 


210  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

of  the  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten  up  with  a  pinch  of  celery  salt. 
Brown  very  lightly,  slip  a  spatula  under  the  mold  and  transfer 
carefully  to  a  hot  platter. 

It  is  a  pretty  yet  a  simple  side  dish,  good  and  easily  made. 

Tomatoes  farcies 

Carefully  peel  large,  firm  tomatoes,  and  scoop  out  the  centers. 
In  the  hollow  thus  left  in  each  tomato  put  a  layer  of  minced  ham. 
Set  the  tomatoes  in  a  bake-pan,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper, 
put  a  bit  of  butter  upon  the  top  of  each  and  cook  for  ten  minutes. 
Then  drop  upon  the  mince  in  each  tomato  a  raw  egg;  dust  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  cook  until  the  eggs  are  "set." 

•_  :;      & 

Tomato  cups  and  saucers 

Cut  the  tops  from  large,  ripe  tomatoes,  and  scoop  out  the  in- 
sides  with  a  small  spoon.  Keep  these  insides  for  the  sauce,  to  be 
used  later.  Make  a  mince  of  cold  roast  beef  or  mutton,  moisten 
it  with  a  rich  gravy,  season  to  taste  and  half  fill  the  hollowed 
tomatoes  with  this  mixture.  Set  in  a  covered  roasting-pan  and 
bake  for  twenty  minutes  in  a  steady  oven.  Meanwhile,  strain  the 
tomato  pulp,  heat  it  and  make  of  it  a  sauce  thickened  with  two 
teaspoonfuls,  each,  of  flour  and  butter,  rubbed  to  a  paste.  Season 
to  taste.  Toast  rounds  of  crustless  bread,  lay  these  on  a  platter 
and  pour  the  tomato  sauce  over  and  around  them.  Keep  hot  until 
the  tomatoes  are  ready.  When  these  have  cooked  for  twenty  min- 
utes remove  the  cover  of  the  roaster  and  drop  into  each  half- 
filled  tomato  a  raw  egg.  Replace  the  cover  and  bake  just  long 
enough  to  "set"  the  eggs.  Upon  each  round  of  toast  lay  a  stuffed 
tomato,  sprinkle  with  pepper  and  salt  and  send  to  the  table. 

Scallop  of  tomatoes  and  eggs 

Into  a  pint  of  stewed  tomatoes  stir  a  generous  cupful  of  fine 
bread  crumbs,  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  a  half  teaspoonful 
of  sugar,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Mix  thoroughly  and  turn  into 
a  greased  pudding  dish.  Upon  the  top  of  this  scallop  break  as 


LUNCHEON  VEGETABLES  211 

many  eggs  as  will  lie  upon  it  side  by  side.     Sprinkle  with  salt, 
pepper  and  bits  of  butter  and  bake  until  the  eggs  are  set. 

Rice  and  cheese  pudding 

Boil  a  cup  of  rice  until  each  grain  is  tender  and  stands  alone. 
Now  beat  in  gradually  five  whipped  eggs  and  a  cup  of  milk,  in 
which  have  been  stirred  two  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese. 
Stir  over  the  fire  for  a  minute  and  pour  the  mixture  into  a  greased 
pudding  dish.  Bake  in  a  good  oven  for  half  an  hour. 

Pilau  of  green  peppers 

Cut  green  peppers  lengthwise,  removing  the  seeds  with  care, 
lest  they  make  the  green  shells  too  hot.  Fill  the  halves  with 
boiled  rice,  into  which  has  been  stirred  a  tablespoonful  of  melted 
butter  for  a  cupful  of  the  boiled  rice,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
grated  Parmesan  cheese,  with  salt  to  taste.  Mound  the  rice 
smoothly  and  high,  and  after  the  pilau  has  cooked  ten  minutes  in 
a  covered  pan  brown  lightly.  Serve  hot. 

Scallop  of  sweet  peppers  and  ham 

Cut  each  pepper  lengthwise  into  quarters  and  remove  the  seeds 
carefully,  lay  in  iced  water  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  drain.  Cut 
each  quarter  in  half.  Butter  a  pudding  dish  and  put  in  the  bot- 
tom of  it  a  layer  of  minced  ham,  on  top  of  this  a  layer  of  cut 
peppers ;  sprinkle  thickly  with  fine  crumbs  and  moisten  all  thor- 
oughly with  seasoned  stock.  Now  put  in  more  ham,  another  layer 
of  peppers  and  crumbs,  liberally  dotted  with  bits  of  butter  and 
sprinkled  with  salt.  Bake,  covered,  in  a  good  oven  for  half  an 
hour,  then  uncover  and  cook  ten  minutes  longer. 

Buttered  rice  with  peppers 

Cook  an  even  cupful  of  rice  fast  in  two  quarts  of  salted  boiling 
water  for  twenty  minutes,  or  until  tender,  but  not  broken.  Drain 
in  a  colander,  and  set  in  an  open  oven  to  dry  off  for  five  minutes. 


212  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Have  ready  one  large,  or  two  small  green  sweet  peppers,  seeded 
carefully  and  chopped  fine.  Put  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  but- 
ter in  a  frying-pan ;  when  it  hisses  add  the  minced  peppers ;  toss 
and  stir  over  the  fire  until  smoking  hot  all  through.  Put  the  rice 
into  a  dish  and  pour  the  contents  of  the  frying-pan  all  over 
it,  loosening  the  mass  with  a  fork  to  allow  the  sauce  to  pene- 
trate it. 

Boston  baked  beans 

Soak  one  quart  of  beans  over  night  in  warm — not  hot — water. 
In  the  morning  cook  them  until  the  skin  curls  on  a  bean  when  you 
blow  upon  it.  Pack  them  in  an  earthen  pot.  Score  the  skin  of 
a  pound  of  streaked  salt  pork,  and  almost  bury  it  in  the  beans. 
Pour  over  this  one  dessertspoonful  of  molasses,  mixed  with  as 
much  vinegar,  a  good  pinch  of  pepper  and  a  teaspoonful  of  mixed 
mustard.  Cover  closely  and  bake  six  hours  in  a  good  oven. 

Baked  beans  and  tomatoes 

Soak  and  boil  as  directed  in  the  last  recipe.  Then  put  the 
beans  into  a  deep  pudding  dish ;  bury  a  piece  of  pork  (parboiled) 
in  the  center  and  pour  over  them  a  large  cupful  of  stewed  and 
strained  tomatoes  seasoned  with  pepper,  sugar,  onion  juice  and  a 
good  lump  of  butter,  but  not  thickened.  Cover  closely  and  cook 
for  three  hours,  if  the  dish  be  large. 

Fried  cucumbers 

Peel  and  slice  cucumbers  and  lay  in  a  dressing  of  equal  parts  of 
oil  and  vinegar  for  ten  minutes.  Drain  and  dip  in  beaten  egg, 
roll  in  cracker  crumbs  and  fry  in  deep  cottolene  or  other  fat. 
Drain  and  serve  hot. 

Mushrooms  on  toast 

Peel  and  broil  fresh  mushrooms,  spread  them  with  butter,  dust 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  them  on  rounds  of  toast.  Or 
you  may  cut  the  mushrooms  in  quarters,  put  them  in  a  double 
boiler  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  cook  until  tender.  They 


LUNCHEON  VEGETABLES  213 

may  then  be  seasoned  to  taste  and  poured,  sauce  and  all,  on 
rounds  or  triangles  of  crustless  toast 

Baked  mushrooms 

Peel  and  stem  large  mushrooms.  Line  a  deep  bake-dish  with 
thin  slices  of  toast,  each  of  which  has  been  dipped  for  an  instant 
in  seasoned  beef  stock.  Fill  the  dish  with  layers  of  mushrooms, 
sprinkling  each  layer  with  salt,  paprika,  and  bits  of  butter.  When 
the  dish  is  full,  pour  over  all  a  gill  of  stock,  and  bake,  covered,  for 
twenty  minutes.  Uncover  and  cook  for  five  minutes  before  send- 
ing to  the  table. 

Dried  mushrooms  and  eggs 

Wash  the  dried  mushrooms,  boil  until  tender  and  drain  the 
water  off.  Put  into  a  pan  to  fry  in  butter  for  about  ten  minutes, 
sprinkle  a  very  little  caraway  seed  on  them,  and  salt  to  taste. 
Break  a  few  eggs  over  them. 


SANDWICHES 

THE  day  has  passed  and  forever  when  a  sandwich  meant  two 
thick  slices  of  bread,  enclosing  what  the  boys  call  a  "hunk"  of 
cold  meat.  Now  the  popular  delicacy  is  made  of  bread  cut  to 
wafer-like  thinness  and  shorn  of  all  suggestion  of  crust.  The 
" filling"  may  be  simple  or  composite,  as  taste  may  dictate,  and  the 
ingenious  housewife  will  devise  many  delicious  combinations  to  be 
spread  between  the  two  layers  of  her  sandwiches. 

Ham  sandwiches 

Chop  lean  ham  fine  and  beat  into  each  cupful  of  the  minced 
meat  a  tablespoonful  of  salad  oil,  a  teaspoon ful  of  vinegar,  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  French  mustard,  six  olives  chopped  fine,  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  minced  parsley.  Work  all  to  a  paste  and  spread  on 
thin  slices  of  white  bread. 

Chicken  sandwiches 

Mince  the  white  meat  of  a  roast  chicken  and  mix  it  with  half  a 
can  of  French  mushrooms,  chopped  fine,  and  a  half  cupful  of 
chopped  English  walnuts.  Season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  moisten  with  melted  butter.  Put  the  mixture  between  slices 
of  whole  wheat  bread. 

Brunette  sandwiches 

Slice  Boston  brown  bread  very  thin,  butter  lightly,  and  spread 
with  Neufchatel  or  with  cottage  cheese.  Have  ready  crisp  lettuce- 
leaves,  dip  each  in  a  bowl  of  French  salad  dressing,  then  lay  on  the 
already  spread  brown  bread.  Press  another  slice  of  buttered 
brown  bread  on  this,  and  the  sandwich  is  ready.  These  sand- 

214 


SANDWICHES  215 

wiches  must  be  kept  in  a  moist  atmosphere  until  it  is  time  to  serve 
them. 

Lamb  or  mutton  sandwiches 

Mince  cold  roast  lamb,  or  tender  mutton  fine,  and  season  with 
salt,  pepper  and  tomato  catsup.  Add  a  few  minced  olives  and 
make  all  into  a  paste  with  mayonnaise  dressing.  Spread  between 
thin  slices  of  bread.  Cut  these  sandwiches  into  diamond  shapes. 

Beef  sandwiches 

Chop  rare  cold  roast  beef  very  fine,  taking  care  to  use  only 
the  lean  portions  of  the  meat.  Sprinkle  with  salt,  pepper  and  a 
saltspoonful  of  horseradish.  Mix  and  make  into  sandwiches  with 
thinly-sliced  graham  bread.  These  may  be  eaten  by  persons  of 
delicate  digestion,  and  are  both  appetizing  and  nourishing. 

Egg  sandwiches 

Mash  the  yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs  to  a  powder  and  moisten 
with  olive  oil  and  a  few  drops  of  vinegar.  Work  to  a  paste,  add 
salt,  pepper  and  French  mustard  to  taste,  with  a  drop  or  two  of 
Tabasco  sauce.  Now  chop  the  whites  of  the  eggs  as  fine  as  pos- 
sible (or  until  they  are  like  a  coarse  powder)  and  mix  them  with 
the  yolk  paste.  If  more  seasoning  is  necessary,  add  it  before 
spreading  the  mixture  upon  sliced  graham  bread. 

Walnut  sandwiches 

Shell  English  walnuts.  Blanch  and  chop,  and  to  every  table- 
spoonful  of  nuts  allow  a  good  half  tablespoonful  of  cream  cheese. 
Rub  well  together  and  spread  on  thin  slices  of  crustless  white  or 
graham  bread. 

Peanut  sandwiches 

Shell  and  skin  freshly-roasted  peanuts  and  roll  them  to  fine 
crumbs  on  a  pastry-board.  Add  salt  to  taste,  and  mix  the  pow- 
dered nuts  with  enough  fresh  cream  cheese  to  make  a  paste  that 


216  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

can  be  easily  spread  on  unbuttered  bread.     Keep  in  a  cold,  damp 
place  until  wanted. 

Water  cress  sandwiches 

Season  water  cress  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  few  drops  of  vine- 
gar, and  chop  coarsely.  Mix  with  creamy  cottage  cheese  and 
spread  on  thinly-sliced  white  bread. 

Cottage  cheese  sandwiches 

Cottage  cheese,  spread  upon  a  slice  of  buttered  bread,  and  cov- 
ered with  a  leaf  of  lettuce  dipped  in  oil  and  vinegar,  then  with 
the  second  buttered  slice,  makes  a  nice  relish. 

Sardine  sandwiches 

Wipe  the  fish,  skin,  take  out  the  backbone  and  rub  to  a  smooth 
paste  with  a  little  butter  and  lemon  juice.  Add  a  dash  of  cay- 
enne, or  a  few  drops  of  Tabasco  sauce,  and  spread  between  thin 
slices  of  brown  bread. 

Salmon  sandwiches 

* 

(Contributed) 

Remove  the  skin  and  bones  from  a  can  of  calmon,  shred  with  a 
silver  fork  and  add  the  crumbled  yolks  of  six  hard-boiled  eggs. 
Season  to  taste  and  add  any  good  salad  dressing.  Spread  on  thin 
slices  of  brown  bread. 

Olive  sandwiches 

(Contributed) 

Take  equal  parts  of  large  and  stuffed  olives.  Mince  fine,  mix 
with  a  little  thick  mayonnaise,  and  spread  on  thin  slices  of  but- 
tered bread. 

Salad  sandwiches 

(Contributed) 

Take  finely-chopped  chicken  or  veal,  season  with  salt,  pepper 
and  a  dash  of  onion  juice.  Add  a  little  mayonnaise  and  spread 
the  mixture  on  thin  slices  of  bread  lined  with  crisp  lettuce  leaves. 


WHOLE    WHEAT    BREAD    SANDWICHES 
IN    FOLDED    NAPKIN 


SANDWICHES  217 

Nasturtium  sandwiches 

(Contributed) 

Butter  thin  slices  of  white  bread,  place  between  them  the  petals 
of  nasturtium  flowers  or  the  very  young  leaves.  Place  the  flow- 
ers so  that  they  will  show  along  the  edges  of  the  bread  and  deco- 
rate the  plate  with  the  leaves  and  flowers. 

Raisin  sandwiches 

(Contributed) 

Make  a  paste  of  large  seeded  raisins  and  candied  lemon  peel 
chopped  fine  and  moistened  with  lemon  juice.  Spread  on  lightly- 
buttered  thin  slices  of  bread.  Serve  with  a  cup  of  good  tea. 

Chocolate  sandwiches 

(Contributed) 

Melt  a  small  piece  of  butter  in  a  saucepan ;  grate  into  it  bitter 
chocolate  and  season  with  granulated  sugar.  When  the  chocolate 
is  thoroughly  melted  take  from  the  fire  and  cool.  Moisten  with  a 
little  thick  cream  and  spread  on  thin  slices  of  slightly  buttered 
bread. 

Hash  sandwiches 

(Contributed) 

Cut  pieces  of  bread  into  uniform  sizes,  dip  them  in  beaten  egg, 
to  which  a  little  milk  and  a  pinch  of  salt  has  been  added.  Fry  to 
a  light  brown  in  hot  butter.  Make  a  highly-seasoned  hash  of 
chopped  meat  and  potatoes.  Cook  in  stock  until  heated  through. 
Arrange  toast  on  platter,  putting  a  spoonful  of  hash  on  each 
piece  and  covering  with  another  piece  of  toast. 

Date  and  nut  sandwiches 

(Contributed) 

Remove  the  stones  and  the  thick  skin  which  surrounds  them 
from  the  dates,  then  chop  them  fine.  Add  half  as  much  finely- 


2i8  MARION   HARLAND'S   COOK   BOOK 

chopped  English  walnut  or  pecan  meats ;  moisten  with  creamed 
butter,  add  a  pinch  of  salt  and  spread  between  two  thin  slices  of 
bread. 

Fig  and  nut  sandwiches 

(Contributed) 

For  fig  sandwiches  use  the  recipe  for  dates  and  nuts,  substitut- 
ing figs  for  dates. 

Ginger  sandwiches 

(Contributed) 

Cut  thin  slices  of  plain  gingerbread.  Spread  with  soft  cream 
cheese.  Put  between  the  slices  a  thin  slice  of  preserved  ginger. 

Marmalade  sandwiches 

(Contributed) 

Toast  slices  of  bread,  spread  while  hot  with  butter,  fill  with  a 
thick  marmalade  and  serve  hot. 

Cheese  and  nut  sandwiches 
(Contributed) 

Take  equal  parts  of  grated  cheese  and  English  walnuts  pounded 
to  a  meal  and  moisten  with  thick  cream.  Season  to  taste  and 
spread  between  thin  slices  of  buttered  bread. 

Lettuce  sandwiches 

(Contributed) 

Lay  between  two  thin  slices  of  buttered  bread  a  crisp  lettuce 
leaf,  on  which  has  been  spread  a  thin  layer  of  salad  dressing. 


SANDWICHES  219 

Sweetbread  sandwiches 

(Contributed) 

Put  cold  boiled  sweetbreads  through  a  potato  ricer,  moisten 
with  half  as  much  whipped  cream,  season  with  salt,  cayenne  and 
lemon  juice.  Spread  on  thin  slices  of  buttered  bread  and  cut  in 
fancy  shapes. 

Lobster  sandwiches 

(Contributed) 

Season  the  finely-chopped  meat  of  a  lobster  with  a  few  drops  of 
Tabasco  sauce,  lemon  juice  and  oil  and  spread  upon  thinly-but- 
tered bread. 

Hot  ham  sandwiches 

(Contributed) 

Butter  thin  slices  of  bread.  Broil  some  very  thin  slices  of  ham, 
put  between  the  slices  of  bread  and  serve  hot. 

Tongue  sandwiches 

(Contributed) 

Make  a  dressing  one  part  mustard  and  five  parts  butter,  add 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste  and  a  little  cayenne.  Butter  the  bread 
with  the  dressing  and  lay  between  the  slices  thin  slices  of  cold 
tongue. 

Mint  sandwiches 
(Contributed) 

Pulverize  one  tablespoonful  of  mint  leaves ;  pour  over  them  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  boiling  water.  Let  it  stand  for  about  a  half  an 
hour.  Soak  half  an  ounce  of  gelatine  in  one  tablespoonful  of 
water.  Dissolve  it  over  hot  water.  Strain  the  mint  into  the  gela- 
tine and  when  cool  add  a  pint  of  rich  whipped  cream  and  a  pinch 
of  salt.  Let  this  stand  in  a  mold  until  perfectly  cold  and  firm. 
Slice  in  thin  slices  and  put  between  dainty  slices  of  bread. 


220  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Anchovy  sandwiches 
(Contributed) 

Spread  thin  slices  of  bread  with  a  very  little  butter.  Cover  this 
with  a  thin  layer  of  anchovy  paste.  Mince  finely  some  olives  and 
use  for  a  filling. 

Club  sandwiches 

(Contributed) 

Toast  slices  of  bread  a  nice  brown,  and  while  hot  spread  with 
butter  and  put  between  the  slices  a  lettuce  leaf,  some  cold  baked 
chicken  cut  in  thin  slices,  a  few  chopped  olives  and  pickles,  some 
slices  of  hot  crisp  bacon,  a  layer  of  salad  dressing,  another  lettuce 
leaf  and  the  other  slice  of  toast. 

These  are  very  nice  for  Sunday  evening  supper. 


TEMPTING  PREFIXES  TO  LUNCHEON 

Grape  fruit 

This  is  among  the  most  popular  of  appetizers  to  be  served  at  a 
luncheon.  Cut  the  fruit  in  half,  crosswise,  and  with  a  sharp  knife 
remove  all  the  bitter  white  membrane  that  divides  the  lobes.  Fill 
the  space  thus  left  with  as  much  granulated  sugar  as  the  fruit 
will  hold.  Set  on  the  ice  until  very  cold. 

Fruit  baskets 

Cut  oranges  in  half  so  cleverly  as  to  leave  a  wide  strip  from  the 
upper  half  of  the  rind  attached  to  the  lower,  like  the  handle  of  a 
basket,  or  the  "bale"  of  a  bucket.  Should  you  break  it  at  one 
side  you  can,  after  filling  the  cup  or  basket,  put  a  neat  stitch  in 
and  tie  a  bow  of  narrow  ribbon  over  the  join. 

Empty  the  lower  cup  entirely  to  the  white  inner  lining.  Set 
on  the  ice  while  you  prepare  the  filling.  Cut  the  orange  pulp 
into  neat,  clean  bits;  mix  with  crystallized  cherries,  atoms  of 
marrons  glaces  or  of  blanched  nuts,  add  fine  white  sugar  and  a 
little  liqueur,  or  if  you  prefer,  sherry.  Fill  the  baskets  and  leave 
half  buried  in  cracked  ice  until  you  are  ready  to  set  them  on  the 
table. 

Set  each  basket  upon  a  chilled  plate,  laying  an  orange  spoon 
beside  it. 

If  you  do  not  care  to  take  the  trouble  of  leaving  the  handle  on, 
make  bowls  of  the  halved  fruit.  They  are  a  delicious  introduc- 
tion to  a  company  luncheon. 

Oyster  cocktails 

Bury  small  oysters  in  the  ice  until  needed.  Have  the  tall,  slen- 
der glasses  in  which  they  are  to  be  served  laid  in  the  ice  also  that 

221 


222  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

they  may  be  thoroughly  chilled.  Make  a  sauce  of  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  tomato  catsup,  a  dozen  drops  of  Tabasco  sauce,  the  juice 
of  a  lemon,  a  saltspoonful  of  grated  horseradish  and  a  dash,  each, 
of  salt  and  paprika.  Add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oyster  liquor, 
mix  thoroughly  and  set  on  the  ice  until  very  cold. 

Put  five  oysters  in  the  bottom  of  each  chilled  glass,  pour  the 
sauce  upon  them,  and  serve. 

Raw  oysters 

Lay,  when  opened,  on  the  deeper  of  the  halved  shells  that  the 
liquor  may  not  escape.  Have  a  bed  of  finely-cracked  ice  in  each 
plate,  fix  five  oysters  in  each  bed,  with  a  piece  of  lemon  in  the 
middle.  Pass  grated  horseradish  in  vinegar  with  them,  and  small 
crackers,  or  buttered  bars  of  graham  bread. 

Raw  clams 

Are  served  in  the  same  way. 

Caviar  crisps 

Remove  the  crusts  from  slices  of  white  bread  and  cut  into  strips 
an  inch  wide  and  three  inches  long.  Toast  to  a  light  brown  and 
set  aside  to  cool.  Open  a  small  can  of  caviar  and  rub  into  the 
contents  a  tablespoonful  of  salad  oil  and  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon 
juice.  If  the  paste  is  not  soft  enough  add  more  oil.  Spread  the 
crisp  toast  with  this  paste,  garnish  with  sprigs  of  parsley,  and 
serve  cold. 

Clam  wafers 

Chop  a  dozen  soft  clams  very,  very  fine,  and  season  with  pepper 
and  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice.  Add  to  them  the  beaten  yolk  of 
one  egg  and  enough  finely-rolled  cracker  crumbs  to  make  a  soft 
paste.  Spread  seafoam  wafers  thickly  with  this  paste,  lay  them 
in  a  baking  pan  and  set  in  the  oven  for  five  or  ten  minutes,  or  until 
the  wafers  and  paste  are  very  hot  and  the  batter  is  quite  stiff. 
Serve  at  once. 


CAVIAR  TOAST  GARNISHED  WITH 
CELERY   AND  LEMON 


OYSTER  COCKTAILS 


TEMPTING   PREFIXES    TO   LUNCHEON        223 

Anchovy  toast 

Cut  the  crust  from  a  loaf  of  graham  bread  and  slice,  then  cut 
each  slice  in  half  and  toast  on  both  sides.  Spread  lightly  with 
butter.  Open  a  jar  of  anchovies  and  lay  one  of  the  tiny  fish  on 
each  strip  of  graham  toast,  squeeze  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice 
upon  it,  sprinkle  with  paprika  and  set  in  the  oven  until  very  hot. 

Anchovy  bars 

Butter  narrow  saltine  wafers,  spread  them  with  anchovy  paste, 
and  set  them  in  the  oven  long  enough  to  become  very  hot.  Serve 
two  on  each  plate. 

Deviled  crackers 

Butter  seafoam  wafers,  sprinkle  lightly  with  paprika,  then  drop 
upon  them  a  very  little  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  and  set  in  the 
oven  until  they  brown  delicately  about  the  edges. 

Hot-house  grapes 

Cut  the  larger  bunches  into  smaller,  all  of  uniform  size.  Lay 
on  ice  until  just  before  luncheon  when,  tie  a  dainty  bow  of  ribbon 
of  a  harmonizing  color  with  the  grapes,  upon  each  bunch. 

Jack  Frost  grapes 

Divide  a  large  bunch  of  selected  grapes  into  smaller  bunches  of 
even  proportion.  With  a  earners-hair  brush  varnish  each  grape 
thoroughly  with  the  white  of  an  egg.  Dust  carefully  with  granu- 
lated sugar.  Tie  to  each  cluster  a  bow  of  narrow  white  ribbon. 


SALADS 

IN  A  Familiar  Talk,  some  pages  back,  I  have  alluded  to  the 
"Woman  with  a  Way,"  who  will  not  use  oil  in  salad  dressing. 
A  story  which  stuck  to  an  eminent  magazine  publisher  to  the  end 
of  his  busy  career  was  of  a  new  cook  whose  salads  won  the  un- 
qualified approval  of  her  master,  who  was  a  gourmand  in  a 
gentlemanly  way.  She  had  been  serving  perfect  mayonnaises 
and  well-adjusted  French  dressings  for  a  fortnight,  when  one  of 
the  children  fell  ill  and  the  doctor  prescribed  a  dose  of  castor  oil. 
The  mother  recollected  distinctly  the  purchase  of  a  bottle  not 
long  before,  but  it  could  not  be  found.  Bridget  heard  the  inquiry 
going  the  rounds  and  came  to  the  front. 

"Castor  ile — is  it  ye  are  wanting?  And  it  is  mesilf  that  was 
thinking  this  morning,  as  I  had  a  right  to  spake  to  yez,  mem,  to 
order  more.  I  put  the  lasht  dhrop  inter  the  castor  yisterday. 
Salad  every  day  uses  a  dale  of  ile." 

Bridget  knows  better  now,  and  her  mistress's  taste  is  so  far 
cultivated  by  much  use  of  salad  oil  that  she  insists  upon  having  it 
"pure." 

An  airy  waitress,  in  the  second  day  of  her  trial  week  in  my 
household,  complimented  me  patronizingly  upon  the  judgment 
which  led  me  to  select  "the  best  brand." 

"There's  no  better  oil  on  the  market  to  my  way  of  thinking  than 
the  Borducks  !"  holding  a  bottle  up  to  let  the  light  fall  through  the 
slow  liquid  amber  of  "Huile  de  Bordeaux." 

The  oil  of  Bordeaux  is  good,  when  not  doctored  upon  this  side 
of  the  water.  There  are  olive  groves  in  other  foreign  lands  that 
send  thousands  of  gallons  of  pure  oil  to  America  to  be  mixed  with 
cheaper  oils,  returned  to  the  bottles  bearing  foreign  labels,  and 
palmed  off  upon  the  most  credulous  public  upon  the  globe  as  the 
yield  of  the  royal  olive. 

224 


SALADS  225 

Pure  salad  oil,  when  it  has  any  perceptible  odor,  should  have  a 
faint  "nutty"  perfume;  it  should  taste  like  the  ripe  olives  from 
which  it  was  expressed;  in  color  it  should  be  palest,  tenderest 
green ;  it  should  blend  readily  and  harmoniously  with  condiments 
and  with  the  body  of  the  salad. 

French  dressing 

Rub  the  inside  of  a  bowl  with  a  clove  of  garlic.  Measure  into 
a  bowl  six  tablespoonfuls  of  oil,  two  of  vinegar,  two  saltspoonfuls 
of  salt,  and  one  of  pepper.  Mix  thoroughly  before  pouring  over 
the  salad. 

Mayonnaise  dressing 

Into  a  chilled  soup  plate  drop  the  yolk  of  an  egg  drained  free 
of  all  the  white,  squeeze  upon  it  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice  and 
stir  in  with  a  silver  fork  until  well  mixed.  Now  add  gradually 
a  few  drops  of  salad  oil,  stirring  steadily.  As  the  dressing  thick- 
ens, add  the  oil  more  freely  until  you  have  used  half  a  pint. 
Season  with  a  dash  of  paprika,  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  mustard,  and  a  generous  tablespoonful  of  vinegar. 

In  making  your  chicken  salad  allow  a  cupful  of  celery  cut  into 
bits  to  every  two  cups  of  the  chicken  dice,  and  make  a  cupful  of 
mayonnaise  for  five  cupfuls  of  the  salad. 

Cream  dressing 

Beat  three  eggs,  yolks  and  whites  together,  until  they  are  very 
light;  add  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  pinch  of  red  pepper,  half  a 
saltspoonful  of  mustard  mixed  with  a  little  water,  and,  lastly, 
three  or  four  tablespoonfuls  of  rich,  sweet  cream. 

Sonr  cream  salad  dressing 

Have  a  cupful  of  rich  sour  cream  very  cold,  then  beat  hard  for 
five  minutes,  adding,  as  you  do  so,  a  tablespoonful  of  powdered 
sugar  and  a  half  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice.     This  dressing  is 
delicious  served  with  chilled  cucumbers,  sliced  thin. 
15 


226  MARION    HARLAND'S   COOK   BOOK 

Boiled  salad  dressing 

Into  three  well-beaten  eggs  stir  a  cupful  of  vinegar,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  two  saltspoonfuls  of  salt,  a  dash  of  paprika,  and 
a  small  teaspoonful  of  French  mustard.  Beat  thoroughly,  turn  into 
a  saucepan,  stir  steadily  until  the  boil  begins,  and  add  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  butter.  When  this  melts  remove  the  dressing  from  the  fire. 
Beat  for  two  minutes  and  set  aside  to  cool.  When  cold  put  in 
the  ice-box,  where  it  will  keep  a  week  or  ten  days. 

Chicken  salad 

Cut  cold,  boiled  chicken  into  small  dice.  With  two  cupfuls  of 
this  meat  mix  a  cupfuj  of  celery  cut  into  dice.  Sprinkle  all  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Into  three  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  stir  a  table- 
spoonful  of  vinegar.  Pour  this  over  the  chicken  and  celery  and 
toss  until  well  mixed.  Line  a  chilled  bowl  with  crisp  lettuce 
leaves,  fill  with  the  chicken  salad  and  pour  mayonnaise  dressing 
over  all. 

Turkey  salad 

Is  made  in  like  manner,  rejecting  the  dark  meat  of  the  legs, 
unless  it  is  very  tender. 

Lobster  salad 

Pick  out  the  meat  from  a  fresh,  well-boiled  lobster.  Cut  with 
a  sharp  knife  into  small  dice,  taking  care  not  to  tear  the  meat. 
Set  on  ice  while  you  make  a  good  mayonnaise,  which,  in  turn, 
must  go  on  the  ice.  Have  ready  one-third  as  much  celery  as  you 
have  lobster,  cut  into  half -inch  lengths.  Mix  together  in  a  bowl, 
sprinkle  with  cayenne  and  salt  and  stir  lightly  into  it  a  cupful  of 
mayonnaise.  Line  a  chilled  bowl  with  crisp  lettuce,  arrange  the 
salad  within  this;  garnish  with  the  lobsters'  claws  and  hard- 
boiled  eggs  cut  into  lengths  lengthwise.  Set  on  ice  until  it  goes  to 
table. 

Crab  salad 

Is  made  in  the  same  way,  omitting  the  eggs  from  the  gar- 
nish. 


SALADS  227 

Oyster  salad 

Choose  small  oysters  for  this  salad.  If  you  can  not  get  these, 
cut  each  oyster  in  half,  but  do  not  chop  them.  Drain  the  liquor 
from  the  oysters,  and  to  every  cupful  of  these  add  a  cupful  of  crisp 
white  celery  cut  into  half-inch  bits  sprinkled  lightly  with  salt. 
Mix  and  stir  mayonnaise  dressing  through  the  mixture.  Line  a 
chilled  bowl  with  lettuce  leaves,  fill  with  the  oyster  salad  and  pour 
a  rich  mayonnaise  over  all.  Garnish  with  stoned  olives. 

Shrimp  salad 

For  this  dish  you  can  use  either  the  fresh  or  the  canned  shrimps. 
If  the  former,  they  must  be  shelled.  If  the  latter,  they  must  be 
taken  from  the  can  several  hours  before  they  are  to  be  used  and 
set  on  the  ice.  Line  a  salad  bowl  with  crisp  lettuce  leaves,  lay 
the  shrimps  upon  these  and  cover  with  mayonnaise  dressing. 
Serve  at  once. 

Shrimp  and  tomato  salad 

Cut  the  tops  from  ripe  tomatoes  and  remove  the  insides.  Fill 
the  tomato  shells  with  cold  boiled  shrimps,  with  their  backs  up; 
set  each  tomato  upon  a  leaf  of  lettuce  and  pour  mayonnaise  dress- 
ing over  all.  A  pretty  salad. 

Grab  and  tomato  salad 

Carefully  strip  the  skin  from  six  large,  firm  tomatoes,  and  re- 
move the  centers.  Fill  the  hollowed  vegetables  with  the  chopped 
and  seasoned  meat  of  six  boiled  crabs.  Set  the  stuffed  tomatoes 
in  the  ice  for  several  hours.  Lay  on  crisp  lettuce  leaves,  and  put 
a  spoonful  of  mayonnaise  dressing  upon  each  tomato. 

Shrimp  salad  and  tomato  aspic 

Strain  the  liquor  from  a  can  of  tomatoes  through  coarse  muslin. 
Put  over  the  fire,  season  with  salt  and  paprika  and  the  strained 
juice  of  a  small  onion.  When  it  boils  skim  well  and  pour  over 


228  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

half  a  box  of  Coxe's  gelatine,  which  has  been  soaked  three  hours 
in  a  cup  of  cold  water.     Set  away  to  form  into  a  jelly. 

When  ready  to  use  it  line  a  salad  dish  with  lettuce,  arrange  the 
contents  of  a  can  of  shrimps  (strained)  upon  the  leaves,  and 
spoonfuls  of  tomato  jelly  upon  the  shrimps.  Send  around  French 
salad  dressing  with  it. 

Salmon  mayonnaise 

Boil  eight  eggs  hard,  throw  into  cold  water ;  peel  and  lay  in  ice. 
Make  a  cup  of  mayonnaise  and  rub  into  it  five  large  clean-cut 
pieces  of  canned  salmon.  Slice  the  eggs,  lay  them  on  lettuce 
leaves  and  pour  over  them  the  salmon  mayonnaise. 


Sardine  salad 

Drain  the  oil  from  a  box  of  sardines  and  squeeze  three  drops 
of  lemon  juice  on  each  fish.  Lay  crisp  lettuce  leaves  in  iced  water 
for  half  an  hour,  then  shake  free  of  moisture  and  lay  on  a  chilled 
platter.  On  each  leaf  lay  a  sardine,  and  upon  this  pour  a  spoon- 
ful of  thick  mayonnaise  dressing.  Garnish  the  edge  of  the  plat- 
ter with  cold  boiled  beets  cut  into  star  shapes.  Serve  with  crack- 
ers and  cream  cheese. 


Egg  salad  with  sardine  mayonnaise 

Boil  eight  eggs  hard,  throw  into  cold  water ;  peel  and  lay  in  the 
ice.  Make  a  cup  of  mayonnaise  and  rub  into  it  four  sardines 
that  have  been  skinned  and  mashed  to  a  paste.  Halve  the  eggs, 
lay  them  on  crisp  lettuce  leaves  and  pour  a  spoonful  of  the  sar- 
dine mayonnaise  over  all. 


Egg  salad  with  boiled  dressing 

Beat  smooth  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  with  one  teaspoonful  of 
sugar,  a  half  teaspoonful  of  mustard,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt, 


SALADS  229 

dash  of  celery  salt,  one  cup  of  vinegar  and  one  cup  of  milk, 
added  alternately  to  prevent  curdling,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
oil;  put  into  double  boiler  and  cook  to  the  consistency  of  thin 
custard,  stirring  all  the  time.  Let  it  get  perfectly  cold.  Line  a 
chilled  dish  with  lettuce  leaves,  heap  hard-boiled  eggs,  cut  into 
quarters,  upon  these  and  pour  over  them  the  dressing. 

Simple  lettuce  salad 

Unless  you  have  an  exceptionally  deft  and  cool-fingered  cook 
or  waiter,  make  the  salad  on  the  table  yourself.  Have,  first,  a 
finger-bowl  passed  quietly  to  you,  into  which  dip  your  fingers, 
drying  them  on  your  napkin.  While  you  do  this  the  waitress  or 
butler  should  set  before  you  the  oil,  vinegar,  pepper  and  salt, 
with  salad  spoon  and  fork  and  a  small  bowl,  in  the  bottom  of 
which  is  a  tablespoonful  of  finely-minced  green  chives.  If  you 
have  not  these,  the  inside  of  the  bowl  should  have  been  rubbed 
well  with  garlic.  Mix  in  the  bowl  of  the  spoon  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt  with  half  as  much  pepper;  fill  the  large  spoon  with  vinegar, 
mixing  salt  and  pepper  well  in  this ;  turn  into  the  mixing  bowl ; 
then  fill  the  spoon  three  times  with  oil.  Stir  and  toss  until  the 
ingredients  are  thoroughly  incorporated.  Two  larger  bowls 
should  be  ready  at  hand,  one  empty,  the  other  heaped  with  crisp, 
cold  lettuce  leaves.  Pick  these  apart  lightly  with  the  tips  of  your 
fingers  and  put  into  the  empty  bowl.  When  all  are  in  pour  the 
dressing  over  the  lettuce,  tossing  lightly  and  quickly  with  salad 
fork  and  spoon.  Pass  at  once  with  heated  crackers  and  fancy 
cheese  of  some  kind. 

Lettuce  and  tomato  salad 

After  tearing  the  lettuce  apart,  lay,  as  on  a  bed,  tomatoes  pared 
and  sliced,  or  cut  into  eighths.  Pour  the  dressing  over  them. 

Salad  should  never  be  touched  with  one's  own  knife,  but  di- 
vided, if  need  be,  with  the  fork.  It  should  not  be  necessary  to 
remind  people  who  know  anything  of  the  by-laws  of  dining  and 
lunching  as  received  by  polite  society,  that  it  is  awkward  and  un- 


230  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

conventional  to  hash  tender  lettuce,  celery  or  cress  with  knife 
and  fork,  clinking  against  the  plate  in  a  castanet  accompaniment 
to  table  talk.  Yet  it  is  done  in  our  sight  and  hearing  almost  every 
day. 

Water  cress  salad 

Tear  apart  gingerly,  pile  in  a  bowl,  and  pour  a  French  dressing 
over  it.  Some  like  to  dip  it  into  salt,  as  celery  is  eaten,  without 
other  dressing. 

Potato  salad  (No.  1) 

Cut  cold-boiled  potatoes  into  tender  slices  and  mix  with  them 
two  raw  white  onions,  minced,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
parsley.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  salad  oil  mixed  with  a  dessertspoonful  of  vinegar. 
Toss  and  turn,  and  put  into  a  salad  bowl.  Set  in  the  ice  for  two 
hours.  Just  before  sending  to  the  table  stir  into  the  salad  a  half 
cupful  of  mayonnaise,  and  pour  the  rest  of  the  dressing  over  the 
top  of  the  salad. 

Potato  salad  (No.  2) 

Peel  eight  potatoes  that  have  been  boiled  in  their  skins  and  al- 
lowed to  cool.  Slice  the  potatoes  into  a  bowl  and  add  to  them  a 
chopped  onion,  which  has  been  scalded  after  it  was  minced.  Sea- 
son the  potato  and  onion  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Pour 
upon  them  five  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  and  two  of  vinegar.  Toss 
up  well  and  let  them  stand  an  hour  before  serving. 

Cauliflower  salad 

Cut  a  young  cauliflower  into  clusters,  boil  tender,  drain  and 
lay  in  the  ice  until  very  cold.  Arrange  on  leaves  of  lettuce  and 
serve  with  mayonnaise  dressing.  A  delicious  salad. 

Eeet  salad 

Boil  eight  young  beets  tender;  drain,  and  lay  in  iced  water 
until  thoroughly  chilled.  Drain  once  more  and  scrape  off  the 


SALADS  231 

skins.  Pour  into  a  bowl  six  tablespoonfuls  of  salad  oil  with  one 
tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  and  stir  into  them  two  saltspoonfuls, 
each,  of  salt  and  pepper.  Stir  this  dressing  thoroughly.  With  a 
sharp  knife  cut  the  chilled  beets  into  tiny  dice  of  uniform  size, 
and  as  you  do  so  drop  these  dice  into  the  French  dressing  in  the 
bowl.  When  all  the  beets  are  cut,  turn  them  over  and  over  in  the 
dressing  that  they  may  become  well  coated.  Set  the  bowl  and 
its  contents  on  the  ice  for  an  hour,  or  until  very  cold.  Line  a 
chilled  salad  bowl  with  crisp  lettuce  leaves.  Drain  all  the  dress- 
ing from  the  beets  into  a  small  glass  bowl.  Upon  each  lettuce 
leaf  put  a  spoonful  of  the  beet  dice.  When  serving,  put  a  spoon- 
ful of  dressing  upon  each  leaf. 

A  macedoine  salad 

One  cup  of  green  peas,  boiled  and  cold,  and  the  same  of  string 
beans  cut  into  half-inch  lengths,  well  cooked  and  suffered  to  get 
cold.  One  cup  of  celery  cut  into  inch-lengths.  One-half  cup  of 
boiled  carrots,  cut  into  tiny  dice,  also  cold.  One  cup  of  red 
beets  boiled  and  cut  into  small  dice.  Leave  all  these  ingredients 
in  the  ice-box  until  chilled  and  stiff.  Have  ready  a  chilled  glass 
or  silver  bowl — a  shallow  one  is  best;  heap  the  beets  in  the  cen- 
ter, arrange  next  to  them  a  ring  of  celery  dice,  then  the  beans, 
next  the  carrots,  lastly  the  peas — all  forming  a  mound.  Pour 
over  this  a  good  French  dressing,  garnish  with  a  wreath  of  nas- 
turtium blooms  about  the  base  and  set  on  the  ice  until  needed. 
Pass,  if  you  like,  a  mayonnaise  dressing  with  it.  The  true  salad 
lover  will,  however,  prefer  the  French  dressing  alone.  It  is  a 
beautiful  salad  and  easily  made.  If  you  can  not  get  celery  in 
summer,  substitute  boiled  corn  cut  from  the  cob  to  make  the 
white  ring. 

A  fruit  salad 

Pare  four  juicy,  sweet  oranges,  peel  off  every  bit  of  the  white 
inner  skin  from  the  fruit  it  incloses,  pull  the  lobes  apart,  and  cut 
each  into  four  pieces. 

Scald  a  cupful  of  English  walnut  kernels,  strip  away  the  bitter 


232  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

skin  and  let  the  kernels  get  dry  and  cold.  Mix  with  the  bits  of 
orange,  set  on  the  ice  for  an  hour,  heap  in  a  glass  salad  dish  lined 
with  crisp  lettuce  and  cover  with  a  good  mayonnaise  dressing. 

Some  consider  a  tablespoonful  of  celery  cut  into  small  pieces 
an  improvement  to  this  dish. 

Apple  and  nut  salad 

Scoop  the  inside  from  fine,  smooth,  tart  apples,  and  fill  them 
with  a  mixture  of  cut-up  celery  and  walnut  meats,  blanched  and 
chopped,  the  whole  well  moistened  with  mayonnaise.  Slices  of 
pippins  are  sometimes  mixed  with  watercress  and  covered  with 
French  dressing,  making  a  piquante  salad  that  is  especially  good 
with  roast  duck. 

Apple  and  celery  salad 

Cut  enough  crisp  celery  into  small  bits  to  make  a  cupful.  Lay 
in  iced  water.  Peel  and  cut  four  large  apples  into  small  dice, 
dropping  these  into  water  as  you  do  so.  Drain  the  celery  and 
sprinkle  it  with  salt.  Drain  the  apples,  mix  with  the  celery,  and 
pour  over  all  a  thick  mayonnaise  dressing.  Serve  very  cold. 

Orange  salad 

Peel  and  divide  the  oranges  into  lobes,  then  cut  each  of  these 
into  three  pieces.  Have  ready  four  tablespoonfuls  of  blanched 
English  walnut  kernels,  cold  and  firm,  for  the  same  number  of 
oranges.  In  serving,  put  a  leaf  of  lettuce  upon  each  plate,  a 
great  spoonful  of  the  cut  oranges  upon  the  leaf  and  on  this  last 
a  spoonful  of  nut-meats.  Pour  a  good  mayonnaise  over  all. 

Bean  and  beet  salad 

Boil  a  half  cupful  of  small  kidney  beans.  There  should  be  a 
cupful  when  cooked.  Cook  until  soft  a  pint  of  tender  string 
beans,  cut  into  inch-lengths.  Boil  tender  four  large,  or  six  small 
red  beets.  Let  all  get  stone-cold.  Cut  the  beets,  then,  into  tiny 
dice.  In  the  center  of  a  glass  dish  heap  the  beets,  next  the  white 


FRUIT    SALAD    IN    BANANA-SKIN 


'  CHICKEN    SALAD    MANTLED    WITH 
CREAM    MAYONNAISE  AND   GARNISHED 


FRUIT   SALAD  GARNISHED   WITH 
MARRONS   GLACES 


SALADS 


233 


beans,  and,  as  an  outer  circle,  the  green.  Edge  with  white  "heart" 
lettuce  leaves,  and  pour  a  French  dressing  over  all. 

A  pretty  and  palatable  salad. 

If  you  use  dried  white  beans  they  must  be  soaked  for  six  hours 
before  boiling. 

Nasturtium  salad 

Cut  fine  the  heart  of  a  large  bunch  of  celery,  mince  a  table- 
spoonful  of  parsley  and  six  blades  of  chives.  Mix  with  a  French 
dressing,  stir  in  lightly  the  petals  of  a  dozen  large  nasturtium 
blossoms;  line  a  salad  bowl  with  crisp  lettuce,  and  put  this  mix- 
ture in  the  center.  Garnish  elaborately  with  nasturtium  leaves 
and  blossoms. 

Dandelion  salad 

Pick  the  young  tender  leaves  of  the  dandelion,  wash  and  lay  in 
ice  water  for  half  an  hour.  Drain,  shake  dry  and  pat  still  drier 
between  the  folds  of  a  napkin.  Turn  into  a  chilled  bowl,  cover 
with  a  French  dressing,  toss  the  greens  over  and  over  in  this  and 
send  at  once  to  table. 

This  is  very  wholesome — and  palatable — to  those  that  like  it ! 

Cabbage  salad 

Shred  a  small  white  cabbage  very  fine.  Heat  a  gill  of  vinegar, 
add  to  it  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  and 
a  dash  of  celery  salt  and  white  pepper.  Bring  to  a  boil,  stir  in  the 
shredded  cabbage,  and  stir  until  very  hot.  Have  ready  a  half  cup- 
ful of  milk,  in  which  a  pinch  of  soda  has  been  dissolved,  and  stir  it 
slowly  into  three  beaten  eggs.  Boil  until  it  is  like  thick  cream. 
Pour  this  mixture  over  the  hot  cabbage,  mix  well  together,  season 
to  taste,  and  turn  into  a  chilled  bowl.  Bury  in  the  ice  until  very 
cold. 

Cold  slaw 

Shred  a  white  cabbage  fine.  Heat  a  cup  of  milk.  Heat,  also, 
a  gill  of  vinegar,  and  when  this  last  is  boiling,  stir  into  it  a  table- 
spoonful,  each,  of  butter  and  sugar,  a  teaspoon ful  of  celery  es- 


234  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

sence,  two  saltspoonfuls  of  salt  and  one  of  pepper.  When  boil- 
ing hard,  stir  in  the  shredded  cabbage,  and  as  soon  as  this  is  really 
hot,  remove  it  from  the  fire.  Pour  the  scalding  milk  slowly  upon 
two  beaten  eggs  and  cook,  stirring  steadily  until  thick,  then  pour 
upon  the  cabbage  and  toss  until  well  mixed.  Set  in  the  ice  for 
two  hours.  Serve  very  cold. 

Cucumber  salad 

Select  small,  firm  cucumbers  of  uniform  size.  Wash  well  in 
cold  water.  Dry  thoroughly.  Make  two  incisions  in  the  top  of  the 
cucumber  about  an  inch  from  each  end  and  about  one-half  inch 
deep.  Next  cut  lengthwise  from  one  incision  to  the  other  care- 
fully and  remove  the  top.  Scoop  out  the  pulp  and  mix  with  salt. 
Then  chop  some  celery  fine  (if  celery  is  out  of  season  substitute 
cabbage),  and  some  blanched  walnut  meats,  also  chopped.  After 
the  cucumber  pulp  has  stood  about  an  hour  in  the  salt  drain  off 
the  water  and  add  the  celery  and  the  nuts.  Mix  thoroughly  with  a 
French  dressing,  and  about  twenty  minutes  before  serving  fill 
up  the  shells,  placing  a  piece  of  parsley  in  each  end. 

Cucumbers  with  lemon  juice 

Lay  fresh  cucumbers  in  the  ice  for  twelve  hours.  Peel  and 
slice  very  thin,  and  send  immediately  to  the  table  covered  with 
crushed  ice.  As  you  dish  them  put  some  of  the  ice  on  each  plate 
and  pour  over  the  cucumbers  a  dressing  made  of  two  parts  of 
salad  oil  and  one  part  of  lemon  juice,  with  salt  and  paprika  to 
taste. 

Daisy  salad 

Cut  two-inch  rounds  of  cream  or  Neufchatel  cheese  one-half 
inch  in  thickness,  and  place  on  crisp  lettuce  leaves.  Put  the  yolks 
of  two  hard-boiled  eggs  through  the  vegetable-press  and  place 
a  teaspoonful  of  this  yellow  powder  in  the  center  of  each  round. 
Serve  mayonnaise  or  French  dressing  in  a  separate  bowl. 


SALADS  235 

Tongue  salad 

Make  a  good  French  dressing.     Dip  into  it  firm,  crisp  lettuce 
leaves.     Have  ready  cold  boiled  tongue,  cut  as  thin  as  writing 
paper.     Lay  a  slice  upon  each  leaf,  and  serve  with  .heated  and  - 
buttered  crackers.     You  can  substitute  ham  for  the  tongue. 

Tomato  aspic 

Soak  a  half-box  of  gelatine  in  a  half-pint  of  water  for  an  hour. 
Bring  to  a  boil  the  liquor  drained  from  a  quart  can  of  tomatoes, 
and  add  to  it  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
sugar,  a  bay  leaf  and  a  teaspoonful  of  minced  parsley,  with  pep- 
per and  salt  to  taste.  Simmer  for  twenty  minutes,  add  the  gela- 
tine, stir  until  dissolved,  and  strain  through  flannel  into  a  jelly 
mold.  Serve  when  firm,  garnished  with  lettuce  and  pour  over  all 
a  mayonnaise  dressing.  This  jelly — in  culinary  phrase,  "aspic" 
— lends  itself  agreeably  to  many  combinations  of  salad,  being  sus- 
ceptible of  countless  variations. 

Tomatoes  with  whipped  cream 

Carefully  peel  and  halve  ripe  tomatoes  and  lay  them  on  the  ice 
for  several  hours.  Transfer  to  a  chilled  platter,  sprinkle  with 
salt,  garnish  with  lettuce  leaves  and  put  a  great  spoonful  of 
whipped  cream  upon  each  tomato  half. 

Tomato  and  corn  salad 

Pour  boiling  water  over  large,  smooth  tomatoes  to  loosen  the 
skins,  and  set  on  ice.  When  perfectly  cold,  gouge  out  the  center 
of  each  tomato  with  a  spoon,  and  fill  the  cavity  with  boiled  corn 
cut  from  the  cob  and  left  to  get  perfectly  cold;  then  mix  with 
mayonnaise  dressing.  Arrange  the  tomatoes  on  a  chilled  platter 
lined  with  lettuce,  and  leave  on  ice  until  wanted.  Pass  more 
mayonnaise  with  the  salad. 


236  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Tomato  and  peanut  salad 

Prepare  the  tomatoes  as  in  the  last  recipe.  Have  ready  a  pint 
or  more  of  roasted  peanut  meats,  blanched  by  pouring  boiling 
water  over  them,  then  skinned,  and  when  cold  pounded  finely 
and  mixed  with  mayonnaise  dressing.  Fill  the  tomatoes  with 
this.  Serve  on  lettuce  leaves. 

Iced  tomato  salad 

(Contributed) 

Cook  a  quart  of  raw  tomatoes  soft,  strain  and  season  with  nut- 
meg, sugar,  paprika,  a  pinch  of  'grated  lemon  peel  and  salt. 
Freeze  until  firm ;  put  a  spoonful  upon  a  crisp  lettuce  leaf  in  each 
plate,  cover  with  mayonnaise  and  serve  immediately.  It  is  still 
prettier  if  you  can  freeze  it  in  round  apple-shaped  molds. 

Canned  tomatoes  may  be  used  if  you  have  not  fresh. 

Clam  salad 

(Contributed) 

Remove  the  skins  and  black  heads  of  cold  clams.  Marinade 
for  ten  minutes  in  a  French  dressing  and  serve  on  a  bed  of 
shredded  lettuce. 

Pear  salad 

(Contributed) 

Peel  and  slice  five  sweet,  ripe  pears,  sprinkle  with  fine  sugar, 
and  add  a  little  maraschino  or  ginger  syrup.  Serve  with  a  little 
cream.  Or  pare  and  slice  enough  ripe,  sweet  pears  to  make  one 
pint ;  add  one-half  cupful  of  blanched  and  chopped  almonds,  one- 
fourth  of  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar  and  the  strained  juice  of 
two  lemons.  Serve  in  a  cup  of  lettuce  leaves  made  by  placing 
together  the  stem  end  of  two  lettuce  leaves  taken  from  the  inside 
of  a  head  of  lettuce. 


TOMATO    SALAD    WITH 
WHIPPED    CREAM    DRESSING 


SALADS 


SALADS  237 

Hot  potato  salad 

(Contributed) 

Put  into  a  frying-pan  one-fourth  of  a  pound  of  bacon,  cut  into 
dice;  when  light  brown  take  out  and  saute  in  the  fat  a  small 
onion  cut  fine.  Add  one-half  as  much  vinegar  as  fat,  a  few 
grains  of  salj  and  cayenne  and  one-half  as  much  hot  stock  as 
vinegar.  Have  ready  the  potatoes  boiled  in  skins.  Remove  the 
skins  and  slice  hot  into  the  frying-pan  enough  to  take  up  the 
liquid.  Add  the  diced  bacon,  toss  together  and  serve. 

Asparagus  and  shrimp  salad 

(Contributed) 

To  one  cupful  of  shrimps  add  two  cupfuls  of  cold  cooked 
asparagus  tips,  and  toss  lightly  together.  Season  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Make  a  dressing  of  the  yolks  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs, 
rubbed  through  a  sieve,  and  sufficient  oil  and  vinegar  to  make  the 
consistency  of  cream,  using  twice  as  much  oil  as  vinegar.  Pour 
over  the  asparagus  and  shrimps. 

Asparagus  salad 

(Contributed) 

Asparagus  tips  heaped  on  lettuce  leaves  and  served  with 
French,  mayonnaise  or  boiled  dressing,  poured  over  all,  make  a 
very  good  salad. 

Endive  salad 

(Contributed) 

Use  the  well-blanched  leaves  only.  Wipe  these  with  a  damp 
cloth.  Pour  over  this  a  French  dressing  and  serve  with  roasted 
game. 

Sweetbreads  and  cucumber  salad 

(Contributed) 

Marinate  one  pair  of  sweetbreads  in  French  dressing.  Chill 
thoroughly.  Drain  and  mix  with  equal  parts  of  sliced  cucumber; 


238  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

cover  with  French  dressing  into  which  has  been  stirred  whipped 
cream. 

Spinach  salad 

(Contributed) 

Select  the  young,  tender  leaves  from  the  center  of  the  stock; 

wash  carefully,  drain  and  chill  and  serve  with  French  dressing. 

* 

Lenten  salad 

(Contributed) 

Line  the  bottom  of  the  salad-dish  with  crisp  lettuce  leaves. 
Fill  the  center  of  the  dish  with  cold  boiled  or  baked  fish,  cut  into 
pieces,  and  pour  over  it  a  pint  of  mayonnaise  dressing.  Gar- 
nish with  rings  of  hard-boiled  eggs. 

Apple  and  cress  salad 
(Contributed) 

Pare  and  cut  into  small  pieces  four  medium-sized  apples.  Pour 
over  this  a  French  dressing.  Pick  carefully  the  leaves  from  a 
bunch  of  cress.  Arrange  around  the  outside  of  the  salad-dish 
and  heap  the  apples  in  the  center  of  the  dish. 

Strawberry  salad 

(Contributed) 

Choose  the  heart  from  a  nice  head  of  lettuce,  putting  the  stems 
together  to  form  a  cup.  Put  a  few  strawberries  in  the  center  and 
cover  with  powdered  sugar  and  one  teaspoonful  of  mayonnaise 
dressing. 

Banana  salad 

(Contributed) 

Sliced  bananas,  served  in  the  same  manner  as  the  strawberries 
in  the  above  recipe,  make  an  excellent  salad. 


SALADS  239 

Veal  salad 
(Contributed) 

Use  equal  parts  of  well-cooked  cold  veal  cut  into  small  pieces, 
and  finely-chopped  white  cabbage.  Marinate  the  veal  for  two 
hours.  Drain  and  mix  with  the  cabbage.  Season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  a  little  chopped  pickle,  and  cover  with  mayonnaise 
dressing. 

Cherry  salad 

i 

(Contributed) 

Stone  a  pint  of  large  cherries,  being  careful  not  to  bruise  the 
fruit.  Place  a  hazelnut  in  each  cherry  to  preserve  the  form. 
Chill  thoroughly,  arrange  in  a  salad  dish  on  lettuce  leaves  and 
pour  over  all  a  cream  mayonnaise  dressing. 

Peach  salad 

(Contributed) 

Pare  a  quart  of  ripe  yellow  peaches,  and  cut  into  thin  slices ; 
slice  very  thin  a  half  cupful  of  blanched  almonds.  Mix  the  fruit 
and  nuts  with  two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  mayonnaise,  to  which  has 
been  added  one-third  of  a  cupful  of  whipped  cream.  Serve  im- 
mediately on  lettuce  leaves. 

Ham  salad 
(Contributed) 

Mix  equal  portions  of  minced,  well-cooked  ham  and  English 
walnuts  or  almonds.  Serve  with  mayonnaise  on  lettuce  leaves. 

Sweetbreads  with  celery  salad 

(Contributed) 

Wash  the  sweetbreads  thoroughly  and  let  them  stand  in  cold 
water  half  an  hour.  Boil  in  salted  water  twenty  minutes  and  then 
put  in  cold  water  again  for  a  few  minutes,  to  harden.  To  one 
cupful  of  minced  sweetbreads  add  one  cupful  of  diced  celery  and 


240  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

one-half  cupful  of  chopped  nuts.     Cover  well  with  mayonnaise 
dressing  to  which  some  whipped  cream  has  been  added. 

Green  bean  salad 

(Contributed) 

Select  fresh  string  beans  and  boil  until  tender  in  salted  water. 
Or  use  a  good  quality  of  canned  string  beans.  Arrange  on  a  dish 
and  serve  with  mayonnaise  dressing. 

Pea  salad 

(Contributed) 

Drain  and  press  through  a  sieve  a  can  of  green  peas.  Dis- 
solve one  box  of  gelatine  in  one-fourth  of  a  cup  of  cold  water  and 
stir  over  a  hot  fire  until  heated.  Take  from  the  fire  and  add  one- 
fourth  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  a  dash  of  pepper.  Serve  very  cold  with  the  following  dress- 
ing: Put  into  a  double  boiler  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  stock  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil.  Stir  until 
thick,  take  from  the  fire  and  add  slowly  one  tablespoonful  of 
tarragon  vinegar,  one  chopped  olive  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
chopped  parsley. 


LUNCHEON  FRUITS,  COOKED  AND  RAW 

Stewed  rhubarb 

Select  only  good,  firm  stalks,  and  reject  those  that  are  withered. 
Lay  them  in  cold  water  for  an  hour,  and  cut  into  half-inch  pieces. 
Put  them  over  the  fire  in  a  porcelain-lined  saucepan  and  strew 
each  layer  plentifully  with  sugar.  Pour  in  enough  water  to  cover 
all,  and  bring  very  slowly  to  a  boil.  Let  the  rhubarb  stew  gently 
until  it  is  very  tender,  then  remove  from  the  fire.  When  cold, 
serve  with  plain  cake. 

Rhubarb  and  raisins 

For  every  cupful  of  raw  rhubarb  cut  into  inch  lengths  add  a 
third  as  much  of  raisins  seeded  and  cut  in  half.  Cook  until  soft, 
as  directed  in  last  recipe. 

Rhubarb  and  dates 

Stone  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  dates,  cover  with  hot  water,  and 
cook  five  minutes.  Add  three  cupfuls  of  raw  rhubarb,  cut  into 
inch  lengths,  and  cook,  closely  covered,  until  the  rhubarb  is  ten- 
der. Sweeten  to  taste  and  set  aside  to  cool  in  a  covered  bowl, 
after  which  set  on  ice  until  needed. 

Rhubarb  and  figs 

Soak  a  quarter-pound  of  figs  in  warm  water  for  two  hours. 
Cut  into  small  pieces  and  cook  as  previously  directed  with  three 
cups  of  raw  rhubarb,  cut  into  inch  lengths,  until  the  rhubarb  is 
tender.  Eat  cold. 

This  dish  is  cooling  to  the  blood,  gently  laxative  and  pleasing 
to  the  taste. 

16  241 


242  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Stewed  gooseberries 

Remove  the  tops  and  stems  from  one  quart  of  gooseberries, 
wash  and  drain.  Put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  barely  enough 
boiling  water  to  cover  them.  Let  them  stew  until  tender.  Dis- 
solve one  cupful  of  sugar  in  one-half  cupful  of  water  and  boil  to  a 
syrup,  then  mix  it  with  the  fruit  and  set  away  to  cool. 

Agate-nickel-steel  ware  is  altogether  the  best  in  the  market  for 
stewing  acid  fruits.  They  should  never  be  cooked  in  tin  or  in 
iron,  and  unless  copper  has  just  been  cleaned  with  vinegar  to 
remove  all  suspicion  of  verdigris,  the  use  of  it  is  dangerous.  I 
can  not  say  too  much  of  the  ware  I  have  named.  It  is  easily  kept 
clean,  durable  and  safe. 

Hot  green  apple  sauce 

Utilize  in  this  way  early  windfalls  and  unripe  summer  apples, 
proverbially  dear  to  the  heart  of  the  small  boy  and  harmful  to 
his  digestive  organs. 

Pare  and  slice  thin  with  a  silver  knife  or  with  a  fruit-knife  of 
Swedish  bronze.  The  crude  acid  forms  an  instant  and  unpleasant 
combination  with  steel.  As  you  slice,  drop  into  cold  water  to 
keep  the  color.  Cook  in  an  agate-nickel-steel  saucepan,  with 
just  enough  boiling  water  to  keep  the  apples  from  burning  to  the 
bottom.  Fit  on  a  close  lid  and  do  not  open  the  pan  for  half  an 
hour,  lest  the  steam  escape.  Shake  up,  and  sidewise,  every  ten 
minutes  to  insure  uniform  steaming.  When  the  half-hour  is  up 
open  the  saucepan,  and  if  the  apples  are  soft  rub  quickly  through 
a  colander  of  the  same  ware  with  the  saucepan.  Beat  in  sugar 
to  taste,  also  a  lump  of  butter — about  a  tablespoonful  to  a  quart 
of  the  stewed  fruit ;  turn  into  a  covered  bowl  and  serve  hot.  Pass 
thin  graham  bread  and  butter  with  it. 

It  is  wholesome,  anti-bilious  and  palatable. 

Cold  apple  sauce 

Make  in  the  same  way  of  ripe,  tart  apples,  a  seasoning  with 
mace  or  nutmeg  to  taste.  When  it  has  cooled  set  on  ice  until 
wanted. 


LUNCHEON    FRUITS,    COOKED   AND   RAW     243 

Stewed  apples 

Pare  and  core  a  dozen  tart,  juicy  apples.  Put  them  into  a 
saucepan  with  just  enough  cold  water  to  cover  them.  Cook 
slowly  until  they  are  tender  and  clear.  Then  remove  the  apples 
to  a  bowl,  and  cover  to  keep  hot;  put  the  juice  into  a  saucepan 
with  a  cupful  of  sugar,  and  boil  for  half  an  hour.  Season  with 
mace  or  nutmeg.  Pour  hot  over  the  apples  and  set  away  cov- 
ered until  cold.  Eat  with  cream. 

Baked  sweet  apples 

Wash  and  core,  but  do  not  pare  them.  Arrange  in  a  deep 
pudding-dish;  put  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar  and  the  tiniest  imagi- 
nable bit  of  salt  into  the  cavities  left  by  coring;  pour  in  a  half 
cupful  of  water  for  a  large  dishful  of  apples;  cover  closely  and 
bake  in  a  good  oven  forty  minutes  or  until  soft. 

Eat  ice-cold,  with  cream  and  sugar. 

Stewed  prunes 

Wash  dried  prunes  and  soak  them  for  at  least  five  hours  in 
cold  water.  Put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  enough  water  to 
cover  them  and  simmer  very  gently  for  twenty  minutes.  Now 
add  sufficient  granulated  sugar  to  sweeten  liberally,  and  simmer 
until  the  prunes  are  tender.  Take  from  the  fire  and  set  aside  to 
cool.  Eat  with  plain  cake. 

Steamed  prunes 

Soak  as  directed  above.  Place  them  in  a  covered  roaster  and 
steam  steadily  for  two  hours.  Make  a  syrup  in  a  separate  vessel 
with  the  water  left  from  the  soaking.  This  recipe  is  especially 
suited  to  those  who  desire  but  little  sugar  in  prunes,  as  but  little 
sweetness  can  be  added  to  the  prunes  in  steaming. 

Never  boil  prunes,  as  the  flavor  is  thereby  injured.  When 
cooked  as  directed,  if  the  syrup  is  not  heavy  enough  to  suit,  re- 
move the  prunes  from  the  syrup  and  boil  the  syrup  down  to  the 
required  consistency. 


244  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Stewed  prunelles  and  sultanas 

Prunelles  are  more  than  subacid,  and  need  the  modifying  in- 
fluence of  sweeter  fruits.  Allow  equal  parts  of  prunelles  and  of 
the  small  sultana  raisins.  Wash  the  fruit  in  tepid  water,  and 
soak  it  in  enough  cold  water  to  cover  it  for  several  hours,  on  the 
back  of  the  range.  Draw  them  forward  where  they  will  simmer 
gently  until  soft.  Add  sugar  to  taste,  let  the  syrup  boil  up  once, 
then  set  away  to  cool. 

Dried  apples  and  peaches 

The  prejudice  against  the  dried  apple  of  commerce  is  pro- 
nounced, and  founded  upon  traditions  we  should  have  outlived. 
The  kiln-dried  fruit  of  to-day  is  a  respectable  edible  and  capable 
of  excellent  results.  It  is  especially  good  if  mixed  with  equal 
parts  of  dried  peaches,  soaked  for  three  hours  in  just  enough 
tepid  water, to  cover  the  fruit  (having  been  first  washed)  ;  then 
put  over  the  fire  with  the  water  in  which  they  were  soaked,  and 
simmer  tender.  Rub  through  a  colander,  add  sugar,  cinnamon 
and  cloves  to  taste,  and  let  the  mixture  get  perfectly  cold. 

Stewed  cherries 

None  of  our  small  fruits  are  more  injured  by  transportation 
than  these  same  luscious  and  ruddy  lobes.  If  you  must  buy 
cherries  which  are  brought  from  a  distance  and  are,  of  necessity 
several  days  old,  cook  them  if  you  regard  the  welfare  of  the  di- 
gestive organs  of  your  family.  The  verse  that  tells  us  "cher- 
ries are  ripe"  would  be  more  reassuring  if  it  also  informed  us  that 
they  were  recently  picked. 

Wash  and  pick  over  carefully;  put  over  the  fire  in  a  "safe" 
saucepan,  such  as  I  have  already  indicated,  with  just  enough 
water  to  prevent  burning,  cover  closely  and  stew  until  soft,  but 
not  broken.  Strain  off  the  liquor;  set  aside  the  cherries  in  a 
covered  bowl,  add  three  tablespoon fuls  of  su°-ar  to  each  pint  of 
the  juice,  return  to  the  fire ;  boil  fast  for  half  an  hour  and  pour 
over  the  fruit.  Keep  covered  until  cold. 


LUNCHEON    FRUITS,    COOKED    AND   RAW     245 

Raw  cherries 

To  be  eaten  at  their  raw  best  they  should  be  kept  in  the  ice- 
box until  needed.  Then  they  may  be  served  with  their  stems 
still  on  in  a  glass  bowl  with  fragments  of  ice  scattered  among 
them. 

Sugared  cherries 

Use  large,  firm  cherries  for  this  dish.  Have  in  front  of  you  a 
soup-plate  containing  the  whites  of  three  eggs  mixed  with  five 
tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water,  another  plate  filled  with  sifted 
powdered  sugar  at  your  right,  the  bowl  of  cherries  at  your  left. 
Dip  each  cherry  in  the  water  and  white  of  egg,  turn  it  over  and 
over  in  the  sugar  and  lay  on  a  chilled  platter  to  dry.  When  all 
are  done  sift  more  powdered  sugar  over  the  fruit  and  arrange 
carefully  on  a  glass  dish. 

Glace  cherries 

Select  firm,  sweet  cherries  from  which  the  stems  have  not  been 
removed.  Into  a  perfectly  clean  porcelain-lined  saucepan  put  a 
pound  of  granulated  sugar  and  a  gill  of  cold  water,  and  boil  to  a 
syrup.  Do  not  stir  during  the  process  of  cooking.  Try  the 
syrup  occasionally  by  dropping  a  little  in  cold  water.  When  it 
changes  to  a  brittle  candy  it  is  done.  Remove  the  saucepan  at 
once  from  the  fire  and  set  it  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water.  Dip  each 
cherry  quickly  in  the  hot  syrup  and  lay  on  a  waxed  paper  to  dry. 
If  the  syrup  shows  signs  of  becoming  too  thick,  add  more  boiling 
water  to  that  in  the  outside  pan.  When  all  the  cherries  have  been 
"dipped"  stand  them  in  a  warm  place  to  dry. 

Pineapple  and  orange 

Cut  the  top  from  a  pineapple  and  carefully  remove  the  inside, 
so  that  the  shell  may  not  be  broken.  Cut  the  pulp  into  bits,  mix 
it  with  the  pulp  of  three  ripe  oranges,  also  cut  very  small,  and 
liberally  sweeten  the  mixture.  Smooth  off  the  bottom  of  the 
pineapple  shell  so  that  it  will  stand  upright,  refill  with  the  fruit 
pulp,  put  on  the  tip  and  set  in  the  ice  for  three  hours. 


246  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Creamed  peaches 

Lay  large,  ripe  free-stone  peaches  on  the  ice  for  several  hours, 
peel,  cut  them  in  half  and  remove  the  stones.  Whip  half  a  pint 
of  cream  light,  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar. 
Fill  the  hollows  left  by  the  stones  to  heaping  with  the  whipped 
cream.  Keep  in  the  ice-box  until  time  to  serve  the  fruit. 

Grapefruit  and  strawberries 

Cut  grapefruit  in  half  and  remove  the  tough  fiber  and  part  of 
the  pulp.  Chop  this  pulp  and  add  it  to  mashed  and  sweetened 
strawberries.  Refill  the  grapefruit  rinds  with  the  mixture,  and 
set  on  the  ice  for  an  hour  or  two. 

Strawberries  and  cream 

Cap  the  berries,  one  at  a  time,  using  the  tips  of  your  fingers. 
The  practice  of  holding  capped  berries  in  the  hollow  of  the  hand 
until  one  has  as  many  as  the  space  will  accommodate,  is  unclean 
and  unappetizing.  Cap  them  deftly  and  quickly,  letting  each  fall 
into  a  chilled  bowl,  and  do  this  just  before  serving,  keeping  in  a 
cool  place  until  they  are  ready  to  go  to  table.  Pass  powdered 
sugar  and  cream,  also  ice-cold,  with  them. 

Raspberries  and  cream 

Follow  the  directions  given  in  last  recipe. 

Bartlett  pears  and  cream 

Select  sweet,  ripe  pears  and  lay  them  in  the  ice  for  two  hours. 
Do  not  peel  until  just  before  they  are  needed.  Pare  deftly  and 
quickly,  slice,  sprinkle  with  sugar,  cover  with  cream  and  serve. 

Bananas  and  cream 

Bananas  are  very  good  treated  as  the  pears  were  in  the  last 
recipe.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  bury  these  in  the  ice  until  wanted  for 
dessert.  Then  the  hostess  may,  at  the  table,  quickly  peel  and 
slice  them  into  different  saucers.  Bananas  thus  prepared  do  not 
have  time  to  become  discolored  from  exposure  to  the  air. 


SWEET  OMELETS 

Apple  sauce  omelet  (baked) 

Beat  the  yolks  of  seven  eggs  light;  stir  into  them  five  table- 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  and  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  sweetened 
apple  sauce.  Beat  long  and  hard,  stir  in  the  stiffened  whites, 
beat  for  a  minute  longer  and  turn  into  a  greased  pudding-dish. 
Bake,  covered,  for  about  ten  minutes,  then  uncover  and  brown. 
Serve  at  once  with  whipped  cream.  It  is  also  good  served  with 
a  hot  sauce  made  by  the  following  recipe : 

Into  a  pint  of  boiling  water  stir  a  half-cupful  of  sugar,  and  when 
this  dissolves  add  a  teaspoonful  of  butter,  the  juice  and  the 
grated  rind  of  a  lemon  and  the  stiffened  white  of  an  egg.  Beat 
for  a  minute  over  the  fire,  but  do  not  let  the  sauce  boil. 

Jam  omelet 

Beat  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  light  with  a  heaping  tablespoonful 
of  powdered  sugar.  Into  this  stir  a  teaspoonful  of  corn-starch 
dissolved  in  three  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  then  the  stiffened  whites 
of  the  eggs.  Cook  in  a  frying-pan  until  set ;  spread  with  straw- 
berry jam,  fold  and  serve  as  dessert. 

Omelet  souffle 

Beat  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  very  light,  adding,  gradually,  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar.  In  another  dish  whip  the 
whites  to  a  standing  froth.  With  a  few  long  strokes  blend  the 
two ;  pour  into  a  buttered  bake-dish  and  bake  quickly.  Sift  pow- 
dered sugar  on  the  top  at  the  end  of  two  minutes,  and  very 
quickly,  as  the  omelet  will  fall  if  the  oven  stands  open  even  a 
few  seconds.  Serve  at  once  in  the  bake-dish. 

247 


248  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Orange  omelet 
(Contributed) 

Beat  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  together  until  thick  and  lemon- 
colored.  Add  five  tablespoonfuls  of  orange  juice,  the  grated 
rind  of  one  orange  and  five  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar. 
Then  fold  in  lightly  the  beaten  whites  of  four  eggs.  Put  a  little 
butter  in  an  omelet  pan,  and  when  hot  pour  in  the  omelet  mix- 
ture and  spread  in  evenly.  Let  it  cook  through,  but  not  harden. 
Fold  the  edges  over  and  turn  out  upon  a  hot  dish.  Serve  with  a 
dressing  of  sliced  oranges  and  powdered  sugar. 

Omelet  with  marmalade 
(Contributed) 

Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  very  light.  Then  fold  in  the 
whites  beaten  dry.  Turn  into  an  omelet  pan  in  which  one 
teaspoonful  of  butter  has  been  melted.  Spread  the  omelet  evenly 
and  cook  over  a  slow  fire  to  set  the  eggs.  Then  put  in  the  oven 
until  done.  Spread  one-half  of  the  omelet  with  marmalade,  fold 
and  serve  on  hot  platter. 


FAMILIAR  TALK 

A  commonsensible  talk  with  the  nominal  mistress  of  the  house 

THERE  is  not  that  household  in  the  land  where  servants  are 
employed  which  is  not  measurably  dependent  upon  them  for 
peace  of  mind  as  well  as  for  comfort  of  body.  Every  housewife 
who  reads  this  will  recall  the  sinking  of  heart,  the  damp  depres- 
sion of  spirit,  which  has  suddenly  overtaken  a  cheerful  mood 
when  the  kitchen  barometer  beckoned  "storm"  or  "change." 
Such  an  overtaking  is  not  an  affliction,  but  it  sometimes  comes 
dangerously  near  to  sorrow.  The  independent  maid  of  all  work 
has  it  in  her  power  to  alter  the  family  plans  with  a  word,  when 
that  word  is  "going."  Should  she  elect  to  stay,  her  lowering 
brows  and  sharp  or  sullen  speech  abash  a  mistress  who  quails  at 
little  else.  In  wealthier  households  a  domestic  "strike"  involves 
panic,  disorder  and  suffering. 

I  know  of  a  wet-nurse  whose  abandonment  of  her  infant 
charge,  without  a  word  of  warning,  at  ten  o'clock  one  Saturday 
night,  caused  a  long  and  terrible  illness,  resulting  in  infantile  par- 
alysis. A  cook  who  had  lived  in  one  family  for  three  years  re- 
sented the  arrival  of  unexpected  guests,  packed  her  trunk  and  left 
her  mistress  to  get  dinner.  The  lady  was  in  delicate  health  and 
all  unused  to  such  work.  She  became  overheated  and  exhausted, 
took  a  heavy  cold,  which  ripened  into  pneumonia,  and  died  three 
days  after  the  cook's  desertion. 

I  need  not  multiply  illustrations  of  the  helplessness  of  Amer- 
ican housewives  in  the  face  of  such  disasters,  and  the  possibility 
that  these  may  befall  any  one  of  us.  We  have  no  redress.  The 
women  who  helped  organize  the  "Protective  League"  know  this. 
The  law  does  not  protect  the  employer.  Public  opinion  gives  her 
no  support.  The  cook  whose  fit  of  temper  cost  a  kind  mistress 

249 


250  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

her  life  was  recommended  to  me  within  a  month  after  an  event 
that  should  have  shocked  the  moral  sense  of  every  housewife  in 
the  community,  and  recommended  by  a  friend  of  the  murdered 
woman  and  of  myself.  When  I  exclaimed  in  surprise,  I  was  told : 
"We  can  not  be  judges  of  our  neighbors'  domestic  affairs." 

There  is  no  class  spirit  among  us.  For  some  reasons  this  is  a 
matter  of  congratulation  to  us  and  the  public.  All  that  is  needed 
to  make  the  opening  gulf  between  mistresses  and  maids  impas- 
sible is  organization  on  our  part,  which  signifies  open  war.  It 
is,  nevertheless,  I  note  in  passing,  patent  that  there  should  be  a 
code  of  honor  among  us  with  regard  to  employment  of  those 
who  have  proved  absolutely  untrustworthy  in  other  households. 

We  are  not  true  to  one  another  in  this  matter,  and  our  em- 
ployees, who  are  held  together  by  the  unwritten  laws  of  a  union, 
none  the  less  strong  because  nameless  and  informal,  know  this  as 
well  as  we  do.  The  knowledge  is  one  of  the  most  potent  weapons 
in  their  armory. 

Let  this  pass  for  the  present.  I  would  direct  your  attention, 
my  sister-worker  in  the  home  missionary  field,  to  the  brighter 
side  of  the  vexed  question. 

After  forty  years'  careful  study  of  this  matter  of  domestic 
service — study  carried  on  in  other  lands  as  well  as  in  our  own — 
I  record  thankfully  my  conviction  that  the  domestics  in  well- 
regulated  American  homes  are  better  cared  for,  better  paid  and 
more  thoroughly  appreciated  than  any  other  class  of  working 
women  in  this  country  or  abroad.  I  record,  likewise  and  con- 
fidently, that  the  proportion  of  faithful,  valued  and  even  beloved 
domestics  among  us  is  much  larger  than  that  of  indifferent  or 
worthless.  Most  cheerfully  and  thankfully  I  add  to  this  record 
that,  personally,  I  have  a  list  of  honest,  virtuous,  willing  work- 
ers, whose  terms  of  service  in  my  family  varied  from  three  to 
thirteen  years,  and  who  went  from  my  house  to  homes  of  their 
own,  bearing  with  them  the  cordial  esteem  of  those  they  had 
served.  Nor  is  my  experience  singular,  even  in  these  United 
States.  It  is  so  far  from  being  exceptional  that  I  deprecate,  al- 
most as  an  individual  grievance,  any  attempt  to  organize  those 
who  should  be  our  coworkers  into  a  faction  that  considers  us  as 


FAMILIAR   TALK  251 

"the  opposition."  It  is  a  putting  asunder  of  those  whom  a  mu- 
tual need  should  join  together. 

Backed  by  my  two-score  years  of  experiment  and  action,  I  dare 
believe  that  a  leaf  or  two  from  my  book  of  household  happenings 
may  be  of  service  to  younger  women  and  novices  in  the  profes- 
sion which  absorbs  the  major  part  of  our  time  and  strength. 

To  begin  with — beware  of  discouragement  during  the  early 
trial-days  of  the  new  maid.  Be  slow  to  say,  even  to  yourself: 
"She  will  never  suit  me !"  The  first  days  and  weeks  of  a  strange 
"place"  are  a  crucial  test  for  her  as  for  you,  and  she  has  not  your 
sense  of  proportion,  your  discipline  of  emotion  and  your  philo- 
sophical spirit  to  help  her  to  endure  the  discomforts  of  new  ma- 
chinery. 

Looking  back  upon  my  housewifely  experiences,  I  am  moved 
to  the  conclusion  that  the  domestics  who  stayed  with  me  longest 
and  served  me  best  were  those  who  did  not  promise  great  things 
in  their  novitiate. 

One — "a  greenhorn,  but  six  weeks  in  the  country" — frankly 
owned  that  she  knew  nothing  of  American  houses  and  ways.  She 
was  "willing  to  learn,"  and — with  a  childish  tremble  of  the  chin— 
"didn't  mind  how  hard  she  worked  if  people  were  kind  to  her." 
I  think  the  quivering  chin  and  the  clouding  of  the  "Irish  blue" 
eyes  moved  me  to  give  her  a  trial.  She  did  not  know  a  silver 
fork  from  a  pepper  cruet,  or  a  tea-strainer  from  a  colander,  and 
distinguished  the  sideboard  from  the  buffet  by  calling  the  one  the 
"big,"  the  other  the  "little  dresser."  She  had  been  with  me  a 
month  when  I  trusted  her  to  prepare  some  melons  for  dessert, 
giving  her  careful  and  minute  directions  how  to  halve  the  nutmeg 
melons,  take  out  the  seeds  and  fill  the  cavities  with  cracked  ice, 
while  the  watermelon— royal  in  proportions  and  the  first  fruits 
of  our  own  vines— was  to  be  washed,  wiped,  and  kept  in  the  ice- 
chest  until  it  was  wanted. 

At  dinner  the  "nutmegs"  appeared  whole ;  the  watermelon  had 
been  cut  across  the  middle  and  eviscerated— scraped  down  to  the 
white  lining  of  the  rind— then  filled  with  pounded  ice.  The 
succulent  sweetness,  the  rosy  lusciousness  of  the  heart,  had  gone 
into  the  garbage  can. 


252  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Nevertheless,  I  kept  blue-eyed  Margaret  for  eight  years.  She 
stands  out  in  my  grateful  memory  as  the  one  and  only  maid  I 
have  ever  had  who  washed  dishes  "in  my  way."  Never  having 
learned  any  other,  she  mastered  and  maintained  the  proper 
method. 

The  best  nursery-maid  I  ever  knew,  and  who  blessed  my  house- 
hold for  eleven  years,  objected  diffidently  at  our  first  interview  to 
giving  a  list  of  her  qualifications  for  the  situation.  She  "would 
rather  a  lady  would  find  out  for  herself  by  a  fair  trial  whether 
she  would  fit  the  place  or.  not."  I  engaged  her  because  the 
quaint  phrase  took  my  fancy.  She  proved  such  a  perfect  fit  that 
she  continued  to  fill  the  place  until  she  went  to  a  snug  home  of 
her  own. 

What  may  be  called  the  New  Broom  of  Commerce  has  no  mis- 
givings as  to  her  ability  to  fill  any  place,  however  important. 
Upon  inquiry  of  the  would-be  employer  as  to  the  latter's  qualifi- 
cations for  that  high  position,  the  N.  B.  of  C.  may  decline  to  ac- 
cept her  offer  of  an  office  which  promises  more  work  than  "privi- 
leges." But  she  could  fill  it — full — if  she  were  willing  to  "take 
service"  with  the  applicant. 

One  of  the  oddest  incongruities  of  the  new-broom'  problem  is 
that  we  are  always  disposed  to  take  it  at  its  own  valuation.  With 
each  fresh  experiment  we  are  confident  that — at  last!-^we  have 
what  we  have  been  looking  for  lo!  these  many  years.  She  is  a 
shrewd  house-mother  who  reserves  judgment  until  the  first  awk- 
ward week  or  the  crucial  first  month  has  brought  out  the  staying 
power  or  proved  the  lack  of  it. 

Officious  activity  in  unusual  directions  is  a  bad  omen  in  the  New 
Broom  of  Commerce.  In  sporting  parlance,  I  at  once  "saw  the 
finish"  of  one  whom  I  found  upon  the  second  day  of  service  with 
me  washing  a  window  in  the  cellar.  She  "couldn't  abide  dirt  no- 
where," she  informed  me,  scrubbing  vehemently  at  the  dim  panes. 
I  had  just  passed  through  the  kitchen  where  a  prateful  of  fiery 
coals  was  heating  the  range  plates  to  an  angry  glow.  All  the 
drafts  were  open ;  the  boiler  over  the  sink  was  at  a  bubbling 
roar ;  upon  the  tables  was  a  litter  of  dirty  plates  and  dishes ;  pots, 
pans  and  kettles  filled  the  sink. 


FAMILIAR   TALK  253 

It  is  well  to  have  a  care  of  the  corners,  but  the  weightier  mat- 
ters of  the  law  of  cleanliness  are  usually  in  full  sight. 

I  once  knew  a  woman  who,  deliberately,  and  of  purpose, 
changed  servants  every  month.  She  said  no  new  broom  lasted 
more  than  four  weeks,  and  when  one  became  grubby  and  stumpy 
she  got  rid  of  it.  Her  house  was  the  cleanest  in  town  and  her 
temper  did  not  seem  worse  for  friction. 

Another  woman  who,  strange  to  te":,  lived  to  be  ninety  years 
old,  "liked  moving"  and  never  lived  two  years  in  one  and  the 
same  house.  She  maintained  that  she  kept  clear  of  rubbish  by 
frequent  flittings,  and  enjoyed  rubbing  out  and  beginning  again. 
Personally,  I  should  have  preferred  a  clean,  lively  conflagration 
every  three  years  or  so,  but  she  throve  upon  nomadism. 

In  minor  details  of  housewifery,  as  in  more  important,  make 
up  your  mind  how  you  will  manage  the  home  and  turn  a  deaf  ear 
to  gratuitous  suggestions  from  people  whose  own  households 
would  be  better  conducted  if  their  energies  were  concentrated. 

Let  one  example  suffice :  A  so-called  reformer  felt  herself 
called  in  (or  out  of)  the  Gospel  of  Humanity,  the  other  day,  to 
inveigh  in  a  parlor  lecture  upon  the  unkindness  and  general  un- 
christianliness  of  the  maid's  cap  and  apron  which  all  would-be 
stylish  mistresses  insist  upon.  "Have  I,  a  Christian  woman  in  a 
republic,"  cried  the  oratress,  "the  right  to  put  the  badge  of  servi- 
tude upon  my  sister  woman,  because,  having  less  money  than  I 
have,  she  is  obliged  to  earn  her  living?  Do  I  not  tend  to  degrade, 
instead  of  elevating  her  ? 

"Of  a  piece  with  the  cap  and  apron  is  the  black  dress,  now  'the 
thing'  for  girls  in  domestic  service.  Why  should  not  Bridget  and 
Dinah  exercise  their' own  right  in  dress  as  well  as  I?" 

These  questions  have  been  put  to  me  many  times  by  women  who 
think  and  act  for  themselves  without  regard  to  arbitrary  conven- 
tionalities. 

I  am  so  well  assured  that  most  conventionalities  have  a  substra- 
tum of  common  sense  that  I  am  slow  to  condemn  any  one  of  them. 

I  dispute,  at  the  outset,  the  insinuation  that  black  dress,  white 
cap  and  apron  are  a  badge  of  servitude.  I  know  no  more  inde- 
pendent class  of  women  than  trained  nurses,  no  more  arbitrary 


254  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

men  than  railway  officials.  I  should  certainly  never  consider  the 
distinctive  garb  of  the  Sisters  of  Charity — Protestant  or  Roman 
Catholic — as  degrading.  The  idea  of  humiliation  attached  to  the 
uniform  of  housemaid  and  child's  nurse  in  the  mind  of  employees 
or  employer  is  founded  upon  the  conviction  that  domestic  service 
demeans  her  who  performs  it.  This  is  precisely  the  prejudice 
which  sensible,  philanthropic  women  are  trying  to  beat  down — 
a  prejudice  that  has  more  to  do  with  the  complications  of  the 
servant  question  than  all  other  influences  combined.  If  I  hesi- 
tate to  ask  a  maid  entering  my  service  to  wear  the  uniform  of  her 
calling,  I  intimate  too  broadly  to  be  misunderstood  that  there  is 
something  in  that  service  which  would  demean  her  were  it  gener- 
ally known  that  she  is  in  it. 

I  had  one  maid,  years  ago,  who  would  not  run  around  the 
corner  to  grocery  or  haberdasher's  without  taking  time  to  put  on 
her  Sunday  coat  and  hat,  and  to  lay  off  her  apron.  When  I  spoke 
to  her  of  the  absurdity  and  inconvenience  of  this,  she  confessed, 
blushingly,  that  the  porter  at  the  grocery  was  "keeping  company 
with  her,"  and  "it"  was  nat'ral  a  gurrel  should  want  to  look  her 
best  when  she  was  like  to  see  him." 

"Ah,"  I  said,  "doesn't  he  know  what  your  position  is  in  my 
house?  Has  he  never  seen  you  in  cap  and  apron?" 

"Shure,  mem !    Every  day  when  he  fetches  the  groceries." 

"Then,  if  he  is  a  sensible  fellow,  he  will  respect  you  all  the 
more  for  not  pretending  to  be  what  you  are  not.  Since  he  knows 
what  your  business  is,  show  him  that  you  are  not  ashamed  of  it. 
You  are  as  respectable  in  your  place  as  he  is  in  his — as  I  am  in 
mine — always  providing  that  you  respect  your  service  and  your- 
self." 

Call  the  distinctive  dress  of  your  maid  a  "uniform,"  not  a 
livery.  Point  out  to  her  the  examples  of  trained  nurses,  of  rail- 
way conductors,  of  the  very  porters  who  "keep  company"  with 
her ;  the  policemen  she  admires  afar  off ;  the  soldiers,  whose  brass 
buttons  dazzle  her  imagination.  Remind  her  that  saleswomen  in 
fashionable  shops  wear  the  black  gown,  white  apron,  deep  linen 
collar  and  cuffs  and  pride  themselves  upon  looking  their  best  in 
them.  Especially  make  her  comprehend  (if  you  can,  for  the  ways 


FAMILIAR    TALK 


355 


of  the  untrained  mind  are  past  finding  out),  that  she  has  an  hon- 
orable calling  and  need  not  be  ashamed  to  advertise  it. 

Congratulate  yourself,  above  all,  that  a  sensible  fashion  holds 
back  Bridget  and  Dinah  from  the  "exercise  of  their  own  taste  in 
dress."  The  modification  of  that  taste  wrought  by  the  neat  and 
modest  costume  prescribed  by  a  majority  of  modern  housewives 
may  be  in  itself  a  good  thing,  sparing  the  eyes  of  spectators  of  her 
toilettes  when  she  becomes  "Mrs."  and  independent,  and  the  purse 
of  the  porter,  or  truckman,  or  mechanic,  who  will  have  to  pay 
for  them. 

I  have  laid  stress  upon  the  advantages  of  long  terms  of  serv- 
ice, to  maid  and  to  mistress.  Like  all  other  good  things  it  has  its 
perils  and  its  abuses  to  be  avoided. 

Two-thirds  of  the  scandals  that  poison  the  social  atmosphere 
steal  out,  like  pestilential  fogs,  through  servants'  gossip.  We 
discuss  "the  girl"  in  our  bedchambers,  and  if  so  much  stirred  up 
by  her  works  and  ways  as  to  forget  what  is  due  to  our  ladyhood, 
compare  notes  in  the  parlor  as  to  these  same  works  and  ways. 
Being  well-bred  women,  the  traditions  of  our  caste  prevent  us 
from  making  domestic  grievances  the  staple  of  drawing-room 
conversation  and  the  marrow  of  table-talk.  The  electroplated 
vulgarian  never  calls  attention  more  emphatically  to  the  absence 
of  the  "Sterling"  stamp  upon  her  breeding,  than  when  she  chat- 
ters habitually  of  the  virtues  and  the  faults  of  her  household 
staff. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  most  sophisticated  of  us  would  be 
amazed  and  confounded  if  she  knew  what  a  conspicuous  part 
She  plays  in  talk  below  stairs  and  on  afternoons  and  evenings 
"out." 

Thackeray,  prince  of  satirists,  puts  it  cleverly : 

"Some  people  ought  to  have 'mutes  for  servants  in  Vanity 
Fair — mutes  who  could  not  write.  If  you  are  guilty — tremble! 
That  fellow  behind  your  chair  may  be  a  Janissary  with  a  bow- 
string in  his  plush  breeches  pocket.  If  you  are  not  guilty,  have  a 
care  of  appearances,  which  are  as  ruinous  as  guilt." 

We  should  be  neither  shocked  nor  confounded  that  these  things 
are  so.  If  we  are  mildly  surprised,  it  argues  ignorance  of  human 


256  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

nature,  and  of  the  general  likeness  of  one  human  creature  to  an- 
other, that  proves  the  whole  world  kin.  When  mistresses  in 
Parisian  toilettes,  clinking  gold  spoons  against  Dresden  as  they 
sip  Bohea  in  boudoir  or  drawing-room,  raise  their  eyebrows  or 
laugh  musically  over  the  latest  bit  of  social  carrion  in  "our  set"— 
Jeames  or  Abigail,  who  has  caught  a  whiff  at  a  door  ajar,  or 
through  a  keyhole,  is  the  lesser  sinner  in  serving  up  the  story  in 
the  kitchen  cabinet.  The  domestics  are  in,  yet  not  of,  the  em- 
ployer's world,  living  for  six  and  a  half  days  of  the  week  among 
people  with  whom  they  have  no  affinity  by  nature  or  education! 
Where  we  would  talk  of  "things,"  the  lower  classes  discuss  what 
they  name  "folks."  Their  range  of  thought  is  pitifully  narrow; 
the  happenings  in  their  social  life  are  few  and  tame.  What  won- 
der if  they  retail  what  we  say  and  do  and  are,  as  sayings,  doings 
and  characters  appear  to  them  ? 

What  would  be  extraordinary,  if  it  were  not  so  common,  is 
the  opportunity  gratuitously  afforded  in — we  will  say,  guardedly 
— one  family  out  of  three  for  the  collection  of  material  for  these 
sensations  of  the  nether  story.  I  speak  by  the  card  in  asserting 
that  the  influence  gained  by  the  confidential  maid  over  her  well- 
born, well-mannered,  well-educated  mistress  is  greater  than  that 
possessed  by  any  friend  in  the  (alleged)  superior's  proper  circle 
of  equals. 

Without  taxing  memory  I  can  tell  off  on  my  fingers  ten  gentle- 
women, in  every  other  sense  of  the  word,  whose  intimate  confi- 
dantes are  hirelings  who  were  strangers  until  they  entered  the 
employ  of  their  respective  mistresses  (  ?).  We  need  not  cross  the 
ocean  to  listen  with  incredulous  horror  to  insinuations  and  open 
assertions  as  to  the  hold  a  gigantic  Scotch  gilly  acquired  over  a 
royal  widow.  Our  next-door  neighbors  on  both  sides  and  our 
acquaintances  across  the  way  are  in  like  bondage. 

I  have  in  mind  one  of  the  best  and  most  refined  women  I  ever 
knew  whose  infatuation  for  her  incomparable  Jane  was  the 
laughing-stock  of  some,  the  surprise  and  grief  of  others.  Jane 
disputed  the  dear  soul's  will,  oft  and  again ;  gave  her  more  advice 
than  she  took,  and,  behind  her  back,  ridiculed  her  unsparingly — 
as  many  of  the  mistress's  friends  were  aware.  The  dupe  would 


FAMILIAR   TALK  257 

resign  the  affection  and  society  of  one  and  all  of  her  compeers 
sooner  than  part  with  Jane. 

Another  "just  could  not  live  without  my  Mary."  The  remote 
suggestion  throws  her  into  a  paroxysm  of  distress.  Her  own 
husband  knows  it  to  be  necessary  to  warn  her  not  to  tell  this  and 
that  business  or  family  secret  to  Mary,  knowing,  the  while,  in  his 
sad  soul,  the  chances  to  be  against  her  keeping  her  promise  not 
to  share  it  with  her  factotum. 

Ellen  is  the  bosom  friend  of  a  third ;  Bridget  is  the  right  hand, 
the  counsellor  and  colleague  of  a  fourth.  A  fifth  confides  to  her 
second-rate  associates  that  her  faithful  Fanny  knows  as  much  of 
family  histories  (and  there  are  histories  in  the  clan)  as  she  does, 
and  that  she — the  miscalled  mistress — takes  no  step  of  importance 
without  consulting  her. 

Perhaps  one  man  in  five  hundred  is  under  the  thumb  of  his 
employee,  and  then  because  the  underling  has  come  into  posses- 
sion of  some  dangerous  secret,  or  has  a  "business  hold"  upon 
him. 

Have  wives  more  need  of  sympathy  ?  or  are  they  less  nice  in  the 
choice  of  intimates,  and  more  reckless  in  confidences? 


LUNCHEON   CAKES 

Huckleberry  shortcake 

SIFT  two  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder  and  one  of 
salt  into  a  quart  and  a  pint  of  flour.  Chop  into  this  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cottolene  or  other  fat  and  two  of  butter.  Beat  two 
eggs  light  and  add  them  to  a  pint  of  sweet  milk.  Make  a  hole 
in  the  flour,  pour  in  the  milk  and  egg,  and  mix  with  a  wooden 
spoon.  Turn  out  upon  a  pastry  board  and  roll  into  two  sheets, 
about  a  third  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  Line  a  greased  biscuit-pan 
with  one  sheet,  cover  it  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick  with 
huckleberries,  strew  these  with  granulated  sugar,  fit  the  upper 
sheet  of  dough  on  the  pan  and  bake  in  a  steady  oven  until  done. 
Cut  into  squares  and  send  to  table.  Split,  and  eat  with  butter 
and  sugar. 

Currant  shortcake 

Mash  a  quart  of  ripe  red  currants  and  stir  into  them  two  cups 
of  granulated  sugar.  Cover  and  set  aside  for  half  an  hour. 

Make  a  dough  as  for  quick  biscuit,  only  using  a  tablespoonful 
more  butter  than  usual.  Roll  into  a  large  round  biscuit  about 
ten  inches  in  diameter.  Bake,  and,  as  soon  as  done,  split  open, 
spread  with  butter  and  then  with  half  the  sweetened  currants. 
Replace  the  top  of  the  biscuit  and  pour  the  remainder  of  the  cur- 
rants and  juice  over  and  around  the  shortcake.  Serve  at  once. 

Hot  strawberry  shortcake 

Mash  a  quart  of  berries,  sweeten  them  with  plenty  of  granu- 
lated sugar,  and  let  them  stand  for  an  hour  and  a  half. 

Into  a  pint  of  flour  sift  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  and 

258 


LUNCHEON    CAKES  259 

half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Chop  into  this  one  tablespoonful  of 
butter  until  it  is  thoroughly  incorporated.  Add  enough  milk  to 
make  a  dough  that  can  be  easily  handled.  Turn  this  upon  a 
floured  pastry-board,  roll  lightly  into  a  huge  biscuit  as  large  as 
a  pie-plate.  Put  into  a  greased  pan  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 
When  done,  split  open  quickly,  spread  with  butter,  then  thickly 
with  the  mashed  berries,  put  the  two  halves  together  again,  pour 
the  remaining  mashed  berries  over  the  entire  cake,  and  serve 
very  hot. 

Cold  strawberry  shortcake 

Cream  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  with  a  cup  of  powdered 
sugar.  Beat  three  eggs  light,  add  to  them  a  quarter  of  a  cup 
of  cream,  and  stir  into  the  creamed  butter  and  sugar.  Beat  long 
and  hard  before  adding  a  cupful  of  flour  sifted  twice  with  a 
teaspoonful  of  baking-powder.  Grease  three  jelly-cake  tins,  half- 
fill  with  the  batter  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  When  cold,  remove 
the  cakes  from  the  tins,  spread  each  layer  with  halved  straw- 
berries, sprinkle  with  sugar  and  pile  on  a  dish.  Serve  with  an 
abundance  of  cream. 

Scotch  shortcake 

(Contributed) 

Cream  a  half-pound  of  fresti  butter  with  a  quarter-pound  of 
sugar,  and  work  into  it  with  the  hands  a  pound  of  flour.  Knead 
long,  then  turn  upon  a  pastry-board  and  press  into  a  flat  sheet 
half  an  inch  thick.  Cut  into  squares  and  bake  until  light-brown 
and  crisp. 

Orange  shortcake 

(Contributed) 

Sift  into  one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  flour  one-half  cupful  of 
corn-starch,  one  level  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder  and  one-half 
teaspoonful  of  salt.  Rub  into  this  with  the  tips  of  the  fingers 
one-third  of  a  cup  of  butter  and  moisten  with  milk  enough  to 
make  a  soft  dough.  Divide  the  dough  in  halves  and  spread,  over 


26o  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

the  bottom  of  two  tins.  When  done  butter  the  cakes,  sift  over 
each  powdered  sugar,* and  put  between  them  thin  slices  of  peeled 
oranges. 

German  coffee  cake  (No.  1) 

Two  cupfuls  of  scalded  milk,  one  cupful  of  water,  one  yeast- 
cake  (one-cent  size),  one  cupful  of  sugar,  one-half  cupful  of  but- 
ter, two  eggs,  a  little  salt. 

Cream  sugar  and  butter,  add  milk  and  yeast  dissolved  in  the 
water,  the  salt  and  eggs,  well-beaten.  Thicken  with  enough  flour 
to  make  a  batter  that  can  be  stirred  with  a  spoon.  Beat  well 
and  set  to  rise  for  about  three  hours.  When  light,  add  enough 
flour  to  enable  you  to  roll  it  out.  Roll  about  an  inch  thick,  and 
place  in  long,  shallow  pans.  Set  to  rise.  When  light,  drop  over 
the  top  bits  of  butter  about  the  size  of  a  hickory-nut,  and  sprinkle 
generously  with  sugar  and  a  little  cinnamon.  Bake  about  thirty 
minutes. 

German  coffee  cake  (No.  2) 

To  two  cupfuls  of  soft  bread  sponge  that  has  been  allowed 
to  rise,  add  one-half  cupful  of  warm  milk,  a  little  salt,  one-quarter 
cupful  of  melted  shortening,  two  eggs,  beaten  with  three-quarters 
of  a  cup  of  sugar.  Add  one-half  grated  nutmeg,  some  raisins 
or  currants,  and  as  much  warmed  flour  as  can  be  worked  in  with 
a  spoon.  Put  it  into  a  greased  "tin  and  let  it  rise.  When  very 
light,  moisten  the  top  with  milk,  sprinkle  with  sugar  and  cinna- 
mon, and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  forty  minutes.  Cover  with  brown 
paper  until  almost  done. 

Potato  cake 

Two  cupfuls  of  white  sugar,  one  cupful  of  butter,  four  eggs, 
one-half  cupful  of  milk,  one  cupful  of  potatoes,  one  teaspoonful, 
each,  of  cinnamon  and  cloves,  one-half  cup  of  chocolate,  two  cups 
of  flour,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  one  cup  of  almonds. 
Blanch  and  chop  almonds ;  grate  cold  boiled  potatoes ;  beat  eggs 
separately,  adding  whites  last.  Bake  in  a  shallow  pan  in  a  mod- 
erate oven,  and  cover  with  caramel  frosting. 


LUNCHEON    CAKES  261 

Huckleberry  cake 

Sift  a  scant  quart  of  flour  twice  with  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking-powder.  Cream  together  one  cupful  of  butter  and  two  of 
sugar,  add  to  them  five  beaten  eggs,  a  cup  and  a  half  of  milk,  a 
half-teaspoonful,  each,  of  powdered  cinnamon  and  nutmeg  and 
the  prepared  flour.  Last  of  all,  stir  in  a  cupful  of  huckleberries 
thoroughly  dredged  with  flour.  Bake  in  greased  muffin  tins  in 
a  steady  oven. 

This  excellent  cake  is  better  when  twenty-four  hours  old  than 
when  freshly  baked. 

Apple  cake 

Cream  together  a  half-cupful  of  butter  and  two  cupfuls  of  sugar, 
and  beat  into  them  a  half-cupful  of  milk  and  five  whipped  eggs. 
Last  of  all,  add  three  cupfuls  of  flour  into  which  have  been  sifted 
two  small  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder.  Bake  in  layers.  When 
cold,  make  the  filling  by  heating  in  a  double  boiler  a  cupful  of 
apple  sauce,  adding  sugar  to  taste,  and  then  beating  in  gradually 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Cook,  stirring, 
for  a  minute,  and  set  aside  until  cold  before  spreading  on  the  .cake. 

Springleys  (No;  1) 
(A  German  recipe.) 

Beat  one  pound  of  granulated  sugar  for  ten  minutes  with  four 
eggs,  leave  for  an  hour,  then  add  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  ex- 
tract, and  one  teaspoonful  of  hartshorn.  Work  in  enough  flour 
(about  two  pounds)  to  make  it  stiff  enough  to  roll  out.  Powder 
the  forms  with  flour  before  using,  so  as  to  prevent  sticking.  Cut 
apart  and  lay  on  a  smooth  slab  until  morning.  Sprinkle  anise 
seed  in  the  bottom  of  the  tins  before  putting  cakes  in.  Bake  in  a 
quick  oven  and  watch  very  closely  in  order  to  keep  them  from 
burning. 


262  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Springerlein  (No.  2) 
(An  old  German  recipe.) 

One  cup  of  powdered  sugar,  rolled  fine,  sifted  and  warmed. 
Four  large  eggs.  Grated  rind  of  one  lemon.  One  pound  of 
flour  thoroughly  dried  and  sifted  three  times.  One-half  teaspoon- 
ful  of  baking-powder  sifted  thoroughly  with  the  flour. 

With  a  silver  or  wooden  spoon  stir  the  sugar  and  eggs  steadily 
for  one  hour,  stirring  one  way,  add  rind  of  lemon,  flour  and  bak- 
ing-powder, mix  quickly  into  a  loaf-shape  without  much  han- 
dling. Set  aside  in  a  cool  place  for  two  hours.  Flour  your  bak- 
ing-board lightly — take  a  small  piece  of  dough,  which  by  this 
time  must  be  stiff  enough  to  cut  with  a  knife,  roll  out  to  about 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Put  about  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour  in  a  small  cheese-cloth  bag  and  with  this  lightly  dust  the 
mold.  Press  the  dough  on  the  mold,  lightly  but  firmly  with  the 
finger  tips,  then  turn  the  mold  over  and  carefully  remove.  With  a 
cutter  cut  off  surplus  dough,  put  with  remainder  and  proceed  as 
before.  Use  as  little  flour  as  possible  in  rolling  out.  Put  a  cloth 
on  the  table,  sprinkle  it  with  anise-seed,  lay  the  cakes  on  this  and 
stand  them  for  twelve  hours  in  a  cool  room.  Bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  in  lightly-buttered  pans.  This  recipe  will  make  from  sixty- 
five  to  seventy-five  cakes. 

Currant  bun 

Warm  a  cupful  of  cream  in  a  double-boiler,  take  it  from  the 
fire  and  stir  into  it  a  cupful  of  melted  butter,  which  has  not  been 
allowed  to  cook  in  melting.  Beat  three  eggs  very  light,  add  them 
to  the  cream  and  butter,  then  stir  in  a  cupful  of  sugar.  Dissolve 
a  half -cake  of  yeast  in  a  couple  of  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  sift 
a  good  quart  of  flour,  make  a  hollow  in  it,  stir  into  it  the  yeast 
and  then,  after  adding  to  the  other  mixture,  a  teaspoonful,  each, 
of  powdered  mace  and  cinnamon,  put  in  the  flour  and  the  yeast. 
Beat  all  well  for  a  few  minutes,  add  a  cupful  of  currants  that 
have  been  washed,  dried  and  dredged  with  flour,  pour  into  a 
shallow  baking-pan,  let  it  rise  for  several  hours,  until  it  has 


LUNCHEON    CAKES  263 

doubled  in  size;  bake  one  hour  in  a  rather  quick  oven;  sprinkle 
with  fine  sugar  when  done. 

Cinnamon  buns 

Save  a  cupful  of  bread  dough  from  the  second  rising.  Cream  a 
half-cupful  of  butter  with  a  half-cupful  of  sugar,  stir  in  a  well- 
beaten  egg  and  work  these  into  the  dough.  Now  add  a  half-tea- 
spoonful  of  cinnamon,  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  dissolved  in  a  little 
hot  water  and  a  half-cupful  of  cleaned  currants,  dredged  with 
flour.  Knead  for  several  minutes,  form  into  buns,  set  to  rise  for  a 
half-hour,  then  bake. 

Parkin 

Mix  together  three  pounds  of  oatmeal,  a  pound  and  a  half  of 
molasses,  a  half-pound  of  butter  creamed  with  a  half-pound  of 
sugar,  a  dash  of  ginger  and  as  much  baking-soda  as  will  lie  upon 
a  shilling,  dissolved  in  a  little  boiling  water.  Mix  thoroughly 
and  bake  in  flat  pans. 

Grandmother's  apple  cake 

(From  an  old  family  recipe.) 

Three  cups  of  dried  apples  stewed  slowly  in  two  cups  of  mo- 
lasses, then  set  aside  to  cool.  Three  cups  of  flour ;  two-thirds  of 
a  cup  of  butter ;  two  cups  of  brown  sugar  ;  one-half  cup  of  raisins  ; 
currants  and  grated  lemon  peel,  mixed;  eight  teaspoonfuls  of 
water,  one  level  teaspoonful  of  soda  dissolved  in  the  water,  three 
eggs,  spices  to  taste. 

This  cake  will  keep  for  weeks.  It  is  better  when  a  few  days 
old  than  when  first  made. 

The  apples  should  be  carefully  washed,  first  in  warm,  then  in 
cold  water,  lying  in  this  last  for  half  an  hour.  Drain  and  toss  in 
a  towel  before  adding  the  molasses. 

In  the  "old  times"  the  quantity  of  cake  made  by  this  recipe 
lasted  the  children  a  month. 


264  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Bun  loaf 

(An  English  recipe.) 

Cream  together  half  a  cupful  of  mixed  butter  and  lard  with  a 
half-cupful  of  brown  sugar;  beat  into  this  one  egg  and  work 
both  into  a  cupful  of  bread  dough  that  has  had  its  second  rising. 
Work  in,  also,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon  and, quarter  of  a 
grated  nutmeg,  half  a  cupful  of  mixed  raisins  and  currants,  the 
raisins  seeded  and  chopped,  the  currants  washed  and  dried,  and 
both  dredged  with  flour,  a  tablespoonful  of  citron  shredded  and 
also  dredged,  and  knead  all  well  for  three  or  four  minutes.  Make 
into  a  loaf,  let  it  rise  half  an  hour  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Fruit  cake  (No.  1) 

One  cupful  of  butter;  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  powdered 
sugar ;  two  cupfuls  of  flour ;  six  eggs ;  half  a  pound,  each,  of 
raisins  and  currants;  quarter-pound  of  citron;  teaspoonful  of 
cinnamon  and  nutmeg ;  half  teaspoonful  of  ground  cloves ;  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  brandy. 

Cream  butter  and  sugar,  beat  in  the  whipped  yolks  of  the  eggs, 
stir  in  the  flour,  the  spice,  the  raisins,  seeded  and  chopped;  the 
currants,  washed;  the  citron,  shredded,  and  all  the  fruit,  well 
dredged  with  flour,  then  the  whites,  beaten  stiff,  and  the  brandy. 
Bake  about  two  hours  in  a  steady  oven. 

Fruit  cake  (No.  2) 

Seed  and  chop  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  raisins ;  stem  and  wash 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  currants ;  and  mince  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  citron.  Mix  all  this  fruit  together  and  thoroughly  dredge 
with  flour. 

Rub  to  a  cream  a  generous  cupful  of  powdered  sugar  and  a  half- 
cupful  of  butter,  and  beat  into  this  five  whipped  eggs.  Now  add 
half  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  ground  cinnamon,  nutmeg  and  mace, 
and  stir  in  a  cupful  of  flour.  Last  of  all,  add  the  fruit,  turn  into  a 
greased  cake  tin  and  bake  steadily,  not  fast,  until  done.  This 
will  probably  take  from  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  half. 


LUNCHEON    CAKES  265 

Fruit  cake  (No.  3) 

Cream  one  cupful  of  butter  with  two  cupfuls  of  powdered  su- 
gar, beat  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  and  add  to  the  butter  and  sugar. 
Put  in  two  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour,  half  a  pound,  each,  of 
seeded  and  chopped  raisins,  and  of  washed  and  dried  currants,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  shredded  citron,  all  well  dredged  with  flour, 
and  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  cinnamon  and  grated  nutmeg.  Last  of 
all,  put  in  the  whites  of  the  eggs  beaten  stiff.  Bake  in  a  steady 
oven. 

Christmas  fruit  cake 

This  cake  may  be  made  as  long  before  Christmas  as  you  desire, 
as  it  will  keep  for  months.  Cream  together  a  half-pound,  each, 
of  butter  and  sugar,  and  stir  in  six  beaten  eggs.  Now  beat  in  one 
teaspoonful,  each,  of  powdered  nutmeg,  cloves  and  cinnamon, 
one  cupful  of  flour,  a  half  pound,  each,  of  cleaned  currants, 
seeded  and  chopped  raisins,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  shredded 
citron — all  thoroughly  dredged  with  flour.  Last  of  all,  add  a 
tablespoonful  of  rose  water.  Turn  into  a  deep  tin,  well  greased, 
and  bake  in  a  steady  oven  until  done. 

Pound  cake 

One  pound,  each,  of  butter,  of  sugar,  of  eggs,  of  flour ;  one 
tablespoonful  of  brandy,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  mace. 

Cream  butter  and  sugar,  beat  whites  and  yolks  separately  and 
very  light.  Add  the  brandy  and  mace  to  the  creamed  butter  and 
sugar,  stir  in  the  yolks,  and,  after  beating  hard  for  a  couple  of 
minutes,  add  the  flour  and  whites  alternately,  whipping  them  in 
lightly,  but  not  stirring  after  they  have  gone  in.  A  pound  cake 
batter  should  be  as  stiff  as  it  can  be  stirred.  Bake  in  brick  tins, 
or  in  small  pans  in  a  steady  oven,  covering  with  paper  to  prevent 
too  quick  browning. 

Grafton  cake 

Cream  together  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  with  two  cupfuls 
of  sugar  and  beat  into  these  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  whipped 


266  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

light.  Add  a  cupful  of  cold  water  and  two  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour. 
Stir  in,  then,  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  beaten  stiff,  and  another 
cupful  of  flour  into  which  has  been  sifted  a  heaping  teaspoonful 
of  baking-powder.  Flavor  with  a  half-teaspoonful  of  nutmeg 
and  cinnamon,  mixed. 

Gold  cake 

Cream  together  a  cupful  of  butter  and  two  cupfuls  of  sugar. 
When  well  blended,  stir  in  the  beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs  and  a 
scant  cupful  of  milk.  Now  add,  gradually,  enough  prepared  flour 
to  make  a  good  batter,  and,  at  the  last,  the  juice  and  grated  rind  of 
one  orange.  Turn  into  a  greased  tin  and  bake  until  a  straw  conies 
out  clean  from  the  thickest  part  of  the  loaf.  Frost  with  an  icing 
made  by  beating  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar  into  the  unbeaten 
white  of  one  egg.  When  light  and  smooth,  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
orange  juice  and  a  tablespoonful  of  grated  orange  peel. 

Silver  cake 

Cream  together  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  a  half-cupful  of  butter, 
and  beat  into  them  the  whites  of  four  eggs,  then  a  half-cupful  of 
cold  water.  Sift  a  pint  of  flour  with  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of 
baking-powder  and  add  this  gradually,  beating  to  a  light  batter. 
Stir  in,  at  the  last,  a  teaspoonful  of  rose-water  and  bake  in  a  loaf. 
Cover  with  icing  flavored  with  rose-water. 

Chocolate  loaf  cake  (No.  1) 

Cream  together  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  a  half-cupful  of  butter ; 
add  a  cupful  of  milk,  four  beaten  eggs,  and  three  ounces  of  grated 
chocolate  dissolved  in  a  little  milk.  Beat  all  hard,  then  stir  in 
quickly  two  cupfuls  of  sifted  prepared  flour;  flavor  with  vanilla 
and  turn  all  into  a  greased  cake  tin.  Bake  in  a  steady  oven  until 
a  straw  comes  out  clean  from  the  thickest  part  of  the  loaf. 

Chocolate  loaf  cake  (No.  2) 

Dissolve  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  sweet  grated  chocolate  in  a 
gill  of  hot  milk.  Rub  to  a  cream  a  half-cupful  of  butter  and  a 


DECORATED   WITH    PINE   CONES,    HOLLY   AND   MISTLETOE 


AN    EASTER    WEDDING    BREAKFAST.    WITH    LILIES 


JAPANESE    DECORATIONS    FOR    A    CHILDREN'S    LUNCHEON 


LUNCHEON    CAKES  267 

large  cupful  of  sugar,  and  into  this  beat  five  whipped  eggs,  the 
dissolved  chocolate,  a  pint  of  prepared  flour  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla.  Turn  into  a  loaf-tin  and  bake.  Cover  with  chocolate 
icing. 

Cocoanut  and  citron  layer  cake 

Rub  together  three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of  butter  and  a  cupful 
and  a  half  of  powdered  sugar.  When  this  mixture  is  like  a  soft 
cream,  add  six  eggs,  beaten  light,  a  cupful  of  water,  and  three 
cupfuls  of  flour  sifted  twice  with  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  baking- 
powder.  If  the  batter  should  be  too  thin,  add  cautiously  a  little 
more  flour.  Pour  into  three  greased  layer-cake  tins,  and  bake  to 
a  delicate  brown. 

Whip  a  pint  of  cream  stiff  with  a  generous  half-cupful  of  pow- 
dered sugar.  Have  ready  a  fresh  cocoanut,  grated.  Beat  this 
into  the  whipped  cream.  When  the  cake  is  cold,  spread  each  layer 
of  it  with  this  mixture,  and  sprinkle  with  minced  citron.  On  the 
top  layer  heap  the  cocoanut  cream,  and  dot  it  here  and  there  with 
bits  of  the  green  citron.  This  cake  must  be  eaten  within  a  few 
hours  after  it  is  made. 


Old-fashioned  sponge  cake 

Weigh  ten  eggs ;  allow  their  weight  in  sugar,  and  half  their 
weight  in  flour.  Beat  the  yolks  light,  whip  the  sugar  into  them, 
stir  in  half  the  grated  peel  and  all  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  then  the 
flour,  and  lastly  the  whites  folded  in.  Bake  in  a  steady  oven. 

A  good  cup  sponge  cake 

Beat  the  yolks  and  whites  of  five  eggs  separate.  Into  the  yolks 
stir  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  a  small  teacupful  of  flour  that  has  been 
well  sifted  with  a  small  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder.  Beat  long 
and  hard — if  you  do  it  for  twenty  minutes  it  will  not  be  too  long. 
Add  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  lemon  and  orange  juice  and  fold  in 
lightly  the  stiff  whites.  Bake  at  once  in  a  loaf  tin  in  a  steady 
oven.  It  should  be  done  in  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 


268  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Boiled  sponge  cake  (No,  1) 

Eight  eggs.  The  weight  of  the  eggs  in  sugar,  and  half  their 
weight  in  flour.  Separate  the  yolks  and  whites  of  the  eggs 
carefully.  Beat  the  yolks  very  light,  add  the  sugar  to  them,  the 
juice  and  grated  rind  of  one  lemon,  and  half  the  flour.  Whip 
the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  add  half  of  these  to  the  batter,  stir  in 
the  rest  of  the  flour  and  the  remaining  whites.  Pour  into  a 
greased  cake-mold,  with  a  tight-fitting  top,  and  put  this,  on  the 
stove  in  a  pot  of  boiling  water.  Do  not  let  the  water  come  up 
over  the  top  of  the  tin.  Boil  steadily  for  at  least  an  hour  before 
looking  at  the  cake.  Test  then  with  a  straw,  and  if  not  done,  boil 
a  while  longer.  The  straw  should  come  out  clean  when  the  cake 
is  done. 

Boiled  sponge  cake  (No.  2) 

Beat  six  eggs  light,  yolks  and  whites  separately.  Bring  to  a 
boil  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  and  a  half-cupful  of  water. 
Boil  for  five  minutes  and  pour  gradually,  beating  steadily,  upon 
the  yolks  of  the  eggs.  Now  whip  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  half- 
pound  of  prepared  flour,  and  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  added  quickly 
and  lightly.  Bake  in  brick-shaped  tins  in  a  steady  oven,  covering 
the  cake  with  paper  for  the  first  twenty  minutes  of  the  baking. 
The  loaf  should  be  done  in  half  an  hour. 

Raisin  bread 

Scald  a  pint  of  milk  and  beat  into  it  a  teaspoonful  of  melted 
butter  and  one  of  salt.  When  the  mixture  is  lukewarm  add  half 
a  yeast-cake,  dissolved  in  a  half-cupful  of  warm  water,  and  beat  in 
enough  flour  to  make  a  good  batter.  Set  in  a  warm  room  to  rise 
for  eight  hours.  Beat  hard,  add  a  cupful  of  flour  and  work  in  a 
cupful  of  halved  and  seeded  raisins,  plentifully  dredged  with  flour. 
Set  to  rise  until  light,  then  bake. 


LUNCHEON    CAKES  269 

Water  crackers  or  wafers 

(A  Southern  recipe.) 

Into  a  half-pound  of  flour  rub  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  a  little 
salt,  and  add  enough  cold  water  to  make  a  dough  that  can  be 
rolled  out.  Roll  very  thin,  cut  out,  and  roll  again.  Bake  in  a 
floured  tin  to  a  pale  brown. 

Pork  cake 

(A  Yorkshire  recipe.) 

One  pound  of  fat  salt  pork  free  from  lean  or  rind ;  chop  so  fine 
as  to  be  almost  like  lard,  pour  upon  it  one-half  pint  of  boiling 
water,  add  two  cupfuls  of  dark  brown  sugar,  one  of  New  Orleans 
molasses,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda  stirred  into  the  molasses,  one 
pound  of  raisins,  one  pound  of  dates,  chopped;  one- fourth  of  a 
pound  of  citron  shaved  fine.  Stir  in  enough  sifted  flour  to  make 
it  the  consistency  of  common  cake  batter;  season  with  one  tea- 
spoonful,  each,  of  cinnamon,  cloves,  allspice  and  nutmeg.  Bake 
in  a  moderate  oven. 

Kleiner 

(A  Danish  recipe.) 

The  yolks  of  six  eggs,  the  yolks  and  whites  of  two  eggs,  one- 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar.  Whip  these  together,  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cream,  one  ounce  of  melted  butter,  and  work  in  as 
much  flour  as  possible,  but  not  more  than  a  pound.  Knead  this 
with  flour  until  the  dough  stops  sticking  to  the  fingers.  Roll 
out  very  thin  with  a  little  more  flour,  and  cut  in  oblong  pieces 
about  three  inches  long,  and  not  quite  half  as  wide.  Cut  a  slit 
in  the  middle  of  each,  and  bend  one  end  through,  so  as  to  make 
a  twist  in  the  middle.  Boil  in  deep  cottolene  or  other  fat  until 
light  brown.  Put  up  in  tin  boxes.  They  will  keep  for  a  long 
time. 


270  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Poverty  cake 

Mix  together  half  a  cupful  of  molasses,  half  a  cupful  of  sugar, 
one  egg  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter.  When  these 
are  beaten  together  thoroughly  add  one  teaspoonful  of  soda  dis- 
solved in  half  a  cupful  of  cold  water,  cinnamon  or  ginger  to  taste, 
and  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  flour.  Bake  in  a  shallow  pan  in  a 
moderate  oven  for  about  thirty  minutes. 

Good,  in  spite  of  the  name ! 

Jelly  roll 

Take  four  eggs  and  their  weight  in  butter,  sugar  and  flour. 
Cream  the  butter  and  sugar,  add  the  beaten  yolks,  and  whip  for 
five  minutes.  Put  in  the  flour,  the  stiffened  whites,  and,  last  of 
all,  a  full  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder.  Pour  into  a  greased 
baking-tin,  and  make  the  layer  not  more  than  half  an  inch  thick. 
Bake  quickly  and  steadily,  turn  from  the  pan  while  hot,  spread 
with  jelly  at  once  and  roll.  Cover  with  paper  and  tie  into  shape 
until  cold. 

Angel  cake 

Sift  a  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar  six  times  with  a  half-cup- 
ful of  flour.  Whip  the  whites  of  six  eggs  until  they  stand  alone, 
then  gradually  stir  into  them  a  half-cupful  of  granulated  sugar 
and  the  sifted  flour.  Beat  very  hard,  turn  into  a  clean,  ungreased 
pan  with  a  funnel  in  the  middle.  Bake  in  a  steady  oven  until  a 
straw  comes  out  clean  from  the  thickest  part.  Turn  the  pan  up- 
side down  upon  a  clean  towel,  and  as  the  cake  cools,  it  will  slip  out 
of  the  tin.  When  cold,  ice  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  loaf. 

Devil's  food 

Half  a  cupful  of  chocolate,  grated ;  half  a  cupful  of  sweet  milk ; 
half  a  cupful  of  brown  sugar.  Boil  these  together  until  as  thick  as 
cream,  and  let  cool. 

One  cupful  of  brown  sugar ;  half  a  cupful  of  butter ;  two  eggs ; 
two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  milk ;  vanilla  flavoring.  Mix  well,  beat 


LUNCHEON    CAKES  271 

in  the  boiled  mixture  and  two  cupfuls  of  flour  sifted  with  a  heap- 
ing teaspoonful  of  baking-powder.  Bake  in  layers,  put  together 
with  chocolate  filling  and  cover  with  a  white  icing. 

Sunshine  cake 

Sift  one  cupful  of  granulated  sugar  and  add  it  to  the  yolks  of 
five  eggs,  first  beating  these  until  they  are  thick.  Add  a  dash  of 
salt.  Sift  three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of  flour  twice  with  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  and  add  to  the  eggs  and  sugar.  Beat 
for  twenty  minutes,  and  fold  in  the  whites  of  seven  eggs  whipped 
stiff  with  a  teaspoonful  of  white  sugar  dissolved  in  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice  and  one  tablespoon ful  of  orange  juice. 
Butter  a  pan,  flour  it  lightly,  and  bake  the  cake  in  a  steady  oven 
for  forty  minutes. 

Orange  layer  cake 

Cream  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  with  two  cupfuls  of  sugar, 
add  the  beaten  yolks  of  five  eggs,  the  juice  and  half  the  grated 
rind  of  an  orange,  and  three  cupfuls  of  flour — or  enough  for  a  bat- 
ter— sifted  with  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder.  Last  of  all, 
fold  in  the  stiffened  whites  of  three  eggs.  Bake  in  layer  tins. 

Filling  for  orange  cake 

Beat  the  whites  of  two  eggs  very  stiff  with  one  cupful  of  pow- 
dered sugar ;  add  the  juice  and  half  the  grated  peel  of  an  orange. 
Whip  to  a  soft  cream,  and  spread  between  the  layers  when  they 
are  cold. 

Almond  cake 

Blanch  enough  almonds  to  make  a  cupful  of  them  when 
skinned,  and  when  cold  pound  to  a  paste.  Or,  what  is  more 
convenient,  buy  the  almond  paste  ready  prepared.  Cream  a  quar- 
ter-pound of  butter  with  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  and  beat 
into  this  the  well-whipped  yolks  of  seven  eggs.  Now  beat  in 
gradually  the  almond  paste,  a  teaspoonful  of  rose-water,  a  quart 
of  sifted  flour,  and,  lastly,  the  stiffened  whites  of  the  eggs.  Bake 


272  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

in  a  loaf  in  a  steady  oven  until  a  straw  comes  out  clean  from  the 
thickest  part.  When  cold,  ice,  flavoring  the  icing  with  rose-water 
and  a  very  little  essence  of  bitter  almonds. 

Chrysanthemum  cake 

Half  a  pint  of  butter  and  one  pint  of  sugar  rubbed  to  a  cream ; 
the  beaten  whites  of  eight  eggs,  and  one  and  a  half  pints  of  flour 
in  which  have  been  sifted  one  and  a  half  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder,  one-half  pint  of  milk  and  the  grated  rind  of  an  orange. 
Color  the  batter  a  delicate  pink  with  cochineal,  and  bake  in  jelly- 
cake  tins  in  a  moderate  oven.  Use  red  sugar  for  icing. 

Daisy  cake 

Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  very  light  with  a  cupful  of  sugar. 
Cream-  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  and  stir  into  the  beaten  egg 
and  sugar,  then  add  a  gill  of  water  into  which  three  teaspoonfuls 
of  cream  have  been  stirred,  and  flavor  with  vanilla  extract.  Now 
fold  in  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  flour  that  have  been  sifted  with 
two  even  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder.  If  this  quantity  makes 
the  batter  too  stiff,  add  less,  as  some  flours  thicken  more  than  oth- 
ers. Bake  in  layers.  These  form  the  yellow  part  of  the  cake.  For 
the  white  part  cream  a  half  cupful  of  butter  with  one  and  a  half 
cupfuls  of  sugar,  add  a  cupful  of  lukewarm  water  and  two  and  a 
half  cupfuls  of  flour  that  have  been  sifted  with  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking-powder.  Beat  hard.  Add  the  juice  and  rind  of  one  lemon, 
and  fold  in  the  stiffened  whites  of  the  four  eggs.  Bake  in  layers. 
When  cold,  put  the  layers  together,  alternating  yellow  and  white, 
using  a  boiled  icing  filling.  Use  the  same  icing  for  the  top,  color- 
ing it  with  grated  orange  peel.  When  this  frosting  is  firm,  make 
a  plain  white  boiled  icing  and,  with  a  pastry  tube,  make  of  it  the 
form  of  a  daisy  on  top  of  the  other  icing. 

Lemon  cake 

One  cupful  of  butter;  two  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  sugar;  three 
eggs,  yolks  and  whites  beaten  separately;  four  cupfuls  of  flour; 


LUNCHEON    CAKES  273 

one  scant  teaspoonful  of  baking-soda  dissolved  in  a  little  milk; 
one  cupful  of  sweet  milk ;  the  juice  and  grated  rind  of  two  lemons. 
Beat  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  add  the  yolks,  well  beaten,  then 
the  milk  and  soda.  Then  add  two  cupfuls  of  the  flour,  the  juice 
and  grated  rind  of  the  lemons.  Mix  again,  and,  last  of  all,  add  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

White  mountain  cake 

Into  three  cupfuls  of  sugar  rub  one  cupful  of  butter  and  stir  in  a 
half-cupful  of  sweet  milk.  Add  four  cupfuls  of  prepared  flour  al- 
ternately with  the  stiffened  whites  of  ten  eggs.  If  you  find  that 
the  batter  is  going  to  be  too  stiff,  do  not  put  in  the  whole  quantity 
of  flour.  Bake  in  layer  tins. 

Filling  for  white  mountain  cake 

Boil  together  a  half-pound  of  sugar  and  a  half-cupful  of  water 
until  the  syrup  is  thick  enough  to  hang  in  a  thick  thread  from  a 
fork  dipped  into  it.  Stir  in,  a  teaspoonful  ar  a  time,  the  stiffened 
whites  of  two  eggs,  beating  them  hard  into  the  boiling  syrup. 
Remove  from  the  fire  and  beat  until  like  thick  cream,  and  cool ; 
then  add  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice.  Spread  on  each  layer  of 
the  cake,  put  the  layers  in  a  pile  on  top  of  one  another  and  pour 
the  remaining  icing  over  the  top  layer,  spreading  it  smoothly 
with  a  knife  dipped  in  boiling  water.  Sprinkle  the  whole  cake 
with  powdered  sugar  while  the  frosting  is  still  moist. 

Mocha  cake 

Cream  a  half  cupful  of  butter  with  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of 
sugar.  Add  three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of  milk,  and  the  stiffened 
whites  of  three  eggs  alternately  with  enough  prepared  flour  to 
make  a  good  batter.  Bake  in  layers. 


18 


274  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Filling  for  Mocha  cake 

Thicken  a  cupful  of  scalding  milk  with  a  tablespoonful  of  corn- 
starch  wet  with  a  little  cold  milk.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  smooth, 
then  pour  gradually  on  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  that  have  been 
beaten  light  with  a  half  cupful  of  sugar.  Stir  over  the  fire  for 
three  minutes,  and  set  aside  until  almost  cold,  when  beat  in  a  gill 
of  strong  black  coffee.  Spread  upon  the  cake  layers. 

Thanksgiving  citron  cake 

Cream  a  cupful  of  butter  with  three  cupfuls  of  powdered  sugar, 
add  a  cupful  of  milk,  and  four  cupfuls  of  prepared  flour  alter- 
nately with  the  stiffened  whites  of  ten  eggs.  If  too  stiff  lessen  the 
quantity  of  flour.  Flavor  with  rose-water,  and  stir  in  two  cups  of 
shredded  citron,  plentifully  dredged  with  flour.  Bake  in  an  oven, 
not  too  hot,  for  two  hours. 

Minnehaha  cake 

Cream  a  half-cupful  of  butter  with  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of 
sugar,  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs ;  a  half-pint  of  milk,  and 
the  stiffened  whites  of  the  eggs  alternately  with  three  even  cupfuls 
of  prepared  flour,  or  enough  to  make  a  good  batter.  Bake  in  layer 
tins. 

Filling  for  Minnehaha  cake 

Boil  a  cupful  of  sugar  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  water  until 
a  drop  "threads"  when  pressed  between  the  thumb  and  finger; 
then  beat  in  the  whipped  white  of  an  egg,  and  a  half-cupful,  each, 
of  seeded  and  chopped  raisins  and  walnut  meats.  Spread  this 
mixture  on  the  layers  of  cake. 

Marshmallow  layer  cake 

Cream  a  cupful  of  butter  with  two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  and  when 
smooth  and  light.,  add  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs,  a  cupful 
of  milk  and  two  cupfuls  of  prepared  flour,  alternately  with  the  stif- 


LUNCHEON    CAKES  275 

fened  whites  of  the  six  eggs.    If  the  batter  is  too  thin,  add  a  little 
more  flour.    Flavor  with  vanilla  and  bake  in  layer  tins. 

y 

Filling  for  marshmallow  cake 

.Dissolve  five  tablespoonfuls  of  gum  arabic  in  a  gill  of  cold 
water;  then  stir  in  a  half-cupful  of  powdered  sugar  and  boil  all 
together  until  a  little  dropped  in  cold  water  can  be  rolled  into  a 
soft  ball  between  the  finger  and  thumb.  Have  ready-beaten  the 
white  of  an  egg  and  strain  the  syrup  into  this,  beating  the  stif- 
fened egg  constantly  as  you  do  so.  Flavor  with  vanilla  and 
spread  upon  the  cake  layers  with  a  knife  dipped  in  boiling  water. 

Plain  loaf  cake 

One  cupful  of  butter  rubbed  to  a  cream  with  two  cupfuls  of 
sugar ;  three  cupfuls  of  flour  sifted  three  times  with  a  heaping  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking-powder;  four  eggs,  whites  and  yolks  beaten 
separately,  and  very  light;  one  cupful  of  milk.  Bake  in  two 
loaves. 

This  simple  formula  is  the  foundation  for  scores  of  fancy 
cakes,  especially  of  those  baked  in  layers. 

Nut  cake 

Cream  one  cupful  of  butter  with  two  cupfuls  of  sugar ;  add  a 
cupful  of  cold  water,  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs,  a  half  tea- 
spoonful  of  ground  mace  and  cinnamon,  mixed,  and  three  cup- 
fuls of  prepared  flour,  stirred  in  alternately  with  the  stiffened 
whites  of  the  eggs.  Do  not  get  the  batter  too  stiff.  Now  add 
two  cupfuls  of  hickory-nut  kernels,  thoroughly  dredged  with  flour. 
Stir  in  quickly  and  turn  at  once  into  a  well-greased  loaf-tin. 
Bake  in  a  steady  oven,  covering  the  cake  with  brown  paper  for 
the  first  half-hour  it  is  in  the  oven.  When  a  straw  comes  out 
clean  from  the  thickest  part  it  is  done.  When  cold,  turn  out,  and 
cover  with  a  plain  white-of-egg  icing.  Arrange  half-kernels  of 
hickory-nuts  at  regular  intervals  on  the  top  of  the  icing. 


276  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Sour  cream  cake 

(Contributed) 

Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  until  stiff,  add  one  cupful  of 
sugar  and  one  cupful  of  rich  sour  cream,  in  which  has  been  dis- 
solved one  scant  teaspoonful  of  soda.  Add  two  cupfuls  of  sifted 
flour,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon 
extract.  Bake  in  a  shallow  pan. 

Bride's  cake 

Cream  together  three  cupfuls  of  sugar  and  one  scant  cupful  of 
butter,  adding  the  sugar  a  little  at  a  time.  Add  one  cupful  of  milk. 
Sift  thoroughly  three  cupfuls  of  flour,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 
ing-powder and  one  cupful  of  corn-starch.  Beat  very  light  the 
whites  of  twelve  eggs.  To  the  egg  and  sugar  mixture  add  the 
sifted  flour,  and,  last,  of  all,  the  beaten  whites  of  the  twelve  eggs. 
Flavor  to  taste.  Stir  all  together  thoroughly.  Pour  into  well- 
buttered  and  floured  tins.  Bake  slowly  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Cream  cake 

(Contributed) 

Beat  separately  the  whites  and  yolks  of  four  eggs,  to  the  yolks 
add  two  cupfuls  of  sugar  stirred  in  a  little  at  a  time,  and  one  cup- 
ful of  sweet  cream.  Sift  thoroughly  two  heaping  cupfuls  of  flour, 
one  teaspoonful  of  soda  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar. 
Add  this  to  the  egg  mixture.  Stir  in  the  whites  last,  stirring 
gently. 

Marble  cake 
(Contributed) 

White  Part :  With  two  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  flour  sift  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder.  Cream  one-half  cupful  of  butter 
and  one  cupful  of  white  sugar.  Add  one-half  cupful  of  sweet  milk 
and  the  sifted  flour.  Then  the  whites  of  four  eggs  beaten  stiff 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 


LUNCHEON   CAKES  277 

Dark  Part:  Stir  until  perfectly  smooth  and  creamy  one-half 
cupful  of  butter  and  one  cupful  of  brown  sugar.  Add  to  this  the 
well-beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs,  one-half  cupful  of  cooking  mo- 
hsses,  one-half  cupful  of  sour  milk.  Sift  with  one  and  a  half  cup- 
fuls  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful,  each,  of  cloves,  cinnamon,  mace  and 
grated  nutmeg.  Stir  in  part  of  the  flour  mixture.  Then  add  one 
teaspoonful  of  soda  dissolved  in  a  little  milk,  and  the  rest  of  the 
pour.  Butter  well  the  cake  pan  and  drop  in  a  spoonful  of  each 
]-  'nd.  trying  to  drop  the  mixture  so  as  to  give  the  appearance  of 
Miirble. 

One  egg  cake 

(Contributed) 

Cream  one-half  cup  of  butter,  two  cupfuls  of  sugar;  add  one 
egg  beaten  light,  one  cupful  of  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla, 
'and  two  cupfuls  of  flour  into  which  have  been  sifted  two  level  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  baking-powder.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Caramel  cake 

(Contributed) 

Sift  together  three  cupfuls  of  pastry  flour  and  three  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  baking-powder.  Cream  one-half  cupful  of  butter  and  two 
cupfuls  of  sugar.  Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  until  thick  and 
lemon-colored.  Add  one  cupful  of  milk  and  alternately  the  well- 
beaten  whites  of  the  eggs  and  the  flour.  Then  add  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  vmilla  extract  nnd  one  teacupfnl  of  chopned  w°lnuts.  Bake 
in  loaf  and  when  done  cover  with  the  caramel  frosting. 

Currant  cake 
(Contributed) 

Sift  together  three  jupfuls  of  pastry  tiom  and  three  level  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  baking-powder.  Cream  one  scant  cupful  of  butter 
with  one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  sugar,  adding  the  sugar  gradu- 
ally ;  and  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs  and  one  teaspoonful 


278  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

of  vanilla.  Add  to  this  one-half  cupful  of  milk  alternately  with 
the  flour  and  last  of  all  one  cupful  of  cleaned  and  floured  currants. 
Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  about  fifty  minutes. 


FROSTINGS   FOR    CAKES 
Boiled  frosting  for  cake 

Put  into  a  saucepan  half  a  cupful  of  water  and  a  pound  of  gran- 
ulated sugar  and  let  it  boil  slowly.  Do  not  stir.  When  it  spins 
a  thread  from  the  tip  of  a  spoon  dipped  into  it,  take  it  from  the 
fire.  Set  it  aside  until  it  is  blood-warm,  and  then  stir  steadily 
until  you  have  a  smooth  white  cream.  Apply  it  to  the  cake  as  you 
would  any  other  icing.  If  made  properly  it  will  harden  by  the 
time  it  is  fairly  on  the  cake.  If  it  hardens  too%much  before  it  is 
used  set  it  in  warm  water  until  it  softens.  Flavor  it  while  stirring. 

Frosting  for  plain  loaf  cake 

One  cupful  of  cream ;  one  pound  of  confectioner's  sugar  XXX  ; 
one  cupful  of  seeded  raisins,  chopped;  one  cupful  of  almonds, 
chopped ;  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice.  Mix  quite  stiff. 

Chocolate  frosting  for  layer  cake 

Put  into  a  porcelain-lined  saucepan  a  cupful  of  granulated  su- 
gar and  a  third  of  a  cupful  of  hot  water  and  boil  without  stirring 
until  it  threads,  then  pour  slowly  upon  the  beaten  white  of  an  egg 
to  which  has  been  added  a  pinch  of  cream  of  tartar.  Beat  stead- 
ily, adding,  as  you  do  so,  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  grated 
chocolate,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  a  half-teaspoonful  of  but- 
ter, and  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  When  the  mixture  is  blood- 
warm,  cover  the  cake  with  it. 

Milk  frosting 

(Contributed) 

To  ten  tablespoonfuls  of  sweet  milk,  add  one  and  one-half  cup- 
fuls  of  sugar,  and  boil  six  minutes.  Take  from  the  fire  and  stir 
until  white.  Flavor  and  spread  quickly. 


LUNCHEON    CAKES  279 

Frosting  made  with  yolks 

(Contributed) 

Proceed  exactly  the  same  as  for  ordinary  frosting,  using  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs  instead  of  the  whites. 


VARIOUS    FILLINGS   FOR    CAKE 
Marshmallow  filling 

Dissolve  five  teaspoonfuls  of  powdered  gum  arabic  in  half  a 
cup  of  cold  water,  add  half  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar  and  boil 
until  thick  enough  to  form  a  soft  ball  between  the  fingers  when 
dropped  into  ice  water.  Pour  upon  the  white  of  an  egg  beaten 
stiff,  flavor  with  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  and  a  few  drops  of 
lemon  juice  and  spread  on  the  cake  with  a  knife  dipped  in  hot 
water. 

Soft  white  filling  for  layer  cake 

Make  a  syrup  of  a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar  and  a  third  of  a 
cupful  of  water  and  simmer  over  the  fire  until  it  threads.  Beat  the 
whites  of  two  eggs  stiff,  add  a  generous  pinch  of  cream  of  tartar, 
and  beat  steadily  while  you  pour  in  the  hot  syrup.  Do  not  cease 
beating  until  it  is  like  a  thick  white  paste ;  then  flavor  with  vanilla 
or  lemon  and  spread  at  once  on  the  layer  cakes. 

Caramel  filling  (No.  1) 

Put  together  over  the  fire  three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of  cream, 
half  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  a  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Cook  until 
it  spins  a  thread,  add  to  it  four  tablespoonfuls  of  burnt  sugar,  or 
caramel,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  When  it  is  cool,  use  for  the 
filling  and  frosting  of  cake. 

Caramel  filling  (No.  2) 

Make  the  caramel  of  burnt  sugar  by  putting  a  cupful  of  sugar 
over  the  fire  with  a  quarter-cup  of  water  and  let  them  boil  until 


280  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

the  syrup  begins  to  change  color.  Tip  the  saucepan  from  one 
side  to  the  other  so  that  it  may  brown  equally.  When  it  is  nearly 
black,  but  before  it  has  begun  to  char,  add  to  it  a  cupful  of  boiling 
water,  pouring  it  in  carefully  lest  in  its  sputtering  you  should  be 
scorched.  It  must  boil  after  this  until  all  is  dissolved  and  it  is 
like  very  dark  syrup.  In  making  your  cake  filling  put  over  the 
fire  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of 
cream  and  half  a  cupful  of  white  sugar.  Boil  all  together  until 
they  spin  a  thread  from  the  end  of  a  fork  tine,  add  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  caramel  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  and  set  aside 
to  cool.  Use  for  filling  and  frosting  cakes. 

Raisin  filling 

One  cupful  of  granulated  sugar  and  one-fourth  cupful  of  water. 
Boil  together  without  stirring  until  it  is  brittle  when  dropped  into 
cold  water.  Stir  quickly  into  the  beaten  white  of  one  egg.  Add 
to  this  one  small  cup  of  stoned  raisins  chopped  very  fine. 

Cocoanut  filling 
( Contributed) 

Chill  one  cupful  of  thick  sweet  cream  and  add  one-half  cupful 
of  powdered  sugar.  Whip  until  light  and  dry  and  fold  in  the 
well-beaten  white  of  one  egg  and  one  cupful  of  grated  cocoanut. 
Spread  between  the  layers  and  over  the  top  of  the  cake. 

Custard  filling 
(Contributed) 

Put  two  cupfuls  of  milk  into  a  double  boiler  and  bring  to  the 
boiling  point.  Moisten  two  tablespoonfuls  of  corn-starch  in  a 
little  cold  milk.  Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  very  light  and  add 
one-half  cupful  of  sugar ;  then  the  corn-starch.  Stir  this  mixture 
with  the  boiling  milk  and  let  it  cook  long  enough  for  the  corn- 
starch  to  be  thoroughly  cooked.  Flavor  when  almost  cold. 


LUNCHEON    CAKES  281 

Fig  filling 
(Contributed) 

Put  one  cupful  of  water  into  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  and  add 
one-half  cupful  of  sugar.  Add  one  pint  of  figs,  finely  chopped, 
to  the  syrup  and  cook  together  until  soft  and  smooth.  When  cold 
spread  between  the  layers  of  the  cake. 

Almond  filling 
(Contributed) 

Beat  three  cupfuls  of  powdered  sugar  into  the  whites  of  three 
eggs.  Blanch  one  pound  of  sweet  almonds.  Pound  in  a  mortar 
until  they  make  an  even  paste,  with  a  little  sugar.  Then  add  to 
the  whites  of  the  eggs,  and  flavor  with  a  little  vanilla.  Stir  thor- 
oughly. 

GINGERBREADS 

Molasses  gingerbread  (No.  1) 

Warm  together  two  cupfuls  of  molasses,  a  half  cupful  each  of 
cottolene  or  other  fat  and  butter,  and  two  tablespoonf uls  of  ground 
ginger,  and  when  a  little  more  than  blood-warm,  beat  hard  for 
ten  minutes;  then  add  two  teaspoonfuls  of  soda  dissolved  in  a 
little  hot  water,  a  cupful  of  sour  milk  and  enough  flour  to  make  a 
soft  dough  that  can  be  rolled  out.  Turn  on  a  floured  board,  roll 
out,  cut  into  shapes  and  bake  in  a  good  oven.  While  hot  brush 
over  with  the  white  of  an  egg. 

Molasses  gingerbread  (No.  2) 

One  cupful  of  New  Orleans  molasses ;  one  cupful  of  sugar ;  one 
cupful  of  sour  cream ;  one  small  cupful  of  butter ;  three  eggs ; 
three  cupfuls  of  flour;  one  teaspoonful  each  of  cloves,  cinnamon, 
ginger  and  baking-soda,  the  last  dissolved  in  a  little  hot  water. 
Bake  in  two  loaves  in  a  moderate  oven. 


282  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Hard  gingerbread 

In  a  double  boiler  heat  a  cupful  of  New  Orleans  molasses,  and 
add  half  a  cupful  of  melted  butter  to  it.  Pour  into  a  bowl  and 
when  blood-warm  add  a  tablespoonful  of  ginger,  a  half  teaspoon- 
ful  of  soda  dissolved  in  a  little  boiling  water,  and  stir  in  enough 
flour  to  make  a  stiff  dough.  Turn  upon  a  floured  board,  roll  thin, 
cut  out  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 


Soft  gingerbread 

Sift  one  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder  and  a  half  teaspoonful 
of  salt  twice  with  two  cupfuls  of  flour.  Stir  to  a  cream  half  a  cup- 
ful of  butter,  the  same  of  sugar  and  the  same  of  molasses.  Warm 
the  mixture  slightly  and  beat  light  before  adding  a  well-whipped 
egg,  a  half  teaspoonful  of  ground  mace  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
ginger.  Dissolve  half  a  teaspoonful  of  baking  soda  in  a  table- 
spoonful  of  hot  water ;  stir  this  into  half  a  cupful  of  sweet  milk ; 
lastly,  stir  in  the  flour ;  beat  hard  for  one  minute,  and  bake  in  two 
shallow  pans,  well  buttered,  or  in  pate  pans. 

Kaisin  gingerbread 

Mix  as  above,  adding  at  the  last  half  a  cupful  of  seeded  raisins 
cut  into  halves  and  well  dredged  with  flour. 

Aunt  Nelly's  gingerbread 

Sift  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  an  even  teaspoonful  of  bak- 
ing-soda in  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  flour.  Rub  to  a  cream  half 
a  cupful  of  butter,  with  an  equal  quantity  of  brown  sugar  and  of 
molasses.  Beat  smooth  and  light,  adding,  gradually,  half  a  cupful 
of  milk.  Now  stir  in  a  cupful  of  prepared  flour,  after  which  add 
more  flour  until  you  can  knead  it  as  you  would  bread  dough. 
Work  it  hard  for  one  minute,  roll  into  an  even  sheet,  and  cut  to  fit 
your  baking  pans,  which  must  be  well  greased.  Cut  into  squares 
with  a  jagging  iron  as  the  sheet  lies  in  the  pan,  and  bake  in  a 
good  oven  covered  for  twelve  minutes.  Then  uncover  and  brown. 


LUNCHEON    CAKES  283 

Gingerbread,  "such  as  mother  used  to  make" 

Mix  together  a  half-cupful  each  of  brown  sugar  and  New  Or- 
leans molasses,  and  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  ground  ginger  and  a  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon.  Set 
the  bowl  containing  these  ingredients  at  the  side  of  the  range  until 
the  contents  are  blood- warm;  then  remove  from  the  range  and 
beat  with  an  egg-beater  until  the  batter  is  light  brown  in  color. 
Now  stir  in  a  cupful  of  sour  milk  and  three  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour. 
Beat  very  hard,  adding,  last  of  all,  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-soda 
dissolved  in  hot  water.  Beat  for  two  minutes  longer  and  bake 
in  deep  muffin-tins,  or  in  a  shallow  baking-pan. 

Sour  milk  gingerbread 

Mix  together  a  half  cupful  of  sugar,  a  half  cupful  of  molasses, 
a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  a  half  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger.  Set  the  bowl  containing  this 
mixture  at  the  side  of  the  range  until  the  contents  are  warm,  then 
beat  until  light  in  color  and  foamy  in  appearance.  Now  beat  in  a 
teacupful  of  sour  milk,  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  dissolved  in  a  table- 
spoonful  of  boiling  water,  and  two  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  flour. 
Turn  into  a  greased  shallow  pan,  and  bake  in  a  steady  oven.  Eat 
hot. 

Currant  gingerbread 

Make  as  directed  in  last  recipe,  adding  at  the  last  half  a  cupful 
of  currants  that  have  been  carefully  washed  and  picked  over,  then 
soaked  for  half  an  hour  in  warm  water,  dried  between  two  towels 
and  dredged  with  flour. 

Honey  gingerbread 

Warm  a  generous  half-cupful  of  butter  and  beat  into  it  two 
scant  cupfuls  of  strained  honey.  When  you  have  a  light  cream, 
beat  in  one  tablespoonful  of  powdered  sugar,  a  tablespoonful  of 
ginger  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon.  Now  add  the  beaten 
yolks  of  four  eggs,  and,  alternately  with  the  frothed  whites,  three 


284  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

even  cupfuls  of  flour  sifted  twice  with  a  teaspoonful  of  baking- 
powder. 

Beat  hard  for  one  minute  and  bake  in  buttered  shallow  pans  in 
a  moderate  oven  forty-five  minutes.  Keep  covered  for  thirty 
minutes. 


SMALL    CAKES 

WHAT  the  old-fashioned  people  call  "dough  cakes" — what  we 
term  "cookies"  or  "jumbles" — are  amongst  the  most  popular  small 
cakes  that  the  housemother  can  present  to  her  brood.  The  only 
trouble  is  that  they  are  sometimes  too  popular,  as  they  melt  away 
before  John's  and  the  boys'  onslaughts  like  snow  under  spring 
sunshine.  Still  the  mother  makes  them  gladly.  It  is  always  a 
great  convenience  to  have  a  stone  crock  full  of  cookies  in  the 
house.  They  are  nice  for  luncheon,  for  afternoon  tea,  and  to  eat 
with  a  glass  of  milk  before  going  to  bed.  They  must  be  kept 
in  a  dry  atmosphere,  as  they  are  doubly  delicious  when  crisp  and 
friable. 

Almond  macaroons 

Beat  the  whites  of  three  eggs  stiff  and  whip  into  them  half  a 
cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  a  quarter-pound  of  almond  paste,  crum- 
bled fine,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  corn-starch,  and  five  drops  of  es- 
sence of  bitter  almonds.  Drop  by  the  spoonful  on  buttered  pa- 
per and  bake  in  a  hot  oven.  If  you  can  not  get  almond  paste, 
pound  blanched  almonds  fine. 

Cocoanut  macaroons 

Into  two  cups  of  grated  cocoanut  stir  a  cupful  and  a  half  of 
powdered  sugar  and  a  gill  of  cream,  or  just  enough  to  wet  the 
cocoanut.  Add  the  beaten  whites  of  two  eggs,  and  mix  all  thor- 
oughly. Line  a  baking  pan  with  buttered  paper,  drop  the  cocoa- 
nut  mixture  by  the  teaspoonful  upon  this  and  bake  quickly  in  a 
hot  oven.  Sift  powdered  sugar  over  the  macaroons  while  they  are 
still  warm. 


LUNCHEON    CAKES  285 

Auntie's  cookies 

One  cupful  of  butter ;  two  cupfuls  of  sugar ;  three  eggs ;  one- 
half  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder;  one  even  teaspoonful  of  nut- 
meg and  half  as  much  cloves ;  flour  for  a  soft  dough.  Begin  with 
two  cupfuls,  adding  cautiously  until  you  have  the  right  consist- 
ency. 

Rub  butter  and  sugar  to  a  soft  cream ;  add  the  yolks  of  the  eggs, 
beaten  light,  then  the  spice,  one  cupful  of  flour  with  which  the 
baking-powder  has  been  sifted  twice,  and  half  the  whites  beaten 
stiff.  Next  another  cupful  of  flour  and  the  rest  of  the  whites. 
Roll  into  a  sheet  of  dough  about  a  quarter-inch  thick,  cut  into 
rounds  and  bake  in  a  good  oven.  If  you  like,  you  may  stick  a 
seeded  raisin  or  a  bit  of  citron  in  the  top  of  each  cooky  before 
baking. 

Currant  cookies 

One  cupful  of  sugar;  two  scant  cupfuls  of  flour;  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter ;  two  eggs ;  one  scant  teaspoonful  of  baking- 
powder;  one  cupful  of  cleaned  currants,  chopped  fine;  nutmeg 
and  cinnamon  to  taste. 

Rub  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream;  add  spices  and  the  eggs 
beaten  light,  then  the  flour  with  which  the  baking-powder  has 
been  sifted  twice;  lastly,  the  chopped  currants.  Roll  out  with 
quick,  light  strokes,  cut  into  shapes  and  bake  in  a  tolerably  brisk 
oven.  They  are  better  the  second  day  after  baking  than  on  the 
first. 

Oatmeal  cookies 

Mix  together  four  cupfuls  of  flour  (into  which  you  have  sifted 
a  teaspoonful  of  soda)  and  three  cupfuls  of  oatmeal ;  add  two  cup- 
fuls of  powdered  sugar,  a  cupful  of  melted  butter,  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Moisten  the  mass  with  enough  cold  water  to 
make  a  very  stiff  dough.  Roll  as  thin  as  possible,  cut  into  round 
cakes  and  bake.  This  will  make  a  very  large  number  of  cookies, 
but  they  will  keep  well  for  weeks. 


286  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

German  almond  cookies 

The  yolks  of  six  eggs ;  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  sugar ;  three- 
quarters  of  a  cupful  of  butter ;  one  cupful  of  almonds,  chopped : 
one  tablespoonful  of  cinnamon ;  three  cupfuls  of  flour.  Beat  well, 
drop  small  spoonfuls  on  a  well-greased  pan  and  bake  lightly. 

Sponge  cookies 

Beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  light  with  one  cupful  of  sugar. 
When  smooth,  add  the  whites  beaten  to  a  standing  froth,  the  juice 
of  half  a  lemon,  and,  with  quick,  light  strokes,  a  cupful  of  flour 
sifted  twice  with  one  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder  and  a  little 
salt.  Now,  work  in  more  flour  until  you  have  a  "reliable"  dough. 
Cut  into  shapes,  and  bake  quickly  in  a  floured  shallow  pan. 

Lemon  cookies 

Cream  two  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar  and  one  cupful  of  but- 
ter. Add  three  beaten  eggs  and  flavor  with  lemon  juice.  Sift  into 
the  mixture  enough  flour  to  make  the  dough  stiff  enough  to  han- 
dle, roll  thin,  cut  out  and  bake. 

Spice  cookies 

Cream  one  cupful  of  butter  with  two  of  sugar,  and  add  three 
eggs.  Mix  together  a  teaspoonful  each  of  allspice,  cinnamon  and 
nutmeg,  and  stir  these  into  the  batter.  Add  enough  flour  to  make 
a  good  dough,  roll  out  and  bake. 

Caraway  cookies 

Rub  one-half  cupful  of  butter  to  a  cream  with  one  cupful  of 
powdered  sugar,  and  when  light  beat  in  the  yolks  of  three  eggs. 
Beat  the  whites  stiff  and  add  them  alternately  with  two  cupfuls  of 
flour.  Stir  in  one  teaspoonful  of  caraway  seed  and  enough  more 
flour  to  enable  you  to  roll  it  very  thin.  Cut  into,  rounds  and  bake 
quickly. 


LUNCHEON    CAKES  287 

Fanny's  cookies 

Into  two  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar  rub  one  cupful  of  butter, 
then  stir  in  three  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  flour  enough  to  make  a 
stiff  dough.  Roll  out  on  a  floured  board,  cut,  sprinkle  with  gran- 
ulated sugar,  stick  a  raisin  in  the  center  of  each  and  bake. 

Sand  cookies 

Cream  a  cupful  of  butter  with  two  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar, 
add  two  eggs  beaten  light,  yolks  and  whites  separately,  then  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  ground  mace  or  of  nutmeg.  Have  ready  three 
cupfuls  of  flour  sifted  twice  with  one  teaspoonful  of  baking-pow- 
der, and  work  into  the  mixture  until  you  can  roll  out  the  dough. 

Cut  round  with  a  tin  cutter;  wash  the  tops  lightly  with  white 
of  egg;  press  half  of  a  split  blanched  almond  into  the  center  of 
each,  and  sprinkle  well  with  coarse  granulated  sugar. 

This  is  the  "sand." 

Bake  quickly. 

Peanut  cookies 

One  cupful  of  butter;  one  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  powdered 
sugar ;  three  eggs ;  one  cupful  of  freshly  roasted  peanuts,  pounded, 
rolled  to  a  coarse  powder,  and  mixed  with  about  three  cupfuls  of 
flour. 

Cream  the  butter  and  sugar,  add  the  beaten  eggs,  then  the  flour 
and  crushed  peanuts.  The  dough  should  be  just  stiff  enough  to 
handle  easily.  Drop  the  dough  by  the  spoonful  upon  a  floured 
board,  pat  it  into  round  cakes  with  the  fingers,  grate  a  little  nut- 
meg over  the  top  of  each  cake  and  bake.  A  novelty,  and  one  that 
is  likely  to  be  popular. 

Alma's  drop  cakes 

Beat  five  eggs  light — yolks  and  whites  separately.  Into  the 
yolks  stir  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and 
half  the  grated  peel— then  the  stiffened  whites  of  the  eggs.  Sift 
together  a  heaping  cupful  of  flour  and  a  teaspoonful  of  baking- 


288  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

powder,  and  beat  this  into  the  other  ingredients.  Line  a  hot  but- 
tered pan  with  thick  writing  paper,  wTell  buttered ;  drop  the  batter 
by  the  spoonful  upon  the  paper,  and  bake  at  once  in  a  quick  oven. 
Sift  powdered  sugar  over  them  while  hot. 

Vanilla  cookies 

Cream  one  cupful  of  butter  with  two  of  sugar,  and  stir  in  a  cup- 
ful of  sour  cream,  two  beaten  eggs  and  three  cupfuls  of  flour 
sifted  twice  with  a  teaspoonful  of  soda.  Flavor  with  vanilla  ex- 
tract. If  your  dough  is  not  stiff  enough  to  handle,  add  more 
sifted  flour  until  it  is  of  the  right  consistency.  Roll  into  a  sheet 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  cut  into  rounds  and  bake. 

Cocoamit  cream  puffs 

These  cakes,  while  requiring  care  in  their  preparation,  amply 
repay  one  for  the  time  spent  in  their  making. 

Into  a  cupful  of  hot  water  stir  a  half-cupful  of  butter  and  bring 
to  a  boil.  Then  add  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  flour,  and  cook  (stir- 
ring constantly)  for  two  minutes ;  take  from  the  fire  and  pour  into 
a  bowl  to  cool.  When  the  mixture  is  cold  beat  into  it  the  whipped 
yolks  of  four  eggs ;  lastly,  the  stiffened  whites.  Line  a  baking  pan 
with  buttered  paper ;  drop  the  batter  by  the  large  spoonful  upon  it, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  The  puffs  should  be  done  in  fifteen 
minutes.  When  they  are  cold  cut  off  the  tops,  fill  with  the  fol- 
lowing mixture  and  replace  the  tops. 

Filling 

Into  two  cupfuls  of  thick  whipped  cream  beat  a  cupful  of  grated 
cocoanut,  half  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
extract  of  bitter  almonds.  Whip  up  hard  before  putting  into  the 
puff  shells. 

Molasses  cookies 

Warm  a  cupful  of  molasses  slightly  and  beat  to  a  cream  with 
half  a  cupful  of  softened  butter.  Add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
one  tablespoonful  of  ginger  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon. 


LUNCHEON    CAKES  289 

Now  stir  in  two  cnpfuls  of  flour  sifted  three  times  with  an  even 
teaspoonful  of  baking-soda,  until  you  have  a  soft  dough.  Roll  out 
and  cut  into  shapes.  Bake  in  a  good  oven. 

Ginger  jumbles 

Into  two  cupfuls  of  molasses  stir  a  cupful  of  melted  butter,  a 
teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon,  a  tablespoonful  of  pulverized 
ginger,  and  a  half  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-soda.  Beat  well,  add 
enough  flour  to  make  a  soft  dough,  form  with  floured  hands  into 
small  cakes  and  bake. 

Gingersnaps  (No.  1) 

One  cupful  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of  butter,  one  tablespoonful  of 
ginger,  one  teaspoonful  of  soda  dissolved  in  a  little  water,  as  much 
flour  as  can  be  stirred  in  with  a  spoon — not  kneaded.  Pinch  off 
a  bit  of  the  dough  the  size  of  a  large  marble,  roll  in  the  hands 
until  round,  pat  it  flat  and  place  in  a  pan,  leaving  between  each 
cake  space  for  spreading;  bake  in  a  good  oven  to  a  moderate 
brown.  Leave  in  the  pan  until  sufficiently  cool  to  be  "snappy." 

Gingersnaps  (No.  2) 

Cream  a  cupful  of  butter  with  one  of  sugar,  beat  in  a  cupful  of 
molasses,  stir  in  a  cupful  of  water,  a  teaspoonful  each  of  ground 
ginger  and  cinnamon,  a  teaspoonful  of  allspice  and  a  scant  one  of 
soda  sifted  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  flour.  Add  enough  flour  to 
make  a  dough  that  can  be  rolled  out,  roll  thin,  cut  into  rounds, 
and  bake. 

Pfeffernusse 
(A  German  recipe.) 

One  pound  of  fine  flour,  sifted;  one  teaspoonful  of  baking- 
powder  ;   one  pound  of  sugar,   sifted ;   four   large   eggs ;   three 
ounces  of  citron ;  the  grated  rind  of  6ne  lemon ;  one  grated  nut- 
meg; one  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon;  one  scant  teaspoonful  of 
19 


290  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

ground  cloves.  Mix  the  baking-powder  and  spices  and  sift  with 
the  flour,  then  work  in  the  beaten  eggs  and  sugar ;  form  into  small 
balls  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven.  Place  in  a  pan  sufficiently  far  apart 
to  allow  them  to  swell  to  the  size  of  macaroons  when  baked. 

White  peppernuts 

Cream  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar  and  a  half- 
cupful  of  butter  together,  add  three  eggs,  beaten  light,  a  half  cup- 
ful of  milk,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  vanilla  extract,  and  flour  sifted 
with  two  even  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder.  Add  this  flour 
until  stiff  enough  to  roll  out ;  roll  a  half  inch  thick,  cut  out  with  a 
thimble  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven.  Care  should  be  taken  to  put  them 
so  far  apart  that  they  will  not  run  together  in  the  baking. 

9 

Brown  peppernuts 

Three  eggs ;  one  cupful  of  brown  sugar ;  a  half-cupful  of  but- 
ter ;  one  cupful  of  molasses ;  a  half-cupful  of  sour  or  buttermilk ; 
a  teaspoonful  of  baking-soda ;  a  scant  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon 
and  ginger,  and  flour  enough  to  handle.  Mix,  roll  out  and  bake 
as  you  would  white  peppernuts. 

Peppernuts  (No.  4) 

Mix  together  half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs,  one  whole  egg  and  a  quarter-teaspoonf ul  of  potash  pro- 
cured from  a  druggist.  Stir  thk  well  for  fifteen  minutes ;  add  a 
quarter-ounce  of  ground  cinnamon,  a  quarter-teaspoonful  each  of 
ground  pepper  and  cloves,  and  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon.  When 
all  is  well  mixed,  put  with  it  half  a  pound  of  pastry  flour.  Knead 
well  on  a  floured  board,  roll  out  about  half  an  inch  thick  and  cut 
into  small  rounds  with  a  biscuit  cutter.  Bake  in  a  greased  tin 
in  a  very  moderate  oven. 

Peppernuts  (No.  5) 

Sift  together  two  cupfuls  of  sugar,  four  cupfuls  of  flour,  one 
tablespoonful  of  cinnamon,  half  a  tablespoonful  of  cloves,  and  one 


LUNCHEON    CAKES  291 

and  a  half  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder.  Add  to  this  half  a  cup- 
ful of  citron,  chopped  fine ;  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon  and  a  quar- 
ter of  a  nutmeg.  Make  to  a  dough  with  four  eggs  beaten  enough 
to  mix  yolks  and  whites.  Shape  into  balls  the  size  of  a  hickory- 
nut,  with  buttered  hands,  and  bake  in  pans  lined  with  greased  pa- 
per. When  done,  cover  with  an  icing. 

Icing  for  peppernuts 

Into  two  tablespoonfuls  of  boiling  water  stir  enough  confec- 
tioner's sugar  to  make  it  thick.  Flavor  with  lemon  juice  and  a 
little  of  the  grated  rind.  The  icing  should  be  of  the  right  con- 
sistency to  be  applied  with  a  pastry  brush.  Let  the  cakes  stand 
in  a  cool,  dry  place  until  the  icing  has  hardened. 

Vanities  (No.  1) 

Beat  two  eggs ;  stir  in  a  pinch  of  salt  and  a  half-teaspoonful  of 
rose  water ;  add  sifted  flour  until  just  stiff  enough  to  roll  out.  Cut 
with  a  cake-cutter  and  fry  quickly  in  hot  cottolene  or  other  fat. 
Sift  powdered  sugar  on  them  while  hot,  and  when  cool  put  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  jelly  in  the  center  of  each. 

Vanities  (No.  2) 

Boil  a  cupful  of  milk  and  thicken  it  in  the  saucepan  with  flour 
to  a  stiff  dough.  Let  it  become  cool,  then  break  in  three  eggs, 
one  at  a  time,  and  beat  thoroughly.  Add  a  tablespoonf ul  of  melted 
butter.  Drop  it  by  small  teaspoonfuls  into  hot  cottolene  or  some 
good  fat,  fry  to  a  delicate  brown ;  drain  and  roll  in  a  mixture  of 
sugar  and  cinnamon. 

Anise  cakes 

Cream  a  half-pound  of  butter  with  a  half-pound  of  sugar,  add 
three  well-beaten  eggs  and  enough  flour  to  make  a  stiff  dough, 
adding  to  the  flour  an  ounce  of  anise  seed.  Roll  into  a  thin  sheet, 
cut  into  shapes  with  a  cutter  and  bake. 


292  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Hermits 

Cream  together  a  cupful  of  butter  and  two  of  sugar.  Beat  in 
the  whipped  yolks  of  three  eggs,  add  a  half-cupful  of  milk  and 
then  the  beaten  whites.  Work  in  two  cupfuls  of  flour,  sifted  twice 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder,  and  if  this  does  not  make 
a  dough  that  could  be  rolled  out,  add  more  flour  cautiously,  not 
to  have  the  cakes  too  stiff.  Roll  into  a  very  thin  sheet,  strew 
thickly  with  the  kernels  of  hickory-nuts,  pecans  or  English  wal- 
nuts, chopped  fine  and  sprinkled  with  sugar.  Fold  the  dough 
once  over  the  nuts,  passing  the  rolling-pin  lightly  over  the  upper 
sheet,  and  cut  into  rounds  with  a  cake  cutter.  Bake  in  a  quick 
oven,  covered,  for  fifteen  minutes ;  uncover  and  brown. 

Plain  cookies 

(Contributed) 

Cream  together  one  cupful  of  butter  and  two  cupfuls  of  sugar. 
Add  one  egg,  well  beaten,  one  cupful  of  milk,  three  teaspoonfuls 
of  baking-powder  and  flour  enough  to  make  a  soft  dough.  Roll 
thin,  cut  in  small  cakes  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Eggless  cookies 

(Contributed) 

Cream  one  cupful  of  butter  and  add  one  cupful  of  sweet  milk, 
one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  soda  dissolved 
in  a  little  warm  water.  Use  flour  enough  to  make  a  soft  dough. 
Cakes  made  by  this  recipe  will  keep  fresh  for  a  long  time. 


THE  DOUGHNUT  AND  CBULLER  FAMILY 

THESE  crisp  and  toothsome  dainties  may  be  made  several  weeks 
before  they  are  needed,  as  they  improve  with  age.  Keep  them 
in  a  stone  crock,  or  large  tin  cracker-box  with  a  closely-fitting 


LUNCHEON    CAKES  293 

cover.  As  you  pack  them  down,  sprinkle  each  layer  with  powdered 
sugar. 

Have  a  large  quantity  cut  out  before  you  begin  the  work  of 
frying,  for  when  the  fat  has  attained  the  proper  state  of  heat  you 
will  not  want  to  set  it  to  one  side  to  cool,  while  you  roll  out  another 
batch  of  the  small  cakes.  Of  course,  crullers  and  doughnuts  do 
not  really  taste  better  when  cut  into  various  shapes,  but,  since 
John  and  the  boys  fancy  that  they  do,  the  mother  will  do  well 
to  indulge  the  innocent  notion  and  to  twist  and  turn  the  raw 
dough  into  fantastic  and  attractive  forms. 

Heat  the  cottolene  or  other  fat  used  for  frying  gradually  until 
so  hot  that  a  piece  of  the  dough  used  as  a  test  will  rise  to  the  sur- 
face at  once,  swell  immediately  and  brown  quickly.  As  the  dough- 
nuts brown,  remove  them  from  the  kettle  with  a  perforated 
spoon  and  lay  in  a  colander,  set  at  the  side  of  the  stove,  to  drain 
free  of  grease.  Transfer  to  a  platter,  and  while  hot,  sprinkle  with 
sugar. 

Quick  doughnuts 

Cream  one  cupful  of  sugar  with  half  a  cupful  of  butter,  add  one 
cupful  of  milk,  two  eggs,  beaten  light,  one  tablespoonful  of  cinna- 
mon and  nutmeg  mixed,  and  two  cupfuls  of  flour  into  which  has 
been  sifted  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder.  Work  in 
enough  flour  to  make  a  soft  dough.  Roll  out  into  a  sheet  nearly 
an  inch  thick,  and  cut  into  shapes  with  a  cutter.  Fry  in  deep 
cottolene  or  other  fat. 

Sour  milk  doughnuts 

Cream  a  cupful  of  butter  and  two  cupfuls  of  sugar;  add  four 
beaten  eggs,  a  half-pint  of  sour  milk,  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  dis- 
solved in  a  little  boiling  water,  a  teaspoonful  each  of  nutmeg  and 
cinnamon,  and  enough  flour  to  make  a  dough  that  can  be  rolled 
out.  Roll  and  cut  into  shapes.  Fry  in  deep,  boiling  cottolene  or 
other  fat,  which  has  been  heated  slowly. 

Mother's  doughnuts 

Cream  a  generous  half  cupful  of  butter  with  two  cupfuls  of  su-. 
gar ;  add  three  well-beaten  eggs,  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  milk,  and 


294  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

about  five  cupfuls  of  flour,  which  has  been  sifted  with  three  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  baking-powder.  Add  this  flour  gradually  until  you 
have  enough  to  make  a  dough  that  can  be  rolled  out,  as  it  may  not 
take  the  full  amount.  Roll  out,  cut  into  rounds,  drop  into  boiling 
cottolene  or  other  fat  and  fry  to  a  golden  brown.  Drain  in  a  col- 
ander, and  while  hot  sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar. 

Ideal  crullers 

Rub  together  a  half-pound  of  butter  and  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  powdered  sugar.  When  you  have  a  soft  cream,  work 
in  gradually  six  beaten  eggs,  a  half-teaspoonful  each  of  nutmeg 
and  cinnamon,  and  by  the  handful  enough  flour  to  enable  you 
to  roll  out  the  dough.  Avoid  getting  it  too  stiff.  Roll  into  a  very 
thin  sheet  and  cut  into  rings.  The  centers  of  the  rings  make 
prettly  little  marble-shaped  crullers.  Fry  in  deep  boiling  cotto- 
lene or  other  fat,  which  has  been  heated  slowly. 

Mary's  crullers 

Rub  half  a  pound  of  butter  to  a  cream  with  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  pulverized  sugar.  Beat  in  the  yolks  of  five  eggs,  whipped 
smooth;  add  an  even  teaspoonful  of  mace  and  cinnamon  mixed, 
lastly  the  stiffened  whites  of  the  eggs,  alternately  with  enough 
flour  for  a  stiff  dough.  Begin  with  two  cupfuls  (sifted).  Roll 
out,  cut  into  fancy  shapes  and  set  in  a  cold  place  for  an  hour  be- 
fore frying  in  deep,  boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat. 

Buttermilk  crullers 

Into  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  granulated  sugar  rub  three-quarters 
of  a  cupful  of  butter,  add  two  eggs,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  dis- 
solved in  a  tablespoonful  of  hot  water,  and  a  cupful  and  a  half  of 
buttermilk.  Now  sift  in  enough  flour  to  make  a  tender  dough, 
roll  out  and  fry. 


LUNCHEON    CAKES  295 

Sunnybank  crullers 

Rub  together  four  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  a  generous  cup- 
ful of  powdered  sugar ;  add  to  the  cream  thus  made  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  powdered  cinnamon  and  beat  it  in  thoroughly.  Now 
add  four  well-beaten  eggs,  and  whip  long  and  hard.  Last  of  all, 
sift  in  very  gradually  enough  flour  to  make  a  stiff  dough.  Roll 
this  out  and,  with  a  fancy  cake-cutter,  cut  it  into  small  orna- 
mental shapes.  The  bits  of  dough  left  over  may  be  gathered  up, 
put  together  and  rolled  out  again,  then  cut  into  strips  and  small 
squares.  After  the  crullers  are  cooked  and  drained  free  of  fat, 
spread  them  upon  a  platter  and  sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar  and 
cinnamon  in  the  proportion  of  a  teaspoonful  of  the  spice  to  half  a 
cupful  of  sugar. 


FAMILIAR  TALK 
A    FRIENDLY    WORD    WITH    "OTTR    MAID" 

To  BEGIN  with — I  wish  I  could  devise  some  method  of  convinc- 
ing you  that  I  am  really  and  truly  "friendly." 

A  newspaper  article  I  have  just  read  says,  "It  can  not  be  denied 
that  the  present  attitude  of  American  mistress  and  maid  is,  at 
best,  one  of  armed  neutrality." 

Put  into  everyday  English,  that  means  that  each  is  willing,  if 
convenient,  to  get  along  comfortably  and  pleasantly  with  the 
other,  but  that  each  holds  herself  ready  to  fight,  if  fighting  seems 
to  be  advisable. 

This,  "attitude"  is  all  wrong,  through  and  through.  I  should 
like  to  change  it  in  your  mind  before  I  begin  to  talk  with  you. 

The  best  and  most  wonderful  Book  ever  written  tells  us  that 
the  men  who,  once  upon  a  time,  built  the  ruined  walls  and  temple 
of  Jerusalem,  held  a  trowel,  or  spade,  or  hammer  in  one  hand, 
and  a  sword  or  spear  in  the  other,  because  their  enemies  were  ly- 
ing in  wait,  watching  for  an  opportunity  to  attack  them.  We  are 
not  surprised  to  read  in  the  same  chapter  that  these  enemies 
laughed  at  the  sort  of  work  done  under  such  circumstances.  They 
said,  "If  a  fox  go  up,  he  shall  even  break  down  their  stone  wall." 
Two  hands  are  better  for  doing  work  than  one;  two  heads  are 
better  for  planning  work  than  one;  two  hearts  at  peace  with 
each  other  are  the  greatest  possible  help  to  head  and  hands. 

Take  it  for  granted  when  you  take  a  place  that  your  employer 
is  friendly  to  you.  Don't  look  upon  her  as  a  possible  enemy.  When 
she  trusts  you  to  handle  delicate  china,  take  care  of  handsome  fur- 
niture or  to  cook  materials  for  the  meals  she  and  her  family  are  to 
eat,  she  shows  that  she  has  confidence  in  your  ability  and  your 

296 


FAMILIAR    TALK  297 

honesty.  When  she  entrusts  her  little  children  to  your  care,  she 
proves  this  yet  more  plainly.  After  inquiring  into  your  character 
and  manner  of  work,  she  is  so  far  satisfied  that  you  are  just  what 
she  wants  that  she  has  received  you  into  her  house  and,  in  one 
sense,  into  her  family.  She  trusts  you,  then.  Trust  her,  until  she 
gives  you  very  plain  proof  that  she  does  not  deserve  your  trust. 

For  the  first  month,  at  least,  make  up  your  mind  to  look  on 
the  bright  side  of  everything,  instead  of  asking  yourself  every 
hour,  "I  wonder  if  I  can  stay?"  Triat  same  "wondering"  un- 
settles more  maids  and  prejudices  more  mistresses'  minds  against 
well-meaning  domestics  than  any  other  one  thing.  Make  allow- 
ances for  your  employer's  awkward  ways  of  giving  orders;  for 
her  little  "tempers,"  that  may  be  awkwardness,  too,  and  a  sort  of. 
bashfulness  you  do  not  understand,  but  which  is  not  uncommon. 
More  than  one  well-educated,  refined  woman  has  confessed  to 
me  that  she  was  "awfully  afraid  of  every  new  maid."  Some  of 
us  have  reason  to  be.  Bear  in  mind,  if  your  new  "lady"  seems 
stiff,  and,  maybe,  distrustful  of  you,  that  she  may  have  had  ugly 
experiences  with  some  maid  who  went  before  you,  one  of  the 
maids  "who  spoil  places  for  other  girls." 

I  wish  you  could  make  a  resolution — and  keep  it — not  to  dis- 
cuss the  mistresses  you  have  had,  and  especially  the  mistress  you 
have  now,  with  other  maids,  in  and  out  of  the  house  which  is 
your  present  home.  I  am  sorry  to  be  obliged  to  say  that  the 
practice  of  talking  of  the  hardships  of  her  place  is  our  maid's  most 
common  and  incorrigible  habit.  So  common  is  it  that  I  have  won- 
dered sometimes  if  it  were  not  considered  a  part  of  the  duty  she 
owes  to  herself  and  her  companions  who  are  making  their  living 
in  the  same  way  as  herself.  If  you  could  once  determine  that  your 
employer  is  your  friend,  that  her  interests  are  yours,  and  that  you 
will  make  your  "place"  into  a  real  home,  where  you  may  spend 
years,  perhaps  the  rest  of  your  life — you  would  not  be  tempted  to 
magnify  the  work  you  have  to  do,  the  things  you  have  to  put 
up  with — the  thousand  and  one  complaints  that  form  so  large  a 
part  of  the  talk  "downstairs."  If  you  are  so  unfortunate  as  to 
take  service  with  a  bad-tempered,  bad-mannered,  bad-hearted 
woman,  whose  only  reason  for  thinking  herself  better  than  you  is 


298  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

that  she  has  more  money,  quietly  leave  when  your  month  is  up. 
That  is  the  only  dignified  thing  to  do.  Don't  spoil  your  temper  by 
fighting  her,  and  waste  your  breath  and  time  by  gossiping  about 
her  to  your  acquaintances. 

If,  on  the  other  hand,  you  have  an  employer  who  honestly  tries 
to  treat  you  well ;  who  likes  you  and  praises  your  work,  pays  your 
wages  regularly,  is  kind  to  you  in  sickness,  pleasant  in  speech 
and  willing  to  grant  you  every  reasonable  indulgence — don't  be 
afraid  to  say  that  she  is  all  this,  and  that  you  are  comfortable  and 
contented  in  your  present  position.  I  know  many  such  mistresses. 
I  wish  I  could  add  that  they  often  have  justice  done  them 
behind  their  backs  by  maids  to  whom  they  (the  mistresses)  are 
•so  attached  that  they  will  not  allow  their  dearest  friends  to  find 
fault  with  them. 

It  is  perfectly  natural  that  you  should  side  with  those  of  your 
own  class  and  business  when  a  question  of  ill-usage  comes  up.  If 
you  know  of  a  maid  whose  wages  are  not  paid,  who  is  scolded 
unjustly,  badly  fed  and  made  to  work  beyond  her  strength,  you 
are  right  to  sympathize  with  her.  It  would  also  be  right  to  de- 
spise her  if  she  did  not  throw  up  her  place  and  look  for  a  better. 
It  is  still  more  just  to  despise  one  who  has  none  of  these  things 
to  complain  of,  and  has  no  intention  of  making  a  change,  yet 
speaks  of  her  employer  as  a  cruel  mistress,  and  does  all  she  can  to 
cast  discredit  upon  the  family.  As  a  sensible  girl  you  ought  to 
know  that,  in  this  country,  nobody  need  keep  such  a  place  as  she 
makes  out  hers  to  be — and  no  self-respecting  person  would  keep  it. 

Try,  then,  to  make  the  best  of  your  place,  and  the  best  of  your- 
self while  you  are  in  it.  Earn  your  wages  fairly  and  honestly. 
There  is  no  better  business  for  a  woman  in  America  than  domes- 
tic service,  if  you  and  others  like  you  would  combine  to  keep 
places  so  long  as  to  make  yourselves  a  part  of  the  household,  and 
so  nearly  indispensable  that  not  a  member  of  the  family  could  do 
without  you.  Frequent  changing  is  an  expensive  matter.  It  is  the 
maid  who  holds  one  position  for  years  who  is  well-dressed,  re- 
spected and  beloved  by  her  employers,  and  who  rolls  up  a  snug 
account  in  the  savings-bank  against  marriage  or  a  rainy  day. 

(Sometimes  they  mean  the  same  thing!) 


FAMILIAR   TALK  299 

Never  lose  sight  of  the  truth  that  you  are  as  respectable  in  your 
position  as  the  president's  wife  in  hers,  while  you  perform  the 
duties  of  that  position  soberly,  honestly  and  in  the  fear  of  God — 
so  much  more  respectable  in  your  safe,  honorable  home  shelter 
than  the  flashy,  fast  shop-girl  and  unhealthy,  underfed  and  over- 
dressed factory  girl  in  hers,  that  we,  who  are  sincerely  interested 
in  you,  can  not  but  wonder  that  every  clear-headed,  modest  girl 
does  not  see  this. 

As  a  last  word :  Don't  keep  overstrict  account  of  "work  you 
were  not  engaged  to  do."  I  know  of  no  business  in  the  world 
in  which  a  faithful,  conscientious  worker  does  not  do  much  for 
which  he  is  not  paid — at  least,  not  paid  in  money.  Dozens  of  un- 
foreseen tasks,  big  and  little,  are  coming  up,  all  the  time,  in  every 
trade  and  profession,  and  for  everybody  from  the  president  down 
to  a  peanut  peddler.  The  blessed  Book  we  spoke  of  just  now  com- 
mands us  to  do  whatever  is  laid  to  our  hand,  "as  unto  the  Lord, 
and  not  unto  men."  One  and  all,  we  should  find  delight  in  these 
extra  labors  if  we  could,  in  our  hearts,  determine  to  do  them  "as 
unto  the  dear  Lord,"  whose  mercies  to  .us  are  past  counting.  Do 
what  you  are  "engaged"  to  do,  as  unto  the  employer  whose  wages 
you  receive,  and  offer  the  "extras"  as  a  free-will  offering  to  your 
Heavenly  Father. 

"Bear  ye  one  another's  burdens,  and  so  fulfil  the  law  of  Christ." 

Read  and  obey  the  text  in  this  spirit,  and  that  "so"  becomes  the 
most  important  word  in  this,  or  in  any  language. 


DINNER 

THIS,  the  most  important  meal  of  the  day,  is  attended  with  a 
certain  degree  of  ceremony  in  the  most  modest  household.  Break- 
fast may  be  hurried  over  in  haste  that  is  not  unseemly  when  one 
considers  that  the  day's  work  is  all  ahead  of  the  family,  and 
luncheon  may  dwindle  down  to  a  "cold  bite"  eaten  standing.  Ev- 
erybody must  dine,  and  dining  is  always  "business."  A  dinner 
party  is  the  most  serious  of  social  functions,  and  even  a  family 
dinner  follows  a  prescribed  order.  There  must  be  a  beginning,  a 
middle  and  an  end.  Plates  must  be  changed,  for  even  in  the  back- 
woods, meat  and  pudding  are  not  set  on  the  table  at  the  same  time. 

This  is  as  it  should  be.    If  we  would  have 

"Good  digestion  wait  on  appetite,  and  health  on  both" 
we  must  bring  to  the  discussion  of  the  heavier  nourishment  set 
before  us  orderliness,  leisure  and  tempers  free  from  annoying 
discomforts.  Magnificence  is  within  the  reach  of  a  few ;  modest 
elegance  is  attainable  by  many ;  cleanliness  and  good  manners  are 
free  to  the  humblest  housemother  and  her  brood. 

So  much  for  a  general  view 'of  the  wide  field  indicated  by  the 
word  set  at  the  head  of  this  chapter.  Before  entering  upon  a  dis- 
cussion of  the  dishes  which  belong  to  this  section  of  our  book,  I 
would  lay  stress  upon  a  cardinal  duty  connected  with  dinner- 
eating — a  duty  the  neglect  of  which  is  a  proverbial  national  dis- 
grace. 

It  is  a  physical  impossibility  to  eat  properly — and  to  digest  with 
any  prospect  of  healthful  assimilation — a  breakfast  of  coffee, 
steak,  hot  rolls  and  fried  potatoes,  in  five  minutes,  or  in  fifteen. 
Yet  this  is  what  the  commuter,  the  clerk,  the  collegian — and  a 
host  of  other  men  (including  an  occasional  capitalist)  try  to  do 
six  days  in  the  week.  They  eat,  as  they  live,  on  the  jump.  When 

300 


A    CHRISTMAS    TABLE    DECORATED    WITH     HOLLY 


AN   AUTUMN  DINNER  TABLE  DECORATED  WITH  VINES 


A    TABLE    DECORATED    WITH    CHRYSANTHEMUMS    AND    PALMS 


DINNER  301 

an  especially  audacious  jump  lands  them  in  the  grave,  intelligent 
scientists  affect  to  wonder  with  the  rest  of  mankind  at  the  un- 
timely taking-off. 

Big  mouthfuls  and  bolting  are  alike  part  of  the  national  trick 
advertised  in  dead  earnest,  not  satirized,  by  the  raucous  shout  of 
the  brakeman  at  the  half-way  house — "Five  minutes  for  refresh- 
ments!" 

Mr.  Gladstone  did  not  consider  it  undignified  to  give,  as  one 
secret  of  the  sanity  of  body  and  mind  prolonged  through  four- 
score years,  his  habit  of  chewing  twenty  times  upon  every  morsel 
of  meat  taken  into  his  mouth.  The  family  physician  who  at- 
tended one  of  our  great  men — lately  deceased — in  his  awfully 
brief  final  illness,  said  frankly  that  certain  sharp  attacks  that  had 
afflicted  the  statesman  for  several  months  before  the  cruel  climax 
came,  were  caused  by  the  habit  of  eating  hurriedly  such  luncheons 
as  he  could  snatch  in  the  intervals  of  business.  If  the  truth  were 
told  as  bravely  in  thousands  of  other  "mysterious  visitations," 
business  men  would  be  startled  and  enlightened — if  not  cured — of 
like  practices. 

Dinner — the  evening  dinner  in  particular — gives  the  driven 
man  a  chance  for  his  life.  He  sins  against  light  and  opportunity 
when  he  carries  the  bolting  habit  to  the  third  meal.  It  may  be 
vulgar  to  talk  of  chewing.  Our  very  babies  are  taught  to  say 
''masticate,"  instead.  It  is  more  vulgar  not  to  do  the  thing  itself. 

The  cool  indifference  with  which  we  admit  the  humiliating  truth 
that  our  national  digestion  is  chronically  out  of  order,  is  more 
culpable  even  than  the  shiftless  amiability  with  which  we  condone 
municipal  and  corporation  murders.  The  individual  citizen  may 
well  draw  back  from  the  task  of  fighting  boards  and  millions. 
His  digestive  apparatus  is  his  own,  subject  to  no  lien  or  disability 
except  such  as  sloth  and  carelessness  put  upon  it. 

If  there  be  a  self-evident  fact  in  everyday  hygiene  it  is  that 
food  swallowed  without  chewing,  clogs  and  irritates  the  stomach. 
No  other  health  law  is  so  shamelessly  and  constantly  transgressed 
by  the  human  animal  whose  habitat  is  the  United  States  of  Amer- 
ica. The  most  stupid  lout  of  a  hostler  knows  that  a  horse  must 
have  time  for  chewing  his  oats,  or  he  will  go  hungry ;  the  scullion 


302  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

will  tell  you  that,  while  chickens  bolt  whole  corn  and  gobble  down 
worms,  the  gizzard  stands  sentinel  over  the  stomach,  doing  thor- 
oughly the  part  of  grinders  and  incisors.  The  cow  sets  us  the  best 
example  of  all  our  sensible  dumb  teachers.  The  wondrous-wise 
air  with  which  she  munches  cud  by  the  hour  is  a  proverb  among 
sages.  The  so-called  nobler  part  of  creation  is  not  ashamed  to 
seek  in  the  pepsin,  which  is  a  memorial  to  her  wisdom,  a  remedy 
for  the  ills  brought  upon  himself  by  obstinate  disregard  of  the 
duty  her  example  enforces. 

It  is  not  a  nice  thing  to  talk  or  write  of,  as  I  have  admitted.  And 
this  is  not  because  the  act  of  mastication  is  unseemly.  The  meas- 
ured movement  of  the  jaws  in  the  decorous  disposition  of  whatever 
is  committed  to  them  is  no  more  grotesque  than  the  "winking  as 
usual,"  enjoined  by  the  photographer.  This  is  emphatically  true 
when  food  is  cut  small  before  it  is  eaten. 

The  stomach  is  long-suffering  and  kind,  but  not  omnipotent. 
The  salivary  glands  are  her  natural  and  most  efficient  allies.  The 
"bolter"  cuts  off  supplies  from  this  source.  The  chunks  of  solid 
matter,  washed  down  with  scalding  liquid  or  iced  water,  are  more 
than  the  other  gastric  juices  can  manage.  The  result  is  as  sure 
as  the  addition  of  two  and  two,  followed  by  the  subtraction  of 
four. 

A  judicious  mother  who  has  made  physiology  a  study  for  her 
children's  sake,,  teaches  her  little  ones  to  chew  the  well-cooked 
cereals  that  form  the  staple  of  their  breakfast.  Furthermore,  she 
teaches  that  it  is  indecent  to  swallow  anything  except  liquids  with- 
out chewing  it.  The  rule  is  not  arbitrary.  Each  child  compre- 
hends the  office  of  the  saliva,  that  the  motion  of  chewing  excites  it, 
and  that  to  take  crude  lumps  of  anything  into  the  stomach  is  ab- 
solutely wrong. 

In  the  chance  that  other  mothers  may  imitate  her  example  lies 
the  only  hope  of  the  American  stomach.  The  adult  bolter  is 
joined  to  his  evil  practice.  He  is  feeding  with  egg-coal  an  engine 
that  was  built  to  be  run  with  pea  coal,  adding  to  the  mischief  done 
the  delicate  machinery  the  outrage  of  chunking  in  and  packing 
down  the  fuel. 


SOUPS 


It  is  a  progressive  age  and  the  average  American  house- 
wife is  slowly  coming  to  some  appreciation  of  the  nutritive  value 
of  soups  as  an  article  of  daily  food.  As  a  rule  of  wide  application, 
she  does  not  yet  credit  how  easy  it  is  to  prepare  them.  Some  one 
says  that  the  motto  for  the  would-be  soup-maker  should  be, 
"strong  stock  and  no  grease."  What  might  be  a  good  soup  is  un- 
palatable if  globules  of  grease  float  on  the  surface,  and  it  takes 
a  hungry  man,  without  a  fastidious  taste,  to  enjoy  it  under  these 
circumstances.  See  to  it  then  that  all  meat-stocks  are  perfectly 
skimmed  when  very  cold,  that  every  vestige  of  fat  may  be  re- 
moved. 

A  good  soup  stock 

Four  pounds  of  beef  marrow  bones,  well  cracked ;  one  pound 
of  coarse  lean  beef  chopped  as  for  beef-tea,  and  the  same  of  lean 
veal ;  one  large  onion,  one  carrot,  one  turnip,  six  refuse  stalks  of 
celery,  a  cabbage  leaf;  seven  quarts  of  cold  water;  prepare  and 
salt  to  taste. 

Put  the  meat  and  vegetables,  the  latter  cut  up  small,  into  a 
large  pot,  cover  with  the  water  and  set  at  the  side  of  the  range 
where  it  will  not  reach  the  scalding  point  under  an  hour.  Keep 
closely  covered  and  let  it  simmer,  always  scalding  hot,  never  boil- 
ing hard,  for  six  hours.  Remove  from  the  fire,  season  and  set  in  a 
cool  place  until  next  day.  Remove  the  fat,  strain  out  bones  and 
vegetables,  pressing  hard  to  extract  all  the  nourishment  and  set 
away  in  the  refrigerator  until  needed. 

At  least  one  dozen  varieties  of  soups  and  broths  can  be  founded 
upon  this  stock. 

303 


304  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

White  stock 

Put  over  the  fire  two  pounds  of  the  cheaper  part  of  veal,  cut 
into  small  pieces,  or  a  well-cracked  knuckle  of  veal,  with  three 
quarts  of  cold  water,  a  sliced  onion,  a  bay-leaf  and  a  couple  of 
stalks  of  celery  cut  into  pieces.  Let  it  come  to  a  boil  slowly,  and 
simmer  for  five  or  six  hours.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  set 
aside  to  get  cold.  Remove  the  fat,  take  out  the  bones  and  you  will 
have  a  thick  jelly.  This  can  be  heated,  skimmed  and,  if  desired, 
strained  before  it  is  used.  It  will  be  a  strong  and  nutritious  stock. 

"Left-over"  stock 

Have  a  crock  in  your  refrigerator  expressly  for  this.  Collect 
for  it  the  bones  of  cooked  meats  from  which  the  meat  has  been 
carved ;  the  carcasses  of  poultry,  bits  of  gristly  roasts  and  steaks, 
cold  vegetables,  even  a  baked  apple  now  and  then.  Twice  a  week, 
put  all-,  cracking  the  bones  well,  into  the  stock-pot;  cover  deep 
with  cold  water  and  cook  slowly  until  the  liquid  is  reduced  to  half 
the  original  quantity.  Season  to  taste,  and  strain,  rubbing  all 
through  the  colander  that  will  pass. 

By  addition  of  barley,  rice,  tomatoes  or,  in  fact,  almost  any 
vegetable  or  cereal,  you  may  make  excellent  broths  from  this 
compound  of  "unconsidered  trifles." 

Mock  turtle  soup 

Boil  a  calf's  head  until  the  meat  leaves  the  bones.  Leave  it  in 
the  seasoned  soup  until  next  day,  then  take  it  out,  scrape  off  the 
fat  and  remove  the  bones.  Put  the  jellied  stock  over  the  fire 
with  the  bones,  the  ears,  chopped,  one  grated  carrot,  one  sliced 
onion,  a  bunch  of  soup  herbs,  a  teaspoonful  of  allspice,  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  paprika  and  salt  to  taste.  Boil  for  one  hour.  Take 
from  the  fire,  strain,  thicken  with  two  tablespoon fuls  of  butter 
rolled  in  as  much  browned  flour,  add  two  teaspoonfuls  of  kitchen 
bouquet,  and,  when  the  soup  is  thickened,  drop  in  the  tongue  and 
parts  of  the  cheek  cut  into  dice.  Add  a  ^ill  of  sherry  and  the  iuice 
of  a  lemon  and  pour  upon  forcemeat  balls  in  a  hot  tureen.  Make 


SOUPS  305 

the  forcemeat  balls  by  rubbing  the  brains  to  a  paste  with  the  yolk 
of  a  hard-boiled  egg,  a  little  browned  flour  and  the  yolk  of  a  raw 
egg.  Roll  them  in  brown  flour  and  let  them  stand  in  a  quick  oven 
until  lightly  crusted  over. 

Veal  and  tapioca  soup 

Crack  a  knuckle  of  veal  into  six  pieces  and  put  over  the  fire 
with  a  cracked  ham  bone,  if  you  have  it.  If  not,  use  a  half-pound 
of  lean  salt  pork,  chopped,  or  the  soaked  rind  of  salt  pork  or 
corned  ham.  Add  a  few  stalks  of  celery,  chopped.  Cover  with 
cold  water,  adding  a  quart  for  every  pound  of  meat  and  bones. 
Cover,  and  bring  slowly  to  the  boil.  Simmer  then  for  five  hours, 
or  until  the  liquor  is  reduced  to  one-half  the  original  quantity. 
Season  with  pepper,  salt  and  onion  juice  and  set  away  until  next 
day,  when  remove  the  fat. 

You  have  now  a  thick  jelly.  Set  over  the  fire  to  melt.  When 
you  can  pour  it  easily,  strain  out  the  bones  and  scraps  of  meat. 
Put  half  a  cupful  of  tapioca  to  soak  in  a  cupful  of  cold  water  for 
two  hours.  Measure  a  quart  of  your  veal  stock  and  put  over  the 
fire  to  heat.  When  the  boil  is  reached,  add  the  taoioca,  a  ?cant 
tablespoonful  of  kitchen  bouquet,  with  a  tablespoonful  of  finely 
minced  parsley  and  cook  fifteen  minutes  longer,  boiling  briskly. 

Veal  and  sa^o  broth 

Make  stock  as  directed  in  last  recipe,  adding,  when  it  has  been 
skimmed  and  strained,  half  a  cupful  of  pearl  sago,  previously 
soaked  for  three  hours  in  warm  water.  Simmer  for  half  an  hour. 
Have  ready  in  a  saucepan  a  cupful  of  hot  milk,  into  which  a  bit  of 
soda  has  been  dropped ;  stir  into  it  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  rolled 
in  half  as  much  flour,  and  when  it  has  thickened,  turn  into  the 
sago  broth  two  minutes  before  removing  it  from  the  fire. 

Veal  and  rice  broth 

To  a  quart  of  your  veal  stock  add  half  a  cupful  of  washed  and 
soaked  rice;  cook  for  twenty  minutes,  fast,  and  mix  with  hot 
20 


3o6  MARION   HARLAND'S   COOK   BOOK 

milk,  thickened  as  directed  in  last  recipe.    Cook  three  minutes  and 
serve. 

Ox-tail  soup 

Cut  a  cleaned  ox-tail  at  each  joint  and  fry  five  minutes  in  butter 
or  good  dripping.  Take  out  the  meat  and  put  into  a  warmed  soup- 
kettle  while  you  fry  a  sliced  onion  in  the  dripping  left  in  the  fry- 
ing-pan. Turn  this,  with  the  fat,  upon  the  pieces  of  ox-tail,  rinse 
out  the  frying-pan  with  hot  water  and  add  this  to  the  soup-kettle. 
Now  cover  with  two  quarts  of  cold  water;  slice  a  carrot  thin, 
mince  four  stalks  of  celery  and  add  these  to  the  water.  Cover 
closely  and  simmer  for  five  hours.  Season  to  taste  and  set  aside 
until  next  day,  remove  the  fat  and  strain  the  liquor  from  meat 
and  vegetables.  Pick  out  the  best  joints  and  return  to  the  soup. 
Heat  to  a  fast  boil,  skim,  add  kitchen  bouquet  to  taste,  and  serve. 
There  should  be  two  or  three  joints  in  each  portion.  Some  cooks 
slice  two  or  three  very  small  carrots,  parboil  them  and  put  into  the 
strained  liquor  with  the  joints  before  giving  the  last  boil. 

Clear  brown  soup 

After  making,  cooling  and  skimming  your  stock  as  directed  in 
the  beginning  of  this  chapter,  measure  out  a  quart ;  put  over  the 
fire  and  when  lukewarm  stir  in  the  white  of  a  raw  egg.  Bring 
quickly  to  a  boil,  stirring  all  the  time.  As  soon  as  it  bubbles,  take 
from  the  fire,  pour  in  a  little  very  cold  water  and  let  it  stand  for 
three  minutes.  Then  pour  slowly  off  the  dregs  through  a  flannel 
bag,  or  a  double  cloth.  Let  it  drip  as  you  would  jelly.  When 
all  has  run  through,  return  to  the  fire  with  a  little  soaked  tapioca, 
or  a  handful  of  "manestra,"  such  as  comes  in  shapes  for  soups ; 
simmer  five  minutes,  color  with  kitchen  bouquet,  or  with  caramel, 
and  serve. 

Clear  soup  with  poached  eggs 

Make  as  directed  above,  but  without  tapioca  or  other  cereal. 
Have  ready  as  many  neatly  poached  eggs  as  there  will  be  people 
at  table,  and  when  the  hot  soup  is  in  the  tureen  slip  these  care- 
fully into  it. 


SOUPS  307 

Caramel  for  coloring  soups 

Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  into  a  small  tin  cup  and  let  it 
melt,  then  bubble  over  the  fire.  When  you  have  a  seething  brown 
(not  burnt)  mass,  pour  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  boiling  water 
and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved. 

Put  in  enough  to  color  your  clear  soup,  but  not  enough  to  make 
it  sweet. 

Clear  soup  a  la  royale 

To  cleared  soup  made  according  to  directions  given  for  making 
and  clearing  stock,  add  minute  squares  of  paste  made  thus : 

Heat  half  a  cupful  of  milk  in  a  saucepan  with  a  bit  of  soda.  In 
a  frying-pan  cook  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  stir  into  it  two  of 
flour.  Turn  the  milk  gradually  upon  this,  and,  when  well  incor- 
porated, a  scant  half-cupful  of  soup  stock.  In  a  bowl  have  ready 
two  whipped  eggs  and  pour  upon  them,  stirring  well,  the  hot  mix- 
ture. Return  to  the  fire,  stir  to  a  thick  paste  and  pour  upon  a  but- 
tered platter  to  cool.  Set  on  ice  to  harden  for  at  least  six  hours 
before  cutting  into  tiny  blocks.  The  soup  must  not  boil  after  they 
go  in. 

Glasgow  broth 

One  quart  of  strong  mutton  stock,  from  which  every  particle  of 
fat  has  been  removed.  The  liquor  in  which  a  leg  of  mutton  has 
been  boiled  will  do  well  for  this  purpose.  Boil  it  down  for  an 
hour  before  making  the  broth,  as  it  should  be  strong. 

One  cupful  of  barley  that  has  been  soaked  in  tepid  water  for 
three  hours.  One  large  carrot,  one  turnip,  two  onions,  four  stalks 
of  celery,  half  a  cupful  of  green  peas  and  the  same  of  string-beans, 
parsley  and  four  or  five  leek  tops. 

Cut  the  vegetables  up  small  and  parboil  them  for  ten  min- 
utes. Drain  and  put  over  the  fire  in  the  stock.  Simmer  slowly 
for  three  hours.  Have  ready  a  good  white  roux  made  by  heating 
a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  pan  and  stirring  into  it  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour.  Add  a  few  spoonfuls  of  the  soup  to  thin  it, 
and  stir  into  the  broth.  Boil  one  minute  and  serve. 


308  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

This  recipe,  given  to  me  in  rhymes  a  century  old  by  a  dis- 
tinguished professor  in  the  University  of  Glasgow,  is  the  genuine 
Scotch  broth  dear  to  the  Scottish  heart  and  stomach.  It  is  no- 
where as  delicious  as  in  the  Highlands,  but  it  is  good  everywhere. 

Mulligatawney  soup 

(An  East  Indian  recipe.) 

Joint  a  large  fowl,  as  for  fricassee,  and  cut  into  small  pieces 
a  pound  of  lean  veal.  Slice  two  onions  and  fry  them  in  butter ; 
pare,  quarter  and  core  two  sour  apples.  Put  all  these  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  six  quarts  of  cold  water.  Add  four  cloves  and  four  pep- 
per corns,  cover  closely  and  let  it  simmer  until  the  fowl  is  tender. 
Remove  it  and  cut  the  meat  from  the  bones  into  small  pieces. 
Return  the  bones  to  the  kettle  and  add  one  level  tablespoonful  of 
curry  powder,  one  level  teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt  and  sugar  mixed 
to  a  smooth  paste  with  a  little  water. 

Simmer  another  hour,  or  until  reduced  one-half,  strain  the  soup, 
let  it  stand  all  night  and  remove  the  fat.  Put  it  on  to  boil  again, 
add  the  pieces  of  fowl  and  one  cupful  of  boiled  rice.  This  will 
make  a  large  quantity  of  soup.  Send  around  with  it  bananas, 
chilled  by  burying  them  in  ice,  for  those  who  relish  this  accom- 
paniment to  curry  dishes. 

Chicken  cream  soup  (No.  1) 

Cut  up  a  large  fowl  and  beat  with  a  mallet  to  crack  the 
bones ;  pour  in  five  quarts  of  cold  water,  cover  closely  and  sim- 
mer for  four  hours  more,  until  the  chicken  is  perfectly  tender. 
Take  the  meat  off  the  bones,  take  out  the  skin.  Return  the  soup 
to  the  fire  with  a  part  of  the  meat  chopped  fine,  salt,  pepper,  a 
little  boiled  rice  and  butter  rolled  in  flour.  Just  before  taking 
from  the  fire  add  a  small  teacupful  of  cream  heated  with  a  pinch 
of  soda ;  add  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley  and  boil  for  one 
minute. 

You  may  further  enrich  this  excellent  soup  by  beating  up  two 
eggs  and  stirring  them  into  it  just  before  taking  from  the  fire. 


SOUPS  309 

A  still  better  way  is  to  pour  a  little  of  the  soup  upon  the  eggs  to 
avoid  curdling,  then  add  to  the  rest. 


Chicken  cream  soup  (No.  2) 

(An  English  recipe) 

One  cupful  of  cold  roast  chicken,  chopped  as  fine  as  powder ;  a 
pint  of  strong  chicken  broth ;  a  cupful  of  sweet  cream ;  half  a  cup- 
ful of  bread  or  cracker-crumbs ;  'three  yolks  of  eggs ;  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt ;  one-half  teaspoonful  of  pepper. 

Soak  the  crumbs  in  a  little  of  the  cream.  Bring  the  broth  to 
boiling  point  and  add  the  meat.  Break  the  eggs,  separating  the 
yolks  and  whites.  Drop  the  yolks  carefully  into  boiling  water 
and  boil  hard ;  then  rub  to  a  powder  and  add  to  the  soup  with  the 
cream  and  the  seasoning.  Simmer  ten  minutes  and  serve  hot. 

Beef  bouillon 

Put  together  in  an  agate-lined  saucepan  two  pounds  of  lean 
beef,  minced ;  one-half  pound  of  lean  veal,  also  minced,  and  two 
pounds,  each,  of  beef  and  veal  bones,  well  cracked.  Cover  deep 
with  cold  water  and  bring  slowly  to  a  boil,  then  sim- 
mer for  four  hours.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  kitchen  bouquet,  then  remove  from 
the  fire.  When  very  cold  and  like  a  jelly,  skim  all  fat  from  the 
surface  of  the  soup  and  heat  to  enable  you  to  strain  out  the  bones 
and  meat.  Return  to  the  fire,  drop  in  the  white  of  an  egg  and  a 
crushed  egg-shell,  bring  to  a  boil,  drop  in  a  bit  of  ice  to  check 
ebullition  and,  five  minutes  later,  pour  carefully,  not  to  disturb 
the  dregs,  through  a  colander  lined  with  white  flannel.  You 
may  now  heat  it  to  scalding,  add  a  glass  of  sherry  and  eat  it  hot, 
or  set  on  ice  when  cold  until  you  can  have  it  as  "iced-bouillon." 
It  is  good  in  either  way. 


310  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Bouillon  a  la  russe 

Make  as  just  directed  and  serve  in  cups,  laying  a  delicately 
poached  egg  upon  the  surface  of  the  steaming  liquid. 

Chicken  bouillon  (No.  1) 

Cut  a  large  fowl  into  pieces;  put  into  a  porcelain-lined  kettle 
and  cover  with  cold  water.  Set  at  the  side  of  the  range  and  sim- 
mer for  four  hours.  Season  with  celery  salt,  pepper  and  onion 
juice,  and  set  away  to  cool.  When  cold  skim  off  the  fat  and  strain 
out  the  bones  and  meat.  Return  to  the  fire,  and  when  hot,  add  a 
quarter  of  a  box  of  gelatine  that  has  soaked  for  an  hour  in  a  gill 
of  water.  When  the  gelatine  is  dissolved,  take  the  soup  from  the 
fire,  strain  through  a  cheese-cloth  bag,  and  serve  it  when  you 
have  reheated  it,  or  set  aside  to  cool,  afterward  keeping  it  in  ice, 
when  you  may  enjoy  delicious  "iced  and  jellied  chicken  bouillon." 

Chicken  bouillon  (No.  2) 

Cut  a  four-pound  fowl  into  pieces  and  put  it  over  the  fire  with 
four  quarts  of  cold  water.  Bring  very  slowly  to  the  boiling  point, 
and  simmer  gently  for  three  hours,  or  until  the  meat  is  so  tender 
that  it  slips  from  the  bones.  Add  half  of  a  sliced  onion  and  three 
stalks  of  celery,  and  simmer  for  an  hour  longer.  Turn  into  a 
bowl  and  set  in  a  cold  place  for  some  hours.  When  thoroughly 
chilled  remove  the  fat  from  the  surface  of  the  soup,  strain  out  the 
bones  and  skim.  If  the  liquor  is  jellied  after  skimming  it,  set  it 
on  the  fire  long  enough  to  melt  the  jelly  from  the  bones.  Strain 
through  coarse  muslin,  letting  it  drip  through,  but  not  squeezing 
the  bag.  Put  over  the  fire  and,  when  lukewarm,  throw  in  the  un- 
beaten white  and  broken  shell  of  an  egg ;  stir  to  a  quick  boil  and 
again  strain  through  muslin  after  seasoning  to  taste. 

Gumbo  (No.  1) 

(A  Creole  recipe) 

Cut  a  fowl  at  every  joint  and  fry  for  five  minutes  in  good  drip- 
ping or  in  butter.  Remove  the  meat  and  put  into  a  soup  kettle. 


SOUPS  311 

Cook  two  sliced  onions  in  the  fat  left  in  the  frying-pan.  Put  into 
the  kettle  with  the  chicken  half  a  pound  of  lean  salt  pork,  or 
corned  ham,  cut  into  small  bits,  and  the  fried  onions.  Add  two 
quarts  of  cold  water,  and  bring-  slowly  to  a  boil,  after  which  you 
should  let  it  simmer  two  hours.  Add,  now,  two  dozen  young  okra 
pods,  half  a  pod  of  green  pepper,  chopped,  and  half  a  can  of  toma- 
toes, or  a  pint  of  fresh,  cut  small,  and  simmer  till  the  chicken  is 
tender.  Remove  the  larger  bones,  add  salt  to  taste,  and  five  min- 
utes before  serving  add  one  pint  of  fine,  sweet  corn  pulp,  scraped 
from  the  cob,  or  one  small  can  of  canned  corn,  or  one  pint  of 
oysters.  Stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  boil  a 
few  minutes  and  serve.  If  fresh  okra  can  not  be  obtained  use 
the  canned. 

Gumbo  (No.  2) 

This  delicious  soup  may  be  made  with  oysters,  or  shrimps,  or 
chicken.  Brown  one  small  onion  in  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of 
butter.  Add  one  quart  of  sliced  okra,  and  fry  it  well,  stirring  all 
the  time  to  prevent  burning.  Now  add  half  a  gallon  of  hot  water 
and  let  it  cook  until  simmered  down  to  one  quart.  Add  three  ripe 
tomatoes  and  the  chicken,  or  oysters,  or  shrimps.  If  the  chicken 
is  used  it  must  have  been  previously  stewed  tender,  in  which  case 
use  the  broth  instead  of  the  hot  water.  Season  to  taste  with  salt 
and  cayenne,  and  serve  with  a  tablespoonful  of  rice  for  each  soup- 
plate. 

Julienne  soup 

Cut  into  thin  strips,  and  these  into  inch  lengths,  two  carrots, 
one-half  of  a  white  turnip,  two  or  three  celery  stalks,  two  small 
onions,  a  leaf  or  two  of  young  cabbage,  and  a  good  handful  of 
string  beans.  Put  all  together,  with  half  a  cupful  of  green  peas, 
into  cold  salted  water,  and  leave  for  half  an  hour.  Turn,  then, 
into  your  soup  kettle  with  sufficient  water  to  cover,  and  cook  for 
fifteen  minutes.  Drain  off  the  water,  cover  the  vegetables  with  a 
quart  of  good  soup  stock  or  consomme,  and  cook  gently  for  twen- 
ty-five minutes  longer.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  chopped 


312  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

parsley  and  kitchen  bouquet  to  taste,  and  boil  up  once  before 
serving.  You  may  add  tomatoes  or  not,  as  you  like. 
The  stock  should  be  strong. 

French  onion  soup 

To  a  quart  of  good  stock  allow  six  small  onions  that  have  been 
parboiled  for  ten  minutes,  and  a  cupful  of  fine,  dry  bread-crumbs. 
Let  them  simmer  together  for  half  an  hour ;  rub  the  soup  through 
a  colander,  pressing  through  as  much  of  the  onion  and  bread  as 
possible.  Put  into  a  saucepan,  rub  one  tablespoonful  of  butter 
and  two  of  flour  to  a  cream,  and  stir  into  the  hot  mixture  until  it 
thickens.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  one  pint  of  milk 
heated  with  a  tiny  bit  of  soda,  boil  up,  and  serve. 

A  homely,  but  a  savory  soup. 

White  barley  soup 

Soak  a  cupful  of  barley  for  several  hours  in  enough  water  to 
cover  it ;  then  boil  in  a  quart  of  veal  stock  until  tender  and  clear. 
Season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  a  tablespoonful  of 
minced  parsley,  and  with  celery  salt  and  white  pepper  to  taste. 
Thicken  a  pint  of  scalding  milk  with  a  white  roux,  pour  the  hot 
soup  slowly  upon  this  and  serve. 

"Turkey  rack"  soup 

(A  Virginia  recipe) 

Break  the  carcass  of  a  roast  turkey  served  for  yesterday's  din- 
ner into  pieces,  removing  all  the  stuffing ;  cover  with  two  quarts  of 
cold  water  and  boil  three  hours,  covered.  Set  aside  until  cold; 
skim  and  take  out  all  the  bones;  chop  the  meat;  add  to  the 
soup  and  meat  the  stuffing  rubbed  through  a  colander,  a  sliced 
onion  and  a  stalk  of  celery,  cut  very  small.  Simmer  for  an  hour ; 
put  a  cupful  of  milk  over  the  fire,  not  forgetting  a  pinch  of  soda ; 
when  hot,  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  rubbed  into  one  of 
flour ;  mix  with  the  soup,  and  boil  one  minute.  * 


SOUPS  313 

A  white  fowl  soup 

Cut  an  elderly  chicken  up  as  for  fricassee,  severing  every  joint. 
Put  into  the  soup-kettle,  allowing  a  quart  of  water  for  every 
pound.  Add  a  sliced  onion  and  three  celery  stalks.  Set  at  the  side 
of  the  range ;  bring  slowly  to  the  boil.  Cook  until  the  meat  slips 
from  the  bones,  if  it  takes  all  day.  Set  away  with  the  meat  in  it 
until  cold.  Take  off  the  fat.  Warm  sufficiently  to  allow  you  to 
strain  it ;  take  out  the  bones ;  cut  the  white  meat  into  cubes,  and 
keep  hot  over  boiling  water.  Bring  the  soup  to  a  boil,  season 
with  salt  and  white  pepper,  and  throw  into  it,  while  boiling  hard, 
half  a  cupful  of  rice.  Cook  fast  for  twenty-five  minutes,  or  until 
the  rice  is  very  tender.  Have  ready  in  a  saucepan  a  cupful  of  hot 
milk  into  which  you  have  put  a  bit  of  soda ;  stir  in  a  white  roux 
made  by  cooking  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  with  one  of  flour,  and 
add  to  the  soup  with  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  Now, 
put  in  the  meat  cubes,  boil  one  minute  and  serve. 

A  brown  fowl  soup 

Prepare  and  cook  chicken  as  just  directed,  and,  when  you  have 
skimmed  the  soup  and  taken  out  the  bones,  cut  all  the  meat  into 
neat  cubes ;  dry  it  between  two  cloths ;  pepper  and  salt,  then 
dredge  well  with  flour.  Put  into  a  frying-pan  four  taniespoonfuls 
of  the  fat  you  have  taken  from  the  soup  and  when  it  bubbles,  add 
the  pieces  of  chicken  and  toss  them  about  until  well  browned. 
Remove  the  chicken  and  keep  it  hot.  Into  the  fat  left  in  the  pan 
put  one  level  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  stir  until  well  mixed  and 
slightly  browned.  Add  by  degrees  sufficient  soup  to  moisten  to  a 
smooth  gravy,  then  strain  it  into  the  soup.  Season  to  taste,  put 
in  the  chicken  dice,  simmer  five  minutes,  and  serve.  You  may  im- 
prove the  color  by  adding  a  teaspoon ful  of  kitchen  bouquet. 

Beef  juice  for  invalids 

Chop  two  pounds  of  lean  beef  small.  Put  a  layer  of  this  meat 
in  the  bottom  of  a  glass  jar  and  sprinkle  over  it  a  little  salt.  Then 


3H  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

add  another  layer  and  a  little  more  salt,  and  so  on  until  the  meat 
has  been  used.  Set  in  a  kettle.  The  water  in  the  kettle  should  be 
cold  and  be  heated  gradually  to  the  boiling  point,  after  which  it 
should  be  left  to  simmer  for  three  or  four  hours,  or  until  the  meat 
looks  like  bits  of  white  rags  with  the  juice  completely  drawn  out. 
Let  all  get  cold  together,  then  skim,  and  strain  out  the  meat,  press- 
ing it  hard. 

Beef  tea 

Chop  three  pounds  of  lean  beef  fine  and  leave  in  a  quart  of  cold 
water  for  two  hours.  Set  water  and  beef  over  a  slow  fire  in  a 
covered  saucepan  and  simmer  four  hours.  Set  away  all  night 
with  the  meat  in  it.  In  the  morning  remove  every  bit  of  grease, 
and  strain  through  coarse  muslin,  pressing  hard.  Season  with 
pepper  and  salt. 

BISQUES 

THE  name  is  applied  to  a  class  of  soups  thickened  into  closer 
consistency  than  broth  by  the  addition  of  minced  meat  and 
crumbs.  When  well  made,  they  are  popular  at  family  dinners,  and 
some  kinds — such  as  oyster  and  lobster  bisque — are  admirable  at 
dinner  parties. 

Care  must  be  observed  to  keep  the  ingredients  well  together, 
and  to  season  judiciously.  Insipid  panada  is  not  a  bisque.  Still 
less  is  a  "mess"  compounded,  not  wisely,  but  so  well  as  to  remind 
one  of  a  poultice. 

Oyster  bisque 

Drain  the  liquor  from  a  quart  of  oysters  and  make  of  it  a  quart 
of  liquid  by  adding  cold  water.  Into  this  stir  the  oysters,  chopped 
fine,  and  put  all  into  a  porcelain-lined  saucepan  over  the  fire. 
Cook  very  gently  for  twenty  minutes.  Have  heated  a  quart  of 
milk,  in  which  a  pinch  of  soda  has  been  dissolved,  and  half  a  cup- 
ful of  cracker-crumbs,  soaked.  Cook  together  in  a  saucepan  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  two  of  flour.  When  they  are  perfectly 
blended  pour  upon  them  the  quart  of  thickened  boiling  milk  and 


SOUPS  315 

stir  until  as  smooth  and  thick  as  cream.  Turn  into  this  the  oyster 
soup  and  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper.  Slowly  pour  a 
cupful  of  the  soup  upon  the  beaten  yolks  of  1;wo  eggs,  stirring 
constantly.  When  mixed,  return  the  soup  with  the  blended  yolks 
to  the  saucepan,  stir  and  pour  at  once  into  a  heated  tureen. 

Lobster  bisque 

Two  cupfuls  of  lobster  meat,  minced  fine ;  one  quart  of  boiling 
water  and  the  same  of  milk ;  half  a  cupful  of  butter  and  a  cupful  of 
fine  cracker-crumbs ;  paprika  or  cayenne  and  salt  to  taste ;  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour. 

Rub  the  coral  and  a  quarter  of  the  meat  to  a  paste ;  leave  this  in 
enough  boiling  water  to  cover  it  for  half  an  hour.  Then  put  the 
reserved  chopped  lobster  into  a  saucepan,  with  the  cracker-crumbs 
and  half  the  butter ;  stir  in  the  hot  water  and  coral,  etc.,  with  the 
rest  of  the  quart  of  boiling  water.  Cook  gently  half  an  hour  in  a 
double  boiler  after  the  water  in  the  outer  vessel  begins  to  boil 
hard.  Stir  often.  In  another  saucepan  heat  the  milk  (with  a  bit 
of  soda)  and  the  rest  of  the  butter  worked  up  with  the  flour.  Boil 
one  minute.  Turn  the  lobster  into  the  tureen ;  stir  in  the  hot  milk 
and  serve  at  once. 

Crab  bisque 

Is  made  in  the  same  way. 

Clam  bisque 

Thirty  clams;  one  cupful  of  milk  and  half  as  much  cream, 
or  two  cupfuls  of  milk ;  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  one  of 
flour;  three  eggs;  a  tablespoonful  of  onion  juice;  one  cupful  of 
boiling  water ;  a  pinch  of  soda  in  the  milk ;  one  cupful  of  cracker- 
crumbs. 

Chop  the  clams  and  put  over  the  fire  in  the  boiling  water.  Sim- 
mer half  an  hour.  Heat  milk  and  cream  in  another  saucepan  with 
the  soda  and  crumbs.  Stir  in  the  roux,  boil  one  minute  and  pour 
gradually,  beating  all  the  time,  upon  the  yolks,  previously  whipped 
smooth.  Heat  in  a  double  boiler  for  two  minutes,  or  until  the 


3i6  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

water  in  the  outer  vessel  boils  hard,  and  turn  into  the  tureen. 
Season  the  boiling  mince  of  clams  with  salt,  cayenne  and  minced 
parsley,  add  to  the  milk  in  tureen  and  cover  the  surface  with  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  beaten  to  a  standing  froth. 

In  serving,  dip  the  ladle  deep  into  the  bisque,  but  see  that  each 
plate  is  mantled  by  the  meringue. 

Chicken  bisque 

Joint  the  fowl  and  cover  with  cold  water,  a  quart  for  each 
pound.  Put  in  a  large  minced  onion  and  three  stalks  of  celery, 
minced  fine.  Cover  and  cook  slowly  until  you  can  slip  the  flesh 
from  the  bones.  Let  all  get  cold  together;  skim,  take  out  bones 
and  meat,  and  chop  the  latter  fine.  Return  the  soup  to  the  fire 
and  heat  in  another  vessel  a  cupful  of  milk  (dropping  in  a  bit 
of  soda).  Thicken  this  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  rubbed 
into  a  teasponful  of  flour,  and  add  a  tablespoonful  of  minced 
parsley.  When  the  soup  has  reached  a  fast  boil,  stir  into  it  the 
chopped  chicken  with  a  cupful  of  cracker-crumbs  soaked  in  warm 
milk ;  boil  one  minute,  beat  in  the  milk  and  butter  and  pour  out. 

Corn  bisque 

Drain  the  liquor  from  a  can  of  corn.  Chop  the  corn  very  fine, 
put  it  over  the  fire  in  a  quart  of  salted  water  and  simmer  gently 
for  an  hour.  Rub  through  a  colander,  return  to  the  fire  with  the 
water,  add  a  teaspoon ful  of  sugar,  and  when  this  melts,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour  rubbed  into  two  of  butter.  Stir  until  smooth 
and  pour  slowly  upon  a  pint  of  heated  milk.  Season  with  salt  and 
pour  the  soup  gradually  upon  two  beaten  eggs.  Send  immediately 
to  the  table. 

Cheese  bisque 

Into  a  pint  of  milk  put  a  pinch  of  soda,  and  bring  to  the  scald- 
ing point.  To  this  add  a  cupful  of  stock  (chicken  or  mutton  or 
lamb)  in  which  an  onion  has  been  boiled,  and  a  cupful  of  water  in 
which  rice  has  been  cooked  until  you  can  run  it  through  a  strainer. 
Cook  together  in  a  good -sized  saucepan  two  tablespoonfuls  of  but- 


SOUPS  317 

ter  and  two  of  flour.  When  they  are  thoroughly  blended  and  bub- 
ble pour  on  them  the  white  soup  and  stir  until  it  thickens  to  the 
consistency  of  cream.  Now  beat  in  a  half  cupful  of  grated  cheese. 
Have  ready  in  a  bowl  two  well-whipped  eggs,  and  on  these  pour,  a 
little  at  a  time,  a  cupful  of  hot  soup,  beating  steadily  to  prevent 
curdling.  Return  the  cupful  of  soup  wi*h  the  eggs  to  the  soup  on 
the  fire,  beat  for  half  a  minute,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
serve.  Odd,  but  very  good  when  properly  made. 

Salmon  bisque 

Open  a  can  of  salmon  and  turn  out  the  contents  several  hours 
before  making  the  soup.  With  a  silver  fork  pick  the  fish  to 
pieces  and  take  out  all  bits  of  bone  and  skin.  Put  the  fish  into  an 
agate  saucepan,  put  on  it  enough  boiling  water  to  cover  it,  and 
let  it  simmer  gently  for  half  an  hour.  Drain  off  the  water  and 
break  the  fish  to  a  soft  mass. 

Dissolve  a  pinch  of  soda  in  a  pint  of  milk  and  heat  in  a  double 
boiler  with  a  half  cupful  of  cracker-crumbs.  Stir  into  it  a  pint  of 
well-seasoned  veal  stock,  and  thicken  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour  rubbed  into  two  of  butter.  When  thick  and  smooth,  stir  in 
the  minced  fish,  season  with  salt  and  paprika,  and  serve.  This  is 
very  good  when  made  of  boiled  fresh  salmon. 

Bisque  of  halibut  or  cod 

Boil  a  pound  of  firm  fresh  fish  in  two  waters,  and  mince  it  fine, 
freeing  it  from  all  bits  of  skin  or  bone.  Have  ready  a  quart  of 
white  stock,  stir  the  fish  into  it  and  season  with  salt,  pepper  and 
a  spoonful  of  minced  parsley.  Cook  together  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter  and  one  of  flour,  pour  upon  this  a  cupful  of  milk,  stir 
until  it  thickens,  and  put  with  the  fish  and  stock.  Boil  up  once 
and  put  into  the  tureen.  A  half  cupful  of  powdered  cracker- 
crumbs  should  be  added  just  before  the  soup  is  mixed  with  the 
milk, 


318  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Tomato  bisque  (No,  1) 

Two  cupfuls  of  fresh  tomatoes,  chopped  fine ;  one  pint  of  strong 
stock  or  skimmed  gravy;  one  cupful  of  fine  crumbs  soaked  for 
half  an  hour  in  hot  milk;  one  teaspoonful  of  white  sugar;  one 
tablespoonful  of  onion  juice ;  pepper  and  salt  to  taste ;  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  cooked  to  a  roux  with  one  of  flour;  chopped 
parsley;  cook  together  five  minutes,  run  through  a  vegetable 
press,  stir  in  the  stock  and  seasoning,  and  return  to  the  fire. 
Simmer  twenty  minutes  and  add  the  soaked  crumbs  and  parsley ; 
cook  together  five  minutes,  stir  in  as  much  baking-soda  as  will 
lie  upon  a  dime  and  send  in  at  once. 

You  may  use  canned  tomatoes  for  this  recipe  if  you  have  not 
fresh. 

Tomato  bisque  (No.  2) 

Stir  one  quart  can  of  tomatoes  with  a  half-teaspoonful  of  soda 
for  half  an  hour.  Boil  half  a  gallon  of  fresh  milk ;  add  to  it  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  pepper  and  salt.  Mash  the  tomatoes 
through  a  colander  and  stir  them  into  the  boiling  milk ;  add  a  tea- 
cupful  of  rolled  crackers ;  serve  immediately.  If  the  milk  is  put 
into  the  tomatoes  it  will  curdle. 


CREAM   SOUPS 

N.  B. — See  to  it  that  the  milk  of  which  they  are  made  is  fresh, 
and  always  drop  in  it  before  heating  a  pinch  of  baking-soda  to 
avoid  the  danger  of  curdling.  A  curdled  cream  soup  is  a  cul- 
inary solecism,  and  should  never  be  put  into  delicate  stomachs. 
After  the  soup  is  ready  for  the  table  do  not  allow  it  to  stand  on 
the  part  of  the  range  where  it  may  come  to  a  boil. 

Cream  of  spinach  soup 

Wash  a  half  peck  of  spinach  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  a 
scant  quart  of  water.  Boil  until  tender,  then  chop  very,  very  fine, 
and  run  through  a  sieve.  It  should  be  like  a  soft  green  paste. 


SOUPS  319 

Cook  together  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  one  of  butter  and  pour 
upon  them  a  quart  of  hot  milk.  Stir  until  smooth,  add  the  spinach, 
boil  up  once,  season  and  serve. 

Cream  of  beet  soup 

Boil  the  young  beets  in  salted  water  for  an  hour.  Lay  in  cold 
water  until  cool  enough  to  handle.  Scrape  off  all  the  skin  and 
chop  the  beets  very  fine.  Turn  the  beets  and  the  juice  which  has 
exuded  from  them  into  a  pint  of  mutton  stock,  and  simmer  for 
fifteen  minutes.  Rub  through  a  fine  colander  or  a  coarse  soup- 
strainer  and  keep  hot  at  the  side  of  the  range.  Cook  together 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  butter  and  two  of  flour,  and  pour  upon  them 
a  pint  of  milk.  Stir  until  thick  and  smooth,  then  add  slowly  the 
beet  and  mutton  puree.  When  very  hot,  season  with  salt  and  white 
pepper  and  serve. 

Tomato  cream  soup  (No.  1) 

Cut  up  a  dozen  ripe  tomatoes  and  stew  tender  in  a  pint  of 
water.  Rub  through  a  strainer  and  thicken  with  three  teaspoon- 
fuls of  corn-starch  rubbed  to  a  paste  with  a  tablespoonful  of  but- 
ter. Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  sugar,  and  pour  slowly  upon 
the  mixture  a  quart  of  scalding  milk,  to  which  a  pinch  of  soda  has 
been  added. 

Tomato  cream  soup  (No.  2) 

Cook  a  quart  of  tomatoes  soft  and  rub  them  through  a  colander, 
or  drain  the  liquid  from  a  can  of  tomatoes.  Heat  it  over  the  fire, 
cooking  with  it  a  pinch  of  soda  and  a  teaspoon ful  of  onion  juice. 
Cook  together  in  another  saucepan  a  tablespoonful,  each,  of  butter 
and  flour  until  they  bubble,  and  then  pour  upon  them  a  pint  of  hot 
milk.  Stir  until  it  thickens,  salt  and  pepper  the  tomato  to  taste, 
and  mix  with  it  the  thickened  milk.  Add  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
Worcestershire  sauce  and  serve  at  once. 

Cream  of  celery  soup 

Cut  a  bunch  of  celery  into  small  bits  and  put  it  over  the  fire  in 
enough  water  to  cover  it.  Stew  until  very  tender ;  rub  through  a 


320  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

colander,  and  stir  into  it  a  pint  of  hot  veal  or  other  white  stock. 
Cook  together  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  the  same  of  flour, 
and  pour  slowly  upon  them  a  pint  of  hot  milk  in  which  a  pinch  of 
soda  has  been  dissolved.  When  thick  and  smooth,  add  gradually, 
stirring  constantly,  the  celery  and  stock.  Season  with  pepper  and 
celery  salt,  and  serve. 

Onion  cream  soup 

Into  a  quart  of  mutton  stock  slice  six  large  onions  and  simmer 
for  an  hour.  Rub  through  a  colander,  return  to  the  fire,  and 
thicken  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  rubbed  to  a  paste  with 
two  of  butter.  Bring  a  half  pint  of  milk  to  the  boiling  point  and 
stir  it  into  the  soup.  Season  with  salt,  white  pepper  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  minced  parsley. 

Potato  cream  soup  (No.  1) 

Mash  ten  large  boiled  potatoes,  beat  them  to  a  soft  mass  with  a 
half  pint  of  cream,  and  season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  onion  juice.  Heat  a  pint  of  milk  to  scalding,  stir 
it  into  a  quart  of  heated  veal  stock  and  thicken  with  a  white  roux. 
Now  beat  in  the  mashed  potato,  boil  up  once,  stirring  constantly, 
add  a  handful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  serve. 

Potato  cream  soup  (No.  2) 

Boil  and  mash  six  good-sized  potatoes.  Heat  a  pint  of  milk  to 
the  boiling  point  and  stir  into  it  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  rubbed 
into  the  same  quantity  of  flour.  When  the  milk  is  smooth  and 
thick  beat  into  it  slowly  the  mashed  potatoes  and  stir  to  a  cream- 
like  soup.  Season  to  taste  with  pepper,  salt  and  onion  juice,  and 
just  before  removing  from  the  fire  add  a  teaspoonful  of  finely 
minced  parsley. 

Cream  of  corn  soup 

Grate  the  corn  from  a  dozen  ears  and  put  over  the  fire  in  a  quart 
of  water.  Simmer  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Now  add  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste  and  a  teaspoonful  of  granulated  sugar.  Rub 


SOUPS  321 

to  a  paste  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  two  of  flour  and 
diicken  the  corn  soup  with  this.  Have  ready  heated  a  quart  of 
milk,  pour  this  gradually  upon  a  beaten  egg,  turn  into  a  heated 
tureen  and  stir  in  the  corn  puree. 

Cream  of  asparagus  soup 

Cut  the  stalks  of  a  bunch  of  asparagus  into  half-inch  lengths, 
and  boil  slowly  for  an  hour  in  three  cups  of  salted  water.  When 
the  stalks  are  tender,  drain  through  a  colander,  pressing  and  rub- 
bing the  asparagus  that  all  the  juice  may  exude.  Return  the 
liquid  to  the  fire  and  keep  it  hot  while  you  cook  together  in  a 
saucepan  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one  of  flour,  and  pour 
upon  them  a  quart  of  milk.  Stir  until  smooth,  and  add  the  aspara- 
gus liquor  slowly  with  a  cupful  of  asparagus  tips,  already  boiled 
tender.  Have  ready  beaten  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  pour  the  hot 
soup  gradually  upon  these,  stirring  all  the  time ;  return  to  the 
fire  for  just  a  half  minute,  season  to  taste  and  serve. 

Cream  of  pea  soup 

Open  a  can  of  peas,  turn  off  the  liquor  and  pour  over  them 
enough  cold  water  to  cover  them.  At  the  end  of  half  an  hour  drain 
the  peas,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of  water  and  boil 
until  they  are  reduced  to  a  pulp.  Rub  through  a  colander  and  add 
a  teaspoonful  of  granulated  sugar.  Thicken  a  pint  of  rich  milk 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  rubbed  into  one  of  butter,  and  stir  the 
pea  puree  into  this.  Cook  for  a  minute,  season  to  taste,  and  turn 
into  a  heated  tureen.  Have  ready  a  handful  of  dice  of  fried  bread 
to  throw  upon  the  surface  of  the  soup  just  before  it  is  sent  to  the 
table. 

Tapioca  cream  soup 

Soak  two  tablespoonfuls  of  tapioca  in  a  gill  of  cold  water  for  six 
or  eight  hours.  Heat  a  pint  of  well-seasoned  mutton  stock  to  boil- 
ing and  stir  the  tapioca  into  this.  Boil  until  the  tapioca  is  clear, 
then  slowly  add  a  pint  of  scalding  milk,  in  which  a  pinch  of  soda 


3*2  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

has  been  dissolved.  Season  to  taste,  and  pour  the  soup  very  grad- 
ually upon  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs.  Turn  into  a  heated 
tureen  and  serve. 

Cream  cheese  soup 

Boil  an  onion  for  fifteen  minutes  in  a  pint  of  veal  stock,  then 
strain  it  out  and  return  the  stock  to  the  fire.  Heat  a  pint  of  milk 
to  scalding,  thicken  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  rubbed  into 
one  of  butter,  season  with  white  pepper  and  celery  salt,  and  add 
to  the  veal  stock.  Stir  in  slowly  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  then 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese  and  serve. 

Cream  of  lettuce  soup 

Make  as  you  would  cream  of  spinach  soup,  but  boil  ten  minutes 
only.  It  is  very  good  and  more  delicate  than  spinach. 

Cream  of  sago  soup 

Soak  half  a  cupful  of  sago  for  three  hours  in  enough  tepid 
water  to  cover  it.  Pour  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  upon  it,  and 
simmer  in  an  inner  boiler  until  very  soft.  Now  add  three  cupfuls 
of  hot  milk,  into  which  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  rolled  in  flour 
have  been  stirred.  Beat  up  well,  put  in  celery  salt,  pepper  and  a 
little  onion  juice;  stir  up  and  beat  from  the  bottom  for  two  min- 
utes ;  pour  gradually  upon  two  beaten  eggs ;  set  in  boiling  water 
for  two  minutes,  and  pour  out. 


VEGETABLE   SOUPS  WITH   MEAT 

Potato  puree 

Peel  and  slice  a  quart  of  good  "old"  potatoes.  Put  them  into 
the  soup  kettle  with  a  large  sliced  onion,  three  stalks  of  celery  cut 
into  inch  pieces,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  and  pepper  and 
salt  to  taste ;  stew  slowly  until  reduced  to  a  pulp,  add  a  quart  of 


SOUPS  323 

good  stock ;  simmer  a  few  minutes  longer,  run  through  a  colander 
into  another  saucepan  and  let  it  boil  gently  for  five  minutes.  Just 
before  ready  to  serve  add  a  pint  of  hot  cream,  a  piece  of  butter  and 
a  tablespoonful  of  minced  parsley. 


Bean  soup 

Soak  three  cupfuls  of  dried  white  beans  for  eight  hours.  Drain, 
cover  them  with  two  quarts  of  boiling  water,  and  boil  until  the 
beans  are  tender  and  broken  to  pieces.  Rub  them  and  the  water 
in  which  they  have  been  boiled  through  a  sieve  and  return  to  the 
fire.  Add  a  quart  of  stock,  in  which  a  ham  or  a  piece  of  corn  beef 
has  been  boiled.  If  this  is  too  salt,  add  other  soup  stock  with  it. 
Boil  for  an  hour,  season  to  taste ;  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  butter 
rolled  in  one  of  flour  and  put  into  the  tureen.  Put  a  handful  of 
croutons  or  dice  of  fried  bread  on  the  surface  of  the  soup. 

Mock-turtle  bean  soup 

Make  as  you  would  white  bean  soup,  adding,  at  the  last,  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter  rolled  in  one  of  browned  flour,  and  when 
it  has  boiled  one  minute,  a  glass  of  sherry. 

Have  in  the  tureen  three  tablespoon fuls  of  hard-boiled  egg,  cut 
into  dice,  and  a  lemon,  peeled  and  sliced  as  thin  as  paper.  It  is  a 
surprisingly  good  imitation  of  mock  turtle  soup. 

Bean  and  tomato  soup 

Soak  a  quart  of  beans  for  eight  hours.  Drain  and  soak  an  hour 
longer  in  warm  water.  Drain  and  put  into  a  soup  pot  with  a  gal- 
lon of  cold  water,  and  bring  slowly  to  a  boil.  Add  a  half  pound  of 
fat  salt  pork,  chopped,  two  sliced  onions  and  a  bay  leaf.  Let  all 
simmer  gently  for  four  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  run  and 
press  the  soup  through  a  sieve,  and  return  it  to  the  pot  with  a 
quart  of  canned  tomatoes  seasoned,  and  sweetened  with  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  granulated  sugar.  Boil  for  half  an  hour,  strain  the 
soup  through  a  colander  and  return' to  the  fire,  while  you  thicken 


324  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

it  with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  rubbed  into  the  same  quantity  of 
butter.    Boil  up  once  and  serve. 

Split  pea  soup 

This  soup  may  be  made  of  dried  split  green  or  yellow  peas. 
Soak  a  large  cupful  of  the  peas  all  night,  drain,  cover  with  two 
quarts  of  water  and  bring  to  a  boil.  Simmer  gently  until  the  peas 
are  soft,  then  rub  through  a  colander  and  return  to  the  fire, 
thicken  with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  rubbed  into  one  of  butter  and 
season  with  pepper,  celery,  salt  and  onion  juice.  Stir  until  very 
smooth,  turn  into  a  heated  tureen,  throw  in  a  handful  of  dice  of 
fried  bread  and  serve. 

Celery  soup 

Wash  the  celery,  cut  it  into  inch  lengths  and  boil  it  in  enough 
water  to  cover  it  until  so  soft  that  it  can  be  rubbed  through  a  col- 
ander. After  passing  it  through  the  colander,  return  to  the  fire 
with  a  pint  of  white  stock.  Scald  a  pint  of  milk,  stir  into  it  a 
tablespoonful,  each,  of  butter  and  flour,  and  when  thick  and 
smooth,  add  slowly  the  stock  seasoned  with  white  pepper  and 
celery  salt.  Beat  for  a  half-minute  and  serve. 

Green  pea  pure"e  (No.  1) 

Shell  two  quarts  of  peas  and  leave  in  cold  water.  Wash  the 
pods  and  put  them  over  the  fire  to  boil  in  a  quart  of  veal  or  mut- 
ton stock.  Boil  for  twenty  minutes,  then  drain  out  the  pods  and 
return  the  stock  to  the  fire.  Drain  the  water  from  the  peas,  and 
when  the  stock  boils  again,  turn  them  into  this.  Add  a  pinch  of 
soda  and  boil  until  the  green  pellets  are  reduced  to  a  soft  mass. 
Rub  the  pulp  and  liquid  through  a  colander,  return  to  the  fire  and 
thicken  with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  rubbed  into  one  of  butter. 
Have  heated  in  another  saucepan  a  half  pint  of  rich  milk.  Pour 
this  slowly  into  a  bowl  containing  a  beaten  egg ;  whip  all  together, 
and  gradually  add  the  peas-puree.  Do  not  return  the  soup  to  the 
fire  after  it  has  been  poured  upon  the  milk  and  egg,  or  it  may 
curdle. 


SOUPS  325 

Green  pea  puree  (No.  2) 

Boil  a  quart  of  shelled  peas  tender  in  salted  hot  water  with  a 
young  onion,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley  and  six  mint  leaves.  Rub 
through  a  colander  and  return  to  the  fire,  adding  half  a  cupful  of 
good  stock,  salt,  pepper  and  a  lump  of  sugar.  When  it  has  boiled 
two  minutes  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  cook 
one  minute  longer  and  pour  upon  croutons  of  fried  bread-dice  in 
the  tureen. 

Savory  potato  soup 

Crack  a  good  marrow-bone  well  and  put  over  the  fire  with 
three  pints  of  cold  water,  a  small  sliced  carrot,  a  stalk  or  two  of 
celery  and  a  grated  onion.  Cook  slowly  until  boiled  down  to  one- 
half  the  original  quantity.  Set  aside  until  cold;  remove  the  fat, 
take  out  the  bones,  and  rub  the  vegetables  through  a  colander  back 
into  the  soup.  Heat  quickly  to  a  boil,  and  pour  upon  your  mashed 
potato,  gradually,  working  in  smoothly  as  you  go  on.  Turn  into 
a  double  boiler  and  when  again  hot  put  in  a  great  spoonful  of 
chopped  parsley.  Have  ready  in  another  saucepan  a  good  cupful 
of  hot  water,  in  which  has  been  dropped  a  pinch  of  soda.  Stir  into 
this  a  teaspoonful  of  butter,  rubbed  up  in  one  of  corn-starch. 
Cook  three  minutes,  add  to  the  potato  soup,  stir  briskly  for  half  a 
minute  and  put  into  the  tureen.  If  properly  seasoned  this  is  a 
delicious  family  broth. 

Browned  potato  soup 

Peel  and  cut  into  quarters  twelve  potatoes,  put  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  beef  dripping  in  a  soup  pot  and  fry  in  it  the  potatoes  and  a 
sliced  onion.  When  brown,  add  two  quarts  of  water  and  simmer 
until  the  potatoes  are  soft  and  broken.  Rub  through  a  colander, 
return  the  puree  to  the  pot,  thicken  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
browned  flour  rubbed  to  a  paste  with  a  great  spoonful  of  butter, 
stir  until  smooth,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste  and  serve. 

It  is  very  good. 


MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 


Savory  rice  soup 

Boil  half  a  cupful  of  well-washed  rice  in  boiling  water  for 
twelve  minutes;  drain  off  the  water,  pour  over  it  one  quart  of 
stock  and  cook  until  the  rice  is  tender  ;  then  rub  through  a  strainer 
and  return  to  the  fire;  beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  add  to  them 
half  a  cup  of  cream,  and  this  to  the  soup  and  stir  for  one  minute  ; 
do  not  allow  it  to  boil;  add  more  seasoning  if  necessary,  and 
serve. 

Okra  soup 

Into  a  quart  of  chicken  stock  stir  two  slices  of  corned  ham, 
minced,  a  chopped  onion  and  two  dozen  okra.  Add  a  pint  of 
strained  tomatoes  and  boil  all  until  the  okra  is  tender.  Season  to 
taste  and  serve.  ,.,.;. 

Red  tomato  soup 

Skim  all  grease  from  a  quart  of  beef  stock  and  turn  into  it  a 
can  of  tomatoes,  or  a  quart  of  fresh  tomatoes,  peeled  and  sliced. 
Bring  to  a  boil  and  simmer  steadily  for  an  hour.  At  the  end  of 
this  time  rub  the  soup  through  a  sieve  and  return  to  the  fire  with 
a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  rolled 
in  flour,  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  the  same  quantity  of  kitchen 
bouquet,  and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Add  a  half-cupful  of  boiled 
rice,  simmer  five  minutes  and  serve  with  squares  of  toasted  bread. 

Tomato  and  bean  soup 

Put  beef-bones  over  the  fire  with  half  a  sliced  carrot,  two  staks 
of  refuse  celery  and  a  grated  onion.  Pour  in  three  pints  of  cold 
water  ;  simmer  slowly  in  a  covered  pot  four  hours,  until  the  liquid 
is  reduced  to  one-half.  Turn  bones  and  soup  into  a  bowl  and  let 
all  get  perfectly  cold.  Skim  off  the  fat,  strain  out  the  bones  and 
rub  the  vegetables  through  a  colander  back  into  the  liquor.  Sea- 
son this  to  your  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  bring  to  a  boil,  add  a 
cupful  of  stewed  tomato  and  one  of  baked  beans  and  cook  half  an 
hour  longer  before  rubbing  all  hard  through  the  colander  into 
another  saucepan.  Stir  in  a  teaspoonful  of  butter  rubbed  up  with 


SOUPS  327 

one  of  flour,  to  prevent  wateriness  in  the  soup,  also  a  little' 
chopped  parsley.  Boil  up  sharply  for  one  minute  and  turn  upon 
tiny  squares  of  fried  or  toasted  bread  laid  in  the  bottom  of  the 
tureen 

This  is  an  excellent  way  of  using  up  left-overs  of  stewed  toma- 
toes and  baked  beans. 

Carrot  soup 

Wash  and  clean  one  dozen  half-grown  carrots.  Slice  thin,  then 
place  them  in  a  saucepan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  a  little 
salt  and  sugar  and  cook  slowly,  turning  often  until  the  carrots  be- 
gin to  color.  Add  a  pint  of  rich  broth  and  allow  them  to  boil 
gently  to  a  glaze;  then  put  the  carrots  through  your  vegetable 
press;  return  to  the  saucepan,  simmer  until  smoking-hot  and 
serve. 

Sorrel  soup 

Chop  the  sorrel  into  bits  and  boil  tender  in  a  quart  of  mutton 
stock.  Rub  through  a  colander  and  return  to  the  fire.  Thicken 
a  pint  of  hot  milk  with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  rubbed  into  one 
of  butter.  Cook  one  minute,  or  until  it  is  smooth  and  free  from 
lumps,  when  stir  in  slowly  the  sorrel  soup.  Season  to  taste  and 
serve.  The  French  are  particularly  fond  of  sorrel  soups. 
Imrrim  hrrB  i^cfcf^  rfiiv/  •mbm;^  ^lm,I  quoa  a.  m 

Succotash  soup 

Remove  the  strings  from  string  beans,  cut  the  beans  into  inch 
lengths  and  shred  each  inch  into  thin  strips.  Grate  the  kernels 
from  six  ears  of  corn,  and  boil  the  cobs  for  twenty  minutes  in  a 
quart  of  cleared  beef  stock.  Remove  the  cobs  and  boil  the  grated 
corn  and  shredded  beans  in  the  stock  for  twenty-five  minutes. 
Now  make  a  pint  of  tomato  sauce,  thickening  it  and  seasoning  it 
as  usual,  and  pour  the  stock,  corn  and  beans  gradually  upon  this. 
Season  all  to  taste,  and  serve  very  hot,  without  straining. 

You  may  make  this  soup  in  winter  from  canned  corn  and  string 
beans. 


328  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Spinach  soup 

Pick  over,  wash  and  stem  half  a  peck  of  spinach,  and  put  over 
the  fire  in  the  inner  vessel  of  a  double  boiler,  with  boiling  water 
in  the  outer,  and  cook  tender.  Rub  through  your  vegetable  press 
back  into  the  saucepan ;  add  a  pint  of  good  stock ;  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  a  teaspoonf ul  of  sugar  and  a  pinch  of  mace ;  bring  to  a 
quick  boil  to  keep  the  color,  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  rolled 
in  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  and  cook  one  minute. 

Celery  soup 

Is  good  made  in  the  same  way,  also  cauliflower. 

Lettuce  soup 

Treat  as  directed  in  spinach  soup.  Cook  very  quickly  and  add 
a  dash  of  lemon  juice. 

Farmer's  chowder 

Parboil  and  slice  six  fine  potatoes;  fry  half  a  pound  of  sweet 
salt  pork  (chopped)  and  when  it  begins  to  crisp  add  a  minced 
onion  and  cook  to  a  light  brown.  Pack  potatoes,  pork  and  onion 
in  a  soup  kettle,  sprinkling  each  layer  with  pepper  and  minced 
parsley.  Add  the  hot  fat ;  cover  with  a  pint  of  boiling  water  and 
simmer  thirty  minutes.  Turn  into  a  colander  and  drain  the  liquor 
back  into  the  kettle.  Have  ready  a  pint  of  hot  milk  into  which 
has  been  stirred  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  rolled  in  flour ;  add  to 
the  liquor,  cook  one  minute,  return  the  potatoes  to  the  kettle  and 
serve. 


VEGETABLE   SOUPS   WITHOUT   MEAT 

Split  pea  soup 

Soak  a  large  cup  of  split  peas  all  night,  then  put  them  over  the 
fire  with  two  quarts  of  water  and  bring  to  a  boil.    Simmer  gently 


SOUPS  329 

until  the  peas  are  soft.  Rub  through  a  colander,  return  to  the 
fire,  thicken  with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  rubbed  into  two  of 
butter  and  season  with  pepper,  celery  salt  and  onion  juice.  Stir 
to  a  smooth  puree,  pour  into  the  tureen  and  throw  a  handful  of 
dice  of  fried  bread  upon  the  surface  of  the  soup. 

Green  pea  broth  (No.  1) 

Drain  the  liquor  from  a  can  of  peas,  cook  them'  until  very  soft, 
then  rub  through  a  colander.  Thicken  a  quart  of  milk  with  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour  rubbed  into  two  of  butter,  stir  the  mashed 
peas  into  this,  boil  up  once,  stirring  steadily ;  season  with  salt  and 
a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  serve. 


Green  pea  broth  (No.  2) 

Drain  a  can  of  peas  and  lay  the  peas  in  cold  water  for  one  hour. 
Add  two  cupfuls  of  cold  water,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  one 
slice  of  onion ;  boil  twenty  minutes  and  rub  through  a  vegetable 
press.  Heat  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  add  one  of  flour,  mixed 
with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one-eighth  of  a  teaspoonful  of 
pepper.  Stir  into  the  boiling  mixture  and  add  two  cupfuls  of 
scalded  milk  heated  with  a  bit  of  soda.  Strain  before  serving. 

"Linsen,"  or  lentil  soup 

Pick  over  and  wash  one  cupful  of  lentils,  soak  three  hours,  and 
put  them  on  to  cook  in  one  quart  of  boiling  water.  Let  them  cook 
very  slowly  until  soft,  and  the  water  reduced  one-half.  Rub  the 
pulp  through  a  strainer,  add  one  pint  of  milk  and  when  boiling 
thicken  with  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  cooked  in  a  tablespoonful 
of  butter.  Season  with  paprika,  salt  and  a  little  sugar,  and  serve 
with  croutons. 

A  good  green  pea  soup 

One  quart  of  shelled  peas,  two  cupfuls  of  milk,  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  butter  and  one  of  flour,  one-half  teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt 


330  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

and  white  sugar,  and  half  as  much  white  pepper,  one  quart  of 
boiling  water. 

Wash  the  pods  well  when  you  have  shelled  the  peas  and  put  the 
pods  over  the  fire  in  the  boiling  water ;  cook  fifteen  minutes,  strain 
and  press  the  softened  pods  into  the  water  and  return  to  the  fire 
with  the  raw  peas.  Cook  until  soft,  when  run  through  your  vege- 
table press  back  into  the  saucepan  with  the  water.  Have  ready 
a  roux  made  by  heating  the  butter  and  stirring  into  it  in  the  fry- 
ing-pan the  flour.  Have  the  milk  hot  in  another  vessel,  add  the 
roux,  cook  two  minutes.  Season  the  pea-broth  and  pour  into  the 
tureen.  Stir  in  the  thickened  milk  and  serve,  pouring  upon  crou- 
tons of  fried  bread. 

Squash  soup 

One  cupful  of  cold  boiled  squash,  run  through  a  colander,  one 
quart  of  milk,  heated,  with  a  pinch  of  soda,  one  teaspoonful,  each, 
of  salt  and  of  sugar,  a  quarter  as  much  pepper  and  a  pinch  of 
mace,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  one  of  flour,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  onion  juice  and  two  of  minced  celery. 

Make  a  roux  of  butter  and  flour,  and  stir  into  the  hot  milk. 
Beat  together  the  squash,  celery  and  seasoning  until  light ;  heat 
quickly  in  a  saucepan,  stirring  all  the  time.  When  very  hot,  put 
into  the  tureen,  turn  in  the  milk,  stirring  all  well  together,  and 
serve. 

Turnip  soup 

Make  as  directed  in  last  recipe. 

Rice  and  tomato  soup 

Peel  and  cut  up  a  dozen  ripe  tomatoes  and  boil  to  a  pulp  in  a 
quart  of  salted  water.  Strain,  return  to  the  fire,  and  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  rubbed  to  a  paste  with  the  same  quan- 
tity of  flour ;  pepper,  salt  and  sugar  to  taste,  a  tablespoonf ul  of 
minced  parsley  and  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice.  Cook  for  ten 
minutes,  then  stir  in  a  cupful  of  boiled  rice. 


SOUPS  331 

Corn  and  tomato  soup 

Heat  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  put  into  it  two 
fine-cut  onions,  one  bay  leaf  and  six  whole  black  peppers ;  cook  five 
minutes  without  browning;  add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  stir 
and  cook  two  minutes ;  then  one  can  of  tomatoes,  one  tablespoon- 
ful of  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-quarter  teaspoonful  of 
white  pepper ;  stir  often  and  cook  ten  minutes.  Next  comes  one 
pint  of  boiling  water ;  cook  five  minutes,  rub  the  tomatoes  through 
a  sieve  into  a  clean  saucepan  and  add  one  can  of  corn,  put  it  into 
the  soup  and  boil  fifteen  minutes ;  mix  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  with 
a  half  cupful  of  cream  or  milk,  stir  into  the  soup,  and  serve  at 
once. 

Corn  chowder 

Cut  the  kernels  from  a  dozen  ears  of  green  corn.  Peel  and 
mince  two  onions  and  fry  them  brown  in  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter  in  a  deep  saucepan.  Now  put  in  the  corn,  four  broken  pilot 
biscuits  and  half  a  dozen  parboiled  and  sliced  potatoes.  Season 
with  pepper,  salt  and  a  tablespoonful  of  minced  parsley,  and  cover 
with  a  quart  of  boiling  water.  Let  all  cook  gently  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour,  then  stir  in  slowly  a  cupful  of  boiling  milk, 
thickened  with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  rubbed  into  one  of  butter. 
Turn  at  once  into  a  heated  tureen.  A  delightful  summer  soup. 

Artichoke  soup 

Wash,  pare  and  quarter  one  dozen  large  Jerusalem  artichokes 
and  lay  in  cold  water  for  an  hour.  Put  over  the  fire  with  enough 
cold  water  to  keep  them  from  burning  and  cook  five  minutes  after 
they  begin  to  boil.  Drain  off  the  water,  put  the  artichokes  into  the 
inner  vessel  of  the  double  boiler  with  one  quart  of  milk  and  a 
pinch  of  soda,  and  cook  until  tender.  Press  the  pulp  through 
your  vegetable  press ;  put  it  again  into  the  boiler  and  thicken  with 
one  tablespoonful,  each,  of  butter  and  flour,  first  cooked  together 
to  a  white  roux.  Season  with  salt  and  cayenne  and  serve  with 
fried  bread  dice. 


332  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Vermicelli  soup 
(Contributed) 

Bring  to  a  boiling  point  two  quarts  of  soup  stock.  Add  four 
ounces  of  vermicelli  and  boil  hard  for  twenty  minutes.  Season 
with  pepper  and  salt  and  serve  at  once. 

Macaroni  soup 

(Contributed) 

Cook  one  ounce  of  macaroni  in  boiling  water  for  twenty  min- 
utes. Drain  and  cut  into  little  rings.  Bring  one  quart  of  stock 
to  the  boiling  point.  Add  the  macaroni  and  let  simmer  five  min- 
utes. Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Lima  bean  soup 
(Contributed) 

Cook  the  beans  in  thin  soup  stock  until  they  fall  to  pieces. 
Pass  through  the  puree  strainer.  Add  enough  thin  cream  or  rich 
milk  to  make  the  soup  the  proper  consistency.  Season  to  taste, 
reheat  and  serve  at  once. 

Noodles  for  soup 

Beat  an  egg  with  a  pinch  of  salt,  then  stir  into  it  gradually 
enough  flour  to  enable  you  to  knead  it  to  a  firm  dough.  Lay  this 
on  the  floured  pastry  board,  roll  very,  very  thin,  and  cut  into 
strips  of  a  half-inch  in  width.  Leave  these  long  strips  on  the 
board  for  a  few  minutes  until  so  dry  that  they  may  be  rolled  up 
loosely,  as  tape  is  rolled.  These  can  be  dried  in  a  colander  near 
the  range  and  kept  for  soup.  They  are  to  be  dropped  into  the 
boiling  soup  and  cooked  for  fifteen  minutes.  You  may  keep  them 
in  a  tin  box  in  a  dry  place  for  days. 


SOUPS  333 

Croutons 

Cut  stale  bread  into  dice  less  than  half  an  inch  square ;  fry  in 
hot  dripping  or  butter  to  a  delicate  brown ;  take  up  with  a  split 
spoon  and  shake  free  of  fat  in  a  colander. 


Egg  soup 

In  a  double  boiler  heat  a  quart  of  milk  into  which  you  have 
stirred  a  pinch  of  soda  and  a  minced  onion.  Rub  to  a  paste  a 
tablespoonful,  each,  of  butter  and  flour  and  stir  into  the  milk. 
Season  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste. 

Lay  six  poached  eggs  in  the  bottom  of  a  tureen  and  when  the 
white  soup  is  smooth  and  cream-like,  pour  it  carefully  upon  the 
eggs. 


FISH   SOUPS 

Red  snapper  soup 

Heat  a  quart  of  white  stock  to  a  boil.  Stir  in  two  cupfuls  of  the 
cold  cooked  fish,  freed  of  skin  and  bones,  and  minced  finely.  Add 
pepper,  salt,  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley  and  a  great 
spoonful  of  butter.  Heat  a  cupful  of  milk  to  boiling,  thicken  it 
with  a  white  roux  and  a  half  cupful  of  fine  cracker  crumbs.  When 
the  fish  has  cooked  in  the  soup  for  five  minutes,  stir  the  liquid  into 
the  thickened  milk  and  serve. 

Clam  chowder 

Chop  a  half-pound  of  fat  salt  pork ;  put  a  layer  of  the  pork  in 
the  bottom  of  the  pot,  cover  with  a  layer  of  clams,  sprinkle  with 
a  little  minced  onion  and  parsley,  and  put  in  a  layer  of  split 
and  soaked  Boston  crackers.  Proceed  in  this  way  until  seventy- 
five  clams  are  used,  then  sprinkle  with  pepper  and  salt  and  cover 
with  cold  water.  Bring  slowly  to  the  boil  and  simmer  for  an 
hour,  Drain  off  the  liquid  and  return  to  the  fire.  Thicken  with  a 


334  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

lump  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  and  add  a  cupful  of  tomato  juice. 
Return  the  other  ingredients  to  the  pot,  bring  to  the  boil,  and 
send  to  the  table. 

"Long"  clam  chowder 

Chop  a  quart  of  "long,"  or  soft  clams,  peel  six  potatoes  and  slice 
thin ;  mince  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fat  salt  pork  fine ;  tie  up  in  a 
cheese-cloth  bag  six  whole  allspice  and  the  same  number  of  whole 
cloves.  Put  the  minced  pork  into  the  pot  and  fry  it  crisp ;  remove 
the  pork  and  fry  a  small  sliced  onion  in  the  pot  to  a  light  brown. 
Now  put  in  the  potatoes  and  a  can  of  tomatoes,  the  spice  bag,  a 
quart  of  cold  water  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper.  Cook  for 
four  hours.  At  the  end  of  three  and  a  half  hours  add  the  clams 
and  four  pilot  biscuits  that  have  been  soaked  in  milk.  Serve  very 
hot. 

Scallop  chowder 

Scallops  treated  as  directed  in  the  foregoing  recipe  make  a  de- 
licious chowder.  Add  more  cayenne  than  when  clams  are  used, 
scallops  being  the  richer  fish  of  the  two. 

Clam  soup 

Fifty  fine  clams,  with  the  liquor  that  runs  from  them.  One 
quart  of  water.  One  cupful  of  milk  and  two  well-beaten  eggs. 
Pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Pinch  of  soda  in  the  milk.  Two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Put  the  minced  clams,  liquor  and  water  in  a  saucepan ;  simmer 
gently  (but  not  boil)  about  one  and  a  half  hours.  The  clams 
should  be  so  well-cooked  that  you  seem  to  have  only  a  thick  broth  ; 
season  with  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  and  pour  into  a  tureen  in 
which  a  few  slices  of  well-browned  toast  have  been  placed.  Beat 
the  eggs  very  light,  add  slowly  the  milk,  scalding  hot,  beat  hard 
a  minute  or  so,  and  when  the  soup  is  removed  from  the  fire  stir 
the  egg  and  milk  into  it. 


SOUPS  335 

Oyster  soup 

Three  dozen  oysters  and  one  quart  of  their  juice.  One  quart 
of  milk.  Two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  rolled  in  one  of  flour. 
Paprika,  or  cayenne,  and  salt  to  taste.  A  pinch  of  mace.  Pinch 
of  soda  in  the  milk. 

Scald  the  liquor  in  one  saucepan  and  the  milk  in  another.  Make 
a  roux  of  butter  and  flour  and  add  the  scalding  milk  gradually, 
stirring  to  a  smooth  mixture.  Now  put  this  with  the  hot  oyster 
juice ;  add  the  oysters  and  cook  until  they  "ruffle,"  not  an  instant 
afterward. 

Send  crackers  and  sliced  lemon  around  with  it. 

A  fine  crab  soup 
(A  Maryland  recipe.) 

Boil  one  dozen  large  crabs;  let  them  get  cold,  and  extract  the 
meat.  Meanwhile  chop  a  pound  of  salt  pork  and  boil  half  an 
hour,  fast.  Cool  suddenly,  take  off  the  grease  from  it,  turn  the 
liquor  into  a  saucepan  and  heat.  Put  the  crab-meat  into  this  and 
simmer  thirty-five  minutes.  Have  ready  a  pint  of  rich,  un- 
skimmed milk,  scalding  hot.  Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  light 
and  pour  the  milk  gradually  upon  them,  stirring  all  the  time. 
Turn  into  the  inner  vessel  of  a  double-boiler,  and  when  the  boil- 
ing point  is  reached  add  the  crabs  and  the  liquor  in  which  they 
were  cooked. 

Remove  from  the  fire,  but  leave  the  inner  vessel  in  the  boiling 
water  for  five  minutes  after  you  have  added  a  tablespoonful  of 
finely-minced  parsley. 

Eel  soup 

Two  pounds  of  eels,  cleaned  and  cut  into  inch-lengths;  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  cooked  to  a  roux  with  one  of  flour ;  three 
pints  of  water,  one  sliced  onion,  a  pinch  of  mace  and  a  larger  of 
cayenne;  salt  to  taste;  dripping  for  frying;  one  tablespoonful  of 
minced  parsley.  Juice  of  a  lemon. 

Heat  the  dripping  hissing  hot  and  fry  the  sliced  onion  in  it. 


336  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Now  put  in  the  eels  when  you  have  wiped  them  dry,  and  fry  on 
both  sides  to  a  light  brown.  Turn  all  into  a  covered  saucepan, 
pour  in  the  cold  water  and  cook  slowly  for  an  hour.  Season 
then,  stir  in  the  roux ;  simmer  three  minutes,  put  in  the  lemon 
juice  and  serve. 

Catfish  soup 

May  be  made  in  the  same  way. 

Chicken  broth 

Cover  a  jointed  fowl  with  cold  water  and  boil  until  tender. 
Set  aside  the  liquor  in  which  the  fowl  was  boiled  until  very  cold. 
Remove  meat  and  bones,  and  skim,  removing  every  particle  of  fat. 
Put  two  quarts  of  this  chicken-stock  on  the  fire,  season  with  salt 
and  a  little  white  pepper,  bring  to  a  boil  and  stir  in  six  table- 
spoonfuls  of  rice  that  has  been  soaked  for  an  hour  in  cold  water. 
Add  a  little  onion  juice  and  cook  until  the  rice  is  soft.  Now 
stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  minced  parsley  and  cook  for  ten  minutes 
longer.  Heat  a  pint  of  milk  into  which  a  pinch  of  baking  soda 
has  been  stirred.  Cook  together  a  heaping  tablespoonful,  each, 
of  butter  and  flour,  and  when  they  bubble,  pour  upon  them  the 
pint  of  heated  milk,  stirring  until  you  have  a  smooth  white  sauce. 
Into  this  beat  gradually  two  well-whipped  eggs.  Stir  over  the 
fire  for  half-a-minute,  and  pour  the  egg  and  milk  mixture  into 
a  heated  tureen.  Into  this  pour  slowly,  beating  steadily,  the 
chicken  soup.  Season  to  taste  and  serve  at  once. 


FISH 

Baked  red  snapper 

A  FISH  that  is  earning,  and  honestly,  much  popularity.  It 
would  have  all  it  deserved  if  it  were  always  cooked  properly.  It 
is  not  a  fish  with  which  one  can  take  liberties. 

Draw,  clean  and  wipe  a  five-pound  red  snapper  and  wash  inside 
and  out  with  salad  oil  and  lemon.  Make  a  stuffing  as  follows: 
One  well-beaten  egg,  one-half  cupful  of  powdered  cracker  and  one 
cupful  of  oysters,  drained  and  chopped.  Season  with  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  onion  juice,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt,  one-eighth  teaspoonful  of  paprika  and  one  tablespoonful 
of  minced  parsley,  and  moisten  with  cream  and  oyster  liquor.  It 
should  be  quite  moist.  Fill  the  fish  and  sew  the  edges  together 
with  fine  white  cotton. 

Put  a  layer  of  minced  fat  pork  on  the  grating  of  your  covered 
roaster,  lay  a  few  slices  of  tomato  and  onion  on  the  pork,  then 
the  fish  on  this.  Dredge  the  top  with  salt  and  flour,  and  put  on 
more  minced  pork.  Place  it  in  a  hot  oven,  add  a  cupful  of  boiling 
water,  and  cover.  Baste  often,  and  add  more  water  after  each 
basting.  Bake  about  one  hour.  Remove  to  a  hot  dish  and  serve 
with  sauce  Hollandaise. 

Boiled  red  snapper 

Clean,  wash,  wipe  dry  and  sew  up  in  coarse  white  mosquito 
netting.  Put  it  into  boiling  water  deep  enough  to  cover  the 
fish,  and  which  has  been  salted  and  flavored  with  lemon  juice. 
Let  the  water  come  to  the  boiling  point,  then  reduce  the  heat  so 
it  will  merely  bubble.  Simmer  about  half  an  hour.  Lift  care- 
fully from  the  water,  drain  and  unwrap;  put  it  into  a  hot  dish. 
Garnish  with  parsley  and  serve  with  tomato  sauce  or  with  sauce 
Hollandaise. 

22  337. 


338  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Steamed  red  snapper 

Cover  the  bottom  of  your  steamer  with  sliced  tomatoes,  and 
on  these  strew  minced  onion.  Clean,  wash  and  dry  the  fish ;  lay 
upon  the  prepared  bed  and  steam  slowly  at  least  one  hour  for  a 
fish  weighing  four  pounds.  Open  the  steamer  once,  and  turn 
the  fish  very  carefully.  Serve  with  oyster  sauce  or  with  sauce 
tartare. 

Baked  bluefish 

Clean,  wash  and  wipe  a  large  bluefish.  Lay  it  in  a  baking-pan, 
dash  over  it  a  cupful  of  boiling  salted  water,  and  bake,  covered, 
for  an  hour,  basting  it  often  to  prevent  burning.  When  tender 
and  brown,  transfer  the  fish  to  a  hot  dish,  and  keep  it  warm  while 
you  set  the  pan  containing  the  gravy  in  which  it  was  cooked  on 
the  range  and  thicken  it  with  browned  flour,  adding  to  flavor  it 
a  pinch  of  salt,  one  of  pepper,  a  tablespoonful  of  catsup  and  a  little 
good  table  sauce.  Lay  slices  of  lemon  about  the  fish  on  the  plat- 
ter, and  serve  the  sauce  from  a  gravy-boat. 

Broiled  bluefish 

Clean,  wash,  wipe  and  split  down  the  back ;  dust  with  salt  and 
pepper  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire.  Transfer  to  a  hot  dish  and 
cover  with  a  mixture  of  butter,  lemon  juice  and  very  finely- 
minced  parsley,  rubbed  to  a  cream.  Cover  and  set  over  hot  water 
for  five  minutes  before  serving. 

Pass  Parisienne  potatoes  with  it. 

Boiled  black  bass  with  cream  gravy 

Put  in  a  pot  enough  slightly  salted  water  to  cover  the  fish, 
add  a  gill  of  vinegar,  an  onion,  eight  whole  peppers  and  a  blade  of 
mace.  Sew  up  the  fish  in  a  piece  of  thin  cheese-cloth  fitted  snugly 
to  it.  Lay  in  the  water;  bring  very  slowly  to  the  simmering 
point,  and  then  boil  steadily,  allowing  twelve  minutes  to  each 
pound  of  the  fish.  When  done  remove  the  cloth,  lay  the  fish  on 
a  platter  garnished  with  sliced  lemon,  and  serve  with  the  cream 
gravy  given  below. 


FISH  339 

Cream  gravy  for  black  bass 

Cook  together  a  tablespoonful,  each,  of  butter  and  flour,  and 
when  blended  strain  slowly  upon  them  a  cupful  of  the  water  in 
which  the  bass  was  boiled,  and  stir  until  smooth  and  thick.  Sea- 
son to  taste  with  celery  salt  and  white  pepper,  and  stir  in  a  gill 
of  cream  to  which  a  pinch  of  baking-soda  has  been  added.  Make 
very  hot,  but  do  not  boil,  and  as  soon  as  hot  remove  from  the  fire. 

Baked  sea  bass  with  shrimp  sauce 

Clean,  wipe  and  anoint  abundantly,  inside  and  out,  with  a  mix- 
ture of  salad  oil  and  vinegar.  Set  on  ice  for  an  hour  to  let  the 
"marinade"  mellow  the  fish. 

Have  ready  half  a  pound  of  rindless  fat  pork,  cut  as  thin  as 
shavings.  Lay  half  upon  the  bottom  of  your  covered  bakepan, 
put  the  fish  upon  them,  and  spread  the  upper  side  with  the  rest. 
Pour  a  little  hot  water  in  the  pan  to  generate  steam ;  cover  and 
bake  one  hour,  if  the  fish  be  large,  basting  three  times  with  butter 
and  water.  Transfer  to  a  hot  dish,  and  set  over  hot  water  while 
you  make  the  sauce. 

Shrimp  sauce  for  baked  bass 

Strain  the  gravy  left  in  the  pan,  and  stir  in  a  brown  roux  made 
by  heating  a  great  spoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan  and  working 
in  a  tablespoonful  of  browned  flour.  Add  four  tablespoonfuls 
of  boiling  water  to  gravy  and  roux,  or  enough  to  bring  it  to  the 
consistency  of  cream,  then  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  cayenne  or 
paprika  to  taste ;  lastly,  half  a  can  of  shrimps,  chopped  fine.  Boil 
one  minute,  pour  some  over  the  fish,  the  rest  into  a  gravy-boat. 

Stuffed  sea  bass 

Clean,  wipe  and  lay  for  an  hour  in  a  marinade  of  salad  oil  and 
vinegar.  Fill  with  a  forcemeat  of  minced  salt  pork  and  chopped 
champignons.  Fresh  mushrooms  are,  of  course,  better,  if  you  can 
get  them.  Bake  upon  shavings  of  fat  salt  pork  as  directed  in  last 


340  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

recipe.  When  it  has  baked  forty  minutes,  cover  with  fresh  toma- 
toes, peeled  and  sliced  thin,  and  half  a  sweet  green  pepper,  minced. 
Drop  bits  of  butter  upon  the  tomatoes,  and  bake  twenty  minutes 
longer. 

Take  up  the  fish  and  keep  hot  while  you  strain  the  gravy  left 
in  the  pan,  rubbing  the  tomatoes  and  pepper  through  a  colander ; 
stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  rolled  in  flour,  add  a  teaspoonful 
of  sugar  and  two  of  onion  juice,  with  hot  water  if  too  thick; 
boil  one  minute;  pour  half  over  the  fish,  the  rest  into  a  sauce- 
boat. 

Muskelonge 

The  coarse  pickerel  of  the  northern  rivers  and  lakes  are  very 
nice,  cooked  as  above  directed.  Bluefish  may  be  treated  in  the 
same  way. 

Baked  shad 

Wash  and  wipe  a  large  shad.  Make  a  stuffing  of  fine  bread- 
crumbs mixed  with  melted  butter,  a  little  minced  onion,  pepper 
and  salt  to  taste.  Fill  the  fish  "with  this  and 
sew  it  up.  Lay  it  in  a  baking-pan  and  pour 
over  it  a  cupful  of  salted  boiling  water  in  which 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  have  been  melted. 
Sprinkle  the  fish  with  flour  and  bake  in  a  steady 
oven.  Baste  with  the  drippings  every  ten  min- 
utes. At  the  end  of  three-quarters  of  an  hour 
try  the  fish  with  a  fork  to  see  if  it  is  done.  It 
should  be  very  tender.  Transfer  carefully  to  a  hot  platter,  cut 
and  remove  the  strings.  Keep  the  fish  hot  while  you  make  the 
sauce. 

Set  on  the  top  of  the  range  the  pan  in  which  the  fish  has  been 
baked.  Thicken  the  fish  drippings  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
browned  flour  wet  up  with  cold  water.  Stir  until  smooth,  then 
add  a  cupful  of  boiling  water,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  tablespoonful 
of  good  table  sauce  and  a  teaspoonful  of  good  kitchen  bouquet. 
Unless  the  sauce  is  perfectly  smooth,  strain  through  a  wire  sieve. 
Pour  into  a  heated  gravy-boat. 


FISH  341 

Boiled  fresh  codfish 

Lay  the  fish  in  salt  and  water  for  an  hour  before  cooking. 
Choose  a  "chunky"  piece,  as  nearly  square  as  you  can  get  it. 
Sew  up  in  white  mosquito  netting  fitted  to  the  shape  of  the  fish. 
Put  on  in  enough  boiling  water  to  cover  it,  adding  four  table-- 
Spoonfuls of  vinegar,  and  cook  steadily  ten  minutes  to  the  pound. 
Unwrap  the  fish  and  pour  over  it  half  of  the  sauce  described  be- 
low, putting  the  rest  into  a  gravy-boat. 

Egg  sauce  for  boiled  codfish 

Make  a  white  sauce  by  cooking  together  a  tablespoonful,  each, 
of  butter  and  of  flour  until  they  bubble,  pouring  upon  them  a 
half  pint  of  milk  and  stirring  until  thick  and  smooth.  To  this  add 
one  hard-boiled  egg,  chopped  fine,  one  raw  egg,  beaten  light, 
putting  it  in  slowly,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Pour  over  the 
fish  in  the  dish  or  serve  in  a  sauce-tureen. 

Baked  fresh  codfish  with  cheese  sauce 

Cut  a  neat  square  or  oblong  of  codfish,  lay  in  salt  and  water 
for  half  an  hour;  wipe  dry  and  rub  all  over  with  melted  butter 
and  lemon  juice.  In  the  bottom  of  your  baking-pan  under  the 
grating  and  just  not  touching  the  fish,  have  a  cupful  of  veal 
stock,  or  weak  gravy,  strained.  Pepper  and  salt  the  fish,  cover 
and  bake  ten  minutes  to  the  pound.  Take  up  then  and  sift  dry, 
fine  crumbs  thickly  all  over  it.  Put  dots  of  butter  on  these.  Set 
in  the  oven,  uncovered,  to  brown  while  you  strain  the  gravy  from 
the  pan,  thicken  with  butter  rolled  in  browned  flour,  add  the  juice 
of  half  a  lemon,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese 
and  a  little  onion  juice.  Boil  one  minute,  pour  a  few  spoonfuls 
carefully  upon  the  crumb-crust  of  the  fish,  the  rest  into  a  boat. 

This  is  an  elegant  company  dish  of  fish,  and  easy  of  prepara- 
tion. 

Baked  fillets  of  halibut 

Cut  slices  of  halibut,  weighing  a  pound  each,  and  an  inch  thick. 
Cut  each  into  three  strips,  two  fingers  wide,  lay  in  lemon  juice 


342  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

and  salad  oil  for  an  hour;  then  cook  precisely  as  directed  above. 
When  you  sift  the  crumbs  over  the  fillets,  cover  all  sides;  then 
proceed  as  with  the  baked  cod,  taking  care  to  arrange  the  fillets 
for  browning  so  that  they  will  not  touch  one  another. 

Baked  halibut 

Lay  a  piece  of  halibut  weighing  about  four  pounds  in  cold  water 
(salted)  for  half  an  hour,  then  wipe  dry  and  lay  in  a  covered 
roaster.  Pour  over  it  a  cupful  of  boiling  water,  in  which  have 
been  melted  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  Bake  until  tender  and 
keep  hot  on  a  platter  while  you  thicken  the  gravy  left  in  the  pan 
with  browned  flour  and  butter,  and  season  with  a  teaspoonful, 
each,  of  lemon  and  onion  juice,  a  little  celery  salt  and  a  wineglass- 
ful  of  claret.  Strain,  and  send  to  the  table  in  a  gravy-boat. 

Baked  halibut  steak  (No.  1) 

Lay  the  steak  in  salted  water  for  fifteen  minutes;  wipe  and 
put  into  a  baking-pan.  Rub  the  steak  with  butter,  sprinkle  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  pour  over  and  around  it  a  cupful  of  milk. 
Bake,  basting  every  ten  minutes  until  the  milk  is  absorbed.  Serve 
with  drawn  butter. 

Send  around  fried  potatoes  with  it. 

Baked  halibut  steak  (No.  2) 

Wash,  wipe  and  lay  in  marinade  of  olive  oil  and  lemon  juice 
for  one  hour.  Sprinkle,  then,  liberally,  with  minced  onion,  pars- 
ley and  lemon  juice,  turning  over  and  over  that  the  steak  may  be 
covered.  Now,  lay  upon  the  grating  of  your  bakepan.  Make  a 
white  sauce  by  stirring  one  cupful  of  hot  milk  into  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  butter  cooked  into  a  roux  with  one  of  flour.  Season  it  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  pour  it  over  the  fish.  Cover  the  surface 
with  fine  crumbs  moistened  in  melted  butter  and  bake  until  the 
fish  is  done,  about  twelve  minutes  to  the  pound. 


FISH  343 

Halibut  steak  baked  with  tomatoes 
(A  Creole  recipe.) 

Make  a  rich  sauce  of  tomatoes,  fresh  or  canned,  seasoning  with 
butter  rolled  in  flour,  sugar,  pepper,  onion  juice  and  salt,  adding, 
if  you  have  it,  a  sweet  green  pepper,  seeded  and  minced.  Cook 
fifteen  minutes,  strain,  rubbing  through  a  colander,  and  cool. 
Lay  the  halibut  in  oil  and  lemon  juice  for  an  hour,  place  upon 
the  grating  of  your  covered  roaster,  pour  the  sauce  over  it ;  cover 
and  bake  twelve  minutes  to  the  pound  if  the  oven  be  good.  Sift 
Parmesan  cheese  over  the  fish,  and  cook  five  minutes  longer. 
Serve  upon  a  hot  dish,  pouring  the  sauce  over  it. 

Baked  fillets  of  flounder 

Take  the  backbone  out  of  the  fish  and  cut  each  half  into  two 
neat,  long  slices.  Roll  each  piece  up  and  pin  with  a  wooden  skewer. 
A  new  toothpick  will  do.  Lay  in  salad  oil  and  lemon  juice  for 
an  hour,  setting  in  the  ice  to  make  the  fish  firm  while  soaking 
in  the  marinade. 

Roll  in  fine  dry  crumbs,  peppered  and  salted;  in  beaten  egg, 
and  again  in  crumbs.  Cover  the  grating  of  your  bakepan  with 
thin  shavings  of  salt  pork,  lay  the  fillets  upon  them,  sprinkle  thick- 
ly with  finely-minced  onion  and  olives,  and  bake,  covered,  twelve 
minutes  for  each  pound.  Lift  carefully  to  a  hot  dish ;  withdraw 
the  skewers.  Garnish  with  sliced  lemon  and  send  to  table. 

Fried  fillets  of  flounder 

Cut,  trim  and  marinade  as  for  baking.  When  you  take  them 
from  the  ice,  roll  as  for  baking,  salt  and  pepper,  roll  in  crumbs, 
then  in  egg,  and  again  in  crumbs.  Leave  on  ice  for  half  an 
hour  longer,  and  fry  in  deep  hot  cottolene,  salad  oil,  or  other  fat. 
Drain,  withdraw  the  skewers  and  serve  with  sauce  tartare. 

Baked  fresh,  mackerel 

Marinade  for  half  an  hour  in  olive  oil  and  lemon  juice.  Lay 
thin  slices  of  pork  upon  the  grating  of  a  baking-pan,  lay  the 


344  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

mackerel  on  the  pork,  skim  down,  sprinkle  lightly  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  twenty-five  minutes. 
Serve  with  tomato  sauce. 

Boiled  salmon-trout 

Select  a  small  fish  for  this  purpose,  as  a  large  one  will  not  fit 
into  the  ordinary-sized  fish-kettle.  Have  in  your  kettle  enough 
salted  boiling  water  to  cover  the  fish,  and  add  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  vinegar  to  the  water.  Sew  the  fish  up  in  a  piece  of  firm  cheese- 
cloth, and  lay  it  carefully  in  the  kettle.  After  it  begins  to  boil, 
allow  twelve  minutes  to  the  pound.  When  done  take  out  of  the 
water  carefully,  remove  the  cloth  and  transfer  the  fish  to  a  hot 
platter.  Sprinkle  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  pour  over  it  a  well- 
seasoned  white  sauce.  Garnish  the  dish  with  slices  of  lemon  and 
sprigs  of  parsley. 

Baked  salmon 

Wipe  your  fish  with  a  damp  cloth,  but  do  not  lay  it  in  water. 
Rub  with  a  little  salad  oil  and  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Lay  in  a  baking-pan  and  dash  over  it  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  in 
which  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  have  been  melted.  Bake, 
covered,  basting  every  fifteen  minutes.  Whan  done  transfer  to 
a  hot  platter  and  set  in  the  open  oven  while  you  thicken  the  gravy 
left  in  the  pan  with  corn-starch  wet  with  cold  water,  and  sea- 
son it  with  lemon  juice  and  a  dash  of  onion  juice.  A  little  to- 
mato catsup  is  an  improvement.  Boil  up  once  and  pour  into  a 
gravy-boat.  Send  to  the  table  with  the  salmon,  which  may  be 
garnished  with  sprigs  of  parsley. 

Baked  pickerel 

Clean  and  wash  the  fish.  Choose  a  large  fine  one  for  this 
purpose.  Lay  it  on  the  grating  of  your  bakepan,  dredge  with 
salt  and  pepper,  butter  well  and  dredge  with  flour.  Put  into  a 
hot  oven,  and  when  the  flour  begins  to  brown,  baste  with  butter, 
water  and  lemon  juice.  Cook  twelve  minutes  to  the  pound,  re- 
move, and  serve  with  oyster  sauce. 


FRIED   TROUT 


pH 


FISH 


FISH  345 

Boned  baked  pickerel 

Have  your  fishmonger  take  out  the  backbone  when  he  has  split 
the  fish  lengthwise,  also  have  him  extract  every  other  bone  he 
can  get  out  without  tearing  the  flesh  too  much.  Marinade  for  an 
hour  in  a  bath  of  olive  oil  and  lemon  juice.  Cover  the  grating 
of  your  bakepan  with  thin  shavings  of  salt  pork,  lay  the  fish  upon 
this,  skin-side  downward,  wash  with  melted  butter,  bake,  cov- 
ered, half  an  hour,  baste  and  cook  ten  minutes  more.  Serve  with 
Hollandaise  sauce1. 

Baked  salmon-trout  with  cream  gravy 

Clean  and  wash,  wipe  dry,  and  go  all  over  it,  inside  and  out, 
with  melted  butter  and  lemon  juice.  Lay  upon  the  grating  of 
your  bakepan,  pour  in  a  little  boiling  water,  not  quite  touching  the 
fish,  and  bake  twelve  minutes  to  the  pound,  basting  twice  with 
butter  and  twice  with  the  water  in  the  pan  below. 

Keep  hot  in  heated  dish,  covered,  set  over  boiling  water  while 
you  strain  the  gravy  left  in  the  pan,  add  to  it  a  cupful  of  hot  milk 
(half  cream,  if  you  can  get  it)  scalded  with  a  pinch  of  soda, 
thickened  with  a  white  roux  of  butter  cooked  with  flour,  and 
seasoned  with  paprika,  salt  and  a  little  minced  parsley.  Pour 
over  the  fish,  let  it  stand  three  minutes  over  hot  water  and  serve. 

Fried  brook  trout 

Clean  with  care,  roll  in  peppered  and  salted  flour;  set  on  ice 
for  an  hour,  and  fry  immediately  in  deep  fat  to  a  golden-brown. 
Have  a  mat  of  folded  and  heated  tissue  paper  fringed  at  the  ends, 
and  lay  the  drained  fish  upon  it.  Eat  at  once. 

Broiled  soft-shell  crabs 

Lift  the  projecting  "wings"  of  the  upper  shell,  and  cut  or  pull 
off  the  "feathers"  you  will  find  under  them.  Next  trim  off  the 
tail,  or  flap,  or  "apron,"  a  round  piece  of  softer  shell  on  the  under 
side  of  the  upper. 


346  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Wash  quickly  and  cook  without  delay  lest  they  die  on  your 
hands. 

Wash  with  butter,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  cayenne  pepper,  lay 
within  a  reversible  wire  broiler,  and  cook  over  clear  coals  ten 
minutes,  turning  twice  to  broil  both  sides. 

Serve  upon  thin  slices  of  buttered  toast. 

Fried  soft-shell  crabs 

Prepare  as  directed  in  preceding  recipe,  sprinkle  with  cayenne 
and  salt,  roll  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  fine  crumbs,  again  in  egg, 
and  once  more  in  crumbs  and  fry  in  deep,  hot  fat. 

Garnish  with  water-cress,  and  pass  sliced  lemon  with  them. 

Lobster  broiled  in  the  shell 

Kill  the  lobster  by  cutting  the  tail  off  with  one  stroke  of  the 
knife,  just  where  it  joins  the  body.  With  another  clean  cut  di- 
vide him  lengthwise  into  two  equal  parts,  shell  and  all.  Take  out 
the  coral,  the  one  long  intestine  and  the  stomach.  Crack  the  claws 
with  a  hammer.  Put  within  a  buttered  broiler,  split  side  down- 
ward, and  broil  over  a  fierce  fire.  As  soon  as  the  juice  begins  to 
run  freely  withdraw  long  enough  to  wash  liberally  with  melted 
butter,  and  return  to  the  fire,  turning  often  to  keep  in  the  juices. 
Cook  about  ten  minutes  on  the  split  or  flesh  side,  and  eight  upon 
the  other. 

Have  ready  a  sauce  made  by  rubbing  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter  to  a  cream  with  lemon  juice  and  finely-minced  parsley, 
adding  a  little  cayenne,  and  wash  the  lobster  with  this  while  hiss- 
ing hot.  Serve  half  a  lobster  to  each  guest,  with  oyster  forks 
for  extracting  the  meat. 

Pass  more  sauce  for  those  who  wish  it. 

Lobster  baked  in  shell 

Prepare  as  for  broiling,  but  lay,  shell  downward,  in  a  bakepan, 
cover  and  set  in  a  quick  oven,  opening  in  ten  minutes  to  wash 
with  butter.  They  should  be  done  in  twenty  minutes,  when  wash 
freely  with  the  lemon  and  butter  sauce. 


FISH  347 

Lobster  scalloped  in  shells 

Two  cupfuls  of  lobster  meat,  cut  into  small  dice.  One  cupful  of 
white  stock,  and  the  same  of  unskimmed  milk.  Two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  butter  made  into  a  white  roux  with  one  tablespoonful  of 
flour.  Salt  and  paprika  to  taste.  Minced  parsley  and  juice  of 
half  a  lemon.  Beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Halves  of  two  lobster 
shells,  cleaned.  Pinch  of  soda  in  milk. 

Stir  the  hot  stock  and  the  scalded  milk  into  the  roux,  season, 
boil  once;  remove  from  the  fire,  add  the  eggs  and  lobster  dice 
and  fill  the  shells.  Cover  with  fine  crumbs,  rounded,  dot  with 
butter,  sprinkle  with  cayenne  and  bake  to  a  delicate  brown. 

Lobster  a  la  Newburg 

Pick  all  the  meat  from  the  shells  of  two  good-sized  freshly- 
boiled  lobsters  and  cut  into  one-inch  pieces,  which  place  in  a 
saucepan  over  a  hot  range,  together  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter,  and  season  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  one  of  cayenne.  Cook 
five  minutes,  pour  in  a  glass  of  sherry ;  simmer  five  minutes,  add 
the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs  and  a  cupful  of  cream,  stirring  all 
the  time.  When  it  thickens,  pour  out  and  serve. 

Do  not  omit  to  put  a  pinch  of  soda  in  the  cream. 

Stewed  terrapin 
(A  Maryland  recipe.) 

Drop  the  "diamond-backs"  into  boiling  water  and  cook  until 
the  heads  and  feet  "skin  off."  This  should  be  in  less  than  an 
hour.  Let  them  get  perfectly  cold.  Strip  off  the  shells  and  ex- 
tract the  heart  and  entrails  carefully,  lest  an  incautious  touch  rup- 
ture the  gall-bag  and  ruin  everything.  Cut  off  the  head,  tail  and 
feet.  Cut  the  meat  up  small  with  a  sharp  knife,  put  into  a  sauce- 
pan, cover  with  hot  water  and  simmer  fifteen  minutes.  Rub  the 
yolks  of  half  a  dozen  hard-boiled  eggs  to  a  powder  and  work  in 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  Heat  a  cupful  of  cream  in  another 
vessel  (with  a  pinch  of  soda)  and  work  by  degrees  into  the  egg 
and  butter,  season  with  salt  and  cayenne  and  mix  gradually  with 


348  MARION   HAKLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

the  hot  terrapin.     Cook  one  minute,  add  a  glass  of  sherry  and 
pour  out. 

Fricasseed  snapping  turtle 

Have  your  fish  merchant  clean  your  turtle  after  he  has  killed 
him  by  throwing  him  into  boiling  water.  Cut  the  turtle  into  neat 
dice,  sprinkle  with  salt,  pepper,  onion  juice,  a  dash  of  kitchen 
bouquet  and  a  tablespoonful  of  mushroom  catsup.  Turn  into  a 
saucepan,  add  just  enough  cold  water  to  cover  the  meat,  fit  a  top 
on  the  vessel  and  simmer  for  half  an  hour.  Now  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  browned  flour  rubbed  to  a  paste  with  a  great  spoon- 
ful of  butter ;  when  this  is  blended  with  the  liquid  in  the  pan, 
add  a  glass  of  sherry  and  stir  in  very  gradually  the  beaten  'yolk 
of  an  egg.  Bring  to  the  boil  and  remove  from  the  fire.  Turn 
into  a  deep  heated  dish. 

A  fricassee  of  crabs 

Cut  the  meat  into  inch-length  pieces,  and  as  evenly  as  possible. 
Put  into  a  saucepan  a  mixture  of  butter,  lemon  juice  and  minced 
parsley,  cayenne  and  salt.  Heat  slowly,  and  when  it  bubbles  stir 
in  the  crab  meat.  Simmer  gently  for  fifteen  minutes.  Have 
ready  in  another  vessel  a  tablespoonful  of  cream  for  each  crab, 
heated  with  a  pinch  of  soda.  Thicken  with  a  teaspoonful  of  but- 
ter rubbed  into  one  of  flour,  and  turn  upon  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs,  or  one  for  every  pair  of  crabs ;  stir  for  one  minute  over  the 
fire,  pour  into  a  hot  covered  dish,  stir  in  the  hot  crab  meat;  set 
in  boiling  water  for  three  minutes,  and  serve. 

Oyster  pate's 

Into  a  pound  of  flour  chop  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  cold, 
firm  butter,  until  you  have  a  coarse  yellow  powder.  Have  all 
your  utensils  cold.  Wet  the  flour  and  butter  with  three  gills 
of  iced  water  and,  with  a  spoon,  work  into  a  mass.  Turn  upon 
a  floured  pastry  board,  roll  and  fold,  then  roll  again  three  times, 
lightly  and  quickly.  Fold  and  put  in  the  ice-box  for  several 
hours.  Roll  into  a  sheet  half  an  inch  thick,  and  with  a  cutter 


FISH  349 

cut  into  rounds  like  biscuits.  Pile  these  three  deep,  and  with  a 
small  cutter  pass  half-way  through  each  pile.  Put  into  the  oven, 
which  should  be  very  hot,  and  bake  to  a  light,  delicate  brown. 
The  pastry  should  be  very  light.  When  done  remove  from  the 
oven,  and  lift  off  the  little  round  in  the  top  of  each  pate.  This 
will  serve  as  a  cover.  With  a  small  spoon  scoop  out  the  soft 
paste  from  the  center,  thus  leaving  a  cavity  to  be  filled  with  the 
oyster  mixture. 

Cook  together  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  flour,  and  pour 
upon  them  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  rich  milk — half  cream,  if  you 
have  it.  Stir  to  a  smooth  sauce,  add  the  drained  oysters,  and  cook 
just  long  enough  for  the  edges  to  begin  to  ruffle.  Now  beat  in 
gradually  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg ;  cook  two  minutes,  season  with 
celery  salt  and  white  pepper  and  fill  the  shells  with  the  mixture. 
Fit  on  the  little  covers,  and  set  in  the  oven  until  all  are  very 
hot. 

Oyster  fritters 

Chop  thirty  oysters.  Make  a  batter  of  two  beaten  eggs,  a  half 
pint  of  milk  and  a  pint  of  prepared  flour.  If  the  batter  is  too  stiff, 
add  more  milk.  Stir  the  oysters  into  the  batter,  and  drop  this 
by  the  spoonful  into  deep,  boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat.  As  the 
fritters  brown  on  one  side,  turn  them  over.  Drain  in  a  hot 
colander  as  soon  as  well  colored. 

Oyster  pie 

Line  a  deep  pie-plate  with  puff  paste,  fill  the  interior  with  bread 
crusts  (to  be  removed  later)  and  fit  on  a  top  crust,  buttered  about 
the  edge  on  the  under  side  that  it  may  be  easily  taken  off.  Stew 
a  quart  of  oysters  for  five  minutes ;  stir  in  very  slowly  a  cupful  of 
thick  white  sauce  and  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs.  When  the 
paste  is  done  take  off  the  top,  remove  the  bread  crusts,  fill  the 
center  with  the  creamed  oysters,  replace  the  top  crust  and  set  the 
pie  in  the  oven  for  five  minutes  before  sending  to  the  table. 


350  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Pickled  oysters 

Bring  a  quart  of  oysters,  with  their  liquor,  to  the  boil ;  immedi- 
ately remove  the  oysters  and  drop  into  a  large  glass  jar.  To  the 
liquor  add  six  whole  cloves,  six  whole  pepper-corns,  six  blades 
of  mace  broken  into  bits,  a  small  red  pepper,  a  cupful  of  vinegar 
and  a  little  celery  salt.  Boil  up  once  and  pour  immediately  over 
the  oysters.  Keep  in  a  dark  place  until  wanted. 

Jumbolaya 

(An  East  Indian  recipe.) 

Wash  half  a  cupful  of  raw  rice  well  and  drop  into  a  pint  of 
strained  tomato  juice,  made  boiling  hot.  Cook  fast  for  twenty 
minutes,  or  until  the  rice  is  soft,  but  not  broken ;  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter  worked  to  a  paste  with  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
curry;  simmer  ten  minutes,  salt  to  taste  and  put  in  twenty-five 
fine  oysters.  Cook  until  they  ruffle,  and  pour  out. 

This  is  a  good  entree  for  a  family  dinner.  Pass  thin  slices  of 
buttered  graham  bread  and  ice-cold  bananas  with  it. 

Clam  pie 

Fry  a  quarter  pound  of  fat  salt  pork  crisp ;  strain  out  the  scraps 
and  fry  a  sliced  onion  in  the  same  fat.  Strain  again,  add  a  pint 
of  clam  juice  with  a  lump  of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  and  make 
hot  while  you  prepare  the  "pie." 

In  the  bottom  of  a  buttered  bakedish  put  a  layer  of  clams,  on 
them  one  of  milk  crackers,  previously  soaked  in  hot  milk,  but- 
tered, peppered  and  salted,  more  clams  and  so  on  until  the  dish 
is  nearly  full.  Cover  the  last  stratum  of  clams  with  parboiled 
potatoes  cut  very  thin,  pepper  and  salt,  and  sprinkle  these  with  a 
tablespoonful  of  grated  onion  and  the  same  of  parsley.  Now 
pour  the  hot  liquor  over  all,  cover  with  a  good  pie  crust  and  bake 
half  an  hour  in  a  good  oven,  covered,  then  brown. 


FISH  351 

Clam  cocktails 

Put  a  dozen  small  clams  in  an  ice-cold  bowl  and  pour  over 
them  a  half  tablespoonful,  each,  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  vinegar, 
lemon  juice  and  tomato  catsup,  a  teaspoonful  of  horseradish  and 
a  saltspoonful,  each,  of  salt  and  Tabasco  sauce.  Mix  and  bury 
in  ice  for  an  hour  before  serving  in  two  small  glasses. 

Oysters  with  Parmesan  cheese 

(Contributed) 

Drain  the  oysters  free  from  all  liquor.  Lay  in  a  well-buttered 
baking-dish,  sprinkle  over  with  finely-minced  parsley,  season  with 
salt  and  pepper;  over  all  pour  one-half  glass  of  champagne 
and  cover  thickly  with  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Put  in  the  oven 
until  nicely  browned  on  top.  Take  out;  drain  all  the  fat  from 
it,  and  serve  while  very  hot  in  the  dish  in  which  it  was  baked. 

Oyster  cutlets 
(Contributed) 

Drain  off  the  liquor  and  wash  the  oysters  well.  Put  them  into 
a  saucepan  over  the  fire  and  heat  until  the  edges  curl,  being  care- 
ful to  stir  all  the  time.  Strain  the  liquor.  Chop  the  oysters  fine. 
Rub  together  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one  rounded  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  for  each  pint  of  chopped  oysters.  Add  the  oys- 
ter liquor  and  cook  until  quite  thick.  Then  add  the  chopped  oys- 
ters and  the  yolk  of  one  egg,  beaten  well.  After  taking  from  the 
fire  add  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  tablespoonful  of  minced 
parsley  and  the  juice  of  one-half  a  lemon.  Let  all  stand  until  per- 
fectly cold.  Form  into  cutlets,  dip  into  egg,  then  into  bread- 
crumbs and  fry  in  hot  fat. 

Oyster  canapes 

(Contributed) 

Toast  ten  slices  of  buttered  bread  and  place  in  the  oven  to  keep 
warm.  Wash  and  drain  one  quart  of  oysters.  Throw  them  into 


352 


MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 


a  hot  pan  and  stir  until  the  edges  are  curled.  Add  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  butter,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  dash  of  cayenne. 
Dish  on  the  slices  of  toast,  garnish  with  a  thin  slice  of  lemon  for 
each  one,  and  serve  at  once. 


SAUCES  FOR  FISH  AND  MEAT 

Drawn  butter  ("white  sauce") 

Heat  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  saucepan.  When  it 
bubbles  put  in  (all  at  once)  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir 
from  the  sides  towards  the  center  of  the  pan  until  the  ingredients 
are  well  mixed.  Have  ready-heated  a  cupful  of  milk,  add  to  this 
the  "roux"  gradually,  and  beat  to  a  smooth  cream.  Season  with 
white  pepper  and  salt,  and,  if  you  like,  a  little  onion  juice. 

Egg  sauce 

Make  as  above,  beating  the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs  into  the 
thickened  milk,  and  if  for  fish,  adding  the  yolk  and  white  of  a 
hard-boiled  egg  chopped  fine,  also  a  little  minced  parsley. 

Brown  sauce 

Make  as  you  would  white,  but  substitute  boiling  water  for  the 
milk,  and  browned  flour  for  white.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  kitchen 
bouquet,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  pepper  and  salt. 

Sauce  tartare  (No.  1) 

Make  a  pint  of  rhayonnaise  dressing.  Into  this  beat  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  mustard,  a  tablespoonful  of  minced  parsley,  a  teaspoonful, 
each,  of  chopped  pickle  and  minced  capers,  a  dozen  drops  of  onion 
juice.  Beat  for  a  minute,  and  serve  in  a  sauceboat. 

Sauce  tartare  (No.  2) 

Make  a  cupful  of  drawn  butter  (using  boiling  water,  not  milk). 
Beat  in  a  teaspoonful  of  French  mustard,  half  as  much  onion 
23  353 


354  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

juice,  a  little  cayenne  and  salt,  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  finely- 
chopped  pickle  and  the  beaten  yolk  of  a  raw  egg  at  the  last. 

Hollandaise  sauce 

Into  one  cupful  of  drawn  butter  beat  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  then  a 
good  teaspoonful  of  best  salad  oil,  dropping  as  you  would  for 
mayonnaise.  Add,  then,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  a  pinch  of 
pepper,  one  of  salt,  and  the  same  of  sugar,  and  serve  at  once. 

Bechamel  sauce  for  meat 

A  roux  of  butter  and  flour  should  be  thinned  with  a  cupful  of 
veal  or  chicken  stock,  seasoned  with  onion  juice,  a  small  carrot, 
sliced,  pepper  and  salt.  Strain  the  stock  before  mixing  with 
the  roux.  Have  ready  a  cupful  of  rich  milk  or  cream,  heated  with 
a  pinch  of  soda;  draw  the  hot  stock  and  roux  from  the  fire,  stir 
in  the  cream,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Bechamel  sauce  for  fish 

Put  the  bones,  head  and  a  few  ounces  of  fish  meat  in  cold  water 
over  the  fire,  with  an  onion  and  a  small  carrot,  sliced,  also  a  bay 
leaf;  boil  down  to  one  cupful  of  liquid,  and  use  instead  of  veal 
or  chicken  stock  in  last  recipe.  In  all  other  respects  make  in 
the  same  way. ' 

Oyster  sauce 

To  a  white  roux  of  butter  and  flour  add  a  cupful  of  boiling 
liquid  made  by  cooking  a  dozen  oysters  in  hot  water  for  two 
minutes.  Drain  the  oysters  (which  should  be  very  small)  and 
keep  warm  while  you  stir  the  thinned  roux  to  a  smooth  cream, 
and  season  it  with  a  dash  of  cayenne,  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon 
juice  and  a  little  salt.  Boil  one  minute,  put  in  the  oysters  and 
take  at  once  from  the  fire. 


SAUCES    FOR   FISH   AND   MEAT  355 

Lobster  sauce 

Make  a  rich-drawn  butter  and  beat  into  it  the  coral  of  a  lobster 
worked  smooth  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Add  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon,  cayenne  and  salt.  Finally,  add  half  a  cupful  of  lob- 
ster meat,  minced  as  fine  as  powder.  Heat  and  serve. 

Horseradish  sauce 

Into  a  cupful  of  drawn  butter  beat  a  great  spoonful  of  grated 
horseradish  wet  with  lemon  juice,  and  work  to  creamy  whiteness. 

Anchovy  sauce 

Beat  a  tablespoonful  of  anchovy  paste  into  a  cupful  of  drawn 
butter,  adding  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon  and  a  dash  of  cayenne  or 
paprika.  0t 

Shrimp  sauce 

Into  a  cupful  of  drawn  butter  beat  a  good  teaspoonful  of  an- 
chovy sauce,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  half  a  can  of  shrimps 
minced  fine  and  made  very  hot  in  a  tablespoonful  of  boiling  but- 
ter. Simmer  for  two  minutes  and  serve. 

An  excellent  fish  sauce. 

Celery  sauce 

Boil  half  a  cupful  of  minced  celery  in  a  cupful  of  hot  water 
for  fifteen  minutes.  Strain  through  a  cloth,  pressing  hard.  Re- 
turn the  liquor  to  the  fire  and  boil  up.  Then  cook  with  it  a  roux 
made  of  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  the  same  of  flour.  Have 
ready  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  beaten  light.  Pour  the  hot  sauce  upon 
it,  stir  less  than  one  minute  over  the  fire,  season  with  salt  and 
paprika  and  pour  out. 

A  nice  accompaniment  to  boiled  fowl  and  to  boiled  mutton. 


356  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   JJOOK 

Tomato  sauce 

Peel  and  slice  a  quart  of  tomatoes;  cook  twenty  minutes  and 
strain  through  a  coarse  bag  into  a  saucepan.  Season  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  onion  juice,  one  of  sugar,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and 
when  it  boils  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  cooked  to  a  roux 
with  one  of  flour.  Simmer  two  minutes  and  serve. 

Caper  sauce 

Into  a  cupful  of  good  drawn  butter  stir  a  great  spoonful  of 
minced  capers  and  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice.  ^ 

Maitre  dliotel  sauce 

Beat  two  tablespoonfuls  of  soft  butter  to  a  cream  with  the  juice 
of  half  a  lemon  and  a  tablespoonful  of  finely-minced  parsley.  It 
should  be  a  fine,  pale  greei^rhen  done.  Serve  cold  with  hot  fish. 

Mint  sauce 

Chop  six  sprays  of  mint  very  fine,  and  add  to  half  a  cupful  of 
vinegar  in  which  have  been  dissolved  two  tablespoonfuls  of  white 
sugar  and  a  dash  of  pepper. 

Serve  cold  with  roast  lamb. 

Onion  or  soubise  sauce 

Boil  two  onions  of  fair  size  in  two  waters  and  until  soft  all 
through ;  mince  and  mix  with  a  cupful  of  drawn  butter.  Season 
with  pepper  and  salt,  beat  to  a  cream  over  the  fire,  and  when  very 
hot,  serve. 

Bread  sauce 

Heat  a  cupful  of  milk  and  season  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter, 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste  and  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice.  Boil  up 
and  stir  in  lightly  half  a  cupful  of  fine  bread-crumbs,  previously 
dried,  but  not  colored  in  the  oven.  They  should  be  tossed  up 
several  times  while  drying  to  prevent  clotting,  and  be  very  crisp. 

Serve  with  boiled  chicken. 


SAUCES    FOR    FISH    AND    MEAT  357 

Bearnaise  sauce 

Beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  very  light,  put  into  a  round-bot- 
tomed saucepan  and  set  in  one  of  boiling  water ;  stir  into  it,  a  few 
drops  at  a  time,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  salad  oil,  heating  as  you 
stir ;  then,  as  gradually,  the  same  quantity  of  boiling  water ;  next, 
one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice,  a  dash  of  cayenne  and  salt. 

It  is  served  with  all  sorts  of  fish,  also  with  chops,  cutlets  and 
steaks. 

Claret  or  Bordelaise  sauce 

Make  a  brown  sauce  by  substituting  browned  flour  for  white 
in  the  roux,  adding  a  teaspoonful  of  kitchen  bouquet.  Season 
with  onion  juice,  salt  and  pepper,  boil  one  minute,  pour  in  a  wine- 
glassful  of  claret,  heat  for  half  a  minute  more,  and  serve. 

Serve  with  roast  meats  and  poultry. 

Cream  cucumber  sauce 

Pare  and  mince  with  a  keen  knife  two  cucumbers  of  fair  size. 
Drain  off  the  liquid  without  pressing,  letting  it  drip  for  two 
minutes.  Have  ready  a  chilled  bowl  rubbed  with  a  clove  of 
garlic.  Put  the  mince  into  it,  season  with  white  pepper,  salt,  a 
teaspoonful  of  onion  juice  and  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice. 

Mix  lightly  into  it  with  a  silver  fork  a  cupful  of  whipped  cream 
into  which  has  been  beaten  a  pinch  of  soda. 

Serve  very  cold  with  fish. 

Plain  cucumber  sauce 

When  the  -cucumbers  have  been  minced,  drained  and  turned  into 
the  chilled  bowl  scented  with  cut  garlic,  mix  with  them  a  good 
French  dressing  of  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil,  one-third  as  much 
lemon  juice,  a  little  salt  and  pepper. 

N.  B. — You  may  substitute  for  the  garlic  a  tablespoonful  of 
minced  chives  blended  with  the  dressing. 

Serve  cold  with  fish,  and  quickly,  before  the  cucumbers  wilt. 


358  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Cranberry  sauce 

Wash  and  pick  over  carefully  a  quart  of  cranberries.  Put  into 
the  inner  vessel  of  a  double  boiler,  fill  the  outer  with  boiling 
water  and  cook,  keeping  the  cranberries  closely  covered  until  they 
are  broken  to  pieces.  Rub  through  your  vegetable  press  into  a 
saucepan,  sweeten  abundantly,  bring  to  a  boil  (barely),  and  turn 
into  a  wet  mold  to  form. 

Apple  sauce 

Pare,  core  and  quarter  tart  apples,  dropping  into  cold  water  as 
you  do  this.  Put  over  the  fire  dripping  wet  and  cover  closely  to 
keep  in  the  steam.  When  they  are  heated  through,  open  and  stir 
up  from  the  bottom.  When  soft  and  broken,  rub  through  colan- 
der or  vegetable  press,  sweeten  to  taste  while  hot  and  set  away  to 
cool. 

Serve  with  roast  pork  and  roast  ducks. 
Cl^j^ 

Jelly  sauce 

Make  a  cupful  of  a  brown  sauce  of  butter,  browned  flour  and  a 
little  caramel.  Heat  boiling  hot  and  beat  in  four  or  five  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  currant  or  other  tart  jelly. 

Serve  with  game,  lamb  or  mutton. 

Espagnole  sauce 
(Contributed) 

Put  four  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  saucepan.  When  hot 
stir  into  it  five  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.  Stir  until  very  brown. 
Add  two  cupfuls  of  brown  stock  and  one  tablespoonful  of  Worces- 
ter sauce.  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Let  the  sauce  boil  well  and 
remove  from  the  fire.  Serve  with  chops  or  steak. 


SAUCES    FOR   FISH    AND    MEAT  359 

Parsley  sauce 

(Contributed) 

To  a  good  white  sauce  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  finely- 
chopped  parsley  and  a  little  green  fruit  coloring  and  let  it  come  to 
a  boil. 

Cider  sauce 

(Contributed) 

Put  into  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  one  tablespoonful  of  butter 
and  when  this  begins  to  bubble  stir  into  it  one  tablespoonful  of 
flour ;  cook  for  one  minute,  then  add  slowly  one  teacupful  of 
highly-seasoned  stock;  cook  for  ten  minutes,  add  a  cupful  of 
cider,  and  when  it  again  comes  to  a  boil,  .strain  and  serve.  This 
sauce  is  excellent  with  boiled  ham. 

Giblet  sauce 

(Contributed) 

Boil  the  giblets  until  tender.  Chop  them,  but  not  too  fine. 
Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  saucepan,  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour.  Add  slowly  a  cupful  of  the  water  in  which  the 
giblets  have  been  boiled  and  a  cup  and  a  half  of  rich  milk.  Add 
co  this  the  chopped  giblets  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Serve 
in  sauce-boat. 

Cauliflower  sauce 

(Contributed) 

To  a  pint  of  white  sauce  add  a  cupful  of  chopped  cauliflower. 
Reheat,  and  when  ready  to  serve  stir  in  a  teaspoonful  of  butter 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice. 

Champagne  sauce 

(Contributed) 

Into  one  cupful  of  champagne  put  two  cloves,  four  pepper  corns, 
one  bay  leaf  and  a  little  sugar.  Let  all  simmer  for  five  minutes. 


360  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Then  add  one  cupful   of  brown   sauce.     Simmer   for  ten  min- 
utes more  and  strain.     To  be  served  with  ham. 

Port  wine  sauce 

(Contributed) 

Port  wine  sauce  is  made  the  same  as  champagne  sauce,  except 
that  port  wine  is  used  instead  of  champagne. 

Olive  sauce 

(Contributed) 

Make  a  brown  sauce  as  follows :  Put  four  tablespoonfuls  of  but- 
ter into  a  saucepan ;  when  hot  add  four  and  a  half  tablespoonfuls 
of  flour  and  stir  until  very  brown ;  add  two  cupfuls  of  brown  stock 
and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Remove  the  stones  from  five  olives 
and  boil  for  five  minutes  in  water  to  which  one  tablespoonful  of 
vinegar  has  been  added.  Drain  and  mince  and  add  to  the  sauce. 


FAMILIAR  TALK 

IS  IMPKOMPTU  HOSPITALITY  A  LOST  ART 

WITHOUT  staying  to  prove  my  premises  I  take  it  for  granted 
nobody  will  dispute  that  what  it  pleases  me  to  call  impromptu 
hospitality  is  an  out-of-date  virtue. 

In  the  very  olden  time  there  were  those  who  were  backward  in 
the  practice  of  it.  Else  the  fisherman  Apostle  would  not  have 
enjoined  upon  the  "strangers  scattered  throughout  Pontus,  Gala- 
tia,  Cappadocia,  Asia  and  Bithynia,"  to  "use  hospitality,  one  to 
another,  without  grudging." 

An  ancient  writer  says :  "The  primitive  Christians  made  one 
principal  part  of  their  duty  to  consist  in  the  exercise  of  hospital- 
ity; and  they  were  so  exact  in  the  practice  of  it  that  the  very 
heathens  admired  them  for  it." 

From  which  we  gather  that  the  Apostolic  admonition  had  fallen 
into  good  soil  and  brought  forth  much  fruit. 

It  would  be  interesting  to  know  when  the  quid  pro  quo  ele- 
ment entered  into  and  denied  the  noble  virtue.  The  primitive 
Christians  aforesaid  had  no  knowledge  of  this  alloy,  while  the 
recollection  of  the  Master's  teaching  was  fresh  in  their  minds : 

"For  if  ye  lend  to  them  of  whom  you  hope  to  receive,  what 
thank  have  ye  ?" 

The  principle  that  moves  me  to  invite  those  to  sit  at  my  table 
and  sleep  under  my  roof  who  can  return  the  favor  in  kind,  or  be 
useful  in  turn  to  me  in  some  way,  is  barter,  not  hospitality. 
When  I  give  a  feast — be  it  afternoon  tea,  or  the  gravest  of  social 
functions,  a  dinner  party— to  five  hundred,  or  to  five  people  who 
have  invited  me  at  some  time  to  their  houses — and  because  of  the 
obligation  under  which  their  invitations  have  laid  me — I  may  be 
honest.  I  am  not  generous.  I  pay  a  debt.  I  do  not  exercise  a 
grace. 

361 


362  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

The  former  times  were  not  better  in  all  respects  than  these. 
But  for  divers  reasons  they  were  more  hospitable  times.  It  was 
inevitable  that  private  houses  should  keep  open  doors  when  tav- 
erns, and  even  houses  of  entertainment,  were  few  and  far  apart 
upon  main-traveled  roads,  and  utterly  wanting  to  the  traveler 
who  pushed  his  way  into  the  back  country  unknown  except  to  the 
pioneer.  If  the  stranger  were  not  welcomed  to  the  home  of  him 
whose  house  stood  nearest  to  the  wayside,  he  was  shelterless  in 
night  or  storm.  There  is  the  less  need  for  the  exercise  of  undis- 
criminating  hospitality  when  inn  and  hotel  "blaze"  the  track  into 
the  wilderness. 

There  is  none  the  less  occasion  for  asking  our  friends  to  enter 
our  homes  and  to  partake  of  the  food  which  is  a  symbol  of  the 
good-will  we  have  for  them,  our  disposition  to  share  with  them  the 
best  blessings  granted  to  man  in  this  world — home  loves  and  home 
joys.  True  hospitality  but  widens  the  circle  and  makes  the  guest 
"at  home."  Artificial  hospitality  seeks  or  accepts  a  convenient 
season  for  making  the  everyday  life  of  the  home  seem  what  it  is 
not  to  the  stranger  within  our  gates. 

Our  forbears  said :     "Come  in  and  take  pot-luck  with  us." 

An  old  Virginian  told  me  that,  as  a  boy,  he  was  a  visitor  in  a 
country  house  in  the  central  part  of  the  state,  when  a  carriage 
drove  up  to  the  gate,  and  James  Madison,  then  president  of  the 
United  States,  alighted.  The  lady  of  the  manor  was  sitting  upon 
the  front  porch,  a  bit  of  needle-work  in  band.  She  arose,  cordial 
and  dignified,  to  receive  her  guest.  As  her  chief  butler,  a  far 
more  consequential  personage  than  his  mistress,  bustled  out  with 
a  footman  or  two  at  his  heels  to  see  what  could  be  done  for  the 
distinguished  arrival,  she  said  to  him  in  a  gentle  "aside,"  audible 
to  the  boy  visitor :  "James !  see  that  a  plate  is  put  upon  the  table 
for  Mr.  Madison." 

Southern  hospitality  was  a  proverb  then  and  for  many  a  year 
thereafter.  In  her  book,  "The  Voice  of  the  People,"  Miss  Glas- 
gow tells  a  story,  which  I  can  certify  is  not  exaggerated,  of  an  old 
aunt  who  came  to  her  nephew's  house  on  a  visit  of  a  week  and 
stayed  twenty  years,  guarded  by  the  viewless,  but  potent,  aegis 
of  hospitality.  A  plate  was  put  upon  the  table  for  the  poor  rela- 


FAMILIAR   TALK  363 

tion  in  town  and  country  house  in  that  lavish  land,  as  freely  as  for 
the  chief  magistrate,  and  was  filled  as  bountifully. 

When  relative,  acquaintance  or  stranger  tarried  but  a  night, 
the  householder,  in  the  homely  speech  of  his  fathers,  asked  in 
gentle  sarcasm,  "if  he  had  come  for  a  chunk  of  fire  ?" 

In  his  father's  day,  lucifer  matches  were  unknown.  When  the 
fire  went  out  upon  the  kitchen  hearth  of  plantation  or  cabin,  a 
swift  runner  was  sent  across  fields  to  borrow  a  live  brand  from 
the  nearest  neighbor.  He  must  hurry  back  before  it  went  out. 

We  invite  people  to  come  to  us  at  a  stated  time  and  for  a  given 
period.  When  the  time  is  up,  we  tell  them  graciously  that  we 
have  enjoyed  their  visit,  and  hope  we  shall  meet  again  before  long. 
When  the  carriage  that  takes  them  to  the  station  is  out  of  sight, 
we  say,  "That  is  well  over !"  and  make  a  note  to  that  effect  in  our 
visiting  book. 

Leaving  the  general  view  of  our  subject  for  individual  illus- 
tration : — 

If  satirists  and  grumbling  wives  are  to  be  believed,  a  husband 
can  hardly  do  a  more  imprudent  thing  than  to  bring  home  an 
unexpected  guest  to  dinner,  or  luncheon,  or  supper. 

The  ill-used  wife  contends  that  he  always  does  this — as  if  with 
malice  aforethought — at  the  most  inconvenient  times  and  seasons. 
From  her  standpoint  he  might  have  recollected — it  seems  incredi- 
ble that  he  could  have  forgotten — that  it  is  washing  or  ironing 
day,  or  Thursday,  which  is  the  cook's  afternoon  out,  and  that 
the  housemaid  is  not  equal  to  a  regular  dinner.  When  the  mis- 
tress has  planned  to  have  a  "pick-up"  composite  of  the  substan- 
tial meal  required  by  a  man  after  his  day's  work,  and  the  tea  and 
toast  which  are  supposed  to  meet  the  temporal  needs  of  the  femi- 
nine system — the  apparition  of  an  impromptu  guest,  and  that 
guest  a  man,  is  like  a  boulder  rolled  upon  the  track  before  the 
domestic  engine.  The  train  is  derailed,  conductor  and  engineer 
"rattled,"  and  badly  shaken  up. 

Our  housewife  has  reason  on  her  side,  and  a  good  deal  of  it. 
It  is  all  very  fine  to  say,  she  urges,  that  her  table  should  always 
be  neat  and  orderly;  that  what  is  nice  enough  for  her  husband 
in  the  way  of  food  and  appointments  should  content  the  presi- 


364  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

dent,  should  he  chance  to  drop  in.  Everybody  sings  that  song 
in  the  same  key,  and  it  is  stale  bosh!  For  everybody  knows  that 
in  the  best  regulated  families  we  do  make  special  provision  for 
company.  John  comprehends  that  the  best  china  can  not  be 
used  every  day,  if  we  would  have  it  remain  even  "good."  The 
second-best  is  excellent  in  quality,  and  pretty.  Yet  what  house- 
keeper is  superior  to  the  wish  to  show  outsiders  that  she  has  a 
Minton  fish  set ;  Coalport  meat  dishes  and  plates ;  silver  vegetable 
dishes ;  Sevres  after-dinner  coffee-cups  ?  To  set  out  her  table  as 
tastefully  as  she  can  afford  to  do  is  an  offering  due  to  the  stranger 
within  her  gates — a  visible  token  of  hospitable  intent.  She  is, 
in  a  measure,  defrauded  in  all  this  when  a  surprise-visit  is  sprung 
upon  her. 

John  is  sensible,  and  does  not  object  to  left-overs  now  and 
then,  when  flavorously  put  together.  Today's  salmi,  or  salad,  or 
croquette  is,  to  him,  a  reminiscence  of  yesterday's  roast.  The 
oyster-stew  made  by  his  wife  to  spare  servants  wearied  by  laun- 
dry work,  is  as  satisfactory  to  him,  once  in  several  whiles,  as  a 
six-course  dinner  would  be.  He  sees  in  an  Irish  stew,  supported 
by  browned  potatoes,  hot  biscuits,  home-made  cake  and  a  capital 
cup  of  coffee,  a  feast  fit  for  the  gods  as  represented  by  his  hungn 
self  and  any  fellow  he  may  have  corralled  and  brought  in  to  "take 
pot-luck." 

"I  ask  yer  honors  if  that  is  anny  sort  of  a  shkull  to  take  to 
Donnybrook  Fair!"  cried  an  Emeralder  who  had  killed  his  man 
"in  a  bit  of  a  foight,"  when  the  defense  produced  the  broken 
skull  of  the  deceased  in  court  to  prove  that  the  "frontal,  parietal 
and  occipital  segments  were  extraordinarily  thin." 

Mary  submits  to  a  jury  of  her  peers  if  she  has  not  a  right  to 
be  "put  about"  when  Johnry  comes  marching  home  serenely  with 
a  guest  in  tow,  who,  for  the  lack  of  time  to  make  anything  else 
ready,  must  be  set  down  to  left-over  oyster,  or  Irish  stew. 

"When  a  man  is  asked  to  dinner,  he  expects  a  dinner!"  she 
asserts  in  justifiable  vexation.  "And  when  all  is  said  and  done, 
the  fact  remains  that  one's  husband  is  not  a  visitor  for  whom  one 
must  mind  her  p's  and  q's." 

Yet — and  a  "yet"  that  might  fill  a  whole  line  if  its  importance 


f'AND  A  CAPITA] 
CUP  OF  COFFEE 


'A  PICK-UP  DINNER" 


FAMILIAR   TALK  365 

were  considered — there  is,  also,  much  to  be  said  on  John's  side. 
Any  bachelor  can  ask  the  old  friend  who  looks  in  upon  him  in 
business  hours  and  places,  to  lunch  or  dine  with  him  at  a  chop 
house  or  hotel.  The  guest  knows  what  he  would  get  there. 
Just  such  a  meal  as  he  can  buy  for  dollars  and  cents  at  fifty  other 
"eating  joints"  all  over  the  country.  A  meal,  eaten  in  the  pres- 
ence of  from  twenty  to  one  hundred  other  feeders,  amid  the  bab- 
ble of  voices,  the  rattle  of  crockery  and  the  .click  of  knives  and 
forks. 

It  is  the  married  man  alone  who  can  offer  the  wayfarer  a  taste 
— and  a  generous  taste— of  HOME.  The  dear  old  fellow  thrills 
in  every  inch  of  body  and  soul  when  he  claps  an  ancient  chum  on 
the  back  with — 

"Now  you  must  see  my  wife  and  babies,  old  man!"  or  says  to 
a  business  acquaintance  in  town  for  the  day:  "Mrs.  Johannes 
and  I  would  be  charmed  to  have  you  take  a  family  dinner  with 
us.  I  am  just  going  home  now.  Come  with  me !" 

If  malcontent  Mary  but  knew  it,  he  pays  the  highest  possible 
compliment  to  her,  as  woman  and  housekeeper,  by  taking  her 
welcome  for  granted. 

I  heard  a  man  say  the  other  day  of  another : 

"He  is  a  royally  good  fellow,  and,  I  take  it,  is  happily  married. 
He  begged  me  to  dine  with  him  when  I  called  at  his  office,  and 
without  giving  his  wife  notice.  A  fellow  doesn't  take  such  liber- 
ties with  his  wife  unless  he  is  pretty  sure  of  her  and  her  house- 
keeping. I  couldn't  accept  the  invitation,  but  the  impression  left 
upon  my  mind  was  most  agreeable." 

It  is  worth  Mary's  while  to  score  a  point  in  her  favor  with  her 
husband's  friends  and  to  strengthen  her  hold  upon  him  by  meet- 
ing the  unexpected  guest  with  frank  cordiality,  and  in  every 
other  way  making  the  best  of  the  situation. 

She  keeps  the  house,  and  has  the  work  and  worry  that  go  with 
the  keeping.  John  pays  for  the  material  part  of  the  home.  How 
much  it  signifies  to  him  the  best  of  wives  does  not  always  know. 
It  is  his  stimulus,  his  hope,  his  sheet  anchor,  when  all  the  waves 
and  billows  of  business  trouble  go  over  his  soul — his  haven  of 


366  MARION   HARLAND'S   COOK   BOOK 

refuge — the  nearest  approach  to  Heaven  he  can  find  on  this  side 
of  the  dark  river.  He  has  a  lien — in  legal  phrase — upon  all  the 
benefits  accruing  therefrom. 

The  exercise  of  spontaneous  hospitality  is  not  the  least  of  these. 


MEATS 

BEEF 

Boast  beef 

NEVER  wash  a  raw  roast,  at  least  not  the  parts  unprotected  by 
the  thin  skin.  Wipe  the  skin  off  with  vinegar,  dry  with  a  soft 
cloth,  and  lay  the  meat,  cut  sides  at  top  and  bottom,  upon  the 
grating  of  your  roaster.  Dash  a  cupful  of  really  boiling  water 
over  it.  They  cicatrice  the  surface  and  keep  in  the  juices. 
Dredge  with  flour,  cover  and  cook  ten  minutes  to  the  pound,  turn- 
ing all  the  heat  into  the  oven  for  fifteen  minutes ;  then  shift  into 
a  slower  oven,  or  "dampen"  the  fire.  Baste  every  ten  minutes 
with  the  gravy  dripping  into  the  pan.  Ten  minutes  before  dish- 
ing the  meat,  wash  freely  with  butter  and  dredge  with  browned 
flour,  to  "glaze"  the  roast. 

Never  serve  "made  gravy"  with  roast  beef.  Pour  the  liquid 
from  the  pan  into  a  bowl,  and  when  the  fat  is  solid,  remove  it 
and  clarify  for  dripping.  The  residuum  will  add  richness  to  your 
soup-stock,  or  make  a  savory  base  for  stew  or  hash. 

Serve  horseradish  sauce  and  mustard  with  your  rare  roast, 
and  put  a  little  of  the  ruddy  juice  which  exudes  as  the  meat  is 
carved,  upon  each  slice  when  served. 

Boast  beef  with  Yorkshire  pudding 

Fifteen  minutes  before  taking  up  the  roast  just  described,  skim 
six  tablespoonfuls  of  fat  from  the  gravy,  put  into  a  smaller  drip- 
ping-pan, or  pudding-dish,  and  set  in  the  oven.  Have  ready  this 
batter : 

Sift  an  even  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one  of  baking-powder 

367 


368  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

twice  with  a  pint  of  flour.  Beat  two  eggs  light,  add  to  them  two 
cupfuls  of  milk,  turn  in  the  sifted  flour  and  mix  quickly.  Set 
the  reserved  fat  upon  the  upper  grating  of  the  oven ;  when  it  be- 
gins to  bubble,  turn  in  the  batter,  and  cook  quickly  to  a  fine, 
golden-brown.  Cut  into  squares  and  garnish  the  meat  with  them 
when  you  dish  it. 

This  is  a  better  way  than  cooking  the  pudding  in  the  roaster 
under  the  meat,  as  used  to  be  the  custom  with  English  cooks. 

Eechauffe  of  beef  a  la  jardiniere 

Lay  yesterday's  piece  of  beef  in  a  roasting-pan,  sprinkle  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  cover  it  with  thick  slices  of  raw  tomatoes. 
Dash  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  over  all,  put  a  close  cover  on  the 
roaster,  and  cook  in  a  hot  oven  for  thirty-five  minutes.  While 
this  is  cooking  boil  tender  a  pint  of  green  peas,  a  pint  of  pota- 
toes— cut  into  tiny  squares — three  carrots,  also  cut  small,  and  ten 
small  onions.  Season  each  vegetable  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a 
small  bit  of  butter. 

Lay  the  beef  with  the  tomatoes  upon  it  on  a  hot  platter,  pour 
over  it  any  gravy  remaining  in  the  pan,  and  arrange  neatly  about 
it  the  other  vegetables.  Be  sure  that  meat  and  vegetables  are 
very  hot  when  served. 

Braised  beef 

Put  a  nice  round  of  beef  in  a  broad-bottomed  iron  pot  with 
a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  sprinkle  a  chopped  onion  over  it. 
Cook  the  beef  on  one  side  until  brown,  then  turn  and  cook  on  the 
other  side  for  the  same  length  of  time.  Now  dash  a  pint  of  boil- 
ing water  over  the  meat,  put  a  close  cover  on  the  pot  and  let  the 
contents  cook  slowly,  allowing  at  least  fifteen  minutes  to  every 
pound  of  beef.  When  the  meat  is  done,  remove  from  the  pot  to 
a  platter  and  keep  warm  while  you  strain  the  gravy  left  in  the 
pot;  return  to  the  fire  and  thicken  it  with  a  tablespoonful  of 
browned  flour  rubbed  into  the  same  quantity  of  butter.  Season 
the  gravy  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  kitchen  bouquet, 
and  pour  it  over  the  meat. 


MEATS  369 

Rib-ends  of  beef 

These  are  usually  cut  off  when  the  roast  is  rolled,  and  can  be 
bought  cheap. 

Fry  in  beef  fat  a  sliced  onion  and  a  chopped  sweet  pepper — . 
carefully  seeded.  Take  these  up  with  a  skimmer  and  keep  hot. 
Pepper,  salt  and  flour  the  rib-ends  and  fry  in  the  same  fat  until 
they  begin  to  brown.  Put,  now,  with  the  fat  into  a  saucepan, 
strew  the  fried  onion  and  pepper  on  top;  pour  in  a  cup  of  weak 
stock;  fit  on  a  close  cover,  and  cook  very  slowly  until  the  beef 
is  tender. 

Strain  and  skim  the  gravy,  thicken  with  browned  flour;  add 
a  teaspoonful  of  kitchen  bouquet;  arrange  the  beef-bones  in  a 
dish ;  pour  the  gravy  over  them  and  serve. 

Pot-roast  of  coarse  beef 

Cut  four  pounds  of  coarse  lean  beef  in  one  piece.  Fry  half  a 
pound  of  fat  salt  pork  in  a  rather  shallow  pot.  Put  in  the  beef, 
and  cook  fast  on  both  sides  for  five  minutes.  ,  Cover  with  a 
chopped  onion  and  a  cupful  of  canned  tomatoes,  a  sliced  carrot 
and  a  sliced  turnip.  Now,  pour  in  enough  hot  water  to  come  half- 
way to  the  top  of  the  meat ;  cover  closely  and  simmer  slowly  for 
two  hours,  turning  at  the  end  of  the  first  hour. 

Take  out  the  beef;  rub  with  butter,  pepper  and  salt,  and  set 
in  the  oven  while  you  skim  and  strain  the  gravy,  rubbing  the 
vegetabfes  with  it  through  a  colander.  Put  this  back  into  the  pot, 
thicken  with  browned  flour,  boil  up  once ;  pour  half  over  the  meat 
and  serve  the  rest  in  a  gravy-boat. 

Boiled  boiled  beef 

(An  English  recipe) 

Cut  an  oblong  piece  of  beef  from  the  flank.  It  should  be  two 
inches  thick,  twelve  inches  long  and  six  wide.  Lay  it  on  a  dish 
and  spread  upon  it  this  forcemeat : 

24 


370  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

A  cupful  of  cracker  crumbs,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  finely- 
chopped  salt  pork,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  saltspoonful,  each, 
of  thyme,  marjoram,  and  sage,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  a  few 
drops  of  onion  juice,  or  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  onion,  and 
one  egg.  Moisten  with  a  good  stock  until  soft  enough  to  spread 
over  the  meat. 

Roll  as  you  would  a  valise  pudding,  tie  about  with  pack-thread 
and  sew  up  in  mosquito  netting  or  cheese-cloth.  Put  on  in  plenty 
of  boiling  water  and  cook  slowly  for  four  hours.  Let  it  lie  in  the 
water  until  the  latter  is  a  little  more  than  lukewarm,  and  put 
under  a  heavy  weight  until  next  day.  Remove  the  cloth,  cut  the 
strings  and  serve  cold  with  horseradish  sauce. 

Corned  beef  is  very  good  prepared  in  this  way.  Add  vinegar 
to  the  water  in  which  it  is  boiled  and  omit  the  pork  from  the 
stuffing. 

Beef  a  la  mode  (No.  1) 

Cut  two  pounds  of  lean  beef  from  the  round  into  strips.  Cover 
the  bottom  of  a  pudding-dish  with  thin  strips  of  bacon,  then  put 
in  half  the  meat  and  strew  over  this  carrots,  turnips  and  onions, 
sliced  very  thin.  There  should  be  four  of  these,  part  of  them  go- 
ing over  the  first  layer  of  beef,  the  remainder  over  the  second 
layer  of  beef.  With  them  go  two  bay-leaves  broken  into  bits. 
Cover  all  with  stock,  make  a  paste  of  flour  and  water,  rolling  it 
out  as  for  pie  crust,  cover  the  top  of  the  bake-dish  with  this, 
pinching  it  down  about  the  edges  so  that  no  steam  may  escape. 
Bake  for  two  hours  in  a  steady  oven,  remove  the  paste  cover,  and 
send  the  dish  at  once  to  the  table. 

Beef  a  la  mode  (No.  2) 

Have  a  solid  piece  cut  from  the  round,  and  tie  into  shape  with 
stout  cords  at  intervals  of  an  inch  apart.  Plug  the  meat  perpen- 
dicularly with  strips  of  fat  salt  pork,  long  enough  to  project  half 
an  inch  at  top  and  bottom.  Make  incisions  clear  through  the 
beef  with  a  sharp,  thin  knife,  and  fill  these  with  forcemeat  made 
of  fat  pork,  minced,  onion  and  bread-crumbs,  sharply  seasoned. 


MEATS  371 

Lay  the  meat  in  a  braising-pot,  cover  deep  with  chopped  onion, 
carrot,  turnip,  celery,  three  bay-leaves,  a  sliced  tomato,  and 
sprinkle  with  mace  and  paprika.  Now  pour  in  a  cupful  of  cold 
water,  cover  closely  and  cook  slowly  fifteen  minutes  to  the  pound. 

If  you  wish  to  serve  hot,  clip  the  threads ;  rub  the  gravy 
through  a  colander,  let  it  cool  a  few  minutes  to  throw  up  the  fat ; 
skim  and  thicken  with  browned  flour,  and  pour  half  over  the  meat, 
half  into  a  gravy-boat. 

It  is,  however,  nicer  if  left  to  get  cold  in  the  gravy,  with  a 
heavy  weight  on  top,  until  next  day.  Then  remove  the  cords, 
and  cut  in  thin,  horizontal  slices. 

An  underdone  roast  can  be  metamorphosed  in  this  way  for  a 
second-day's  dinner. 

Braised  rolled  beefsteak 

This  is  a  good  way  of  dealing  with  a  hopelessly  tough  steak. 
Lay  upon  a  board  and  pound  from  end  to  end  with  a  mallet. 
Cover  with  a  forcemeat  of  minced  salt  pork,  onion  and  seasoned 
crumbs,  wet  with  a  little  gravy;  roll  up  upon  the  stuffing  and 
tie  into  shape.  Lay  in  your  roaster;  pour  in  a  little  cold  water 
(or,  better  still,  weak  stock),  cover  and  cook  slowly  for  two 
hours,  basting  often  with  gravy  from  the  pan.  Undo  the  strings 
carefully,  after  pinning  the  roll  together  with  skewers,  and  lay 
upon  a  hot  dish,  covered,  while  you  prepare  the  gravy.  Skim, 
thicken  with  browned  flour,  add  a  good  spoonful  of  kitchen  bou- 
quet, boil  up  and  pour  into  a  boat. 

Baked  beefsteak  a  la  jardiniere 

Still  another  way  of  making  a  tough  steak  eatable.  Pound  it 
on  both  sides  and  lay  in  lemon  juice  and  salad  oil  for  two  hours. 
Transfer  then  to  your  roaster,  cover  with  two  sliced  tomatoes, 
a  sliced  carrot,  an  onion  and  a  turnip,  with  minced  sweet  herbs. 
Add  a  cupful  of  cold  water,  cover  closely  and  cook  slowly  twenty 
minutes  to  the  pound. 

Cut  one  large  carrot,  two  large  onions,  two  turnips  and  four 
stalks  of  celery  into  neat  dice  and  cook  them  soft,  without  break- 


372  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

ing,  in  salted  water,  each  in  a  pan  of  its  own.  In  another  sauce- 
pan cook  four  large  tomatoes,  peeled -and  whole. 

When  the  steak  is  done,  keep  hot  over  boiling  water,  while 
you  rub  the  vegetables  with  which  it  was  cooked  through  the 
colander  or  a  vegetable  press  back  into  the  gravy,  thickening  this 
with  browned  flour.  Boil  one  minute,  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon 
and  a  glass  of  sherry,  and  keep  hot  in  a  closed  vessel.  Dish  the 
meat,  lay  the  vegetable  dice  about  it  in  little  heaps,  each  kind  by 
itself,  leaving  the  tomatoes  whole;  pour  the  rich  gravy  over  all; 
cover  the  dish  and  leave  in  the  open  oven  for  three  minutes  to 
let  the  gravy  soak  in. 

You  have  now  a  "French  dish,"  that  will  amply  repay  the  ad- 
ditional pains  it  has  cost  you. 

A  family  pot-roast  of  beef 

The  round  will  serve  for  this  dish.  Fry  slices  of  fat  salt  pork 
in  an  iron  pot,  and  when  crisp,  remove  and  throw  in  a  sliced 
onion.  When  this  is  browned,  remove  and  lay  the  roast  in  the 
pot.  Cook  for  ten  minutes,  turn  and  cook  for  five  minutes  more. 
Now,  add  a  cupful  of  water,  cover  closely  and  simmer  over  a  slow 
fire  for  an  hour.  Add  a  sliced  carrot,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  lemon 
juice,  a  bay-leaf  and  a  tablespoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce  to 
the  contents  of  the  pot.  Turn  the  beef  over  and  over  in  this,  and 
if  the  meat  seem  dry  add  a  cupful  of  water,  or,  better  still,  stock. 
Cook  covered,  very  slowly,  for  two  hours  more.  Transfer  the 
meat  to  a  hot  platter,  thicken  the  gravy  left  in  the  pot  with  a 
brown  roux,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  stir  in  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  vinegar.  Pour  this  sauce  over  the  meat  and  send  to 
the  table. 

A  New  England  pot-roast 

Lay  a  round  of  beef  in  a  broad,  deep  pot.  Pour  in  a  cupful  of 
boiling  water,  add  two  slices  of  onion,  cover  closely  and  cook 
gently  ten  minutes  to  the  pound.  Transfer  to  a  dripping-pan, 
rub  with  butter,  dredge  with  flour,  and  brown  in  a  quick  oven. 
Strain  and  cool  the  gravy  left  in  the  pot,  take  off  the  fat,  put  the 


MEATS  373 

gravy  into  a  saucepan,  season  with  pepper,  salt  and  a  little  kitchen 
bouquet,  and  thicken  with  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  brown  roux. 
Boil  up  once  and  serve  in  a  gravy-boat,  or  pour  around  the  base 
of  the  beef. 

Savory  ragout  of  beef 

Cut  a  round  beefsteak  into  inch-squares.  Fry  minced  salt  pork 
in  a  pan  until  you  have  enough  fat  to  fry  the  meat,  then  remove 
the  bits  of  pork  and  lay  in  the  meat,  each  piece  of  which  must 
first  be  rolled  in  flour.  When  the  meat  is  brown  at  the  edges, 
add  to  the  fat  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  that  has  been  lightly 
browned,  stir  in  a  pint  of  weak  stock,  or,  if  you  have  not  that, 
of  boiling  water ;  stir  to  a  brown  sauce,  and  return  the  meat  to  it, 
throwing  in,  at  the  same  time,  a  minced  onion.  Leave  the  meat 
at  the  side  of  the  range  where  it  will  cook  very  slowly  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour.  Now,  season  to  taste  with  salt,  add  a  bay 
leaf  and  a  little  kitchen  bouquet.  A  little  Worcestershire  sauce 
is  thought  by  some  to  be  an  improvement.  Cover  again  and  cook, 
still  slowly,  for  over  an  hour,  or  until  the  meat  is  very  tender. 
Stir  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  turn  out  upon  a  heated 
platter. 

Beef  hot  pot 

Two  pounds  of  beef  ribs ;  one  tablespoonful  of  dripping ;  two 
chopped  onions  and  six  tiny  green  peppers,  four  slices  of  toast, 
a  little  black  pepper,  chives,  vinegar,  thyme,  raisins,  olives,  toma- 
toes to  taste,  all  minced. 

Heat  the  dripping  in  a  saucepan,  put  into  it  the  ingredients 
(leave  the  peppers  whole,  and  mince  the  chives),  cover  closely 
and  stew  until  boiled  to  rags.  Thicken  with  butter  rolled  in 
browned  flour.  Serve  on  toast. 

Boiled  beef  tongue  (smoked) 

Wash  the  tongue  well  and  soak  four  hours  in  tepid  water. 
Put  over  the  fire  in  plenty  of  cold  water  and  cook  twelve  minutes 
to  the  pound  after  the  boil  begins.  Let  it  get  cold  in  the  water ; 
pare  and  trim  neatly,  and  garnish  with  small  green  pickles. 


374  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Braised  fresh  beef's  tongue  (No.  1) 

Wash  the  tongue  and  boil  for  half  an  hour.  Trim  away  the 
root  and  the  tough  edges. 

Fry  a  sliced  onion  in  three  tablespoonfuls  of  dripping.  Strain 
out  the  onion  and  lay  the  tongue  in  the  frying-pan.  Cook  ten 
minutes,  turning  twice.  Remove  to  your  covered  roaster;  lay 
upon  the  grating  and  dredge  with  flour.  Pour  the  fat  over  it; 
add  a  large  cupful  of  boiling  water  and  cook,  closely  covered,  for 
an  hour  and  a  half,  basting  four  times. 

Take  up  and  keep  hot  over  boiling  water  while  you  skim  off 
the  fat,  and  thicken  with  browned  flour.  Season  with  paprika, 
onion  juice,  salt  and  half  a  cupful  of  strained  tomato  sauce. 

Dish  the  tongue  and  pour  the  gravy  over  it.  Send  around 
horseradish  sauce  with  it. 

Sauce  for  braised  tongue 

Cook  tog-ether  in  a  saucepan  a  tablespoonful,  each,  of  butter 
and  flour  until  they  bubble.  Into  a  half-pint  cup  put  a  couple  of 
teaspoonfuls  of  vinegar,  fill  up  the  cup  with  boiling  water,  and 
turn  this  on  the  butter  and  flour.  Stir  until  thick  and  smooth. 
Just  before  taking  from  the  fire  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  grated 
horseradish.  Let  it  get  hot,  and  serve. 

t 
Braised  fresh  tongue  (No.  2) 

Clean,  and  boil  for  an  hour,  leaving  in  the  water  for  fifteen 
minutes  after  taking  it  from  the  fire.  Trim  neatly.  Skewer  the 
tip  and  root  of  the  tongue  together  and  lay  in  your  covered 
roaster  upon  a  layer  of  sliced  onion,  carrot,  celery,  tomatoes,  and 
minced  parsley.  Cover  with  the  same ;  add  a  cupful  of  the  water 
in  which  the  tongue  was  boiled,  fit  on  your  cover  and  cook  slowly 
for  two  hours.  Dish  the  tongue  and  keep  hot.  Rub  gravy  and 
vegetables  through  the  colander,  into  a  saucepan ;  thicken  with 
browned  flour.  Lay  the  tongue  in  a  bake-pan ;  pour  the  gravy 
over  it,  and  set  upon  the  top  grating  of  an  oven  to  brown.  Dish, 


MEATS  375 

pour  the  gravy  about  the  tongue  and  serve.    Eat  mushroom  sauce 
with  it. 

Mushroom  sauce  for  the  above 

Wash  the  mushrooms,  wipe  and  peel  them,  then  cut  into  tiny 
dice.  Stir  in  a  little  of  the  gravy  from  the  tongue ;  season  with 
salt  and  paprika;  add  a  lump  of  butter  rolled  in  browned  flour 
and  cook  two  minutes. 

A  little  lemon  juice  improves  the  flavor. 

An  Italian  entree  of  beef's  tongue 

This  is  a  good  way  to  warm  up  the  remains  of  a  boiled  or 
roast  fresh  tongue.  Slice,  cover  with  oil  and  lemon-juice,  and 
leave  in  the  marinade  for  one  hour.  Then  add  salt,  pepper,  some 
sliced  onion,  a  little  parsley  and  a  few  mushrooms  cut  into  halves. 
Place  in  a  frying-pan  and  cook  slowly  for  about  fifteen  minutes, 
moistening  with  a  tablespoonful  of  sherry  and  a  little  lemon  juice ; 
just  before  taking  from  the  fire  add  a  little  brown  stock,  and  a 
little  tomato  sauce,  well-seasoned. 

Boiled  beefs  tongue 

Wash  well  and  cook  in  salted,  boiling  water  until  a  steel  skewer 
goes  easily  into  the  thickest  part.  Leave  in  the  water  for  fifteen 
minutes,  trim,  and  lay  on  a  hot  dish.  Pour  sauce  tartare  over  it 
and  send  more  around  with  it. 

Boiled  beef's  heart 

Wash  the  heart  and  soak  for  half  an  hour  in  cold,  salted  water, 
Wipe  and  stuff  the  ventricles  with  a  forcemeat  of  bread-crumbs 
and  chopped  ham  or  salt  pork,  minced  fine  and  well  seasoned. 
Sew  up  in  cheese-cloth  fitted  to  the  heart,  and  bring  slowly  to  a 
boil  in  salted  water,  to  which  a  tablespoon  of  vinegar  has  been 
added.  Boil  gently  two  hours,  turning  the  heart  several  times. 

Remove  the  cloth  and  dish  the  heart.  Pour  a  piquante  sauce 
over  it. 


376  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

The  heart  is  made  more  savory  if  you  will  boil  it  in  weak  stock 
instead  of  water. 

Boast  beef's  heart 

Prepare  as  directed  in  last  recipe,  but  roast  instead  of  boiling, 
laying  the  heart  upon  a  bed  of  minced  onion  and  tomatoes,  and 
pouring  in  a  little  hot  water  to  make  the  gravy.  Rub  this  through 
a  colander,  thicken  with  browned  flour,  season  to  taste  and  pour 
over  the  heart. 

How  to  corn  beef 

Mix  salt  with  saltpeter  in  the  proportion  of  ten  parts  of  the 
first  to  one  of  the  second,  and  with  this  rub  the  piece  of  beef  to 
be  corned  until  the  salt  lies  dry  upon  the  surface.  Let  it  stand 
in  a  cold  place  for  twenty-four  hours  and  repeat  the  process,  and 
the  next  day  put  it  into  pickle.  This  is  made  by  boiling  together 
for  ten  minutes  a  gallon  of  salt,  four  ounces  of  saltpeter,  and  a 
pound  and  a  half  of  brown  sugar  in  five  gallons  of  water.  The 
meat  should  not  be  put  into  the  pickle  until  the  latter  is  perfectly 
cold.  Leave  it  in  the  pickle  and  take  it  out  as  needed,  looking 
after  it  once  in  a  while  to  see  if  it  is  keeping  well.  If  not,  take 
the  meat  out,  rub  it  well  with  dry  salt,  and  prepare  a  fresh  and 
stronger  brine. 

How  to  corn  a  tongue 

Put  into  a  saucepan  a  gallon  and  a  half  of  water,  a  half-pound 
of  brown  sugar,  two  and  a  quarter  ounces  of  salt  and  a  half- 
ounce  of  saltpeter.  Boil  for  half  an  hour,  skim  and,  when  cold, 
pour  over  the  tongue. 

It  should  be  ready  for  use  in  a  week. 

Boiled  corned  beef 

Soak  for  an  hour  in  cold  water.  Put  over  the  fire  in  plenty  of 
cold  water.  Put  into  the  pot  with  it  a  peeled  carrot  and  a  small 
onion,  and  for  a  gallon  of  water  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar. 
Cook  slowly,  allowing  twenty-five  minutes  to  the  pound  if  very 


MEATS  377 

salt,  or  if  the  meat  has  lain  in  the  brine  for  some  weeks.  Let  it 
lie  in  the  liquor  for  half  an  hour  after  it  is  done.  Lift  it  then, 
trim  away  ragged  edges,  lay  on  a  hot  dish  and  wash  all  over  with 
butter  in  which  has  been  beaten  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon. 

Strain  a  cupful  of  the  liquor ;  stir  into  it  a  tablespoonful  of  but- 
ter rolled  in  one  of  flour,  boil  two  minutes  and  add  a  great  spoon- 
ful of  minced  pickles,  or  of  capers.  Some  like  to  use  pickled 
onions  for  this  purpose. 

Send  around  horseradish  and  mustard  with  it. 

When  it  leaves  the  table  put  a  plate  with  a  heavy  weight  upon 
it,  and  leave  thus  all  night. 


VEAL 


Boast  leg1  of  veal 

Wipe  a  leg  of  veal  with  a  damp  cloth  and  place  it  in  a  covered 
roaster.  Dash  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  over  the  meat,  cover  it 
closely  and  cook  at  the  rate  of  twenty  minutes  to  the  pound. 
Half  an  hour  before  the  meat  is  taken  from  the  oven  remove  the 
cover  from  the  roaster,  baste  the  meat  with  the  gravy  in  the  pan, 
and  brown. 

Shoulder  of  veal 

This  may  be  roasted,  like  the  leg,  but  is  better  for  having  the 
bone  removed,  and  the  cavity  thus  left  filled  with  a  forcemeat 
made  of  bread-crumbs  and  chopped  ham,  seasoned  to  taste. 

Veal  cutlets 

Wipe  the  cutlets  with  a  damp  cloth,  dip  them,  first,  in  beaten 
egg,  then  in  cracker  dust,  and  set  in  a  cold  place  for  an  hour. 
Fry  in  dripping  to  a  rich  brown.  Cook  slowly  that  they  may  be 
thoroughly  done.  Lay  for  a  moment  on  brown  paper  to  drain 
free  of  grease,  and  put  on  a  hot  platter.  Serve  with  tomato 
sauce. 


378  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Veal  steaks  with  mushroom  sauce 

Broil  the  steaks  slowly  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  often  that 
they  may  not  scorch.  When  done,  keep  the  meat  hot  on  a  platter 
in  the  oven  while  you  make  the  following  sauce : 

Drain  the  liquor  from  a  can  of  mushrooms  and  cut  the  mush- 
rooms in  halves.  Cook  together  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and 
one  of  browned  flour  until  they  are  dark  brown  in  color.  Pour 
upon  them  the  mushroom  liquor  and  a  cupful  of  beef  stock.  Stir 
to  a  smooth  sauce,  season  with  a  dash  of  Worcestershire  sauce, 
salt  and  pepper,  and  add  the  halved  mushrooms.  Cook  for  two 
minutes,  stirring  constantly,  then  pour  over  and  around  the  veal 
steaks. 

Breast  of  veal  a  la  jardiniere 

Lard  with  strips  of  fat  salt  pork,  and  sprinkle  with  paprika. 
Dredge  with  flour  and  lay  upon  the  grating  of  your  covered 
roaster,  add  enough  boiling  water  to  cover  it  barely,  and  roast 
for  an  hour,  basting  with  the  gravy  every  ten  or  fifteen  minutes. 
Then  turn  on  the  other  side  and  spread  over  the  roast  a  pint  of 
tomatoes  peeled  and  sliced,  two  onions,  chopped  fine,  two  sprigs 
of  parsley,  chopped  fine,  and  two  chopped  peppers.  Baste  for 
another  hour  every  ten  minutes.  When  the  meat  is  removed 
keep  hot  while  you  take  up  the  vegetables  with  a  split  spoon, 
and  keep  them  hot  also.  Strain  the  gravy,  thicken  with  browned 
flour,  and  put  into  a  boat.  Lay  the  vegetables  about  the  meat 
upon  a  metal  or  fire-proof  dish,  dredge  this  last  with  browned 
crumbs,  and  dot  with  softened  butter.  Set  upon  the  top  grating 
of  the  oven  for  five  minutes  to  brown  and  send  to  table  in  the  dish. 


Stuffed  roast  fillet  of  veal 

Take  out  the  central  bone  and  skewer  the  fillet  into  a  neat 
round.  Make  a  forcemeat  of  crumbs,  minced  pork,  onion  juice, 
parsley  and  half  a  can  of  mushrooms,  minced.  Wet  with  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  stock  or  gravy ;  fill  the  bone-hole  and  ram  the  stuf- 
fing into  the  folds  of  the  meat  from  both  sides.  Lay  on  your 


MEATS  379 

1  roaster,  cover  with  very  thin  slices  of  fat  salt  pork, 
sh  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  over  top  and  sides.  Roast, 
i,  twelve  minutes  to  the  pound.  Fifteen  minutes  before 
aw  it  from  the  oven  remove  the  pork,  wash  with  butter  and 

with  browned  flour.     Then  brown,  uncovered. 

fillet  should  be  basted  four  times  while  roasting.  After 
irth  basting  draw  off  a  cupful  of  gravy  from  the  dripping- 
it  on  ice,  or  in  cold  water  until  the  fat  rises,  skim,  add  four 
)oonfuls  of  strained  tomato  juice,  thicken  with  browned 
and  cook  three  minutes  before  pouring  into  a  gravy-boat. 

Boast  breast  of  veal 

Cook  as  you  would  the  fillet,  running  a  sharp  knife  between 
ribs  and  meat  to  make  space  for  the  stuffing. 
Serve  spinach  with  it. 

Breaded  veal  cutlets 

Roll  the  cutlets  in  fine  crumbs,  salted  and  peppered;  dip 
into  beaten  egg,  then  again  in  crumbs.  Set  on  ice  for  an  hour 
to  get  firm,  and  fry  in  deep  fat,  turning  three  times,  carefully. 
Cook  slowly  after  the  first  five  minutes.  Underdone  veal  is  un- 
wholesome and  unpalatable. 

Drain  off  the  fat,  and  serve  in  a  heated  dish.  Send  around 
horseradish  or  tomato  sauce  with  them,  and  accompany  with 
spinach. 

Mock  squabs 

Have  six  or  eight  slices  cut  from  a  loin  of  veal,  half  an  inch 
thick,  about  seven  inches  long  and  four  wide.  Make  a  force- 
meat of  crumbs,  fat  pork,  and  minced  mushrooms  seasoned  with 
paprica,  onion  juice  and  a  little  lemon  juice  with  a  suspicion  of 
grated  lemon-peel.  Moisten  with  a  beaten  egg  and  cover  with 
this  each  slice  of  meat  nearly  to  the  edge,  roll  up  tightly  and  tie 
with  twine,  or  fasten  with  wooden  skewers.  Dredge  with  salt, 
pepper  and  flour,  roast  them  as  previously  directed,  golden-brown. 
Be  very  careful  that  they  do  not  brown  or  become  too  highly 


380  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

colored.  When  nearly  done  add  cream  to  almost  cover  and  let 
them  simmer  about  fifteen  minutes  or  until  quite  tender.  Re- 
move the  strings,  arrange  the  "squabs"  on  toast,  garnish  with 
water-cress,  and  pour  a  little  of  the  strained  cream  over  each. 
Serve  with  asparagus  or  spinach. 

larded  veal 

Have  a  solid  piece  cut  from  the  thickest  part  of  the  shoulder. 
Lard  at  short  intervals  with  strips  of  fat  salt  pork  and  put  into 
your*  covered  roaster  with  sliced  carrot,  onion,  bits  of  celery  and 
a  few  sprigs  of  parsley;  over  all  pour  a  large  cupful  of  good 
stock,  cover  and  cook  slowly  for  about  three  hours.  You  should 
baste  frequently  while  cooking,  and  a  short  time  before  it  is  done 
remove  the  cover,  to  cook  the  larding  thoroughly  and  give  a  good 
color  to  the  veal. 

Just  before  taking  up  pour  out  a  cupful  of  gravy,  skim  off  the 
fat  and  thicken  with  browned  flour,  add  a  great  spoonful  of  to- 
mato catsup,  and  simmer  until  you  are  ready  to  dish  the  meat. 
Pour  then  into  a  boat.  • 

Boast  calves'  hearts 

You  will  need  two  hearts  for  a  dish  of  moderate  size.  Wash 
them  thoroughly,  leaving  in  salt  and  water  for  an  hour,  to  draw 
out  the  blood.  Run  a  slender,  keen  knife  from  the  large  end  of 
each  heart  straight  to  the  center,  turning  it  around  several  times 
to  make  a  central  hole  for  the  forcemeat  stuffing.  Make  this  of 
cracker  crumbs  highly  seasoned  with  onion  juice,  salt  and  pep- 
per, thyme  or  marjoram.  Moisten  with  melted  butter,  or  use 
hot  water  and  a  little  fat  pork  or  bacon  finely  chopped.  Sew 
the  opening  together,  and  thrust  in  several  lardoons  of  salt  pork. 
Dredge  with  salt,  pepper  and  flour.  Fry  one  sliced  onion  in 
dripping  in  a  frying-pan.  Put  in  the  heart  and  brown  it  lightly 
all  over.  Pour  in  stock  to  cover  it — barely — add  a  bay  leaf,  two 
slices  of  carrot  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Cover  the  pan  and 
cook  in  a  moderate  oven  about  two  hours,  or  until  very  tender. 

When  done  remove  the  strings,  put  the  hearts  upon  a  hot  dish, 


ROAST    BEEF 


MOCK    PIGEONS 


BOILED   CALF  S    HEAD 


VEAL  AND  BEEF 


MEATS  381 

and  thicken  the  gravy  with  browned  flour.  Add  lemon  juice 
and  other  seasoning  if  needed.  Strain  over  the  hearts.  Garnish 
with  Parisian  potatoes  alternately  with  small  tomatoes,  pared 
and  baked.  Pour  melted  butter  and  minced  parsley  over  potatoes 
and  tomatoes. 

Larded  liver 

Wash  a  calf's  or  lamb's  liver,  lard  i':  with  narrow  strips  of  salt 
pork,  and  put  it  into  a  covered  roaster.  Pour  over  the  liver  a 
pint  of  cold  beef  stock  and  cover  the  pan  closely.  Set  in  a  mod- 
erate oven  and  cook  an  hour  and  a  half.  Transfer  the  liver  to 
a  deep  dish  and  put  the  pan  containing  the  gravy  on  the  top  of 
the  range.  Thicken  the  gravy  with  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of 
browned  flour  and  add  to  it  a  cupful  of  strained  tomato  liquor, 
a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Boil  up 
once  and  pour  over  the  liver. 

Salmi  of  liver 

Boil  a  calf's  liver  for  one  hour  in  slightly  salted  water,  and 
let  it  get  cold.  Cut  into  dice  of  uniform  size,  and  for  each  cupful 
allow  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  cupful  of  stock,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  tomato  sauce,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped 
olives.  Brown  the  butter,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and 
brown  again ;  add  gradually  the  stock,  and  stir  until  smooth  and 
thick.  Put  in  the  catsup,  olives  and  liver  dice,  season  to  taste,  and 
simmer  for  fifteen  minutes.  Serve  hot. 

A  delightful  and  not  inelegant  entree. 

Roast  sweetbreads 

Parboil  two  pairs  of  sweetbreads  and  blanch  by  throwing  them 
into  cold  water.  Drain,  pierce  three  or  four  holes  in  each  and 
press  into  these  holes  narrow  strips  of  fat  salt  pork,  allowing  the 
strips  to  project  a  half-inch  on  each  side.  Lay  the  sweetbreads 
in  a  roasting-pan,  pour  a  cupful  of  weak  veal  stock  over  them 
and  rub  them  with  melted  butter.  Cover  and  bake  for  twenty- 


382  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

five  minutes;  remove  from  the  pan,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, put  a  spoonful  of  the  thickened  and  seasoned  gravy  upon 
each,  and  send  to  the  table. 

Baked  calf's  head 

The  head  should  be  cleaned  with  the  skin  left  on,  also  the  ears, 
and  split  down  the  under  side,  leaving  the  top  unbroken.  Re- 
move the  tongue  and  brains,  parboil  and  set  them  on  ice.  Put  the 
head  on  in  plenty  of  cold  water,  boil  quickly  and  for  one  minute 
after  the  boiling  point  is  reached.  Take  the  head  off  and  lay  in 
ice-cold  water.  Change  this  for  colder  in  ten  minutes,  and  leave 
in  this  for  several  hours. 

Then  put  over  the  fire  in  boiling  water,  to  which  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  vinegar  has  been  added,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  salt.  Cook 
gently  until  you  can  slip  out  the  bones  easily. 

Do  this,  drawing  the  teeth,  cheek-bones  and  skull,  taking  care 
not  to  break  the  upper  skin.  Put  into  a  bake-dish,  restoring  the 
shape  as  well  as  you  can.  Cut  the  tongue  into  slices  and  lay 
close  against  the  cheeks ;  wash  plentifully  with  butter  rubbed 
to  a  cream  with  lemon  juice,  sift  dry  crumbs  all  over  it  and  bake, 
covered,  half  an  hour.  Then  brown. 

To  make  the  gravy,  rub  the  brains  to  a  soft  paste ;  pepper  and 
salt,  season  with  tomato  catsup  and  onion  juice,  add  enough  of 
the  liquor  in  which  the  head  was  boiled  to  make  a  boatful  of 
gravy,  thicken  with  butter  rolled  in  flour,  simmer  five  minutes 
and  serve. 

There  is  no  more  savory  preparation  of  calf's  head  than  this. 
It  goes  to  table  in  the  bake-dish.  The  liquor  from  the  pot  in 
which  it  had  the  second  boiling  makes  excellent  soup  stock. 

Boiled  calf's  head 

Boil  as  directed  in  last  recipe,  but  do  not  blanch  or  bone.  When 
it  has  been  cooked  tender,  dish,  with  the  tongue  (which  should 
have  been  boiled  with  it),  sliced  and  laid  against  the  cheeks,  and 
pour  over  it  a  brain  gravy,  made  as  for  the  baked  head,  with  the 
addition  of  a  great  spoonful  of  minced  olives. 


MEATS  383 

Mock  turtle 

Boil  and  blanch  a  calf's  head,  take  out  the  bones  and  let  the 
meat  and  tongue  get  cold  in  the  liquor.  Do  not  let  it  remain 
long  enough  to  jelly.  As  soon  as  the  meat  is  firm  take  it  from 
the  stock,  wipe  dry,  and  cut  with  the  tongue  into  neat  dice  an 
inch  long,  and  half  as  wide.  Make  a  gravy  of  a  large  cupful  of 
the  pot  liquor,  thickened  with  butter  rolled  in  browned  flour  and 
seasoned  with  lemon  and  onion  juice,  a  teaspoonful  of  kitchen 
bouquet,  a  little  salt  and  paprika.  Put  in  the  meat,  and  simmer 
fifteen  minutes. 

Have  ready  a  sauce  made  by  heating  a  cupful  of  cream  (add- 
ing a  pinch  of  soda)  and  pour  it,  stirring  all  the  time,  upon  the 
beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs.  Stir  and  beat  for  one  minute,  and 
add  to  the  meat  and  gravy.  Now  add  a  glass  of  sherry  and  pour 
all  into  a  deep  dish,  in  which  you  have  laid  a  pile  of  turtle  eggs 
made  by  rubbing  together  the  yolks  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs 
and  the  boiled  brains  of  the  calf,  binding  them  with  a  raw  egg  and 
a  little  browned  flour.  They  should  be  made  into  little  marbles 
with  floured  hands  and  cooked  in  boiling  butter  for  two  min- 
utes, then  fished  out  and  drained  in  a  colander. 

A  delicious  entree! 

Calf's  liver  a  la  jardiniere 

Lard  a  large  liver  with  strips  of  fat  salt  pork.  Cover  the  bot- 
tom of  a  large  saucepan  with  a  carrot  and  a  young  turnip  (all 
cut  into  dice),  six  very  small  onions,  a  handful  of  green  peas  and 
the  same  of  string  beans  cut  into  short  lengths.  Lay  the  liver 
upon  these,  pepper  it  and  pour  in  a  cupful  of  stock,  or  a  cupful 
of  hot  water  in  which  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  has  been  melted. 
Cover  closely  and  cook  an  hour  and  a  half  without  opening.  In 
a  bake-pan  cook  four  peeled  tomatoes  of  medium  size.  Take  up 
the  liver  and  the  vegetables,  the  latter  with  a  split  spoon.  Lay 
the  liver  upon  a  hot  dish,  group  the  vegetables  (the  tomatoes  in- 
cluded), each  of  a  kind  together,  about  it;  keep  hot  in  the  oven 
while  you  strain  the  gravy  into  a  saucepan,  add  a  great  spoonful 


384  MARION   HARLAND'S   COOK   BOOK 

of  catsup  and  a  tablespoonful  of  browned  flour  wet  with  cold 
water,  and  cook  for  one  minute.  Pour  a  few  spoonfuls  over 
liver  and  vegetables,  the  rest  into  a  boat. 

Casserole  of  calf's  liver 

Wash  and  wipe  a  calf's  liver  perfectly  dry.  Fry  a  few  slices 
of  fat  bacon  in  a  pan  until  the  fat  is  all  fried  out.  Strain  and 
return  the  fat  to  the  pan,  lay  in  the  liver  and  fry  two  minutes  on 
each  side,  and  then  put  into  the  casserole ;  add  one  pint  of  rich 
brown  sauce,  a  cupful  of  button  onions  that  have  been  browned 
in  butter  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon  juice.  Fasten  on  the 
cover  with  a  flour  and  water  paste,  put  in  a  moderate,  steady 
oven,  and  cook  for  two  hours.  Then  remove  the  paste  from  the 
cover,  put  in  potato  balls  that  have  been  fried  in  hot  fat,  and 
send  to  the  table  in  the  casserole. 

Fried  brains  for  garnishing 

Soak  the  brains  in  cold  water  for  an  hour,  cover  with  fresh, 
cold  water  and  bring  to  a  boil.  Cook  for  three  minutes ;  drain, 
and  set  in  a  cold  place  for  an  hour.  Cut  in  thick  slices,  sprinkle 
with  salt  and  white  pepper;  dip  in  beaten  egg,  roll  in  cracker 
dust  and  set  in  a  cold  place  long  enough  for  the  coating  to  stiffen. 
Fry  in  deep  cottolene  or  other  fat. 

Scallop  of  calf's  brain 

Soak  brains  in  cold  water  for  an  hour,  then  boil  for  ten  min- 
utes. Drop  into  iced  water,  and  when  very  cold  cut  into  tiny 
dice.  Butter  a  pudding  dish,  put  in  a  layer  of  the  brains,  sprinkle 
with  pepper,  bits  of  butter  and  a  few  drops  of  onion  juice ;  then 
put  in  a  thin  layer  of  minced  ham.  Add  more  brains,  and  pro- 
ceed in  this  way  until  the  dish  is  full.  Sprinkle  the  top  with 
buttered  crumbs,  pour  a  cupful  of  veal  stock  over  all,  and  bake 
for  twenty  minutes. 


MEATS  385 

Brain  croquettes  for  garnishing 

Prepare  the  brains  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  chop  and  add  to 
them  butter,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Into  each  cupful  of  the 
mixture  stir  a  tablespoonful  of  crumbs  and  moisten  all  with 
cream.  Heat  in  a  double  boiler,  and  when  the  boiling  point  is 
reached  whip  in  slowly  a  beaten  egg,  and  remove  the  mixture 
from  the  fire.  Turn  upon  a  dish  to  cool  and  stiffen  before  form- 
ing into  small  croquettes.  Crumb  these  and  set  on  the  ice  for 
two  hours.  Fry  in  deep,  boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat. 

Any  dish  of  liver  or  calf's  head — in  fact  of  veal  in  any  form — 
is  made  elegant  by  a  garnish  of  brains,  fried  as  croquettes,  or  in 
slices. 

MUTTON 

Roast  leg  of  mutton  with  sorrel  sauce 

Wipe  a  leg  of  young  mutton  with  a  damp  cloth,  then  with  a 
dry.  Put  into  a  covered  roaster,  dash  a  cupful  of  boiling  water 
over  it  and  roast  at  the  rate  of  twelve  minutes  to  each  pound  of 
the  meat.  Fifteen  minutes  before  serving  remove  the  cover  and 
brown.  If  you  do  not  use  a  covered  roaster  baste  the  meat  every 
fifteen  minutes,  while  cooking,  with  the  gravy  in  the  pan. 

Do  not  send  made  mutton  gravy  to  the  table  with  it.  Pass 
currant  jelly  with  it  and  such  a  sauce  as  this: 

Mince  a  cupful  of  field  sorrel — young  and  tender — and  stir 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  rubbed  into  one  of  browned  flour 
into  a  cupful  of  boiling  water.  Add  the  sorrel,  a  dash  of  pap- 
rika and  salt.  Cook  for  one  minute,  take  from  the  fire  and  beat 
into  it,  a  very  little  at  a  time,  the  well- whipped  yolk  of  an  egg. 
Set  in  boiling  water  until  the  mutton  is  served.  It  must  not  cook. 

Boiled  leg  of  mutton 

Carefully  trim  the  meat,  cutting  off  all  loose  or  gristly  por- 
tions, and  wipe  with  a  damp  cloth.     Have  a  kettle  of  boiling 
water  and  put  in  the  meat,  boiling  fast  for  about  ten  minutes, 
25 


386  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

when  it  may  simmer  until  done.     Do  not  put  in  salt  or  pepper 
until  nearly  cooked.     Eat  with  caper  sauce. 

The  water  in  which  the  mutton  is  boiled  makes  excellent  Scotch 
broth,  or  plain  mutton  soup. 

Roast  shoulder  of  mutton 

Carefully  remove  the  bone,  or  shoulder  blade,  and  fill  the 
place  with  this  forcemeat :  One  cupful  of  fine  bread-crumbs,  one 
tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
onion,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  a  half-dozen  chopped  mushrooms 
— canned  or  fresh — and  melted  butter  to  moisten  the  mixture. 
Sew  up  the  slit  left  by  the  bone,  and  place  in  the  covered  roaster 
with  a  cupful  of  water  or  weak  stock.  Cook  quickly  at  first, 
basting  often,  and  allowing  for  cooking  about  fifteen  minutes  to 
the  pound.  Serve  with  sorrel  or  other  meat  sauce,  never  with 
made  gravy. 

Pass  string-beans,  tomatoes,  green  peas  or  young  turnips  with 
it. 

Stuffed  shoulder  of  lamb 

Have  the  bone  extracted  neatly,  and  fill  the  cavity  left  with  a 
stuffing  of  a  cupful  of  bread-crumbs,  a  dozen  raw  oysters, 
chopped  fine,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  melted,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  one  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  one- 
half  teaspoonful  of  paprika.  Roast  in  a  quick  oven.  Into  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  softened  butter  mix  one  tablespoonful,  each,  of 
chopped  parsley,  onion  and  lemon  juice,  and  kitchen  bouquet. 
Draw  the  meat,  when  done,  from  the  oven,  spread  it  with  this 
prepared  sauce,  and  return  to  the  oven  for  four  minutes.  Gar- 
nish with  small,  round,  fried  potatoes. 

Send  around  green  peas  with  it. 

Hotch-potch 

Cut  two  pounds  of  lean  mutton  into  neat  pieces  an  inch  square. 
Peel  and  slice  six  medium-sized  potatoes,  cut  into  dice,  and  par- 
boil for  five  minutes.  Parboil  also  a  dozen  small,  young  onions, 


MEATS  387 

no  larger  than  the  end  of  your  thumb.  Have  a  couple  of  kid- 
neys— calf's  or  lamb's — cut  into  dice,  and  drain  the.  liquor  from 
fifteen  small  oysters.  Put  a  layer  of  meat  dice  in  the  dish,  then 
a  layer  of  onions,  kidneys  and  potatoes.  Season  each  layer  of 
vegetables  with  pepper  and  salt.  Then  another  layer  of  meat, 
onions  and  kidneys,  and  the  remaining  potatoes.  Pour  on  a  cup- 
ful of  hot  water,  cover  the  pan  closely  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  three  hours.  Look  at  it  occasionally  and  add  more 
water  if  it  seems  dry. 

When  nearly  ready  to  serve  take  up  the  mixture  with  a  skim- 
mer, arrange  it  in  a  deep  hot  dish.  Add  the  oysters  to  the  gravy 
left  in  the  pan,  cook  till  they  ruffle,  add  more  seasoning  if  needed, 
and  pour  it  over  the  whole. 

Family  stew  of  lamb  and  peas 

Cut  two  pounds  of  coarse  lean  lamb  into  dice.  There  must  be 
neither  fat  nor  bone  in  it.  Fry  a  sliced  onion  brown  in  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  dripping  or  butter.  Strain  the  fa.t  back  into  the 
pan,  dredge  the  meat  with  flour  and  fry  for  three  minutes  in  it, 
turning  to  sear  both  sides.  Turn  meat  and  fat  into  a  saucepan, 
add  a  cupful  of  stock  or  of  butter  and  water,  cover  closely  and 
stew  for  an  hour,  or  until  the  lamb  is  tender.  Put  in  then  a  cup- 
ful of  green  peas  with  three  leaves  of  green  mint.  Cover  again 
and  cook  until  the  peas  are  tender,  but  not  until  they  break. 
Have  ready  a  broad  dish  lined  with  slices  of  toast  soaked  in 
tomato  sauce.  Take  up  meat  and  peas  in  a  perforated  skimmer 
and  lay  upon  the  tbast.  Keep  hot,  while  you  thicken  the  gravy 
left  in  the  pot  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  rolled  in  one  of 
browned  flour ;  season,  boil  up  and  pour  over  the  stew.  Let  it 
stand  one  minute  and  serve. 

Casserole  of  lamb  chops 

Trim  two  pounds  of  lean  chops  and  proceed  as  with  the  meat 
in  last  recipe  until  they  have  been  browned  in  the  fat. 

Now  turn  meat  and  fat  into  your  casserole,  in  the  bottom  of 
which  is  a  layer  of  pared  and  sliced  tomatoes.  Have  ready  half 


388  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

a  cupful  of  potato  balls  cut  with  a  "gouge"  and  parboiled  for 
five  minutes,  a  dozen  button  onions,  also  parboiled,  and  half  a 
can  of  champignons  (mushrooms).  Sprinkle  these  over  and  be- 
tween the  chops.  Pour  in  a  cupful  of  good  stock,  or  gravy, 
well  seasoned;  lastly,  another  layer  of  sliced  tomatoes,  salted, 
peppered,  sprinkled  with  sugar  and  dotted  with  butter.  Cover 
the  casserole  and  set  in  a  moderate  oven  for  two  hours. 

Drain  off  all  the  gravy  without  disturbing  the  rest  of  the  con- 
tents of  the  casserole.  Skim,  thicken  with  browned  flour,  add 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  boil  up,  pour  in  a  glass  of  sherry,  pour 
gently  back  into  the  casserole,  cover,  set  in  the  oven  for  three 
minutes  and  send  to  table,  covered. 

If  you  once  try  this  recipe  you  will  not  be  satisfied  until  the 
dish  it  represents  becomes  a  frequent  visitor  to  your  table. 


MEAT   AND   POULTRY   PIES 

Chicken  pie 

Cut  at  every  joint  a  pair  of  young  chickens.  Lay  on  ice  while 
you  make  a  gravy  of  the  pinions,  necks  and  feet — scalding  and 
skinning  the  feet  before  putting  with  the  rest  over  the  fire,  cov- 
ering deep  with  cold  water  and  bringing  slowly  to  the  boil.  Cook 
until  the  flesh  is  in  rags,  and  the  liquor  reduced  by  one-half. 
Strain,  season  highly  with  onion  juice,  salt  and  paprika,  thicken 
with  browned  flour  and  let  the  gravy  get  cole}. 

Meanwhile,  arrange  your  chicken  in  a  bake-dish;  lay  among 
the  pieces  either  well-seasoned  forcemeat  balls  no  larger  than 
marbles,  made  of  bread-crumbs  and  hard-boiled  yolks,  bound  with 
a  raw  egg,  or  canned  mushrooms.  Of  course,  fresh  mushrooms 
are  better  if  you  can  afford  them.  Put  in  a  cupful  of  cold  water, 
cover  with  a  good  crust,  half  an  inch  thick,  and  bake  for  an  hour 
and  a  half.  Lay  a  piece  of  stout  paper  over  the  pie  to  keep  it 
from  browning  too  fast.  When  you  remove  this  at  the  end  of 
an  hour  draw  the  pie  to  the  door  of  the  oven,  fit  a  funnel  into  a 
slit  left  in  the  center  of  the  crust  and  pour  in  all  the  gravy  it  will 


GAME  PIE  IN  NAPKINED  DISH 


SMALL   CHICKEN    PIE 


CHICKEN   PIE  IN    SILVER  STAND 


MEATS  389 

hold.  Do  this  very  quickly,  shut  up  the  oven  and  leave  the  pie 
in  until  done.  Remove  the  paper  ten  minutes  before  the  time  is 
up  and  brown  lightly. 

Cold  chicken  pie 

Make  precisely  as  in  last  recipe,  but  add  to  the  gravy  while 
hot  a  tablespoonful  of  gelatine  soaked  for  two  hours  in  cold 
water  enough  to  cover  it.  Pour  into  the  pie  as  already  directed. 
Let  the  pie  get  cold  before  eating  it.  The  gravy  will  be  jellied. 

This  is  a  nice  dish  for  Sunday  dinners  in  hot  weather. 


Fowl  pie 

Cut  an  old  fowl  into  joints,  splitting  the  back  and  dividing  the 
breast  into  quarters.  Put  over  the  fire  in  plenty  of  cold  water, 
season  with  onion  juice  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  No  salt 
and  no  pepper.  Cover  closely  and  simmer  very  gently  for  sev- 
eral hours  until  you  find  it  tender.  Strain  off  the  gravy  and 
season  with  onion  juice,  celery  salt,  a  bay-leaf,  minced  parsley, 
paprika  and  salt.  Return  the  gravy  to  the  fire,  stir  in  a  lump  of 
butter  rolled  in  browned  flour  and  cook  one  minute.  Arrange 
the  chicken  in  a  deep  bake-dish,  pour  in  the  gravy,  lay  over  the 
top  two  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  into  thin  slices,  cover  with  a  good 
crust,  and  bake. 

Chicken  pot  pies 

For  these  have  several  stoneware  or  other  fire-proof  deep 
dishes,  about  the  size  of  a  bird  bath.  Cut  up  a  young  fowl  into 
joints,  cover  with  cold  water  and  cook  tender,  but  not  until  the 
meat  leaves  the  bones.  Lay  a  piece  of  dark  meat  and  one  of  light 
in  each  dish;  sprinkle  with  minced  salt  pork,  and  drop  in  each 
dish  potato  marbles  which  have  been  parboiled  for  ten  minutes. 
Add  small  cubes  of  pastry,  three  to  each  dish,  and  two  small 
young  onions,  no  bigger  than  the  end  of  your  thumb.  Unless 
they  are  mere  infants,  parboil  them  five  minutes  before  they  go 
in.  Have  ready  two  cupfuls  of  the  liquor  in  which  the  chicken 
was  cooked.  Thicken  with  a  lump  of  butter  rolled  in  browned 


390  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

flour ;  season  with  paprika  and  minced  parsley.  The  pork  should 
salt  it  sufficiently.  Fill  the  dishes,  cover  each  with  a  good  crust, 
make  a  slit  in  the  middle  and  bake,  covered  with  paper,  half  an 
hour.  Then  brown. 

You  may,  if  you  like,  make  one  dish  of  this,  but  many  prefer 
the  individual  "portions." 

Chicken  and  ham  pie 

Cut  up  and  stew  the  chickens,  as  in  last  recipe.  Have  ready 
four  good-sized  slices  of  corned  ham  (not  smoked),  boiled  and 
cold,  and  cut  into  strips.  Put  a  layer  of  ham  in  the  bottom  of  a 
buttered  bake-dish,  season  with  chopped  mushrooms  and  parsley, 
salt  and  pepper,  and  add  a  layer  of  white  sauce,  the  base  of  which 
is  the  liquor  in  which  the  chickens  were  cooked.  Next,  place  in 
the  dish  the  pieces  of  chicken  in  regular  order,  and  upon  these 
the  yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs.  Repeat  the  seasoning  and  the 
sauce,  lay  a  few  strips  of  ham  over  the  top,  cover  with  a  good 
paste,  wash  the  pie  with  beaten  egg,  and  bake  for  an  hour  and  a 
half.  If  you  have  no  mushrooms  you  may  substitute  a  little 
mushroom  catsup. 

Veal  pie  (No,  1) 

Cut  three  pounds  of  lean  veal  into  inch-square  cubes ;  put  into 
a  saucepan  with  a  cupful  of  cold  water,  and  heat  slowly.  Remove 
the  scum  as  it  begins  to  boil;  add  two  small  onions,  sliced,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  carrot  cubes,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Let 
it  simmer  until  very  tender.  Put  the  meat  then  into  a  deep  bak- 
ing-dish. 

Let  the  liquor  boil  down  to  one  cupful  and  a  half,  strain  it  and 
remove  most  of  the  fat.  Add  one-half  cupful  of  cream  or  of  rich 
milk,  and  pepper  to  taste.  Thicken  it  with  a  tablespoonful  of 
flour  rubbed  in  one  of  butter ;  cook  it  five  minutes,  and  strain  it 
over  the  meat.  If  you  have  any  cold  boiled  ham  you  may  add 
a  little  of  it  to  the  veal,  cutting  it  into  tiny  pieces. 

Cover  with  a  rich  biscuit  dough,  half  an  inch  thick,  and  bake 
one  hour,  covered  with  thick  paper.  Uncover  and  brown. 


MEATS  391 

Veal  pie  (No.  2) 

Cut  two  pounds  of  coarse  lean  veal  into  cubes  and  cook  tender 
in  enough  cold  water  to  cover  it.  Have  ready  half  a  pound  of 
finely-minced  pork,  an  onion,  chopped  fine,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
finely-minced  olives,  a  stalk  of  celery  cut  fine,  and  a  tablespoonful 
of  chopped  parsley.  Put  a  stratum  of  veal  in  the  bottom  of  a  but- 
tered bake-dish  ;  cover  with  this  mixture  and  sprinkle  with  pa- 
prika and  with  butter.  When  all  the  materials  are  used  up  in 
this  order  fill  the  dish  with  gravy  made  by  thickening  the  liquor  in 
which  the  veal  was  stewed  with  browned  flour,  adding  a  table- 
spoonful  of  tomato  catsup,  and  boiling  one  minute.  Cover  with  a 
good  crust ;  make  a  slit  in  the  top  and  bake,  covered,  one  hour ; 
then  brown. 

Beef  and  tomato  pie 

Cut  a  pint  of  cold  roast  beef  into  small  dice  of  uniform  size, 
and  mix  with  it  two  or  three  slices  of  bacon,  also  cut  small.  Line 
a  deep  dish  with  good  puff  paste,  put  a  layer  of  the  beef  and 
bacon  in  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  season  with  pepper  and  salt, 
cover  with  a  layer  of  peeled  and  sliced  tomatoes.  Sprinkle  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  dots  of  butter  rolled  in  flour ;  add  more  meat 
and  more  tomatoes,  until  the  dish  is  full.  Cover  the  top  layer 
with  bits  of  butter,  them  with  a  crust  of  puff  paste,  making  holes 
in  this  for  the  escape  of  steam.  Bake  until  brown. 

Beef  and  potato  pie 

Moisten  three  cupfuls  of  minced  roast  beef  with  a  little  stock, 
season  to  taste,  and  put  it  into  a  greased  pudding-dish.  Into  a 
large  cupful  of  mashed  potatoes  beat  a  little  milk  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  melted  butter.  Season  this  potato  and  spread  it  over 
the  top  of  the  minced  beef.  Set  it  in  the  oven  and  bake,  covered, 
for  twenty  minutes ;  uncover,  wash  over  with  beaten  white  of 
eggs  and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes  longer,  or  until  it  is  lightly 
browned. 


392  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Beefsteak  pie 

Cut  two  pounds  of  round  steak  into  small  squares.  Cover 
(barely)  with  cold  water  and  cook  tender,  very  slowly.  Cut  two 
veal  kidneys  into  cubes  and  (if  you  can  get  it)  a  sweetbread, 
blanched  by  throwing  it  into  cold  water,  after  parboiling  it. 
Drain  the  liquor  from  the  beef,  and  let  both  get  almost  cold. 
Make  a  good  gravy  by  thickening  this  liquor  with  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  butter  rolled  in  browned  flour,  seasoning  well  with  kitchen 
bouquet,  onion  juice,  salt  and  pepper.  Let  it  simmer  two  min- 
utes. Arrange  the  beef,  kidneys  and  sweetbread  in  neat  layers 
in  the  dish,  interspersing  these  with  a  dozen  small  oysters.  Pour 
in  the  gravy,  cover  with  a  good  crust,  half  an  inch  thick,  and 
cook,  covered,  one  hour ;  then  brown. 

Kidney  pie 

Cut  four  kidneys  into  neat  squares  and  stew  gently  in  weak 
stock  for  half  an  hour.  Cook  a  quarter-pound  of  macaroni  till 
tender,  and  cut  it  into  inch  lengths.  Butter  a  baking-dish  and 
put  in  a  layer  of  macaroni ;  over  that  spread  a  layer  of  sliced 
kidneys,  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt  and  made  mustard.  Sprinkle 
over  a  little  flour,  and  add  a  layer  of  tomatoes.  Repeat  thesf 
layers  and  cover  with  fine  bread-crumbs  when  the  dish  is  filled. 
Pour  in  a  rich  gravy  made  from  the  stock  in  which  the  kidneys 
were  stewed ;  put  small  bits  of  butter  over  the  j&rumbs  on  top,  and 
bake  steadily  for  one  hour. 

Sweetbread  pie 

Blanch  two  sweetbreads  by  parboiling  for  ten  minutes,  then 
leaving  in  ice-cold  water  for  the  same  length  of  time.  When 
firm  cut  into  half-inch  squares.  Make  a  white  roux  by  cooking 
in  a  saucepan  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  in  two  of  butter,  add 
gradually  a  cupful  of  cream  heated  with  a  pinch  of  soda,  season 
with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  white 
pepper,  a  %f ew  grains  of  cayenne,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  stewed 


MEATS  393 

and  strained  tomato.  Put  the  sweetbreads  and  sauce  into  a  deep 
dish,  cover  with  a  rich  crust,  make  a  slit  in  the  center ;  bake,  cov- 
ered, half  an  hour,  then  brown.  Beat  one  egg,  add  half  a  cupful 
of  hot  cream,  and  pour  into  the  opening  in  the  crust  just  before 
serving. 

Mutton  chop  pie 

Trim  two  pounds  of  tender  chops  by  cutting  away  skin,  fat, 
and  two  inches  of  the  rib  bone.  With  the  refuse  trimmings  make 
a  gravy  by  cooking  slowly  three  hours  in  just  enough  water  to 
cover  them.  Let  it  cool,  skim  off  all  the  fat,  season  highly,  thick- 
en well  with  browned  flour,  boil  up  once  and  again  let  it  cool. 

Arrange  the  chops  on  the  inside  of  a  bake-dish,  overlapping  one 
another ;  fill  the  central  space  with  chopped  mushrooms,  a  chopped 
tomato,  six  small  button  onions  and  a  pint  of  green  peas.  Pour 
in  the  gravy ;  cover  with  a  good  crust,  make  a  slit  in  the  middle 
and  bake,  covered,  half  an  hour ;  then  brown. 

Veal  chop  pie 

May  be  made  as  above;  substituting  chopped  tomatoes  for  the 
green  peas.  In  this  case  have  the  gravy  very  thick,  as  the  tomato 
juice  will  thin  it. 

Small  pork  pies 

(A  Devonshire  recipe.) 

Chop  fine  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  beef  kidney  suet  and  mix 
with  it  an  equal  quantity  of  butter.  Rub  both  into  a  pound  of 
flour  and  set  all  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  until  the  butter  and 
suet  are  melted  and  the  flour  very  hot.  Knead  together  then 
into  a  stiff  paste,  cover  with  the  cloth  and  put  it  near  the  fire 
while  you  make  ready  the  meat.  There  should  be  about  two 
pounds  of  the  neck  of  pork,  and  this  should  be  cut  into  very 
small  pieces,  seasoned  liberally  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  powdered  sage,  and  cooked  gently  for  twenty-five  min- 
utes before  it  goes  into  the  pie.  The  paste  must  then  be  divided 
into  as  many  pieces  as  you  wish  to  have  pies,  and  these  must  be 


394  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

made  into  round  shapes — "built  up"  into  the  shape  of  round  pies. 
The  way  to  do  this  must  be  studied  carefully,  for  it  is  a  knack 
in  itself.  The  fist  is  put  into  the  middle  of  the  piece  of  dough 
from  which  the  pie  is  to  be  raised,  and  by  working  it  in  a  circular 
fashion  the  hollow  is  formed  which  is  to  receive  the  meat.  The 
process  should  really  be  seen  to  be  adequately  understood.  When 
the  pie  is  "raised"  the  meat  is  put  into  it,  a  round  of  paste  laid  on 
the  top  and  its  edge  pinched  to  that  of  the  lower  crust.  It  is 
then  baked  in  a  steady,  rather  slow,  oven. 

An  English  pork  pie 

Cook  two  pounds  of  lean  pork  for  half  an  hour  in  enough  weak 
stock  to  cover  it.  Let  it  get  cold  in  the  liquor  ( which  reserve  for 
the  gravy).  Take  out  the  cold  meat  and  cut  into  neat  dice.  But- 
ter a  deep  dish  and  lay  in  some  of  the  meat.  Cover  with  a  layer 
of  hard-boiled  eggs,  chopped  coarsely;  season  with  onion  juice, 
pepper,  salt  and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg.  Stick  bits  of  butter  here  and 
there.  Dust  with  browned  flour. 

Strain  and' reheat  the  liquor  in  which  the  meat  was  cooked; 
stir  in  a  lump  of  butter  rolled  in  browned  flour,  cook  one  minute, 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce ;  pour  into  the  pie,  and 
let  it  cool  before  covering  with  a  good  paste.  Cut  a  slit  in  the 
middle  of  the  crust ;  bake,  covered,  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
Uncover,  wash  with  white  of  egg  and  brown. 

Send  around  apple  sauce  with  it. 

A  New  England  pork  pie 

Boil  half  a  pound  of  "streaked"  salt  pork  with  a  sliced  onion 
and  four  parsnips  of  moderate  size.  Put  them  on  in  enough  cold 
water  to  cover  them,  and  boil  until  the  parsnips  are  tender,  the 
onion  cooked  to  rags.  Have  ready  three  fair-sized  potatoes, 
sliced  and  parboiled.  Slice  the  parsnips.  Cut  the  pork  into  very 
small,  thin  slices,  and  line  a  deep  dish  with  it.  Put  in  a  layer  of 
sliced  potatoes,  sprinkle  with  flour,  salt  and  pepper,  a  layer  of 
sliced  parsnips,  then  another  layer  of  each.  Add  enough  of  the 


MEATS  395 

water  in  which  the  pork  and  parsnips  were  boiled  to  fill  the  dish. 
Cover  with  a  good  crust,  and  bake  in  a  good  oven  one  hour. 

It  is  said  by  those  who  like  parsnips  to  be  very  good — consider- 
ing! 

Pigeon  pie 

Dress,  draw  and  singe  carefully  four  young  pigeons;  stuff1 
them  with  the  chopped  livers,  hearts  and  gizzards  and  fine 
crumbs,  mixed  with  chopped  parsley,  a  good  lump  of  butter,  pep- 
per and  salt.  Run  a  small  wooden  skewer  through  the  body  of 
each,  fastening  the  wings  to  the  sides.  Cover  the  bottom  of  your 
bake-dish  with  thin  strips  of  corned  ham;  season  with  chopped 
parsley,  mushrooms,  pepper  and  salt ;  over  these  lay  the  pigeons ; 
between  every  two  birds  put  the  yolk  of  an  egg  boiled  hard,  and 
two  or  three  in  the  center  also.  Add  to  the  dish  sufficient  thick 
brown  gravy  to  cover  the  pigeons,  cover  the  pie  with  puff-paste, 
and  bake  for  an  hour  and  a  half. 


PORK 

Roast  pig 

Lay  the  pig,  which  has  been  prepared  by  the  butcher,  in  cold 
water  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  wipe  dry,  inside  and  out.  Make 
a  stuffing  as  for  a  turkey,  and  work  into  it  two  beaten  eggs. 
Stuff  the  pig  to  his  original  size  and  shape.  Sew  him  up,  bend 
his  fore  legs  backward,  and  his  back  legs  forward  under  him, 
and  skewer  him  thus.  Dredge  him  with  flour  and  put  it,  with  a 
little  salted  water,  Vnto  a  covered  roaster.  Roast  for  an  hour  and 
a  half ;  remove  the  cover,  rub  the  pig  well  with  butter  and  return 
the  cover,  leaving  the  slide  open.  At  the  end  of  twenty  min- 
utes remove  the  cover  again,  rub  the  pig  once  more  with  butter, 
and  brown  him  for  ten  minutes.  Serve  very  hot  with  apple 
sauce. 

A  pig  for  roasting  should  not  weigh  over  six  or  seven  pounds 
after  it  is  cleaned.  If  larger,  it  is  gross  food.  The  meat  should 
be  as  delicate  as  chicken. 


396  MARION  '  HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Roast  pork 

Score  the  skin  until  the  knife  touches  the  meat  under  it.  Rub 
into  these  lines  or  squares  a  mixture  of  fine  crumbs  seasoned  with 
onion  juice,  a  little  grated  lemon-peel  and  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Work  in  well  until  the 
stuffing  stands  out  of  the  cracks.  Put  into  your  roaster,  with  a 
cupful  of  hot  water  under  it,  and  after  covering  bring  quickly  to 
the  point  at  which  the  water  begins  to  steam.  Slacken  the  heat 
then,  and  cook  twenty-five  minutes  to  the  pound,  basting  often 
with  its  own  gravy. 

Pour  off  this  gravy  twenty  minutes  before  taking  the  meat  up, 
and  set  in  a  bowl  of  ice  to  send  all  the  fat  to  the  top.  Greasy 
pork  gravy  is  an  offense  to  the  educated  palate.  Thicken  with 
browned  flour. 

A  better  plan  is  not  to  attempt  to  make  gravy,  but  to  send 
around  apple  sauce  alone  with  the  roast. 

Chine  of  pork  braised  with  apples 

Instruct  your  butcher  to  cut  the  chine  with  plenty  of  meat  on 
both  sides  of  the  bone.  Sprinkle  it  well  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  lightly  with  sage  and  sweet  marjoram.  Pare,  core  and  cut 
into  thick  slices  three  large,  tart  apples.  Cover  the  grating  of 
your  roaster  with  them,  strew  with  sugar  and  lay  the  chine  upon 
them.  Dot  the  meat  with  butter ;  cover  and  roast  twenty-five 
minutes  to  the  pound.  At  the  end  of  that  time  transfer  the  meat 
to  a  dripping-pan,  turning  it  over  that  the  side  which  has  lain 
upon  the  apples  may  be  uppermost.  Wash  ilvith  butter,  cover 
thick  with  salted  and  peppered  crumbs,  and  brown  upon  the  upper 
grating  of  a  hot  oven  while  you  make  the  gravy. 

To  do  this  rub  the  cooked  apple  and  the  liquor  with  them 
through  a  colander  into  a  saucepan,  add  a  little  hot  water,  a  lump 
of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  and,  if  very  tart,  a  little  sugar ;  pepper 
and  salt  to  taste,  boil  up  and  turn  into  a  boat. 

Serve  peas,  pudding  or  beans  in  some  shape  with  the  chine. 


MEATS  397 

Pork  tenderloins 

Broil  over  a  clear,  steady  fire,  turning  as  often  as  they  begin  to 
drip.  Allow  twenty  minutes,  if  small ;  more  when  large.  Lay 
upon  a  heated  dish,  cover  with  a  mixture  of  butter,  lemon  juice, 
onion  juice,  pepper,  salt  and  a  dash  of  powdered  sage.  Turn 
over  and  over  in  this  is  it  melts;  cover  closely  and  leave  over 
hot  water  several  minutes  to  let  the  seasoning  sink  into  the  meat. 

Serve  browned  whole  potatoes  and  apple  sauce  with  them. 

Boiled  ham 

Soak  eight  hours,  and  scrub  it  hard  with  a  stiff  brush  or  whisk 
to  get  out  salt  and  dirt.  Cover  with  an  abundance  of  cold  water, 
and  put  into  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar.  Heat  very  grad- 
ually. At  the  end  of  the  first  hour  it  should  not  have  reached 
the  boiling  point.  Simmer  gently  four  or  five  hours.  Allow 
twenty  minutes  to  every  pound  for  a  corned  ham ;  twenty-five  for 
a  smoked.  Let  it  get  almost  cold  in  the  liquor — entirely  cold 
before  you  skin  it. 

Barbecued  fresh  ham 

Score  the  rind  with  a  sharp  knife.  Mix  one  tablespoonful  of 
mustard  seed,  half  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  celery  seed  and  pepper 
corns  with  one  cupful  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of  vinegar  and  two 
cupfuls  of  water.  Let  these  stand  ten  minutes,  then  pour  it  over 
the  ham.  Turn  it  in  this  pickle  several  times  during  the  day. 
Next  morning  put  the  ham  into  your  covered  roaster  in  a  slow 
oven,  fat  side  down,  for  the  first  hour.  Strain  the  pickle  and  keep 
it  hot  on  the  back  of  the  stove.  Baste  the  ham  frequently  with  it 
and  bake  four  hours,  or  until  tender. 

All  of  the  pickle  should  have  been  used  in  basting.  Lay  the 
ham  upon  a  heated  dish  and  keep  hot  over  boiling  water  while 
you  make  the  gravy.  Strain  the  liquor,  thicken  with  browned 
flour,  add  salt  to  taste,  simmer  for  five  minutes  and  pour  part 
over  the  meat,  the  rest  into  a*  boat. 

Those  who  are  fond  of  hot  fresh  pork  can  not  do  better  than  to 
try  this.  It  is  also  delicious  cold. 


398  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Breaded  ham 

Boil  as  directed  in  recipe  for  boiled  ham.  When  cold,  skin  and 
rub  all  over  with  flour.  Next,  brush  with  beaten  egg,  sift  fine 
crumbs  thickly  over  the  egg,  then  more  egg  and  another  coat  of 
crumbs.  Dust  with  pepper  and  brown  gradually. 

Eat  cold,  garnished  with  parsley. 

Baked  ham 

Is  seldom  really  "baked."  Boil  a  ham  eighteen  minutes  to  the 
pound;  leave  it  one  hour  in  the  liquor  in  which  it  was  cooked; 
take  it  out  and  let  it  get  really  cold  and  firm  before  stripping  off 
the  skin.  Rub  the  upper  side  with  white  of  egg  and  sift  over 
it  bread  dust  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Pepper  lightly,  and  set 
in  the  oven  for  half  an  hour,  or  until  the  coating  is  well  short- 
ened by  the  oozing  fat,  and  of  a  nice  brown.  Let  it  get  cold  to 
the  very  bone  before  serving  it.  If  you  like  a  suspicion  of  onion 
flavoring,  wash  the  surface  to  be  breaded  with  onion  juice  before 
going  over  it  with  the  white  of  an  egg. 

Baked  corned  ham 

Soak  over  night.  In  the  morning  scrub  hard  and  pare  away 
the  underside  until  the  meat  and  fat  show  red  and  white.  Wash 
well  with  vinegar  and  do  not  wipe.  Lay,  skin  downward,  in 
your  roaster,  covering  the  side  you  have  pared  with  a  thick  paste 
of  flour  and  water.  Have  ready  a  mixture  of  one  cupful  of  cold 
water  and  half  as  much  vinegar,  a  tablespoonful  of  molasses  and 
one  of  onion  juice.  Pour  around  the  ham;  cover  closely  and 
bake  half  an  hour  to  the  pound,  after  the  water  is  hot.  Baste  six 
times  with  the  liquor  in  the  pan. 

Take  up,  scrape  off  the  paste,  remove  the  skin,  dusting  instant- 
ly and  thickly  with  fine  cracker-crumbs  to  stop  the  escape  of  the 
juices.  There  should  be  a  cracker  crust  a  quarter-inch  thick. 
Set  upon  the  upper  grating  to  brown. 


MEATS  309 

Stuffed  ham 

Wash  a  ham  and  soak  over  night ;  then,  with  a  narrow,  sharp 
blade,  remove  the  bone.  Fill  the  cavity  thus  left  with  a  force- 
meat of  bread-crumbs,  seasoned  with  pepper  and  moistened  with  a 
little  water  in  which  a  spoonful  of  butter  has  been  melted.  Sew 
the  ham  up  closely  in  a  piece  of  cheese-cloth  and  boil  until  done, 
allowing  twenty  minutes  to  the  pound.  Leave  it  in  the  water 
until  cold,  transfer  to  a  platter  and  put  under  a  heavy  weight  for 
twelve  hours.  Now  remove  the  cloth  and  the  skin,  and  sprinkle 
the  ham  with  pepper  before  sending  to  the  table. 

To  pickle  pork 

Mix  together  four  and  a  half  pounds  of  salt,  a  pound  of  brown 
sugar  and  one  ounce  of  saltpeter,  stirred  into  three  gallons  of 
water.  Boil  for  half  an  hour,  skimming  every  ten  minutes.  Set 
aside  to  cool,  and  when  cold  pour  over  the  meat  packed  in  a 
crock  or  keg. 

Virginia  recipe  for  curing  ham 

Put  the  ham  into  pickle  made  by  putting  into  one  and  one-half 
gallons  of  water  one-half  pound  of  brown  sugar,  one-half  ounce 
of  saltpeter  and  two  and  one-quarter  pounds  of  salt.  Boil  this 
mixture  for  half  an  hour,  skimming  frequently ;  then  set  aside  to 
cool  and  pour  over  the  ham.  Leave  for  two  weeks,  remove  the 
ham,  wash  it  in  fresh  water;  dip  it,  still  wet,  in  bran,  and  coat 
thickly  with  it.  Now  take  to  the  smokehouse  and  hang,  hock 
end  down,  in  smoke  from  hickory  chips  and  sawdust  for  four 
weeks.  Brush  off  the  bran,  wrap  in  brown  paper  and  hang  up 
until  needed. 


POULTRY 

BOAST   TURKEY 

Draw,  with  care  not  to  break  the  gall-bag.  Wash  out  the 
cavity  three  times  with  cold  water,  adding  a  little  soda  to  the 
second  water.  You  can  not  be  too  careful  in  this  part  of  your 
task. 

Fill  the  body  and  craw  with  some  one  of  the  stuffings  or  "dress- 
ings" given  below.  Sew  up  the  body  and  tie  the  skin  covering 
the  craw  securely  about  the  "scrag"  or  neck  with  cotton  twine. 
Bind  the  legs  and  wings  snugly  to  the  body  with  cotton  tape  or 
strips  of  muslin.  If  the  fowl  be  rather  scrawny  cover  the  breast 
with  thin  slices  of  fat  salt  pork.  Put  upon  the  grating  of  your 
covered  roaster.  Pour  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  over  it  to  sear 
the  skin  and  keep  in  the  juices;  cover  and  cook  fifteen  minutes 
to  the  pound,  quite  fast  for  twelve  minutes  or  so,  afterward 
steadily  but  slowly.  Baste  four  times,  each  time  very  thoroughly, 
with  the  gravy  from  the  pan. 

A  quarter  of  an  hour  before  taking  the  turkey  up,  uncover  and 
wash  over  with  butter,  then  dredge  with  flour,  and  shut  up  in 
the  oven  to  brown. 

Make  the  gravy  by  stirring  into  the  contents  of  the  dripping- 
pan  (when  you  have  removed  the  turkey  and  are  keeping  it  hot) 
the  giblets,  minced  almost  to  powder,  a  tablespoonful  of  browned 
flour  wet  up  with  cold  water,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Skim 
before  you  add  anything.  Boil  one  minute  and  pour  into  a  gravy- 
boat. 

Always  serve  cranberry  sauce  with  turkey,  when  you  can  get  it. 

Bread  dressing  for  turkey 

To  a  large  cupful  of  crumbs  allow  a  tablespoonful  of  minced 
fat  pork.  Season  with  pepper  and,  if  you  like,  a  little  minced 

400 


POULTRY  401 

parsley.     A  little  onion  juice  is  an  improvement.     Moisten  very 
slightly  with  cream,  or  milk. 


Sausage  dressing  for  turkey 

Make  as  in  last  recipe,  substituting  sausage-meat  for  the  pork. 
If  partially  cooked  before  it  goes  into  the  dressing,  it  is  more 
wholesome. 

Oyster  stuffing  for  turkey 

Make  a  stuffing  for  turkey  in  the  ordinary  way  of  dried  bread- 
crumbs seasoned  with  parsley,  thyme  and  sweet  marjoram,  and 
moistened  with  melted  butter.  To  this  add  twenty  small  oysters 
chopped  fine,  and  with  this  stuff  the  breast  of  the  turkey. 

Or  to  the  ordinary  seasoned  bread-stuffing  for  a  turkey  add 
two  dozen  small  oysters,  moisten  the  crumbs  slightly  with  the 
oyster  liquor,  and  fill  the  breast  of  the  turkey  with  the  mixture. 

Chestnut  stuffing  for  turkey 

Boil  one  quart  of  the  large  French  or  Italian  chestnuts,  shell 
and  peel  them.  Mash  smooth  and  rub  into  them  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  butter,  and  salt  and  white  pepper  to  taste.  Stuff  the  tur- 
key with  this  as  you  would  any  other  kind  of  dressing. 

Fillets  of  turkey  with  rice 

Skin  the  breast  of  a  plump  turkey,  and  slice  away  the  breast. 
Use  a  sharp  knife  and  hold  it  almost  horizontal  while  at  work. 
The  slices  should  be  nearly  half  an  inch  thick,  and  as  nearly  uni- 
form in  size  as  possible.  Dip  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  salted  and 
peppered  cracker-crumbs ;  again  in  the  egg,  and  once  more  in 
the  crumbs.  Set  on  the  ice  while  you  cook  the  rice. 

Put  one  cupful  of  clear  chicken  or  turkey  stock  into  a  sauce- 
pan; add  a  cupful  of  rice,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice, 
and  the  same  of  salt,  and  simmer  slowly  until  the  liquid  is  ab- 
26 


402  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

sorbed.  When  the  rice  is  tender  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  but- 
ter; one  tablespoonful  of  grated  cheese,  and  season  to  taste. 
Cover  and  let  it  stand  at  the  side  of  the  fire  until  the  fillets  are 
ready.  Heat  five  or  six  spoonfuls  of  pure  salad  oil  slowly  in  a 
frying-pan,  and  when  it  boils,  cook  the  fillets  in  it  to  a  nice  brown. 
Mound  the  savory  rice  in  the  center  of  a  hot  dish  and  lay  the 
fillets  about  it. 

When  properly  made  this  is  an  elegant  entree. 

Boast  turkey,  rechauffe 

When  but  half  of  a  large  turkey  has  been  cut  away,  the  re- 
mainder can  be  made  presentable  for  a  second  serving  by  "brais- 
ing" it  thus : 

Cut  very  thin  slices  of  fat  salt  pork  and  cover  the  untouched 
side  with  them,  binding  in  place  with  soft  twine.  Lay  the  turkey, 
cut-side  downward,  in  your  covered  roaster ;  pour  a  large  cupful 
of  weak  stock  or  gravy  under  the  grating,  put  on  the  lid  and 
cook  one  hour,  slowly,  basting  several  times  with  the  gravy  in 
the  pan  below  the  roast.  Take  up  the  turkey,  remove  the  pork, 
dredge  with  flour  and  set  back  in  the  oven,  basting  it  with  butter 
to  "glaze"  it  as  soon  as  the  flour  is  wet  through.  Shut  up  to 
brown  when  you  have  drained  away  the  gravy. 

Strain  this  through  a  colander,  thicken  with  browned  flour, 
add  half  a  can  of  minced  champignons,  cook  two  minutes,  and 
pour  into  a  boat. 

Scallop  of  turkey  anfl  oysters 

Cut  cold  roast  or  boiled  turkey  into  inch-lengths,  free  from 
skin  and  gristle,  and  put  a  layer  in  the  bottom  of  a  buttered  bake- 
dish.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  dot  with  butter  and  cover 
with  minced  raw  oysters.  Season  this  layer,  scatter  fine  crumbs 
over  it,  put  in  more  seasoned  turkey,  and  go  on  in  this  order  until 
your  materials  are  used  up.  Pour  in,  then,  a  cupful  of  gravy 
made  by  boiling  down  bones  and  stuffing  in  a  quart  of  water  until 
reduced  to  one-third  the  original  quantity  of  liquid-,  and  straining 


POULTRY  403 

out  the  bones.  Cover  with  fine  crumbs,  dot  with  butter  and 
bake,  covered,  forty-five  minutes,  then  brown.  You  may  omit 
the  oysters,  and  have  a  plain  turkey  scallop. 

Or  substitute  chopped  mushrooms  for  the  minced  oysters. 

Turkey  and  sausage  pudding 

This  is  a  good  way  of  using  yesterday's  turkey,  if  there  is  not 
a  sightly  half  left  to  be  set  on  again. 

Into  a  buttered  bake-dish  put  a  layer  of  turkey,  cut — not 
chopped — into  half-inch  lengths.  Drop  bits  of  butter  over  it, 
but  no  other  seasoning.  Cover  with  minced,  cooked  sausage- 
meat,  and  this  with  three  or  four  olives  chopped  fine.  Proceed 
in  this  way  until  the  dish  is  ready  for  the  crust.  Pour  in  a  cupful 
of  rich  gravy  made  of  bones  and  stuffing ;  cover  with  a  good  bis- 
cuit-dough half  an  inch  thick ;  cut  a  hole  in  the  middle  and  bake, 
covered,  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  then  brown. 

Ragout  of  turkey 

Break  the  carcass  of  a  roast  turkey  all  to  pieces,  and  chop  what 
remnants  of  stuffing  you  have.  Add  a  quart  of  cold  water,  and 
cook  slowly  until  you  have  but  a  cupful  of  liquid.  Strain  and  let 
it  get  cold.  Skim  off  the  fat,  season  with  onion  juice,  kitchen 
bouquet,  salt  and  paprika,  and  set  over  the  fire  with  the  turkey 
meat,  cut  into  neat  cubes,  and  a  half  cupful  of  champignons  (or 
fresh  mushrooms,  if  you  have  them).  Bring  quickly  to  a  boil, 
thicken  well  with  browned  flour,  boil  up,  add  a  glass  of  claret 
and  serve.  Lay  sippets  of  fried  bread  around  the  ragout. 


Boiled  turkey 

An  undeniably  tough  turkey  would  be  better  boiled  than 
roasted. 

Clean,  wash  and  fill  with  oyster-stuffing,  for  which  a  recipe 
was  given  a  few  pages  back.  Truss  closely  and  sew  up  in  a 
clean  piece  of  white  mosquito-netting.  Lay  in  a  pan  and  pour 


404  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

boiling  water  all  over  it  from  the  tea-kettle,  slowly,  to  toughen 
the  skin  and  keep  in  the  juices.  Roll  the  turkey  over  and  over 
in  his  hot  bath,  take  out  at  the  end  of  two  minutes ;  put  into  a 
pot,  cover  deep  with  cold  water,  and  heat  gradually  to  a  boil. 
Cook  fifteen  minutes  to  the  pound,  always  gently.  If  the  turkey 
be  large  and  old,  give  him  twenty  minutes  for  each  pound.  Take 
the  pot  from  the  range,  leave  it  covered  for  twenty  minutes  with 
the  bird  in  it.  Take  him  out,  unwrap  quickly,  dish,  wash  freely 
with  hot  butter  well-seasoned  with  salt  and  white  pepper;  pour 
a  few  spoonfuls  of  hot  drawn  butter  over  him,  and  serve.  Send 
oyster  sauce  around  with  boiled  turkey. 


DUCKS 

Roast  ducks 

Draw  and  clean,  washing  the  inside  in  three  waters,  the  second 
having  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-soda  mixed  with  it. 

Plunge  into  ice-cold  water;  leave  them  there  for  fifteen  min- 
utes ;  wipe  well  inside  and  out,  and  stuff  with  a  forcemeat  of  dry 
crumbs  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  onion  juice  and  finely  minced 
parsley. 

Personally,  I  do  not  like  sage  in  the  stuffing.  It  gives  a  "med- 
icated tang,"  to  my  way  of  thinking — or  tasting.  Many  people, 
however,  insist  upon  adding  the  venerable  simple  to  the  force- 
meat. Do  not  moisten  the  stuffing.  Put  it  in  dry,  packing  well. 
Dredge  the  ducks  with  peppered  and  salted  flour;  lay  upon  the 
grating  of  your  roaster,  pour  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  over  them, 
and  roast,  covered,  from  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes  to  the  pound, 
according  to  age.  Baste  four  times  with  the  gravy  from  the 
dripping-pan.  Uncover,  wash  with  butter,  dredge  with  flour 
and  brown. 

To  make  the  gravy,  drain  off  the  liquor  from  the  pan;  set  in 
ice-water  to  throw  up  the  grease,  strain,  add  the  giblets  minced 
very  fine,  thicken  with  browned  flour,  and  boil  for  two  minutes. 


BRAISED    SWEETBREADS  PAIR   ROAST   DUCKS 


ROAST   TURKEY 


PAIR   BOILED  FOWLS   GARNISHED    WITH    SLICED   EGG 


SCALLOPED  CHICKEN 


POULTRY  AND  ENTREES 


POULTRY  405 

Serve  with  currant  jelly,  or  apple  sauce,  and  pass  green  peas 
with  them. 

Braised  ducks 

Young  ducks  are  essential  for  this  purpose.  Lay  three  slices 
of  fat  corned  ham  upon  the  grating  of  your  roaster,  and  upon 
them  a  minced  onion,  a  stalk  of  celery,  chopped,  a  sliced  carrot 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  Clean  and  truss,  but 
do  not  stuff  the  ducks;  lay  them  upon  the  prepared  "bed,"  and 
pour  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  over  them.  Cover  the  pan  and 
let  them  cook,  closely  covered,  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about 
two  hours.  Take  up  the  ducks,  strain  the  liquor  from  the  pan, 
and  let  it  cool  enough  to  remove  all  the  fat.  Then  put  it  into 
a  saucepan,  and  let  it  boil.  Add  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice, 
and  thicken  it  slightly  with  browned  flour.  Return  the  fowls  to 
the  sauce  till  hot  again,  then  serve  with  the  sauce  poured  over 
them. 

Creole  salmi  of  duck 

Melt  in  a  saucepan  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  and  stir  into 
this  a  half  tablespoonful,  each,  of  chopped  ham,  onion,  celery, 
sweet  pepper  and  parsley,  with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  a  quarter 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  half  teaspoonful  of  paprika.  Stir 
for  three  minutes,  then  add  a  cupful  of  consomme,  two  cloves  and 
a  blade  of  mace.  Simmer  for  an  hour ;  strain  and  add  to  it  two 
cupfuls  of  cold  duck,  cut  into  neat  pieces  an  inch  long.  Boil  one 
minute  to  heat  the  meat  thoroughly,  and  serve. 

Garnish  with  sippets  of  fried  bread. 


CHICKENS 

Roast  chickens 

Singe  to  get  rid  of  down,  draw  and  wash  well,  rinsing  the 
cavity  of  each  fowl  with  soda  and  water.  Wipe  and  fill  bodies 
and  craws  with  a  stuffing  of  dry  crumbs,  well-seasoned  with 


406  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

pepper,  salt  and  butter.    Tie  up  the  neck  and  bind  legs  and  wings 
close  to  the  body  with  soft  cord  or  tapes. 

Lay  upon  the  grating  of  your  covered  roaster;  dash  a  cupful 
of  boiling  water  over  them,  cover,  and  roast  fifteen  minutes  to 
the  pound.  Drain  off  the  gravy,  and  set  in  iced  water  to  throw 
up  the  fat.  Wash  the  chickens  over  with  butter,  dredge  with 
flour  and  brown.  Clip  the  threads  and  dish.  Thicken  the  gravy 
with  browned  flour,  add  the  chopped  giblets  (previously  boiled 
tender),  boil  up  once  and  turn  into  a  boat. 

Boiled  fowls 

Prepare  as  for  roasting ;  sew  up  in  white  netting,  or  in  coarse 
lace,  and  souse,  four  times  in  boiling  water.  Then  put  over  the 
fire  in  cold,  slightly  salted  water,  covering  deeply;  bring  slowly 
to  the  boil,  and  cook  gently  fifteen  minutes  to  the  pound. 

Have  ready  egg-  or  oyster-sauce,  or  bread-sauce.  Pour  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  hot  butter,  salted  and  peppered,  over  the  chickens, 
the  rest  into  a  boat. 

Smothered  chickens 

Broilers,  and  other  really  young  fowls,  are  necessary  for  this 
dish.  Split  down  the  back  when  you  have  cleaned  and  washed 
them.  Lay  them  out  flat  on  the  grating  of  your  roaster,  skin  side 
down,  and  put  into  a  very  hot  oven,  covered.  Have  ready  half 
a  cupful  of  melted  butter,  and  after  five  minutes  baste  the  chickens 
well  with  this.  Turn  them  as  soon  as  the  inside  has  colored 
slightly;  baste  again  with  butter;  when  nearly  done  dredge 
thickly  with  flour  and  wash  again  with  butter.  When  they  are 
brown,  and  the  flesh  is  tender  in  the  joints,  they  are  done.  Thirty 
minutes  should  be  sufficient.  Baste  frequently,  and  as  soon  as 
they  are  browned  you  may  add  a  little  hot  water  to  the  butter. 

Take  up  the  chickens  and  keep  them  hot,  thicken  the  gravy 
with  browned  flour,  and  boil  one  minute  before  pouring  into  a 
boat. 

If  the  chickens  are  large,  make  a  gash  at  each  joint  before  cook- 
ing, and  cook  longer.  This  is  sometimes  called  "baked  broiled 
chicken,"  sometimes,  "chicken  broiled  in  the  oven." 


POULTRY  407 

Broiled  chicken 

When  you  have  cleaned  and  washed  the  young  chickens,  split 
down  the  back,  so  as  to  leave  the  breast  in  one  piece.  Lay  in 
lemon  juice  and  salad  oil  for  half  an  hour,  wipe  lightly,  pepper 
and  salt,  and  lay  within  a  well-greased  broiler,  skin  side  upper- 
most. Broil  ten  or  twelve  minutes  to  the  pound,  according  to  age 
and  weight,  turning  often  and  never  allowing  it  to  drip  upon 
the  coals.  When  done,  lay,  breast  upward,  upon  a  hot  dish,  rub 
all  over  with  a  mixture  of  butter,  lemon  juice  and  minced  pars- 
ley, and  serve. 

Pass  fried  potatoes  with  it. 

Baked  fried  chicken 

Here  again  you  must  have  young  chickens.  Clean,  wash  and 
cut  up  at  every  joint,  dividing  the  breast  into  two  pieces.  Lay 
in  a  marinade  of  salad  oil  and  lemon  juice  for  half  an  hour; 
drain,  but  do  not  wipe.  Roll  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  cracker- 
crumbs.  Repeat  the  process  and  leave  on  the  ice  for  an  hour. 
Lay,  then,  upon  the  grating  of  your  roaster,  pour  a  little  gravy 
in  the  pan  beneath,  and  cover  closely.  At  the  end  of  twenty 
minutes,  baste  with  melted  butter,  carefully,  not  to  disturb  the 
crumb  coating;  re-cover,  and  at  the  end  of  half  an  hour  more, 
baste  plentifully  with  the  gravy.  Now  let  them  brown.  Send 
bread-sauce  in  with  them,  and  garnish  with  parsley. 

Braised  chicken 

Cover  the  grating  of  your  roaster  with  a  blanket  of  vegetables ; 
a  carrot,  a  small  young  turnip,  an  onion,  a  young  carrot,  a  stalk 
of  celery,  all  cut  up  small ;  a  little  chopped  parsley,  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  finely  minced  salt  pork.  Have  ready  the  chicken, 
cleaned  and  trussed,  but  not  stuffed.  Lay,  breast  upward,  on  the 
vegetables  and  pork.  Pour  a  little  boiling  water  over  him  from 
the  teakettle,  and  set,  covered,  in  the  oven.  Cover  closely  and 
cook  at  least  twenty  minutes  to  the  pound  if  the  chicken  be  young. 


408  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

If  old,  extend  the  time.  At  the  end  of  one  hour  lift  the  cover  and 
baste  with  butter,  then  with  the  water  from  the  pan,  and  shut 
up  for  an  hour  longer.  Uncover  then,  rub  with  butter,  dredge 
with  flour  and  brown. 

Drain  the  gravy  with  the  vegetables  from  the  pan,  rub  through 
a  colander  into  a  saucepan,  thicken  with  browned  flour,  boil  up 
and  serve  in  a  boat. 

Baked  chicken 

Clean  as  usual,  and  cover  with  thin  slices  of  cold  boiled  ham. 
Corned  ham  is  better  than  smoked,  but  either  will  do.  Wind  fine 
cotton  cord  around  and  around  the  ham  to  hold  it  in  place;  lay 
upon  the  grating  of  your  roaster ;  pour  over  it  a  cup  of  boiling 
hot  stock,  scatter  parsley  and  sprinkle  onion  juice  upon  it;  cover 
closely  to  keep  in  the  steam  and  cook  slowly  twenty-five  minutes 
to  the  pound.  Baste  three  times  within  the  first  hour.  Test  with 
a  skewer  or  a  fork.  If  tender,  it  should  be  unwrapped,  basted 
with  butter,  dredged  with  flour  and  left  uncovered  to  brown. 

Garnish  with  the  ham  cut  into  strips.  Thicken  the  gravy  with 
browned  flour,  season  and  cook  one  minute. 

Fricasseed  chicken 

Clean  as  usual,  and  dissect  so  thoroughly  that  the  carver  will 
have  nothing  for  his  knife  to  do  in  "helping"  the  dish.  The 
breast  and  the  back  should  be  in  two  pieces,  each,  and  every  joint 
be  separate  from  the  next. 

Wash,  but  do  not  wipe.  Arrange  the  pieces,  dripping  wet,  in 
a  pot,  scatter  over  each  layer  minced  onion,  parsley  and  chopped 
fat  pork ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Cover  the  pot  very  closely 
and  set  it  where  it  will  not  begin  to  boil  under  an  hour.  Increase 
the  heat  somewhat,  but  cook  slowly  throughout.  Cook  until  done! 
The  toughest  tendons  will  yield  to  slow  stewing  in  time. 

When  assured  that  your  end  is  gained,  take  out  the  meat  with 
a  split  spoon,  heap  upon  a  platter,  the  white  at  one  end,  the  dark  at 
the  other,  and  keep  hot  while  making  the  gravy.  To  do  this,  pour 
into  a  bowl,  set  in  iced  water  to  make  the  fat  rise.  Skim,  return 


POULTRY  409 

to  the  pot  and  add  a  cupful  of  hot  milk  thickened  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  rubbed  into  one  of  flour.  Boil  one  minute — 
when  you  have  added  a  pinch  of  soda.  Have  ready  two  well 
beaten  eggs,  add  the  boiling  gravy  gradually  and  pour  over  the 
chicken. 

This  is  an  old  family  recipe  and  warranted  excellent. 

Pass  boiled  rice  with  this  dish. 

A  brown  fricassee 

Prepare  as  for  ordinary  fricassee.  Fry  half  a  pound  of  fat 
salt  pork,  sliced  thin,  in  a  pan ;  when  they  hiss  and  smoke,  put  in 
a  large  sliced  onion  and  cook  until  it  colors.  Now  dredge  the  pieces 
of  chicken  with  flour  and  fry,  a  few  pieces  at  a  time,  in  the  same 
fat,  turning  several  times.  When  they  begin  to  brown  turn  all  into 
a  pot  with  the  shreds  of  pork  and  onion.  Add  a  very  small  cupful 
of  stock ;  cover  closely  and  cook  until  done. 

Have  ready  a  brown  roux,  made  by  cooking  together  a  great 
spoonful  of  butter  with  the  same  of  browned  flour.  Stir  in  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  kitchen  bouquet,  and  add  to  the  gravy  left  in  the  pot 
after  the  chicken  is  dished.  Cook  two  minutes  and  pour  over  the 
dished  chicken.  Set  in  the  oven  for  three  minutes  before  serv- 
ing. 

A  pilau  of  chicken 

Joint  a  tender  broiler  and  leave  for  half  an  hour  in  a  bath  of 
salad  oil  and  lemon  juice.  Drain,  without  wiping.  Have  ready 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  hissing  hot,  in  a  frying-pan.  Fry 
a  sliced  onion  in  it,  and  then  put  in  the  chicken.  Cook  for  ten 
minutes,  turning  often,  and  empty  the  contents  of  the  pan  into  a 
pot  with  a  broad  bottom.  Pour  upon  them  a  cupful  of  strained 
tomato  sauce,  and  the  same  of  weak  stock — chicken  or  veal.  Stew 
gently  until  the  chicken  is  tender ;  take  it  up  and  keep  in  a  hot 
colander  set  in  the  oven  and  covered  closely.  Drain  off  every  drop 
of  gravy,  return  to  the  fire  and  add  three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of 
rice  which  has  soaked  for  an  hour  in  cold  water.  Cook  fast  until 
the  rice  is  soft  but  not  broken.  Put  the  chicken  back  into  the  pot, 


4io  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

mixing  well  with  the  rice,  simmer  three  minutes  and  heap  upon  a 
heated  platter.     Sift  Parmesan  cheese  thickly  over  all. 


Boiled  chicken  stuffed  with  oysters 

Prepare  as  usual  for  boiling  or  roasting,  then  fill  body  and 
craw  with  small  oysters,  which  have  been  dipped  in  peppered  and 
salted  melted  butter.  Sew  up  in  netting  and  boil  twenty  minutes 
to  the  pound  if  young,  thirty  minutes  if  old.  Unwrap,  wash  over 
with  butter  and  lemon  juice;  pour  a  few  spoonfuls  of  oyster 
sauce  upon  them,  the  rest  into  a  boat. 

Chicken  en  casserole 

Truss  the  chicken,  which  must  be  young  and  plump,  as  for 
roasting.  Into  a  frying-pan  on  top  of  the  range  put  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  a  sliced  onion  and 'carrot,  a  bay  leaf  and  a 
sprig  of  thyme.  When  the  vegetables  are  slightly  browned  put, 
with  the  chicken,  into  the  casserole,  add  a  pint  of  well-seasoned 
stock,  cover  the  casserole  and  cook  in  the  oven  for  three-quarters 
of  an  hour.  After  it  has  been  in  the  oven  for  this  length  of  time, 
drop  in  a  dozen  potato  balls,  or  strips  that  have  been  cut  from 
raw  potatoes  and  saute  in  hot  butter,  and  a  dozen  French  mush- 
rooms. Season  the  gravy  to  taste,  and  leave  the  casserole  uncov- 
ered that  the  chicken  may  brown.  Ten  minutes  before  taking  from 
the  oven,  pour  over  the  chicken  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sherry. 
When  you  take  the  chicken  from  the  oven  sprinkle  it  with  minced 
parsley.  Serve  in  the  casserole. 

Creamed  stewed  chicken 

Cut  up  a  fowl  as  for  fricassee,  and  put  over  the  fire  in  enough 
cold  water  to  cover  it  well.  Bring  gradually  to  a  gentle  boil. 
When  it  begins  to  bubble,  add  a  stalk  of  celery,  some  chopped 
parsley  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  minced  onion,  with  a  bay  leaf. 
Simmer  until  tender  before  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper. 

Make  a  white  roux  in  a  frying-pan  of  two  tablespoonfuls  of  but- 


POULTRY  411 

ter  cooked  with  the  same  quantity  of  flour.  As  soon  as  they  are 
well  mixed,  stir  into  them,  a  teaspoonful  at  a  time,  a  large  cupful 
of  strained  and  skimmed  gravy  from  the  pot.  Have  ready  half  a 
cup  of  cream,  heated,  with  a  pinch  of  soda.  Add  this  to  the  thick- 
ened gravy  also,  very  slowly,  not  to  curdle  the  cream.  Do  not 
boil  after  the  cream  goes  in.  Arrange  the  chicken  upon  a  broad 
platter ;  pour  the  creamed  gravy  over  it,  and  garnish  with  dump- 
lings cooked  in  the  gravy  left  in  the  large  pot,  after  the  reserved 
cupful  and  the  chicken  are  taken  out. 

Dumplings  for  chicken  stew 

Into  a  pint  of  flour  sift  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder, 
and  a  quarter-teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  sift  the  flour  twice.  Now 
rub  in  a  tablespoonful  of  shortening  and  wet  with  enough  milk  to 
make  a  dough  that  can  be  rolled  out.  Roll  and  cut  into  rounds, 
and  drop  these  into  the  boiling  gravy.  They  should  be  done  in  ten 
minutes. 

Mexican  hot  tamales  (No,  1) 

Boil  a  fowl  until  tender;  salt  while  boiling.  Chop  very  fine 
and  season  with  plenty  of  cayenne  pepper  and  a  little  garlic.  Have 
ready  a  thick  paste  made  of  one  cupful  of  corn-meal  mixed  with  a 
little  boiling  water.  Shape  the  meat  into  rolls  the  size  of  the  little 
finger,  and  encase  each  in  the  corn-meal  paste.  Take  the  inner 
husks  of  Indian  corn,  cut  off  the  ends,  leaving  the  husks  about 
six  inches  long,  and  wash  them  in  boiling  water. 

Wrap  each  tamale  in  a  corn  husk ;  throw  two  or  three  Mexican 
pepperg  into  the  liquor  in  which  the  chicken  was  boiled,  and  cook 
the  tamales  in  it  for  fifteen  minutes. 

Mexican  hot  tamales  (No.  2) 

Boil  a  fowl  until  tender ;  strip  the  meat  from  the  bones  and  chop 
fine.  Mince  half  a  pound  of  seeded  raisins,  and  a  half-cupful  of 
stoned  olives,  with  one  young  red  pepper  chopped  "exceeding 
fine."  Mix  all  well  together,  and  stir  to  a  paste  with  two  cupfuls 


412  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

of  Indian  meal;  wet  with  scalding  water,  season  with  salt,  onion 
juice  and  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar.  Add  more  boiling  water  until 
you  can  stir  over  the  fire  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  Then  add 
six  hard-boiled  eggs  minced  fine;  meantime  lay  smooth  the  soft 
inner  husks  of  green  corn,  and  tear  some  into  strips  for  tying; 
lay  upon  two  of  the  husks  as  much  of  the  paste  mixture  as  they 
will  contain,  wrap  them  about  it  and  tie  each  roll  with  the  stripped 
husk ;  drop  these  rolls  into  boiling  salted  water,  and  boil  them  for 
one  hour. 

If  well  seasoned,  these  are  very  savory. 

Chop  suey 
(A  Chinese  recipe) 

One-half  chicken  (or  quarter  chicken  and  as  much  fresh  pork, 
or  you  can  make  it  all  pork,  but  chicken  is  much  better) ,  one  large 
onion,  a  handful  of  mushrooms,  a  stalk  of  celery,  six  Chinese  po- 
tatoes, a  bowl  of  rice,  a  small  dessert  dish  of  Chinese  sauce  (which 
answers  for  salt). 

When  the  chicken  is  cleaned  scrape  the  meat  from  the  bones  and 
cut  into  strips  about  one  and  a  half  inches  long  and  one-half  inch 
wide.  If  pork  is  used,  cut  the  strips  the  same  length.  Slice  the 
onions  thin;  soak  the  mushrooms  ten  minutes  in  water,  then  re- 
move the  stems ;  cut  the  celery  into  pieces  one  and  a  half  inches 
long.  Chinese  potatoes  require  no  cooking;  simply  wash  and 
slice. 

First  put  chicken  (or  chicken  and  pork,  or  pork)  into  a  frying- 
pan  with  fat  and  fry  until  done,  but  not  brown  or  hard.  Then  add 
the  sliced  onions  and  cook  a  little.  Add  mushrooms.  Now  pour 
enough  sauce  over  the  ingredients  to  make  them  brown.  Then 
add  some  water  and  stew  a  few  minutes.  Add  celery,  and  after  a 
minute  add  the  potatoes.  Finally,  add  a  little  floured  water  to  it, 
making  gravy  of  the  water  which  stewed  it. 

The  Chinese  potatoes,  mushrooms  and  Chinese  sauce  can  be 
procured  at  any  Chinese  grocery.  If  the  rice  is  not  cooked  prop- 
erly it  will  detract  greatly  from  the  good  taste  of  the  chop  suey. 
Otherwise  it  is  a  very  palatable  dish. 


POULTRY  413 

To  those  who  do  not  know  how  to  serve  it  I  will  say :  Put  some 
rice  into  a  bowl,  then  add  as  much  chop  suey  as  you  want.  Mix 
and  pour  in  enough  of  the  sauce  that  was  used  in  cooking  it.  Tea 
is  usually  taken  with  this  dish. 

Canned  chicken 

Joint  the  chicken  as  for  fricassee,  cover  with  cold  water,  and 
bring  slowly  to  the  boil.  Simmer  until  tender,  but  not  broken. 
When  done  add  salt  to  the  liquor,  boil  all  up  once,  then  remove  the 
chicken  and  pack  in  wide-mouthed  jars.  Pack  in  as  tightly  as  pos- 
sible. Stand  the  jars  at  the  side  of  the  range  in  a  pan  of  boiling 
water,  boil  up  the  chicken  liquor,  fill  the  jars  to  overflowing  with 
the  scalding  liquid  and  seal  immediately. 


GEESE 

Boast  goose 

Draw,  clean,  singe  and  truss  as  you  would  prepare  a  turkey. 
Always  put  onion  and  a  suspicion  of  sage  in  the  stuffing.  Lay 
upon  the  grating  of  your  roaster ;  pour  a  cup  of  boiling  water  over 
him  to  cicatrice  the  skin  and  keep  in  the  juices,  and  roast,  covered, 
twenty  minutes  to  the  pound  if  of  reasonable  age.  If  of  unreason- 
able, cook  slowly,  basting  often  with  the  liquor  in  the  dripping- 
pan,  at*least  half  an  hour  for  each  obdurate  pound.  A  goose  is  a 
most  uncertain  quantity. 

At  the  last,  wash  with  butter,  pepper  and  salt  him,  and  dredge 
with  flour,  then  brown.  Drain  off  and  skim  the  fat  from  the 
gravy  before  you  season  the  goose.  Goose-grease  is  valuable  in 
the  domestic  pharmacopoeia,  but  neither  palatable  nor  wholesome. 

Thicken  the  gravy  with  browned  flour,  add  the  giblets  minced 
very  fine,  boil  up  and  it  is  ready. 

Serve  apple  sauce  with  him. 


4H  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Braised  goslings 

Clean  and  truss  without  stuffing.  Prepare  a  bed  for  them  by 
slicing  a  carrot,  an  onion,  a  turnip  (all  younglings,  like  the  birds), 
also  a  pared  apple,  and  cutting  a  stalk  of  celery  into  bits.  With 
these  cover  the  grating  of  your  roaster ;  lay  the  birds  upon  them, 
dredge  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  powdered  sage,  when  you 
have  poured  a  little  boiling  water  over  them  from  the  kettle. 
Cover,  and  roast  slowly  fifteen  minutes  to  the  pound.  Wash  with 
butter,  dredge  with  flour  and  brown. 

Take  the  goslings  up  and  keep  hot  while  you  make  the  gravy. 
Rub  vegetables  and  liquor  through  a  colander  into  a  bowl.  Set 
this  in  cold  water  to  throw  up  the  grease.  Skim,  thicken  with 
browned  flour,  adding  two  teaspoonfuls  of  tomato  catsup,  boil  up 
and  serve. 

Serve  apple  sauce  and  green  peas,  or  Lima  beans,  with  the  gos- 
lings which  are  most  eatable  when  half-grown. 

Salmi  of  goose 

Cut  the  remains  of  a  roast  goose  into  small  pieces,  about  an 
inch  long  and  half  as  wide.  Have  ready  a  gravy  made  by  boil- 
ing down  the  bones  and  toughest  scraps  until  you  have  a  cupful 
of  strong  stock.  Add  to  this  a  carrot,  a  young  turnip,  a  tomato, 
an  apple  and  a  stalk  of  celery,  all  cut  into  dice,  and  the  vegetables 
parboiled  for  ten  minutes.  Simmer  in  the  gravy  until  you  can  run 
them  through  your  vegetable  press.  Put  in  the  meat  and  cook 
slowly  until  tender.  Thicken  with  browned  flour. 


GAME 

THE  lower  one  descends  in  the  social  scale  the  less  apprecia- 
tion is  there  of  game  of  any  variety.  What  the  plebeian  terms 
"wild  things"  play  a  small  part  upon  his  menu — indeed,  are  prob- 
ably altogether  absent  from  it.  He  turns  with  a  shrug  from 
jugged  hare,  broiled  quail  and  roast  partridge  to  feast  upon  what 
is  known  in  his  set  as  "plain  roast  and  boiled."  It  is  the  epicure 
and  the  man  of  refined  and  cultivated  gastronomic  tastes  who  can 
appreciate  good  game. 

Just  here  it  may  be  well  to  remark  that  game  need  not  of  ne- 
cessity be  "high."  Some  persons  profess  to  prefer  it  when  it 
has  been  kept  so  long  as  to  be  a  little  offensive  to  the  olfactory 
organs.  Whether  or  not  this  be  affectation  is  not  for  us  to  judge. 
Suffice  it  to  say  that  the  following  recipes  are  for  the  preparation 
of  well-seasoned  game,  and  not  for  viands  that  bear  a  distressing 
resemblance  to  carrion. 

Saddle  of  venison 

Rub  the  meat  thoroughly  with  melted  butter,  and  wrap  it  in 
buttered  paper.  Put  into  a  covered  roaster  with  a  little  water  in 
the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Allow  at  least  twenty  minutes'  roasting 
to  every  pound  of  meat.  Half  an  hour  before  the  meat  is  done  re- 
move the  cover  and  the  paper,  and  cook,  basting  every  ten  minutes 
with  butter  and  a  little  melted  currant  jelly.  At  the  end  of  the 
half-hour  transfer  the  venison  to  a  hot  platter ;  strain  the  drippings 
left  in  the  pan,  add  to  them  a  cupful  of  boiling  water,  a  dash  of  nut- 

415 


416  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

meg,  salt,  pepper,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  the  same  quan- 
tity of  currant  jelly.  When  the  butter  and  the  jelly  are  melted, 
pour  the  sauce  into  a  gravy-boat  and  send  to  the  table  with  the 
venison. 

The  loin,  the  haunch  and  the  leg  of  venison  may  be  cooked  in 
like  manner,  and  may  be  served  with  propriety  even  at  a  "com- 
pany dinner,"  although  the  saddle,  like  Abou  Ben  Adhem's  name, 
"leads  all  the  rest." 

Venison  steak 

It  requires  about  three  minutes  more  time  to  broil  than  beef- 
steak, even  when  tender.  If  doubtful,  lay  in  olive  oil  and  lemon 
juice  for  two  hours  before  cooking.  Drain  without  wiping,  and 
broil  over  clear  hot  coals,  turning  often  to  avoid  scorching. 

Take  up,  lay  upon  a  very  hot  dish,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  paprika 
and  spread  on  both  sides  a  mixture  of  butter  stirred  up  with  cur- 
rant jelly.  Cover  and  leave  over  hot  water  five  minutes  before  it 
goes  to  table. 

Roast  partridges 

Select  plump  birds,  pick  and  clean  as  you  would  chickens,  wash- 
ing them  out  quickly  in  cold  water.  To  allow  them  to  lie  in  the 
water  injures  their  flavor.  Tie  the  legs  and  wings  closely  to  the 
sides  and  put  the  birds  in  a  covered  roaster  with  a  cup  of  water 
under  them.  Rub  with  butter,  dredge  with  flour  and  cook  for  half 
an  hour.  Now  remove  the  cover  of  the  roaster  and  baste  the  birds 
plentifully  with  melted  butter.  Replace  the  cover,  cook  for  fifteen 
minutes  longer,  uncover  and  brown. 

Woodcock 

May  be  roasted  according  to  the  foregoing  recipe,  but  as  it  is  a 
smaller  bird  than  the  partridge,  less  time  will  be  required  in  the 
cooking.  The  fashionable  way  of  cooking  woodcock  is  what  is 
known  as  "with  the  trail."  To  prepare  the  woodcock,  wash  them 
and  remove  the  crops.  Fold  the  legs  and  wings  close  to  the  body 
and  bend  the  head  forward  so  that  the  long  bill  may  be  run, 


GAME 


GAME  417 

skewer-wise,  through  the  legs  and  wings,  thus  holding  them  in 
place.  Put  two  slices  of  toast  in  the  bottom  of  a  large,  deep  fire- 
proof soup-plate,  and  place  two  birds,  side  by  side,  upon  this ;  put 
a  lump  of  butter  upon  each,  and  invert  a  large  saucer  or  small 
plate  over  them.  Over  the  opening  left  about  the  edge  of  the 
saucer  lay  a  strip  of  pastry,  that  all  air  may  be  excluded.  Set 
in  the  oven  for  seven  minutes,  then  make  an  incision  in  the 
pastry  and  allow  the  steam  to  escape.  Cover  this  small  hole  with 
a  bit  of  fresh  pastry,  return  the  birds  to  the  oven  and  cook  for  half 
an  hour.  Pour  melted  butter  over  the  woodcock,  serve  on  the 
toast  on  which  they  were  cooked,  and  garnish  with  strips  of  the 
browned  pastry. 

As  some  persons  do  not  like  the  "trail,"  it  may  be  well  to  re- 
mark that  drawn  woodcock  may  be  cooked  according  to  this 
recipe. 

Broiled  quail 

Pick  and  draw  the  birds,  and  remove  the  heads  and  feet.  Wipe 
out  the  bodies  with  a  wet  cloth,  split  down  the  back  and  lay  open 
upon  a  gridiron.  Broil  on  both  sides,  taking  care  that  the  delicate 
flesh  is  not  dried  into  tastelessness.  Lay  the  quail  upon  slices  of 
buttered  toast,  put  a  lump  of  butter  upon  each,  and  sprinkle  with 
butter  and  salt.  Set  in  the  oven  until  the  butter  melts,  then  send 
to  the  table. 

Boasted  quail 

Clean  and  wash  in  two  waters.  The  second  should  have  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking-soda  dissolved  in  it.  Rinse  with  clear  water 
and  wipe  the  inside  of  each  bird  with  a  soft  linen  cloth.  Put 
within  the  body  of  each  a  single  fine  oyster,  bind  legs  and 
wings  down  with  fine  soft  cotton.  Have  ready  thin  slices  of  fat 
salt  pork,  two  for  each  bird.  Cover  the  breasts  with  these,  binding 
with  soft  string ;  lay  upon  the  grating  of  the  roaster,  pour  a  little 
boiling  water  from  the  kettle  upon  each,  and  roast  from  twenty  to 
twenty-five  minutes.  Five  minutes  before  you  take  them  up,  re- 
move the  pork,  wash  with  butter,  dredge  with  flour  and  brown, 
27 


418  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Cut  rounds  of  stale  bread,  toast  and  butter  them;  soak  with 
gravy  from  the  pan,  and  lay  a  bird  upon  each. 

You  may  omit  the  oysters  and  fill  the  birds  instead  with  a  force- 
meat of  seasoned  crumbs.  Chopped  oysters  also  make  a  good 
stuffing,  while  some  prefer  to  roast  them  uncovered  and  without 
the  pork  covering. 


RABBITS  AND   HAKES 

In  America  "hare"  and  "rabbit"  are  interchangeable  terms.  The 
wild  rabbit  of  the  Middle  States  and  New  England  is  the  "old 
hare"  of  the  South,  and  one  with  the  "Br'er  Rabbit"  of  negro  folk- 
lore. Hence  I  shall  use  the  names  indifferently  in  the  recipes  deal- 
ing with  the  wily  coureur  du  bois  of  both  regions. 

Barbecued  rabbit 

Wash  the  cleaned  and  beheaded  rabbit  thoroughly,  and  cut  it 
open  all  along  the  under  side  of  the  body.  Make  deep  incisions 
across  the  backbone  that  the  heat  may  penetrate  to  the  center  of 
the  flesh.  Spread  the  hare  open  on  a  gridiron  and  broil,  turning 
frequently.  When  done,  transfer  to  a  hot  platter,  rub  with  but- 
ter, cover  and  keep  warm  in  the  oven  while  you  make  the  sauce 
that  is  to  accompany  the  game. 

In  a  small  saucepan  melt  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  and 
stir  into  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  a  teaspoonful  of  French 
mustard  and  a  teaspoonful  of  minced  parsley.  When  very  hot 
pour  this  sauce  over  the  rabbit.  Let  it  stand  covered  in  a  hot  dish 
five  minutes  before  serving. 

Koast  rabbit 

Leave  the  heads  on  in  cleaning  them.  Stuff  the  bodies  with 
a  forcemeat  of  fat  salt  pork,  minced  onion  and  fine  crumbs,  well 
seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt.  Sew  them  up  with  fine  thread  and 
lay  upon  thin  slices  of  pork  covering  the  grating  of  the  roaster. 


GAME  419 

Lay  other  slices  of  pork  over  them,  pour  over  all  a  cupful  of  stock 
and  roast  one  hour.  Remove  the  pork  then,  wash  with  butter, 
dredge  with  flour  and  brown. 

Drain  off  the  gravy,  lay  the  bits  of  bacon  about  the  rabbit  in 
the  dish ;  thicken  the  gravy  with  browned  floor.  Boil  up,  add 
a  tablespoonful  of  tomato  catsup  and  a  glass  of  claret,  and  take 
from  the  fire. 

Casserole  of  rabbit 

Skin,  clean  and  cut  up  as  for  fricassee.  Make  two  pieces  of 
each  back.  Fry  a  dozen  slices  of  fat  salt  pork  in  a  frying-pan,  then 
two  sliced  onions  to  a  pale  brown.  Strain  the  fat  back  into  the  pan, 
keeping  the  shreds  of  onion  and  pork  in  a  bowl  by  themselves. 
Pepper,  salt  and  dredge  with  flour  the  jointed  hare  and  fry,  a  few 
pieces  at  a  time,  in  the  same  fat.  Have  ready  parboiled  about  two 
dozen  potato  balls  and  half  as  many  baby  onions,  with  half  a  cup- 
ful of  button  mushrooms,  canned  or  fresh.  When  the  meat  is  well 
seared  on  both  sides,  lay  some  in  the  casserole,  then  six  potato 
balls  and  two  or  three  onions  with  a  few  mushrooms.  Strew  the 
chopped  salt  pork  over  them,  season  with  pepper  and  dredge 
with  browned  flour.  Proceed  in  this  order  until  the  casserole  is 
full.  Cover  with  cold  stock  or  gravy,  put  on  the  cover,  filling  in 
the  cracks  where  it  joins  the  casserole  with  flour  paste ;  and  cook 
slowly  three  hours  before  opening  it.  If  tender,  then  drain  off  the 
gravy  carefully  not  to  disturb  the  various  layers.  Put  into  a  sauce- 
pan, thicken  with  browned  flour ;  season  with  tomato  catsup  and 
salt  and  pepper  if  needed.  Boil  one  minute ;  stir  in  a  tablespoon- 
ful of  tart  jelly  and  the  same  of  lemon  juice;  return  to  the  casse- 
role ;  replace  the  cover  and  leave  in  an  open  oven  for  five  minutes 
before  serving. 

Stewed  rabbits 

Clean  and  joint  as  for  the  casserole,  cutting  each  joint  and  halv- 
ing the  backs.  Proceed  in  the  same  way,  also,  to  fry  the  pork, 
onion  and  meat  when  you  have  peppered,  salted  and  floured  this 
last. 

Then  pack  in  a  saucepan,  pour  in  enough  stock  (or  butter  and 


420  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

water)  barely  to  cover  it;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  sweet  herbs 
and  onion  juice ;  cover  closely  and  stew  slowly  for  two  hours,  or 
until  tender.  Drain  the  gravy  into  another  saucepan,  setting  that 
containing  the  meat,  covered,  in  a  larger  vessel  of  boiling  water. 
Thicken  the  gravy  with  a  big  lump  of  butter  worked  up  with 
browned  flour,  a  teaspoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce  and  one  of 
kitchen  bouquet;  pour  back  upon  the  meat  and  let  all  stand  to- 
gether in  boiling  water  for  five  minutes. 

Belgian  hares 

May  be  cooked  in  any  of  the  ways  described  in  recipes  for  pre- 
paring wild  hares  for  table  use. 

Wild  turkey 

Clean  and  truss  as  you  would  a  tame  turkey,  but  wet  the  stuffing 
with  melted  butter,  and  while  roasting  the  bird  must  be  basted 
freely  with  butter.  Six  or  seven  times  are  not  too  much.  The 
flesh,  while  sweet  and  peculiarly  "gamy,"  is  drier  than  that  of 
his  domesticated  brother. 

As  it  is  impossible  to  determine  his  age  before  shooting  him, 
there  are  even  chances  that  he  will  be  tougher  than  if  fattened 
for  the  table.  Should  this  prove  to  be  the  case,  steam  him  over 
boiling  water  for  an  hour  before  putting  him  into  the  roaster. 

Send  currant  or  grape  jelly  around  with  him  instead  of  cran- 
berry, and  add  a  little  lemon  juice  to  the  thickened  gravy.  Gar- 
nish him  with  "link"  sausages,  boiled  and  then  fried. 

Roast  grouse 

Here  again  we  have  dry  birds.  Clean,  rinse  out  well  with  soda 
and  water,  then  with  pure  water ;  wipe  inside  and  out,  and  cover 
with  thin  slices  of  corned  ham — more  fat  than  lean.  Bind  criss- 
cross with  soft  twine  or  narrow  tape,  pour  a  cup  of  boiling 
water  over  them,  and  roast  forty  minutes,  basting  with  the  gravy 
in  the  pan  three  times.  Take  off  the  bacon,  wash  the  birds  with 
butter,  dredge  with  flour  and  brown  while  you  make  the  gravy. 


GAME  421 

Thicken  this  with  browned  flour,  add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
boil  up,  pour  in  a  small  glass  of  claret  and  serve.  Garnish  with 
the  ham  and  whole  olives. 


Braised  wild  pigeons 

Clean,  wash  carefully;  put  an  olive  in  the  body  of  each  and 
bind  legs  and  wings  neatly  to  the  sides  of  the  birds. 

Fry  six  or  eight  slices  of  fat  salt  pork  in  the  frying-pan  until 
crisp,  but  not  burned.  Strain  the  fat  back,  lay  in  the  pigeons  and 
roll  over  and  over  in  the  boiling  grease  until  seared  on  all  sides. 
Take  them  up  and  keep  hot.  Add  a  spoonful  of  butter  to  the 
hot  fat,  and  when  it  hisses,  fry  a  large  onion,  sliced,  in  it.  Lay 
the  pigeons  upon  the  grating  of  the  roaster,  pour  the  boiling  fat 
and  onion  over  them ;  add  a  cupful  of  weak  stock ;  cover  closely 
and  cook  steadily  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Test  the  birds 
with  a  skewer  or  fork,  and  if  tender  wash  with  butter,  dredge  and 
brown.  Remove  to  a  hot  dish  and  make  the  gravy. 

Thicken  with  a  brown  roux,  and  season  to  taste ;  stir  in  a  dozen 
stoned  olives.  "Pimolas"  are  nice  if  you  can  get  them.  If  you 
can  get  fresh  mushrooms,  fry  or  broil  a  dozen  and  lay  about  the 
pigeons  when  they  are  dished. 

Pass  currant  jelly  with  them. 

Stewed  wild  pigeons 

Wash  well,  when  you*  have  cleaned  them,  rinsing  out  with  soda 
and  water,  and  leave  in  salt  and  water  for  an  hour.  Chop  fat 
corned  pork  fine,  season  with  onion  juice  and  paprika,  and  put 
a  teaspoonful  into  the  body  of  each  bird.  Truss  neatly,  winding 
the  body  about  with  soft  thread,  and  put  into  a  saucepan.  Cover 
with  cold  water  and  simmer  gently  until  tender.  Take  up  then 
and  lay  in  a  fire-proof  dish.  Wash  with  butter  beaten  to  a 
cream  with  lemon  juice,  onion  juice  and  finely  minced  parsley. 
Cover  and  set  in  the  oven  over  hot  water. 

Thicken  the  gravy  with  browned  flour,  beat  in  a  great  spoon- 
ful of  currant  jelly,  add  two  dozen  champignons  cut  into  halves, 


422  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

boil  one  minute,  return  the  pigeons  to  the  gravy  and  simmer  ten 
minutes. 

SdUIRRELS 

The  large  gray  squirrel  of  the  Southern  and  Middle  States  is 
reckoned  by  many  epicures  as  superior  to  rabbits  or  hares  in  rich- 
ness and  delicacy  of  flavor.  The  small  red  roisterer  who  chatters 
in  groves  and  coppice,  and  devours  the  eggs  and  young  of  song- 
birds, is  secured  from  trapper  and  gunner  by  his  worthlessness 
as  an  article  of  food.  There  is  so  little  of  him  and  that  little  is 
so  juiceless  that  powder  and  shot  would  be  wasted  upon  him. 

His  gray  cousin-german  is  so  toothsome  when  properly  cooked, 
one  wonders  that  there  are  not  preserves  of  them  near  all  our 
large  towns.  They  are  easily  raised,  hardy  and,  with -little  care, 
multiply  rapidly. 

Broiled  squirrels 

Skin,  clean  and  lay  in  a  marinade  of  salad  oil  and  lemon  juice 
for  one  hour.  Drain,  but  do  not  wipe.  Lay  upon  a  gridiron,  wide 
open,  ribs  downward.  Broil  over  clear  coals,  turning  as  they 
begin  to  drip.  When  done,  remove  to  a  hot  water  dish,  wash  with 
butter  creamed  with  lemon  juice  and  seasoned  with  pepper  and 
salt.  Cover  and  let  them  stand  five  minutes  before  serving. 

Stewed  squirrels 

Clean,  lay  in  salt  and  water  half  an  hour,  then  joint,  cutting 
the  back  into  two  pieces.  Put  into  a  saucepan,  sprinkle  with  minced 
onion,  and  cover  with  cold  water.  Cover  closely  and  stew  one 
hour  before  adding  four  tablespoonfuls  of  fat  salt  pork  minced 
fine.  Cook  for  another  hour,  or  until  tender.  Take  up  the  squir- 
rels and  keep  hot.  Stir  into  the  gravy  a  great  spoonful  of  but- 
ter rolled  in  flour.  Have  ready  in  another  vessel  half  a  cupful  of 
cream,  heated  with  a  pinch  of  soda,  into  which  has  been  beaten 
a  raw  egg.  Pour  the  gravy  over  the  squirrels,  simmer  one  minute, 
add  the  cream  and  take  at  once  from  the  fire. 


GAME  423 

Roast  squirrels 

Clean,  wash  and  lay  for  one  hour  in  salad  oil  and  lemon  juice. 
Have  ready  a  large  cupful  of  bread-crumbs  soaked  in  enough 
cream  to  moisten  them,  add  a  cupful  of  minced  mushrooms  and 
pepper,  salt  and  onion  juice  to  your  taste.  Fill  the  animals  with 
this  stuffing,  sew  up  and  truss,  rub  all  over  with  butter,  lay  in  a 
baking-dish  and  nearly  cover  with  weak  stock.  When  done, 
make  a  piquante  sauce  from  the  gravy  in  the  pan  by  adding  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon,  a  teaspoonful  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  papri- 
ka and  salt  to  taste.  Boil  up  and  pour  into  a  boat. 

Virginia  stew  of  squirrels 

Clean,  wash  and  joint  three  squirrels.  Lay  in  salt  and  water 
for  half  an  hour.  Put  then  into  a  broad  pot  in  this  order :  First, 
a  layer  of  chopped  fat  salt  pork,  then  one  of  minced  onions ;  next, 
of  parboiled  potatoes,  sliced  thin;  then  follow  successive  layers 
of  green  corn  cut  from  the  cob,  Lima  beans  and  the  squirrels. 
Proceed  in  this  order,  seasoning  each  layer  with  black,  and  more 
lightly,  with  cayenne  pepper,  until  all  the  materials  are  used  up. 
Cover  with  four  quarts  of  boiling  water,  and  put  a  tight  lid  on 
the  pot.  Stew  gently  for  three  hours  before  adding  a  quart  of 
tomatoes,  peeled  and  cut  into  bits,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  white 
sugar  and  a  tablespoonful  of  salt.  Cook  an  hour  more  ;  stir  in  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  cut  up  in  two  of  flour,  boil  three  min- 
utes and  turn  into  a  tureen. 

This  is  the  genuine  recipe,  over  a  century  old,  for  making  the 
far-famed  "Brunswick  stew"  eaten  in  perfection  at  Old  Virginia 
races,  "barbecues"  and  political  dinners. 

Chickens,  lamb  and  veal  may  be  used  in  place  of  squirrels,  also 
"old  hares." 

Barbecued  squirrels 

Broil,  as  already  directed,  lay  upon  a  hot  dish,  ribs  downward, 
and  cover  with  a  sauce  made  by  heating  together  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar  with  two  of  butter ;  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of 


424  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

sugar  and  made  mustard,  a  half  teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt  and 
pepper.  Boil  one  minute;  pour  over  the  squirrels,  and  let  them 
stand,  covered,  ten  minutes  before  serving. 


GAME    PIES 

Squirrel  pie 

Clean  and  joint  the  squirrels,  cutting  the  backs  into  three  pieces, 
each.  Put  six  slices  of  fat  salt  pork  into  a  saucepan,  fry  three 
minutes,  then  put  in  the  squirrels  and  fry  to  a  light  brown  in  this 
fat,  adding,  as  the  meat  begins  to  yellow,  a  chopped  onion,  some 
chopped  parsley  and  a  cupful  of  mushrooms ;  sprinkle  over  them 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour ;  add  a  pint  of  stock  and  simmer  slowly 
until  the  meat  is  tender,  seasoning,  at  the  last,  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Boil  one  minute ;  pour  over  the  squirrels,  and  let  them 
cool  before  putting  into  bakedish;  pour  in  a  gravy  formed  by 
stewing,  add  a  few  more  mushrooms  and  a  couple  of  hard-boiled 
eggs  cut  in  slices ;  cover  with  a  good  crust  and  bake  one  hour. 

Babbit  pie 

Clean,  wash  and  joint,  cutting  each  back  into  three  pieces. 
Leave  in  salt  and  water  for  half  an  hour ;  wipe,  and  rub  well  with 
lemon  juice,  salt  and  pepper;  where  the  meat  is  thick,  make 
several  cuts  with  a  knife  that  the  seasoning  may  penetrate.  Lay 
them  in  a  saucepan,  add  cold  water  to  cover,  then  put  in  a  bay- 
leaf,  eight  pepper  corns,  a  bit  of  mace  and  two  sliced  onions. 
Cook  slowly  till  the  meat  is  tender.  Have  ready  a  buttered  bake- 
dish and  when  the  meat  is  cool  lay  within  this,  alternately  with 
sliced  boiled  eggs,  a  few  minced  olives  and  a  dozen  tiny  young 
onions  which  have  been  parboiled.  Thicken  with  browned  flour 
the  liquor  in  which  the  rabbit  was  stewed,  and  add  more  salt  if 
needed.  Strain  it  over  the  meat,  using  enough  to  make  it  quite 
moist.  Cover  the  dish  with  a  rich  pastry  or  baking-powder  crust, 
make  a  wide  cut  in  the  center,  and  bake,  covered,  half  an  hour, 
then  brown. 


GAME  425 

Squirrel  or  rabbit  pot-pie 

Proceed  as  with  the  preceding  recipes,  until  you  are  ready  to 
pack  in  the  dish.  Add,  then,  three  potatoes  parboiled  and  sliced, 
and  tiny  dumplings,  like  marbles,  made  of  a  good  biscuit  dough ; 
cut  round  and  boil  ten  minutes  in  the  gravy  before  this  goes  into 
the  pie. 

Fie  of  small  birds 

I  wish  I  could  preface  the  recipe  with  the  information  that 
English,  sparrows  are  available  for  this  purpose.  If  not  sup- 
pressed they  are  likely  to  lessen  the  supply  of  edible  small  birds 
and  of  warblers  of  all  kinds  to  a  degree  inconceivable  by  those 
who  have  not  watched  their  achievements  in  this  line. 

Blackbirds,  ricebirds  and  snipe  may  be  used  in  families  or  as 
neighbors  in  the  manufacture  of  our  dish. 

Clean  and  stew  the  birds  for  half-an-hour  in  weak  stock.  Let 
them  get  perfectly  cold  in  this  gravy ;  take  out,  put  an  oyster  in 
the  body  of  each.  Arrange  around  the  inside  of  your  bake-dish, 
the  necks  all  against  the  rim,  the  tails  pointing  toward  the  center. 
Put  a  bit  of  butter  upon  each  breast  and  sprinkle  very  finely 
minced  salt  pork  over  all.  Thicken  the  gravy  with  browned  flour, 
season  well  and  pour  upon  the  birds.  Cover  with  a  good  crust, 
cut  a  slit  in  the  middle,  and  bake,  covered,  half-an-hour.  Then 
brown. 

Quail  pie 

Jcint  as  you  would  a  chicken  for  fricassee,  cover  the  baking- 
dish  bottom  with  thin  slices  of  streaky  bacon,  first  partially  boiled 
to  extract  the  salt ;  cover  with  a  good  white  sauce,  a  few  mush- 
rooms, or  a  little  mushroom  catsup,  and  some  chopped  parsley, 
then  with  puff-paste.  Cut  a  slit  in  the  middle ;  bake,  covered,  and 
slowly,  one  hour.  Uncover  and  brown. 

A  combination  game  pie 

Wild  pigeons  and  quails,  rice-birds,  snipe,  woodcock — in  fact, 
any  small  edible  birds — may  be  blended  in  this.  Clean  the  birds 


426  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

and,  if  tough,  stew  them  in  weak  stock.  If  they  are  large — that 
is,  too  large  for  a  whole  bird  to  be  served  for  one  portion — cut 
them  in  halves  through  the  breastbone.  If  the  birds  are  young 
and  tender  they  may  be  browned  in  hot  butter;  first  dredging 
them  with  flour,  instead  of  parboiling.  Arrange  them  in  a  deep, 
round  baking-dish  with  the  breasts  up  and  the  feet  all  pointing 
toward  the  center. 

Make  a  gravy  of  the  stock  in  which  they  were  parboiled,  season 
well  with  salt,  pepper,  onion  juice  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon; 
thicken  with  a  rotfx  of  butter  and  browned  flour.  Fill  in  the 
central  space  left  by  the  feet  of  the  game  with  mushrooms,  a  cup- 
ful of  small  drained  oysters,  two  kidneys,  cut  into  quarters,  half 
a  cupful  of  pimolas,  or  with  plain  olives,  stoned,  and  three  hard- 
boiled  eggs  minced  fine  with  one  dozen  button  onions,  parboiled. 
Pour  the  rich  gravy  over  all.  Cover  with  a  good  puff-paste ; 
make  a  slit  in  the  middle  and  bake,  covered,  half-an-hour,  then 
brown. 

Pigeon  pie 

Clean  and  joint  the  pigeons  and  wipe  each  piece  with  a  damp 
cloth.  Sprinkle  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  saute  in  shallow  drip- 
ping in  which  an  onion  has  first  been  fried.  Grease  a  pudding 
dish  and  put  a  layer  of  the  fried  pigeons  in  the  bottom;  cover 
this  with  minced  salt  pork,  sliced  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  the  minced 
pigeon  giblets.  Each  piece  of  pigeon  should  have  been  rolled 
in  browned  flour  before  going  into  the  dish.  Arrange  the  layers 
as  directed,  until  the  dish  is  full — having  the  top  layer  of  the 
minced  salt  pork.  Pour  a  cupful  of  good  stock  over  all ;  cover  the 
pie  with  puff-paste ;  cut  a  slit  in  this  to  allow  the  steam  to  escape, 
and  bake  in  a  steady  oven  for  an  hour. 

Venison  pie 

Stew  gently  until  tender  some  small  pieces  of  fresh  venison, 
and  some  slices  of  sweet  potato;  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Put  into  a  baking-dish  and  cover  with  a  paste  made  from  the  drip- 
pings from  a  roast  of  venison,  allowing  one-half  pound  of  fat  to 
one  pound  of  flour. 


DINNER  VEGETABLES 


THE   ARISTOCRATIC   ASPARAGUS 

A  WRITER  upon  dietetics  says — whether  truthfully  or  not  each 
of  us  can  judge  for  himself — "Asparagus  has  nothing  plebeian 
about  it,  as  has  the  onion,  the  potato,  the  cabbage,  turnip  or  pars- 
nip. It  is  essentially  a  gentleman's  vegetable,  and  is  an  aristo- 
crat from  tip  to  stalk." 

It  is  becoming  more  and  more  customary  to  serve  certain  vege- 
tables as  a  course  by  themselves,  instead  of  with  the  meat  and  its 
attendant  vegetables,  as  in  days  gone  by.  The  housekeeper,  who 
is  often  sorely  perplexed  as  to  what  entree  she  shall  serve  with  a 
dinner,  eagerly  welcomes  this  custom.  Asparagus,  artichokes  and 
cauliflower  may  be  sent  in  as  separate  courses. 

Boiled  asparagus 

Cut  off  the  tough  lower  part  of  your  asparagus-stalks  and  save 
them  to  stew  for  flavoring  your  next  soup.  Lay  the  aspar- 
agus in  cold  water  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  tie  carefully  into  a 
bundle  with  a  piece  of  soft  string.  Put  into  a  saucepan  large 
enough  for  them  to  lie  at  full  length.  Cover  with  salted,  boiling 
water  and  boil  until  tender.  If  young,  twenty  minutes  should 
suffice.  Drain  carefully  and  lay  neatly  on  a  hot  dish.  Pass 
drawn  butter  with  the  asparagus. 

Asparagus  on  toast 

Cut  the  woody  part  from  a  bunch  of  asparagus,  and  with  a  soft 
piece  of  twine  tie  it  into  a  loose  bundle.  Have  ready,  boiling, 
enough  salted  water  to  cover  the  asparagus.  The  saucepan  con- 

427 


428  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

taining  this  should  be  large  enough  to  allow  the  asparagus  to  lie 
at  full  length.  Boil  until  tender,  but  not  until  the  green  tips  begin 
to  break.  Spread  upon  a  platter  crustless  slices  of  buttered  toast ; 
drain  the  asparagus,  and  lay  it  in  a  neat  pile  upon  the  toast.  Of 
course  the  string  must  be  removed  from  the  bundle.  Just  before 
sending  to  the  table  pour  a  white  sauce  over  the  asparagus.  An 
excellent  plan  is  to  pour  this  sauce  only  over  the  green  ends  of 
the  stalks,  leaving  the  white  ends  uncovered,  that  the  fingers  need 
not  be  soiled  in  handling  the  vegetable. 

Baked  asparagus 

Cut  the  tender  halves  of  the  asparagus-stalks  into  inch-lengths. 
Cook  for  fifteen  minutes  in  salted  boiling  water,  then  drain. 
Grease  a  pudding  dish  and  put  in  the  bottom  a  layer  of  the 
asparagus.  Sprinkle  this  with  fine  bread-crumbs,  bits  of  butter, 
pepper  and  salt  and  small  pieces  of  hard-boiled  egg.  Now  put  in 
another  layer  of  asparagus,  more  crumbs,  etc.,  and  so  on  until 
the  dish  is  full.  The  last  layer  must  be  sprinkled  with  crumbs 
and  bits  of  butter.  Bake  for  half  an  hour,  and  serve  in  the  dish 
in  which  it  is  cooked. 


Asparagus  tips  caches 

Cut  the  tops  from  square  breakfast-rolls,  and  scoop  the  crumbs 
from  the  insides,  leaving  box-like  crusts.  Butter  the  outside  and 
inside  of  these  hollowed  rolls  and  set  them  with  the  tops  beside 
them  in  the  oven  to  dry  and  brown  lightly. 

Boil  asparagus  tips  tender  in  salted  water  and  drain.  Have 
ready  on  the  stove  a  white  sauce  made  by  cooking  together  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one  of  flour,  and  adding  to  them  a 
cup  and  a  half  of  milk.  Stir  into  this  sauce  the  asparagus  tips, 
and  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Fill  the  hollowed  rolls  with  the 
mixture,  replace  the  tops  and  set  in  the  oven  just  long  enough  to 
become  very  hot. 


DINNER    VEGETABLES  429 

Creamed  asparagus 

Reject  the  lower  halves  of  your  asparagus  stalks  and  boil  the 
upper  halves  until  they  are  very  tender.  Then  drain  and  chop. 
Cook  together  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  two  of  flour  until 
they  bubble,  pour  on  them  a  pint  of  milk  with  a  bit  of  soda  dis- 
solved in  it.  Stir  until  smooth  and  of  the  consistency  of  cream, 
add  the  minced  asparagus,  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Set 
this  mixture  aside  until  cool,  then  beat  into  it  three  well-whipped 
eggs  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream.  Pour  into  a  greased  pud- 
ding dish  and  bake  covered  for  twenty  minutes ;  uncover  and 
brown. 

Asparagus  a  la  vinaigrette  (No.  1) 

Boil  the  asparagus  according  to  the  directions  given  in  the 
preceding  recipe.  When  done,  drain  and  set  aside  until  cold,  then 
place  in  the  ice-box  until  wanted.  Lay  upon  a  chilled  platter 
and  pour  over  the  stalks  the  following  dressing : 

Put  three  tablespoonfuls  of  salad  oil  into  a  bowl  and  stir  into  it 
a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  a  saltspoonful,  each,  of  salt  and  sugar, 
and  a  dash  of  paprika. 

The  asparagus  and  the  dressing  that  accompany  it  should  be 
served  very  cold. 

Asparagus  t,  la  vinaigrette  (No.  2) 

Cook  as  directed  in  recipe  for  boiled  asparagus.  While  the 
vegetable  is  cooking  make  a  hot  French  dressing  by  putting  to- 
gether in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  half-a-dozen  tablespoonfuls  of 
salad  oil,  two  of  vinegar,  two  teaspoonf  uls  of  French  mustard,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  When  the  aspar- 
agus is  tender,  drain,  lay  it  in  a  deep  dish,  and  pour  over  it  the 
hot  dressing.  Cover  and  set  aside  to  cool,  then  stand  in  the  ice- 
chest  for  an  hour  or  two  before  serving. 

Asparagus  loaf 

Cook  three  cupfuls  of  the  asparagus  tips  until  tender,  then 
drain.  Put  into  a  saucepan  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and 


430  MARION   HARLAND'S   COOK   BOOK 

one  tablespoonful  of  flour ;  cook  together  one  minute.  Add  one 
cupful  of  milk,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one-fourth  tea- 
spoonful  of  paprika.  Add  the  milk  slowly,  stirring  all  the  time, 
and  let  it  cook  five  minutes.  Take  from  the  fire  and  add  four  well- 
beaten  eggs,  one  cupful  of  asparagus  tips  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley.  Line  a  well-buttered  baking  dish  with  the  re- 
mainder of  the  asparagus  tips ;  pour  in  the  asparagus  and  sauce, 
and  cook  with  the  dish  in  water  in  the  oven  for  fifteen  minutes. 
Serve  with  egg  sauce. 


ARTICHOKES 

The  American  artichoke,  indigenous  to  this  country,  has  re- 
ceived, nobody  living  can  say  why,  the  absurd  name  of  "Jerusalem 
artichoke."  It  is  a  tuber,  resembling  in  appearance  a  turnip  when 
cooked,  but  far  more  agreeable  in  flavor. 

The  Italian  artichoke  articiocco  was  introduced  into  this  coun- 
try some  years  ago,  and  speedily  became  a  fashionable  edible. 
The  part  eaten  is  the  succulent  bud,  cut  before  it  expands  into  a 
flower. 

Boiled  Jerusalem  artichokes 

Wash  the  artichokes  thoroughly,  pare  and  slice  or  trim  them 
into  an  oblong  shape.  Cook  in  slightly  salted  boiling  water  until 
tender,  but  not  broken,  and  pour  melted  butter  over  them. 
Sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  when  turned  into  the  dish,  add 
a  sprinkling  of  minced  parsley  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice. 

Baked  Jerusalem  artichokes 

Wash  and  pare  the  artichokes,  and  cook  tender.  Then  cut  into 
neat  slices.  Put  them  into  a  baking-dish,  sprinkle  on  a  layer  of 
grated  Parmesan  cheese  and  cover  with  a  white  or  cream  sauce. 
Sprinkle  buttered  crumbs  over  the  top  and  bake  until  the  crumbs 
are  brown. 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  431 

Boiled  Italian  artichokes 

Cut  off  the  stems,  put  the  vegetables  into  boiling  salted  water, 
and  boil  for  half-an-hour.  Cut  in  half  from  top  to  bottom  and 
serve  half-an-one  to  each  person.  Pass  with  them  a  Hollandaise 
sauce.  The  stems  are  stripped  off  by  the  person  eating  the  arti- 
choke, the  soft  end  dipped  in  the  sauce  and  eaten.  The  fuzzy 
part  should  be  scraped  off  and  the  bottom  of  the  artichoke,  which 
is  really  the  most  delicate  portion,  eaten  with  a  fork. 

Italian  artichokes  with  sauce  tartare 

Remove  the  stems  and  outer  leaves  from  the  artichokes,  and 
with  a  sharp  knife  remove  the  cores  or  centers.  Lay  these  in  cold, 
salted  water  for  half-an-hour,  drain  and  put  into  a  saucepan  with 
enough  salted,  boiling  water  to  cover  them.  Cook  until  tender, 
drain  thoroughly,  put  into  a  heated  vegetable  dish,  and  pour  over 
them  a  sauce  made  of  a  half-cupful  of  melted  butter,  into  which 
you  have  beaten  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  a  few  drops  of 
onion  juice,  a  saltspoonful  of  French  mustard,  a  pinch,  each,  of 
salt  and  paprika,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salad  oil.  Beat  this  sauce 
all  together  over  the  fire,  remove  from  the  range,  and  stir  it,  very 
slowly,  into  one  beaten  egg.  Unless  this  is  done  gradually,  the 
hot  liquid  will  curdle  the  egg.  Beat  hard  for  a  minute  before 
pouring  over  the  artichokes. 

Fried  Italian  artichokes 

Cut  off  the  leaves  and  trim  away  the  wool  from  the  stalks. 
Cook  tender,  but  not  until  broken,  in  salted  water ;  drain  and  set 
on  ice  until  perfectly  cold.  Make  a  good  batter  of  half  a  cupful 
of  flour  sifted  twice  with  a  quarter  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder 
and  a  little  salt,  wet  up  with  half  a  cupful  of  milk  into  which  has 
been  beaten  one  egg. 

Cut  each  artichoke,  perpendicularly,  into  halves,  sprinkle  with 
salt  and  pepper,  dip  into  the  batter  and  fry  in  deep  cottolene  or 
other  fat.  Drain  off  every  drop  of  fat  and  serve  hot  with  a  tart 
sauce. 


432  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

BANANAS 

Bananas  sautes 

Peel,  cut  lengthwise  into  thirds ;  roll  in  flour,  slightly  salted  and 
peppered.  Heat  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  or  clarified  drip- 
ping in  a  frying-pan;  put  in  the  bananas  and  fry  to  a  golden 
brown,  turning  several  times.  Serve  upon  buttered  toast. 

Bananas  fried  whole 

Peel  and  cut  off  the  tip  at  each  end ;  sprinkle  with  pepper  and 
salt,  roll  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  fine  crumbs,  again  in  egg,  and 
again  crumb  them.  Leave  them  upon  ice  for  an  hour  or  two,  and 
fry  in  deep,  boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat  to  a  delicate  brown. 
Serve  very  hot. 

Baked  bananas 

Strip  off  one-third  of  the  skin  of  each,  and  with  a  silver  knife 
loosen  the  skin  around  the  fruit.  Arrange  in  a  baking-pan  with 
the  stripped  side  uppermost.  On  each  banana  place  a  quarter 
teaspoonful  of  butter,  sprinkle  with  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar  and 
a  half  teaspoonful  of  water  for  each  banana,  and  bake  about 
twenty  minutes. 

Scalloped  bananas 

Peel,  slice  and  arrange  in  a  buttered  bake-dish,  alternately  with 
fine  crumbs.  Sprinkle  each  layer  with  salt,  pepper  and  butter, 
also  with  a  little  cream.  Let  the  uppermost  layer  be  crumbs,  well- 
buttered  and  wet  with  cream.  Bake,  covered,  half-an-hour,  then 
brown. 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  433 


BEANS 

Boston  baked  beans  (No.  1) 

SOAK  a  quart  of  beans  in  cold  water  all  night.  In  the  morning 
soak  them  for  two  hours  in  warm  water.  Drain,  put  into  a  pot 
with  enough  water  to  cover  them,  and  bring  them  slowly  to  a 
boil.  When  they  are  tender,  turn  then  into  a  deep  bake-dish ; 
first  pouring  off  the  surplus  water.  Cut  gashes  in  a  half-pound 
piece  of  parboiled  salt  pork,  and  place  this  in  the  center  of  the 
dish.  To  a  pint  of  the  water  in  which  the  beans  were  boiled 
add  a  gill  of  molasses  and  a  saltspoonful  of  French  mustard. 
Mix  well,  and  pour  this  over  the  beans  and  pork.  Cover  the  dish 
and  bake  in  a  steady  oven  for  six  hours. 


Boston  baked  beans  (No.  2) 

Wash  a  quart  of  beans,  let  them  stand  over-night  in  a  gallon  of 
cold  water.  In  the  morning,  pour  off  the  water  and  wash  again. 
Then  place  in  a  pot,  cover  with  plenty  of  water,  and  set  over  the 
fire. 

Rave  the  pork  all  fat  if  possible,  unless  lean  is  preferred. 
Score  the  rind  deeply.  Put  the  beans  and  pork  over  the  fire  and 
simmer  until  the  beans  begin  to  crack  open,  not  any  longer. 
Drain  all  the  water  from  them  and  rinse  again  with  cold  water. 
Put  about  half  the  beans  in  the  pot,  and  then  the  pork,  rind-side 
up.  Next,  put  in  the  remainder  of  the  beans.  Mix  a  teaspoonful, 
each,  of  mustard  and  sugar  with  pepper,  and  a  great  spoonful 
of  molasses  with  a  pint  of  boiling  water  and  pour  over  the  beans. 
Cover  the  pot,  set  in  a  slow  oven  and  bake  ten  hours,  adding  boil- 
ing water  whenever  the  beans  look  dry.  Do  not  have  the  fire  so 
hot  that  the  water  on  the  beans  bubbles,  and  have  no  more  water 
than  will  barely  come  to  the  top  of  the  beans.  Use  an  earthen 
pot. 

28 


434  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

New  Jersey  baked  beans 

Soak  and  boil  the  beans  in  the  same  way  as  before  described — • 
only  change  the  water  in  which  they  are  boiled  an  hour  before 
they  are  done — and  boil  the  pork  with  the  beans ;  a  slice  of  onion 
and  a  tiny  piece  of  bay-leaf  may  be  added  to  the  first  water. 
When  they  are  ready  for  baking  fill  a  shallow  basin  with  them ; 
place  the  pork  in  the  center  with  the  scored  rind  exposed,  with 
one  or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  molasses,  some  white  pepper,  and 
one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  small  bits  sprinkled  all  over  the 
beans;  bake,  covered,  about  two  hours.  Enough  of  the  water 
in  which  they  were  boiled  should  be  poured  in  to  make  them  soft, 
and  about  an  hour  before  they  are  done  one  cupful  of  sweet 
cream,  heated,  with  a  pinch  of  soda,  may  be  poured  in  upon  the 
beans,  loosening  them  with  a  fork  that  the  cream  may  soak  in. 

Sunnybank  baked  beans 

Soak  over  night  and  boil  tender  as  already  directed.  Parboil 
half  a  pound  of  pork  and  chop  fine.  Have  ready  a  large  cupful 
of  strained  tomato  sauce,  well  seasoned  with  onion  juice,  butter, 
salt  and  a  good  deal  of  sugar.  Put  a  layer  of  minced  pork  in  the 
bottom  of  your  dish ;  then  one  of  beans,  next  tomato  sauce.  Pro- 
ceed in  this  way  until  the  dish  is  full ;  add  a  very  little  hot  water ; 
cover  closely  and  bake  two  hours,  then  brown. 

It  will  be  found  very  good,  a  vast  improvement  upon  the  con- 
ventional pork  and  baked  beans.  The  top  layer  should  be  of  to- 
mato sauce. 

Baked  beans  with  tomato  sauce 

Soak  white  beans  over  night  in  cold  water,  and  in  the  morn- 
ing put  over  the  fire  in  boiling  water,  slightly  salted.  Cook  until 
tender.  Drain  and  put  into  a  deep  dish.  Cover  with  a  tomato 
sauce,  made  by  cooking  together  a  tablespoonful,  each,  of  butter 
and  flour  until  they  bubble,  and  then  pouring  upon  them  a  cupful 
of  strained  tomato  liquor.  Season  to  taste,  and  rather  highly,  un- 
less you  have  previously  added  salt  and  pepper  to  the  beans. 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  435 

Stir  the  sauce  in  with  these  and  bake,  closely  covered,  for  two 
hours. 

Beans  sautes 

Soak  beans  over  night  and  boil  until  tender.  Drain  very  dry 
and  sprinkle  with  salt.  Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  into  a 
frying  pan,  and  when  this  has  melted  fry  in  it  a  large  onion  sliced. 
When  the  onion  has  browned  remove  it  with  a  perforated  spoon, 
and  stir  into  the  butter  a  tablespoonful  of  minced  parsley.  Now 
add  the  beans  and  turn  them  over  and  over  in  the  hissing  butter 
until  very  hot.  Sprinkle  lightly  with  salt  (if  needed)  and  pepper. 
Turn  into  a  colander,  then  into  a  hot  dish. 

Stewed  beans 

Soak  over  night.  In  the  morning  parboil  for  one  hour,  drain, 
put  them  over  the  fire  in  enough  weak  stock  to  cover  them  and 
stew  two  hours,  slowly.  For  the  last  hour  set  in  a  pan  of  boiling 
water  to  prevent  scorching.  All  the  stock  should  be  absorbed, 
yet  the  beans  should  not  be  dry.  At  the  end  of  two  hours  stir 
in  a  sauce  made  of  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful 
of  mustard  and  the  same  of  molasses,  with  twice  as  much  onion 
juice  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  mixed  in  half  a  cupful  of  boil- 
ing water.  Leave,  covered,  upon  the  fire  for  ten  minutes  (still 
in  boiling  water)  and  turn  out. 

Lima  beans 

Shell,  lay  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour,  and  cook  half  an  hour 
in  boiling  water,  a  little  salted.  Drain,  dish,  toss  about  over  a 
lump  of  butter,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  your  liking. 

Lima  beans  with  white  sauce 

Cook  as  directed  in  last  recipe,  but  instead  of  dishing  after 
draining,  return  to  the  saucepan  with  a  good  white  sauce  into 
which  you  have  stirred  a  little  chopped  parsley.  Simmer  three 
minutes  and  serve. 


436  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Boiled  string  beans 

You  can  not  destroy  this  dish  more  effectually  than  by  "string- 
ing" the  beans  in  the  slovenly  manner  practised  by  at  least  one- 
half  of  American  cooks,  or  those  who  represent  the  American 
kitchen.  The  neatest  way  of  ridding  beans  of  backbones  is  to 
pare  each  the  whole  length  with  a  sharp  knife.  The  flavor  is 
more  delicate  when  this  is  done. 

Lay  a  handful  of  the  pods  upon  a  board  with  the  ends  even, 
and  cut  through  all  into  inch-pieces.  Wash  and  cook  in  boiling 
salted  water  until  tender.  Drain,  season  with  butter,  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  serve. 

Full-grown  beans  demand  much  more  time  for  cooking  than 
young.  Underdone  beans  have  a  rank  taste  and  are  unwholesome. 

Steamed  cream  string  beans 

By  some  they  are  called  "butter  beans,"  by  others  "German  wax 
beans."  They  are  sweeter  and  richer  than  the  ordinary  green 
string  bean.  Put  into  cold  water  for  half  an  hour  after  paring  the 
fiber  lightly  from  each  side  of  the  pods,  taking  care  not  to  touch 
the  beans  inside.  Then,  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  them  into  slant- 
ing slivers,  three  for  each  bean,  and  each  a  little  over  an  inch  long. 
Wash  and  put  the  dripping  beans  into  a  saucepan  containing  a 
great  spoonful  of  warmed  (not  hot)  butter,  pepper  and  salt  to 
taste.  Add  three  tablesponfuls  of  warm  water.  Cover  closely, 
and  bring  slowly  to  a  gentle  simmer.  Now  and  then  shake  the 
saucepan  upward  to  make  sure  the  beans  are  not  sticking  to  the 
bottom,  but  do  not  open  it,  as  everything  depends  upon  the  steam. 
Young  beans  may  be  tender  in  forty  minutes.  Large  or  stale  will 
not  be  fit  to  eat  under  one  hour.  Do  not  put  more  than  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  water  for  a  quart  of  beans,  and  dish  without 
draining. 

String  beans  of  any  kind  are  nicer  when  cooked  in  this  way 
than  any  other. 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  437 

Savory  string  beans 

String  and  cut  the  beans  diagonally  as  just  directed,  and  boil 
tender  in  salted  water.  Have  ready  a  roux  of  butter  and  flour, 
and  mix  it  with  half  a  cupful  of  gravy  of  any  kind.  Stir  until 
smooth,  seasoning  with  pepper,  salt  and  a  little  onion.  Strain 
this  sauce  over  the  beans  and  cook  for  five  minutes  longer. 


BEETS 

Boiled  beets 

As  THE  preliminary  process  to  all  dishes  composed  of  beets 
is  boiling  it  is  well  to  learn  exactly  how  this  should  be  done. 
Too  often  the  once  ruddy  vegetable  is  allowed  to  "bleed"  out  its 
juices  until  it  has  a  pallid  and  uninviting  appearance. 

Wash  the  beets,  rubbing  them  carefully  with  the  palm  of  the 
hand  to  dislodge  dirt,  but  not  so  hard  as  to  abrade  the  tender 
skin.  Drop  into  fresh  cold  water  as  you  cleanse  them.  Put  into 
a  saucepan  of  salted  boiling  water  and  cook  for  an  hour.  Drain, 
scrape,  slice  and  serve  in  a  deep  dish  with  melted  butter  poured 
over  them.  They  are  best  when  a  tablespoonful  of  hot  vinegar  is 
added  to  the  melted  butter. 


Creamed  young  beets 

Cook  with  two  inches  of  the  stem  on  to  prevent  bleeding,  and  do 
not  clip  the  tap  root.  Have  ready  a  cupful  of  cream  heated  with 
a  pinch  of  soda.  Rub  the  skins  off,  top  and  tail  the  beets,  and 
slice  them  thin  into  the  cream,  setting  the  saucepan  containing 
it  in  boiling  water.  When  all  are  in  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of 
butter  rubbed  into  one  of  flour,  pepper,  salt  and  a  teaspoonful, 
each,  of  sugar  and  onion  juice.  Simmer  two  minutes  to  cook  the 
flour,  and  dish. 


438  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 


BRUSSELS   SPROUTS 

Boiled  Brussels  sprouts 

REMOVE  the  outer  leaves  and  lay  the  sprouts  in  cold  salted  water 
for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Drain  and  boil  in  salted  water  for 
about  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  tender.  Try  with  a  fork,  and  if 
they  are  tender,  but  not  soft,  all  through,  they  are  done.  Drain 
and  lay  in  a  hot  dish  and  pour  over  them  a  half  cupful  of  melted 
butter  in  which  has  been  stirred  a  half  saltspoonful,  each,  of  salt 
and  pepper.  Serve  very  hot. 

Brussels  sprouts  au  gratin 

Boil  the  sprouts  tender  in  salted  water,  drain  and  cut  each 
sprout  in  four  pieces.  Cook  together  a  tablespoonful,  each,  of 
butter  and  flour,  and  when  they  are  blended  pour  upon  them  a 
scant  pint  of  milk.  When  you  have  a  smooth  -sauce  stir  the  quar- 
tered sprouts  into  this.  Season  to  taste,  turn  all  into  a  greased 
pudding-dish,  strew  thickly  with  crumbs  and  bits  of  butter,  and 
bake  to  a  light  brown.  Serve  in  the  dish  in  which  they  were 
baked. 


CABBAGE 

THOSE  who  know  cabbage  as  it  is  served  with  the  old-fashioned 
"boiled  dinner"  have  no  conception  of  the  many  delightful 
changes  of  which  this  so-called  plebeian  vegetable  is  susceptible. 
In  summer,  when  it  is  young  and  tender,  it  is  particularly  good, 
and  may  be  so  cooked  that  it  is  as  palatable  and  delicate  to  the 
taste  as  its  refined  cousin,  the  cauliflower.  Have  the  water  boil- 
ing when  the  vegetable  is  thrust  into  it,  head  down,  and  keep  it  at 
a  hard  boil  until  done.  Some  housekeepers  claim  that  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  vinegar  added  to  the  water  will  dissipate  the  obnox- 
ious odor. 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  439 

Savory  boiled  cabbage 

Cut  a  firm  cabbage  into  four  parts  and  reject  the  outer  leaves. 
Wash  carefully  in  two  waters,  taking  care  to  dislodge  any  insects 
that  may  be  concealed  between  the  leaves.  Have  a  large  pot  of 
boiling  water  on  the  range ;  dissolve  in  a  tablespoonful  of  salt 
and  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  baking  soda.  Plunge  the  cab- 
bage into  this,  and  cook,  uncovered,  for  fifteen  minutes,  drain,  and 
fill  the  pot  with  more  boiling  water,  adding  salt  as  you  do  so. 
Cook  the  cabbage  until  tender,  always  uncovered,  turn  into  a 
colander,  press  out  all  the  water  and  set  aside  to  get  very  cold. 
Chop  fine  and  season  with  salt,  white  pepper,  and  a  dash  of  tomato 
catsup.  Heat  in  a  saucepan  a  large  cupful  of  well-seasoned  soup 
stock,  turn  the  cabbage  into  this  and  toss  and  turn  until  very  hot. 
Now  add  a  large  spoonful  of  melted  butter,  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
lemon  juice,  and  serve. 

Baked  cabbage 

Boil  cabbage  tender  in  two  waters,  drain  and  set  aside  until 
cold,  then  chop  fine.  Mix  together  two  beaten  eggs,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream,  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  a  dash  of  paprika.  Stir  this  into  the  chopped 
cabbage  and  put  it  into  a  buttered  pudding-dish.  Sprinkle  bread- 
crumbs over  the  top  and  bake  until  brown. 

Fricasseed  cabbage 

Boil  and  chop,  as  in  the  last  recipe,  and  keep  hot  while  you 
cook  together  in  a  saucepan  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one 
(heaping)  of  flour ;  when  they  bubble  pour  upon  them  a  cupful  of 
hot  milk.  Stir  to  a  smooth  sauce ;  turn  into  this  the  chopped  cab- 
bage, cook  for  a  minute,  season  and  serve. 

Stuffed  cabbage 

Choose  a  fresh,  firm  cabbage.  Lay  in  cold  water  for  half  an 
hour,  and  boil  in  salted  water  for  ten  minutes.  Remove,  drain, 
and  allow  it  to  get  very  cold.  Meanwhile  make  a  forcemeat  of 


440  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

a  cupful  of  boiled  rice  and  the  same  quantity  of  chopped  cold 
chicken  with  half  a  cupful  of  minced  ham.  Work  to  a  paste  and 
season.  Stand  the  cabbage  on  the  stem-end  and  carefully  open 
the  leaves,  beginning  at  the  center.  Fill  the  spaces  between  the 
layers  of  leaves  with  the  forcemeat ;  close  the  cabbage  upon  itself, 
tie  it  up  firmly  in  a  piece  of  coarse  netting,  put  it  gently  into  a 
pot  of  boiling  salted  water,  and  cook  almost  two  hours.  Take  from 
the  water,  remove  the  netting  very  carefully,  put  the  cabbage  on  a 
platter  and  pour  a  rich  white  sauce  over  it.  If  properly  pre- 
pared, this  is  a  delicious  dish. 

Baked  cabbage  with  tomato  sauce 

Boil  a  cabbage  in  two  waters,  drain,  cut  it  fine,  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Grease  a  pudding-dish  and  put  a  layer  of  the 
cabbage  in  the  bottom  of  it ;  cover  this  layer  with  tomato  sauce 
and  sprinkle  with  a  few  fine  crumbs.  Proceed  in  this  way  until 
the  dish  is  full,  having  the  last  layer  of  crumbs.  Bake  for  half 
an  hour. 

Shredded  cabbage  and  cheese 

Cut  a  cabbage  into  shreds  and  boil  in  salted  water  until  tender. 
Drain  and  stand  in  a  heated  colander  at  the  side  of  the  range. 
Cook  together  two  teaspoon fuls  of  butter  and  two  of  flour,  and 
pour  upon  them  a  pint  of  hot  milk.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  stir  in  three  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese.  Cook, 
stirring  constantly,  for  just  a  minute.  Turn  the  cabbage  into  a 
deep  vegetable  dish  and  pour  the  cheese  sauce  over  it. 

Cold  slaw 

Wash  a  cabbage  and  lay  it  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour. 
With  a  sharp  knife  cut  it  into  strips,  or  shreds.  As  you  cut  these 
drop  them  into  iced  water.  When  ready  to  serve,  drain  in  a  col- 
ander, shaking  hard  to  dislodge  the  moisture,  and  pour  over  all  a 
dressing  made  by  rubbing  the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs  to 
a  paste  with  one  beaten  egg,  a  half  cupful  of  salad  oil,  the  juice  of 
a  lemon,  mustard,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  441 

Cabbage  cream  salad 

Prepare  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  only  cutting  the  shreds  into 
inch-lengths  before  dropping  them  in  iced  water.  Beat  a  pint  of 
cream  very  stiff.  Drain  the  cabbage,  sprinkle  lightly  with  salt, 
and  stir  it  into  the  whipped  cream,  turning  and  tossing  until  it  is 
thoroughly  coated  with  the  white  foam.  Serve  at  once  with 
crackers  and  cheese.  The  cabbage  should  be  tender  and  crisp  for 
this  dish. 

An  Italian  dish  of  cabbage 

Boil  a  cabbage  in  two  waters ;  drain ;  when  cold,  chop  coarsely, 
and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Butter  a  pudding-dish,  put  a 
layer  of  the  cabbage  in  this ;  sprinkle  with  buttered  crumbs  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Put  in  more  cabbage, 
more  crumbs  and  cheese,  and,  when  the  dish  is  nearly  full,  pour 
a  cup  of  seasoned  beef  stock  over  all.  Bake  for  half  an  hour. 

Scalloped  cabbage 

Boil  a  head  of  cabbage  in  two  waters ;  drain ;  let  it  cool,  and 
chop  fine.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  baking-dish  with  bread-crumbs  ; 
scatter  over  these  tiny  morsels  of  butter,  seasoned  with  pepper, 
salt  and  a  few  drops  of  onion  juice ;  spread  with  a  layer,  an  inch 
thick,  of  the  minced  cabbage.  Season  this  layer  with  salt,  butter- 
bits,  and  a  sharp  dash  of  lemon  juice.  Repeat  the  crumbs,  then  a 
second  stratum  of  cabbage,  a  cupful  of  boiling  milk,  and  cover  all 
thickly  with  bread-dust,  well  seasoned.  Sift  grated  cheese  upon 
the  top,  and  bake,  covered,  until  bubbling  hot.  Uncover  and 
brown.  You  can  use  weak  stock  in  place  of  milk  if  you  have  it. 
Boil  a  pinch  of  soda  in  the  milk.  An  excellent  family  dish. 

CARROTS 

Stewed  carrots 

WASH,  scrape  off  the  skin,  cut  into  dice  and  leave  in  cold  water 
for  half  an  hour.  Put,  then,  into  the  inner  compartment  of  a 
double  boiler  with  no  water  upon  them  except  that  which  clings 


442  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    LOOK 

to  them  after  washing.  Cover  closely,  and  cook  tender.  An 
hour  should  be  long  enough  for  this.  Turn  into  a  deep  dish, 
pepper  and  salt,  and  cover  with  a  good  white  sauce. 

Mashed  carrots 

Scrape  and  slice  carrots,  and  boil  tender  in  two  waters.  Drain, 
rub  through  a  colander,  and  mash  with  a  potato-beetle.  Beat 
light  with  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  add  salt  and  pepper, 
and  serve  very  hot. 

Carrots  sautes 

Boil  young  carrots,  not  longer  than  your  forefinger,  for  eight 
minutes  in  salted  water.  Rub  and  scrape  off  the  skins;  cover 
with  boiling  water  and  cook  tender.  Drain,  lay  for  a  minute  in 
cold  water  until  you  can  handle  them,  and  cut  each  carrot  in  two, 
each  half  into  strips.  Heat  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying- 
pan  with  a  half  teaspoonful  of  white  sugar,  a  little  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  when  it  boils  lay  in  the  strips  of  carrot.  Cook  three 
minutes  after  the  bubble  recommences;  sprinkle  with  chopped 
parsley,  toss  about  for  one  minute,  drain  and  serve  hot. 

Carrot  croquettes 

Wash  and  scrape  and  cook  until  very  tender.  Mash  smooth 
and  beat  to  a  paste  with  the  yolk  of  a  raw  egg,  a  good  spoonful 
of  softened  butter,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Let  this  paste  get 
cold  and  stiff  before  .  making  into  croquettes  or  balls.  Roll  in 
beaten  egg,  then  in  fine  crumbs ;  set  on  ice  for  an  hour  and  fry 
in  deep,  boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat.  Drain  and  serve  hot. 


CAULIFLOWER 

Cauliflower  boiled  whole 

CHOOSE  a  fine,  white  head  for  this  purpose.  Put  it,  flower 
downward,  into  ice-cold  salted  water  for  half  an  hour.  Tie, 
then,  in  coarse  cheese-cloth  or  netting,  and  plunge,  head  fore- 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  443 

most,  into  a  pot  of  boiling  salted  water.     Cook  half  an  hour, 
drain,  take  off  the  cloth  and  dish.     Pour  a  rich  white  sauce  over  it. 

Cauliflower  au  gratin 

Cut  a  large  cauliflower  into  eight  pieces  and  boil  tender  in  salted 
water.  Drain,  lay  in  a  deep  pudding-dish,  stems  down,  and  pour 
over  it  a  plain  white  sauce  into  which  two  hard-boiled  eggs  have 
been  chopped.  Sprinkle  with  bread-crumbs  and  bake  to  a  light 
brown. 

Cauliflower  with  tomato  sauce 

Boil  a  whole  cauliflower  for  ten  minutes  in  fresh  water ;  drain 
and  boil  until  tender  in  salted  water.  Put  into  a  vegetable  dish, 
flower  side  up,  rub  thoroughly  with  butter,  then  sprinkle  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Last  of  all,  pour  over  the  cauliflower  a  pint  of 
tomato  sauce. 

CELERY 

Stewed  celery  (No.  1) 

WASH  the  celery,  cut  into  half-inch  bits,  and  stew  tender  in 
slightly-salted  boiling  water.  Drain  this  off  and  add  a  cupful  of 
milk.  Cook  for  three  minutes,  stir  in  a  teaspoonful  of  butter 
rubbed  into  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  boil  up  once,  season  to  taste, 
and  serve. 

Stewed  celery  (No.  2) 

A  bunch  of  indifferent  celery  may  be  utilized  for  this  dish. 
I  have  rescued  stalks  frosted  accidentally  through  the  cook's 
carelessness,  laid  them  in  ice-cold  water  for  two  hours,  prepared 
them  as  I  shall  direct,  and  presented  as  palatable  food  that  whose 
end  would  otherwise  have  been  the  garbage  pail. 

After  stewing  tender  and  draining,  transfer  to  another  sauce- 
pan in  which  you  have  heated  a  cupful  of  milk  (with  a  pinch  of 
soda  in  it),  thicken  it  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  rubbed  in  a 
teaspoonful  of  flour,  and  stir  to  a  boil.  Mix  the  celery  well 


444  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

with  this,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  heat  all  together  for  one 
minute,  and  dish. 

Brown  stew  of  celery 

Wash  and  cut  into  small  bits  a  bunch  of  celery.  Put  it  into  a 
saucepan  and  pour  over  it  a  pint  of  cleared  beef  stock.  Stew  until 
tender.  Drain  the  celery  and  set  aside  while  you  return  to  the 
saucepan  the  stock  in  which  it  was  cooked.  Thicken  this  with  a 
paste  made  by  rubbing  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  browned  flour 
into  one  teaspoonful  of  butter.  When  you  have  a  smooth  brown 
sauce,  stir  in  the  celery,  and  when  this  is  very  hot,,  season  and 
serve. 

Savory  celery 

Scrape,  cut  into  inch-lengths,  lay  in  cold  water  for  an  hour ; 
cook  tender  in  salted  hot  water.  Drain,  and  return  the  celery  to 
the  saucepan.  Have  ready  heated  a  cupful  of  weak  stock,  or 
gravy,  strained  through  a  cloth,  seasoned  with  paprika,  salt  and 
onion  juice,  then  thickened  with  a  tablespoonful  of  browned  flour 
rolled  in  the  same  quantity  of  butter.  Pour  this  over  the  celery, 
heat  all  together  for  one  minute,  and  dish. 

The  outer  green  stalks  of  celery  may  be  used  thus,  and  more 
satisfactorily  than  a  tyro  might  think  possible. 

Fried  celery 

Scrape  and  boil  as  directed  in  foregoing  recipes ;  drain,  and 
spread  upon  a  cloth  in  a  very  cold  place.  They  must  be  dry  and 
firm  before  you  dip  each  piece  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  seasoned 
bread  or  cracker-dust.  Set  again  in  the  cold  for  an  hour,  and  fry 
in  deep  cottolene  or  other  fat  to  a  golden  brown.  Drain  in  a  hot 
colander  and  serve. 

Stewed  celery  roots 

Wash  and  scrape  the  roots  of  celery  and  stew  in  salted  water 
until  very  tender.  Drain  and  cut  into  small  dice.  Have  ready 
in  a  saucepan  a  pint  of  hot  milk,  thicken  this  with  a  teaspoonful 
of  flour  rubbed  into  one  of  butter,  turn  a  cupful  (heaping)  of 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  445 

the  celery  dice  into  this  sauce,  stir  until  very  hot,  season  to  taste 
and  serve. 

Besides  being-  a  palatable  dish  when  thus  cooked,  celery  root 
is  an  admirable  nervine,  and  therefore  indicated  as  beneficial  diet 
for  brain-workers  and  nervous  invalids. 


GREEN    COEN 

Boiled  corn 

STRIP  husk  and«silk  from  the  ear  and  put  over  the  fire  in  plenty 
of  boiling  water,  slightly  salted.  Boil  hard  for  twenty  minutes 
if  the  corn  be  young  and  fresh. 

Send  to  table  wrapped  in  a  napkin. 

Stewed  corn 

Cut  from  the  cob  with  a  sharp  knife ;  put  over  the  fire  in  just 
enough  boiling  salted  water  to  cover  it.  Stew  gently  ten  min- 
utes ;  turn  off  the  water  and  add  a  cupful  of  hot  milk  (with  a 
pinch  of  soda  in  it).  Cook  ten  minutes  more,  stir  in  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  butter  rubbed  up  with  a  teaspoonful  of  flour;  boil  one 
minute  and  turn  into  a  hot,  deep  dish. 

Green  corn  pudding  (No.  1) 

Grate  the  grains  from  twelve  ears  of  corn ;  beat  into  the  corn 
the  whipped  yolks  of  four  eggs  until  thoroughly  incorporated; 
stir  in  now  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  powdered  sugar ;  salt  to  taste,  and  add  the  whites  of 
the  eggs  whipped  to  a  froth.  Lastly  stir  in  a  tiny  pinch  of  soda ; 
turn  into  a  buttered  pudding-dish  and  bake,  covered,  half  an  hour. 
Uncover,  brown  quickly,  and  send  to  table  at  once. 

If  this  delicious  "souffle"  be  made  of  canned  corn,  chop  it  very 
fine. 


446  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Green  corn  pudding  (fro.  2) 

Mix  together  two  cupfuls  of  grated  corn,  two  beaten  eggs,  a  half 
pint  of  milk,  a  pinch  of  soda,  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar.  Grease  a  shallow  baking-dish,  turn 
the  mixture  into  this,  sprinkle  with  buttered  crumbs,  cover  and 
bake  for  half  an  hour,  then  uncover  and  brown. 

Green  corn  pudding  (No.  3) 

Grate  the  kernels  from  twelve  ears  of  corn  and  stir  into  them 
the  beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs  and  a  tablespoonful,  each,  of  melted 
butter  and  granulated  sugar.  Now  beat  in  a  quart  of  milk,  a 
half  teaspoonful  of  salt  and,  last  of  all,  the  stiffened  whites  of  the 
six  eggs.  Turn  into  a  greased  pudding-dish  and  bake,  covered, 
for  half  an  hour,  then  uncover  and  brown. 

This,  when  properly  made  and  baked  in  a  quick  oven,  is  a 
veritable  souffle  and  incomparable. 

Corn  fritters 

Cut  from  the  ears  a  pint  of  sweet  corn.  Beat  together  a  cupful 
of  milk,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  one  egg,  whipped 
light,  salt  to  taste  and  enough  flour  to  make  a  thin  batter.  Into 
this  stir  the  grated  corn.  Beat  hard  and  cook  as  you  would  grid- 
dle-cakes upon  a  soapstone  griddle.  They  are  a  palatable  accom- 
paniment to  roast  chicken. 

Green  corn  balls 

Grate  enough  green  corn  from  the  cob  to  make  two  cupfuls; 
into  this  stir  a  beaten  egg,  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  sugar  and  melted 
butter,  with  salt  to  taste.  Add  enough  flour  to  enable  you  to  form 
the  mixture  into  balls,  roll  these  in  flour  and  fry  in  deep  fat. 

Succotash 

Cut  the  corn  from  eight  ears  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  a 
pint  of  young  Lima  beans  and  enough  salted  boiling  water  to 
cover  them  both.  Boil  until  the  vegetables  are  tender;  drain  and 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  447 

turn  into  a  double  boiler  with  a  cupful  of  boiling  milk.  Cook 
for  ten  minutes,  then  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  simmer 
for  five  minutes  longer.  Season  to  taste  and  serve.  Large 
"Limas"  should  be  cooked  ten  minutes  before  the  corn  is  added. 

Corn  and  tomatoes 

Grate  the  grains  from  six  ears  of  corn ;  pare  and  cut  into  small 
pieces  four  ripe  tomatoes.  Put  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan ;  stew 
half  an  hour ;  season  with  a  great  spoonful  of  butter,  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  sugar  and  one  of  onion  juice;  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Cook  five  minutes  more  and  dish. 

Scallop  of  corn  and  tomatoes 

Pare  and  cut  small  a  dozen  ripe  tomatoes  and  turn  them,  or 
the  contents  of  a  can  of  tomatoes,  into  a  chopping  bowl  and  chop 
the  large  pieces  of  the  vegetable  into  small  bits;  then  set  in  a 
saucepan  over  the  fire  and  bring  to  the  boil.  Drain  the  liquor 
from  a  can  of  corn,  or  grate  the  grains  from  a  dozen  ears,  and 
put  the  corn  into  a  bowl  of  fresh  water.  After  ten  minutes  drain 
the  water  off,  and  transfer  the  corn  to  a  saucepan  with  enough 
boiling  water  to  cover  it.  Let  it  simmer  for  five  minutes,  pour  off 
the  water  and  add  the  boiling  tomatoes  to  the  corn.  Let  both 
cook  together  for  five  minutes,  during  which  time  stir  into  them 
a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  butter,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  granulated 
sugar,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Pour  the  mixture  into  a 
greased  bake-dish,  sprinkle  bread-crumbs  and  bits  of  butter  over 
the  top  and  bake  for  half  an  hour. 

Green  corn  croquettes 

Grate  the  corn  from  a  dozen  ears,  or  drain  the  liquor  from  a 
can  of  corn,  and  chop  the  kernels  fine.  Cook  together  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  and  two  of  flour,  and,  when  these  are  blended, 
add  slowly  a  pint  of  milk  into  which  has  been  stirred  a  pinch  of 
soda.  Cook  this  mixture,  stirring  all  the  time,  until  you  have 
a  thick  white  sauce;  add  to  it  the  chopped  corn  and  half  a  tea- 


448  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

spoonful  of  powdered  sugar,  with  pepper^and  salt  to  taste.  Re- 
move from  the  fire  and  set  aside  to  cool.  When  cold,  form  with 
lightly-floured  hands  into  croquettes,  and  dip  each  croquette  in 
beaten  egg  and  cracker-dust.  Set  all  aside  in  a  platter  in  the  ice- 
chest  for  several  hours,  then  fry  in  deep,  boiling  fat. 

Corn  omelet 

Grate  the  corn  from  four  ears  of  boiled  corn.  Beat  four  eggs 
well,  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  and  cook  in  a  hot  pan. 
When  ready  to  fold,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  the  corn 
and  turn  out  on  a  hot  dish.  Heat  the  corn  slightly  over  hot  water 
before  putting  into  the  omelet. 

Creole  chowder 

Heat  a  generous  lump  of  butter  and  in  it  brown  four  sliced 
onions.  Add  four  peeled  tomatoes,  four  chopped  green  bell-pep- 
pers, and  the  corn  cut  from  four  cobs.  Add  as  much  water  as 
may  be  needed  in  cooking,  season  with  salt  and  sugar  and  a  little 
black  pepper.  A  full  hour's  cooking  will  be  necessary,  and  the 
chowder  must  be  served  piping  hot. 


CUCUMBERS 

MANY  persons  look  upon  the  cucumber  with  fear  as  a  source 
of  indigestion  and  gastric  discomfort.  One  able  dietitian  has  left 
on  record  his  opinion  that  a  square  inch  of  verdant  cucumber  is 
about  as  fit  to  be  put  into  the  human  stomach  as  would  be  a  like 
quantity  of  Paris  green. 

Our  cucumber,  like  many  another  abused  article,  is  maligned 
because  its  enemies  have  never  made  the  attempt  to  do  it  justice. 
If  a  few  simple  rules  are  followed  it  will  prove  less  indigestible 
and  more  palatable  than  foes  and  friends  imagine.  When  cooked, 
it  loses  many  of  its  disturbing  qualities.  But,  as  some  people 
enjoy  the  crisp  freshness  of  its  raw  state,  it  is  well  to  learn  just 
how  to  prepare  it  properly. 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  449 

Raw  cucumbers 

See  to  it  that  the  cucumber  is  fresh  and  lay  it  on  the  ice  until 
wanted.  Do  not  be  content  with  leaving  it  on  the  shelf  of  the 
refrigerator.  It  must  be  in  actual  contact  with  the  ice.  Just  be- 
fore sending  to  the  table,  peel  quickly  and  slice  thin,  scattering 
crushed  ice  among  the  slices.  At  the  table  make  a  French  dress- 
ing of  one  part  vinegar,  three  parts  oil,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste, 
and  pour  over  the  cucumbers  as  you  dish  them.  To  allow  the 
vegetable  to  lie  for  even  fifteen  minutes  in  the  dressing  is  to 
toughen  the  fiber  and  make  it  as  indigestible  as  gutta  percha. 

Stewed  cucumbers 

Peel  eight  medium-sized  cucumbers  and  cut  them  into  slices  an 
inch  thick.  Lay  in  iced  water  for  half  an  hour.  Have  a  pint  of 
unsalted,  hot  beef  stock  in  a  saucepan,  drain  the  cucumbers  and 
lay  them  in  this.  Stew  until  tender,  then  remove  with  a  skimmer 
and  lay  in  a  vegetable-dish.  Cook  together  a  tablespoonful,  each, 
of  butter  and  browned  flour,  and  pour  upon  them  the  stock  in 
which  the  cucumbers  were  cooked.  Stir  until  you  have  a  smooth 
brown  sauce ;  add  a  saltspoonf  ul  of  salt,  the  same  amount  of  pep- 
per, a  teaspoonful  of  kitchen  bouquet  and  a  half  teaspoonful  of 
onion  juice.  Stir  all  together  and  pour  over  the  stewed  cucum- 
bers. 

Stuffed  cucumbers 

Cut  good-sized  young  cucumbers  into  halves,  lengthwise,  and 
remove  the  seeds.  Fill  the  hollows  thus  left  with  a  forcemeat 
made  of  equal  parts  of  chopped  roast  beef  and  minced  boiled 
ham,  with  half  as  much  fine  bread-crumbs.  Moisten  this  stuf- 
fing with  melted  butter  and  season  to  taste.  Place  the  halves  of 
each  cucumber  carefully  together  and  tie  with  soft  twine.  Place 
in  a  roasting-pan,  pour  about  them  a  cupful  of  skimmed  beef 
stock,  and  cook  until  tender.  Remove  the  strings,  transfer  the 
cucumbers  to  a  hot  platter,  thicken  the  gravy  left  in  the  pan  and 
pour  it  about  them.  This  is  a  Syrian  recipe. 
29 


450  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Baked  cucumbers 

Peel  medium-sized  cucumbers,  arrange  them  in  a  bake-dish  and 
pour  about  them  a  couple  of  tablespoonfuls  of  water  in  which 
has  been  melted  a  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Dust  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  bake,  covered,  for  half  an  hour.  If  you  wish,  you 
can  scallop  them  by  cutting  them  in  slices,  sprinkling  with  crumbs 
and  basting  with  bits  of  butter.  Bake,  covered,  until  tender; 
uncover  and  brown. 

Fried  cucumbers 

Peel  and  leave  in  ice  water  for  half  an  hour.  Slice  lengthwise, 
making  three  slices  of  each  cucumber  of  fair  size,  lay  in  fresh 
iced  water  for  ten  minutes  more.  Wipe  dry,  sprinkle  with  pep- 
per and  salt,  dredge  with  flour  and  fry  to  a  light  brown  in  deep, 
boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat.  Drain,  and  serve  dry  and  hot. 


CHESTNUTS 

THE  large  Spanish  chestnuts  sold  by  grocers  in  the  city,  and  in 
the  markets,  make  excellent  puddings  with  or  without  sugar,  and, 
as  vegetables,  go  well  with  poultry  and  beef. 

Chestnut  pudding 

Boil  and  skin  enough  chestnuts  to  make  a  cupful  when  rubbed 
through  a  colander  or  vegetable  press.  Beat  four  eggs  light,  stir 
the  chestnut  into  the  yolks ;  add  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter 
and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  fine  cracker  dust,  two  cupfuls  of  milk, 
a  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste;  lastly,  the 
frothed  whites.  Bake,  covered,  in  a  buttered  pudding-dish  for 
half  an  hour ;  uncover,  brown  and  serve  before  it  falls.  Eat  with 
meat. 

Chestnut  croquettes 

Shell  and  boil  five  cupfuls  of  large  chestnuts;  skin,  and  rub 
through  a  colander.  Work  into  them  a  tablespoonful  of  butter, 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  451 

a  little  salt,  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice  and  a  dash  of  paprika. 
Turn  into  a  double  boiler,  and  make  very  hot,  then  set  aside  to 
cool.  When  cold  form  into  small  croquettes,  roll  in  egg,  then  in 
cracker-crumbs  and  set  in  the  ice  for  an  hour  before  frying  in  deep, 
boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat.  Peanut  croquettes  may  be  made 
in  the  same  way. 

DANDELIONS 

MAKE  a  wholesome  and,  to  some  tastes,  palatable  "greens"  in 
the  spring  of  the  year.  They  must  be  gathered  while  very  young 
and  tender,  or  they  are  bitter.  The  best  time  to  cut  them  is  just 
before  they  flower.  Throw  at  once  into  cold  water,  as  they  wilt 
soon  after  they  are  picked. 

Stewed  dandelions  (No.  1) 

Cut  the  stems  from  a  half  peck  of  dandelion  leaves,  and  break 
each  leaf  into  small  bits,  dropping  these  into  cold  water  as  you  do 
so.  Wash  thoroughly,  drain,  and  lay  in  cold  water  for  fifteen 
minutes.  Drain  again,  and  put  over  the  fire  in  a  porcelain-lined 
saucepan,  with  enough  salted  water  to  cover  them.  Simmer  for 
fifteen  minutes  while  you  make  the  following  sauce : 

Cook  together  a  tablespoonful,  each,  of  butter  and  flour,  and 
pour  upon  them  a  pint  of  milk,  in  which  a  pinch  of  soda  has  been 
dissolved.  Stir  to  a  smooth  white  sauce.  Drain  the  water  from 
the  dandelion  leaves,  and  stir  these  into  the  sauce.  Season  to 
taste,  and  beat  in,  very  slowly,  a  whipped  egg.  Remove  at  once 
from  the  fire  and  turn  into  a  deep  vegetable  dish. 

Stewed  dandelions  (No.  2) 

Pick  the  leaves  from  the  stems,  and  drop  into  iced  water.  Take 
them  up  by  the  handful,  dripping  wet,  and  put,  with  no  other 
water,  into  the  inner  vessel  of  a  farina  boiler.  Fill  the  outer  ket- 
tle with  boiling  water ;  cover  the  inner  closely,  and  cook  fast  for 
half  an  hour.  Rub  the  leaves  through  a  vegetable  press  or  a  col- 


452  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

ander  into  a  saucepan;  beat  in  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon 
juice,  and,  at  the  last,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  hot  cream  to  which 
has  been  added  a  pinch  of  soda.  Stir  until  smoking  hot  over  the 
fire,  turn  out  into  a  heated  dish,  garnish  with  sippets  of  fried 
bread,  and  serve. 

Dandelion  greens  cooked  thus  are  almost  as  good  as  spinach 
a  la  creme. 


EGGPLANT— A  MUCH  ABUSED  VEGETABLE 

TENS  of  thousands  of  average  American  housewives  know  but 
one  way  of  cooking  it,  and  not  one  in  a  hundred  performs  that 
one  properly. 

Fried  eggplant  is  one  of  the  many  dishes  which  remind  the 
eater  of  the  small  girl  of  nursery-rhyme  fame,  who — 

"  When  she  was  good  was  very,  very  good 
But  when  she  was  bad  she  was  horrid." 

When  only  half  fried,  or  soaked  with  grease,  this  vegetable  is 
an  abomination  to  the  educated  palate  and  the  self-respecting 
stomach.  When  tender  and  thoroughly  cooked,  it  is  one  of  the 
most  delicious  of  the  summer  and  fall  garden  products. 

Fried  eggplant 

Peel  an  eggplant  and  cut  into  slices  half  an  inch  thick.  Lay  in 
cold  salt  water  for  an  hour ;  wipe  each  slice  dry  and  dip,  first  in 
beaten  egg,  and  then  in  cracker  dust.  Set  in  a  cold  place  for  an 
hour  and  fry  in  deep  boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat.  Drain  in  a 
heated  colander  before  dishing. 

Stuffed  eggplant  on  the  half -shell 

Wash  and  wipe  a  large  eggplant  and  parboil  it  in  boiling  salted 
water  for  ten  minuies.  Let  it  get  perfectly  cold,  cut  in  half 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  453 

lengthwise,  and  scrape  out  the  center,  leaving  the  walls  of  the 
vegetable  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick.  Chop  the  pulp  fine 
and  add  to  it  a  small  cupful  of  minced  chicken,  half  a  cupful  of 
minced  ham,. a  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  bread-crumbs,  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  melted  butter,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Mix  well,  add 
enough  soup  stock  to  make  a  stiff  paste,  and  fill  the  hollow  sides 
with  this.  When  full  and  rounded,  sprinkle  the  forcemeat  with 
bread-crumbs,  and  lay  the  halves,  side  by  side,  in  a  bakepan,  pour- 
ing three  cupfuls  of  soup  stock  around  them.  Bake  nearly  an 
hour,  basting  every  ten  minutes.  Remove  the  eggplant  to  a  hot 
platter,  thicken  the  gravy  left  in  the  pan  with  browned  flour,  boil 
up  once  on  top  of  the  range,  stirring  constantly,  and  pour  this 
browned  sauce  about  the  base  of  the  halved  eggplant. 

Scalloped  eggplant 

Pare  off  the  skin,  cut  into  dice  and  lay  in  cold  salt  water  for  an 
hour.  Then  parboil  for  twenty  minutes.  Drain  well  and  pack 
in  a  buttered  bake-dish,  alternately,  with  fine  crumbs.  Dot  each 
layer  with  butter,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  strew  with 
finely-minced  sweet  green  peppers.  Fill  the  dish  in  this  order, 
cover  with  a  layer  of  crumbs  wet  with  cream;  dot  with  butter, 
cover  and  bake  half  an  hour,  then  brown. 

Eggplant  stuffed  with  tomatoes 

Halve  the  eggplant  and  remove  the  insides  as  in  the  last  recipe 
but  one.  Make  a  forcemeat  of  the  eggplant  pulp,  a  cupful  of 
chopped  ripe  tomatoes,  one  chopped  green  pepper,  and  a  cupful  of 
bread-crumbs.  Season  with  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter  and 
salt  and  pepper.  Fill  the  hollow  sides  with  this  mixture,  bind  the 
two  halves  together  with  wide  tape,  and  bake,  basting  frequently 
with  melted  butter  and  hot  water.  When  tender,  transfer  to  a 
hot  platter,  cut  and  remove  the  tape,  and  pour  hot  tomato  sauce 
about  the  eggplant. 


454  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Stewed  eggplant,  with  sauce  piquante 

Prepare  as  for  eggplant  on  the  half -shell  by  halving  and  scoop- 
ing out  the  pulp,  leaving  substantial  walls.  Chop  the  pulp  and 
cover  with  hot  water.  Season  with  a  tablespoonful  of  onion 
juice,  salt  and  pepper,  and  simmer  for  fifteen  minutes.  Take 
from  the  fire,  drain,  turn  into  a  bowl  and  work  in  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  soft  bread-crumbs,  one  tablespoonful  of  finely-chopped 
capers,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  boiled  tongue,  minced,  and, 
when  well-mixed,  add  salt  to  taste. 

Pack  this  forcemeat  closely  into  each  half,  and  fit  the  two  parts 
together,  binding  securely  together  with  tapes  or  soft  twine. 

Put  into  your  covered  roaster ;  pour  enough  weak  stock  around 
it  to  come  one-third  of  the  way  up  the  side,  bake,  covered,  half 
an  hour,  then  turn  and  cook  the  other  side.  Undo  the  strings, 
lay  the  eggplant  carefully  in  the  middle  of  a  hot  dish,  and  pour  a 
good  sauce  piquante  over  and  around  it. 

HOMINY 

THE  small-grained  hominy,  called  at  the  South  "samp,"  after 
the  manner  of  the  aborigines  who  bequeathed  it  to  us,  must  be 
used  in  the  recipes  which  follow. 

Plain  hominy  pudding 

Soak  a  cupful  of  hominy  for  three  hours  in  tepid  water.  Drain, 
and  put  over  the  fire  in  plenty  of  boiling  water,  slightly  salted. 
Boil  fast  for  thirty  minutes  or  until  tender ;  turn  off  the  water 
and  pour  in  a  pint  of  hot  milk,  with  a  little  salt.  Cook  for  fifteen 
minutes,  stir  in  a  generous  lump  of  butter  and  turn  into  a  deep 
dish. 

Eat  with  sugar  and  cream. 

Baked  hominy 

Stir  into  a  pint  of  milk  a  cupful  of  cold  boiled  hominy,  and  when 
this  is  smooth,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  a  tablespoon- 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  455 

ful  of  sugar,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  four  well-beaten  eggs.  Beat 
very  light,  pour  into  a  buttered  pudding-dish  and  bake  for  about 
half  an  hour  or  until  "set"  and  brown.  This  is  a  good  accom- 
paniment to  roast  beef. 

*  •  r 

Hominy  croquettes 

Into  two  cupfuls  of  boiled  hominy  work  a  tablespoonful  of 
melted  butter ;  when  the  cereal  is  free  from  all  lumps,  add  to  it  two 
beaten  eggs,  and  when  these  are  thoroughly  incorporated,  season 
the  mixture  with  salt  and  pepper.  Flour  your  hands,  make  the 
paste  into  small  croquettes,  and  set  aside  until  stiff  and  very 
cold.  Now  dip  each  croquette  into  beaten  egg,  roll  in  cracker- 
crumbs,  and  when  all  are  thoroughly  coated  set  in  the  ice-box  for 
two  hours.  Fry  to  a  golden  brown  in  deep,  boiling  cottolene  or 
other  fat. 

Hominy  fritters 

Rub  two  cupfuls  of  cold  boiled  hominy  to  a  smooth  paste  with 
one  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter.  Next,  thin  with  warmed 
milk,  and  add  three  well-beaten  eggs.  Finally,  stir  in  a  cupful  of 
flour  which  has  been  sifted  twice  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and 
half  as  much  baking-powder. 

Drop  by  the  spoonful  into  boiling,  deep  cottolene  or  other  fat ; 
or,  better  still,  cook  upon  a  soapstone  griddle. 


KALE 

THIS  vegetable,  otherwise  known  as  "sea-kale,"  should  be  bet- 
ter known  in  our  country.  In  England  it  takes  high  rank  and 
holds  it  creditably. 

Pick  it  over  carefully,  clip  off  the  stems  and  lay  it  in  cold  water 
for  an  hour.  Drain,  and  put  it  into  a  saucepan  full  of  salted 
boiling  water.  Cook  until  tender,  drain  and  chop  fine.  Return 
to  the  saucepan  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste.  Serve  very  hot  on  squares  of  buttered  toast. 


456  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 


MACARONI 

FEW  articles  of  diet  are  more  toothsome  and  more  wholesome 
than  macaroni  in  its  various  forms  when  properly  prepared.  Like 
rice,  it  is  so  often  miserably  cooked  that  its  excellent  qualities 
are  not  generally  recognized.  Macaroni  may  be  bought  in  several 
shapes,  the  large,  or  pipe-macaroni  being  perhaps  the  most  com- 
mon. Besides  this  there  are  the  smaller  and  more  delicate  vermi- 
celli, spaghetti  and  the  flat  ribbon,  or  egg-macaroni.  Recipes  for 
the  cooking  of  one  may  be  used  in  the  preparation  of  any  of  the 
divers  phases  of  this  food. 

Baked  macaroni  (No.  1) 

Break  into  inch-lengths  half  a  pound  of  macaroni.  Boil  it  until 
tender  in  weak  broth.  Drain  off  the  liquor;  put  the  macaroni 
into  a  pudding-dish  that  will  stand  the  fire;  pour  over  it  a  half 
cupful  of  the  stock  in  which  it  was  boiled,  and  put  a  tablespoonful 
of  butter,  broken  into  small  pieces,  here  and  there  through  it. 
Sift  over  it  fine  bread-crumbs  and  grated  cheese ;  dot  with  bits  of 
butter  and  brown  in  the  oven. 

Baked  macaroni  (No.  2) 

Break  half  a  pound  of  macaroni  into  short  lengths ;  cook  until 
tender  in  boiling,  salted  water.  It  must  be  clear  and  soft,  but  not 
broken.  Drain  and  put  a  layer  in  the  bottom  of  a  buttered  pud- 
ding-dish. Dot  with  butter,  sprinkle  lightly  with  cayenne  and 
salt  to  taste ;  cover  with  grated  cheese,  and  on  this  dispose  another 
layer  of  macaroni.  Fill  the  dish  in  this  order,  having  cheese  for 
the  top  layer.  Pour  in  a  cupful  of  milk ;  cover,  and  bake  half  an 
hour.  Uncover  and  brown. 

Creamed  macaroni 

Put  a  cupful  of  macaroni  into  two  quarts  of  boiling  salted  water 
and  cook  for  twenty-five  minutes,  or  until  tender,  but  not  broken. 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  457 

Drain  off  all  the  water  and  keep  the  macaroni  hot  in  a  covered 
dish  while  you  make  the  cream  sauce  to  pour  over  it.  Cook  to- 
gether in  a  saucepan  until  they  bubble,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  flour 
and  the  same  quantity  of  butter;  pour  over  them  a  pint  of  hot 
milk,  and,  as  this  thickens,  stir  into  it  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls 
of  grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Pour  this  sauce  upon  the  macaroni 
just  before  serving,  lifting  the  latter  lightly  with  a  fork  that  the 
creamy  sauce  may  reach  every  part. 

Macaroni  with  cheese  sauce 

Boil  tender  in  salted  water  and  drain.  Cook  together  in  a 
saucepan  a  great  spoonful  of  butter  and  a  cupful  of  grated  Swiss 
cheese.  As  soon  as  the  cheese  is  melted,  turn  the  macaroni  into 
the  saucepan  and  stir  and  toss  with  a  silver  fork  until  thoroughly 
blended  with  the  sauce.  Serve  at  once. 

Macaroni  and  chicken 

Boil  half  a  package  of  spaghetti  tender,  drain,  drop  into  cold 
water,  and  drain  again.  Lay  on  a  biscuit-board  and  cut  into 
pieces  about  half  an  inch  long.  Thicken  a  pint  of  chicken  stock 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  rubbed  into  one  of  butter.  Stir  into 
this  a  cupful  of  cold  boiled  or  roast  chicken,  chopped  fine,  and  the 
cold  macaroni.  Last  of  all,  beat  in  slowly  a  whipped  egg,  remove 
from  the  fire,  season  to  taste,  turn  into  a  greased  pudding-dish, 
sprinkle  crumbs  over  the  top  and  bake  for  half  an  hour. 

Send  around  grated  cheese  with  it.  You  may  use  veal  if  you 
have  no  chicken. 

Macaroni  and  tomatoes  (very  nice) 

Break  half  a  pound  of  pipe  macaroni  into  inch-lengths,  and  boil 
in  salted  water  until  tender.  Drain,  and  put  a  layer  of  the  maca- 
roni in  the  bottom  of  a  greased -pudding-dish,  sprinkle  with  pep- 
per, salt,  onion  juice  and  grated  cheese,  and  cover  all  with  a  layer 
of  stewed  and  strained  tomatoes  that  have  been  previously  sea- 
soned to  taste.  On  these  goes  another  layer  of  macaroni,  and  so 


458  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

on  until  the  dish  is  full.  The  topmost  layer  must  be  of  tomatoes 
sprinkled  with  crumbs  and  good-sized  bits  of  butter.  Set  in  a 
hot  oven,  covered,  for  twenty  minutes,  and  then  bake,  uncovered, 
until  the  crumbs  are  well-browned. 

Spaghetti  with  Swiss  cheese 

Break  a  half  pound  of  spaghetti  into  bits  not  more  than  an 
inch  and  a  half  in  length,  and  boil  in  slightly  salted  water  for 
twenty  minutes.  Turn  into  a  hot  colander  and  set  at  the  side  of 
the  range  to  drain.  Grate  enough  Swiss  cheese  to  make  a  gen- 
erous half  cupful  and  turn  into  a  saucepan  with  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  melted  butter.  Stir  well ;  add  the  hot  spaghetti,  toss  and 
stir  for  a  minute,  or  just  long  enough  to  melt  the  cheese;  add  a 
dash  of  paprika  and  serve  in  a  hot  dish. 

Macaroni  rissoles 

Have  ready  a  cupful  of  cold,  boiled  macaroni  cut  up  small. 
Make  a  white  sauce  by  cooking  together  a  tablespoonful  of  butter 
and  two  of  flour  and  stirring  into  them  a  cupful  of  hot  milk.  Stir 
until  thick,  add  a  large  tablespoonful  of  grated  cheese,  and,  grad- 
ually, the  whipped  yolks  of  four  eggs,  beating  all  the  time.  Work 
the  macaroni  into  the  sauce  and  set  aside  until  the  mixture  is  very 
cold.  With  floured  hands  form  into  small  balls — not  quite  as 
large  in  circumference  as  a  silver  dollar — roll  in  beaten  egg,  then 
in  fine  cracker-crumbs,  and  set  in  the  ice-box  for  two  hours.  Fry 
in  deep,  boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat.  Serve  with  tomato  sauce. 

Macaroni  piquante 

Break  spaghetti  into  very  small  bits  less  than  an  inch  in  length. 
Boil  these  for  twenty  minutes,  or  until  tender,  in  salted  water. 
Drain  and  keep  hot  while  you  make  the  folowing  sauce : 

Cook  together  in  a  saucepan  a  heaping  teaspoonful,  each,  of 
butter  and  browned  flour,  and  when  these  are  blended  to  a  brown 
roux,  pour  upon  them  a  pint  of  beef  stock,  and  stir  until  smooth. 
Now  add  four  tablcspoonfuls  of  tomato  catsup,  six  drops  of 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  459 

Tabasco  sauce,  a  teaspoonful  of  kitchen  bouquet,  a  pinch  of  salt 
and  a  dash  of  paprika.  Turn  the  boiled  spaghetti  into  this  sauce, 
stir  all  together,  and  pour  the  mixture  into  a  greased  pudding- 
dish.  Sprinkle  buttered  crumbs  and  grated  cheese  over  the  top 
and  bake  until  brown. 

Macaroni  a  la  Napolitaine 

Have  a  long  fish  kettle  half  full  of  boiling,  salted  water,  and 
lay  a  half  pound  of  unbroken  pipe-macaroni  in  this.  Boil  for 
twenty  minutes  or  until  tender.  Carefully  drain  the  water  from 
the  kettle  and  slip  the  macaroni  gently  upon  a  heated  platter, 
where  it  may  lie  at  full  length.  Set  the  platter  in  the  oven  to  keep 
warm  while  you  make  a  sauce  by  cooking  together  in  a  saucepan 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  one  of  flour,  and  pouring  upon 
them  a  pint  of  strained  tomato  liquor.  Stir  to  a  smooth  sauce, 
then  season  with  onion  juice,  celery  salt,  pepper,  and  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  Parmesan  cheese.  Pour  this  sauce  over  the  maca- 
roni on  the  platter.  When  you  serve,  cut  the  mass  with  a  sharp 
knife  into  manageable  lengths. 


MUSHROOMS 

IT  is  a  pity  there  should  be  such  a  popular  dread  of  the  poison- 
ous "toadstool"  that  his  nutritious  and  innocuous  brother — the 
edible  mushroom — is  shunned  by  thousands  of  rational  creatures. 
The  most  wary  need  not  fear  this  joy  of  the  epicure  when  it  is 
bought  at  market  or  at  a  responsible  grocer's  shop.  Trustworthy 
dealers  run  no  risks  in  purchasing  the  wares  from  those  whose 
business  it  is  to  cultivate  and  sell  them.  Mushrooms  bought 
under  these  circumstances  are  no  more  to  be  feared  than  arti- 
chokes or  Brussels  sprouts.  They  form  delicious  entrees  and 
tempt  the  most  jaded  appetite. 

Broiled  mushrooms 

Peel  carefully  with  a  small  knife  and  cut  off  the  stems.  Lay 
the  mushrooms  in  a  deep  dish  and  pour  melted  butter  over  them. 


460  MARION    HARLAND'S    GOOK   BOOK 

Remove  them  gently  to  a  greased  gridiron  and  broil  over  clear 
coals  until  delicately  browned  on  both  sides.  Lay  diamond- 
shaped  slices  of  thin  buttered  toast  in  a  dish,  and  the  mush- 
rooms upon  these,  sprinkle  with  pepper  and  salt  and  pour  a  little 
melted  butter  over  all. 

Fried  mushrooms 

Melt  a  great  spoonful  of  butter  in  an  agate  frying-pan.  Peel 
the  mushrooms  and  cut  off  their  stems,  scraping  the  latter.  Lay 
the  mushrooms  with  their  scraped  stalks  in  the  frying-pan  and 
cook,  turning  often,  until  done.  Serve  very  hot. 

Stewed  mushrooms 

Peel  the  mushrooms  and  simmer  gently  in  salted  water  until 
tender.  Ten  minutes  should  suffice.  Drain  and  keep  hot  while 
you  make  a  white  sauce  of  a  half  pint  of  milk  thickened  with  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour  rubbed  into  one  of  butter.  Turn  the  mush- 
rooms into  this  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  very  hot.  Season  with 
salt,  pepper,  a  dash  of  mace,  and  serve. 

* 

Baked  mushrooms 

Peel  very  large  mushrooms  and  cut  off  their  stems.  Grease  a 
shallow  pudding-dish  and  put  a  layer  of  mushrooms,  under  sides 
upward,  into  this.  Into  each  mushroom  pour  a  few  drops  of 
melted  butter.  Do  not  put  more  than  two  layers  in  the  dish. 
Bake,  closely  covered,  in  a  quick  oven  until  tender.  This  should 
be  in  about  twenty  minutes.  When  done,  remove  the  cover,  pour 
melted  butter  over  the  mushrooms,  and  serve  very  hot  in  the  dish 
in  which  they  were  cooked. 

Fricasseed  mushrooms 

Peel  and  remove  the  stems  from  large  mushrooms.  Make  a 
forcemeat  by  chopping  the  white  meat  of  a  cold  roast  chicken  fine 
with  a  few  small  mushrooms  and  moistening  it  with  chicken  stock. 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  461 

Grease  a  pudding-dish  and  lay  the  large  mushrooms,  tops  down, 
in  this.  Fill  the  mushrooms  and  the  space  between  them  with 
the  forcemeat.  Sprinkle  bits  of  butter  over  all.  Pour  in  enough 
of  the  chicken  stock  to  make  the  contents  of  the  dish  very  moist, 
lay  a  few  wafer-like  slices  of  bacon  on  top  of  the  scallop,  and 
bake,  covered,  in  a  hot  oven  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Uncover, 
and  cook  for  five  minutes  longer.  Serve  in  the  dish  in  which  they 
were  cooked. 


ONIONS 

A  ONCE-DESPISED  vegetable  which  now  takes  rank  as  a  highly- 
respectable  edible  upon  good  men's — and  women's — tables.  Deli- 
cate spinsters  no  longer  faint  at  fumes  of  boiled  onions,  and  finical 
housewives  have  forgotten  the  rusty  joke  about  cooking  onioris 
in  the  middle  of  a  ten-acre  lot.  There  are  ways  of  extracting  the 
coarser  flavor  that  once  condemned  them  with  dyspeptics.  Coo&s 
have  learned  that  there  is  as  much  difference  between  a  well-done 
and  a  parboiled  onion  as  between  half-cooked  and  mealy  potatoes. 
Housewives  and  physicians  now  appreciate  the  nutritive  values  of 
the  esculent  bulb,  and  prize  it  for  these  as  well  as  for  the  season- 
ing which  nothing  else  supplies.  Onion  juice  is  indispensable  to 
the  flavor  of  ragouts  and  soups,  and  is  obtained  by  grating,  not 
chopping.  The  superiority  of  this  mode  of  getting  the  essence  of 
the  vegetable  can  not  be  rightly  estimated  by  one  who  has  not 
tried  it.  Onion  seasoning  should  be  tasted,  never  seen. 

Stewed  young  onions 

Cut  off  the  stalks,  remove  the  skins  and  lay  the  onions  in  cold 
water  for  half  an  hour.  Put  them  over  the  fire  in  hot,  salted  water 
and  cook  for  twenty  minutes.  Drain  off  the  water  and  return  the 
onions  to  the  fire  with  a  cupful  of  hot  milk,  in  which  has  been 
dissolved  a  bit  of  soda  the  size  of  a  pea.  Add  a  tablespoonful  of 
flour  and  stew  slowly  until  the  sauce  is  like  thick  cream. 


462  MARION   HARLAND  S    COOK   BOOK 

Boiled  onions 

Peel  and  lay  for  an  hour  in  cold  water.  Boil  in  two  waters 
until  tender.  Drain,  sprinkle  with  pepper  and  salt ;  put  into  a  deep 
vegetable-dish  and  pour  over  them  a  great  spoonful  of  melted 
butter. 

Baked  onions  (No.  1) 

Peel  the  onions  and  boil  for  ten  minutes.  Drain,  arrange  in  a 
greased  pudding-dish,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  pour 
over  all  a  white  sauce,  to  which  a  beaten  egg  has  been  added. 
Sprinkle  with  fine  crumbs,  set  in  the  oven  and  bake,  covered,  for 
twenty  minutes,  then  uncover  and  brown. 

Baked  onions  (No.  2) 

Cook  tender  in  boiling  water  changed  once  after  fifteen  min- 
utes ;  drain  and  arrange,  side  by  side,  in  a  baking-pan.  Melt  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  cupful  of  hot  soup  stock,  season  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  pour  over  the  onions.  Cook  in  a  hot  oven  until 
the  onions  are  brown,  when  they  may  be  lifted  with  a  perforated 
spoon  and  put  into  the  dish  in  which  they  are  to  be  served.  Put 
the  pan  of  gravy  on  top  of  the  range,  thicken  the  contents  with 
browned  flour  and  pour  over  the  onions.  Serve  very  hot. 

Savory  onions 

Select  young  onions  for  this  dishi  Lay  the  onions  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  very  little  salted  water  and  simmer  for  ten  minutes. 
Drain  off  the  water ;  pour  over  the  onions  a  small  cupful  of  beef 
stock  and  cook  for  ten  minutes  longer.  With  a  split  spoon  re- 
move the  onions  to  a  hot  dish,  while  you  thicken  the  gravy  left 
in  the  pan  with  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  browned  flour  rubbed  to 
a  paste  in  the  same  quantity  of  butter.  When  you  have  a  smooth 
brown  sauce  season  it  with  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  kitchen  bou- 
quet and  tomato  catsup,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Pour  this 
sauce  over  the  onions. 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  463 

Stuffed  onions,  creamed 

Boil  eight  large  onions  gently  until  quite  tender,  but  not  broken. 
Drain,  and  when  cold,  carefully  remove  the  hearts  or  centers. 
Chop  three  of  these  hearts  fine  and  mix  with  them  a  cupful  of 
minced  ham  and  season  to  taste.  Moisten  with  rich  cream  and 
the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg.  Fill  the  centers  of  the  onions  with  the 
mixture,  put  a  piece  of  butter  in  the  top  of  each,  set  side  by  side, 
in  a  deep  dish,  pour  a  little  milk  about  them  and  bake,  covered,  for 
twenty  minutes.  Then  uncover,  sprinkle  with  buttered  crumbs 
and  bake  ten  minutes  longer.  Serve  hot. 

Scalloped  onions 

Parboil  onions  and  drain.  When  cold,  cut  into  bits.  Put  a 
thick  layer  of'  these  in  the  bottom  of  a  greased  pudding-dish, 
sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper  and  dot  with  bits  of  butter.  Cover 
with  a  very  thin  layer  of  crumbs  moistened  with  milk.  Put  in 
more  seasoned  onions  and  more  crumbs,  and  proceed  in  this  way 
until  the  dish  is  full.  Then  pour  in  carefully  a  little  cream,  cover 
and  bake  for  half  an  hour ;  uncover  and  brown. 

Onion  custard 

Cook  the  onions  tender  in  two  waters ;  drain,  and  lay  in  a  deep 
pudding-dish.  Thicken  a  pint  of  hot  milk  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
corn-starch  rubbed  into  two  teaspoonfuls  of  butter  and  gradually 
pour  this  white  sauce  upon  two  beaten  eggs.  Season  with  pepper 
and  salt  and  pour  the  mixture  about  the  onions.  Bake  until  the 
custard  is  set. 

GREEN   PEAS 

THEY  lose  sweetness  with  every  hour — I  might  say  with  every 
minute — that  passes  after  they  have  been  picked.  The  passage 
from  garden  to  kitchen  and  from  pod  to  pot  should  be  made  as 
short  as  possible.  As  you  shell  throw  them  into  cold  water,  not 


464  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

holding  them  in  the  hand  until  they  are  heated  and  moist.     As 
soon  as  the  last  is  shelled,  drain  and  cook. 

Boiled  green  peas 

Shell  and  lay  in  cold  water  for  ten  minutes.  Drain,  turn  into 
slightly  salted  boiling  water  and  cook  for  about  twenty-five  min- 
utes, or  until  very  tender,  but  not  broken.  Drain  in  a  colander, 
put  into  a  dish,  stir  into  the  peas  a  lump  of  butter,  and  sprinkle 
very  lightly  with  salt  and  pepper. 

Green  pea  pancakes 

Boil  a  pint  of  shelled  peas,  and  mash  while  hot,  adding  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Now  beat  in  two 
whipped  eggs,  a  half  pint  of  milk  and  five  tablespoonfuls  of  pre- 
pared flour.  Beat  hard  and  fry  on  a  hot  griddle.  A  soapstone 
griddle  is  best.  Then  they  are  baked — not  fried. 

Green  pea  souffle 

Boil  a  pint  of  shelled  peas  until  very  tender,  and  mash  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter.  Beat  three  eggs  light  and  stir 
into  them  a  pint  of  milk  and  the  mashed  peas.  Season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  beat  hard  and  turn  into  a  greased  pudding-dish. 
Bake,  covered,  for  twenty  minutes ;  uncover  and  brown.  Serve 
this  souffle  as  soon  as  it  is  removed  from  the  oven. 

Green  pea  fritters 

Shell  enough  peas  to  make  a  quart  without  the  pods.  Lay  the 
peas  in  cold  water  for  a  half  hour ;  put  over  the  fire  in  two  quarts 
of  boiling  salted  water  and  cook  for  half  an  hour,  or  until  very 
tender,  but  not  broken.  Drain  free  of  water,  turn  into  a  bowl  and 
mash  soft  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  with  salt  to  taste. 
Beat  four  eggs  very  light,  add  to  them  three  gills  of  milk  and  a 
cupful  of  flour  with  which  has  been  sifted  a  teaspoonful  of  baking- 
powder  and  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Stir  the  mashed  peas  by 


TOAST  AND  ANCHOVIES   GARNISHED 
WITH   LEMON 


STUFFED  TOMATOES   GARNISHED  WITH   RICE 


AND    SHREDDED   LEMON 


KEEN    PEAS    GARNISHED    WITH    POTATOES 


DINNER    VEGETABLES  465 

the  great  spoonful  into  this  mixture  and  beat  until  you  have  a 
smooth,  light  green  batter.  Have  your  soapstone  griddle  very  hot 
and  drop  your  batter  by  the  spoonful  upon  this.  When  done  on 
one  side  turn  and  bake  to  a  delicate  brown.  Serve  very  hot  as  a 
vegetable  to  accompany  any  kind  of  meat  or  poultry. 

Green  pea  croquettes 

Peas  that  are  getting  hard  will  do  for  these.  Boil  in  just 
enough  salted  water  to  cover  them  well.  While  hot,  run  through 
the  vegetable  press.  Beat  to  a  smooth  paste  with  a  tablespoonful 
of  butter  and  two  of  flour.  Pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  drop  in  a 
dash  of  onion  juice;  lastly,  beat  in  a  well- whipped  egg.  Stir  in  a 
vessel  set  within  another  of  boiling  water  until  hot  all  through, 
and  set  away  until  cold  and  stiff.  Mold  then  into  croquettes,  dip 
in  beaten  egg  and  cracker-crumbs ;  leave  on  ice  for  half  an  hour 
before  frying  in  boiling  deep  cottolene  or  other  fat.  Drain  and 
serve  very  hot. 

You  may  use  canned  peas  if  you  can  not  get  fresh. 


PEPPERS 

THE  large,  green  peppers,  known  to  the  green-grocer  as  "sweet 
peppers,"  have  grown  rapidly  into  favor  as  a  fresh  vegetable, 
within  the  last  decade.  They  must  be  seeded  with  the  utmost  care. 
A  touch  of  the  seeds  against  the  green  sides  will  ruin  the  latter 
for  present  use.  Get  hold  of  the  inner  stem  and  draw  the  clus- 
tered seeds  through  the  opening  at  the  stem  end,  without  touching 
the  inside  walls. 

Fried  green  peppers 

Cut  open  lengthwise  and  extract  all  seeds  and  tough  white 
fiber.  Slice  crosswise.  Lay  in  cold  salted  water  for  ten  minutes, 
then  wipe  dry.  Melt  four  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan 
and  saute  the  sliced  peppers  in  this.  Lay  about  broiled  steak  or 
chops. 
30 


466  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Stuffed  peppers 

Make  a  forcemeat  of  a  tablespoonful  of  minced  ham,  one  of 
minced  chicken,  three  chopped  mushrooms  and  a  cupful  of  boiled 
rice.  Make  this  paste  wet  by  adding  to  it  a  chopped  tomato  and 
enough  melted  butter  to  make  it  of  the  right  consistency  for  stuf- 
fing. Smooth  the  stem-ends,  cut  the  blossom-ends  from  green 
peppers  and  take  out  the  seeds  and  inside  fibers.  Lay  the  green 
shells  for  three  minutes  in  salted  boiling  water,  then  plunge  into 
iced  water.  Let  them  lie  in  this  for  fifteen  minutes.  Drain  and 
wipe  dry.  Fill  with  the  forcemeat,  replace  the  tips,  and  stand 
the  peppers,  side  by  side,  in  a  dripping-pan  containing  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  of  soup  stock.  Cook  for  twenty  minutes,  basting  twice 
with  a  little  salad  oil.  When  done,  stand  the  peppers  on  a  platter 
and  pour  a  little  salad  oil  about  them. 


Peppers  stuffed  with  fish 

Trim  the  stem-ends  of  your  green  peppers  so  that  they  will 
stand  up.  Cut  off  the  tips  and,  with  a  small  keen  knife,  extract 
the  seeds  and  as  much  of  the  tough  fiber  as  will  come  away. 
Mince  white  fish  fine,  moisten  it  with  a  white  sauce,  season  and 
fill  the  peppers  with  this  mixture.  Stand  in  the  oven  long  enough 
to  heat  through,  and  serve. 


Scalloped  peppers  au  gratin 

Cut  large  green  peppers  in  half,  lengthwise,  extract  core  and 
seeds  and  fill  them  with  minced  cold  cooked  fish,  well  seasoned, 
mixed  with  one-third  its  weight  of  fine  bread  crumbs.  The  mix- 
ture (forcemeat)  must  be  wet  with  gravy  or  tomato  sauce.  Round 
the  contents  of  the  halved  pepper  in  the  shape  of  the  missing 
other  half,  sprinkle  with  fine  crumbs,  and  bake  to  a  light  brown. 

You  may  use  for  these  scallops  of  cold  chicken,  lean  lamb  or 
veal.  See  that  you  do  not  get  the  forcemeat  too  stiff. 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  467 

Scalloped  peppers  on  the  half -shell 

Halve  the  peppers  lengthwise,  remove  seeds  and  membrane, 
and  parboil  for  five  minutes.  When  cold,  fill  the  halves  with 
minced  roast  beef  and  fine  bread-crumbs  moistened  with  tomato 
juice.  Bake  in  a  covered  pan,  basting  every  ten  minutes.  At  the 
end  of  a  half  hour  remove  to  a  hot  platter  and  serve  with  tomato 
sauce  poured  over  and  around  the  halved  peppers. 

Peppers  and  rice 
(A  Creole  dish.) 

Cook  half  a  cupful  of  rice  in  plenty  of  boiling  water,  a  little  salt, 
for  twenty  minutes  hard.  Drain  in  a  colander  and  set  at  the  back 
of  the  range  to  dry  off.  Heap  within  a  deep  dish. 

Prepare  your  peppers  as  already  directed.  Slice  as  for  frying 
in  the  usual  way.  When  you  take  them  from  the  cold  salt  and 
water,  fry  them  in  a  great  spoonful  of  butter.  Lift  them  from  the 
pan  and  chop  rather  coarsely.  Add  to  the  hot  butter  and  peppers 
a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  stock. 
Boil  up  and  pour  upon  the  rice.  Set  in  the  oven,  covered,  for 
three  minutes,  and  serve. 


POKE    STALKS 

CUT  as  you  would  asparagus,  when  they  are  but  a  few  inches 
high.  They  are  then  tender  and  succulent,  and  are  thought  by 
some  imaginative  vegetarians  to  resemble  the  "aristocrat"  in 
flavor. 

They  are  undeniably  wholesome — also  inexpensive. 

Scrape  the  stalks  and  lay  in  cold  water  for  an  hour.  Tie  loosely 
together  with  a  piece  of  soft  twine,  put  over  the  fire  with  enough 
salted  water  to  cover  them,  and  boil  until  tender.  Drain,  sprinkle 
lightly  with  salt  and  pepper  and  lay  upon  a  platter  on  slices  of 
buttered  toast.  Pour  white  sauce  over  all. 


468  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 


POTATOES 

"THE  Tyrant  Potato"  is  not  assailed  ignorantly,  nor  yet  flip- 
pantly. After  careful  study  of  its  properties,  its  works  and  its 
ways,  the  utmost  concession  that  is  now  made  to  peculiar  preju- 
dice is  in  the  declaration  that,  since  people  will  make  potatoes 
nine-tenths  of  their  vegetable  diet,  it  is  essential  to  the  national 
digestion  that  the  ninety-three  parts  of  water  and  of  starch  con- 
tained in  the  tuber  be  cooked  in  such  manner  as  shall  render  the 
esculent  as  palatable  and  as  little  hurtful  as  is  practicable  when 
the  constituents  are  not  to  be  ignored. 

The  above  protest  stands  at  the  head  of  that  section  of  the 
"NATIONAL  COOK  BOOK"  which  is  headed  "POTATOES."  I  wrote 
it  ten  years  ago,  and  am  "of  the  same  opinion  still." 

Talk  against  it  as  we  may,  the  potato  holds  its  sway  in  defiance 
of  chemistry  and  dietetics,  and  our  Johns,  one  and  all,  insist  upon 
its  daily  appearance.  As  one  weary  housewife  said  to  me : 

"If  I  give  my  fingers  to  be  burned  in  the  preparation  of  a  half 
dozen  vegetables  and  have  not  potatoes  in  the  number,  my  culinary 
and  housekeeping  skill  are  as  sounding  brass  and  tinkling  cym- 
bals— to  my  husband,  at  least.  And  I  am  so  tired  of  the  same  old 
ways  of  cooking  the  same  old  potatoes !" 

Her  remark  made  me  wonder  why  housekeepers  adhere  to  the 
"same  old  ways."  Why  not  try  new  ones  ? 

One  hint  may  be  acted  upon  with  advantage  to  cook  and  to 
eaters. 

One  of  the  bugbears  to  the  housewife  is  paring  potatoes.  It  is 
not  a  pleasant  task,  and  the  necessity  of  performing  it  recurs  with 
disagreeable  frequency. 

The  housekeeper  is  wise  if,  while  the  potatoes  are  in  the  process 
of  peeling,  she  pares  and  cooks  more  than  enough  for  the  repast 
for  which  they  are  intended,  and  by  utilizing  the  cold  left-overs 
does  away  with  the  necessity  of  peeling  more  of  the  tyrannical 
starch-and-water  for  the  next  meal. 

A  majority  of  the  recipes  herewith  given  are  based  upon  the 
supposition  that  she  has  done  this. 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  469 

New  potatoes  with  cream  sauce 

(Contributed) 

Boil  the  potatoes  in  salted  water  until  done.  Drain  and  cover 
with  a  white  sauce  made  as  follows :  Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
butter  into  a  saucepan  and  when  it  begins  to  bubble  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour ;  let  them  cook  for  one  minute,  then  add  one  pint 
of  hot  milk,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  half  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley. 

Potatoes,  boiled  au  natural 

Wash,  drop  into  boiling  water  slightly  salted,  and  cook  fast 
until  a  fork  will  pass  easily  into  the  largest.  Turn  off  the  water, 
throw  in  a  handful  of  salt,  and  set  the  pot,  uncovered,  at  the  back 
or  side  of  the  range,  to  dry  the  potatoes  "off."  Serve  in  their 
skins. 

Boiled  potatoes 

Pare  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  as  thin  as  possible.  Much  of  the 
mealiness  of  the  potato  depends  upon  this.  The  scullion  who 
slashes  away  chunks  of  her  beloved  edible  really  deprives  it  of  its 
chief  merit,  and  all  its  comeliness.  Have  a  pot  of  boiling  water 
ready,  salt  it  slightly  and  boil  fast  until  a  fork  pierces  the  largest 
readily.  Throw  off  the  water  immediately,  sprinkle  with  salt,  and 
dry  out  as  directed  in  last  recipe. 

Baked  potatoes  (No.  1) 

Select  fine  potatoes  of  uniform  size.  Wash,  wipe  and  bake  until 
the  largest  yields  to  the  pressure  of  thumb  and  finger.  Serve 
wrapped  in  a  hot  napkin.  If  the  eater  will  knead  his  potato  skil- 
fully between  his  fingers  before  breaking  it  open,  he  will  find  a 
mealy  mass  upon  opening  it.  Never  cut  a  baked  potato.  It 
makes  it  "soggy." 

Baked  potatoes  (No.  2) 

Pare  and  parboil ;  then  set  in  an  open  bakepan  in  the  oven  and 
bake  about  half  an  hour,  basting  freely  with  butter  or  dripping 
until  you  have  a  delicate  brown  "glaze"  upon  each. 


470  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

These  may  be  eaten  as  a  separate  dish,  or  as  a  garnish  for  roast 
beef. 

Stuffed  potatoes 

Bake  eight  large  potatoes  until  done.  Cut  off  the  tops  with  a 
sharp  knife  and  scoop  out  the  insides  with  a  small  spoon.  Set 
aside  the  skins  for  future  use.  With  the  back  of  a  spoon  mash 
the  potatoes  smooth,  rub  into  them  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  a 
gill  of  cream,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  finely  minced  onion,  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  minced  parsley  and  salt  and  cayenne  pepper  to  taste.  When 
you  have  worked  these  ingredients  to  a  smooth  mass,  beat  in  the 
stiffened  whites  of  two  eggs.  Fill  the  empty  potato  skins  with 
this  creamy  mixture,  heaping  it  high.  Stand  the  potato  cases  on 
end,  side  by  side,  in  a  baking-pan  and  set  in  the  oven  until  the 
potato  protruding  from  the  tops  is  a  delicate  brown. 

Potatoes  on  the  half-shell 

Bake  large  smooth  potatoes,  and  cut  each  carefully  in  half 
lengthwise.  Scrape  out  the  insides,  leaving  the  skins  whole.  Beat 
what  you  have  taken  out  to  a  cream  with  melted  butter,  cream  or 
milk,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  fill  the  "shells,"  rounding 
the  potato  on  top.  Put  a  dot  of  butter  upon  each  and  brown  light- 
ly upon  the  upper  grating  of  your  oven. 

Potato  souffle 

Into  two  cupfuls  of  mashed  potato  work  three  cupfuls  of  hot 
milk  in  which  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  have  been  half  melted. 
Beat  out  all  the  lumps  until  you  have  a  smooth  puree.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Beat  four  eggs  very  light  and  whip  them  into 
the  potato  and  milk.  When  thoroughly  mixed  pour  into  a  deep 
greased  pudding-dish  and  bake  in  a  good  oven  until  "set"  and 
delicately  browned. 

Potato  croquettes 

Warm  in  a  double  boiler  two  cupfuls  of  mashed  potatoes  and  stir 
into  this  two  teaspoonfuls  of  butter  and  the  beaten  yolks  of  two 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  471 

eggs.  Add  enough  milk  to  make  the  paste  of  the  right  consistency 
to  handle  easily.  With  lightly  floured  hands  form  into  croquettes 
and  set  aside  to  cool.  When  cold,  dip  in  beaten  egg  and  roll  in 
cracker-dust.  Set  in  the  ice-box  for  several  hours  longer  and  fry 
in  deep  cottolene  or  other  fat. 

Potato  fritters 

Peel  and  boil  four  large  potatoes,  and  when  they  are  cold  cut 
into  tiny  bits.  Make  a  batter  of  two  eggs — beaten  light — a  cupful 
of  milk  and  a  cupful  and  one-half  of  flour  sifted  twice  with  a  half 
teaspoonful  of  baking-powder.  Now  add  the  minced  potatoes,  mix 
well  and  season  with  salt.  Drop  this  mixture  by  the  spoonful  into 
deep,  boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat.  When  the  fritters  are  done  lift 
them  out  with  a  perforated  spoon,  and  lay  them  in  a  hot  colander 
to  drain  free  of  fat. 

Scalloped  potatoes 

Put  a  layer  of  sliced  cold-boiled  potatoes  in  the  bottom  of  a 
buttered  pudding-dish,  sprinkle  with  crumbs  and  bits  of  butter. 
Put  in  another  layer  of  potatoes  and  more  crumbs  until  the  dish 
is  full,  having  the  topmost  layer  of  the  buttered  crumbs.  Moisten 
all  by  pouring  carefully  into  the  dish  a  cupful  of  well-seasoned 
white  stock.  Bake  for  twenty  minutes. 

Stewed  potatoes  (No.  1) 

Peel,  cut  into  neat,  small  dice  and  lay  in  cold  water  for  an  hour. 
Put  over  the  fire  in  boiling  water,  slightly  salted,  and  cook  ten- 
der. Turn  off  the  water  and  pour  in  a  large  cupful  of  hot  milk, 
in  which  you  have  stirred  a  pinch  of  scrda.  Boil  one  minute  and 
stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  rubbed  into  one  of  flour.  Pepper 
and  salt,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  onion  juice  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
minced  parsley.  Simmer  for  another  minute,  and  serve. 

Stewed  potatoes  (No.  2) 

Peel  potatoes  and  cut  them  into  neat  squares.  Lay  in  cold 
water  for  an  hour,  drain,  and  put  them  over  the  fire  in  salted 


472  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

boiling  water.  Stew  until  they  are  tender,  but  not  soft.  Turn 
into  a  colander  to  drain.  Cook  together  in  a  saucepan  a  heaping 
teaspoonful,  each,  of  butter  and  browned  flour,  and  pour  upon 
them  a  pint  of  weak  beef  stock.  When  you  have  a  smooth,  thick 
sauce,  season  with  pepper,  salt  and  a  little  onion  juice,  and  mix 
with  the  potato  dice. 

Hashed  and  browned  potatoes 

Pare,  cut  very  small  and  evenly,  and  put  into  a  saucepan  with 
a  finely  minced  onion  and  a  stalk  of  celery  chopped  into  tiny  bits. 
Cover  with  salted  boiling  water  and  cook  tender.  Drain  off  the 
water,  supplying  its  place  with  milk,  heated  with  a  pinch  of  soda. 
Bring  to  a  bubble  and  stir  in  a  large  tablespoonful  of  butter, 
rubbed  to  a  cream  with  one  of  flour.  Pepper,  salt,  mix  well — but 
taking  care  not  to  break  the  potatoes — take  from  the  fire,  stir  and 
toss  for  a  moment,  then  turn  all  into  a  greased  pudding-dish, 
sprinkle  crumbs  on  the  top  and  brown  in  a  good  oven. 

Potatoes  £  la  duchesse 

Peel  and  boil  enough  potatoes  to  make  a  pint  when  mashed. 
Mix  with  them  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted 
butter  and  the  same  quantity  of  cream.  Turn  this  mixture  upon 
a  pastry-board  and  press  it  flat  and  smooth.  With  a  sharp  knife 
cut  the  potato'  paste  into  squares  of  uniform  size.  Slip  a  cake- 
turner  under  each  square  and  transfer  it  carefully  to  a  greased 
baking-pan.  Set  in  a  cold  place  to  stiffen,  then  sprinkle  with 
grated  Parmesan  cheese,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  to  a  delicate 
brown. 

Potatoes  a  la  Lyonnaise 

Cut  cold  boiled  potatoes  into  tiny  dice  of  uniform  size.  Put  two 
great  spoonfuls  of  butter  into  the  frying-pan  and  fry  two  sliced 
onions  in  this  for  three  minutes.  With  a  skimmer  remove  the 
onions  and  turn  the  potatoes  into  the  hissing  butter.  Toss  and 
stir  with  a  fork  that  the  dice  may  not  become  brown.  When  hot, 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  473 

add  a  teaspoonful  of  finely  chopped  parsley  and  cook  a  minute 
longer.  Remove  the  potatoes  from  the  pan  with  a  perforated 
spoon,  that  the  fat  may  drip  from  them.  Serve  very  hot. 

Savory  potatoes 

Heat  in  a  double  boiler  a  quart  of  milk  and  put  into  it  three 
sliced  onions.  Boil  for  ten  minutes,  strain  out  the  onions,  return 
the  milk  to  the  fire,  and  stir  into  it  two  teaspoonfuls  of  butter 
rubbed  into  two  of  flour,  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  minced  parsley. 
When  the  milk  is  as  thick  as  cream,  add  to  it  two  cupfuls  of 
sliced  cold  boiled  potatoes.  Season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and 
as  soon  as  the  potatoes  are  hot,  pour  all  into  a  greased  pudding- 
dish,  sprinkle  bread-crumbs  over  the  top  and  bake  until  brown. 

Potatoes  and  corn 

(A  "left-over.") 

Cut  the  kernels  from  six  ears  of  boiled  corn.  Cut  eight  cold 
boiled  potatoes  into  small  dice  of  uniform  size.  Put  into  a  frying- 
pan  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  turn  the  potatoes  and  corn  into 
this ;  salt  and  pepper.  Fry,  tossing  and  stirring  constantly,  for  ten 
minutes. 

Fried  potato  hash 

Chop  cold  boiled  potatoes,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  onion 
juice.  Have  two  tablespoonfuls  of  good  dripping,  hissing  hot,  in 
a  frying-pan ;  put  in  the  potatoes  and  pat  smooth.  Cook  slowly, 
turning  the  frying-pan  occasionally  that  they  may  brown  evenly 
on  the  bottom.  In  about  twenty  minutes  they  should  be  nicely 
colored  and  crusted  into  a  thick  sheet.  Reverse  carefully  upon  a 
hot  platter. 

Brown  creamed  potatoes 

Cut  eight  potatoes  into  small  dice  of  uniform  size,  boil  tender 
in  salted  water,  drain  and  stir  into  a  pint  of  milk  which  has  been 
thickened  with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  rubbed  into  one  of  butter ; 
season.  Turn  all  into  a  deep  dish  and  bake  until  brown. 


474  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Potatoes  with  cheese  sauce 

Boil  a  dozen  potatoes  and,  while  hot,  mash  soft  with  hot  milk 
and  melted  butter,  adding  salt  and  white  pepper  to  taste.  Whip 
light  and  heap  in  the  center  of  a  fire-proof  platter.  Smooth  the 
sides  of  the  mound  with  a  knife  and  carefully  remove  about  a 
cupful  of  potato  from  the  center  of  the  mound,  leaving  a  cavity 
in  its  place.  Dip  a  feather  or  brush  in  the  beaten  white  of  an  egg 
and  wash  the  inside  of  the  hollow  and  the  top  and  sides  of  the 
mound  with  this.  Now  set  in  the  oven  to  get  very  hot  and  to 
brown  lightly.  When  done  draw  to  the  door  of  the  oven  and  fill 
the  hollow  with  the  sauce — made  according  to  the  following 
recipe — sprinkle  the  potatoes  and  cheese  with  crumbs  and  return 
to  the  oven  for  five  minutes  before  sending  to  the  table. 

Sauce  for  the  above 

Heat  a  cupful  of  milk  with  a  generous  pinch  of  soda;  season 
with  pepper,  salt  and  onion  juice,  and  thicken  with  a  heaping 
tablespoonful  of  butter  cooked  to  a  roux  with  one  of  flour ;  cook 
one  minute  and  add  three  large  spoonfuls  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese. 

Mashed  potatoes 

Boil  and  mash  white  potatoes  and  whip  to  a  cream  with  a  cupful 
of  hot  milk  and  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter.  Whip  for 
fully  five  minutes  with  two  forks,  then  pile  upon  a  hot  platter. 

Potato  hillock 

Boil  potatoes,  dry  at  the  back  of  the  range,  salting  well,  and 
rub  through  a  vegetable  press  or  colander  upon  a  fire-proof  plat- 
ter. As  they  fall  let  them  form  a  conical  hillock  in  the  middle 
of  the  platter.  Grate  cheese  thickly  over  the  hillock  and  brown 
lightly  upon  the  upper  grating  of  your  oven. 

Potatoes  Parisienne 

Parisienne  potatoes  are  cut  into  small  balls  from  raw  potatoes 
with  a  French  vegetable  cutter  or  a  round  spoon.  They  may  be 
either  fried,  or  boiled  and  served  with  maitre  d'hotel  sauce. 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  475 

French  fried  potatoes 

Peel  potatoes,  cut  into  strips,  and  lay  in  iced  water  for  at  least 
an  hour.  Drain  and  pat  dry  between  the  folds  of  a  clean  dish- 
towel  that  should  absorb  every  drop  of  moisture.  Have  ready  a 
kettle  of  deep  cottolene  or  other  fat,  heated  gradually  until  it  is 
boiling  hot.  Test  this  by  dropping  in  a  bit  of  the  potato.  It 
should  rise  to  the  top  and  brown  immediately.  Put  in  the  pota- 
toes, fry  to  a  golden  brown,  drain,  first  in  a  hot  colander,  then 
shake  in  heated  tissue  paper  before  transferring  to  a  hot  dish 
lined  with  a  napkin. ' 

Saratoga  chips 

Peel  the  potatoes  and  proceed  as  directed  in  preceding  recipe 
when  you  have  cut  them  into  slices  as  thin  as  shavings. 

Potatoes  an  gratin 

Slice  potatoes  thin  and  put  in  layers  in  a  greased  pudding-dish, 
sprinkling  each  layer  with  salt,  pepper  and  bits  of  butter.  When 
all  are  in,  pour  in  a  gill  of  hot  water  or  hot  milk,  and  sprinkle  the 
top  layer  of  potatoes  thickly  with  cracker-crumbs  mixed  with  salt 
and  pepper  and  bits  of  butter.  Bake,  covered,  for  half  an  hour. 
Uncover  and  brown. 

Potato  omelet 

Make  an  omelet  in  the  usual  way ;  have  ready  by  the  time  it  is 
done,  and  lay  upon  it,  this  mixture,  then  fold  down : 

Cook  one  small  minced  onion  in  one  tablespoon  ful  of  dripping 
until  yellow,  add  one  cupful  of  cold  boiled  potatoes,  chopped  fine, 
and  cook  until  slightly  colored,  stirring  frequently.  Shake  into  it 
a  little  pepper  and  salt  and  one  teaspoonful  of  finely  minced 
parsley. 

Set  into  the  oven  to  keep  warm  until  the  omelet  is  ready. 

Potato  dumplings  (No.  1) 

Grate  ten  or  twelve  large  raw  potatoes.  Put  the  grated  pulp 
into  a  muslin  bag  and  press  out  the  juice.  Turn  into  a  bowl  and 


476  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

add  one-third  as  much  boiled  potato  that  has  been  run  through  a 
vegetable  press.  Salt  to  taste  and  beat  in  a  raw  egg  until  you 
have  a  smooth,  creamy  paste.  Make  into  dumplings  with  well- 
floured  hands,  and  roll  each  in  flour  to  prevent  them  from  sticking 
together  while  they  are  boiling. 

Have  a  pot  of  water  at  a  hard  boil,  drop  in  the  dumplings  and 
cook  from  ten  to  twelve  minutes.  Test  by  taking  one  out  and 
cutting  in  two  to  see  if  it  is  done  in  the  center.  Take  up  with  a 
skimmer  and  serve  at  once,  as  they  soon  get  heavy. 

Serve  them  with  any  kind  of  roast  meat,  or  alone  with  gravy. 

Potato  dumplings  (No.  2) 

Peel  medium-sized  potatoes  that  have  been  partly  boiled  (not 
quite  soft).  When  cold,  grate ;  to  three  parts  of  the  potatoes  take 
one  part  of  grated  wheat  bread,  and  add  small  squares  of  wheat 
bread  browned  in  butter,  then  crushed  into  crumbs. 

To  each  pint  of  the  above  add  two  eggs,  well-beaten,  two 
ounces  of  melted  butter  and  nutmeg  to  suit  taste.  Mix  all  thor- 
oughly and  form  into  round  dumplings  the  size  of  an  egg,  or 
larger,  as  preferred.  Roll  in  flour  and  boil  in  salted  water  until 
dry  inside,  or  about  fifteen  minutes. 

Serve  with  roast  meats. 

Always  use  mealy  potatoes. 

Potato  balls  ("Kartoffelklosse") 
(A  German  recipe.) 

Peel,  boil  and  mash  potatoes ;  put  aside  to  cool. 

Three  cupfuls  of  potatoes,  one  cupful  of  bread,  two  eggs,  well- 
beaten,  separately;  pepper,  salt  and  nutmeg  to  taste,  and  some 
chopped  parsley  that  has  been  heated  in  butter.  The  bread  should 
be  prepared  as  for  croutons,  crusts  removed,  cut  in  squares, 
browned  in  butter  in  the  oven,  then  crushed.  The  mixture  should 
be  very  stiff.  Mold  into  small  balls  and  drop  into  boiling,  well- 
salted  water;  keep  water  boiling  for  fifteen  minutes,  when  the 
klosse  should  be  about  twice  the  original  size  and  done  to  the  cen- 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  477 

ter.  They  may  be  served  with  bread-crumbs  browned  in  butter, 
placed  on  the  top  of  each  dumpling,  or  with  tomato  sauce.  With 
chopped  meat  filling  the  center  of  the  dumplings  they  can  also  be 
varied.  If  too  moist,  use  flour  or  bread-crumbs  in  molding.  A 
good  cook  has  the  knack  of  dropping  from  the  spoon  without 
molding,  but  this  is  hard  to  do.  The  klosse  should  be  the  size  of 
small  apples  when  finished.  Americans  very  often  use  a  trifle  of 
baking-powder  to  insure  lightness  in  these.  Germans  depend  on 
good  beating. 

SWEET   POTATOES 

Boiled  sweet  potatoes 

Wash  and  cook  in  boiling  water  until  soft.  Set  in  a  moderate 
oven  for  ten  minutes  to  keep  them  from  being  watery. 

Baked  sweet  potatoes 

They  are  seldom  cooked  in  any  other  way  at  the  South,  where 
they  are  native  to  the  soil,  and  at  their  best  estate. 
Wash  and  wipe  and  bake  in  a  good  oven  until  tender. 

Glazed  sweet  potatoes 

Parboil  in  their  skins,  peel  and  lay  in  a  bake-pan.  Cook,  basting 
often  with  butter,  until  they  are  a  golden  brown. 

Scallop  of  sweet  potatoes  and  bacon 

This  is  a  good  "left-over"  when  you  have  a  little  cold  corned 
ham  and  some  cold  boiled  or  baked  sweet  potatoes.  Mince  the 
meat — the  fatter  the  better — and  put  a  layer  in  the  bottom  of  a 
bake-dish.  Cover  with  sweet  potato  dice,  pepper,  and  put  in 
more  bacon.  When  all  the  materials  are  used  up,  cover  with 
crumbs ;  add  enough  milk  to  wet  the  crumbs,  cover  and  bake  half 
an  hour.  Uncover  and  brown. 


478  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Sweet  potatoes  an  gratin 

Parboil  the  potatoes,  peel  and  slice  while  hot.  Butter  a  deep 
dish  well ;  put  in  a  layer  of  potatoes,  sprinkle  with  sugar,  salt,  pep- 
per, and  dot  with  butter ;  then  a  stratum  of  fine  crumbs ;  season 
in  the  same  way,  leaving  out  the  sugar.  The  uppermost  layer 
should  be  of  crumbs  and  well  buttered.  Pour  in  four  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  warm  water  to  generate  steam,  cover  closely  and  bake 
half  an  hour.  Uncover  and  brown. 

This  is  an  especially  nice  dish  for  a  family  dinner,  and  always 
liked  by  children. 

Buttered  sweet  potatoes 

Boil  sweet  potatoes  and  peel  them.  Lay  in  a  deep  dish  and 
upon  each  potato  put  a  teaspoonful  of  butter.  Set  in  the  oven 
and  heat  until  the  butter  sizzles  about  the  edge  of  the  dish.  Then 
send  to  the  table. 

Sweet  potato  croquettes 

Into  two  cupfuls  of  boiled  and  mashed -sweet  potatoes  beat  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  stir  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  until 
smoking  hot.  Now  remove  and  add  a  tablespoonful  of  cream  and 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs.  When  cold,  form  into  croquettes  and  roll 
each  croquette  in  beaten  egg  and  cracker-crumbs.  Arrange  all  on 
a  platter  and  set  in  a  cold  place  for  several  hours  before  frying 
in  deep  cottolene  or  other  fat  to  a  golden  brown. 

Sweet  potato  puff 

Into  two  cupfuls  of  boiled  and  mashed  sweet  potatoes  beat 
three  whipped  eggs,  a  cupful  of  milk,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted 
butter  and  seasoning  to  taste.  Beat  hard  and  bake  in  a  greased 
pudding-dish. 

Sweet  potato  and  chestnut  croquettes 

Boil  and  mash  enough  sweet  potatoes  to  make  two  cupfuls,  and 
enough  Spanish  chestnuts  to  make  one  cupful.  Rub  the  nuts  and 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  479 

potatoes  together  while  hot  and  beat  into  them  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter,  four  teaspoonfuls  of  cream,  two  beaten  eggs,  and  season 
to  taste.  When  cold,  form  into  croquettes,  roll  in  egg  and  cracker- 
crumbs,  and  set  in  a  cold  place  for  an  hour  before  frying  in  deep, 
boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat. 


RICE 

Boiled  rice 

Into  three  pints  of  hot  salted  water,  when  at  a  fast  boil,  throw 
half  a  cupful  of  raw  rice,  previously  washed  and  picked  over. 
Keep  it  at  a  furious  boil  for  twenty  minutes,  when  test  a  grain  to 
see  if  it  is  done.  If  it  is  soft,  drain  away  every  drop  of  water ;  set 
the  uncovered  pot  at  the  back  of  the  range  for  two  minutes  to  dry 
off  the  rice,  and  serve.  Not  a  spoon  should  touch  it  while  cook- 
ing, and  each  grain  should  be  whole  and  apart  from  the  rest. 

This,  the  one  and  only  way  to  boil  rice  properly,  is  also  the 
easiest.  Shake  the  saucepan  up  three  times  while  the  rice  is  in 
cooking,  to  make  sure  it  does  not  clog. 

Pasty  rice  is  as  abhorrent  to  those  who  have  eaten  it  cooked 
according  to  this  recipe  as  sodden,  gluey  potatoes. 

Serve  in  a  hot,  uncovered  dish.  Eat  with  butter,  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  you  will  not  regret  the  tyrant  potato,  should  he  fail  to 
appear. 

Buttered  rice 

Spread  three  cups  of  cold  boiled  rice  upon  a  platter  and  set  in 
the  open  oven  that  every  grain  may  dry.  Meanwhile,  heat  a  little 
butter  in  the  frying-pan  and  fry  a  sliced  onion  in  it.  When  the 
slices  are  browned  remove  them  with  a  perforated  spoon,  and  lay 
the  rice  by  the  spoonful  in  the  pan.  Stir  until  each  grain  is  coated 
with  the  butter ;  turn  the  rice  into  a  heated  colander,  shake  hard, 
and  set  at  the  side  of  the  range  for  five  minutes.  Serve  in  a  deep 
vegetable  dish. 


480  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Eice  croquettes 

Boil  as  directed  in  first  recipe ;  drain,  and  beat  in  two  whipped 
eggs,  half  a  cupful  of  milk  (or  cream  if  you  have  it),  a  little 
butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  a  little  mace,  pepper  and  salt.  Set 
by  until  perfectly  cold,  form  into  croquettes,  roll  in  egg  and  fine 
crumbs,  leave  on  ice  for  an  hour  and  fry  in  boiling  deep  cottolene 
or  other  fat. 

You  can  make  the  croquettes  of  cold  boiled  rice  if  you  have  it, 
but  it  is  hardly  as  good  for  the  purpose  as  the  hot.  The  croquettes 
seldom  have  the  consistency  of  those  made  up  while  the  rice  is 
hot. 

Eice  and  tomato  croquettes 

When  the  rice  has  boiled  ten  minutes  drain  off  the  water  and 
cover  the  rice  with  tomato  juice,  already  heated  and  seasoned 
with  pepper,  salt  and  sugar.  Cook  ten  minutes  more,  or  until 
the  rice  is  tender.  Take  from  the  fire,  add  a  great  spoonful  of 
butter  and  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice;  the  beaten  yolks  of  three 
eggs,  and,  when  you  have  beaten  these  in,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
grated  Parmesan  cheese.  Set  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water  and  stir 
over  the  fire  for  five  minutes.  Turn  out  and  let  it  get  perfectly 
cold.  Make  into  croquettes,  roll  in  egg  and  cracker  crumbs ;  set 
on  ice  for  an  hour  and  fry  in  hot,  deep  cottolene  or  other  fat. 
Drain  and  serve. 

Boiled  rice  with  tomato  sauce 

Boil  in  the  usual  way,  dish,  and  pour  over  it,  loosening  with  a 
fork  that  the  sauce  may  penetrate  to  every  part,  a  generous  cup- 
ful of  rich  tomato  sauce,  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt,  onion  juice 
and  sugar,  and,  finally,  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese. 

Savory  rice 

Prepare  as  in  last  recipe,  but  add  a  small  cupful  of  good  stock 
to  an  equal  quantity  of  tomato  sauce ;  cook  together  for  two  min- 
utes and  pour  over  the  rice. 


DINNER    VEGETABLES  481 

Rice  pudding  as  a  vegetable 

Boil  one  cupful  of  raw  rice  twenty  minutes,  or  until  soft,  but 
not  broken.  Beat  four  eggs  light,  and  when  you  have  stirred  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter  into  the  rice  add  these  and  season  with 
pepper  and  salt.  Stir  in,  gradually,  a  scant  quart  of  milk;  beat 
all  well  for  one  minute,  turn  into  a  buttered  pudding-dish  and 
bake,  covered,  half  an  hour;  then  brown. 

It  should  be  as  light  as  a  souffle,  and  must  be  eaten  at  once.  A 
pleasing  accompaniment  to  roast  poultry  of  any  kind. 

Savory  rice  pudding 

Boil  and  drain  a  cupful  of  rice.  Stir  into  it,  while  hot,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  and  a  cupful  of  hot  milk  with  which  has  been 
mixed  a  teaspoonful  of  corn-starch  dissolved  in  cold  water.  Add 
a  well-beaten  egg,  salt  and  pepper,  and  spread  upon  a  platter  to 
cool.  Meanwhile  make  ready  two  cupfuls  of  chopped  meat  of 
almost  any  kind — poultry,  veal,  lamb,  mutton,  beef,  giblets,  liver 
— or  a  mixture  of  several — whatever  you  have  on  hand.  Chop 
half  a  can  of  mushrooms  and  work  in;  season  highly  with  pap- 
rika, kitchen  bouquet  and  onion  juice.  Some  even  put  in  a  little 
curry.  Moisten  slightly  with  gravy  and  when  the  rice  has  cooled 
mix  all  well  together.  Butter  a  cake  mold  lavishly,  put  the  pud- 
ding into  it ;  fit  on  a  close  top  and  set  in  a  pot  of  boiling  water. 
Cook  steadily  for  at  least  two  hours.  Dip  the  mold  into  ice- 
water  to  loosen  the  pudding  from  the  sides,  and  turn  out  upon  a 
hot  platter. 

Send  tomato  sauce,  mixed  with  grated  cheese,  around  with  it, 
or  any  gravy  you  may  chance  to  have  left  over. 

Molded  rice  (No.  1) 

Boil  a  cupful  of  raw  rice  ten  minutes ;  drain  and  pour  over  it, 
in  place  of  the  water,  two  cupfuls  of  chicken  gravy  or  stock 
made  from  chicken,  duck  or  turkey  bones,  seasoned  well  with 
salt,  pepper  and  onion  juice.  Set  in  boiling  water  uncovered, 


482  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

and  cook  gently  until  quite  dry.  Turn  into  a  bowl  wet  with  hot 
water,  press  down  firmly  and  reverse  the  bowl  upon  a  hot  platter. 
Cover  the  mound  with  grated  cheese,  brush  all  over  with  beaten 
white  of  egg,  sift  grated  cheese  upon  the  egg,  and  set  upon  the 
top  grating  of  your  oven  to  color  slightly. 

Molded  rice  (No.  2) 

Boil  a  cupful  of  rice  in  plenty  of  hot  salted  water  until  soft. 
Drain  and  dry  off.  Stir  into  it  a  great  spoonful  of  butter,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  onion  juice  and  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  with 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Stir  over  the  fire  in  a  bowl  set  in  boil- 
ing water  for  two  minutes,  using  a  fork  that  you  may  not  break 
the  rice  to  pieces.  Turn  into  a  round-bottomed  bowl  wet  with 
cold  water,  and  press  down  hard.  Reverse  the  bowl  upon  a  fire- 
proof platter,  cover  the  molded  rice  thickly  with  a  meringue 
made  of  the  whites  of  the  eggs  beaten  stiff,  and  set  upon  the  top 
grating  of  the  oven  for  three  minutes  to  form. 

Eat  with  drawn  butter. 

Spanish  rice  (very  nice) 

Boil  one  cupful  of  rice  until  tender  in  plenty  of  boiling  water, 
salted ;  drain  and  dry  off.  Chop  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fat  salt 
pork,  and  fry  in  a  pan.  When  it  hisses  put  into  the  pan  two 
medium-sized  onions,  also  minced.  Chop  two  green  sweet  pep- 
pers (seeded,  of  course),  and  mix  with  the  rice,  then  the  pork 
and  onions,  and  enough  tomato  sauce  to  moisten  the  mixture  well. 
Butter  a  bake-dish,  add  salt  and  pepper,  if  needed,  to  the  rice, 
and  put  into  the  dish.  Coat  thickly  with  fine  crumbs  and  bake, 
covered,  for  twenty  minutes ;  then  brown. 

Bice  timbales 

Pack  hot  boiled  rice  in  slightly  buttered  timbaie  molds;  let 
them  stand  in  hot  water  for  ten  minutes ;  run  a  pointed  knife 
around  the  sides;  turn  from  the  molds  and  serve  as  a  garnish 
for  curried  meats  or  boiled  fowl. 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  483 


SALSIFY,    OR    OYSTER-PLANT 

Stewed  salsify 

Scrape  the  roots,  throwing  them  at  once  into  cold  water,  that 
they  may  not  blacken.  Cut  into  inch  lengths  and  put  over  the 
fire  in  boiling  salted  water.  Stew  until  tender.  Drain  off  the 
water  and  pour  upon  the  salsify  in  the  saucepan  a  cup  of  hot  milk. 
After  it  has  simmered  five  minutes  add  a  tablespoonful  of  butter 
and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cracker  dust;  season  to  taste  and 
serve. 

Mock  fried  oysters 

Wash,  trim  and  cook  a  bunch  of  oyster-plant  (or  salsify)  in 
boiling  salted  water  until  tender.  Drain  and  scrape  ojff  the  skin. 
Mash  well,  and  if  stringy  rub  through  a  colander. 

To  one  pint  of  the  mashed  salsify  add  one  teaspoonful  of  flour, 
one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  well-beaten  egg,  and  salt  and 
pepper  to  season  highly.  Take  up  a  small  spoonful  and  shape  it 
into  an  oval  about  the  size  of  a  large  oyster ;  dip  each  lightly  in 
flour  or  very  fine  cracker-crumbs,  and  brown  on  each  side  in  hot 
butter. 

Salsify  fritters 

Scrape  the  salsify  and  grate  it  fine.  If  you  have  a  machine  for 
grinding  vegetables,  use  that,  as  the  process  of  grinding  is  so 
rapid  that  there  is  not  time  for  the  salsify  to  discolor  before  it  is 
prepared.  Have  made  a  batter  of  two  beaten  eggs,  a  gill  of  milk, 
and  salt  to  taste.  Beat  hard,  and  whip  the  grated  salsify  into 
this.  Drop  by  the  spoonful  into  deep,  boiling  cottolene  or  other 
fat.  .When  the  fritters  are  of  the  right  shade  of  brown,  drain 
them  quickly  in  a  hot  colander  to  free  them  of  superfluous  grease. 
Serve  very  hot. 

Scalloped  salsify 

Wash  and  trim,  but  do  not  scrape  fine  roots  of  salsify.  Boil 
in  salted  water  until  tender.  Drain,  scrape,  clean  and  cut  into 


484  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

inch  lengths.  Pack  into  a  buttered  bake-dish,  alternately  with 
thick  white  drawn  butter,  well  seasoned,  and  fine  bread-crumbs, 
seasoned  and  buttered.  The  top  layer  should  be  crumbs  wet  with 
cream.  Cover  closely  and  bake  half  an  hour ;  then  brown  deli- 
cately. 

Not  a  bad  imitation  of  scalloped  oysters. 


SPINACH 

"SPINACH  is  one  of  our  most  valuable  vegetables.  It  contains 
salts  and  is  slightly  laxative.  In  order  to  retain  all  the  nutritive 
value  and  the  salts  in  the  spinach  it  is  best  to  cook  in  a  steamer. 
It  should  be  cooked  just  long  enough  to  be  tender,  which  is  from 
ten  to  fifteen  minutes.  Spinach,  if  cooked  too  long,  will  lose 
its  flavor  and  color." 

Thus  writes  an  able  authority  upon  dietetics.  In  three  sen- 
tences we  have  here  condensed  the  cardinal  rules  for  preparing 
this  queenly  esculent  for  the  use  of  the  human  animal.  Opposed 
to  one  clause  of  the  summary  we  have  the  story  of  a  noted  epicure 
who  found  spinach  so  much  better  when  warmed  up  for  the  thir- 
teenth time  that  he  ordered  his  cook  to  cook  it  thirteen  times  on 
the  first  day  of  serving. 

Boiled  spinach,  plain 

Pick  over  the  spinach,  rejecting  all  yellow  or  dried  leaves. 
Wash  in  four  waters,  letting  it  soak  in  the  last  cold  bath  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour.  Put  into  a  large  pot  over  the  fire  with  just 
enough  cold  water  to  cover  it.  Cook  for  twenty  minutes,  or  un- 
til tender.  Drain  in  a  colander,  then  turn  into  a  wooden  chop- 
ping-bowl  and  chop  very,  very  fine.  Return  the  spinach  to  the 
saucepan,  stir  into  it  a  great  spoonful  of  butter,  and  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste.  Mound  the  spinach  on  a  hot  platter,  and  garnish 
with  slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs. 


DINNER    VEGETABLES  485 

Spinach  a  la  creme 

Pick  over  and  wash  the  spinach  as  in  the  last  recipe.  After 
soaking  in  the  fourth  water,  put  the  leaves,  with  the  moisture 
still  clinging  to  them,  into  a  large  pot,  and  cover  closely.  The 
moisture  on  the  leaves  and  the  juice  of  the  vegetables  will  form 
enough  liquor  to  prevent  scorching.  Cook  for  twenty  minutes, 
stirring  well  several  times  during  the  process.  Sprinkle  with 
salt  and  turn  into  a  colander  to  drain.  Press  out  the  liquid,  turn 
the  spinach  into  a  chopping-bowl  and  chop  as  fine  as  possible. 
Cook  together  in  a  saucepan  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  two 
of  butter,  and,  when  they  are  blended,  pour  the  spinach  upon 
them.  Season  and  cook  for  several  minutes,  stirring  constantly. 
Pour  upon  the  spinach  a  small  cupful  of  cream  in  which  a  pinch 
of  soda  has  been  dissolved,  and  cook  three  minutes  longer,  still 
stirring.  Now  add  pepper  and  salt  to  taste  and  a  pinch  of  nut- 
meg, and  beat  hard  for  three  minutes.  Serve  smoking-hot,  gar- 
nished with  small  triangles  of  toast. 

Spinach  puff 

Boil  as  in  the  former  recipe,  chop  "exceeding  small,"  and  beat 
in  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  salt,  pepper  and  a  pinch  of 
nutmeg.  Set  aside  until  cool,  then  stir  in  a  gill  of  cream,  the 
whipped  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  the  stiffened  whites  of  three. 
Beat  hard  and  turn  into  a  deep,  greased  pudding-dish.  Bake 
for  twenty  minutes,  and  serve  at  once. 

Spinach  souffle 

Boil  the  spinach  and  chop  fine.  Add  the  beaten  yolks  of  two 
eggs,  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Set  this  mixture  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  beat  into  it  a  half- 
gill  of  cream  and  the  frothed  whites  of  three  eggs.  Turn  into 
a  buttered  pudding-dish,  and  bake  quickly  in  a  hot  oven  to  a  light 
brown.  Serve  as  soon  as  it  is  removed  from  the  oven. 


486  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Spinach  p&tes 

Boil  the  spinach,  press  out  every  drop  of  water  and  chop  fine. 
Cook  together  in  a  saucepan  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  two 
of  flour.  Add  the  spinach  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste ;  cook  for 
five  minutes.  Butter  the  insides  of  muffin-tins  or  pate-pans,  and 
press  the  spinach  hard  into  these.  Set  in  the  oven  to  keep  hot 
while  you  make  a  white  sauce.  Carefully  turn  out  the  forms  of 
spinach  on  a  hot  platter,  lay  a  slice  of  hard-boiled  egg  on  the  top 
of  each  form  and  pour  the  white  sauce  around  it. 


SQUASH 

THE  summer  squash  differs  from  the  winter  variety  in  having 
a  tender  shell  and  in  being  very  juicy.  Both  may  be  cooked  in 
a  variety  of  ways,  and  form  many  appetizing  dishes.  In  open- 
ing the  winter  squash  it  is  often  necessary  to  exert  great  strength 
to  break  through  the  outer  rind — some  housekeepers  using  a 
small  saw  for  the  purpose.  The  summer  vegetable  may  be 
easily  peeled  or  sliced  with  an  ordinary  case-knife. 

Boiled  squash 

Wash  two  summer  squashes,  pare  them,  and  cut  into  pieces 
about  an  inch  square.  Put  them  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  of 
boiling  water  and  boil  steadily  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Drain 
in  a  colander,  pressing  hard  to  extract  the  water,  turn  into  a 
wooden  bowl  and  mash  with  a  potato-beater  until  free  from 
lumps.  Now  beat  in  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter;  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste.  Return  to  the  fire  just  long  enough  to  get 
very  hot,  stirring  all  the  time.  Serve  in  a  deep  vegetable  dish. 

Baked  squash 

Peel,  boil  and  mash  two  small  squashes.  When  cold,  beat  in 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  two  whipped  eggs,  a  gill  of 
cream  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Turn  into  a  greased  bake- 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  487 

dish,  sprinkle  with  bread-crumbs  and  bake  for  a  half-hour.     A 
good  way  to  use  squash  left  over  from  yesterday. 

Creamed  squash 

Peel  two  summer  squashes  and  cut  into  dice  of  uniform  size. 
Boil  for  fifteen  minutes  in  salted  water,  or  until  tender,  but  not 
broken.  Drain  carefully  in  a  colander  and  keep  hot  while  you 
cook  together  two  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  butter  and  the  same 
quantity  of  flour  until  they  bubble ;  then  pour  upon  them  a  cupful 
and  a  half  of  sweet  milk.  Stir  until  smooth ;  turn  in  the  squash 
dice,  season  liberally  with  salt  and  white  pepper,  and  serve. 

Scalloped  squash 

Peel,  wash  and  boil  three  summer  squashes  according  to  direc- 
tions given  in  the  recipe  for  boiled  squash.  Beat  two  eggs  light, 
and  whip  into  them  a  small  cupful  of  rich  sweet  milk,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  melted  butter.  Beat  this  mixture  into  the  mashed 
squash,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  turn  all  into  a  greased 
pudding-dish.  Sprinkle  with  bread-crumbs  and  bits  of  butter, 
and  bake. 

Squash  pancakes 

Boil  and  mash  two  squashes,  and  when  cold  beat  into  them  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
a  pint  of  milk,  two  eggs  and  a  cupful  of  flour  in  which  has  been 
sifted  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder.  Beat  hard  for  five  min- 
utes. Have  a  soapstone  griddle  heated,  and  drop  the  mixture  by 
the  spoonful  on  this.  If  the  cakes  are  too  stiff,  add  a  little  more 
milk.  Serve  hot  with  butter.  These  are  good  with  broiled  steaks 
or  chops. 

Squash  fritters 

Peel  and  slice  the  squash,  and  boil  in  salted  water  for  a  little 
over  five  minutes.  Carefully  remove  the  slices  and  drop  into  iced 
water.  When  cold,  drain  in  a  colander  and  pat  dry  between  the 
folds  of  a  dish-towel.  Dip  each  slice  in  beaten  egg,  then  in 


488  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

cracker  crumbs,  and  when  all  are  thoroughly  coated  set  in  a  cold 
place  for  an  hour.  Have  ready  a  kettle  of  boiling  dripping; 
drop  the  squash  slices  .carefully  into  this  and  fry  to  a  golden 
brown.  Drain  in  a  heated  colander,  sprinkle  with  pepper  and 
salt,  and  serve. 

TOMATOES 

THE  nineteenth  century  was  a  third  gone  before  the  world  on 
this  side  of  the  sea  began  to  appreciate  the  beneficent  qualities  of 
what  our  foremothers  used  to  call  "love  apples."  There  is  no 
other  vegetable  that  is  of  more  value  as  a  liver  regulator  and 
blood-cooler  than  the  tomato.  The  small  quantity  of  calomel  it 
contains  acts  as  a  corrective  of  biliousness,  and  stimulates  all  the 
secretions  of  the  body  to  activity.  Eaten  raw,  it  is  cooling  and 
delicious,  and  it  may  be  cooked  in  so  many  and  varied  forms 
that  one  does  not  soon  weary  of  it. 

In  the  average  home  it  appears  as  a  salad,  in  soup,  stewed,  and 
perhaps  baked  or  scalloped.  When  it  has  been  thus  served  many 
housekeepers  consider  that  they  have  exhausted  its  capabilities. 
On  the  contrary,  they  have  hardly  touched  upon  its  possibilities. 

The  increasing  familiarity  with  sauces  as  the  cook's  potent  aids 
in  converting  old  dishes  into  new,  has  made  tomato  sauce  popular 
as  an  accompaniment  of  certain  compounds  of  macaroni,  but 
even  those  who  use  the  sauce  in  this  manner  do  not  all  know 
how  admirable  it  is  served  with  boiled  or  baked  fish,  or  with 
roast  mutton,  or  as  a  vehicle  for  shrimps,  or  as  a  zest  for  eggs. 
Apart  from  this,  the  tomato,  not  made  into  a  sauce,  but  employed 
either  fresh  or  canned,  may  come  to  the  table  in  a  variety  of 
easily-prepared  and  savory  combinations  that  will  appeal  to  the 
family  caterer  as  being  the  new  and  inexpensive  dishes  she  is 
always  seeking. 

Raw  tomatoes 

Never  scald  them.  Pare  and  strip  off  the  skins.  Set  on  ice 
until  you  are  ready  to  serve.  Cut  up  quickly,  lay  within  a  chilled 
bowl  and  season,  as  you  serve,  with  French  dressing. 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  489 

Raw  tomatoes  and  cucumbers 

Cut  off  the  tops  of  large,  firm  tomatoes  and  carefully  remove 
most  of  the  pulp.  Keep  pulp  and  tomatoes  in  the  refrigerator 
while  you  peel  and  cut  into  small  dice  ice-cold  cucumbers.  Mix 
the  cucumber  dice  with  the  tomato  pulp,  fill  the  tomato  shells,  set 
them  on  crisp  lettuce  leaves  arid  pour  a  great  spoonful  of  mayon- 
naise dressing  over  each. 

Creamed  tomatoes 

Cut  firm  tomatoes  into  thick  slices  and  fry  them  until  tender  in 
a  couple  of  "Spoonfuls  of  butter.  Have  ready  a  white  sauce  made 
by  cooking  together  a  tablespoonful,  each,  of  butter  and  flour  to 
the  bubbling  point,  and  then  pouring  upon  them  a  half-pint  of 
milk — or,  better  still,  a  half-pint  of  mingled  milk  and  cream. 
Cook,  stirring  constantly,  until  the  sauce  thickens,  dish  the  to- 
matoes and  turn  the  sauce  upon  them,  after  seasoning  them  suit- 
ably with  pepper  and  salt. 

Stewed  tomatoes 

Peel,  slice  and  put  a  quart  of  tomatoes  over  the  fire  in  a  nickel- 
steel-plated  or  agate  saucepan — never  in  tin.  Stew  fast  twenty 
minutes.  Season  with  a  lump  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  onion  juice.  Stew  five  minutes  longer,  and  serve. 

Some  cooks  substitute  fine  dry  crumbs  for  the  flour.  Unless 
some  thickening  is  used,  the  tomatoes  will  be  watery  and  thin. 

Raw  tomatoes  and  whipped  cream 

Pare  large,  smooth  tomatoes  carefully,  and  set  on  ice  until 
chilled  to  the  heart.  Cut  each  in  half  when  ready  to  serve, 
sprinkle  lightly  with  salt  and  paprika,  and  heap  with  whipped 
cream. 

A  welcome  entree  in  summer.     Send  around  heated  and  but- 


490  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

tered  crackers  and  cream  cheese  with  them,  or  thin  slices  of  but- 
tered graham  bread. 

Tomato  croquettes 

These  can  be  made  either  of  fresh  or  canned  tomatoes.  Rub 
through  a  colander  half  the  contents  of  a  can  of  tomatoes  into  a 
saucepan  with  a  thin  slice  of  onion,  salt,  pepper,  two  or  three 
cloves,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar.  Cook  for  fifteen  min- 
utes, thicken  with  corn-starch — four  teaspoonfuls  of  it  rubbed 
to  a  cream  with  a  generous  lump  of  butter.  Let  it  boil  up  and 
add  one  egg.  Pour  the  mixture  out  to  cool.  When  cool,  form 
into  croquettes,  and  dip  them,  first,  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  fine 
crumbs;  set  on  ice  for  two  hours  before  frying  in  deep,  boiling 
cottolene  or  other  fat. 

Stuffed  tomatoes  (No.  1) 

Cut  the  tops  from  large,  firm  tomatoes,  and  with  a  small  spoon 
scoop  out  the  insides.  To  half  of  this  pulp,  chopped,  add  as 
much  minced  boiled  ham  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  bread-crumbs, 
Season  to  taste  and  fill  the  tomatoes  with  this  mixture.  Set  in  a 
baking-pan  and  bake  for  twenty  minutes,  covered ;  then  brown. 

Stuffed  tomatoes  (No.  2) 

Cut  the  tops  from  large  tomatoes  and  scrape  out  the  pulp.  Mix 
with  this  one  part  of  bread-crumbs  to  two  parts  of  minced  boiled 
ham.  Fill  the  tomato  shells  with  this  mixture,  put  a  bit  of  but- 
ter upon  the  top  of  each,  and  set,  side  by  side,  in  a  bake-pan. 
Pour  a  cupful  of  soup  stock  over  and  around  the  tomatoes,  and 
bake  until  tender. 

Scalloped  tomatoes 

Grease  a  pudding-dish  and  put  in  the  bottom  of  it  a  layer  of 
peeled  and  sliced  tomatoes.  Cover  with  a  layer  of  salted  and 
peppered  crumbs,  sprinkle  with  bits  of  butter  and  a  little  sugar. 
Now  put  in  another  stratum  of  tomatoes  and  more  crumbs. 
When  the  dish  is  full  pour  over  all  a  cupful  of  well-seasoned 
soup  stock,  sprinkle  the  top  with  crumbs,  and  bake,  covered, 
for  fifteen  minutes.  Uncover  and  brown. 


DINNER    VEGETABLES  491 

Tomatoes  and  corn 

Put  a  cupful,  each,  of  stewed  tomatoes  and  boiled  corn  over 
the  fire  together,  bring  to  a  boil,  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  white 
sugar  and,  if  you  like,  a  dash  of  onion  juice;  cook  one  minute 
longer  and  serve. 

A  good  way  of  using  yesterday's  left-overs  of  these  vegetables. 

Tomato  fritters 

Make  a  batter  of  a  cupful  of  flour,  a  cupful  of  water,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  the  white  of  an  egg. 
The  water  should  be  just  warm  enough  to  melt  the  butter,  but 
not  hot.  Stir  the  two  into  the  sifted  and  salted  flour,  mixing 
carefully,  and,  lastly,  beat  in  the  whipped  white  of  an  egg.  Into 
the  batter  thus  made  dip  rather  thick  slices  of  peeled  tomatoes, 
and  fry  in  deep  hot  fat  to  a  light,  delicate  brown.  The  tomatoes 
may  be  sprinkled  with  salt  and  pepper  before  dipping  them  in 
batter,  or  the  fritters  may  be  seasoned  after  they  are  cooked. 

Tomatoes  stuffed  with  meat 

Select  large,  firm  tomatoes,  cut  off  the  tops  and  scoop  out  the 
inside  pulp.  Do  not  peel.  Chop  fine  a  cupful  of  cold  meat — it 
may  be  fowl,  tongue  or  ham,  or  even  lamb,  mutton  or  beef,  if  the 
latter  are  well  seasoned.  With  the  meat  put  a  half  cupful  of  fine 
bread-crumbs,  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  salt,  pepper,  parsley 
and  onion  juice.  The  quantity  of  these  to  be  used  must  be  de- 
termined by  the  amount  of  seasoning  there  is  already  in  the  meat. 
After  sprinkling  the  inside  of  the  tomato  shells  with  a  very  little 
salt  and  pepper  fill  them  with  the  mixture  of  meat,  crumbs,  etc. 
If  this  seems  too  dry  it  may  be  moistened  with  a  small  quantity 
of  gravy  or  soup  stock,  or  even  with  milk  or  cream.  Arrange 
the  tomatoes  in  a  pudding-dish,  replace  the  tops,  lay  a  cover  over 
them  and  bake  half  an  hour.  Serve  in  the  dish  in  which  they 
were  cooked. 


492  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Tomatoes  stuffed  with  corn 

Prepare  the  tomatoes  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  place  them  in 
the  bake-dish  and  fill  them  with  a  mixture  of  a  cupful  of  grated 
green  corn,  half  a  cupful  of  bread-crumbs,  a  tablespoonful,  each, 
of  milk  and  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  white  sugar,  and  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste. 

Tomatoes  stuffed  with  rice 

Fill  tomato  shells  prepared  as  above  directed  with  cold  boiled 
rice,  to  which  have  been  added  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  but- 
ter, half  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  salt  and  paprika.  When 
the  shells  are  filled  strew  the  contents  of  each  thickly  with  grated 
cheese  before  laying  on  the  tops.  Bake,  covered,  half  an  hour. 

Tomatoes  stuffed  with  macaroni 

Prepare  as  in  last  recipe,  substituting  cold,  boiled  macaroni, 
chopped,  for  the  rice,  and  mixing  cheese  with  the  filling,  besides 
strewing  it  on  the  top. 

Tomatoes  a  la  crime 

Cut  unpeeled  tomatoes  into  thick  slices.  Put  into  a  frying- 
pan  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  and  fry  the  tomatoes  for  three 
minutes  in  this,  or  until  they  are  tender.  Remove  carefully  and 
keep  hot  on  a  platter  set  in  an  open  oven.  Into  the  butter  in  the 
pan  stir  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  cook  until  thoroughly  blend- 
ed ;  then  pour  in  gradually  a  half-pint  of  rich  milk  in  which  a 
pinch  of  soda  has  been  dissolved.  Stir  all  to  a  smooth  sauce, 
season  and  pour  over  the  fried  tomatoes. 


Tomatoes  and  poached  eggs 

Cook  tomatoes  by  either  of  the  preceding  receipes,  or  stew  them 
until  tender.  If  you  do  the  latter,  strain  off  the  thin,  watery 
liquor  that  comes  from  them  in  cooking,  and  set  it  aside  for 
sauces  or  for  seasoning.  Make  of  the  thick  portion  of  the  to- 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  493 

mato  a  layer  in  the  bottom  of  a  platter,  seasoning  to  taste  with 
pepper  and  salt,  and,  if  desired,  with  a  few  drops  of  onion  juice ; 
make  all  very  hot  and  lay  on  the  bed  thus  prepared  carefully 
poached  eggs.  If  fried  eggs  are  preferred,  they  may  be  substi- 
tuted. Dust  them  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper  and  serve  at  once. 

Tomato  omelet 

Peel  and  chop  four  tomatoes.  Soak  a  cupful  of  bread-crumbs  in 
a  cup  of  milk  and  stir  them  into  five  beaten  eggs.  Add  the 
chopped  tomatoes,  season  to  taste  and  turn  into  a  frying-pan  in 
which  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  have  been  melted.  Cook  un- 
til set,  turn  upon  a  hot  platter,  pour  tomato  sauce  about  the  ome- 
let, and  send  at  once  to  the  table. 

Curried  tomatoes 

Put  into  a  frying-pan  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter  and 
half  a  small  onion,  grated.  Cook  until  the  latter  begins  to  brown 
— about  two  minutes — and  stir  in  a  scant  teaspoonful  of  curry 
powder.  In  this  fry  thick  slices  of  tomato  until  tender,  sprinkle 
with  salt  and  serve. 

Another  method  of  preparing  curried  tomatoes  is  to  cook  them 
by  the  recipe  given  for  creamed  tomatoes,  adding  a  teaspoonful 
of  curry  powder  to  the  cream  sauce  and  pouring  this  over  the 
fried  tomatoes. 

Curried  green  tomatoes 

Cut  large  green  tomatoes  into  very  thick  slices.  Melt  in  a 
frying-pan  three  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  fry  in  this  a  small 
onion,  sliced.  At  the  end  of  two  or  three  minutes  stir  into  the 
melted  butter  a  teaspoonful  of  curry  powder.  Lay  the  tomatoes 
in  this  mixture  and  fry  them  on  both  sides.  When  done,  drain, 
sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve. 


494  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 


TURNIPS 

Mashed  turnips 

Peel,  lay  in  cold  water  for  an  hour ;  boil  tender  in  hot,  salted 
water;  throw  this  off  and  fill  up  the  pot  with  boiling  water, 
slightly  salted.  Cook  five  minutes  in  this,  drain  well  and  rub 
through  a  colander  or  vegetable-press.  Beat  in  a  lump  of  butter 
rolled  in  a  little  flour,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste ;  return  to  the  sauce- 
pan and  cook  one  minute,  stirring  all  the  time. 

Turnips  boiled,  plain 

Pare  and  quarter.  Cook  tender  in  two  waters ;  drain,  dish ; 
pour  a  little  melted  butter,  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  over 
them,  and  serve  hot. 

Young  turnips  stewed  with  cream 

Pare,  lay  in  cold  water  one  hour ;  cook  tender  in  two  waters ; 
drain  and  cover  with  hot  cream  (heated  with  a  pinch  of  soda)  or 
hot  milk,  if  you  have  no  cream.  Simmer  gently  for  five  minutes ; 
stir  in  a  white  roux  made  by  cooking  together  a  tablespoon ful  of 
butter  and  one  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Young  turnips  with  white  sauce 

Peel,  lay  in  cold  water  for  an  hour;  boil  for  ten  minutes  in 
fresh  water,  cover  with  boiling,  slightly  salted  water,  and  cook 
tender.  Drain,  dish,  season  and  pour  over  them  a  good  white 
sauce  of  drawn  butter. 

Fried  turnips 

Peel  and  slice  young  turnips,  dropping  them  into  cold  water  as 
you  do  so.  Turn  into  a  pot  of  boiling  water,  and  cook  for  twenty 
minutes.  Drain  carefully,  so  as  not  to  break  the  slices.  When 
cold,  dip  each  slice  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  salted  cracker  dust,  and 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  495 

spread  all  upon  a  platter.     Let  them  stand  for  an  hour  and  fry  in 
deep,  boiling  fat  to  a  golden  brown. 

Turnips  and  carrots  sautes 

Peel  and  cut  into  dice  of  uniform  size  enough  cold  boiled 
turnips  and  carrots  to  make  a  cupful  of  each.  Mix  and  sprinkle 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Melt  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a  fry- 
ing-pan and  turn  the  vegetable  dice  into  this.  Toss  and  turn  in 
the  hissing  butter  for  five  or  ten  minutes ;  drain  in  a  hot  colander 
and  dish. 

Kohlrabi  turnips 

Separate  the  turnip  of  the  vegetable  from  the  leaves  that  sur- 
round it  and  wash  thoroughly.  Cut  into  quarters  and  boil  for 
twenty  minutes  in  salted  water.  Drain ;  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  serve  hot  with  melted  butter. 

Kohlrabi  with  leaves 

Remove  the  outer  leaves  from  the  swelled  stalk,  or  turnip ; 
wash  thoroughly  and  throw  into  cold  water.  Drain  both  and 
put  them  on  to  boil  in  separate  vessels  of  salted  water.  When 
the  turnips  have  cooked  for  ten  minutes,  drain  and  pour  over 
them  fresh  boiling  water,  to  which  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  has 
been  added.  Boil  for  ten  minutes  longer;  drain,  scrape  and 
slice.  Dip  the  slices,  one  by  one,  in  melted  butter  and  -lay  about 
the  edge  of  a  hot  platter.  Drain  the  leaves  which  have  been 
cooked  tender,  turn  into  a  chopping-bowl  and  chop  very  fine. 
Return  to  the  fire  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter,  pepper  and 
salt  to  taste.  Beat  to  a  smoking  mass,  and  heap  in  the  center 
of  the  heated  platter,  about  the  edge  of  which  you  have  laid  the 
sliced  vegetable. 


496  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 


A    WORD    ABOUT    NUTS 

NUTS  of  all  kinds  are  gaining  in  favor  as  articles  of  diet,  and 
are  at  their  best  in  the  autumn  and  winter.  They  may  be  bought, 
shelled  and  packed  in  boxes,  so  that  they  are  ready  for  imme- 
diate use.  The  housekeeper  of  moderate  means,  with  an  abun- 
dance of  time  at  her  disposal,  will  find  that  it  is  cheaper  to  buy 
the  nuts  in  their  shells  and  crack  them  herself.  If  she  is  so  for- 
tunate as  to  be  able  to  despise  the  petty  economies  she  will  re- 
joice in  the  prepared  nuts.  They  will  save  her  much  tedious 
labor. 

If  Spanish  chestnuts  are  not  to  be  procured  when  wanted,  large 
domestic  chestnuts  may  be  boiled  and  used  in  their  stead. 

Chestnut  croquettes 

Boil  a  quart  of  Spanish  chestnuts  in  salted  water.  While  still 
hot,  remove  the  shells  and  skins  and  rub  the  nuts  through  a 
colander.  With  a  wooden  spoon  work  to  a  smooth  paste,  add- 
ing, as  you  do  so,  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt, 
a  dash  of  paprika,  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  a 
handful  of  fine  bread-crumbs,  and  the  unbeaten  yolk  of  an  egg. 
Put  the  paste  in  a  double  boiler  over  the  fire  and  heat  through. 
With  floured  hands  form  into  croquettes,  dip  in  beaten  egg,  then 
in  cracker  dust,  and  lay  on  a  platter  in  the  refrigerator  for  two 
hours.  Fry  in  deep,  boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat;  drain  in  a 
colander,  and  serve  very  hot. 

English  walnut  croquettes 

Crack,  extract  the  kernels,  blanch  by  pouring  boiling  water 
over  them,  stripping  off  the  loosened  skins  and  dropping  into 
cold  water.  Leave  there  for  ten  minutes ;  take  out,  dry  between 
two  soft  towels  and,  when  crisp  and  perfectly  dry,  proceed  as 
with  chestnuts  in  last  recipe. 


DINNER   VEGETABLES  497 

Peanut  stuffing  for  roast  duck 

Prepare  the  ducks  for  roasting  and  make  a  stuffing  of  bread- 
crumbs seasoned  with  butter,  pepper  and  salt.  Chop  a  cupful  of 
roasted  and  shelled  peanuts  to  a  powder  and  rub  them  into  the 
bread-crumbs.  Stuff  the  ducks  with  this  mixture  and  roast,  bast- 
ing frequently. 

Parsnips 

Boil  parsnips  in  slightly-salted  water  until  tender.  Drain  and 
scrape.  Slice  them  from  end  to  end  and  put  into  a  frying  pan 
with  a  little  melted  butter.  Cook  until  very  hot,  sprinkle  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  minced  parsley,  and  send  to  the  table. 


EVEN-THREADED  LIVING 

"COME  what  may,  appearances  must  be  kept  up!"  wrote  a 
venerable  gentlewoman  to  her  daughter,  with  whom  life  had 
grown  suddenly  hard  by  reason  of  her  husband's  pecuniary  losses. 
"Show  a  brave  front  to  the  world  although  there  may  be  an 
empty  purse  and  an  empty  larder  behind  it.  Noblesse  oblige!" 

The  motto  is  grand — sometimes  sublime. 

There  is  an  heroic  side  to  the  question,  of  which  I  shall  treat 
presently. 

The  ignoble  side,  and  that  which  forms  the  basis  of  most 
treatises  on  this  subject,  crops  up  when  appearances  are  all  in  all, 
and  make  the  life  a  continual  lie,  like  an  embroidered  silk  stock- 
ing drawn  over  an  unwashed  foot. 

One  of  my  childish  recollections  is  of  a  rich  woman,  whose 
"pair  of  parlors,"  as  she  called  them,  were  richly  carpeted,  cur- 
tained and  furnished,  as  was  also  a  spacious  dining-room  on  the 
same  floor.  When  there  was  no  company  the  family  sat  in  a 
back  room  adjoining  the  kitchen.  The  worthy  woman,  visiting 
a  sister-housewife,  was  scandalized  at  learning  that  she,  her  hus- 
band and  six  children  actually  used  the  parlors  "every  day  and 
Sunday,  too,"  and  ate  habitually  in  a  dining-room  "where  there 
was  an  elegant  Brussels  carpet  on  the  floor." 

"My  dear  Mrs.  Blank !"  cried  the  wealthy  economist,  "do  you 
expect  to  have  all  this  and  heaven,  too?" 

"I  expect  to  enjoy  heaven  the  more  for  having  made  the  best  of 
the  Father's  gifts  to  me  here,"  answered  the  matron  of  advanced 
ideas. 

Ideas,  which  I  record  with  devout  gratification,  are  fast  rele- 
gating to  a  dusty  and  dishonored  past,  the  "best  room"  of  farm- 
house and  town  mansion  never  opened  except  for  visitors.  With 

498 


EVEN-THREADED    LIVING  499 

it  is  going  the  basement  sitting-room,  "low"  in  every  sense  of  the 
word,  which  used  to  be  thought  good  enough  for  the  family.  Ex- 
pensive furniture,  kept  with  real  china  and  solid  silver  for  "occa- 
sions"— that  is,  when  appearances  must  be  kept  up  before  com- 
parative strangers  and  acquaintances  for  whom,  taken  as  in- 
dividuals, the  appearance-worshipers  care  less  than  nothing;  fine 
clothes,  worn  above  mean  undergarments;  sounding  phrases 
aired,  like  the  reserve  of  linen  sheets,  for  company  use — have 
more  influence  upon  character  than  we  are  willing  to  believe.  It 
is  well  to  put  the  best  foot  foremost.  It  is  better  to  have  both 
feet  decently  shod  and  alike  serviceable.  Each  of  us  knows 
plenty  of  people  who  have  company  tones,  company  smiles,  com- 
pany phraseology,  company  opinions — zmwisely  kept  for  show. 
One  and  all,  singly  and  collectively,  they  mean  to  imply  something 
which  the  wearers  thereof  are  not.  Their  "appearances"  are  so- 
cial electroplating,  moral  veneering.  Slipshod  at  home  and 
every  day;  well-groomed  abroad  and  in  the  sight  of  those  to 
whom  it  makes  not  an  atom  of  difference  how  the  hypocrites  look 
or  act, — "home  devils  and  street  angels,"  as  plain-spoken  critics 
style  them, — such  is  the  great  host  of  those  who  keep  up  ap- 
pearances because  they  have  not  souls  above  shams,  whose 
dusters  and  mops  never  visit  the  insides  of  burnished  cups  and 
platters.  Verily  they  have  their  reward,  but  the  prizes  are  as 
ignoble  as  the  recipients  and  their  motives. 

We  see,  or  may  see,  if  we  use  our  senses  aright,  the  heroic  side 
of  the  question.  My  heart  aches  with  the  thought  of  scores  of 
examples  which  pass  under  my  eyes  in  the  lives  of  unknown 
martyrs  of  whom  this  world  is  not  worthy,  by  whom  the  world 
to  come  will  be  made  the  worthier  abiding-place  of  those  for 
whom  the  Father  has  prepared  it. 

An  old  woman,  who  knew  the  Bronte  sisters  as  children  and 
women,  told  me  that  their  body  linen  was  darned  by  a  thread  un- 
til the  original  fabric  hardly  showed  between  the  mending. 

"But  it  was  always  whole  and  clean,  and  they  ma.de  it  as  care- 
fully as  if  it  were  to  be  trimmed  with  real  lace.  Nobody  ever  saw 
a  rip  in  their  gloves,  and  they  cleaned  them  themselves.  They 
looked  like  the  ladies  they  were.  Not  a  bit  fashionable,  but 


500  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

downright  ladylike,  you  know.  They  always  kept  themselves 
up." 

I  heard  another  "downright  ladylike"  girl,  who  is  almost  as 
poor  as  the  Yorkshire  sisters  were,  insist,  the  other  day,  upon 
dressing  for  the  family  dinner  when  the  relative  with^whom  she 
lived  begged  her  not  to  change  her  walking  costume. 

"You  are  so  tired,  my  dear,  after  teaching  all  day !" 

"We  working  women  can  not  take  such  liberties  with  our- 
selves," said  the  spirited  heroine.  "If  we  let  the  forms  of  ele- 
gant propriety  and  conventionality  go,  we  are  in  danger  of  for- 
getting what  they  represent." 

Of  a  like  strain  was  the  regard  for  appearances  that  led  young 
Ellsworth,  who  was  killed  early  in  the  Civil  War,  decline  an  in- 
vitation to  dine  with  a  business  acquaintance  at  a  restaurant  when 
Ellsworth  was  so  hungry  that  the  smell  of  the  food  made  him 
almost  frantic.  He  was  then  a  poor  student  working  his  way 
through  a  New  York  law  school.  In  referring  to  the  incident  in 
more  prosperous  days,  Colonel  Ellsworth  explained  that  he  could 
not  have  accepted  a  courtesy  he  would  not  be  able  to  repay  in 
kind. 

"A  gentleman  may  starve  without  loss  of  caste,"  he  added. 
"He  forfeits  his  right  to  the  name  in  becoming  a  pauper,  or  a 
beggar." 

The  outward  appearance  was  the  sign  of  the  inward  grace, 
inbred  and  invincible. 

True  refinement — the  kind  that  does  not  shrink  or  go  to  pieces 
under  the  roughest  processes  of  the  mangle  we  know  as  daily 
living — is  "even-threaded"  and  consistent  throughout. 

I  called  the  other  day  upon  a  woman  who  has  never  been  rich, 
but  always  refined.  She  is  now  poor.  She  can  never  be  com- 
mon. Her  lunch  hour  was  earlier  than  I  had  supposed,  and  my 
call  infringed  upon  it.  She  and  her  daughter  were  at  table. 

"You  shall  not  go,"  she  insisted ;  "I  can  give  you  a  cup  of  hot 
tea  and  little  else  besides  'bread  and  cheese  and  kisses.'  The 
welcome  must  make  up  the  rest." 

The  cheese  had  been  melted  upon  buttered  toast,  cut  by  a  tin 
"shape"  into  scalloped  ovals ;  it  was  golden  brown  in  color,  crisp 


A  BRIDESMAIDS'  TABLE  WITH   PINK  ROSES 


ura 


TABLE   FOR   AN   ENGAGEMENT   DINNER 


SUGGESTION    FOR    A    SUNFLOWER    LUNCHEON 


EVEN-THREADED    LIVING  501 

to  the  teeth,  savory  to  the  palate.  The  tea  was  scalding  and 
fresh  and  fragrant ;  for  meat  we  had  three  Hamburg  steaks,  gar- 
nished with  celery-tops.  They  were  accompanied  by  an  apple- 
and-celery  salad,  treated  on  the  table  to  a  French  dressing; 
wafery  slices  of  brown  bread  and  butter  went  with  it.  After- 
wards we  had  Albert  biscuits  and  a  second  cup  of  tea — and  noth- 
ing else.  Beyond  the  laughing  remark  prefacing  the  frugal  meal, 
the  hostess  offered  no  apology.  She  lived  in  this  style  every  day, 
affecting  nothing  and  hiding  nothing.  A  gentlewoman  in  grain, 
if  she  had  sat  down  to  three  meals  a  day  alone,  she  would  have 
breakfasted,  lunched  and  dined — not  merely  "fed."  Luxury  was 
beyond  her  reach — elegance  never. 

Simplicity  need  not  be  homely.  Neatness  is  not  a  synonym 
for  bareness.  A  certain  degree  of  beauty  and  grace  is  almost 
a  Christian  duty. 

The  best  cooks  can  not  afford  to  despise  the  recommendation 
of  the  eye  to  the  palate.  The  difference  between  plain  and  dainty 
housekeeping  depends  so  much  upon  it  that  the  professional 
caterer  plays  cunningly  upon  the  desire  of  the  eye,  often  bringing 
a  good  thing  into  disrepute.  Because  his  garnishes  and  fanciful 
devices  conceal  cheap  materials  and  indifferent  manufactures  is 
no  reason  why  the  housekeeper  should  not  make  the  substantial 
"home  fare"  provided  by  her  honest  hands  goodly  to  sight,  as 
well  as  to  taste. 

Cooking  schools  and  classes,  chafing-dish  lectures  and  the 
cuisine  corner  of  the  woman's  page  have  been  active  for  more 
than  a  third  of  a  century  to  bring  our  average  American  house- 
wife to  what  old-time  revivalists  called  "a  realizing  sense"  of 
the  deficiencies  of  the  national  kitchen,  and  by  the  rugged  road 
of  conviction  to  conversion  from  the  old  way  to  the  new,  which 
is  the  better.  There  is  no  dearth  of  missionaries,  no  lack  of 
machinery. 

Much  of  the  work  done  by  these  is  surface  culture — scratching 
and  smoothing  over  the  soil,  cleansing,  to  a  polish,  cup  and  plat- 
ter. Curled  parsley,  beets,  carrots  and  turnips,  carved  into 
leaves,  stars  and  flowers,  and  fantastic  confections  of  tissue  paper 
and  meringue — do  not  cheat  veterans  in  gastronomies  into  relish 


502  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

of  the  ill-prepared  dishes  they  adorn.  Experiences  of  this  sort 
have  something  to  do  with  the  contempt  felt  by  many  competent 
cooks  for  culinary  esthetics.  They  class  everything  that  looks  in 
this  direction  under  the  head  of  "French  cookery/'  a  synonym 
with  them  for  flash  and  frippery. 

I  grant  that  to  the  hale  appetite  of  the  lover  of  "plain  roast 
and  boiled"  of  joints,  haunches  and  rounds — the  man  who  can 
digest  mountains  of  fried  "griddles,"  and,  in  the  bottom  of  his 
stomachic  conscience,  prefers  corned  beef  and  cabbage  to  broiled 
sweetbreads  and  mushrooms — his  steak,  or  rare  roast,  or  sugar- 
cured  ham,  or  choice  cut  of  cod,  tastes  no  better  for  the  garnish 
of  cress,  nasturtium  or  lemon.  I  once  saw  a  millionaire  "high- 
liver"  toss  aside  the  green  sprays  with  the  declaration  that  he 
"liked  to  have  victuals  and  weeds  sent  in  upon  separate  dishes." 
After  clearing  the  trou — trencher ! — he  proceeded  to  feed. 

In  the  feeder's  very  teeth  I  maintain  that  food  daintily  served 
tastes  better  than  the  same  when  set  before  us  with  no  regard  to 
seemliness.  If  slender  appetites  are  to  be  coaxed  into  action,  the 
study  of  pleasing  effects  becomes  an  obligation. 


DINNER  SWEETS  OF  ALL  SORTS 
PIES 

Pastry 

Have  all  ingredients  very  cold.  Into  a  pound  of  flour  chop 
three-quarters  of  a  cup  of  firm,  cold  butter.  When  the  flour  is 
like  a  coarse  powder  stir  into  it  a  small  cupful  of  iced  water.  With 
a  spoon  mix  together,  then  turn  upon  a  floured  pastry-board,  roll 
out  quickly  and  lightly,  fold  and  roll  out  again.  Set  the  pastry 
on  the  ice  until  chilled  through,  roll  out  and  line  a  pie-dish  with 
it.  Before  filling  the  pastry  shell  with  fruit,  or  other  material 
of  which  the  pie  is  to  be  made,  wash  over  the  lower  crust  with 
the  unbeaten  white  of  an  egg,  and,  when  the  filling  is  put  in,  set 
the  pie  immediately  in  an  oven  that  is  as  hot  at  the  bottom  as  at 
the  top.  The  oven  must  be  hot  and  steady. 

A  good  puff  paste 

Into  a  half-pound  of  flour  chop  six  ounces  of  firm,  cold  butter, 
and,  when  like  a  coarse  powder,  wet  with  a  small  cupful  of  iced 
water.  Stir  to  a  paste  and  turn  upon  a  chilled  board.  Roll  out 
quickly  and  lightly,  handling  as  little  as  possible.  Fold  and  roll 
out  three  times,  then  set  on  the  ice  for  several  hours  before  mak- 
ing into  pies.  Always  bake  pastry  in  a  very  hot  oven. 

Family  pie  crust 

Sift  a  quart  of  flour  three  times  with  one  teaspoonful  of  bak- 
ing-powder. Chop  into  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cottolene  or 
other  fat  until  it  is  like  granulated  dust.  Wet  with  iced  water 

503 


504  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

into  a  stiff  dough,  handling  as  little  as  you  can,  using  a  wooden 
spoon  until  it  is  too  stiff  to  manage.  Turn  upon  a  floured  board 
and  roll  out  thin.  Have  ready  two  tablespoonfuls  of  firm  butter, 
and  with  this  dot  the  paste  in  rows  one  inch  apart,  using  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter.  Roll  up  the  sheet  of  paste,  inclosing  the 
butter ;  beat  flat  with  the  rolling-pin,  and  roll  out  as  before.  Use 
the  other  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  dotting  this  sheet,  sprinkle 
lightly  with  flour,  and  roll  up  tightly.  Give  a  blow  or  two  of  the 
pin  to  hold  it  in  fold,  and  set  on  the  ice  until  you  are  ready  to 
use  it — -all  night  if  you  like.  It  is  better  for  three  or  four  hours' 
chilling. 

Butter  the  pie-plates,  lay  the  crust  lightly  within  them ;  pinch 
the  edges  to  hinder  it  from  "crawling"  while  baking,  fill  with 
fruit,  or  whatever  else  is  to  go  into  them.  If  this  is  to  be  what 
a  witty  editor  designates  as  "the  kivered  pie  which  stands  high 
in  the  royal  family  of  Pie,"  lay  the  paste  neatly  over  the  filling, 
trim  off  ragged  edges,  and  press  or  print  down  the  edges. 

A  North  Carolina  man  thus  separates  the  "royal  family"  afore- 
said :  "There  are  three  varieties  :  kivered,  unkivered  and  barred." 

The  New  York  editor,  just  quoted,  says  of  the  "kivered"  va- 
riety : 

"Its  triumphant  composition  requires  of  the  artist  higher 
qualities  of  head  and  heart,  a  more  delicate  touch,  a  higher  strain 
of  genius,  a  sublimer  imagination,  than  the  composition  of  the 
unkivered,  or  the  barred.  There  must  be  magic  in  the  upper 
crust  of  it.  Ah !  that  delicious,  finely-flaking  upper  crust,  de- 
signed by  a  deep-revolving  brain  and  fashioned  by  a  sensitive 
hand,  a  pate  Queen  Mab  would  be  glad  to  nibble !" 

On  the  other  hand,  a  New  Orleans  knight  of  the  pen  boldly 
defines  the  kivered  pie  as  "distinctively  a  product  of  New  England 
civilization,  that  has  no  place  in  simpler  and  more  democratic 
states.  Descendants  of  the  men  who  made  the  charge  up  King's 
Mountain,  the  Majuba  Hill  of  this  continent,  take  their  pie  un- 
kivered. They  will  not  touch  the  kivered  abomination !" 


DINNER   SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  505 

Mince  pie 

Returning  to  our  New  York  editorial,  the  amused  reader  finds 
this  eulogium  upon  mince  pie : 

"There  goes  much  skill  to  the  making  of  a  mince  pie.  Within 
the  fortunate  inwards  of  the  president  of  pies  are  strange  dain- 
ties and  spices,  and  Dr.  Johnson's  drink  of  heroes.  The  elements 
are  so  mixed  in  it  that  nature  may  stand  up  and  say  to  all  the 
world :  This  is  a  pie!  A  great  mince  pie  is  a  masterpiece !'  " 

An  anonymous  writer  upon  the  same  subject  says  for  the 
comfort  of  semi-dyspeptics : 

"Mince-meat  ought  to  be  extremely  wholesome  for  the  same 
reasons  that  make  it  good  to  eat — its  flavors  of  sweet  and  sour, 
of  meat,  apple  and  spice,  which  relieve  each  other,  and  its  finely 
divided  particles  which  allow  the  choicer  blending  of  flavors  and 
save  the  stomach  much  of  the  grinding  work  which  reduces  food 
to  the  pulp  in  which  it  enters  the  blood.  What  gives  mince  pie 
its  ill  repute  as  the  very  spawn  of  nightmare,  are  its  overdressing 
with  suet  and  butter,  only  fit  for  polar  consumption,  and  its  drug- 
ging with  spices.  Spice  is  the  very  food  of  the  nerves,  rightly 
used,  growing  more  essential  as  circulation  and  sense  dull  with 
age.  But  it  should  be  delicately,  discerningly  used  not  to  lose 
its  potency.  The  overdressing  with  fat  is  a  relic  of  the  old 
English  barbarism  which  stewed  its  food  in  tallow,  and,  as  the 
old  play  has  it,  'took  two  fat  wethers  to  baste  one  capon/  " 

Mince-meat 

(A  family  recipe  150  years  old.) 

Boil  two  pounds  of  lean  beef,  and  when  cold,  chop  fine.  Mince 
a  pound  of  beef  suet  to  a  powder.  Peel  and  chop  five  pounds  of 
apples.  Seed  and  halve  two  pounds  of  raisins.  Wash,  and  pick 
over  carefully  two  pounds  of  cleaned  currants  and  one  pound  of 
sultana  raisins.  Cut  into  tiny  bits  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
citron.  Mix  these  ingredients,  adding,  as  you  do  so,  two  table- 
spoonfuls,  each,  of  cinnamon  and  mace,  a  tablespoonful,  each,  of 
cloves  and  allspice,  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  nutmeg,  a  tablespoon- 


506  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

ful  of  salt  and  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  brown  sugar.  When  all 
is  well  mixed,  stir  in  a  quart  of  sherry  and  a  pint  of  the  best 
brandy.  Mix  thoroughly  and  pack  down  in  a  stone  crock. 

Mince-meat  should  be  prepared  several  weeks  before  it  is 
needed,  that  it  may  "ripen"  and  become  mellow.  Those  whose 
temperance  principles  forbid  the  moistening  of  the  mince-meat 
with  brandy  or  sherry,  may  use  cider  in  their  place.  In  making 
mince  pies  have  the  best  puff-paste.  Line  pie-plates  with  this, 
fill  the  crust  shells  with  the  mince-meat,  and  lay  strips  of  pastry, 
lattice-wise,  across  the  tops  of  the  pies.  Bake  in  a  good  oven, 
which  should  be  as  hot  at  the  bottom  as  at  the  top.  The  pies  may 
be  kept  for  weeks,  but  must  be  reheated  before  serving. 

Our  New  Orleans  essayist  upon  the  national  pie,  is  cavalierly 
disdainful  in  throwing  aside  the  third  variety : 

"The  barred  pie  may  be  dismissed  without  discussion,  being  a 
mere  compromise,  a  pabulum  for  colorless  individuals  who  are 
the  mugwumps  of  the  dining-room." 

In  defiance  of  the  slur,  I  commend  my  "barred"  mince  pie,  with 
its  latticed  cover,  as  the  pearl  of  the  royal  race.  For  a  century 
and  a  half,  the  Old  Virginia  housewives,  from  whom  I  proudly 
claim  descent,  laid  the  dainty  trellis  across  the  heaving  brown 
breast  of  the  masterpiece,  and  six  generations  of  epicures  have 
set  thereon  the  seal  of  their  approval. 

Pumpkin  pie  (No.  1) 

Belongs  to  the  noble  order  of  the  "unkivered"  pie. 

Add  the  beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs  and  one  cupful  of  white 
sugar  to  two  cupfuls  of  pumpkin  that  has  been  stewed  and  put 
through  a  colander.  With  this  mix  a  quart  of  milk,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  cinnamon,  mace  and  nutmeg  mixed,  and  the  whites 
of  the  eggs,  beaten  stiff.  Line  a  very  deep  pie-dish  with  a  good 
paste,  cut  slashes  in  it  here  and  there,  stir  the  pumpkin  custard 
well  from  the  bottom  and  put  it  into  the  pastry.  Bake  in  a  steady 
oven. 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  507 

Pumpkin  pie  (No.  2) 

Into  a  quart  of  stewed  and  strained  pumpkin  stir  a  quart  of 
milk,  a  cup  of  granulated  sugar,  cinnamon  and  nutmeg  to  taste, 
and,  last  of  all,  five  eggs,  well  beaten.  Mix  thoroughly,  and  pour 
the  mixture  into  a  deep  pie-plate  lined  with  puff  paste.  Bake  in 
a  good  oven  until  the  pumpkin  custard  is  "set."  Eat  cold. 
Canned  pumpkin  is  used  in  the  same  way  and  is  almost  as  good 
as  the  fresh. 

Lemon  cream  pie  (No.  1) 

Heat  a  quart  of  milk  and  ^tir  into  it  one-third  of  a  cupful  of 
prepared  flour  wet  with  a  little  cold  milk.  Let  this  get  hot,  stir- 
ring all  the  while.  Beat  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  light  with  five 
tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  add  the  milk  and  flour  to  this.  Let 
all  cook  together  for  one  minute  after  th|y  come  to  the  simmer ; 
take  from  the  fire  and  add  the  juice  and  grated  peel  of  a  large 
lemon.  Bake  in  open  shells  of  puff  paste,  and,  as  soon  as  the 
custard  is  set,  cover  it  with  a  meringue  made  of  the  whites  of 
the  five  eggs  beaten  stiff  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered 
sugar.  Brown  lightly  and  serve  cold. 

Lemon  cream  pie  (No.  2) 

Cream  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  with  a  cupful  of  sugar ;  dissolve 
a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  corn-starch  in  a  gill  of  cold  water, 
and  stir  it  into  a  cupful  of  boiling  water.  Stir  until  smooth ;  then^ 
pour  over  the  sugar  and  butter.  Mix  well  and  when  cool  stir  in 
the  grated  rind  and  the  juice  of  a  large  lemon,  and  one  beaten 
egg.  Line  a  pie-plate  with  puff  paste,  fill  with  this  mixture  and 
bake.  When  done,  cover  with  a  meringue,  and  return  to  the 
oven  just  long  enough  to  brown  lightly. 

Lemon  pie  with  crust 

Beat  two  eggs  light  and  stir  into  them  two  cupfuls  of  sugar ;  add 
a  pint  of  water,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cracker-dust,  the  same 
quantity  of  flour  rubbed  to  a  paste  with  a  little  cold  water,  the 


508  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

grated  rind  of  one,  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons.  Beat  hard,  add 
a  pinch,  each,  of  cinnamon  and  nutmeg,  and  turn  the  mixture  into 
pie-plates  lined  with  pastry.  Cover  with  an  upper  crust,  cut 
gashes  in  this  for  the  escape  of  the  steam,  and  bake  in  a  steady 
oven  for  forty  minutes. 

Crustless  lemon  pie 

Soak  a  cupful  of  crumbs  for  an  hour  in  a  little  milk.  Cream  to- 
gether a  half-cupful  of  sugar  and  half  as  much  butter,  whip  into 
them  the  beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs  and  the  white  of  one,  reserv- 
ing the  other  whites  for  the  meringue.  Now  add  the  juice  and 
grated  rind  of  two  lemons,  then  the  soaked  crumbs.  Line  a  large 
pie-plate  with  puff  paste,  pour  in  the  lemon  mixture  and  bake  to 
a  golden  brown.  Make  a  meringue  of  the  stiffened  whites  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar.  Draw  the  pie  to  the 
door  of  the  oven,  spread  with  the  meringue  and  return  it  to  the 
oven  just  long  enough  to  brown  it  delicately.  Eat  cold. 

Cocoanut  pie 

Cream  a  half-cupful  of  butter  with  two  scant  cupfuls  of  pow- 
dered sugar,  and  when  very  light  add  half  a  grated  cocoanut  and 
a  generous  tablespoonful  of  rose-water.  Now  "fold"  in  quickly 
and  lightly  the  stiffened  whites  of  six  eggs,  turn  into  a  deep  pie- 
dish  lined  with  puff  paste  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  Eat  cold  with 
powdered  sugar  and  whipped  cream  flavored  with  rose-water. 
This  is  delicious. 

When  it  is  possible  to  do  so  buy  the  fresh  cocoanut  and  grate 
it.  The  prepared  or  desiccated  article  put  up  in  boxes  may  be 
used  as  a  makeshift.  It  can  never  be  a  worthy  substitute  for  the 
fresh  and  juicy  nut. 

Chocolate  pie  (No.  1) 

Make  a  custard  by  pouring  two  cupfuls  of  scalding  milk  grad- 
ually upon  three  eggs  that  have  been  beaten  well  with  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar.  Return  to  the  fire,  stir  in  a  half-cupful  of 
grated  sweet-chocolate,  remove  from  the  fire,  add  a  teaspoonful  of 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  509 

vanilla,  and  pour  the  mixture  into  a  pie-plate  lined  with  puff  paste. 
Bake  until  "set." 

Chocolate  pie  (No.  2) 

One  pint  of  milk ;  one  cupful  of  sugar ;  yolks  of  two  eggs ;  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  grated  chocolate.  Mix,  and  bake  in  an  open 
crust.  Make  a  meringue  of  the  whites  of  the  eggs  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  sugar  and  spread  on  the  top  of  the  pie  to  brown. 

Orange  pie 

Rub  to  a  creamy  paste  a  half-cupful  of  butter  and  a  cupful  of 
granulated  sugar.  Beat  light  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  whip  them 
into  the  butter  and  sugar,  add  the  juice  and  a  quarter  of  the  grated 
peel  of  a  large  orange,  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  and  the 
stiffened  whites  of  two  eggs.  Line  a  pie-plate  with  light  puff 
paste  and  turn  the  orange  mixture  into  this.  Bake  until  the  fill- 
'ng  is  set  and  the  crust  lightly  browned.  Beat  the  whites  of  two 
2SSS  light  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar.  When 
the  pie  is  done,  draw  it  to  the  door  of  the  oven,  spread  it  with 
this  meringue,  and  return  to  the  oven  just  long  enough  to  color 
the  meringue  delicately.  Eat  cold. 

Custard  pie 

Whip  light  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  with  four  tablespoonfuls 
of  sugar.  Pour  upon  them  two  cupfuls  of  boiling  milk,  stirring 
this  in  slowly.  Flavor  with  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  Line  a  pie- 
plate  with  paste,  brush  the  inside  with  the  white  of  an  egg,  pour 
in  the  custard  and  bake. 

Sliced  apple  pie 

Line  a  deep  pie-dish  with  good  puff  paste.  Put  into  this  peeled 
and  cored  and  thinly-sliced  apples ;  sprinkle  thickly  with  sugar 
and  squeeze  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice  upon  them.  Add  more 
sliced  apple,  more  sugar,  a  little  more  lemon,  and  proceed  in  this 
way  until  the  dish  is  full.  Cover  with  a  round  of  puff  paste, 


510  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

pinch  together  the  edges  of  the  upper  and  lower  crusts,  and  cut 
several  slits  in  the  upper  to  allow  the  steam  to  escape.  Bake  in 
a  steady  oven  to  a  golden  brown,  covering  the  pie  with  paper 
for  the  first  ten  minutes. 

Creamed  sweet  apple  pie 

Pare,  core  and  quarter  Campfield  pound  sweets,  or  other  sweet 
apples.  Put  them  into  a  pudding-dish  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
water  to  prevent  burning,  cover  closely  and  cook  until  tender, 
but  not  broken.  Add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  to  each  cupful 
and  let  .them  get  cold  in  the  syrup.  Then  cut  into  thin  slices  or 
tiny  dice.  Roll  out  some  puff  paste  quite  thin ;  line  a  pie-plate, 
sprinkle  with  flour,  lay  on  another  crust  and  bake  until  brown. 
When  ready  to  serve,  open  the  crusts,  spread  the  lower  one  with 
the  stewed  apple,  cover  with  whipped  cream,  put  on  the  top 
crust  and  sprinkle  that  with  powdered  sugar. 

Creamed  apple-sauce  pie 

Bake  your  crusts  as  directed  in  preceding  recipe.  When  you 
separate  them,  spread  with  well-sweetened  apple-sauce  beaten 
light;  cover  with  whipped  cream;  lay  on  the  upper  crust  and 
sprinkle  powdered  sugar  on  top. 

In  both  of  these  recipes  you  may  substitute  a  meringue  of 
frothed  whites,  slightly  sweetened,  for  the  cream,  spreading  the 
same  upon  the  top  crust. 

Apple  meringue  pie 

Slice  and  stew  ripe,  tart  apples ;  run  through  the  colander  or 
vegetable  press  into  a  bowl.  Sweeten  plentifully,  and  beat  in, 
while  hot,  a  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Have  ready  buttered  pie- 
plates  lined  with  puff  paste ;  when  the  sauce  is  cold  fill  these 
shells  with  it  and  bake  until  very  lightly  browned.  Cover  with 
a  meringue,  slightly  sweetened  and  flavored  with  vanilla  or  other 
essence ;  set  in  a  hot  oven  and  bake  until  the  meringue  begins  to 
color.  Sift  powdered  sugar  over  all.  Eat  cold. 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  511 

Peach  meringue  pie 

Stew  and  rub  peaches  through  a  colander  or  a  vegetable  press. 
Sweeten  to  taste,  and  when  cold,  proceed  as  directed  in  last  recipe. 
They  are  very  nice. 

Whole  peach  pie 

Line  a  deep  pie-plate  with  pastry,  and  lay  in  it  as  many  whole 
peeled  peaches  as  it  will  hold.  Strew  thickly  with  sugar;  fit  on 
an  upper  crust  and  bake  to  a  golden  brown.  Eat  with  powdered 
sugar  and  cream. 

Creamed  peach  pie  (No.  1) 

Peel,  stone  and  halve  ripe  peaches.  Line  a  deep  pie-plate  with 
puff  paste,  and  lay  the  peaches  in  this.  Sprinkle  thickly  with 
sugar,  and  fit  on  an  upper  crust.  Have  ready  and  cold,  a  cream 
sauce.  To  make  this,  scald  a  half-pint  of  milk  and  thicken  it  with 
a  tablespoonful  of  corn-starch  rubbed  smooth  in  a  little  cold  milk. 
Add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  the  frothed  white  of  one 
egg.  Boil  together  for  five  minutes  and  set  aside  to  cool.  When 
the  pie  is  done  carefully  lift  the  top  crust  and  fill  the  pie  to  over- 
flowing with  the  cream  sauce.  Replace  the  crust  and  set  in  a 
cool  place.  Sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar  and  eat  very  cold. 


Creamed  peach  pie  (No.  2) 

Bake  as  above,  stoning  the  peaches  and  cutting  each  in  half. 
While  hot,  insinuate  the  blade  of  a  knife  between  upper  and  lower 
crust,  to  loosen  them.  Let  the  pie  get  cold;  lift  the  crust  and 
spread  whipped  cream  upon  the  peaches.  Cover  again,  strew 
powdered  sugar  upon  the  top  crust  and  eat. 

Creamed  raspberry  pie 

Line  a  pie-dish  with  good  pastry  and  fill  it  three-quarters  full 
of  red  raspberries  strewed  with  granulated  sugar.  Cover  with 
an  upper  crust,  but  rub  the  edges  of  this  and  of  the  lower  crust 


512  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

with  butter  to  prevent  their  sticking  together.  Make  a  cream  of 
a  cupful  of  hot  milk  thickened  with  a  teaspoonful  of  corn-starch 
wet  with  cold  milk.  Stir  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  remove 
from  the  fire,  and  when  cool  whip  in  the  stiffened  whites  of 
three  eggs.  When  the  pie  is  done  and  is  cold,  lift  off  the  upper 
crust  and  cover  the  raspberries  with  the  "cream."  Replace  the 
cover  and  sift  powdered  sugar  over  it. 

Cherry  pie 

Many  persons  make  a  cherry  pie  without  stoning  the  cherries. 
That  stoning  them  is  a  trouble  is  not  to  be  denied,  but  the  result 
is  so  satisfactory  that  it  really  seems  worth  while  to  take  the 
pains  to  accomplish  it.  In  stoning  cherries,  use  a  sharp  knife 
and  save  all  the  juice.  Grease  a  deep  pie-dish  and  line  it  with 
good  puff  pastry.  Fill  the  pastry  shell  with  the  cherries  and  the 
juice  that  flowed  from  them  in  the  stoning  process.  Cover  with 
a  thin  crust,  cut  slits  in  this  for  the  escape  of  the  steam,  and  bake. 
Eat  cold. 

Cranberry  pie 

Seed  a  cupful  of  raisins  and  chop  them  into  bits.  Cut  into 
halves  two  cupfuls  of  cranberries  and  mix  them  with  the  minced 
raisins.  Add  two  even  cupfuls  of  sugar,  a  cupful  of  water,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice.  Line 
deep  pie-plates  with  puff  paste;  fill  each  with  the  mixture,  put 
on  a  thin  upper  crust  and  cut  slits  in  this  for  the  escape  of  the 
steam.  Bake  in  a  good  oven  to  a  golden  brown.  When  cold, 
sprinkle  with  sugar. 

Cranberry  and  raisin  pie 

Seed  and  mince  one  cupful  of  raisins ;  mix  with  two  cupfuls 
of  cranberries  halved,  a  half  cupful  of  water  and  a  cupful  of 
sugar.  Stir  one  teaspoonful  of  flour  with  the  sugar  and  mix 
all  well.  Fill  shells  of  pastry  laid  in  buttered  plates  with  this 
mixture,  called  by  some  "mock  cherry  pie,"  lay  strips  of  crust 
cut  with  a  jagging-iron  over  the  top  and  bake. 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  513 

Strawberry  pie 

Line  a  buttered  plate  with  puff  paste,  wash  with  white  of  egg 
and  fill  with  ripe  strawberries  capped  and  washed.  Sweeten 
plentifully,  cover  with  another  crust ;  cut  slits  in  this,  and  bake. 

Currant  pie  (No.  1) 

Mix  ripe  and  stemmed  currants  with  one  cupful  of  sugar  to 
two  of  currants,  and  bake  between  upper  and  lower  crusts.  Strew 
white  sugar  over  the  top  and  eat  cold. 

Currant  pie  (No.  2) 

Fill  a  pastry  shell  with  one  cupful  of  ripe  currants,  cleaned 
and  stemmed.  Pour  upon  them  an  egg,  beaten  light  with  one-half 
cupful  of  sugar.  Lay  another  crust  over  the  currants  and  bake. 

New  England  blueberry  pie 

Wash  and  dredge  blueberries  with  flour;  then  scatter  among 
them  half  a  cupful  of  sugar  for  each  pint  of  berries.  Fill  paste 
shells  with  this,  dot  with  butter,  cover  with  another  crust  and 
bake. 

These  are  richer  than  huckleberry  or  blueberry  pies,  when  made 
in  the  usual  way,  the  flour  thickening  the  juice  slightly  and  the 
butter  tempering  the  acid. 

Blackberry  pie 

Make  as  directed  in  foregoing  recipe. 

Combination  berry  pie 

Line  a  deep  pie-plate  with  pastry  and  bake  long  enough  to  set 
the  crust  on  top,  but  not  to  brown,  or  entirely  cook  it.     Have 
ready  a  mixture  of  equal  quantities  of  elderberries  and  huckle- 
berries with  one-fourth   as  many   red   currants.     Dredge   with 
33 


MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

flour,  and  sprinkle  over  all  a  generous  cupful  of  sugar  for  a  quart 
of  berries;  dot  the  surface  with  bits  of  butter, — one  tablespoon 
in  all, — cover  with  a  crust  which  should  be  well  turned  under 
the  crust  of  the  lower  one,  and  bake,  covered,  half  an  hour,  then 
brown. 

Sweet  potato  pie 

Parboil,  peel,  and  when  cold,  grate  enough  sweet  potatoes  to 
make  a  pound.  Cream  a  half  cupful  of  butter  with  three-quar- 
ters of  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  the  beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs,  a 
teaspoonful,  each,  of  powdered  cinnamon  and  nutmeg,  the  grated 
potato,  the  juice  and  rind  of  a  lemon,  a  wineglassful  of  brandy 
and,  last  of  all,  the  whites  of  the  eggs.  Line  a  large  pie-plate 
with  puff  paste,  fill  with  the  mixture  and  bake. 

Irish  potato  pie 

Boil  and  rub  through  a  colander  or  vegetable  press ;  then  pro- 
ceed as  with  the  sweet  potatoes  in  last  recipe,  but  using  a  full 
cupful  of  sugar. 

This  pie  is  even  more  delicious  than  the  sweet  potato  compound. 

Rhubarb  and  raisin  pie 

Peel  the  rhubarb  and  cut  into  inch  pieces ;  pour  boiling  water 
over  it  and  let  stand  for  ten  minutes.  Drain;  line  the  pie-plate 
with  plain  paste.  Fill  the  pie  with  rhubarb,  and  strew  over  it 
one  cupful  of  sugar  and  one-half  cupful  of  raisins.  Add  small 
pieces  of  butter.  Cover  with  a  crust  and  bake. 

Whipped  cream  pie 

(Contributed) 

Line  a  pie-plate  with  a  rich  crust  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven.  When 
cool  spread  over  with  a  layer  of  jelly  or  marmalade.  Whip  one 
cupful  of  thick  cream,  sweetened  with  powdered  sugar,  and 
flavored  with  vanilla;  pour  this  over  the  marmalade.  Or  fill 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  515 

crust  with  whipped  cream  to  which  has  been  added  one  teacupful 
of  blanched  chopped  almonds. 

Turnover  pies 

(Contributed) 

Mix  a  plain  puff  paste.  Roll  thin  and  cut  into  circular  pieces 
about  the  size  of  a  saucer.  Put  fruit  over  one-half  of  the  piece. 
Sprinkle  with  sugar.  Wet  the  edges  and  turn  the  paste  over. 
Press  the  edges  together  and  bake  on  tins  in  a  quick  oven  twenty 
minutes. 

Mock  mince  pie 

(Contributed) 

Mix  well  together  one  cupful  of  raisins  chopped  fine,  one-half 
cupful  of  chopped  currants,  one-fourth  teaspoonful  of  Salt,  one 
tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  two-thirds  of  a  cupfuii^f  molasses,  one- 
half  cupful  of  cider,  one-half  cup  of  sugar,  one-half* clip ful  of  cut 
citron  and  the  juice  and  rind  of  two  lemons,  two  Boston  crack- 
ers rolled  and  one  well-beaten  egg.  Line  a  pie-pan  with  paste 
and  fill  with  some  of  the  mixture,  cover  with  a  puff  paste  and 
bake. 

Washington  pie 

(Contributed) 

Beat  together  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  cupful  of  sugar 
and  one  egg  until  light.  Add  one  cupful  of  milk  and  two  cupfuls 
of  flour  into  which  have  been  sifted  one  teaspoonful  of  ginger, 
one  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon  and  one-half  teaspoonful  of  baking- 
powder.  Beat  thoroughly  until  smooth.  Line  the  Washington 
pie-plate  with  a  plain  paste,  put  the  mixture  into  it  and  bake  in 
a  moderate  quick  oven  thirty  minutes.  When  done  cover  with 
frosting  and  set  to  cool. 

Crumb  pie 

Soak  a  half  cupful  of  bread-crumbs  in  enough  milk  to  cover 
them  until  they  are  soft  and  have  absorbed  all  the  milk.  Cream  a 


516  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

third  of  a  cupful  of  sugar  with  two  ounces  of  butter;  add  two 
eggs,  well  beaten,  and  the  juice  and  grated  rind  of  two  small 
lemons,  or  one  very  large  one.  Now,  stir  in  the  soaked  crumbs, 
beat  for  a  minute;  turn  into  a  pie-plate  lined  with  puff  paste, 
and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  until  brown  and  very  light. 

Custard  pie 

Make  a  custard  by  pouring  three  cupfuls  of  scalding  milk  upon 
four  eggs  that  have  been  beaten  light  with  four  tablespoonfuls 
of  sugar.  Flavor  with  vanilla,  and  pour  into  a  pie-dish  lined 
with  puff  paste.  Bake  until  set.  Serve  cold. 

Vinegar  pie  (No.  1) 

One  cupful  of  vinegar;  one  cupful  of  water;  a  tablespoonful 
of  butter ;  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  flour  wet  with  cold  water ; 
two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  sugar.  Put  flour,  vinegar,  butter  and 
sugar  into  a  saucepan  and  stir  until  melted,  then  add  the  cold 
water.  Stir  until  thick.  Have  pie-tins  lined  with  a  rich  crust ; 
fill  with  the  mixture  and  bake  for  fifteen  minutes  in  a  hot  oven. 

Beat  the  white  of  an  egg  to  a  stiff  meringue,  adding  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar.  When  the  pies  are  done,  draw 
them  to  the  door  of  the  oven,  spread  thickly  with  the  meringue, 
and  return  to  the  oven  until  a  very  light  brown. 

Vinegar  pie  (No.  2) 

One  egg;  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  flour;  one  teacupful 
of  sugar ;  one  cupful  of  cold  water ;  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar ; 
nutmeg  to  taste.  Beat  the  egg,,  add  the  sugar  and  flour,  beating 
hard ;  then  add  the  other  ingredients,  and  bake  in  an  open  crust. 

Currant  tarts 

Into  a  quart  of  sifted  flour  chop  a  cupful  of  firm,  cold  butter. 
When  the  butter  is  like  coarse  sand  add  a  cupful  of  iced  water 
and  work  into  a  paste,  touching  with  the  hands  as  little  as  possi- 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  517 

ble.  Turn  upon  a  pastry-board  and  roll  out  twice ;  then  set  on  the 
ice  for  an  hour  or  two.  Line  small  buttered  tart-pans  with  this 
paste. 

Stem  and  pick  over  ripe  red  currants  and  wash  them.  Nearly 
fill  the  pastry  shells  with  these  and  sweeten  very  generously  with 
granulated  sugar.  Bake,  and,  when  cold,  sprinkle  with  powdered 
sugar. 

Cranberry  tarts 

Make  a  cranberry  sauce  according  to  directions  already  given. 
Line  pate-pans  with  puff  paste ;  fill  with  the  cranberry  sauce, 
lay  strips  of  pastry,  cross-wise,  over  the  tops,  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven.  When  done,  sprinkle  with  granulated  sugar  and  set  away 
to  cool. 

Lemon  tarts 

Cream  together  a  cupful  of  butter  and  two  cupfuls  of  sugar, 
stir  in  the  beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs,  the  grated  rind  of  one,  and  the 
juice  of  two  lemons,  a  dash  of  nutmeg,  a  wineglassful  of  brandy, 
and  the  stiffened  whites  of  the  eggs.  Line  pate-pans  with  puff 
paste,  and  fill  with  this  mixture.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven  and  serve 
cold. 

Orange  cheese  cakes 

Peel  and  seed  four  large  oranges,  saving  all  the  juice.  Boil 
half  of  the  peels  until  tender,  and,  when  cold,  beat  them  to  a  paste 
with  twice  their  weight  in  powdered  sugar ;  add  the  minced  pulp 
and  the  juice  of  the  oranges  with  a  tablespoonful  of  butter;  beat 
all  together ;  line  pate-pans  with  puff  paste,  lay  in  the  orange  mix- 
ture and  bake. 

There  must  be  no  fibrous  skin  or  membrane  left  in  the  pulp. 
To  get  rid  of  this  rub  it  through  a  colander. 

Cherry  tarts 

Wash,  stem  and  stone  the  cherries.  Allow  one  cupful  of  sugar 
to  a  pint  of  cherries,  if  tart  fruit  be  used.  Put  the  sugar  and  one- 
half  cupful  of  water  on  the  fire;  when  boiling  add  the  fruit  and 


518  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

cook  ten  minutes.  Stir  in  one  teaspoonful  of  butter  and,  if  the 
syrup  seem  thin,  wet  one  teaspoonful  of  corn-starch  in  cold  water 
and  stir  in  to  thicken  the  juice  slightly. 

Have  ready-baked  pates  of  pastry;  fill  with  the  cherry  mixture 
when  the  latter  is  cold,  sift  sugar  over  tog,  and  eat. 

Fried  tartlets 

Make  a  rich  puff  paste  and  cut  it  into  pieces  six  inches  square. 
In  the  center  of  each  square  put  a  great  spoonful  of  raspberry, 
strawberry,  currant  or  gooseberry  jam.  Pinch  the  four  corners 
of  the  square  together,  or  fold  it  in  half  and  pinch  the  edges 
tightly  together  that  the  fruit  may  not  ooze  out.  Drop  the  tarts 
carefully  into  a  kettle  of  deep,  boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat,  and 
fry  quickly  to  a  delicate  brown.  Drain  in  a  colander  lined  with 
tissue  paper. 

These  are  the  celebrated  "Banbury  tarts"  of  English  folk-lore. 


HOT   PUDDINGS 

Boiled  puddings 

BEFORE  attempting  a  boiled  pudding,  be  sure  that  you  have  a 
good  mold  with  a  tightly-fitting  cover  in  which  to  cook  it.  You 
may  use  such  a  substitute  as  a  bowl  with  a  floured  cloth  tied  over 
the  top,  but  this  is,  at  best,  a  "make-do"  which  may  allow  the 
water  to  enter  and  ruin  your  dough.  The  best  substitute  for  a 
mold  is  a  cottolene  pail  with  a  top,  which  may  be  made  more  se- 
cure by  tying  it  on.  Always  grease  your  mold  thoroughly, — top, 
bottom  and  sides, — and  leave  room  for  the  swelling  of  the  con- 
tents. Three  hours  will  be,  as  a  rule,  the  longest  time  required 
for  the  boiling  of  a  pudding  of  ordinary  size.  All  boiled  pud- 
dings should  be  served  as  soon  as  they  are  cooked. 

Apple  pudding  (No.  1) 

Chop  a  cupful  of  suet  to  a  coarse  powder  and  stir  it  into  three 
cupfuls  of  flour,  twice  sifted  with  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder. 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  519 

Add  enough  milk  to  make  a  dough  that  can  be  rolled  out.  Roll 
into  a  square  sheet.  In  the  center  of  the  sheet  lay  three  cupfuls 
of  peeled  and  minced  apples,  strewn  with  sugar.  Bring  the  four 
corners  of  the  sheet  over  the  fruit,  and  pinch  the  corners  together 
in  the  middle.  Tie  up  firmly  with  a  piece  of  broad  white  tape 
passed  twice  around  the  pudding.  Lay  in  a  steamer  and  cook  for 
two  and  one-half  hours.  Remove  the  tape  and  serve  the  pudding 
with  a  hard  sauce  flavored  with  lemon  juice  and  powdered  cinna- 
mon. 

Apple  pudding  (No.  2) 

Into  two  cupfuls  of  prepared  flour  chop  a  tablespoonful  of  but- 
ter, until  it  is  like  a  coarse  yellow  powder.  Make  a  batter  of  this 
buttered  flour,  a  teacupful  of  milk  and  three  beaten  eggs.  Have 
ready  half  a  dozen  peeled  and  sliced  apples,  wiped  dry,  then 
dredged  with  flour ;  stir  these  into  the  batter  and  turn  into  a 
greased  pudding-mold.  Boil  for  two  hours.  Eat  with  a  hot 
lemon  sauce. 

Cranberry  pudding 

Sift,  three  cupfuls  of  flour  with  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt  and 
stir  in  a  cupful  of  molasses,  a  small  cupful  of  sour  cream,  two 
beaten  eggs  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  dissolved  in  a  little 
boiling  water.  Last  of  all,  beat  in  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  halved 
cranberries,  thoroughly  dredged  with  flour.  Turn  into  a  greased 
mold  and  steam  for  at  least  two  hours.  Eat  with  a  hard  sauce. 


Blackberry  pudding 

Make  a  batter  of  a  pint  of  milk,  two  eggs,  and  a  cupful  of  flour, 
sifted  with  a  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  a  small  teaspoonful  of 
baking-powder.  Add  more  flour  if  the  batter  is  too  thin.  Beat 
thoroughly  and  stir  into  the  batter  a  pint  of  blackberries  thorough- 
ly dredged  with  flour.  Pour  at  once  into  a  greased  mold  and  boil 
for  two  hours.  Serve  with  a  hard  sauce. 


520  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Plum  pudding  (No.  1) 

Rub  together  a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar  and  a  half  cupful  of 
butter.  Into  this  stir  a  half  pound  of  chopped  and  powdered  suet, 
then  beat  in  five  eggs,  a  half  pint  of  milk  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
orange  juice.  Dredge  with  flour  a  cupful,  each,  of  seeded  raisins 
r.nd  cleaned  currants  and  a  half  cupful  of  minced  citron.  Add  this 
fruit  to  the  batter  and  stir  in  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of 
powdered  cinnamon,  cloves  and  nutmeg.  Last  of  all,  beat  in  a 
quart  of  flour,  turn  into  a  large  mold  and  steam  for  six  hours. 

Plum  pudding  (No.  2) 

Half  a  pound,  each,  of  sugar  and  suet ;  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter ;  five  cupfuls  of  flour ;  one  pound,  each,  of  cleaned  currants 
and  of  raisins ;  two  tablespoonfuls  of  shredded  citron ;  one  cupful 
of  milk ;  half  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  ground  mace,  cloves  and 
nutmeg ;  six  eggs ;  half  a  cupful  of  brandy. 

Rub  butter  and  sugar  together  and  mix  with  them  the  milk  and 
the  beaten  yolks  of  the  eggs.  Add  the  flour  and  the  whipped 
whites ;  dredge  the  raisins  (which  should  have  been  seeded  and 
chopped),  the  currants  and  citron  with  flour,  and  put  these  in  with 
the  spices  and  the  brandy.  Mix  well,  pack  into  a  greased  mold, 
plunge  at  once  into  a  pot  of  boiling  water  and  boil  five  hours.  Be 
careful  that  the  water  does  not  boil  over  the  top  of  the  mold  and 
get  into  the  pudding. 

Fig  pudding  (No.  1) 

Soak  a  cupful  of  bread-crumbs  in  a  cupful  of  milk  for  half  an 
hour.  Chop  enough  suet  to  make  a  quarter  of  a  cupful;  beat 
three  eggs  light ;  cut  into  tiny  bits  a  sufficient  number  of  soaked 
figs  to  make  a  cupful  of  the  minced  fruit. 

Turn  the  soaked  crumbs  into  a  bowl,  and  stir  into  them  a  half 
cupful  of  granulated  sugar,  the  whipped  eggs,  the  powdered  suet, 
a  pinch  of  salt  and  a  dash,  each,  of  cinnamon  and  nutmeg.  Last 
of  all,  stir  in  the  minced  figs  thickly  dredged  with  flour,  beat  well 
and  turn  into  a  greased  pudding  mold  with  a  closely-fitting  top. 
Boil  for  about  three  hours.  Turn  out  and  eat  with  a  hard  sauce. 


WHIPPED   CREAM 


FLOATING   ISLAND 


BIRTHDAY  CAKE 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  521 

Fig  pudding  (No.  2) 

Use  only  the  best  figs,  soak  one  hour  in  a  little  warm  water,  and 
chop  enough  to  make  a  generous  cupful  when  minced.  Soak  two 
cupfuls  of  fine  bread-crumbs  in  two  cupfuls  of  milk  until  very 
soft.  Into  the  crumbs  stir  five  eggs,  beaten  light,  a  half  cupful  of 
sugar,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  the  cupful  of  minced  figs,  thor- 
oughly dredged  with  flour.  Beat  hard  for  several  minutes,  and 
turn  into  a  greased  pudding  mold  with  a  close  top.  Set  in  boiling 
water  and  cook  for  three  hours.  Dip  the  mold  into  cold  water  for 
an  instant,  then  turn  the  pudding  out  upon  a  hot  platter.  Set  in 
the  oven  long  enough  for  the  moisture  to  dry  from  the  outside 
of  the  pudding.  Three  minutes  in  a  hot  oven  should  suffice.  Send 
to  the  table  and  eat  with  a  hard  sauce  flavored  with  a  little 
nutmeg. 

Fig  and  raisin  pudding 

Soak  a  large  cupful  of  bread-crumbs  in  a  cupful  of  milk  for  an 
hour;  stir  into  them  three  eggs,  beaten  very  light,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  suet,  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 
sifted  with  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder.  Have  ready  a  half 
cupful  of  minced  figs  and  the  same  quantity  of  seeded  and  quar- 
tered raisins.  Mix  the  fruit  together,  dredge  thoroughly  with 
flour,  and  stir  it  into  the  pudding  batter.  Pour  the  mixture  into  a 
large  pudding  mold  with  a  closely  fitting  top,  leaving  an  abun- 
dance of  room  in  the  mold  for  the  pudding  to  swell.  Steam  for 
fully  three  hours.  Turn  from  the  mold,  set  the  pudding  in  the 
oven  for  five  minutes,  and  serve  with  a  liquid  sauce. 


Boiled  Indian  pudding  (No.  1) 

Heat  a  quart  of  milk  to  scalding,  and  beat  into  it  gradually 
three  cupfuls  of  Indian  meal,  into  which  you  have  stirred  a  scant 
teaspoonful  of  salt.  When  the  meal  is  thoroughly  beaten  in  and 
is  free  from  lumps,  add  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered 
suet  and  remove  from  the  fire.  Turn  into  a  bowl  and  set  aside 
to  cool.  When  the  meal-mixture  is  very  cold  beat  in  four  whipped 


522  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

eggs,  a  gill  of  molasses  and  a  half- teaspoonful  of  powdered  cinna- 
mon. Beat  for  five  minutes  and  pour  into  a  greased  pudding 
mold  with  a  closely  fitting  top.  Boil  for  five  hours,  turn  out 
upon  a  heated  platter  and  set  in  the  oven  for  five  minutes  before 
sending  to  the  table.  Eat  with  a  hard  or  liquid  sauce. 

Indian  pudding  (No.  2) 

Heat  a  quart  of  milk  to  scalding.  Into  a  pint  of  Indian  meal 
stir  a  half  pound  of  finely  chopped  suet  and  a  saltspoonful  of  salt. 
Turn  this  into  the  scalding  milk.  Stir  all  together  and  remove 
from  the  fire.  When  cold  add  three  well-beaten  eggs,  a  small  cup- 
ful of  molasses  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-soda  dissolved  in 
a  tablespoonful  of  boiling  water.  Dredge  a  pound  of  seeded 
raisins  with  a  cup  of  flour,  and  stir  in  last  of  all.  Boil  for  three 
hours.  Serve  with  hard  sauce. 

Batter  pudding 

Into  four  eggs,  beaten  very  light,  stir  three  cupfuls  of  milk  and 
a  pint  of  flour  that  has  been  twice  sifted  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
baking-powder  and  a  saltspoonful  of  salt.  Turn  into  a  greased 
pudding  mold  and  steam  for  two  hours.  Eat  with  hot  brandy 
sauce. 

Boiled  prune  pudding 

Stew  a  pound  and  a  half  of  prunes;  when  cold  remove  the 
stones  and  cut  each  prune  into  four  pieces.  Into  a  half  cupful  of 
powdered  suet  stir  a  half  cupful  of  powdered  sugar,  two  beaten 
egg"s»  a  gill  of  milk,  a  gill  of  the  prune  liquor  and  a  scant  pint  of 
flour,  sifted  with  a  half  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder  and  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Beat  all  thoroughly  together,  and,  last  of  all, 
add  the  quartered  prunes,  thoroughly  dredged  with  flour.  Turn 
into  a  greased  pudding  mold  with  a  closely  fitting  top  and  boil 
for  two  and  a  half  hours.  Eat  hot  with  hard  sauce. 

Boiled  huckleberry  pudding 

Make  a  rich  biscuit  dough.  Roll  this  out,  spread  thickly  with 
huckleberries,  sprinkle  with  granulated  sugar,  and  dot  with  bits 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  523 

of  butter.  Roll  the  sheet  up  carefully  into  an  oblong  parcel,  pinch 
the  edges  together  and  put  into  a  muslin  bag.  Plunge  this  into  a 
vessel  of  boiling  water  and  keep  at  a  hard  boil  for  at  least  two 
hours.  Remove  the  pudding  and  serve  with  hot  liquid  sauce. 


Steamed  orange  pudding  (1) 

Soak  a  cupful  of  bread-crumbs  in  a  cupful  of  milk  until  very 
soft ;  beat  into  them  three  whipped  eggs,  two  tablespoonf uls  of 
powdered  suet  and  three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of  sugar.  Carefully 
peel  and  divide  into  half  lobes  three  oranges,  dredge  each  piece 
thoroughly  with  flour,  and  stir  the  fruit  into  the  above  mixture. 
Turn  into  a  greas'ed  pudding  mold  with  a  closely  fitting  top  and 
steam  for  at  least  three  hours.  Turn  the  pudding  out  upon  a  hot 
platter,  set  in  the  oven  for  five  minutes  to  dry,  and  send  to  the 
table  with  a  hard  sauce. 


Boiled  orange  pudding  (2) 

Make  a  light  paste  of  a  pint  of  flour  and  three-quarters  of  a 
cupful  of  shortening — half  butter,  half  cottolene  or  other  fat — wet 
with  enough  iced  water  to  make  it  of  the  proper  consistency  to  roll 
out.  Set  in  a  cold  place  for  several  hours.  Roll  into  a  large  sheet 
and  cover  this  thickly  with  juicy  oranges,  peeled,  sliced  and 
seeded.  Sprinkle  the  fruit  well  with  granulated  sugar  and  roll  up 
the  pastry.  Fold  the  ends  closely  together,  sew  the  pudding  into  a 
floured  cheese-cloth  bag,  and  boil  for  nearly  two  hours.  Serve 
very  hot  with  a  hard  sauce  flavored  with  orange  juice  and  a  half 
teaspoonful  of  the  grated  peel. 


Raisin  pudding 

Wash  and  seed  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  raisins,  and  dredge  them 
thickly  with  flour.  Chop  a  cupful  of  suet  very  fine,  removing  all 
particles  of  string.  It  should  be  like  powder.  To  this  add  a  half 
cupful  of  brown  sugar,  a  cupful  of  sour  milk  and  three  eggs 
beaten  light.  Now  stir  in  enough  flour  to  make  a  batter.  (This 


524  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

batter  must  not  be  too  thick,  as  the  raisins  have  to  be  added  to  it.) 
About  two  cupfuls  of  flour  should  be  enough.  Beat  in  a  half  tea- 
spoonful,  each,  of  nutmeg  and  cinnamon  and  a  small  teaspoonful 
of  soda,  dissolved  in  a  little  boiling  water.  Now  add  the  raisins, 
stir  them  in  well,  turn  the  pudding  into  a  greased  mold  with  a 
closely  fitting  top  and  steam  for  three  hours.  Eat  with  a  hard 
sauce  flavored  with  vanilla. 

Fruit  pudding 

Cream  together  a  cupful  of  butter  and  the  same  quantity  of 
powdered  sugar.  Beat  six  eggs  light  and  stir  them  into  the  butter 
and  sugar.  When  thoroughly  blended  add  three  cupfuls  of  pre- 
pared flour  and  the  grated  peel  of  two  lemons. 

Have  already  prepared  a  half  pound  of  seeded  and  halved  rais- 
ins, eight  minced  figs  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  minced  citron. 
Mix  these,  dredge  them  thoroughly  with  flour  and  stir  into  the 
batter.  Boil  in  a  very  large  mold  for  three  hours.  This  is  an 
excellent  company  pudding  and  is  a  large  one.  Eat  with  hot 
liquid  sauce. 

Clonduff  pudding 

One  cupful  of  molasses ;  half  a  cupful  of  melted  butter ;  three 
and  a  half  cupfuls  of  flour ;  one  cupful  of  milk ;  three  eggs,  well- 
beaten  ;  one-half  teaspoonful  of  baking-soda ;  one  teaspoonful  of 
cinnamon ;  pinch  of  salt. 

Stir  molasses  and  butter  to  a  cream,  add  the  milk,  the  eggs,  the 
spice,  lastly,  the  flour,  sifted  three  times  with  the  salt  and  soda. 
Mix  well,  pour  into  a  buttered  mold ;  set  in  a  pot  of  boiling  water 
and  cook  steadily  for  three  hours.  The  water  must  be  kept  at  a 
fast  boil  all  the  time,  replenishing  from  the  tea-kettle  if  need  be. 
Eat  with  wine  sauce. 

An  excellent  family  pudding,  and  not  expensive. 

Sally's  pudding 

Crumb  stale  cake  finely.  If  there  are  several  kinds,  no  matter. 
Stir  the  white  of  a  raw  egg  into  just  enough  cold  water  to  moisten 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  525 

the  crumbs.  Don't  get  them  too  soft.  Press  the  mixture  into  a 
well-greased  mold,  with  a  close  cover ;  boil  steadily  one  hour ;  turn 
out  while  hot  and  eat  with  hard  or  liquid  sauce. 

Boiled  gooseberry  pudding 

Top,  tail  and  wash  two  cupfuls  of  gooseberries,  ripe  or  green. 
Dredge  with  flour.  Sift  two  cupfuls  of  flour  with  one  teaspoonful 
of  baking-powder  and  half  as  much  salt.  Cream  one-half  cupful 
of  sugar  with  half  as  much  butter.  Add  the  well-beaten  yolk  of 
one  egg,  then  the  white,  beaten  stiff,  one  cupful  of  milk  and  the 
flour  mixture  alternately.  Lastly,  stir  in  the  floured  fruit;  turn 
into  a  well-greased  mold  and  boil  two  hours. 

Steamed  apricot  pudding 

With  one  heaping  cupful  of  flour  sift,  twice,,  a  heaping  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking-powder  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Chop 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  cottolene  or  other  fat  into  this  and  mix  to  a 
dough  with  one  cupful  of  milk.  Strain  the  liquor  from  a  can  of 
apricots  and  save  it  to  make  sauce  for  the  pudding.  Butter  a  deep 
mold ;  pour  an  inch  of  dough  into  the  bottom ;  cover  with  halved 
apricots ;  then  more  dough,  and  so  on  until  all  your  materials  are 
used  up.  Cover  closely  and  boil  or  steam  for  three  hours. 

For  sauce,  strain  and  heat  the  syrup,  thicken  with  a  roux  of 
flour  and  butter,  cook  for  one  minute;  add  a  great  spoonful  of 
sugar  and  boil  three  minutes. 

Suet  pudding 

Slightly  warm  and  stir  together  one  cupful  of  molasses  and  one 
of  suet,  freed  from  strings  and  powdered.  Have  ready  a  cupful 
of  seeded  and  minced  raisins  and  two  even  cupfuls  of  flour,  sifted 
with  one  even  teaspoonful  of  soda  and  a  saltspoonful  of  salt.  Beat 
two  eggs  light,  add  to  the  warmed  mixture,  season  with  mace  and 
cinnamon,  put  in  the  flour,  lastly  the  fruit.  Pour  into  a  buttered 
mold  and  steam  nearly  three  hours. 


526  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Mary's  favorite  pudding 

Sift  twice  with  two  cupfuls  of  whole  wheat  flour  a  heaping  tea- 
spoonful  of  baking-powder  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Have 
ready  half  a  cupful  of  nut-meats — walnuts  or  hickory-nuts— 
scalded,  skinned  and  dried,  then  chopped,  and  a  cupful  of  sultana 
raisins,  stemmed  and  washed.  Dredge  well  with  flour.  Mix  one 
cupful  of  milk  with  one-half  cupful  of  molasses.  Stir  the  sifted 
flour  into  this,  add  the  dredged  nuts  and  fruit  mixed  together; 
turn  into  a  well-buttered  mold,  fit  upon  it  a  close  top,  and  steam  or 
boil  for  three  hours. 

Cornstarch  hasty  pudding 

Heat  a  quart  of  milk  in  a  double  boiler.  When  it  reaches  the 
boiling  point  add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  corn-starch  wet  up  with 
cold  water  and  a  pinch  of  salt.  Cook  for  ten  minutes,  stirring 
often;  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  let  it  stand  at  the 
side  of  the  range  for  five  minutes  longer.  Beat  well  and  serve 
hot.  Eat  with  butter  and  sugar. 

East  Indian  pudding  (very  good) 

One  cupful  of  milk ;  three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of  flour,  sifted 
with  an  even  teaspoonful  of  baking  powder ;  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter;  four  eggs;  four  tablespoonfuls  of  minced  preserved 
ginger,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  the  syrup. 

Heat  the  milk  to  scalding,  stir  in  the  butter,  and,  when  this  is 
melted,  boil  up  before  adding  the  dry  flour — all  at  once.  Stir 
quickly  down  to  the  bottom  every  time,  and  when  you  have  a 
smooth  batter,  turn  out  into  a  bowl.  Beat  hard  with  upward 
strokes  for  one  minute  and  let  it  cool  quickly,  uncovered.  When 
cold,  make  a  hole  in  the  middle,  and  break  in  an  egg  from  the 
shell.  Beat  it  in  hard  and  well  before  dropping  in  another.  Pro- 
ceed in  this  way  until  all  the  eggs  are  beaten  into  the  dough. 

Dredge  the  minced  ginger  with  flour  before  adding  it.  Last  of 
all,  work  in  the  syrup. 

Butter  a  mold  well  put  in  the  pudding  and  steam  for  two  hours, 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  527 

or  boil  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Set  in  cold  water  for  one  minute 
to  make  it  shrink  from  the  sides  of  the  mold.  Turn  out,  and  eat 
hot  with  brandy  sauce. 

Cherry  batter  pudding 

Stone  three  cupfuls  of  ripe  cherries.  Beat  two  eggs  light,  stir 
into  them  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter  and  a  pint  of  milk,  then 
four  cupfuls  of  prepared  flour.  Last  of  all,  stir  in  the  cherries, 
well  dredged  with  flour.  Turn  into  a  greased  mold  and  steam  for 
three  hours.  Serve  with  a  hard  sauce. 

Cabinet  pudding 

(Contributed) 

Butter  a  pudding  mold  and  sprinkle  the  bottom  with  chopped 
raisins,  citron  and  currants ;  add  a  layer  of  sponge  cake  and 
sprinkle  lightly  with  ground  cinnamon  and  cloves.  Alternate 
these  layers  until  the  mold  is  almost  full.  Beat  four  eggs  until 
light,  add  one  quart  of  milk  and  a  little  salt  and  four  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  melted  butter.  Pour  over  the  cake.  Let  all  stand  one  hour 
and  then  steam  for  one  and  a  half  hours  and  serve  with  a  currant 
jelly  sauce. 

Cherry  roly-poly 

(Contributed) 

Sift  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  three  level  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking-powder  into  one  pint  of  flour ;  rub  into  this  one  tablespoon- 
ful of  butter  and  moisten  with  enough  milk  to  make  a  rather  stiff 
dough.  Toss  on  the  board  and  pat  into  a  rectangular  shape. 
Have  ready  some  stoned  and  well-drained  cherries,  lay  them  on 
the  dough  and  press  them  gently  into  it.  Dredge  with  flour  and 
roll  over  into  a  loose  roll,  pinch  the  edges  together  and  wrap  in 
a  cloth.  Lay  in  a  steamer  and  cook  one  hour ;  serve  with  cherry 
sauce. 


528  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

BAKED   PUDDINGS 

• 

Baked  prune  pudding  (No.  1) 

STONE  and  chop  eighteen  stewed  prunes.  Beat  the  yolks  of  four 
eggs  light  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar.  Cook  together  in  a 
saucepan  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  two  of  flour,  and  when 
they  are  blended  pour  upon  them  a  scant  gill  of  hot  milk.  Cook, 
stirring,  to  a  thick  white  sauce ;  beat  this  gradually  into  the  yolks 
and  sugar,  and  add  the  minced  prunes.  Beat  hard  for  five  min- 
utes, and  set  aside  to  cool.  When  cold,  add  the  stiffened  whites 
of  the  four  eggs,  beat  for  a  minute  and  turn  into  a  buttered 
pudding-dish.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  half  an  hour. 

The  sauce  to  be  eaten  with  this  pudding  is  made  by  heating 
the  prune  liquor,  adding  to  it  sugar,  and,  when  this  is  dissolved, 
a  dash  of  lemon  juice. 

Prune  pudding  (No.  2) 

Soak  a -pound  of  prunes  all  night  and,  in  the  morning,  drain 
well.  Put  them  over  the  fire  with  a  half  cupful  of  granulated 
sugar  and  enough  water  to  cover  them,  and  stew  until  tender. 
Take  them  from  the  liquor  and  set  aside  to  cool  in  a  colander, 
reserving  the  liquor  for  the  pudding  sauce.  Stone  the  prunes 
and  chop  them  very  fine.  Break  six  eggs,  dividing  the  yolks  from 
the  whites.  Whip  the  yolks  until  thick,  beat  into  them  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  the  minced  prunes  and  the 
finely-chopped  meats  of  a  dozen  English  walnuts.  Last  of  all, 
add  quickly,  and  with  light  strokes,  the  stiffened  whites  of  the 
eggs.  Turn  into  a, greased  pudding-dish  and  bake  in  the  lower 
part  of  a  moderate  oven  for  half  an  hour.  Serve  in  the  bake-dish 
as  soon  as  done  with  a  sauce  made  by  stirring  into  a  pint  of  rich 
cream  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  a  dash,  each,  of  nutmeg  and 
cinnamon,  and  a  gill  of  prune  syrup.  Serve  this  sauce  cold. 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  529 

Fruit  pudding 

Into  the  beaten  yolks  of  five  eggs  beat  a  cupful  of  sugar,  a  half 
pound  of  powdered  suet,  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  ground  nutmeg, 
cinnamon  and  cloves,  two  cupfuls  of  milk  and  a  pint  of  flour. 
Have  ready  chopped  two  ounces  of  citron  and  a  half  pound  of 
seeded  raisins.  To  these  add  a  half  pound  of  cleaned  currants 
and  dredge  all  thoroughly  with  flour.  Stir  the  fruit  gradually 
into  the  batter,  and,  last  of  all,  fold  in  the  stiffened  whites  of  five 
eggs.  Turn  into  a  greased  pudding-dish  and  bake  for  an  hour 
and  a  quarter  in  a  steady  oven.  Eat  with  hard  sauce. 

Pineapple  pudding 

Peel  and  chop  a  pineapple  and  cover  with  granulated  sugar. 
Let  it  stand  in  the  ice-box  for  an  hour,  then  drain  the  juice  from 
the  fruit,  saving  both.  In  the  bottom  of  a  buttered  pudding-dish 
put  a  layer  of  split  "lady  fingers,"  and  over  them  pour  a  little 
of  the  pineapple  juice,  to  which  you  have  added  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  lemon  juice.  Spread  the  lady-fingers  with  a  layer  of  the  chopped 
pineapple;  put  in  another  layer  of  the  pineapple,  and  more  of  the 
juice  and  fruit.  Have  the  top  layer  of  the  moistened  pineapple. 
Cover,  set  the  pudding-dish  in  an  outer  pan  of  boiling  water,  and 
bake  in  a  steady  oven  for  at  least  an  hour.  Uncover,  and  brown 
lightly.  Serve  this  pudding  with  hot  liquid  sauce  flavored  with 
the  ju:ce  of  two  lemons  and  the  grated  peel  of  one. 

Apple  and  tapioca  pudding 

Soak  a  cupful  of  tapioca  for  two  hours  in  enough  cold  water 
to  cover  it.  Lay,  side  by  side,  in  a  deep  bake-dish  apples  that  have 
been  pared  and  cored.  Pour  over  them  a  cupful  of  boiling  water ; 
put  a  cover  on  the  dish  and  cook  in  the  oven  until  the  apples  are 
tender.  When  done,  drain  the  water  from  the  apples,  leaving 
them  still  in  the  bake-dish,  fill  the  centers  with  granulated  sugar, 
squeeze  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice  on  each,  and  pour  the  soaked 
34 


530  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

tapioca  over  and  around  the   fruit.     Bake   for  about  an  hour. 
Eat  hot  with  hard  sauce. 

Tapioca  and  raisin  pudding 

Soak  a  cupful  of  tapioca  in  a  pint  of  milk  for  three  hours,  then 
add  a  quart  of  rich  milk  and  soak  at  least  an  hour  longer.  Put 
into  a  double  boiler  and  heat  slowly.  When  the  tapioca  is  very 
soft,  cream  two  tablespoonfuls,  each,  of  butter  and  sugar;  add 
to  this  two  beaten  eggs,  then  gradually  beat  in  the  hot  tapioca. 
Add  a  cupful  of  seeded  and  halved  raisins,  turn  into  a  buttered 
pudding-dish  and  bake.  Eat  hot  with  hard  sauce. 

Peach  batter  pudding 

Make  a  batter  of  four  beaten  eggs,  a  quart  of  milk,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  three  scant  cupfuls  of  prepared  flour 
and  a  saltspoonful  of  salt.  Lay  in  a  deep  pudding-dish  fifteen 
peaches  that  have  been  peeled,  stoned  and  quartered.  Strew  with 
sugar,  pour  the  batter  over  and  around  them  and  bake  in  a  steady 
oven.  Eat  at  once  with  hard  sauce. 

Plum  pudding 

Seed  and  chop  a  pound  of  raisins,  stem  and  wash  a  pound  of 
currants,  shred  and  mince  three  tablespoonfuls  of  citron  and 
dredge  with  flour.  Rub  to  a  cream  a  half  pound  of  sugar*  and 
half  as  much  butter,  and  beat  into  them  six  whipped  eggs,  a  cupful 
of  milk,  a  quart  of  flour,  and  spices  to  taste.  Stir  in  the  fruit,  last 
of  all. 

Baked  orange  pudding 

Make  a  batter  of  two  eggs,  a  cupful  of  milk,  a  tablespoonful 
of  melted  butter  and  about  three  cupfuls  of  flour  into  which 
have  been  sifted  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder.  Peel,  seed 
and  cut  into  bits  four  oranges ;  beat  these  into  the  batter  and  bake 
in  a  greased  pudding-dish  in  a  hot  oven.  Serve  with  hot  liquid 
sauce  made  according  to  the  following  recipe : 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  531 

Orange  sauce 

Rub  together  five  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  a  cupful  of  gran- 
ulated sugar.  Put  these  into  a  saucepan  and  pour  upon  them  half 
a  cupful  of  boiling  water,  then  the  stiffened  whites  of  three  eggs, 
the  juice  of  two  oranges  and  half  a  lemon.  Beat  with  an  egg- 
beater  until  very  foamy,  and  serve. 

Raspberry  cottage  pudding 

Rub  to  a  cream  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  a  scant  cupful 
of  sugar.  Stir  in  a  gill  of  cream,  three  beaten  eggs,  and  two  cup- 
fuls of  prepared  flour.  Last  of  all,  add  a  pint  of  red  raspberries, 
plentifully  dredged  with  flour.  Turn  into  a  greased  mold  and 
bake  for  one  hour.  Serve  hot  with  hard  sauce  into  which  has 
been  beaten  the  juice  from  a  pint  of  red  raspberries. 

Blackberry  pudding 

Beat  three  eggs  light  and  stir  them  into  two  cupfuls  of  milk. 
Sift  a  quart  of  flour  with  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder  and 
beat  this  gradually  into  the  eggs  and  milk.  Dredge  three  cupfuls 
of  blackberries  with  flour  and  stir  these  into  the  batter.  Turn 
into  a  greased  pudding-dish,  and  bake,  covered,  for  an  hour; 
then  uncover  and  brown.  Eat  with  hard  sauce. 

Cherry  pudding 

Stem  and  stone  two  heaping  cupfuls  of  cherries.  Beat  three 
eggs  light  and  stir  into  them  a  pint  of  milk,  a  tablespoonful  of 
melted  butter,  and  a  quart  of  flour  which  has  been  twice  sifted 
with  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder.  Beat  well,  and  add  the 
cherries,  which  should  be  thoroughly  dredged  with  flour.  Stir 
these  in,  lightly  and  quickly;  turn  into  a  greased  pudding-dish 
and  bake  in  a  steady  oven  for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Bake,  covered, 
for  the  first  hour ;  uncover  and  brown.  Serve  the  pudding  in  the 
dish  in  which  it  was  baked.  Eat  hot  with  a  hard  sauce. 


532  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 


Rhubarb  pudding 

Grease  a  pudding-dish  and  put  into  it  a  layer  of  bread-crumbs 
that  have  been  soaked  in  a  pint  of  water  to  which  have  been  added 
the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  a  half  cupful  of  sugar.  Sprinkle  these 
crumbs  with  bits  of  butter,  and  put  over  them  a  thick  layer  of 
stewed  rhubarb  well  sweetened.  Now  add  more  crumbs  and 
more  rhubarb,  and  proceed  in  this  manner  until  the  dish  is  full. 
Sprinkle  the  top  of  the  pudding  with  dry  bread-crumbs  dotted 
with  bits  of  butter.  Bake,  covered,  for  half  an  hour ;  uncover, 
and  bake  for  ten  minutes  longer.  Eat  with  hard  sauce,  flavored 
with  powdered  nutmeg. 

Brown  betty 

Peel  and  chop  enough  apples  to  make  two  cupfuls.  Have  ready 
one  cupful  of  fine  bread-crumbs  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter 
cut  into  small  bits.  Butter  a  bake-dish  and  put  in  the  bottom  of  it 
a  layer  of  chopped  apple  sprinkled  with  sugar,  bits  of  butter,  and 
a  very  little  cinnamon ;  over  this  spread  a  layer  of  crumbs.  Then 
comes  another  layer  of  apple,  'and  so  on  until  the  dish  is  full. 
The  topmost  layer  must  be  of  crumbs  dotted  v/ith  bits  of  butter. 
Bake,  closely  covered,  for  forty  minutes ;  remove  the  cover,  set 
the  dish  on  the  upper  grating  of  the  oven,  and  brown  the  pudding. 
Serve  hot,  with  hard  butter  and  sugar  sauce. 

Rice  custard  pudding 

Make  a  white  sauce  by  cooking  together,  until  they  bubble, 
a  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  one  of  butter,  and  pouring  on  them 
a  cupful  of  milk.  Stir  until  thick,  and  set  aside  to  cool.  When 
cool,  beat  into  this  sauce  three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of  cold  boiled 
rice  and  four  well-beaten  eggs.  Turn  into  a  buttered  pudding- 
dish,  put  the  dish  into  a  pan  of  boiling  water  and  cook  until  the 
custard  is  set.  A  quarter  of  an  hour  should  suffice.  Eat  with 
a  vanilla  sauce  made  according  to  the  following  directions : 

Put  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  into  a  saucepan  over  the  fire,  stir 
into  it  two  teaspoonfuls  of  corn-starch  dissolved  in  cold  water, 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  533 

one  teaspoonful  of  butter,  half  a  cupful  of  sugar,  a  teaspoonful 
of  lemon  juice  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  Stir  until  the  sauce 
boils  and  thickens. 

Poor  man's  pudding" 

Pare  the  crusts  from  slices  of  graham  bread,  toast  delicately 
and  cut  the  slices  into  dice.  Butter  a  pudding-dish  and  strew  the 
bottom  with  these  bread  dice.  Moisten  with  a  very  little  milk, 
and  sprinkle  with  granulated  sugar.  Cover  with  apple  sauce, 
well  sweetened.  Add  more  bread  dice,  then  apple  sauce,  and 
proceed  in  this  way  until  your  dish  is  full.  Let  the  top  layer  be  of 
apple  sauce.  Strew  with  bread-crumbs  and  sprinkle  with  cin- 
namon. Cover  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  for  twenty  minutes,  then 
uncover  and  brown.  Eat  cold  with  sugar  and  cream. 

Canned  peach  puddings 

Sift  twice  with  two  cupfuls  of  flour  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of 
baking-powder  and  a  half  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Chop  into  this 
a  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Beat  two  eggs  light,  and  mix  with 
two  cupfuls  of  milk.  Wet  the  prepared  flour  into  a  soft  dough 
with  the  milk  and  eggs.  Butter  several  deep  pate-pans.  Put 
half  a  peach  into  the  bottom  of  each ;  dust  with  sugar  and  cover 
with  batter ;  then,  another  peach  and  so  on,  until  the  pans  are 
full.  Set  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water  in  a  good  oven  and  bake, 
covered,  twenty  minutes.  Uncover,  cook  five  minutes  longer, 
and  turn  out  upon  a  hot  dish. 

Make  sauce  for  them  by  adding  sugar  to  the  peach  syrup,  heat- 
ing and  stirring  in  a  roux  of  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  cooked 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  flour. 

A  German  pudding 

Three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of  seeded  raisins,  three-quarters  of 
a  cupful  of  cleaned  currants,  one-half  cupful  of  chopped  almonds, 
one-half  cupful  of  sugar,  six  eggs,  one-half  cupful  of  sweet  milk, 
five  slices  of  stale  white  bread. 


534  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Cut  the  crust  from  the  bread,  cut  the  bread  slices  into  small 
cubes,  and  fry  them  to  a  golden-brown  in  a  large  tablespoonful  of 
butter.  Have  a  pudding-dish  buttered;  put  in  a  layer  of  bread, 
next  of  fruits  and  nuts  mixed  together,  then  more  bread.  Beat 
the  yolks,  sugar,  milk  and  a  little  grated  lemon  peel;  add  the 
beaten  whites  of  four  eggs ;  pour  this  mixture  over  the  pudding 
and  bake  slowly  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  When  done,  beat 
the  remaining  whites  of  the  eggs  light  with  a  tablespoonful  of 
sugar,  spread  upon  the  pudding  and  brown  slightly.  Serve  warm 
with  fruit  sauce. 

Baked  Indian  pudding 

Stir  into  a  cupful  of  yellow  corn-meal  a  half  teaspoonful  of 
salt ;  pour  gradually  upon  the  salted  meal  two  cupfuls  of  boiling 
water,  and  beat  until  free  of  lumps.  Have  ready  heated  in  a  large 
double  boiler  five  cupfuls  of  milk,  and  into  this  stir  the  scalded 
meal.  Boil  for  an  hour.  Whip  four  eggs  very  light,  and  into 
them  a  gill  of  molasses,  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  powdered  cinnamon  and  nut- 
meg. Now  remove  the  boiled  meal  from  the  fire  and  add  it  very 
slowly,  beating  steadily,  to  the  egg  mixture.  Turn  all  into  a  deep, 
greased  pudding-dish  and  bake,  covered,  for  nearly  an  hour. 
Uncover  and  brown.  Serve  the  pudding  from  the  dish  in  which 
it  was  baked.  Eat  with  hard  sauce  flavored  with  lemon  juice. 


Baked  Indian  puddings 

Make  a  mush  as  directed  in  last  recipe.  Beat  light  three  eggs 
and  one  cupful  of  molasses,  one  tablespoonful  of  softened  butter, 
one  teaspoonful  of  soda.  Ginger  to  taste.  Stir  in  mush  enough 
to  make  a  thick  batter.  Butter  and  heat  a  dozen  pate -pans,  fill 
only  half-full  with  the  mixture,  put  a  raisin  on  top  of  each,  and 
bake  to  a  nice  brown.  Run  a  knife  inside  of  the  pans  and  turn 
out  upon  a  hot  dish.  Serve  with  hard  sauce  flavored  with  vanilla. 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  535 

Macaroni  pudding 

Break  a  half  pound  of  spaghetti  into  bits  of  uniform  length, 
and  cook  in  a  double  boiler  until  tender.  Have  heated  a  pint  and 
a  half  of  rich  milk,  and  thicken  this  slightly  with  a  half  tea- 
spoonful  of  corn-starch  rubbed  into  a  teaspoonful  of  butter. 
When  the  milk  is  of  the  consistency  of  cream,  drain  the  macaroni 
and  stir  into  it  this  white  sauce.  Put  into  a  double  boiler  and 
heat  for  five  minutes.  Turn  into  a  deep  dish,  sprinkle  lightly 
with  powdered  cinnamon,  and  serve  with  butter  and  sugar. 

Bread-crumb  pudding 

Soak  a  pint  of  fine  dry  bread-crumbs  for  two  hours  in  a  quart 
of  milk,  then  beat  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  a  half 
teaspoonful  of  powdered  nutmeg,  the  whipped  yolks  and  the 
stiffened  whites  of  four  eggs.  Bake  in  a  buttered  pudding-dish 
and  eat  hot  with  hard  sauce. 

Cottage  pudding  (excellent) 

Sift  three  cupfuls  of  flour  twice  with  one  teaspoonful  of  baking- 
powder  and  a  little  salt.  Rub  to  a  cream  a  cupful  of  powdered 
sugar  and  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Beat  two  eggs  light 
—yolks  and  whites  separately.  Mix  the  yolks  with  the  creamed 
butter  and  sugar,  then  one  cupful  of  milk ;  lastly,  the  prepared 
flour,  alternately  with  the  frothed  whites.  Bake,  covered,  in  a 
buttered  mold  until  a  straw  comes  out  clean  from  the  thickest 
part. 

Eat  .with  hard,  or  with  liquid  sauce. 

Bread  and  fig  pudding 

Cut  figs  into  small  dice.  Make  a  custard  by  heating  a  cupful 
of  milk  and  pouring  it  upon  four  eggs  beaten  light  with  six  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  then  cooking  it  until  it  is  just  thick  enough 
to  coat  the  spoon.  Dip  crustless  slices  of  bread  for  a  second  in 
milk;  put  a  layer  of  them  into  a  pudding-dish,  cover  with  the 


536  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

fig-dice,  and  pour  over  all  the  hot  custard.  Then  put  in  more 
bread,  more  figs  and  custard,  and  proceed  until  the  dish  is  full. 
Wait  a  moment  for  the  bread  to  absorb  some  of  the  custard, 
and  pour  the  rest  of  the  hot  liquid  into  the  dish  until  it  is  full  to 
the  brim.  Cover  the  dish  and  bake  until  the  custard  is  set ;  un- 
cover and  brown.  Serve  as  soon  as  baked.  Eat  with  a  hard 
sauce. 

Peach  scallop 

Peel  and  chop  enough  peaches  to  make  two  cupfuls.  Put  a 
layer  of  them  into  the  bottom  of  a  greased  pudding-dish,  sprinkle 
thickly  with  sugar,  add  a  layer  of  stale  sponge  cake-crumbs,  then 
more  sugared  peaches,  and  so  on  until  the  dish  is  full.  Sprinkle 
with  sugar  and  crumbs,  and  bake  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
Eat  hot  with  hard  sauce. 

Date  pudding 

Substitute  dates,  stoned  and  minced,  for  figs  in  the  next-to-the- 
last  recipe. 

Queen  of  puddings 

Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  light,  add  a  cupful  of  sugar,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  softened  butter,  and  when  these  are  well-mixed,  four 
cupfuls  of  milk.  Lastly,  beat  in  two  cupfuls  of  dried  crumbs, 
and  turn  into  a  buttered  pudding-dish.  Bake  like  a  custard. 
When  baked,  spread  over  the  top  strawberries,  sliced  peaches  or 
jelly  of  any  sweet  kind,  and  cover  the  whole  with  the  whites  of 
the  eggs  beaten  stiff  with  half  a  cupful  of  sugar.  Brown  lightly 
in  the  oven.  Sift  powdered  sugar  over  fresh  fruit  if  it  is  used, 
and  always  over  the  meringue.  Eat  warm  with  sugar  and  cream, 
or  very  cold  with  the  same. 

An  old-fashioned  bread  pudding 

Soak  a  pint  of  fine  crumbs  in  a  quart  of  milk,  and  when  they 
have  soaked  for  two  hours,  stir  in  four  well-beaten  egg  yolks, 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  a  scant  half  teaspoonful  of 
soda  dissolved  in  a  little  boiling  water  and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg. 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  537 

Last  of  all,  fold  in  lightly  the  stiffened  whites  of  the  eggs.  Bake 
in  a  well-greased  pudding-dish,  cover  for  half  an  hour,  then  un- 
cover and  brown.  Send  to  the  table  as  soon  as  done  and  eat  with 
hot  wine  sauce. 

A  baked  Charlotte 

Slice  stale  cake  as  neatly  as  may  be.  Spread  each  piece  with 
jam  or  jelly;  pack  closely  in  a  greased  pudding-dish;  pour  over  it 
a  raw  custard  made  by  beating  an  egg  very  light  and  stirring  it 
into  a  large  cupful  of  milk.  No  sugar  is  needed.  Bake,  covered, 
for  half  an  hour.  Eat  hot  with  lemon  sauce,  or  very  cold  with 
cream. 

Apple  meringue  pudding 

Four  cupfuls  of  well-sweetened  apple  sauce,  run  through  a 
colander  and  beaten  with  an  egg-whisk  until  light  and  creamy. 
One  cupful  of  fine  bread-grumbs  ;  three  eggs  ;  one  glass  of  sherry ; 
one  tablespoonful  of  butter  (melted)  ;  juice  of  a  lemon  and  half 
the  grated  rind ;  mace  and  cinnamon  to  taste.  Mix  crumbs,  apple 
sauce  and  melted  butter  well  together,  add  the  seasoning,  the 
lemon,  and  finally  the  beaten  yolks  of  the  eggs.  Beat  hard  for  one 
minute,  turn  into  a  buttered  pudding-dish  and  bake,  covered,  for 
half  an  hour.  Draw  to  the  oven  door  and  spread  with  a  meringue 
made  of  the  stiffened  whites  of  the  eggs.  Eat  ice-cold  with 
cream. 

Chocolate  pudding 

Make  a  good  custard  of  a  quart  of  milk,  the  yolk  of  five  eggs 
and  a  cupful  of  sugar.  Have  ready  two  tablespoonfuls  of  corn- 
starch  wet  with  cold  milk.  When  the  custard  is  hot,  take  from 
the  fire,  stir  this  in,  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  grated,  un- 
sweetened chocolate.  Turn  into  a  buttered  pudding-dish  and 
bake,  covered,  for  half  an  hour.  Draw  to  the  door  of  the  oven 
and  spread  with  a  stiff  meringue  made  of  the  whites  whipped  light 
with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla.  Return  to  the  oven  for  one  minute,  or  until  the  meringue 
is  "set/' 

Eat  cold  with  whipped  cream. 


538  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

t  • 

Summer  squash  pudding 

Stew  the  squash,  drain  and  rub  through  your  vegetable  press. 
To  each  pint  add  one  cupful  of  sugar,  one-half  teaspoonful  of 
mace  and  a  little  salt,  and  slowly  pour  over  and  mix  in  one  quart 
of  boiling  milk.  Set  aside  until  perfectly  cold,  when  add  the  yolks 
of  five  well-beaten  eggs  and  a  cupful  of  thick  cream ;  bake  in  a 
pudding-dish  in  a  moderate  oven  until  firm  in  the  center. 

Draw  to  the  oven  door  and  cover  with  the  whites  of  three  eggs 
beaten  to  a  meringue  with  a  cup  of  fine  macaroon-crumbs.  Shut 
the  oven  and  brown  lightly. 

Eat  cold.     It  will  be  found  very  nice. 

Cornstarch  pudding 

Dissolve  three  tablespoonfuls  of  corn-starch  in  a  cupful  of  milk. 
then  set  aside  until  cool.  Now  beat  in  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
sugar  and  three  beaten  eggs  with  a  teaspoonful  of  melted  butter. 
Stir  until  thick  and  smooth.  Scald  a  pint  of  milk  and  add  to  it  the 
corn-starch  and  cold  milk.  Season  with  vanilla,  and  bake  in  a 
buttered  pudding-dish.  Serve  cold  with  sweetened  cream. 

Bread-and-milk  pudding 

Soak  two  cupfuls  of  fine  crumbs  in  a  quart  of  milk  for  an  hour. 
Stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  mel^efV  gutter  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla.  Now  beat  in  three  .-  e  f  ^ped  eggs ;  turn  into  a  but- 
tered pudding-dish  and  bake  Wta  set.  Eat  hot  with  sugar  and 
butter,  or  cream  and  sugr 

B  -sad-crumb  pudding 

Soak  three  cupfuls  of  fine  crumbs  for  an  hour  in  a  quart 
of  milk.  Beat  into  the  soaked  crumbs  four  eggs,  whipped  light, 
a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 
Turn  into  a  greased  pudding-dish  and  bake,  covered,  for  twenty 
minutes ;  uncover  and  brown.  Eat  at  once  with  hard  sauce  fla- 
vored with  vanilla. 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  539 

Polly's  pudding 
(A  Virginia  recipe) 

Make  a  custard  of  two  cupfuls  of  hot  milk  poured  gradually 
upon  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  beaten  light  with  four  tablespoonfuls 
of  sugar.  Butter  a  pudding-dish  and  sprinkle  the  bottom  with 
finely-minced  candied  Icinon  peel,  minced  crystallized  fruit,  and 
a  very  little  shreded  suet,  then  a  layer  of  fine  crumbs.  Cover 
each  layer  with  a  few  spoonfuls  of  the  warm  custard  as  you  go 
on  until  the  dish  is  full.  Cover  and  bake  half  an  hour;  spread 
with  a  meringue  made  of  the  whites  and  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar 
and  color  lightly.  'Eat  cold. 

Rice  pudding  without  eggs 
(Contributed) 

Put  into  a  baking-dish  one  cupful  of  rice ;  sweeten  with  a  cup- 
ful of  sugar ;  season  with  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  salt,  grated  nut- 
meg and  cinnamon.  Scatter  through  the  rice  one-half  cupful  of 
seeded  raisins  and  pour  over  it  six  cupfuls  of  milk.  If  the  pud- 
ding looks  dry,  add  another  cupful  of  milk  fifteen  minutes  before 
taking  from  the  oven. 

Rice  pudding  with  eggs 
(Co*  r'buted) 

Boil  until   soft  one  cup  Ice   in  plenty  of  hot   water. 

Drain  and  while  hot  add  o)  iblespoonful  of  butter.  When 
cold  add  to  it  one  cupful  ot  ^agar,  one  teaspoonful  of  grated 
nutmeg  and  one  teaspoonful  of  ground  cinnamon.  Beat  four 
eggs  very  light,  whites  and  yolks  separately,  and  add  them  to  the 
rice.  Then  add  one  cupful  of  seeded  raisins.  Stir  in  one  cup- 
ful of  sweet  milk  gradually,  turn  into  a  buttered  baking-dish  and 
bake  in  a  hot  oven. 


540  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Bird's  nest  pudding 

(Contributed) 

Put  into  a  buttered  baking-dish  six  or  seven  pared  and  cored 
apples.  Mix  to  a  smooth  paste  with  cold  milk  five  tablespoonfuls 
of  flour,  and  add  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  well  beaten.  Then  add 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  the  whites  of  the  eggs  well  beaten. 
Then  more  milk,  using  one  pint  in  all.  Pour  this  mixture  over 
the  apples  and  bake  one  hour  in  a  moderate  oven.  Serve  with 
any  good  sauce. 

Minute  pudding 

(Contributed) 

Beat  two  eggs  very  light  and  add  a  pint  of  flour  and  enough 
of  a  pint  of  milk  to  make  it  smooth.  Put  the  remainder  of  the 
milk  into  a  buttered  saucepan ;  add  a  little  salt,  and  when  it  comes 
to  a  boil  add  lightly  the  egg  and  flour  mixture.  Let  it  cook  well 
and  serve  immediately  with  the  following  simple  sauce:  Rich 
milk  or  cream  sweetened  to  taste  and  flavored  with  nutmeg. 

Cracker  pudding 

Soak  two  cupfuls  of  crushed  crackers,  very  fine,  in  a  quart  of 
hot  milk,  and  stir  in  a  double  boiler  over  the  fire  until  it  smokes. 
Then  put  in  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  a  saltspoonful  of  baking- 
powder  and  four  beaten  eggs.  Turn  into  a  greased  pudding- 
dish  and  bake  until  the  custard  is  set.  Send  to  table  at  once,  and 
eat  with  hard  sauce. 

Frumenty 

(Old  English  recipe) 

Cook  a  cupful  of  raw  rice  with  two  cupfuls  of  hot  water  in  the 
inner  vessel  of  a  double  boiler  for  half  an  hour.  Then  turn  it  into 
three  cupfuls  of  milk  heated  in  the  double  boiler,  and  cook  until 
very  tender.  Stir  in  one  level  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one  level 
tablespoonful  of  butter.  Beat  two  eggs  light  with  two  tablespoon- 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  541 

fuls  of  sugar,  and  stir  this  into  the  hot  rice  when  you  take  it  from 
the  fire. 

Rub  to  a  light  cream  two  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  sugar  with 
one  of  butter  and  season  with  cinnamon.  Turn  the  hot  rice  into 
a  deep  dish,  spread  this  sauce  smoothly  over  the  top,  and  serve. 

This  dish,  made  with  cracked  wheat  instead  of  rice,  was  what 
King  Arthur's  cook  was  bearing  across  the  courtyard  when  Tom 
Thumb,  dropped  by  the  bird  of  prey,  fell  plump  into  it.  It  is 
sometimes  called  "fermenty." 

Sago  pudding 

Soak  half  a  cupful  of  sago  in  a  cupful  of  cold  water  for  two 
hours.  Drain,  put  into  the  inner  vessel  of  a  farina  kettle  with  a 
quart  of  hot  milk,  and  simmer  until  the  sago  is  clear,  stirring  up 
from  the  bottom  several  times.  Add,  then,  a  tablespoonful  of  but- 
ter, four  of  sugar,  a  good  pinch  of  salt  and  three  eggs  beaten  light. 
Beat  all  well  and  turn  into  a  buttered  bake-dish.  Bake  in  a  quick 
oven  twenty  minutes. 

Eat  hot  with  sauce,  or  cold  with  cream. 

Apple  souffle  pudding 

Four  eggs ;  one  pint  of  milk ;  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter ;  six 
large  apples,  juicy  and  tart ;  a  pinch  of  soda  in  the  milk ;  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour. 

Heat  the  milk ;  stir  the  butter  over  the  fire  until  hot,  then  add 
the  flour  and  mix  to  a  paste ;  add  the  hot  milk  to  this,  stir  until 
smooth,  and  pour  gradually  over  the  beaten  yolks.  Into  this 
grate  the  pared  apples,  one  by  one,  mixing  well  and  quickly, 
that  they  may  keep  their  color.  Now,  fold  in  the  whites,  beaten 
to  a  standing  froth,  pour  into  a  buttered  pudding-dish  and  bake 
very  quickly. 

Serve  before  it  falls,  and  eat  with  hard  or  liquid  sauce. 

Apple  puff 

Peel  and  grate  enough  apples  to  make  two  cupfuls.  Beat  the 
whites  of  five  eggs  very  stiff  with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered 


542  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

sugar;  stir  in  quickly  the  grated  apples,  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
lemon  juice.  Turn  into  a  pudding-dish  and  bake  for  half  an  hour. 
Eat  as  soon  as  baked  with  a  hot  custard  sauce. 


Cocoanut  souffle 

Bring  a  pint  of  milk  to  the  scalding  point,  and  stir  into  it  a 
cupful  of  grated  cocoanut.  Set  aside  until  cold,  then  add  five 
eggs,  beaten  very  light,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  bitter 
almonds.  Bake  in  a  soufflle-dish  until  "set."  Serve  with  sweet- 
ened whipped  cream. 

Rice  souffle 

Make  a  white  sauce  of  a  cupful  of  milk  thickened  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  rubbed  into  one  of  butter.  Let  this  cool,  then 
beat  into  it  a  teacupful  of  cold  boiled  rice,  the  whipped  yolks  and 
the  stiffened  whites  of  five  eggs.  Turn  into  a  greased  pudding 
mold  and  bake  until  set.  Serve  immediately.  Eat  with  cream 
and  sugar. 

Rhubarb  souffle 

Soak  half  a  cupful  of  bread-crumbs  for  an  hour  in  a  cupful  of 
milk.  Beat  six  eggs  light,  yolks  and  whites  separate.  Stir  the 
thickened  yolks  into  the  soaked  crumbs ;  add  a  cupful  of  stewed 
and  sweetened  rhubarb,  and,  last  of  all,  fold  in  the  whites.  Turn 
into  a  greased  pudding-dish  and  bake,  covered,  for  half  an  hour ; 
then  uncover  and  brown.  Send  to  the  table  as  soon  as  it  is  re- 
moved from  the  oven,  and  serve  immediately  with  sweetened 
whipped  cream. 

Sweet  omelet  souffle 

Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  stiff,  and  stir  into  them  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar.  Add  two  teaspoonfuls  of  vanilla, 
and  beat  hard  for  five  minutes.  Whip  the  whites  of  six  eggs  to  a 
meringue  with  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  powdered  sugar,  and 
stir  lightly  and  quickly  into  the  yolk  mixture.  Turn  into  a  but^ 
terta  pudding-dish  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  to  a  delicate  brown. 
Serve  immediately. 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  543 

Prune  souffle  (delicious) 

Soak  eighteen  prunes  over  night  and  stew  tender.  Remove  the 
stones  and  chop  the  prunes  to  a  smooth  pulp.  Make  a  meringue 
of  the  whites  of  eight  eggs  and  seven  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered 
sugar.  Beat  the  prunes  into  this,  turn  into  a  greased  pudding- 
dish  and  bake  for  twenty  minutes.  Serve  immediately  with 
whipped  cream. 

Lemon  souffle 

Make  a  white  roux  of  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  the  same 
of  flour ;  heat  a  cupful  of  milk  to  the  boiling  point,  add  to  the 
roux  and  set  aside  to  cool ;  then  add  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  well 
beaten  with  powdered  sugar  and  the  juice  and  grated  rind  of  one 
lemon.  Just  before  putting*  into  the  oven  to  bake,  stir  in  lightly 
the  beaten  whites  of  the  eggs.  Bake  three-quarters  of  an  hour 
and  serve  with  whipped  cream  flavored  with  lemon  and  slightly 
sweetened. 

Orange  souffle 

(Contributed) 

Cut  stale  sponge  cake  into  small  cubes  and  saturate  with  orange 
juice.  Pour  into  a  dish  and  pour  over  it  rich  custard.  Cover 
with  a  good  meringue,  brown  nicely  and  serve. 

Bread  souffle 

Soak  a  pint  of  bread-crumbs  for  two  hours  in  a  quart  of  rich 
milk.  Beat  hard  until  you  have  a  soft  mass.  Stir  into  this  the 
yolks  of  four  beaten  eggs,  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter  and, 
last  of  all,  the  stiffened  whites  of  six  eggs.  Pour  into  a  greased 
pudding-dish  and  bake  for  forty  minutes  in  a  steady  oven.  Serve 
immediately  with  a  sweet,  hot  custard  sauce  made  of  the  remain- 
ing yolks  of  the  eggs. 

Boiled  rice  with  milk  and  egg 

Wash  a  cupful  of  rice  and  cook  in  an  abundance  of  boiling  water 
slightly  salted  until  tender,  but  not  pasty.  Drain  off  every  drop 


544  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

of  the  water,  shaking  the  rice  in  a  colander.  Return  the  cereal 
to  the  fire  in  a  double  boiler  and  stir  into  it  a  quart  of  boiling  milk, 
into  which  three  beaten  eggs  have  been  gradually  whipped.  Cook 
gently  for  a  few  minut'es,  or  until  much  of  the  milk  has  been  ab- 
sorbed. Eat  with  sugar  and  cream. 

Banana  souffle 

Peel  and  chop  very  fine  five  bananas.  Into  a  pint  of  whipped 
cream  stir  five  well-beaten  eggs,  then  stir  in  quickly  the  banana 
pulp.  Turn  into  a  soufHe-dish,  bake  in  a  quick  oven  until  brown 
and  light,  and  serve  immediately  with  sugar  and  cream. 

Chocolate  souffl6 

(Contributed) 

Cook  together  in  a  saucepan  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  two 
of  flour,  and  as  these  thicken  stir  into  them  six  tablespoonfuls  of 
sweet  milk.  Beat  thick  and  smooth,  then  pour  upon  the  yolks 
of  three  eggs  that  have  been  beaten  light  with  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  sugar.  Whip  hard,  adding  four  tablespoonfuls  of  grated 
sweetened  chocolate,  until  the  mixture  is  lukewarm ;  put  on  the 
ice  to  cool,  covering  it  to  keep  a  crust  from  forming  on  top. 
When  cold  add  the  stiffened  whites  of  the  eggs,  fold  these  in 
lightly  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  Serve  at  once  with  sweetened 
whipped  cream. 

FRITTERS 

IN  making  fritters  an  essential  to  their  success  is  that  the  fat 
in  which  they  are  fried  be  very  deep  and  boiling  hot.  Always 
test  it  by  dropping  into  it  a  small  spoonful  of  batter.  If  this  do 
not  rise  quickly  to  the  surface,  swell  rapidly,  and  acquire  a  light 
brown  hue,  your  fat  is  too  cool.  Let  it  stand  over  the  hottest  part 
of  the  range  for  a  few  minutes  and  again  test  it.  When  it  is  at 
the  right  temperature  fry  your  fritters  quickly,  dropping  in  the 
batter  by  the  spoonful.  When  done,  remove,  the  fritters  with  a 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  545 

perforated  spoon,  and  lay  them  in  a  heated  colander  lined  with 
brown  paper.  Transfer  to  a  hot  platter  covered  with  a  folded 
napkin  and  serve  at  once. 

Fritters  a  la  creme 

Stir  a  pinch  of  soda  into  a  pint  of  milk  and  heat  in  a  double 
boiler.  Wet  two  tablespoonfuls  of  corn-starch  with  cold  milk, 
and  when  dissolved  turn  it  into  the  hot  milk.  Stir  until  thick ; 
remove  from  the  fire,  and  beat  into  it  a  tablespoonful  of  melted 
butter,  three  beaten  eggs  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  Pour  into 
a  square  pan  and  set  aside  until  very  cold.  Cut  the  mixture  into 
small  triangles,  dip  into  batter,  and  fry  to  a  golden  brown.  Re- 
move the  fritters  very  carefully  from  the  fat,  as  they  are  tender 
and  break  easily.  Sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar. 

Apple  fritters 

Beat  the  yolks  and  whites  of  five  eggs  separately.  Into  the 
yolks  stir  three  generous  cupfuls  of  sweet  milk,  a  pinch  of  salt 
and  three  scant  cupfuls  of  flour,  sifted  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
baking-powder.  Beat  for  a  minute,  add  the  stiffened  whites  and, 
when  these  are  blended,  a  cupful  of  peeled  and  thinly-sliced  ap- 
ples. When  the  fritters  are  done  and  transferred  to  a  hot  dish, 
sprinkle  them  liberally  with  powdered  sugar  to  which  a  little 
cinnamon  has  been  added. 

Orange  fritters 

Make  a  plain  fritter  batter  with  two  eggs,  a  cupful  of  milk, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  sufficient  flour  to  make  a  batter  that 
will  pour  from  the  spoon,  or  coat  whatever  fruit  is  put  into  it. 
Peel  the  oranges  and  separate  into  sections,  taking  out  the  seeds. 
Dip  these  sections  into  the  batter,  covering  well,  and  slide  care- 
fully into  hot  <:ottolene  or  other  fat,  browning,  first  on  one  side, 
then  on  the  other.  They  can  be  served  with  sauce,  or  simply 
dusted  with  powdered  sugar.  If  served  as  a  dessert,  use  a  sauce. 
35 


546  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Apricot  fritters 

Peel  and  slice  fourteen  firm  apricots  and  lay  them  in  cold 
water  while  you  make  a  batter  of  the  following  ingredients: 
Four  eggs,  beaten  light,  a  half-pint  of  milk,  a  pinch  of  salt,  and 
a  heaping  cupful  of  flour  sifted  twice  with  a  teaspoonful  of  bak- 
ing-powder. 

Remove  the  apricots  from  the  water,  and  pat  them  dry  between 
the  folds  of  a  clean  dish  towel.  Beat  the  batter  hard,  stir  into  it 
the  fruit  and  fry  at  once.  Sprinkle  with  sugar  while  hot,  and 
serve  with  a  lemon  sauce.  Canned  apricots  may  be  used  for  this 
purpose,  every  drop  of  juice  being  removed. 

Peach  fritters 

Peel  and  slice  a  dozen  peaches,  and  stir  them  into  a  batter  made 
by  beating  together  three  whipped  eggs,  a  cupful  of  rich  milk, 
a  pinch  of  salt  and  a  cupful  of  prepared  flour.  Drop  this  mixture 
by  the  spoonful  into  deep,  boiling  fat.  When  the  fritters  are  of 
a  golden-brown  color,  drain  in  a  colander  and  sprinkle  with  pow- 
dered sugar.  Serve  very  hot. 

Rhubarb  fritters 

Scrape  the  stalks  of  the  rhubarb,  cut  into  quarter-inch  lengths ; 
stew  in  sugar  and  water  for  ten  minutes ;  drain  and  set  aside  to 
get  cold. 

Make  a  batter  of  a  half-pint  of  milk,  three  eggs,  beaten  light, 
and  a  cupful  of  prepared  flour.  Beat  hard  and  stir  into  this  bat- 
ter a  -cupful  of  the  rhubarb.  Drop  by  the  spoonful  into  deep, 
boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat,  and  fry  to  a  bright  brown.  Serve 
with  lemon  sauce. 


Banana  fritters  (No.  1) 


Whip  three  eggs  very  light  and  beat  into  them  a  cupful  of 
milk  and  a  cupful  of  flour  that  has  been  sifted  with  a  teaspoonful 
of  baking-powder  and  a  saltspoonful  of  salt.  Cut  six  bananas 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  547 

into  small  bits,  stir  these  into  the  batter,  and  drop  by  the  spoon- 
ful into  deep,  boiling  cottolene  or  other  fat.  When  golden  brown, 
drain  in  a  colander  lined  with  tissue-paper.  Sprinkle  with  pow- 
dered sugar,  and  serve  hot. 

Banana  fritters  (No.  2) 

Peel  and  cut  bananas  lengthwise  into  thick  slices.  Squeeze 
over  them  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice,  then  turn  over  and  squeeze 
juice  on  the  under  side.  Dry  between  soft  cloths,  and  dip  into 
fritter  batter,  coating  each  slice  thoroughly.  Fry  in  deep,  boil- 
ing cottolene  or  other  fat  to  a  light  brown. 

Swiss  fritters 

Slice  stale  bread  nearly  an  inch  thick,  cut  round  with  a  cake- 
cutter,  and  fry  quickly  in  deep  hot  cottolene  or  other  fat.  Drop 
each  round,  as  soon  as  done,  into  boiling  water  for  one  second,  to 
remove  superfluous  grease.  Spread  the  fritters,  as  fast  as  they 
are  fried  and  dipped,  with  powdered  sugar,  wet  up  with  lemon 
juice.  Cover  and  keep  hot  until  needed. 

Almond  roulettes 

Make  a  paste  of  twenty-five  blanched  and  chopped  almonds, 
a  pint  of  fine  bread-crumbs,  a  teaspoonful  of  extract  of  bitter 
almonds,  the  whipped  whites  of  two  eggs  and  a  heaping  teaspoon- 
ful of  cornstarch.  Form  into  balls,  and  set  these  in  the  ice-box 
for  an  hour.  Make  a  batter  of  a  cupful  of  lukewarm  water,  a 
pinch  of  salt,  the  frothed  white  of  an  egg,  and  a  cupful  of  pre- 
pared flour.  Take  the  balls  of  nut-paste  from  the  ice-chest,  dip 
each  ball  in  the  batter,  rolling  it  about  until  thoroughly  coated, 
and  fry  in  boiling  butter.  Serve  with  a  cream  sauce. 

Sweet  potato  fritters 

Boil,  skin,  and  dry  in  an  open  oven.  Mash  while  warm,  and 
rub  through  a  colander,  or  a  vegetable  press.  Stir  into  a  pint  of 


548  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

potatoes  a  cupful  of  milk,  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  a  little  salt 
and  two  tablespoonful s  of  sugar ;  finally,  the  yolks  of  two  beaten 
eggs.  With  floured  hands  shape  into  flat  cakes,  dip  into  the 
frothed  whites,  then  in  cracker-crumbs,  repeating  the  process. 
Leave  upon  ice  two  hours  and  fry  in  deep,  boiling  cottolene  or 
other  fat  to  a  golden  brown. 
Eat  with  lemon  sauce. 


PANCAKES   AND    DUMPLINGS 

Risen  pancakes 

MAKE  a  sponge  of  a  quart  of  flour,  a  half-cake  of  compressed 
yeast  dissolved  in  a  little  water,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Set 
to  rise  all  night ;  in  the  morning  beat  in  three  well- whipped  eggs 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter.  Bake  on  a  soapstone 
griddle. 

Jersey  pancakes 

Four  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  mixed  with  sufficient 
milk  to  make  a  good  batter.  Add  the  beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs, 
and  salt  to  taste;  lastly,  add  the  well-beaten  whites  of  the  eggs. 
Melt  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  pour  in  batter 
until  the  bottom  of  the  pan  is  thinly  covered.  Bake  brown  on 
both  sides.  When  done,  fold  like  an  omelet,  strewing  sugar  sea- 
soned with  powdered  cinnamon  between  the  folds. 

Italian  pancakes 

Make  a  batter  of  a  cupful  of  milk,  three  eggs  beaten  light,  a 
saltspoonful  of  salt,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salad  oil,  two  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  sugar  and  a  half  cupful  of  white  flour.  Beat  hard  and 
set  aside  for  an  hour.  Put  a  little  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and 
when  very  hot  pour  in  enough  batter  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the 
pan.  When  brown  on  one  side,  turn  and  brown  on  the  other. 
Spread  with  jelly;  roll  and  sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar. 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL   SORTS  549 

Jelly  pancakes 

Make  a  batter  of  five  beaten  eggs,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted 
butter,  three  cupfuls  of  milk,  and  about  a  quart  of  prepared  flour. 
Mix  well  and  fry  in  a  large  frying-pan  in  which  a  little  butter 
has  been  melted.  The  batter  should  cover  the  entire  bottom  of 
the  pan.  When  brown  on  one  side,  turn.  When  done,  spread 
with  fruit  jelly,  and  roll  up  as  you  would  a  sheet  of  music. 
Sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar,  and  send  at  once  to  the  table. 

Cherry  dumplings 

Into  a  pint  of  prepared  flour  chop  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of 
butter,  stir  in  a  cupful  of  milk  and  work  into  a  dough.  Roll  into 
a  sheet,  and  cut  into  squares  about  four  inches  across.  In  the 
center  of  each  square  put  a  great  spoonful  of  stoned  and  sugared 
cherries,  pinch  the  four  corners  of  the  pastry  together  in  the 
middle  over  the  cherries  and  lay  the  dumplings,  joined  sides 
down,  in  a  floured  baking-pan.  Bake  and  eat  hot  with  a  hard 
sauce. 

Raspberry  dumplings 

Make  a  dough  of  a  quart  of  flour  sifted  with  a  half  teaspoonful 
of  salt  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  butter  chopped  into  bits,  and  a  pint  of  milk. 

Roll  this  dough  out  and  cut  into  pieces  about  five  inches  square. 
In  the  middle  of  each  of  these  squares  put  a  heaping  tablespoon- 
ful of  black  raspberries,  sprinkle  liberally  with  sugar,  and  turn 
over  upon  them  the  four  corners  of  the  dough  square,  pinching 
them  together  in  the  middle.  Put  in  the  oven  and  bake  for  half 
an  hour. 

Apple  dumplings 

Sift  an  even  quart  of  flour  twice  with  one  and  a  half  teaspoon- 
fuls of  baking-powder,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Chop  into 
this  a  tablespoonful  of  cottolene  or  other  fat  and  one  of  butter. 
Mix  into  a  soft  dough  with  two  cupfuls  of  milk ;  roll  out  into  a 
sheet  a  scant  half-inch  thick,  and  cut  into  squares  about  five  inches 


550  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

each  way.  Lay  in  the  center  of  each  a  large  tart  apple,  pared  and 
cored.  Fill  the  space  left  by  coring  with  sugar,  fold  the  corners 
together,  enveloping  the  apple,  tie  up  in  cheese-cloth  squares, 
dipped  into  hot  water,  and  well  floured  on  the  inside.  Have  ready 
a  pot  of  boiling  water.  Drop  in  the  dumplings  and  cook  fast  one 
hour.  Dip  each  for  one  second  in  cold  water  to  loosen  the  cloth, 
turn  out  upon  a  hot  dish  and  eat  with  hard  sauce. 

Peach  dumplings 

Make  as  you  would  apple  dumplings,  substituting  for  the  cored 
apple  a  stoned  peach,  the  cavity  filled  with  sugar,  then  the  halves 
neatly  fitted  together.  They  are  very  good. 

Suet  dumplings 

Rub  a  cupful  of  white  suet  free  from  strings,  and  powder  it 
fine.  Rub  and  chop  it  into  two  cupfuls  of  fine  crumbs.  Sift  a 
teaspoonful  of  baking-powder  three  times  with  four  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  flour,  and  work  into  the  crumbs  and  suet.  Add  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt.  Beat  three  eggs  very  light  and  stir  into  a  cupful  and 
a  half  of  milk.  With  this  wet  crumbs  and  flour  into  a  rather  stiff 
dough.  Make  into  dumplings  with  floured  hands ;  tie  up  in 
cheese-cloth  dipped  in  hot  water  and  floured  on  the  inside,  leaving 
plenty  of  room  to  swell,  and  boil  one  hour. 

Eat  with  liquid  sauce. 

Cornmeal  dumplings 

Scald  a  quart  of  milk,  stir  in  three  cupfuls  of  Indian  meal,  or 
enough  to  make  a  stiff  dough ;  cook  for  five  minutes,  stirring 
often  from  the  bottom.  Take  from  the  fire ;  beat  in  one-half 
cupful  of  powdered  suet  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  let  it  get 
perfectly  cold.  Then  add  three  eggs  beaten  light  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  and,  lastly,  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  sifted 
three  times  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder.  Make 
out  into  balls  the  size  of  an  egg  with  floured  hands,  envelop  in 
cheese-cloth  squares,  prepared  as  directed  in  preceding  recipes. 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  551 

The  dumplings  will  double  their  size  in  boiling,  so  make  allow- 
ances in  tying  them  up. 

Boil  one  hour  hard.  Dip  into  cold  water  for  a  second,  turn 
out  and  eat  with  hard  sauce. 

Orange  dumplings 

Chop  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  into  two  cupfuls  of  flour  which 
has  been  twice  sifted  with  one  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder  and 
a  quarter-teaspoonful  of  salt.  Mix  with  a  cupful  of  milk  to  a 
soft  dough,  and  roll  this  into  a  sheet  a  half-inch  thick;  cut  into 
squares ;  lay  in  each  a  peeled,  sliced  and  seeded  orange,  and 
sprinkle  thickly  with  sugar.  Envelop  in  cheese-cloth  squares  as 
already  directed,  and  proceed  as  with  other  fruit  dumplings. 


SOME    PUDDING   SAUCES 

Cream  sauce 

WORK  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  half  cupful  of  sugar, 
then  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs  and  a  cupful  of  rich  cream,  to 
which  a  pinch  of  soda  has  been  added.  Cook  altogether,  stirring 
constantly  in  a  double  boiler,  until  like  thick  cream  and  very 
smooth ;  add  a  generous  wineglassful  of  sherry,  and  serve.  This 
is  a  delicious  pudding  sauce. 

Chocolate  sauce 

Boil  together  a  half  cupful  of  sugar  and  a  cupful  of  water  for 
five  minutes ;  stir  in  four  tablespoonfuls  of  chocolate  dissolved  in 
a  gill  of  milk,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  arrowroot  dissolved  in  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water.  Boil  for  five  minutes  longer,  stir- 
ring steadily,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  and  a  dash  of  cinnamon, 
and  serve. 


552  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Hard  sauce 

Work  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  a  cupful  of  powdered 
sugar  to  a  white  cream,  then  beat  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  a 
pinch  of  nutmeg.  Set  in  a  cold  place  until  needed. 

Canned  fruit  sauce 

Heat  with  additional  sugar,  one  large  cupful  of  any  kind  of 
fruit  juice  or  syrup  left  from  canning.  If  fresh  fruit  juice  is 
used,  more  sugar  will  be  needed  than  for  the  syrup.  About  one- 
half  cupful  of  sugar  to  each  cupful  of  juice  is  an  average  amount. 
Mix  one  teaspoonful  of  cornstarch  with  the  sugar,  or  wet  it  with 
the  liquid  if  syrup  is  used,  also  one  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Boil 
all  together  for  five  minutes. 

Meringue  sauce 

Rub  to  a  light  cream  one-half  cupful  of  butter  with  one  cupful 
of  powdered  sugar.  When  light  and  almost  snow  white,  add 
gradually  two  tablespoonfuls  of  fruit  juice  or  syrup,  and,  just 
before  serving,  one-fourth  of  a  cupful  of  boiling  water,  and  the 
white  of  an  egg  beaten  to  a  froth. 

Lemon  sauce 

Cook  for  fifteen  minutes  one  cupful  of  sugar  with  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  boiling  water,  a  half  teaspoonful  of  grated  lemon 
peel,  and  the  strained  juice  of  a  lemon. 

Take  from  the  fire,  and  pour  gradually  upon  the  beaten  yolks 
of  three  eggs.  Set  in  boiling  water  and  stir  until  the  eggs  are 
"set,"  but  not  until  they  begin  to  harden. 

Caramel  sauce 

Put  a  cupful  of  sugar  into  a  saucepan  and  stir  over  the  fire, 
until  melted  and  light  brown.  Add  one  cupful  of  boiling  water 
and  let  it  simmer  gently  for  ten  minutes.  When  cool  stir  in  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla. 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL  \  555 

Jelly  sauce 

Put  into  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  one  cupful  o\ 
one-half  cupful  of  jelly,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  s\ 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter.     When  melted  stir  into  it\ 
of  cornstarch   dissolved   in  One-half  cupful  of  cola  ^ 

let  it  come  to  a  boil.    Keep  warm  over  hot  water  un,  •_.  ready  to 
use. 

Foamy  sauce 

To  the  beaten  whites  of  two  eggs  add  one  cupful  of  sugar. 
Beat  thoroughly  and  add  one  cupful  of  boiling  milk.  When  cool 
add  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 

Maraschino  sauce 

Put  into  a  saucepan  three-fourths  of  a  cupful  of  boiling  water 
and  one-third  of  a  cupful  of  sugar.  Add  one-fourth  of  a  cupful 
of  Maraschino  cherries  cut  f  in  halves,  one-half  cupful  of 
Maraschino  syrup  and  one-half  tablespoonful  of  butter.  When 
this  comes  to  a  boil,  stir  in  slowly  two  teaspoonfuls  of  corn- 
starch  dissolved  in  a  little  cold  water.  Boil  for  five  minutes. 

Vanilla  sauce 

Add  one  well-beaten  egg  to  one-half  pint  of  milk.  Sweeten 
to  taste.  Pour  the  mixture  into  a  double  boiler  and  cook  over 
water  until  it  begins  to  thicken;  take  from  the  fire  and  add  one 
teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  Serve  hot. 

Apricot  sauce 

(Contributed) 

Rub  three-fourths  of  a  cupful  of  apricots  through  a  sieve. 
Whip  three-fourths  of  a  cupful  of  heavy  cream,  sweetened  and 
flavored.  When  stiff  and  dry,  add  the  apricot  pulp. 


MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Plain  whipped  cream 
(Contributed) 

Add  to  one  cupful  of  "double"  cream,  one-half  .cupful  of  pow- 
dered sugar,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  or  vanilla.  Put  in  a 
bowl  and  set  in  a  larger  bowl  of  cracked  ice.  Chill  the  whip,  for 
everything  must  be  very  cold ;  whip  until  stiff  and  dry,  then  add 
the  beaten  white  of  one  egg. 

Strawberry  sauce 

Boil  together  for  ten  minutes  three-fourths  of  a  cupful  of 
sugar  and  one-half  cupful  of  water.  Run  through  a  vegetable 
press  one  pint  of  strawberries,  and  when  the  syrup  is  cool,  add 
the  strawberry  pulp  and  one-half  teaspoonful  of  vanilla. 

Madeira  sauce 

Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  into  a  saucepan.  Stir  into  it 
one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  cook  for  one  minute ;  add  one  pint 
of  boiling  water,  stirring  all  the  time,  until  it  boils.  Next,  add 
one-half  cupful  of  sugar  and  one  tablespoonful  of  caramel.  Let 
it  stand  over  boiling  water  for  ten  minutes  and  just  before  serv- 
ing add  one-fourth  of  a  cupful  of  Madeira  wine. 

Claret  sauce 
(Contributed) 

Make  a  syrup  by  boiling  one  cupful  of  sugar  and  one-third  of 
a'  cup  of  water.  When  cold  add  one-third  of  a  cupful  of  claret. 

Brandy  sauce  (liquid) 

Work  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  into  two  cupfuls  of  pow- 
dered sugar,  moistening  with  boiling  water.  Beat  hard  for  five 
minutes,  and  set  within  a  saucepan  of  water  at  a  hard  boil.  Stir 
until  scalding  hot,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  cornstarch  wet  in  cold 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  555 

water,  cook  one  minute  and  pour  in  a  glass  of  good  brandy. 
Take  at  once  from  the  fire. 


Wine  sauce  (liquid) 

Make  as  just  directed,  but  using  wine  in  place  of  brandy. 

COLD  PUDDINGS  AND  CUSTARDS 

BESIDES  the  ordinary  baked  and  boiled  custards,  there  are  many 
varieties  which  are  easily  prepared,  and  are  delicious,  as  well  as 
digestible.  The  milk  of  which  these  are  made  should  always 
have  added  to  it  a  bit  of  soda  the  size  of  a  pea  to  prevent  curdling. 
I  shall  not  mention  this  in  the  following  recipes,  as  I  shall  take 
it  for  granted  that  the  precaution  has  been  taken. 

Boiled  cup  custards 

Heat  a  quart  of  milk  in  a  double  boiler,  but  do  not  bring  it 
quite  to  the  boil.  Beat  five  eggs  light  and  stir  into  them  half  a  cup- 
ful of  sugar.  On  this  mixture  pour  the  scalding  milk  very  grad- 
ually, beating  steadily  all  the  time.  Return  to  the  double  boiler, 
and  cook,  stirring  constantly,  until  the  custard  is  thick  enough  to 
coat  the  spoon.  If  boiled  longer  than  this  it  will  curdle  and  sepa- 
rate. Remove  the  custard  from  the  fire,  season  with  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  vanilla  and  set  aside  to  cool.  When  cold,  nearly 
fill  glasses  or  cups  with  the  mixture  and  heap  with  a  meringue 
made  by  whipping  the  whites  of  two  eggs  stiff  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

Baked  custard 

Proceed  exactly  as  in  the  preceding  recipe  until  you  have 
poured  the  hot  milk  on  the  sugar  and  eggs.  At  this  point  flavor 
the  mixture  with  two  teaspoonfuls  of  vanilla,  and  turn  it  into 
a  pudding-dish.  Grate  nutmeg  over  the  top  of  the  custard,  set 
the  pudding-dish  in  an  outer  pan  of  boiling  water,  and  bake  in 
a  moderate  oven.  When  the  custard  is  firm  it  is  done. 


556  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Boiled  chocolate  custards 
(Contributed) 

Scald  a  quart  of  milk  in  a  double  boiler,  and  stir  into  it  a  bit 
of  soda  the  size  of  a  pea.  Beat  five  eggs  light  with  a  half  cupful 
of  powdered  sugar,  and  whip  into  them  five  tablespoonfuls  of 
grated  chocolate.  Pour  the  scalding  milk  upon  this  mixture, 
return  it  to  the  fire  in  a  double  boiler,  and  cook,  stirring  con- 
stantly until  it  thickens  and  coats  the  spoon.  Remove  from  the 
fire  and  flavor  with  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  When  cold,  pour 
into  custard  cups  or  glasses,  and  heap  sweetened  whipped  cream 
upon  the  top  of  each. 

Baked  chocolate  custard 

Into  a  quart  of  scalding  milk  stir  five  tablespoonfuls  of  grated 
chocolate  wet  with  cold  milk.  Cook  for  a  minute.  Have  the 
yolks  of  seven  eggs  and  the  whites  of  five  (reserving  the  other 
whites  for  a  meringue)  beaten  light  with  a  cupful  of  sugar. 
Pour  the  scalding  milk  and  chocolate  gradually  on  the  eggs  and 
sugar,  and  turn  into  a  buttered  pudding-dish  set  in  a  pan  of 
boiling  water.  Bake  until  firm,  then  draw  to  the  door  of  the 
oven  and  spread  with  a  meringue  made  of -the  reserved  whites 
and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar.  Return  to  the  oven 
and  bake  to  a  delicate  brown.  Eat  cold  with  cream. 

French  tapioca  custard 

Soak  four  tablespoonfuls  of  tapioca  in  two  cupfuls  of  cold 
water  and  let  it  stand  for  four  hours;  add  a  quart  of  scalding 
milk,  and  stir  for  a  minute.  Turn  all  into  a  double  boiler,  and 
bring  to  the  scalding  point, 'then  pour  gradually  upon  the  yolks 
of  four  eggs  beaten  light  with  a  cupful  of  sugar.  Cook  again  in 
a  double  boiler  for  ten  minutes,  by  which  time  the  custard  should 
be  thick.  Set  in  the  ice  until  very  cold.  Now  whip  the  whites 
of  the  four  eggs  stiff,  beat  them  into  the  custard,  add  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  vanilla,  tvirn  into  a  glass  bowl,  and  serve. 


DINNER   SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  557 

Tapioca  cocoanut  custard 

Make  as  directed  in  last  recipe,  but  add  to  the  beaten  whites 
at  the  last  a  cupful  of  finely-grated  cocoanut  sweetened  with 
powdered  sugar. 

Floating  island 

Heat  a  pint  of  milk  to  scalding  in  a  double  boiler.  Beat  the 
yolks  of  three  eggs  stiff — setting  the  whites  in  the  ice-box  until 
they  are  needed  for  a  meringue.  Into  the  whipped  yolks  stir 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  granulated  sugar,  and  pour  the  scalding 
milk  gradually  upon  these.  Return  to  the  fire  and  cook,  stirring 
all  the  time,  until  the  custard  is  thick  enough  to  coat  the  spoon. 
Remove  from  the  fire,  and,  when  the  custard  is  cool,  flavor  with 
a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  and  turn  into  a  glass  bowl.  Whip  the 
chilled  whites  to  a  stiff  meringue  and  beat  into  this,  a  little  at  a 
time,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  red  jelly — catawba  grape  or  currant. 
The  meringue  should  be  pink  in  color,  and  may  be  heaped  upon 
the  top  of  the  custard  in  the  bowl. 

Rice  custard 

Cream  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  with  two  of  powdered  sugar, 
and  gradually  work  in  three  beaten  eggs.  Add  two  cupfuls  of 
milk,  and  when  you  have  a  smooth  mixture,  two  cupfuls  of  cold, 
boiled  rice.  Beat  until  free  from  lumps,  add  a  pinch  of  salt,  and 
turn  into  a  greased  pudding-dish.  Set  in  the  oven  in  a  pan  of 
boiling  water,  and  bake,  covered,  until  the  custard  is  set.  Uncover 
and  brown.  Eat  cold  with  sugar  and  cream. 

i 

Cocoanut  custard 

Wet  five  tablespoonfuls  of  cornstarch  with  cold  milk,  and 
stir  it  into  a  quart  of  scalding  milk  until  thick  and  free  of  lumps. 
Whip  six  eggs  light  with  a  cupful  of  sugar,  and  add  gradually  to 
the  thickened  milk.  Cook  for  five  minutes ;  add,  at  once,  a  grated 
cocoanut,  and  take  from  the  fire.  Flavor  with  a  teaspoonful  of 


558  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

rose-water,  and  when  it  begins  to  cool,  .pour  into  a  glass  bowl. 
When  cold,  eat  with  sugar  and  cream. 

Orange  custard 
(Contributed) 

Squeeze  out  and  strain  the  juice  of  six  good  oranges.  Add  a 
cupful  of  sugar  and  cook  slowly  for  half  an  hour,  skimming  often. 
Take  from  the  fire  and  turn  into  a  bowl.  When  lukewarm,  pour 
gradually,  beating  all  the  time,  upon  a  warm  custard  made  of  the 
yolks  of  five  eggs  and  two  cupfuls  of  milk.  Put  in  your  egg- 
whip  and  beat  steadily  five  minutes.  Turn  into  a  glass  bowl,  and 
lay  upon  the  top  a  meringue  made  by  whipping  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  with  five  tablespoon fuls  of  powdered  sugar.  Set  upon  ice 
until  very  cold. 

Coffee  custards 

Into  a  quart  of  rich  custard  cooked  and  still  warm  stir  a  pint 
of  very  strong,  clear,  hot,  black  coffee.  Beat  for  five  minutes 
until  thick  and  creamy.  Fill  glasses  or  custard  cups  with  it,  and 
heap  whipped  cream  on  top  of  each.  Set  in  cracked  ice  until  you 
serve. 

Cinnamon  custard 
(Contributed) 

Bring  a  quart  of  milk  to  the  boiling  point.  Add  a  saltspoon 
of  salt,  a  piece  of  cinnamon  stick  and  three  ounces  of  sugar. 
Strain,  and  when  cold  mix  with  two  or  three  well-beaten  eggs. 
Pour  into  a  pudding-dish  and  cover  the  top  of  the  dish  with 
slices  of  brown  bread,  buttered  on  both  sides  and  cut  in  triangu- 
lar pieces.  Bake  iri  a  slow  oven  and  serve  with  hot  sauce. 


WHIPPED    CREAM   DISHES 

THE  easiest  and  most  rapid  way  to  whip  cream  is  with  an  or- 
dinary, old-fashioned  wire  egg-whip.  Put  the  cream  into  a  shal- 
low dish  and  set  in  the  ice-box  until  thoroughly  chilled.  Into  a 


WHIPPED    CREAM    GARNISHED    WITH 
MARASCHINO  CHERRIES 


MERINGUE  GLACE  AND  WHIPPED  CREAM 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  559 

half-pint  stir  two  teaspoonfuls  of  sugar  and  begin  at  once  to  beat 
with  regular,  steady  strokes,  not  removing  the  froth  as  it  forms, 
but  whipping  until  the  cream  is  a  thick,  stiff,  smooth  mass.  If 
the  cream  is  cold,  if  the  utensils  are  chilled,  and  the  room  is  not 
too  warm,  the  desired  effect  may  be  produced  in  ten  minutes.  I 
have  done  it  in  five.  When  the  sillibub  has  reached  the  right 
consistency  add  a  teaspoonful  of  such  flavoring  as  you  desire.  A 
half-pint  of  cream  whips  to  a  pint. 

Orange  cream 

Soak  a  half -package  of  gelatine  in  a  cupful  of  cold  water  for 
an  hour,  then  stir  it  into  a  cupful  of  boiling  water.  Have  ready 
the  juice  of  two  oranges  and  the  grated  rind  of  one,  and  pour 
over  them  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  the  hot  liquid  gelatine.  Set  at 
the  side  of  the  range  while  you  beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  stiff. 
Strain  the  hot  liquid  and  pour,  a  very  little  at  a  time,  upon  the 
beaten  yolks,  stirring  constantly.  Heat  again  in  a  double  boiler, 
beating  all  the  while,  and  as  soon  as  the  custard  reaches  the 
boiling  point  remove  and  set  aside  to  cool.  When  cold  and 
thick,  beat  into  it  a  pint  of  whipped  cream. 

Chestnuts  with  whipped  cream 

Shell  and  boil  Spanish  chestnuts,  remove  the  skins  and  rub  the 
nuts  through  a  colander.  Sweeten  to  taste  and  beat  to  a  soft 
paste  with  a  little  cream.,  Form  the  mixture  into  a  pyramid  in 
the  center  of  a  chilled  platter,  and  heap  sweetened,  whipped 
cream  around  it. 

Prune  Charlotte 

Stew  a  dozen  and  a  half  large  prunes ;  when  cold,  remove  the 
stones  and  chop  fine.  Whip  a  pint  of  cream  very  stiff  with  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  then  whip  the  minced  prunes  into  this. 
Line  a  glass  dish  with  lady-fingers,  or  thin  slices  of  sponge  cake, 
and  fill  the  center  with  the  prune  cream.  Set  in  the  ice-box  until 
time  to  serve. 


560  ,         MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Fruited  whipped  cream 

Whip  a  pint  of  cream  stiff,  sweeten  abundantly  and  stir  into  it 
lightly  a  cup  of  whole  strawberries,  a  banana  peeled,  and  cut  into 
dice  an  orange,  treated  in  the  same  way,  and  a  cup  of  finely- 
minced  pineapple.  Serve  very  cold.  As  the  fruits  are  acid,  the 
cream  should  be  very  sweet. 

Peach  sponge 

Mash  two  quarts  of  peeled  and  cut-up  peaches.  Strew  sugar 
over  them,  and  let  them  stand  for  an  hour  to  draw  out  the  juice. 
Put  the  fruit  through  a  vegetable  press  and  extract  all  the  juice. 
Soak  a  box  of  gelatine  in  cold  water  until  dissolved,  add  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  heat  to  scalding.  Now  stir  in  the 
peach  juice,  remove  from  the  fire,  and  strain.  When  cool,  set  the 
bowl  containing  the  mixture  in  a  pan  of  ice,  and  beat  into  it  a  pint 
of  whipped  cream.  When  very  stiff  turn  into  a  mold  to  form. 

Peach  tapioca 

Soak  a  cup  of  tapioca  over  night.  Peel  and  cut  up  ten  peaches  ; 
add  a  cup  of  sugar  and  stew  until  tender.  Boil  the  tapioca  in  two 
cups  of  water  until  clear,  then  stir  the  steweT^eaches  into  it.  Re- 
move from  the  fire,  add  the  juice  of  a  small  lemon  and  set  away 
to  cool.  Eat  with  whipped  cream. 

Strawberry  float 

Mash  two  quarts  of  berries  and  strain  off  the  juice.  Sweeten 
this  and  add  it  to  a  pint  of  very  rich  cream.  Whip  the  whites  of 
four  eggs  stiff  with  six  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  and 
beat  in  the  mashed  berries.  Put  the  pink  cream  in  the  bottom  of 
a  glass  bowl  and  heap  the  strawberry  meringue  high  upon  it. 

Raspberry  float 

May  be  made  according  to  the  foregoing  recipe,   substituting 
raspberries  for  strawberries. 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  *  561 

Pineapple  Charlotte 

Grate  or  chop  a  pineapple  very  fine,  after  peeling  it  and  remov- 
ing the  "eyes."  Soak  a  half-box  of  gelatine  for  an  hour  in  a 
half  cupful  of  cold  water,  then  add  a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar 
and  a  cupful  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  over  the  fire  just  long 
enough  to  dissolve  the  gelatine.  As  the  mixture  cools  add  the 
pineapple ;  set  the  bowl  containing  it  in  a  vessel  of  cracked  ice, 
and  stir  steadily  until  the  mixture  thickens.  Now  beat  in  a  pint 
of  sweetened,  whipped  cream  and  turn  into  a  mold  wet  with  cold 
water.  When  formed,  eat  with  powdered  sugar  and  cream. 

Apple  snow 

Stew  peeled  and  sliced  apples  until  they  are  so  soft  that  they 
can  be  rubbed  through  a  colander.  There  should  be  a  pint  of 
this  apple  sauce.  Set  aside  until  cold.  Beat  the  whites  of  three 
eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  into  this  beat  the  apples  by  the  spoonful, 
alternately  with  a  cupful  of  powdered  sugar.  When  very  stiff, 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  turn  into  chilled  glasses,  heap 
whipped  cream  upon  the  top,  and  serve. 

Marrons  with  whipped  cream 

Chop  half  a  bottle  of  marrons  and  put  a  teaspoonful  in  the  bot- 
tom of  each  glass  custard  cup.  Pour  a  little  of  the  liquor  in  which 
they  were  put  upon  these,  and  fill  the  glasses  with  whipped  cream. 
Set,  in  cracked  ice  until  served. 

Whipped  cream  with  macaroons 

Crush  stale  almond  macaroons  fine,  and  beat  into  whipped 
cream  just  before  serving.  Heap  in  a  chilled  bowl,  sift  maca- 
roon-crumbs thickly  on  top,  and  serve. 


562  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Orange  and  cocoanut  delight 

Use  very  sweet  oranges  for  this  dish,  and  do  not  try  dried 
cocoanut.  Buy  the  fresh  fruit,  and  grate  it. 

In  the  bottom  of  a  glass  bowl  put  a  layer  of  sliced  and  seeded 
oranges,  sprinkle  with  granulated  sugar,  and  then  with  a  layer 
of  the  grated  cocoanut.  On  this  put  a  generous  spoonful  of 
sweetened  and  whipped  cream.  Now  another  layer  of  the  su- 
gared oranges,  more  cocoanut  and  whipped  cream,  and  so  on 
until  the  dish  is  full.  The  top  layer  must  be  of  whipped  cream, 
heaped  high  in  the  center. 

Pineapple  snow 

Soak  a  half-box  of  gelatine  in  a  scant  cupful  of  cold  water  for 
an  hour.  Peel  a  small  pineapple,  and  grate  it ;  then  cover  with 
a  cup  of  sugar,  and  let  it  stand  for  an  hour  before  stirring  the 
soaked  gelatine  into  it.  Turn  all  into  a  saucepan  set  within  a 
pan  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  until  the  gelatine  and  sugar  are 
dissolved.  Remove  from  the  fire  and  let  it  cool,  but  riot  stiffen. 
Whip  a  pint  of  cream  very  stiff.  Stand  the  saucepan  containing 
the  gelatine  and  pineapple  in  a  deep  bowl  of  cracked  ice  and,  as 
the  mixture  stiffens,  beat  into  it,  by  the  spoonful,  the  whipped 
cream.  Beat  steadily  until  all  the  cream  is  in,  and  the  jelly  is 
stiff  and  white.  Turn  into  a  glass  bowl,  and  set  in  the  ice  for 
some  hours.  Serve  with  rich  cream. 


Raspberry  cream  sponge 

Mash  a  quart  of  red  raspberries,  and  stir  into  them  a  large 
cupful  of  granulated  sugar.  Soak  a  half  cupful  of  gelatine  in  a 
cupful  of  cold  water  for  an  hour.  Pour  upon  the  gelatine  a  cup- 
ful of  boiling  water.  Stir  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved,  then 
add  the  sweetened  berries.  Strain  all  through  a  muslin  bag, 
pressing  hard  to  extract  the  juice.  Turn  into  a  bowl  to  get  cool. 
When  cool,  set  the  bowl  in  an  outer  vessel  of  cracked  ice,  and 
as  the  jelly  stiffens,  beat  into  it,  by  the  spoonful,  a  pint  of  whipped 


DINNER   SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  563 

cream.     Beat  until  stiff  and  very  cold.     Set  in  the  ice  to  form. 
Serve  with  sweetened  cream. 


Banana  froth 

Whip  a  cupful  of  cream  stiff.  Rub  enough  bananas  through 
a  fine  sieve  to  make  a  cupful  of  pulp,  and  beat  this  at  once  into 
the  whipped  cream ;  add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar, 
and  beat  to  a  frothy  mass.  Line  a  glass  dish  with  almond  mac- 
aroons, fill  it  with  the  banana  cream,  and  sprinkle  this  generously 
with  tiny  bits  of  crystallized  cherries,  citron  and  blanched  and 
minced  almonds.  Serve  at  once.  Of  course,  the  fruits  and  nuts 
must  be  minced  and  made  ready  before  the  preparation  of  the 
banana  cream  is  begun. 

Macaroon  Charlotte  Kusse 

Soak  macaroons  in  custard  until  rather  soft,  but  not  broken, 
and  line  a  dish  with  them.  Beat  a  pint  of  cream  stiff,  and  stir 
into  it  half  a  cupful  of  blanched  and  chopped  almonds  and  the 
same  quantity  of  minced  citron.  Heap  this  upon  the  soaked 
macaroons. 

BLANC    MANGE 

Arrowroot  blanc  mange 

Put  half  a  pint  of  milk  into  a  double  boiler,  and  when  it  reaches 
the  scalding  point  stir  into  it  three  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  arrow- 
root which  have  been  dissolved  in  a  gill  of  cold  water.  Stir  un- 
til thick  and  smooth ;  remove  from  the  fire,  flavor  with  a  half- 
teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  and  pour  into  a  bowl  to  cool.  Set  in  the 
ice-box  until  needed.  Serve  with  powdered  sugar  and  cream. 

Vanilla  blanc  mange 

Soak  a  half-package  of  gelatine  in  enough  water  to  cover  it, 
and  at  the  end  of  two  hours  stir  into  it  a  half  cupful  of  sugar. 


564  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Add  this  to  a  pint  of  scalding  milk,  and  stir  until  the  gelatine  is 
dissolved;  remove  from  the  fire,  strain  and  flavor  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla.  Pour  into  wet  molds  to  form.  When  firm, 
serve  with  sweetened  whipped  cream. 

• 
Chocolate  blanc  mange  (No.  1) 

Soak  a  package  of  gelatine  in  a  half-pint  of  cold  milk  for  two 
hours.  Stir  a  pinch  of  soda  into  a  quart  of  rich  milk,  and  bring 
to  the  scalding  point  in  double  boiler.  Beat  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs  light  with  a  small  cupful  of  granulated  sugar.  Stir  the 
soaked  gelatine  into  the  hot  milk,  and  when  it  dissolves  pour  the 
hot  liquid  gradually  upon  the  yolks  and  sugar ;  then  whip  in  five 
tablespoonfuls  of  grated  chocolate  wet  to  a  paste  with  a  little  cold 
milk.  Put  all  into  a  double  boiler  and  cook,  stirring  all  the  time, 
until  the  boiling  point  is  just  reached.  Remove  at  once  from  the 
fire,  turn  into  a  bowl,  whip  in  the  stiffened  whites  of  the  eggs,  and 
a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  Pour  into  a  mold  wet  with  cold  water 
and  set  in  a  cool  place  to  form.  When  ready  to  serve,  wring  a 
cloth  out  in  hot  water,  wrap  it  for  a  moment  about  the  mold,  and 
turn  the  contents  out  upon  a  chilled  glass  dish.  Eat  with  pow- 
dered sugar  and  rich,  sweet  cream. 

Chocolate  blanc  mange  '(No.  2) 

Heat  a  pint  of  milk  and  add  to  it  a  pinch  of  soda.  Into  the 
milk  stir  a  half-cupful  of  sugar,  and,  when  this  is  dissolved,  two 
generous  tablespoonfuls  of  corn-starch  wet  with  cold  milk.  Cook 
until  smooth  and  very  thick;  add  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of 
grated  chocolate,  and  cook  for  a  minute  before  removing  from  the 
fire.  Stir  into  the  pudding  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  turn  into  a 
mold  wet  with  cold  water,  and  set  in  a  cold  place  to  form. 

Snow  pudding 

Soak  a  half -package  of  gelatine  for  two  hours  in  enough  water 
to  cover  it.  At  the  end  of  the  two  hours  add  to  the  gelatine  a 
cupful  of  granulated  sugar  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  pour 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  565 

upon  these  two  cupfuls  of  boiling-  water.  Stir  until  the  gelatine 
is  dissolved,  strain  and  set  aside  to  cool.  Beat  the  whites  of 
three  eggs  to  a  stiff  meringue,  and  when  the  jelly  is  cold  and  be- 
gins to  thicken,  whip  into  it  this  meringue.  Beat  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  minutes,  or  until  the  mixture  is  like  a  stiff  white  foam. 
Wet  a  mold  with  cold  water,  pour  the  jelly  into  this,  and  set  in 
the  ice.  When  you  are  ready  to  serve  the  pudding,  turn  it  out 
upon  a  chilled  dish,  and  eat  with  sugar  and  cream,  or  with  soft 
custard. 

Banana  blanc  mange 

Soak  a  tablespoonful  of  gelatine  for  an  hour  in  a  teacupful  of 
water.  Bring  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  milk  to  the  boiling  point, 
add  a  pinch  of  baking-soda,  and  stir  in  a  half  cupful  of  sugar  and 
the  soaked  gelatine.  Boil  for  five  minutes,  stirring  steadily. 
Line  a  jelly-mold  with  sliced  bananas  and  pour  the  lukewarm 
blanc  mange  carefully  in  upon  these.  Set  in  the  ice  to  form. 
Turn  out  and  eat  with  whipped  cream. 

Peach  sponge 

Soak  a  half-box  of  gelatine  for  two  hours.  Peel  and  slice  a 
dozen  peaches,  add  to  them  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  sugar  and 
a  half  cupful  of  water,  and  stew  until  the  fruit  is  broken  to 
pieces.  Now  stir  in  the  soaked  gelatine.  When  this  is  dissolved 
rub  all  through  a  coarse  sieve,  add  a  tablespoQnful  of  lemon  juice, 
and  when  the  mixture  is  cool  and  beginning  to  thicken  whip  in 
the  stiffened  whites  of  four  eggs.  Beat  steadily  for  fifteen  min- 
utes, and  turn  into  a  mold  to  form.  Serve  very  cold  with  whipped 
cream. 

Italian  cream 

Soak  half  a  box  of  gelatine  in  a  cupful  of  cold  water  for  an 
hour.  Heat  four  cupfuls  of  milk  in  a  double  boiler,  and  when 
hot  stir  into  them  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  beaten  light  with  half 
a  cupful  of  sugar.  Stir  over  the  fire  for  two  minutes,  add  the 
gelatine  and  keep  stirring  until  dissolved.  Take  from  the  fire, 
flavor  with  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  and  set  aside  to  cool.  Beat 


566  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

the  whites  of  the  eggs  stiff,  and  add  them  to  the  custard  when  it 
is  cold,  but  before  it  has  begun  to  form.  Turn  into  a  mold  wet 
with  cold  water  and  set  aside  to  form  firm. 


Pink  pudding 

Soak  a  package  of  gelatine  for  an  hour  in  a  cupful  of  cold 
water.  Mash  a  pint  of  ripe  strawberries  and  turn  upon  them  a 
cupful  of  granulated  sugar.  Pour  a  pint  of  boiling  water  upon 
the  gelatine,  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  dissolved ;  add  the  sugar 
and  mashed  berries,  and  strain  through  coarse  muslin.  When 
the  jelly  is  very  cold  whip  the  whites  of  five  eggs  to  a  stiff 
meringue  and  beat  the  jelly  into  them.  Turn  into  a  mold  and 
set  in  ice  to  form.  Serve  with  whipped  cream. 

Brown  mange 

Soak  a  half-box  of  gelatine  in  a  cupful  of  milk  for  three  hours. 
Stir  into  it  a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar,  and  pour  upon  it  a 
scant  quart  of  scalding — not  boiling — milk.  Add  a  half-cake  of 
grated  chocolate  wet  to  a  paste  with  milk.  '  Stir  over  the  fire  just 
long  enough  to  dissolve  the  gelatine  and  melt  the  chocolate,  but 
do  not  let  the  milk  boil.  Pour  the  hot  milk  gradually  upon  the 
stiffened  whites  of  four  eggs.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a  bowl  and 
set  this  in  a  pan  of  ice  while  you  beat  the  contents  long  and 
steadily — until  the  jelly  begins  to  stiffen.  Turn  into  a  glass  bowl 
and  set  on  the  ice  to  form.  When  cold  and  firm,  send  to  the  table 
with  great  spoonfuls  of  whipped  cream  upon  the  top  of  the  brown 
"mange." 

Rose  mange 

A  pretty  blanc  mange  may  be  made  according  to  the  foregoing 
recipe  by  omitting  tlje  chocolate  and  using  in  its  place  just  enough 
juice  from  preserved  strawberries  to  color  the  mixture  a  delicate 
pink.  When  the  whipped  cream  is  added  dot  the  white  surface 
with  a  few  of  the  preserved  berries. 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  56; 

Strawberry  sponge 

Soak  one-half  package  of  gelatine  in  one-half  cupful  of  cold 
water  for  two  hours.  Mash  one  quart  of  fine  strawberries  and 
add  one-half  cupful  of  sugar  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons.  Boil 
one-half  cupful  of  sugar  in  a  cupful  of  water  gently  for  twenty 
minutes.  Rub  the  strawberries  through  a  sieve.  Add  the  gela- 
tine to  the  boiling  syrup  and  take  from  the  fire  at  once.  Then 
add  the  strawberries,  pour  the  mixture  into  a  dish  set  in  cracked 
ice  and  beat  thoroughly  for  five  minutes.  Add  the  beaten  whites 
of  four  eggs  and  beat  until  the  mixture  begins  to  thicken.  Pour 
into  molds  and  set  away  until  firm. 

Cider  jelly 

Soak  one  package  of  gelatine  in  a  cupful  of  cold  water  for  two 
hours.  Add  three  cupfuls  of  sugar  and  the  juice  of  three  lem- 
ons ;  also  the  grated  rind  of  one  lemon.  Dissolve  this  in  one 
quart  of  boiling  water.  Then  add  one  pint  of  good  sweet  cider, 
strain,  pour  into  molds  and  let  it  stand  on  ice  for  several  hours. 

Junket 

Milk  is  indispensable  for  family  desserts,  forming  as  it  does 
the  basis  of  tender  custards  and  velvety  creams.  One  of  the 
most  delicious  of  the  metamorphoses  to  which  it  is  susceptible  is 
when,  by  the  addition  of  a  rennet  tablet,  it  is  changed  into  a  tender 
and  smooth  junket.  The  tablet  is  preferable  to  liquid  rennet, 
being  more  easily  carried  and  more  easily  kept. 

Flavor  a  quart  and  a  pint  of  fresh  milk  with  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  vanilla,  and  -then  mix  with  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  rennet. 
Stir  for  a  moment  and  put  into  a  warm  room  to  form.  As  soon 
as  the  milk  has  "set,"  put  the  dish  containing  it  in  the  ice-chest 
until  it  is  time  to  send  it  to  the  table.  Eat  with  sugar  and  cream. 
This  dessert  should  not  be  made  more  than  two  hours  before  it 
is  to  be  served,  as  long  standing  causes  the  milk  to  separate  and 
form  into  curds  and  whey. 


568  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Vanilla  junket 

Dissolve  one  rennet  tablet  in  a  tablespoonful  of  cold  water. 
Stir  this  into  a  quart  of  milk  that  is  just  lukewarm  and  has  been 
flavored  with  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract.  Set  in  a  warm 
room  until  firm,  then  put  into  the  ice-chest  until  needed.  This 
dessert  should  not  be  made  more  than  two  hours  before  the  meal 
for  which  it  is  intended,  as  long  standing  causes  it  to  break  and 
separate.  Eat  with  sugar  and  cream. 

» 

Coffee  junket  (very  nice) 

Dissolve  a  rennet  tablet  in  a  tablespoonful  of  water.  Into  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  milk  stir  a  gill  of  very  strong  black  coffee, 
liberally  sweetened.  Add  the  dissolved  rennet  and  turn  into  a 
glass  bowl.  Leave  in  a  cool  room  until  formed,  then  set  on  the 
ice  immediately.  Eat  with  sweetened  whipped  cream. 

Charlotte  Russe  (No.  1) 

Cut  a  stale  sponge  cake  into  slices  and  line  a  glass  bowl  with 
them.  Into  a  pint  of  chilled  cream  stir  half  a  cupful  of  pow- 
dered sugar  and  whip  until  stiff.  At  the  last,  beat  in  two  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  extract  of  vanilla.  Fill  the  bowl  with  the  whipped  cream 
and  set  in  the  ice-chest  until  wanted. 

Charlotte  Russe  (No.  2) 

Soak  a  quarter  of  a  box  of  gelatine  in  a  half  cupful  of  milk 
for  two  hours.  Stir  a  half-cupful  of  sugar  into  a  pint  of  cream 
and  whip  the  cream  until  stiff ;  then  flavor  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla.  Into  the  soaked  gelatine  beat  the  stiffened  whites  of 
three  eggs  and  the  sweetened  and  flavored  whipped  cream.  Beat 
hard  for  a  minute.  Line  a  glass  bowl  with  thin  slices  of  sponge 
cake,  and  heap  the  white  mixture  in  the  middle. 


DINNER   SWEETS    OF  ALL    SORTS  569 

: 

Banana  Charlotte 

In  a  double  boiler  heat  a  cupful  of  cream,  to  which  you  have 
added  a  pinch  of  soda.  Sweeten  slightly,  and  thicken  with  a 
heaping  teaspoonful  of  corn-starch  dissolved  in  a  gill  of  cold 
milk.  Keep  warm  over  hot  water — stirring  occasionally  to  pre- 
vent lumping — while  you  nearly  fill  a  bowl  with  alternate  layers 
of  sliced  bananas  and  very  thin  slices  of  sponge  cake — the  latter 
moistened  slightly  with  milk.  When  the  bowl  is  three-quarters 
full  pour  over  the  contents  the  thickened  cream  and  set  aside  to 
get  very  cold.  Fill  the  bowl  with  sweetened  whipped  cream, 
heap  it  high  and  serve. 

Pound  cake  trifle 

Cut  a  pound  cake  and  spread  each  slice  thickly  with  raspberry 
jam.  Lay  on  a  flat  dish,  and  heap  on  each  slice  a  great  spoonful 
of  meringue  made  by  whipping  the  whites  of  four  eggs  stiff, 
then  adding  sugar  and  currant  jelly  to  taste,  and  beating  into  a 
pink  mass.  Serve  with  cream. 

Peach  trifle 

Boil  together  for  five  minutes  one  cupful  of  sugar  and  one 
cupful  of  water.  Put  into  this  one  quart  of  pared  peaches.  Stir 
slowly  until  tender.  When  almost  cold  press  them  through 
a  sieve.  Line  a  deep  glass  dish  with  stale  sponge  cake  dipped 
in  sherry.  Spread  over  this  the  cold  peach  pulp.  Flavor  one 
and  a  half  cupfuls  of  thick  sweet  cream  with  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  powdered  sugar  and  one  teaspoonful,  each,  of  vanilla  and  lemon 
and  whip  until  thick  and  solid.  Pour  this  into  the  peaches  and 
let  it  stand  until  very  cold. 

Raspberry  trifle 

Line  the  bottom  of  a  deep  glass  dish  with  thin  slices  of  sponge 
cake.  Squeeze  over  it  a  little  raspberry  juice  and  cover  with  a 
thick  layer  of  whole  sweetened  red  raspberries.  Over  this  an- 


5-0  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

other  layer  of  the  cake  and  another  of  the  raspberries  until  the 
dish  is  filled  three-quarters  full.  Pour  over  all  this  a  plain  boiled 
custard  and  serve  very  cold. 

Rhubarb  trifle 

Cook  soft  two  cupfuls  of  rhubarb,  scraped  and  cut  into  inch 
lengths,  using  barely  enough  water  to  keep  it  from  scorching. 
Soak  a  half-ounce  of  gelatine,  and  when  ready  for  use  strain 
into  it  the  rhubarb  rubbed  through  a  sieve;  add  six  or  eight 
ounces  of  sugar  and  a  cupful  of  cream ;  stir  over  the  fire  until 
well  heated  through,  but  do  not  let  it  boil,  and  pour  into  a  wet 
mold.  Set  on  ice.  Serve  with  whipped  cream. 

Strawberry  Charlotte 

Mash  a  quart  of  ripe  "capped"  berries,  and  sweeten  abun- 
dantly. Beat  the  whites  of  four  eggs  stiff,  then  whip  in  the  ber- 
ries strained  through  a  sieve.  Beat  until  smooth  and  stiff.  Line 
a  chilled  dish  with  sponge  cake,  and  fill  with  the  pink  "whip." 
Dot  the  top  thickly  with  ripe  berries. 

Rice  blanc  mange 

Soak  a  quarter-box  of  gelatine  in  a  quarter-cupful  of  water  one 
hour ;  rub  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  rice  flour  in  a  little  cold  milk ; 
add  this  to  one  quart  of  scalding  milk;  stir  constantly  for  five 
minutes;  add  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  sugar  and  the  soaked  gela- 
tine ;  stir  for  one  minute,  then  add  the  grated  rind  of  one  lemon ; 
strain  this  into  a  bowl.  When  a  little  cool  mix  in  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  bitter  almond ;  turn  into  a  mold  that  has  been  wet  in 
cold  water ;  stand  in  a  cold  place  until  ready  to  serve. 

Tipsy  pudding 

Line  a  glass  dish  with  thin  slices  of  sponge  cake.  Moisten  the 
slices  with  sherry  or  some  other  good  wine.  Put  over  this  a 
layer  of  preserved  fruit,  another  layer  of  cake  and  another  of 


DINNER    SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  571 

fruit,  and  so  on  until  the  dish  is  filled.     Pour  over  the  whole  a 

quart  of  rich  boiled  custard. 

i 

Strawberry  sillibub 

Line  a  glass  bowl  with  thin  slices  of  sponge  cake.  Pour  over 
the  cake  enough  strawberry  juice  to  dissolve  the  cake.  Rub  off 
on  blocks  of  loaf  sugar  the  yellow  rind  of  two  oranges,  and  dis- 
solve the  sugar  in  a  pint  of  rich  cream.  Squeeze  the  juice  of 
the  oranges  on  some  powdered  loaf  sugar,  and  add  it  gradually 
to  the  cream.  Whip  the  mixture  to  a  stiff  froth,  then  heap  it 
on  the  dissolved  cake.  Ornament  the  top  with  large  strawber- 
ries, halved. 

Orange  jelly  (No.  1) 

For  a  quart  of  jelly  allow  three  oranges  with  deep  yellow 
skins  and  two  lemons.  Squeeze  out  and  strain  the  juice.  Soak 
half  a  package  of  gelatine  in  the  juice,  but  before  pressing  the 
fruit  grate  carefully  all  the  outside,  so  that  no  white  mixes  with 
the  yellow  rind.  Cover  the  grated  peel  with  a  quart  of  cold 
water,  softened  by  a  pinch  of  baking-soda;  bring  gradually  to 
the  boil  and  simmer  for  five  minutes.  Add  a  teacupful  of  sugar 
to  the  soaked  gelatine,  then  strain  into  it  through  a  flannel  bag, 
or  fine  sieve,  the  hot  orange  water,  stirring  all  the  while. 

Wet  a  mold  with  cold  water,  put  in  the  jelly  and  set  on  ice  to 
form. 

Orange  jelly  (No.  2) 

Soak  a  half-box  of  gelatine  in  enough  cold  water  to  cover  it. 
At  the  end  of  two  hours  stir  into  it  a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar, 
put  it  into  a  saucepan  and  pour  upon  it  three  cupfuls  of  boiling 
water.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  the  gelatine  and  sugar  are  dis- 
solved, when  add  a  cupful  of  strained  orange  juice  and  a  dash 
of  cinnamon.  Do  not  allow  the  jelly  to  boil  after  the  orange 
juice  has  been  added,  but  remove  at  once;  strain  through  flannel 
and  turn  into  a  mold  wet  with  cold  water.  Set  in  a  cold  place 
to  form. 

Or  a  prettier  fashion  is  to  pour  the  liquid  jelly  into  halved 


572  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

orange  peels  from  which  the  pulp  has  been  carefully  removed, 
and  which  have  lain  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour.  When  firm, 
the  jelly  should  be  eaten  from  these  improvised  bowls. 

Coffee  jelly 

Soak  one-half  box  of  gelatine  in  one-half  cupful  of  cold  water. 
Put  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  one  of  water  over  the  fire,  and  stir  to 
a  quick  boil.  Pour  it  over  the  gelatine  and  stir  until  it  is  dis- 
solved. Add  two  cupfuls  of  strong,  clear,  black  coffee,  and 
strain.  Turn  into  a  wetted  mold.  Serve  with  whipped  cream. 

Tapioca  jelly 

Soak  a  half  cupful  of  tapioca  over  night  in  a  cupful  of  cold 
water.  Put  into  a  double  boiler  a  pint  of  boiling  water  and  dis- 
solve in  this  a  tablespoonful  of  granulated  sugar.  Now  turn  in 
the  soaked  tapioca  and  cook  until  clear.  Remove  from  the  fire 
and  add  two  teaspoonfuls  of  lemon  juice.  Have  ready  jelly 
glasses  wet  with  cold  water,  and  turn  the  liquid  jelly  into  these. 
Set  in  a  cold  place  to  form.  Serve  very  cold  with  sweetened 
cream. 

Raspberry  jelly 

Stir  into  a  quart  of  red  raspberries  a  cupful  of  granulated 
sugar.  At  the  end  of  an  hour  run  the  berries  through  a  vegetable 
press,  and  strain  the  juice  thus  produced  through'  a  flannel  bag. 
Have  ready  a  half-box  of  gelatine  soaked  in  a  cupful  of  cold 
water  for  two  hours,  and  pour  over  this  a  pint  of  boiling  water. 
Strain  and  stir  in  the  sweetened  raspberry  juice,  then  set  aside 
to  get  cold.  Wet  a  jelly  mold,  line  with  firm,  ripe  raspberries, 
and  pour  the  cool  half-firm  jelly  carefully  into  it.  Set  in  a  cold 
place  to  form.  Eat  with  cream. 

Rice  jelly 

Wash  a  cupful  of  rice  and  soak  it  for  two  hours  in  a  cupful  of 
water.  Have  ready  on  the  range  a  quart  of  boiling  water  and 


DINNER   SWEETS    OF   ALL    SORTS  573 

turn  the  rice  and  the  water  in  which  it  was  soaked  into  this.  Boil 
for  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  then  strain  through  a  muslin  bag. 
When  cold  and  thick,  serve  with  powdered  sugar  and  cream.  It 
is  very  nice  and  nourishing. 

Banana  souffle  (cold) 

Put  into  a  double  boiler  a  pint  of  milk  (half  cream  if  you  can 
get  it),  and  add  a  pinch  of  baking-soda.  Beat  the  yolks  of  three 
eggs  light  with  five  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  granulated  sugar. 
Add  to  the  beaten  eggs  and  sugar  a  teaspoonful  of  corn-starch 
dissolved  in  a  little  cold  milk.  When  the  milk  reaches  the  scald- 
ing point  add  the  egg  mixture  and  stir  to  a  smooth  custard,  or 
one  that  will  coat  the  spoon.  Slice  four  bananas  thin  into  the 
bottom  of  a  deep  pudding-dish,  add  to  the  hot  custard  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  vanilla  and  pour  it  over  the  bananas.  Have  the  whites  of 
the  eggs  whipped  to  a  stiff  meringue,  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
powdered  sugar ;  heap  it  on  top  of  the  custard  and  bake  in  a 
quick  oven  to  a  delicate  brown.  Serve  very  cold  with  whipped 
cream. 

Cream  puffs 

Melt  a  half-pound  of  butter  in  a  pint  of  scalding  water,  and 
when  this  boils  stir  in  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour.  Stir 
steadily  for  a  minute,  or  until  the  flour  does  not  stick  to  the  sides 
of  the  saucepan.  Remove  from  the  fire.  When  the  mixture  is 
cool  whip  in,  one  at  a  time,  eight  eggs  beaten  very  light.  Set  on 
the  ice  for  an  hour.  Line  pans  with  buttered  paper  and  drop 
the  mixture  by  even  spoonfuls  at  regular  intervals — far  apart — 
upon  this  paper.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  until  the  puffs  are  golden 
brown.  When  cold,  cut  a  slit  in  the  side  of  each  and  fill  with  a 
cream  made  by  the  following  recipe : 

Cream  puff  filling 

Thicken  a  cupful  of  hot  milk  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 
wet  to  a  paste  with  cold  water.  When  it  has  boiled  for  a  minute, 
and  is  free  from  lumps,  remove  from  the  fire  and  pour  upon  three 


574  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

eggs,  well  beaten  with  a  half  cupful  of  powdered  sugar.  Stir 
over  the  fire  to  a  thick,  smooth  cream ;  remove,  flavor  with 
vanilla,  and  when  cold  fill  the  puffs. 

Macaroons 

Beat  the  whites  of  three  eggs  stiff  with  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  powdered  sugar.  Stir  in  half  a  pound  of  finely-crum- 
bled almond  paste;  beat  until  smooth,  and  drop  by  the  spoonful 
upon  greased  paper.  Bake  for  ten  minutes  in  a  steady  oven. 

Tutti-frutti  jelly  of  canned  fruit 

Make  a  good  jelly,  using  the  liquor  from  the  canned  fruit  as 
seasoning.  Strain  while  hot,  and  pour  a  little  into  a  wet  mold 
or  bowl.  When  the  jelly  begins  to  form  put  a  layer  of  chopped 
fruit  upon  the  jelly,  cover  with  more  jelly  (which  you  should 
have  kept  slightly  warm).  When  this  is  firm,  more  fruit,  and 
so  on  until  materials  are  used  up.  When  firm  and  cold,  you  can 
slice  at  pleasure. 

Prune  and  nut  jelly 

Soak  a  cupful  of  prunes  all  night ;  drain  and  stew  them  until 
tender  in  three  cupfuls  of  water.  Before  taking  them  from  the 
fire  add  a  cupful  of  sugar.  Drain  the  prunes,  keeping  the  syrup, 
chop  them  and  stir  into  them  two  dozen  blanched  and  chopped 
almonds.  Soak  two-thirds  of  a  box  of  gelatine  in  a  cupful  of 
cold  water  for  two  hours,  add  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  and  the 
prune  liquor.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved ; 
then  remove,  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  sherry.  Turn  into  a  glass  dish,  and  when  partly  congealed 
stir  in  the  prunes  and  nuts.  Every  few  minutes  stir  the  jelly 
until  it  becomes  firm  enough  to  prevent  the  fruit  from  sinking 
to  the  bottom.  Eat  very  cold  with  sweetened,  whipped  cream. 

Wine  jelly 

Soak  one-half  box  of  gelatine  in  one-half  cupful  of  cold  water 
for  an  hour;  put  irto  a  saucepan  two  cupfuls  of  boiling  water, 


DINNER  SWEETS  OF  ALL  SORTS         575 

one  cupful  of  sugar  and  some  thin  slices  of  lemon  peel.  When 
the  sugar  has  dissolved  add  the  gelatine  and  stir  until  that  has 
dissolved ;  remove  from  the  fire,  and  when  partly  cool  add  the 
juice  of  one  lemon  and  three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of  sherry  wine. 
Pour  into  molds  and  set  to  cool, 


FRUIT  DESSERTS 

WHEN  people  call  in,  or  upon,  a  doctor,  in  the  expectation  of 
hearing  that  their  internal  mechanism  is  "all  agley,"  and  to  pay 
well  for  the  knowledge,  they  want  something  to  show  for  what 
they  have  done  and  mean  to  do.  The  physician's  catechism  and 
advice  that  do  not  entail  an  application  to  a  druggist  for  further 
help  to  the  deranged  machinery,  the  transfer  of  vial,  box  or 
packet  to  the  patient's  hands,  and  the  passage  of  coin  of  the 
realm  or  paper  of  the  republic  fr6m  one  pocket  to  another,  are 
a  violation  of  civilized  usages. 

"It  is  naught!  It  is  naught!"  saith  the  patient,  and  when  he 
is  gone  his  way  he  complaineth.  Henceforward  neither  he  nor 
his  listeners  to  his  tale  of  fraud,  "doctor  with"  the  candid  prac- 
titioner forevermore. 

It  will  be  seen  that  a  certain  physician  ran  one  positive  and  sev- 
eral possible  risks  when  he  said  to  an  anemic,  wild-eyed  patient, 
teetering  upon  the  inner  edge  of  nervous  prostration,  with  a  tilt  in 
the  wrong  direction : 

"A  sanitarium !  By  no  means !  And  drugs,  nervines,  sedatives 
and  the  like  would  do  you  no  permanent  good.  The  best  of  them 
are  mere  placebos  that  amuse  the  invalid  while  nature  cures  him. 
What  you  need — what  most  broken-down  women  need — is  fresh 
air  and  fresh  fruit.  Plenty  of  both !  Live  out  of  doors  and  live 
upon  fruit!" 

Then  he  charged  as  liberal  a  fee  as  if  he  had  recommended 
an  ocean  voyage,  Baden-Baden,  Carlsbad,  and  "ites"  and  "ines" 
by  the  dozen. 

If  he  had  ordered  a  tank  of  oxygen  to  be  sent  to  the  invalid's 
room  and  fallen  to  work  pumping  the  gas  into  her  lungs  at  a 
cost  of  one  hundred  dollars  per  day,  the  sufferer  and  the  suffer- 

576 


FRUIT   DESSERTS  577 

er's  friends  and  gossips  would  have  been  satisfied,  because  im- 
pressed with  the  novelty  and  the  scientific  flavor  of  the  proceed- 
ing. The  means  would  be  commensurate  with  the  end  to  be 
gained. 

Eat  abundantly  as  much  as  you  can  without  surfeit,  of  what* 
ever  fruit  agrees  with  you  best,  and  while  this  regimen  is  going 
on,  sparingly  of  meat  and  rich  gravies,  not  at  all  of  pastry.  Let 
the  assuasive,  and  dissuasive,  and  persuasive  juices  of  ripe,  fresh 
fruit  have  their  perfect  work.  Take  your  case  in  hand  seriously, 
and  with  a  definite,  intelligent  intention.  Drugs  interfere  with 
nature ;  fresh  air  and  fruit  are  her  obedient  handmaidens. 

Apples 

Many  persons  fancy  that  raw  apples  are  indigestible,  and  only 
endurable  in  the  early  morning.  Doubtless  the  old  adage  that 
fruit  is  gold  in  the  morning,  silver  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  and 
lead  at  night,  is  to  some  extent  answerable  for  this  (to  my  way 
of  thinking)  erroneous  impression. 

Dietitians  tell  us  that  ripe,  raw  apples  contain  more  phosphates 
in  proportion  to  their  bulk  than  any  other  article  of  food,  fish  not 
excepted.  A  recent  writer  on  this  point  boldly  declares  that  in 
this  lies  the  secret  of  healthful  longevity.  They  correct  bilious- 
ness and  act  as  a  sedative  upon  the  racked  nerves  and  allay  in- 
somnia. 

"Eat  uncooked  apples  constantly,  although,  of  course,  in  mod- 
eration, and  drink  distilled  water  only,  and  years  will  be  added 
to  your  life,  while  the  evidences  of  age  will  be  long  in  coming. 

"This  argument  is  based  on  the  supposition  that  as  age  ad- 
vances, the  deposits  of  mineral  matter  in  the  system  increase, 
and  that  aging  is  little  more  than  a  gradual  process  of  ossification. 

"Phosphoric  acid  contains  the  least  amount  of  earth-salts,  and 
for  that  reason  is  probably  the  nearest  approach  to  the  elixir  of 
life  known  to  the  scientific  world. 

"If  you  want  to  live  long,  to  retain  your  youth  at  the  same 
time,  and  to  increase  your  brain-tissue,  eat  plenty  of  apples, 
37 


578  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

drink  only  distilled  water,  and  eat  as  little  bread  as  possible.  A 
diluted  solution  of  phosphoric  acid  is  also  recommended  to  those 
who  care  to  take  pains  to  follow  the  diet  here  outlined." 

Tart  apples  are  far  more  wholesome  than  sweet,  and  all,  like 
potatoes,  should  be  fully  ripe  when  eaten. 

Wash  and  polish  them  for  the  table,  arrange  in  a  silver  basket  or 
glass  dish,  and  pass  silver  knives  with  them.  The  touch  of  steel 
injures  the  flavor. 

Peaches 

Neither  wash  nor  wipe.  The  soft  down  upon  the  cheek  of  a  ripe 
peach  is  one  of  its  charms.  Keep  on  the  ice  until  you  are  ready 
to  serve,  then  pile  in  a  fruit  dish  and  garnish  with  peach  leaves. 
Pass  silver  knives  with  them. 

To  prepare  grapefruit  for  table 

Cut  the  grapefruit  in  half,  and  dig  out  the  hard  core  and  seeds, 
leaving  a  hollow  in  the  center.  Loosen  the  pulp  from  the  skin  all 
around  the  sides  of  the  fruit,  so  that  it  can  be  eaten  easily  with 
a  spoon.  The  method  from  this  point  is  determined  by  the  indi- 
vidual taste.  Some  persons  like  the  fruit  without  sugar.  Others 
fill  the  hollow  in  the  middle  with  sugar,  and  pour  upon  this  a 
little  rum,  or  sherry,  or  Maraschino.  The  addition  of  a  few 
Maraschino  cherries  is  often  made,  and  in  hot  weather  the  fruit 
is  sometimes  laid  in  the  ice. 


Picked  pineapple 

Peel  the  pineapple  and  remove  the  little  dark  protuberances 
upon  the  surface  of  the  fruit.  With  a  fork  pick  or  tear  the  fruit 
into  strips,  strew  these  with  granulated  sugar  and  set  in  the  ice 
until  wanted. 

Pineapple  and  raspberries 

Trim  the  bottom  of  a  large  pineapple  so  that  it  will  stand  up- 
right. Cut  off  the  top,  but  do  not  throw  it  away.  With  a  sharp 


FRUIT   DESSERTS  579 

knife  dig  out  the  inside  of  the  fruit,  taking  care  that  the  knife 
does  not  penetrate  the  sides  or  walls  of  the  pineapple.  Put  this 
hollowed  case,  and  the  top  into  the  refrigerator  until  needed. 
Pick  the  inside  of  the  pineapple  into  tiny  bits,  and  mix  with  it  a 
cupful  of  red  raspberries.  Sweeten  abundantly  with  granulated 
sugar,  and  turn  the  fruit  into  a  glass,  or  a  china  jar,  with  a 
closely  fitting  cover.  Put  on  the  lid  and  bury  the  jar  in  the  ice 
for  several  hours.  Just  before  time  to  serve  it,  remove  from  the 
ice,  fill  the  hollowed  shell  with  the  fruit  mixture,  replace  the  top 
on  the  pineapple  and  send  to  table. 

Pineapple  and  strawberries 

Cut  off  the  top  of  a  pineapple,  and  pare  away  the  bottom  so 
that  it  will  stand  upright  and  firm  on  the  plate ;  scoop  out  the 
pulp,  discarding  the  core ;  mix  the  pulp  with  strawberries  cut  in 
halves,  the  juice  of  an  orange  and  sugar  to  taste.  Return  the 
mixture  to  the  shell  and  chill  thoroughly.  Garnish  the  dish  with 
leaves  from  the  crown. 

Strawberries 

If  large  and  ripe,  do  not  cap  them  but  pass  whole,  with  pow- 
dered sugar  that  each  eater  may  help  himself.  Holding  the  stem 
as  a  handle,  he  dips  the  fruit  in  the  sugar  and  nibbles  it  daintily. 


ICE  CREAM  AND   ICES 

FREEZERS  that  speedily  congeal  the  contents  of  their  grinding 
depths  may  be  bought  so  cheaply,  our  housekeeper  will  find  that 
in  the  long  run  it  is  economy  to  buy  a  patent  freezer  and  make 
her  ices  at  home. 

In  freezing  creams  of  all  sorts,  and  water,  or  fruit  ices,  the 
process  is  greatly  simplified  by  having  the  ice  crushed  fine.  Many 
cooks  who  are  new  to  the  business,  do  not  recognize  this  fact. 
In  consequence,  they  learn  that  to  freeze  cream  takes  very  much 
longer  than  they  were  led  to  imagine  from  the  circular  advertis- 
ing "the  most  rapid  freezer  ever  put  upon  the  market."  While 
this  circular  may  to  a  certain  extent  exaggerate  the  facts,  do  not 
condemn  the  new  machine  until  you  have  pounded  or  shaved 
your  ice  very  fine.  A  machine  for  shaving  ice  facilitates  this 
process.  Lacking  this,  put  the  ice  into  a  strong  bag  and  pound 
it  fine  with  a  wooden  mallet. 

I  wish  it  were  in  my  power  to  name  and  recommend  "a  perfect 
freezer"  of  any  kind.  Grinding  is  slow  work ;  it  is  hard  work ; 
it  is  hot  work  at  a  season  when  action  begets  discomfort.  My 
heart  leaped  high  within  me  when  a  correspondent  wrote  gush- 
ingly of  a  freezer  that  "did  the  business  of,  and  in  itself  without 
calling  upon  housewife  or  cook  for  so  much  as  a  turn  or  touch." 
Upon  trial  of  the  "perfect"  machine,  I  found  the  product — after 
I  had  faithfully  obeyed  instructions — coarse-grained,  and  shot 
with  icy  needles.  I  can,  however,  refer  to  a  self-freezing  process 
practised  in  my  household  for  twenty  odd  years,  and  with  never 
a  failure. 

Pour  your  cream,  of  whatever  kind,  into  the  freezer,  surround 
with  alternate  layers  of  ice,  shaved  or  cracked  almost  as  fine  as 
snow,  and  rock  salt.  Fill  to  the  top  and  pour  over  all  two  quarts 

580 


ICE    CREAM    AND    ICES  581 

of  the  strongest  brine.  Bury  the  freezer  out  of  sight  in  cracked 
ice  and  throw  a  piece  of  carpet,  or  a  doubled  sack  over  all,  and 
don't  touch  it  again  for  an  hour.  Open  then  and  beat  and  churn, 
when  you  have  scraped  the  frozen  cream  from  the  sides  down 
into  the  middle.  Have  a  stout  "dasher"  in  miniature  made,  and 
work  diligently  for  at  least  five  or  six  minutes.  The  granulation 
and  ice-needles  of  the  "perfect  machine"  were  the  consequence 
of  neglect  of  this  beating  and  churning.  Now  close  the  freezer, 
pack  down  again  in  rock  salt  and  finely  pounded  ice,  burying  it 
out  of  sight  as  before,  put  a  weight  on  the  top,  unless  the  freezer 
be  fast  to  the  bottom  of  the  outer  vessel,  and  let  all  alone  for 
two  hours  more — longer  if  you  like. 

You  will  have  then  a  pillar  of  lusciousness,  smooth  as  cream 
can  be  and  should  be.  Dip  the  freezer  in  hot  water  and  turn  out, 
or  wrap  a  towel  wet  in  hot  water  about  it  to  loosen  the  cream. 

All  ices  are  the  better  for  being  packed  down  in  ice  for  some 
time  after  they  are  frozen.  It  is  a  ripening  and  mellowing  pro- 
cess. If  you  wish  to  add  fruit  or  nuts  to  the  plain  custard  or 
cream  beat  them  in  when  you  open  the  freezer  to  "churn"  the 
contents. 

Vanilla  ice  cream 

Make  a  custard  of  a  quart  of  milk,  seven  eggs  and  four  cup- 
fuls  of  granulated  sugar.  Remove  from  the  fire  and  flavor  with 
vanilla  extract.  When  cold  beat  into  the  custard  a  quart  of  rich 
cream,  and  freeze. 

It  is  made  more  elegant  and  delicious  by  pouring  over  each 
plateful,  when  served,  a  hot  or  a  cold  chocolate,  or  cold  strawberry 
sauce. 

Chocolate  sauce  for  vanilla  ice  cream 

Rub  four  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  sweet  chocolate  (grated 
fine)  to  a  smooth  paste,  with  six  tablespoonfuls  of  cream.  Add 
two  cupfuls  of  boiling  water,  and  cook  in  a  double  boiler,  stirring 
constantly,  for  ten  minutes  after  the  boil  begins.  Flavor  with 
vanilla  or  other  extract  when  cold.  Before  using,  beat  for  three 
minutes  hard. 


582  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

This  "dressing"  is  especially  nice  if  a  few  spoonfuls  of  whipped 
cream  be  beaten  into  it  just  before  serving.  It  should  be  very 
cold,  or  very  hot.  If  the  latter,  omit  the  whipped  cream  but 
froth  by  heating  over  the  fire. 

Strawberry  sauce  for  vanilla  cream 

Crush  a  pint  of  berries,  mix  with  them  a  cupful  of  sugar ;  stir 
until  dissolved;  strain  through  a  fine  colander  or  a  vegetable 
press,  and  set  on  ice  until  needed. 

Hot  maple  sauce  for  vanilla  ice  cream 

Boil  a  pound  of  maple  sugar  with  a  very  little  water  until  it 
begins  to  "thread."  Then  stir  into  it  a  half  a  cupful  of  shelled 
English  walnuts,  broken,  not  chopped,  into  bits.  There  should 
be  enough  to  make  the  sauce  quite  thick.  Pour  hot  over  vanilla 
ice  cream. 

Chocolate  ice  cream 

Make  a  custard  according  to  the  directions  given  in  the  recipe 
for  vanilla  ice  cream,  stirring  into  it,  while  in  cooking,  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  grated  chocolate.  When  this  chocolate  custard  is 
cold  beat  in  a  pint  of  rich  cream  and  freeze. 


Burnt  almond  ice  cream 

Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  light,  add  to  them  a  cupful  of  sugar 
and  a  pint  of  hot  milk.  Put  over  the  fire  in  a  double  boiler,  cook 
until  the  mixture  thickens  like  a  custard,  take  from  the  fire,  whip 
in  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  beaten  stiff,  and  when  the  mixture  is 
cold  stir  in  lightly  half  a  pint  of  sweet  cream,  whipped  stiff,  a 
cupful  of  almonds,  which  have  been  shelled,  blanched,  chopped 
fine,  browned  in  two  teaspoonfujs  of  caramel  sugar,  and  pounded 
to  a  coarse  powder.  Flavor  with  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  and 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  almond  extract.  Freeze  as  you  would  other 
ice  cream.  - ' '  . 


ORANGE    MARMALADE 


ICE    CREAM    WITH    HOI    MAPLE    SAUCE 


AFTERNOON  TEA   SANDWICHES 


ICE   CREAM    AND    ICES  583 

Pistachio  ice  cream 

Blanch  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  pistachio  nuts  by  pouring  boil- 
ing water  over  them,  letting  them  stand  in  this  for  ten  minutes 
and  slipping  off  the  skins.  Grind  to  a  powder  or  pound  to  a 
paste,  adding  a  few  drops  of  cream  in  the  latter  case.  Have 
ready  a  custard  as  for  vanilla  ice  cream,  made  of  six  eggs,  a 
quart  of  milk  and  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  after  this  is  cooked  to  a 
custard,  and  cold,  add  a  quart  of  rich  cream,  the  pistachio  nuts 
and  enough  green  vegetable  paste  to  make  it  of  the  desired  shade 
of  green.  Turn  into  the  freezer  and  freeze. 

Maple  frappe* 

Into  two  cupfuls  of  maple  syrup  stir  a  cupful  of  water  and  a 
cupful  of  rich  cream,  and  freeze.  Serve  in  punch-glasses  with 
teaspoons. 

Nesselrode  pudding 

Make  a  rich  custard  of  eight  eggs  and  a  quart  of  milk ;  stir  into 
it  a  quart  of  rich  cream,  turn  into  a  freezer  and  grind  until  half- 
frozen.  Now  open  the  freezer,  remove  the  dasher  and  with  a 
long-handled  spoon  beat  into  the  cream  a  pound  of  chopped 
marrons  glaces.  Replace -the  top  of  the  freezer,  pack  down  in  ice 
and  rock  salt,  and  leave  for  three  hours.  Turn  the  pudding  upon 
a  chilled  platter,  and  heap  whipped  cream  about  the  base. 

Crushed  strawberry  ice  cream 

Make  a  custard  like  the  one  for  which  directions  are  given  in 
the  last  recipe,  only  doubling  the  quantity.  Add  a  quart  of 
cream  and  pour  into  the  freezer.  Grind  or  leave  packed  down 
until  half-frozen.  Have  ready  a  quart  of  strawberries  mashed 
and  abundantly  sweetened.  When  the  ice  cream  is  half  con- 
gealed carefully  remove  the  top  from  the  freezer  and  with  a  long 
spoon  beat  in  the  crushed  berries,  stirring  up  the  contents  from 
the  bottom.  Replace  the  top  and  continue  to  grind  until  frozen. 

Red  raspberries  may  be  used  in  the  same  way. 


584  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Macaroon  ice  cream 

Spread  a  half-pound  of  macaroons  on  a  pastry-board  and  with 
a  rolling-pin  crush  them  to  a  powder. 

Make  a  custard  after  the  following  manner :  Heat  a  pint  of 
milk  to  the  scalding  point  and  pour  it  gradually  upon  three  eggs 
beaten  light  with  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar. 
Put  into  a  double  boiler  over  the  fire  and  stir  until  like  thick 
cream;  remove,  and  set  aside  to  cool.  When  cold  stir  into  this 
custard  a  pint  of  rich  cream,  the  powdered  macaroons  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla  extract.  Turn  into  the  freezer  and  grind 
until  frozen. 

Macaroon  mousse 

Make  custard  as  in  last  recipe,  but  whip  the  cream,  then  beat 
the  powdered  macaroons  well  into  it,  pack  an  ice  and  freeze  with- 
out grinding. 

The  "mousse"  or  mossy  effect  is  produced  by  freezing  whipped 
cream  without  turning  the  crank.  (See  directions  given  at  be- 
ginning of  this  chapter.) 

Strawberry  mousse 

Whip  a  pint  of  thick  cream  very  stiff  and  stir  into  it  a  cupful 
of  crushed  berries  which  have  been  sweetened  abundantly  and 
from  which  all  of  the  juice  has  been  drained.  Mold  and  pack  in 
ice  and  salt  for  four  hours.  When  ready  to  serve,  garnish  with 
whole  strawberries. 

Raspberry  mousse 

Mash  a  quart  of  red  raspberries  and  cover  them  with  a  pint  of 
granulated  sugar.  Whip  a  quart  of  cream  to  a  stiff  froth,  and 
beat  it  gradually  into  the  mashed  berries.  Turn  into  the  freezer. 
Do  not  grind,  but  pack  in  ice  and  cracked  salt  for  three  hours. 
This  is  delicious  served  with  or  without  whipped  cream. 

Peach  ice  cream  (No.  1) 

Scald  a  pint  of  cream  and  pour  it  very  gradually  upon  three 
eggs  that  have  been  beaten  light  with  three  cupfuls  of  sugar,  Put 


ICE    CREAM   AND    ICES  585 

over  the  fire  in  a  double  boiler  and  cook,  stirring  constantly  until 
you  have  a  custard  that  coats  the  spoon.  This  will  take  about  fif- 
teen minutes.  Set  the  custard  aside  until  cold,  then  stir  into  it  a 
pint  of  rich  cream  and  three  cupfuls  of  cut-up  peaches.  These 
peaches  should  not  be  peeled  and  cut  until  just  before  the  time 
for  freezing  them,  and  must  be  cut  into  very  small  bits,  and 
sprinkled  abundantly  with  sugar.  Stir  custard,  cream  and  peaches 
well  together,  turn  all  into  the  freezer  and  freeze  until  firm.  If 
you  freeze  without  grinding,  beat  the  fruit  in  after  the  cream  has 
been  packed  down  for  an  hour. 

Peach  ice  cream  (No.  2) 

Make  a  quart  of  rich  ice  cream  and  flavor  with  almond. 
When  frozen  hard  take  up  and  cut  into  cakes.  Line  the  bottom 
and  sides  of  the  freezer  with  these.  Reserve  one-fourth  for  a 
cover.  Fill  the  center  with  layers  of  sliced  peaches  and  thick 
whipped  cream.  Cover  with  the  reserved  cream  and  let  the 
freezer  remain  in  ice  and  salt  an  hour.  Dip  quickly  into  warm 
water  and  turn  out  carefully. 

Cafe  parfait 

Put  together  one  quart  of  thick  cream,  one  gill  of  clear,  strong 
coffee  and  a  cupful  of  fine  white  sugar.  Whip  all  light  in  a  cream 
churn,  or  with  any  other  appliance  you  have  for  whipping  cream. 
When  stiff  and  light  put  into  a  mold  that  will  fit  in  a  freezer,  and 
bind  a  strip  of  cloth  or  several  folds  of  tissue  paper  about  the  top 
of  the  mold  so  as  to  keep  the  salt  water  from  getting  in.  Put 
the  mold  into  a  freezer  tub  and  surround  it  with  fine  ice  and  rock 
salt,  well  packed  down.  It  should  stand  in  this  for  at  least  three 
hours.  As  a  rule  it  is  served  heaped  in  glasses  or  cups. 

Raspberry  parfait 

With  a  silver  spoon  mash  a  quart  of  red  raspberries  and  stir 
into  them  a  pound  of  granulated  sugar.  Set  in  a  cold  place  for 
several  hours  while  you  soak  half  a  box  of  gelatine  in  a  half  a 


586  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

pint  of  cool  water.  When  the  gelatine  has  soaked  for  two  hours 
turn  it  into  a  saucepan,  pour  over  it  a  cupful  of  boiling  water, 
and  stir  until  dissolved.  Rub  the  berries  and  sugar  through  a 
fine  colander  into  the  dissolved  gelatine,  and  again  set  it  in  a  cold 
place  for  an  hour  or  two.  Meanwhile,  beat  a  pint  of  sweet  cream 
stiff.  (This  will  make  about  a  quart  of  whipped  cream.)  When 
the  gelatine  mixture  is  cold  beat  the  whipped  cream  into  it,  put 
into  a  freezer  and  freeze. 

Fruit  meringue  glace 

This  is  one  of  the  simplest  and  most  delicious  of  desserts  and 
may  be  made  of  any  kind  of  fruit  that  is  at  hand.  It  is  espe- 
cially good  when  made  of  strawberries,  red  raspberries,  or  ripe 
peaches. 

Crush  a  quart  of  fruit  to  a  pulp  and  cover  it  with  a  pint  of 
granulated  sugar.  Pour  on  this  a  half  pint  of  cold  water  and  the 
unbeaten  whites  of  five  eggs.  Mix  and  turn  into  the  freezer. 
The  grinding  process  will  whip  the  contents  into  frozen  foam, 
light  yet  firm. 

Orange  and  banana  meringue  glace 

Peel,  seed  and  chop  five  oranges  fine,  and  cover  them  with  two 
cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar.  At  the  end  of  half  an  hour  peel 
and  chop  five  or  six  bananas,  and  stir  immediately  into  the  sugared 
oranges.  Now  add  a  pint  of  cold  water  and  the  unbeaten  whites 
of  five  eggs.  Turn  into  the  freezer  and  grind  until  you  have  a 
frozen  fruit  froth. 

Strawberry  surprise 

Mash  two  quarts  of  strawberries  to  a  pulp,  add  to  them  a  pint 
of  sugar,  a  pint  of  water,  the  juice  of  two  lemons  and  the  unbeaten 
whites  of  six  eggs.  Turn  into  the  freezer  and  freeze.  The  turr,  - 
ing  of  the  dasher  will  beat  all  to  a  foamy  and  delicious  "surprise." 

Alaska  bake  (No.  1) 

Whites  of  six  eggs.  Six  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar. 
Two-quart  brick  of  ice  cream.  A  thin  sheet  of  sponge  cake. 


ICE    CREAM   AND    ICES  587 

Make  a  meringue  of  the  egg  whites  and  the  sugar,  cover  a 
board  with  white  paper,  lay  on  the  sponge  cake,  turn  the  ice  cream 
out  upon  the  cake  (which  should  extend  one-half  inch  beyond  the 
cream),  cover  with  the  meringue,  and  spread  smoothly.  Place 
on  the  oven  grate  and  brown  quickly.  The  board,  paper,  cake 
and  meringue  are  poor  conductors  of  heat  and  prevent  the  cream 
from  melting.  Slip  from  paper  on  ice  cream  platter. 

Alaska  bake  (No.  2) 

Cover  thickly  a  two-quart  brick  mold  of  ice  cream  with  a 
meringue  made  of  the  whites  of  six  eggs  and  six  tablespoonfuls 
of  powdered  sugar. 

Place  the  dish  upon  a  board  and  set  in  a  very  quick  oven  to 
brown.  The  meringue  acts  as  a  non-conductor,  and  prevents  the 
heat  from  melting  the  ice  cream. 

It  may  also  be  browned  with  a  salamander  or  a  heated  fire- 
shovel. 

Sherbet 

Squeeze  all  the  juice  from  six  lemons  and  one  large  orange. 
Put  into  this  the  grated  rind  of  the  orange,  and  of  three  of  the 
lemons,  and  let  it  steep  for  an  hour.  Strain  in  a  bag,  squeezing 
this  hard;  add  two  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar  and  one  pint  of 
water.  Mix  well  and  put  into  a  freezer.  The  length  of  time  it 
will  take  to  freeze  depends  upon  the  make  of  the  freezer.  Some 
require  more  time  than  others. 

Berry  sherbet 

Mash  one  quart  of  berries,  or  enough  to  make  one  pint  of  juice ; 
add  one  pint  of  sugar,  and  after  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  add  one 
pint  of  water  and  the  juice  of  one  lemon.  Press  through  coarse 
lace,  or  cheese  cloth,  and  freeze. 

Tutti-frutti  ice  cream 

Break  the  whites  of  seven  eggs  into  a  chilled  bowl,  add  to  them 
two  cupfuls  of  powdered  sugar  and  a  pint  of  rich  cream  into 


588  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

which  you  have  stirred  a  bit  of  baking-soda  the  size  of  a  pea. 
Put  over  the  fire  in  a  double  boiler  and  make  it  scalding  hot,  but 
remove  before  the  boiling  point  is  reached.  Now  set  the  inner 
saucepan  in  a  pan  of  ice,  and  churn  until  cold  and  light.  Turn 
into  the  freezer  and  grind.  Peel  and  cut  into  small  bits  three 
peaches,  an  apple,  an  orange,  a  banana,  two  dozen  cherries  (crys- 
tallized, if  you  can  not  get  the  fresh),  and  cut  into  small  pieces  a 
half  cupful  of  red  raspberries.  Mix  all  these  fruits  thoroughly 
together.  When  the  cream  is  frozen,  but  not  very  stiff,  carefully 
wipe  off  the  top  of  the  freezer,  remove  the  cover,  and  take  out 
the  dasher.  Turn  the  mixed  fruits  into  the  cream,  and  with  a 
long-handled  spoon  stir  them  in.  Press  all  down  hard,  replace 
the  cover,  and  pack  the  freezer  down  in  ice  and  salt  for  three 
hours  longer. 

Cherry  ice 

Stem  and  stone  a  quart  of  cherries,  crush  and  cover  them  with 
two  cupfuls  of  sugar.  At  the  end  of  an  hour  squeeze  the  cher- 
ries through  a  vegetable  press  and  extract  all  the  juice.  To  this 
add  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  pint  of  water  and  the  unbeaten  whites 
of  three  eggs.  Turn  all  into  a  freezer  and  grind  until  you  have 
a  firm,  light  ice.  Pack  the  freezer  in  ice  and  salt  for  an  hour  after 
the  dasher  is  removed. 

Whole  banana  ice  cream 

Wash  and  wipe  twelve  large  ripe  red  bananas,  cut  the  skins 
down  carefully  all  the  length  on  one  side,  and  as  carefully  extract 
the  pulp  without  breaking  the  skins.  Remove  the  pulp,  scrape 
out  the  fibrous  portion  from  the  skins  and  put  the  latter  in  the 
ice-chest  until  the  cream  is  ready.  Mash  the  pulp  of  the  bananas, 
mix  with  it  two  cupfuls  of  sugar  and  one  quart  of  cream,  and  add 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  lemon  juice.  Rub  through  your  colander 
to  get  rid  of  fibrous  parts,  and  freeze  in  the  usual  way.  When 
almost  hard,  fill  the  banana  skins  with  the  cream,  packing 
it  in  well,  tie  with  soft  thread  and  return  to  the  cleaned  and  chilled 
freezer.  Freeze  for  another  hour  (without  turning).  Have 


ICE    CREAM    AND    ICES  589 

ready  a  dozen  narrow  green  ribbons.  Remove  the  threads  quick- 
ly, tie  the  bananas  up  with  the  ribbons ;  lay  back  in  a  freezer  when 
you  have  wiped  it  dry,  and  leave  in  ice  and  rock  salt  until  you 
are  ready  to  serve. 

Plum  Bavarian  cream 

Soak  half  a  box  of  gelatine  in  half  a  pint  of  cold  water.  Press 
through  a  sieve  one  pint  of  canned,  or  freshly  stewed  and  sweet- 
ened plums.  Stir  the  gelatine  over  boiling  water  until  dissolved ; 
stir  the  plums  into  this  and  mix  well ;  pour  into  a  bowl  set  in 
ice,  and  stir  constantly  until  it  begins  to  thicken ;  then  add  one 
pint  of  whipped  cream ;  stir  lightly  until  well  mixed.  Turn  into 
a  mold  and  stand  in  a  cool  place  to  harden.  Serve  with  whipped 
cream. 

Cider  ice 

Dissolve  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar  in  one 
quart  of  cider.  Add  one  cupful  of  orange  juice  and  one- fourth 
cupful  of  lemon  juice.  Mix  the  ingredients  well  together  and 
freeze  in  the  usual  manner. 

Raspberry  and  currant  cream 

Mash  one  quart  of  black  raspberries  and  one  pint  of  red  cur- 
rants with  two  and  a  half  cupfuls  of  sugar.  Let  them  stand  sev- 
eral hours,  strain  off  the  juice  and  turn  into  the  freezer.  When 
partly  frozen,  add  one  cupful  of  sweet  cream,  sweetened,  flavored 
and  whipped. 


HOME-MADE  CANDIES 

THERE  has  of  late  years  been  so  much  criminal  adulteration  of 
candy  that  the  cautious  parent  is  tempted  to  condemn  all  bonbons 
as  unfit  for  human  stomachs.  In  our  wholesale  condemnation 
we  are  prone  to  forget  that  the  longing  for  sweets  is  a  natural 
craving  of  the  system,  and  that  pure  sugar,  taken  in  moderation 
and  at  the  proper  time,  is  not  injurious,  but  rather  aids  in  the 
process  of  digestion. 

A  moderate  amount  of  good  candy  eaten  directly  after  a  hearty 
meal  should  not  prove  injurious  to  any  healthy  person. 

Appreciation  of  this  hygienic  law  has  led  to  the  introduction  of 
the  bonbonniere  upon  the  luncheon  and  the  dinner  table.  The 
sweet  morsels  are  nibbled  because  it  is  fashionable  to  partake  of 
them,  but  the  good  results  are  the  same  as  if  intelligent  compre- 
hension of  need  and  supply  were  the  motive  power. 

Maple  candy 

Break  a  pound  of  maple  sugar  into  bits  and  then  crush  it  fine 
with  a  rolling-pin.  Stir  it  into  two  cupfuls  of  hot  milk ;  put  over 
the  fire,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  melted.  Now  boil  hard, 
stirring  all  the  time,  until  the  syrup  is  brittle  when  dropped  into 
cold  water ;  beat  in  a  lump  of  butter  the  size  of  a  small  hen's  egg, 
and  as  soon  as  this  melts,  pour  the  candy  into  greased  pans. 
Cut  into  large  squares  before  it  hardens. 

Maple  caramels 

Break  two  pounds  of  maple  sugar  into  a  quart  of  milk — half 
cream,  if  you  have  it — and  boil  steadily,  until  a  little  dropped  into 
cold  water,  hardens.  Pour  into  greased  pans,  and  as  it  cools, 
mark  into  squares. 

590 


HOME-MADE    CANDIES  591 

Maple  fudge 

Break  a  pound  of  maple  sugar  into  small  pieces  and  put  it  over 
the  fire  with  a  cupful  of  milk.  Bring  to  a  boil,  add  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  butter  and  cook  until  a  little  dropped  into  cold  water  be- 
comes brittle.  Take  from  the  fire,  stir  until  it  begins  to  granulate 
a  little  about  the  sides  of  the  pot,  and  then  pour  into  a  greased  pan. 
Mark  into  squares  with  a  knife. 

Sugar  candy 

Wet  two  heaping  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar  with  a  half  pint 
of  cold  water  and  put  over  the  fire  in  a  porcelain-lined  saucepan. 
When  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  stir  in  a  bit  of  cream  of  tartar  (as 
large  as  a  Lima  bean)  dissolved  in  a  spoonful  of  cold  water. 
Boil  the  candy  until  a  bit  hardens  when  dropped  into  cold  water ; 
remove  from  the  fire,  stir  in  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  turn  into 
greased  pans,  mark  into  squares  and  set  aside  to  harden.  Or,  as 
the  candy  cools,  pull  it  with  buttered  finger-tips  into  long  white 
ropes.  Let  it  get  very  cold  and  brittle  before  eating. 

Chocolate  fudge  (No.  1) 

Boil  together  a  cupful  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of  grated  chocolate, 
one-half  cupful  of  milk,  one-quarter  of  a  cupful  of  molasses. 
Boil,  stirring  often,  until  a  little  hardens  in  cold  water.  Remove 
from  the  fire,  beat  in  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  stir  for  a  minute 
and  turn  into  a  buttered  pan. 

Chocolate  fudge  (No.  2) 

Three  pounds  of  light  brown  sugar,  one  half  pound  of  choco- 
late, one-half  cupful  of  cream,  one-quarter  pound  of  butter,  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  vanilla  extract. 

Put  all  into  a  porcelain  kettle,  or  smooth  iron  pot,  excepting 
the  vanilla  extract.  Set  on  the  back  of  the  stove  and  let  it  melt 
slowly — two  hours  are  none  too  long,  if  you  value  smooth,  rich 
Then  pull  forward  to  boil  about  ten  minutes.  Try,  at  the 


592  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

end  of  seven  or  eight  minutes,  in  ice-cold  water,  and  if  it  "balls" 
in  the  fingers,  take  off  and  beat,  adding  the  vanilla.  Turn  out 
into  buttered  tins,  and  score  when  cool  enough. 

Penotchie 

Put  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  three  cupfuls  of  light  brown 
sugar — not  coffee  sugar — with  a  cupful  of  milk  and  boil  to  the 
stage  when  dropped  into  cold  water  it  makes  a  soft  but  firm  ball 
in  the  fingers.  Add,  then,  a  teaspoonful  of  butter ;  take  from  the 
fire,  flavor  with  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  and  stir  in  a  cupful  of 
kernels  of  English  walnuts,  hickory  nuts,  or  pecans,  broken  into 
pieces.  Turn  out  upon  a  well-buttered  shallow  pan  and  mark 
into  squares  with  a  buttered  knife. 

This  is  sometimes  known  as  "Penuchie,"  sometimes  as  "Mexi- 
can Kisses." 

Molasses  candy  (No.  1) 

Stir  together  three  cupfuls  of  New  Orleans  molasses  and  a 
cupful  of  brown  sugar.  Add  a  gill  of  vinegar  and  put  all  over  the 
fire  in  a  porcelain-lined  saucepan.  Bring  slowly  to  a  boil  and 
stir  the  syrup  often  as  it  cooks.  Test  the  candy,  from  time  to 
time,  by  dropping  a  bit  into  iced  water.  As  soon  as  this  bit 
hardens  stir  into  the  boiling  syrup  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  but- 
ter; when  this  melts,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  baking-soda  dissolved 
in  a  tablespoonful  of  boiling  water,  and  remove  immediately  from 
the  fire.  Pour  into  buttered  tins  and  cut  into  diamond-shaped 
candies,  or  pull  into  ropes. 

This  is  the  good  old-fashioned  molasses  candy  of  "candy  pulls" 
— the  frolics  dear  to  our  mothers'  girlish  days.  In  my  opinion  it 
is  sweeter  to  taste  and  to  memory  than  chocolate  creams  or  any 
other  modern  bonbon. 

Molasses  candy  (No.  2) 

Boil  together  a  cupful  of  molasses,  one  of  brown  sugar,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  and  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar.  When  a  drop 
hardens  in  cold  water  remove  from  the  fire,  beat  in  a  small  tea- 


HOME-MADE    CANDIES  593 

spoonful  of  baking-soda,  stir  hard,  and  turn  into  buttered  pans. 
As  it  hardens,  cut  into  squares,  or  when  hard  break  into  bits. 

Molasses  "velvets" 

One  cupful  of  molasses,  three  cupfuls  of  sugar,  one  cupful  of 
boiling  water,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  one-half  teaspoon- 
ful  of  cream  of  tartar,  one-half  cupful  of  melted  butter,  one- 
fourth  teaspoonful  of  soda.  Pour  the  first  four  ingredients  into 
a  kettle  placed  over  the  front  of  the  range.  As  soon  as  the  boil- 
ing point  is  reached  add  cream  of  tartar.  Boil  until,  when  tried 
in  cold  water,  the  mixture  will  harden  and  crisp.  Stir  constantly 
during  the  last  half  hour  of  cooking.  When  nearly  done  add  the 
butter  and  soda.  Pour  into  a  buttered  pan  and  pull  as  you  would 
plain  molasses  candy.  Before  pulling  add  one  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla,  one-half  teaspoonful  of  lemon  extract,  or  any  essence  you 
may  prefer. 

Molasses  taffy 

Boil  a  pint  of  molasses  for  twenty  minutes,  then  stir  in  two 
saltspoonfuls  of  baking-soda  and  boil  for  fifteen  minutes  more, 
or  until  a  little  dropped  into  cold  water  is  brittle.  You  must  stir 
the  taffy  constantly  while  boiling,  or  it  will  scorch.  When  it  is 
done  add  a  teaspoonful  of  vinegar  and  pour  into  buttered  pans, 
or  pull  to  a  light  brown. 

Molasses  walnut  candy 

Boil  a  quart  of  molasses  for  half  an  hour,  then  add  a  saltspoon- 
ful  of  baking-soda  and  boil  until  a  little  dropped  into  cold  water 
becomes  brittle.  Stir  in  shelled  and  halved  walnuts,  and  pour 
into  a  greased  pan. 

Molasses  stick  candy 

Boil  together  a  pint  of  molasses,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter, 
a  pound  of  brown  sugar  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar.  When 
a  little  hardens  in  iced  water  remove  from  the  fire,  and,  as  it  cools, 
pull  into  long  light  strips  with  floured  finger-tips.  Lay  on  waxed 
paper  to  harden. 
38 


594  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Chocolate  caramels  (No.  1) 

Heat  together  over  a  slow  fire  two  cupfuls  of  brown  sugar,  half 
a  cupful  of  molasses,  half  a  cupful  of  cream,  four  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter,  and  half  a  cake  of  Baker's  unsweetened  chocolate, 
grated.  Cool  until  it  is  brittle  when  dropped  into  cold  water ; 
flavor  with  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla,  turn  into  a  greased  pan,  and 
when  cool  cut  into  squares  with  a  knife. 

Chocolate  caramels  (No.  2) 

Boil  together  two  pounds  of  granulated  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  grated  chocolate,  a  half  pint  of  milk,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  butter.  Cook  until  a  bit  hardens  when  dropped  into 
cold  water,  flavor  with  vanilla,  pour  into  greased  tins  and  mark 
into  squares. 

Opera  caramels 

Stir  into  two  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar  just  enough  milk  to 
dissolve  it,  add  a  quarter  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar  and  put 
over  a  slow  fire.  Stir  constantly  while  boiling  until  a  little 
dropped  into  cold  water  has  the  consistency  of  putty.  Pour  into 
a  shallow  pan  and  set  aside  to  cool  until  so  stiff  that  your  finger 
pressed  on  it  leaves  a  dent.  Now  beat  until  you  have  a  soft, 
dough-like  mass.  Knead  this,  put  upon  a  pastry  board  sprinkled 
with  powdered  sugar,  and  roll  into  a  sheet  a  half  inch  thick. 
Cut  into  squares.  If  you  wish  to  make  vanilla  caramels  of  these 
stir  in  the  vanilla  just  before  taking  the  mixture  from  the  fire. 

Chocolate  creams 

Beat  the  white  of  an  egg  light  with  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar, 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  and  enough  confectioner's  sugar  to 
make  a  mixture  stiff  enough  to  be  rolled  into  balls.  Beat  very 
smooth,  then  form  into  balls  the  size  of  a  small  marble,  and  spread 
in  a  pan  to  get  stiff  and  firm.  Cover  with  a  chocolate  coating. 


HOME-MADE    CANDIES  595 

Chocolate  coating  for  creams 

Melt  sweetened  chocolate  in  a  double  boiler.  Run  a  thick 
skewer  into  each  cream  ball  and  dip  in  the  melted  chocolate  until 
thoroughly  coated.  Spread  on  buttered  tins  to  dry;  or,  spread 
upon  waxed  paper. 

Chocolate  marshmallows 

Buy  two  ounces  of  finely  powdered  white  gum  arabic  and  let  it 
stand,  covered  with  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water,  for  an 
hour.  Put  it  then  into  a  double  boiler,  and  let  it  heat  slowly  until 
the  gum  is  dissolved.  Strain  through  a  cheese-cloth,  wash  out 
the  double  boiler  and  return  the  gum  arabic  to  this  with  seven 
ounces  of  powdered  sugar  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  grated 
chocolate.  Stir  over  the  fire  for  about  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
At  the  end  of  this  time  the  mixture  should  be  stiff.  Take  from 
the  fire,  beat  rapidly  for  two  minutes,  put  in  a  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla,  and  pour  into  a  pan  which  has  been  well  dusted  with 
corn-starch.  When  cold  cut  into  squares. 

Fondant  for  cream  candies 

To  one  pound  of  granulated  sugar  put  into  a  granite  saucepan, 
add  a  gill  and  a  half  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  is 
dissolved — no  longer.  Let  the  syrup  boil  about  six  minutes,  and 
dip  a  fork  into  it.  Try  this,  holding  up  the  fork  and  watching 
the  syrup  on  the  point,  until  this  has  reached  a  stage  where  it 
spins  a  thread.  Test  it  still  further  by  dropping  a  little  of  the 
boiling  sugar  into  iced  water.  When  it  can  be  made  into  a  very 
soft  ball  with  the  fingers,  turn  it  out  on  a  large  platter,  which  has 
been  lightly  buttered.  Be  careful  not  to  stir  the  sugar  when 
boiling,  and  do  not  scrape  off  the  sugar  that  adheres  to  the  side  of 
the  saucepan.  As  soon  as  the  syrup  in  the  dish  is  blood-warm, 
stir  it  with  a  wooden  spoon,  or  paddle,  until  it  begins  to  crumble. 
It  should  be  a  smooth  white  mass,  and  when  it  has  come  to  this 
stage  should  be  kneaded  in  the  hands  like  dough.  Pack  it  into  a 
bowl,  cover  it  with  a  thin  cloth,  slightly  moistened,  and  set  it  away 
until  needed. 


596  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Chop  nuts  and  roll  in  this  fondant,  or  roll  in  it  whole.  Citron 
cut  into  strips  may  be  coated  with  it. 

Cream  dates 

Stone  dates,  opening  at  one  side  only,  fill  with  fondant,  close 
gently  into  the  original  shape  and  sprinkle  with  sugar. 

Butterscotch 

Wet  a  pound  of  brown  sugar  with  a  cupful  of  water,  into  which 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  have  been  stirred.  Put  into  an 
agate  saucepan.  Cook  for  ten  minutes,  add  four  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter  and  boil  until  a  drop  hardens  in  cold  water.  Pour  into 
large  buttered  tins,  and  as  it  cools,  mark  off  into  squares. 

Lemon  butter 

Boil  together  half  a  pound  of  brown  sugar,  a  tablespoonful  of 
vinegar  and  a  gill  of  water  for  ten  minutes,  and  add  a  heaping 
tablespoonful  of  butter.  Boil  until  the  candy  becomes  brittle 
when  dropped  into  cold  water,  and  take  from  the  fire.  Add  to  it 
the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  pour  into  a  shallow,  well-greased  pan. 

Hoarhound  candy  (made  from  fresh  leaves) 

Make  a  strong  solution  of  hoarhound  leaves;  strain  this,  and 
put  a  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  it  over  the  fire  with  a  pound  of  brown 
sugar  and  a  very  little  water.  Cook  until  a  little  dropped  in  cold 
water  is  brittle.  Add  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  boil  up  once  and 
turn  into  greased  tins. 

Hoarhound  candy  (made  from  dried  leaves) 

Steep  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  dried  hoarhound  leaves  in 
half  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  for  one  hour,  then  strain  and 
squeeze.  Add  the  liquid  to  two  cupfuls  of  brown  sugar,  put  over 
the  fire  in  a  saucepan,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Put 
in  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  and  boil  until  the  candy  breaks 


HOME-MADE    CANDIES  597 

when  dropped  into  cold  water.     Drop  from  the  point  of  the  spoon 
upon  buttered  paper,  or  pour  into  a  pan  and  cut  into  squares. 

Wintergreen  candy 

Made  as  directed  in  last  recipes,  substituting  wintergreen  for 
hoarhound. 

Walnut  creams 

Beat  the  whites  of  an  egg  very  light  with  enough  XXX  sugar 
to  make  it  very  stiff.  Now  add  cream,  a  few  drops  at  a  time,  until 
the  mixture  is  of  the  consistency  of  putty,  working  it  with  the 
hands  until  it  is  soft  and  smooth.  Flavor  with  vanilla,  or  with 
lemon  juice  and  the  grated  rind.  Roll  into  small  balls,  flatten 
these,  and  press  a  half  walnut  on  each  side  of  every  ball. 

French  cream  almonds 

Four  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar ;  one  cupful  of  boiling  water ; 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  glucose. 

Stir  until  mixed  and  dissolved,  then  cover,  and  boil  until  the 
syrup  strings.  Pour  into  a  crock  and  allow  it  to  stand  undis- 
turbed until  cool  enough  for  you  to  hold  your  finger  in  it.  Stir 
with  a  wooden  spoon  until  thick ;  pour  upon  a  marble  slab  and 
knead  all  lumps  out.  Work  in  flavoring  and  coloring  if  desired. 
Mold  into  balls  and  press  a  blanched  almond  on  the  top  of  each 
ball. 

Creamed  English  walnuts 

For  this  use  the  large  English  walnuts,  cracking  them  carefully 
so  as  not  to  break  the  kernels.  Remove  each  half  in  one  piece 
and  free  it  from  all  bits  of  shell. 

Heat  over  boiling  water  half  a  pound  of  fondant  like  that  for 
which  directions  have  been  given  in  the  recipe  for  chocolate 
creams.  Flavor  it  with  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  extract,  stir  it 
until  it  becomes  creamy  and  dip  into  it  with  a  pair  of  small  sugar 
tongs  the  half  of  the  walnut.  Lift  it  out  carefully  and  lay  it  on 
waxed  paper  until  it  is  dry. 


598  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Or  you  may  make  a  fondant  of  another  kind  by  mixing  the 
white  of  an  egg  with  an  equal  quantity  of  cold  water  and  stirring 
into  it  enough  confectioner's  sugar  of  the  variety  known  as  "XXX" 
to  make  a  dough-like  past  that  can  be  handled  with  the  ringers. 
This  may  be  flavored  to  taste  with  vanilla  or  bitter  almond,  or 
any  other  extract,  and  formed  with  the  fingers  into  small  balls. 
To  each  side  of  this  may  be  pressed  the  flat  surface  of  an  English 
walnut  kernel.  They  may  then  be  laid  on  waxed  paper  in  a  box. 

Peanut  candy 

Boil  together  two  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  sugar  and  a  gill  of 
water,  without  stirring,  until  a  little,  when  dropped  into  cold 
water,  can  be  worked  into  a  soft  ball.  Now  add  a  tablespoonful 
of  butter  and  boil  until  the  candy  hardens  when  dropped  into 
cold  water.  Stir  in  a  cupful  of  shelled,  roasted  and  skinned  pea- 
nuts, turn  the  mixture  into  a  buttered  pan  and  cut  into  squares. 

Peanut  molasses  candy 

Boil  together  a  cupful,  each,  of  molasses  and  brown  sugar,  a 
tablespoonful  of  vinegar  and  two  of  butter.  When  a  little, 
dropped  into  cold  water,  is  brittle,  add  a  cupful  of  shelled,  roasted 
and  skinned  peanuts,  remove  at  once  from  the  fire,  add  a  teaspoon- 
ful  (scant)  of  baking-soda,  beat  hard,  and  pour  into  buttered 
pans. 

Nougat 

Boil  together  a  pound  of  sugar  and  a  half  cupful  of  cold  water 
until  it  becomes  brittle  if  dropped  into  cold  water.  Cover  the 
bottom 'of  a  well-buttered  shallow  tin  with  nut  kernels — hickory, 
walnut  and  pecans,  blanched  almonds,  strips  of  cocoanut,  bits  of 
figs,  dates  and  the  like.  Add  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice  to 
the  candy  when  it  is  done,  and  pour  it  over  the  fruit  and  nuts  in 
the  pan.  Let  it  get  cold  and  mark  into  squares  and  strips. 


HOME-MADE   CANDIES  599 

Creamed  burnt  almonds 

Put  two  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar  into  a  saucepan  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  water,  set  over  the  fire  and  stir  continually  with 
a  wooden  spoon.  As  soon  as  it  is  well  melted,  move  it  to  one  side 
of  the  fire,  drop  in  the  blanched  almonds,  and  take  them  out  at 
once  with  a  perforated  spoon,  or  candy  dipper.  Lay  them  on 
buttered  dishes  to  harden. 

Creamed  grapes 

Make  a  syrup  of  a  pound  of  sugar  and  a  gill  of  water.  Boil 
without  stirring  until  a  drop  put  into  iced  water  becomes  brittle. 
Remove  from  the  fire,  set  in  an  outer  pan  of  boiling  water,  and 
add  to  the  syrup  a  dessertspoonful  of  lemon  juice.  Run  a  stiff 
wire  or  the  prong  of  a  pickle  fork  through  each  grape,  and  dip 
them,  one  by  one,  in  the  hot  syrup,  then  lay  on  waxed  paper  to  dry. 

Creamed  popcorn 

Make  a  syrup  as  for  creamed  grapes  in  the  recipe  given  above, 
but  omit  the  lemon  juice.  Drop  into  the  syrup  enough  crisp  pop- 
corn to  make  it  thick;  take  out  this,  after  stirring  for  half  a 
minute,  by  the  great  spoonful  and  lay  on  greased  paper.  As  the 
mass  hardens  roll  a  spoonful  of  it  into  a  ball,  then  roll  this  over 
and  over  in  freshly  popped  and  sugared  corn,  until  the  white 
kernels  adhere  to  the  sticky  ball. 

Popcorn  balls 

Make  an  old-fashioned  molasses  candy,  and  just  before  remov- 
ing from  the  fire,  stir  in  enough  popcorn  to  thicken  it.  Take  the 
mixture  out  by  the  spoonful  and  roll,  as  soon  as  it  can  be  handled, 
into  balls,  then  roll  these  over  and  over  in  kernels  of  popcorn  until 
no  more  will  adhert  xo  the  balls. 

Sugared  peanuts 

Prepare  as  you  would  salted  nuts,  but  substitute  butter  for 
oil,  and  fine  sugar  for  salt,  after  you  have  rolled  the  nuts  in  the 


600  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

white  of  an  egg,  beaten  light.     Spread  out  upon  white  paper  to 
dry  in  the  sun,  or  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Orange  straws 

Select  thick-skinned  oranges,  and  cut  the  peel  in  strips  a  quar- 
ter inch  wide.  Have  a  pan  of  boiling  water  on  the  stove,  and 
place  as  many  pieces  of  the  peel  in  the  water  as  you  can  easily 
handle.  Let  it  boil  five  minutes,  drain,  cover  again  with  boiling 
water,  boil  five  minutes  more,  drain  again,  once  more  cover  with 
boiling  water  and  boil  five  minutes,  making  fifteen  in  all.  Drain 
thoroughly,  then  -make  a  syrup  of  one  teacupful  of  sugar  to  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  water ;  when  this  boils  add  the  peel,  and  cook 
until  this  is  absorbed  (about  twenty  minutes)  ;  remove  from  the 
pan,  and,  while  hot,  roll  each  straw  in  granulated  sugar  which  you 
have  placed  previously  upon  clean  paper.  Then  put  each  straw 
on  paper  in  a  pan  until  the  bottom  of  the  pan  is  covered,  and  place 
in  a  warm  oven  until  all  are  dry.  Have  the  sugar  to  roll  the 
straws  in  and  all  ingredients  ready  before  beginning  the  cooking, 
as  the  straws  must  be  handled  very  rapidly.  They  will  keep  for 
weeks  and  not  become  sticky.  One  cup  of  sugar  will  do  for  five 
oranges. 

Candied  orange  peel 

When  peeling  the  orange  cut  the  rind  into  quarters,  then  cut 
into  long  strips.  Put  into  a  pan,  cover  with  cold  water,  bring 
to  the  boil  and  drain.  To  six  oranges  allow  one  and  a  half  cup- 
fuls  of  granulated  sugar  and  a  cupful  of  water;  put  these  into 
a  granite  saucepan  and  bring  to  a  hard  boil.  Add  the  orange 
peel  and  boil  down  quickly,  taking  care  not  to  burn.  When  the 
liquid  is  almost  cooked  away  take  the  saucepan  off  the  stove  and 
stir  in  a  cupful  of  sugar.  Stir  until  almost  cold,  pick  apart  with 
the  fingers,  and  lay  on  a  plate. 

Candied  pineapple 

Peel,  slice  and  weigh  the  pineapple,  and  allow  a  pound  and  a 
half  of  granulated  sugar  to  each  pound  of  fruit.  Put  the  fruit 


HOME-MADE    CANDIES  601 

and  sugar  together  in  a  granite  kettle  and  add  just  enough  water 
to  cover  the  fruit.  Boil  until  the  fruit  is  tender,  remove  and 
spread  on  a  dish  to  cool  while  you  boil  the  syrup  until  very  thick. 
Now  lay  in  the  pineapple ;  cook  and  stir  for  five  minutes  more,  and 
then  spread  the  sliced  fruit  on  platters  until  dry  and  "candied." 

Candied  citron 

Peel  and  core  the  citron  and  cut  into  strips.  Weigh  the  fruit, 
and  allow  a  pound  of  sugar  to  each  pound  of  the  citron  strips. 
Make  a  syrup,  allowing  a  cupful  of  water  to  each  po'und  of  sugar. 
Cook  the  citron  in  this  until  it  is  tender;  remove  and  spread  on 
dishes.  Boil  in  the  syrup  enough  ginger  to  give  a  slight  flavor, 
and  when  the  syrup  is  very  thick  stir  in  a  little  lemon  juice.  Now 
lay  the  strips  of  citron  back  in  the  syrup,  and  stir  until  candied 
and  coated  with  sugar.  Lay  on  a  platter  to  cool  and  dry. 

Marshmallows 

Soak  four  ounces  of  pulverized  gum  arabic  in  a  teacupful  of 
cold  water  for  two  hours.  Put  into  a  double  boiler  with  cold 
water  in  the  outer  vessel  and  bring  gradually  to  the  scalding  point. 
When  the  gum  is  dissolved,  strain  through  coarse  muslin,  return 
to  the  double  boiler  with  a  heaping  cupful  of  powdered  sugar, 
and  stir  steadily  until  the  mixture  is  white  and  stiff.  Remove 
from  the  fire,  beat  very  hard  for  a  minute  and  flavor  with 
vanilla;  beat  a  minute  longer,  and  pour  into  tins,  the  insides  of 
which  have  been  rubbed  with  corn-starch.  When  the  paste  is 
cool  cut  it  into  squares  of  uniform  size  and  turn  each  of  these 
over  and  over  in  a  mixture  made  of  three  parts  corn-starch  and 
one  part  powdered  sugar.  Keep  packed  in  a  tin  box  until  wanted, 
as  they  soon  dry  if  exposed  to  the  air. 

Peanut  brittle 

Boil  together  a  cupful,  each,  of  molasses  and  brown  sugar,  a 
tablespoonful  of  vinegar  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter.  When 
a  little  dropped  into  cold  water  is  brittle,  add  a  cupful  of  blanched 


602  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

peanuts;  remove  at  once   from  the  fire,   add  a  teaspoonful   of 
baking-soda,  beat  hard,  and  pour  into  buttered  pans. 

Hickory  nut  candy 

Prepare  half  a  cupful  of  hickory  nut  kernels  by  chopping  them. 
Boil  together  one  cupful  of  "A"  sugar,  one-third  of  a  cupful  of 
water,  and  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut  until  it  makes 
a  soft  lump  when  tested  in  water.  Remove  from  the  fire  and  stir 
in  the  nuts.  When  it  begins  to  look  cloudy,  pour  by  the  spoonful 
into  buttered  tins.  It  will  spread  into  flat  cakes. 


Maple  nut  candy 

Butter  a  shallow  tin  and  cover  the  bottom  with  butternut  meats. 
Place  on  the  cooler  part  of  the  stove  one  quart  of  maple  sugar  and 
one  cupful  of  water.  Cook  slowly  and  test  in  water.  When 
done,  pour  over  the  nut  meats.  Before  it  hardens,  mark  into 
squares. 

Crystallized  fruits 

Make  a  syrup  of  a  pound  of  sugar  and  a  gill  of  water.  Boil, 
without  stirring,  until  a  drop  put  into  iced  water  becomes  imme- 
diately brittle.  Remove  the  saucepan  from  the  fire  and  set  it  at 
once  in  an  outer  pan  of  boiling  water.  Add  to  the  syrup  the  juice 
of  a  quarter  of  a  lemon.  Run  the  prongs  of  a  sharp  pickle  fork 
through  each  piece  of  fruit  to  be  candied,  and  dip  it  in  the  hot 
syrup.  Lay  on  buttered  or  waxed  paper  to  dry. 

Stuffed  dates 

Remove  the  stones  from  dates  and  fill  with  a  mixture  made  as 
follows : 

Put  into  an  agate  saucepan  one  cupful  of  granulated  sugar  and 
a  gill  of  cold  water,  with  half  a  saltspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar. 
Stir  just  long  enough  to  dissolve  the  sugar,  then  boil,  without 
touching,  until  a  drop  put  into  cold  water  can  be  formed  into  a 
soft  ball.  Remove. from  the  fire  immediately,  skim  off  every  par- 


HOME-MADE    CANDIES  603 

tide  of  crust,  if  there  be  any  upon  the  surface  of  the  syrup,  and 
pour  the  syrup  into  a  bowl.  When  so  cool  and  thick  that  the 
finger  leaves  a  dent  when  pressed  upon  it,  stir  with  a  wooden 
spoon  to  a  smooth  white  paste.  When  too  stiff  to  stir  with  a 
spoon,  work  the  mixture  with  the  hands.  This  filling  will  keep 
for  weeks.  When  you  wish  to  use  it,  set  the  cup  containing  it 
in  a  pan  of  hot  water  until  soft  enough  to  handle. 


AFTERNOON  TEA 


IN  every  respectable  English  dwelling,  be  it  palace  or  cottage, 
tea  is  served  between  four  and  five  o'clock  every  afternoon  in  the 
year.  The  crone  in  the  almshouse  takes  hers  direct  from  the  hob 
in  winter,  and  in  summer  hobbles  with  her  black  teapot,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  the  precious  leaves  in  the  bottom,  to  the  common 
kitchen  to  have  it  filled.  Her  betters  in  name  and  in  worldly  gear 
assemble  about  the  tea  equipage  in  drawing  room  or  library,  or 
in  the  family  "parlor." 

For  the  wealthy  there  are  tea-tables  of  divers  patterns,  some 
with  leaves  that  draw  out  to  accommodate  cups  and  saucers  when 
set  in  array.  The  conventional  afternoon  tea-table  is  lower  than 
that  intended  to  hold  bric-a-brac  and  books.  The  chair  occupied 
by  the  mistress  of  the  house  or  one  of  her  daughters  is  low  and 
broad,  that  she  may  sit  at  her  ease  while  making  and  dispensing 
the  beverage.  The  central  figure  upon  the  tray  is  a  teakettle  of 
silver,  copper,  brass  or  lacquered  Japanese  ware,  with 
a  spirit  lamp  beneath.  When  the  water  boils  the  tea  is 
"masked,"  i.  e.,  a  little  is  poured  upon  the  dry  leaves  in 
the  pot,  a  wadded  "cozy"  is  fitted  over  the  latter,  and 
the  tea  is  "drawn"  for  about  two  minutes  before  the  rest  of  the 
water  is  added. 

The  cups  are  passed  by  a  servant  if  none  of  the  young  people 
of  the  family  or  intimate  friends  are  present  to  whom  the  graceful 
task  can  be  delegated.  The  tone  of  the  whole  function  is  easy 
sociability. 

This  is  especially  marked  in  the  English  country  house,  where 

604 


AFTERNOON    TEA  605 

sportsmen,  who  have  been  out  with  the  dogs  and  gamekeeper 
all  day,  are  allowed  to  drift  into  the  drawing-room,  in  splashed 
gaiters  and  knickerbockers,  for  a  chat  and  a  cup  of  hot  tea  before 
going  off  to  dress  for  dinner. 

As  accompaniments  to  the  tea  we  have  a  basket  of  light  cakes 
or  biscuits,  thin  bread  and  butter,  now  and  then  buttered  scones 
or  "tea  cake."  Anything  more  elaborate  mars  the  simplicity  of 
the  custom,  perverting  it  into  an  "occasion."  It  ceases  to  be 
afternoon  tea,  a  rest  station  between  the  one  o'clock  luncheon 
and  the  seven  or  eight  o'clock  dinner.  In  some  towns  and  cities 
— particularly  in  the  lavish  South — the  effort  to  introduce  this 
simplest  of  social  functions  has  failed  ignominiously,  because — 
like  dish-washing,  toast-making  and  tea-making,  speaking  the 
truth  and  spelling  correctly — the  right  way  of  doing  it  is  too  easy 
to  learn.  The  "spread"  of  oysters,  salads,  cakes  and  creams, 
bouillon  and  bonbons,  flummery  and  fruit,  into  which  the  im- 
ported custom  degenerated,  was  as  foreign  to  the  true  spirit  of 
the  original  as  the  crush  of  elaborately  dressed  women  and  the 
sprinkle  of  uncomfortable  men  who  attended  the  teas  was  to  the 
cordial  informality  that  should  obtain  with  guests  and  enter- 
tainers. 

It  is  a  wholesome  symptom  in  our  feverish  social  system  that  the 
beneficent  break  in  the  diurnal  rush  and  press  furnished  by  after- 
noon tea-time  is  becoming  more  and  more  prevalent.  In  tens  of 
thousands  of  homes,  in  city  and  in  country,  five  o'clock  brings 
together  the  scattered  parts  of  the  home  circle  in  the  living-room. 
Jaunty  wicker  stands,  three  and  four-storied,  for  holding  plates 
of  fancy  biscuits,  thin  bread  and  butter,  cake  and  crisp  strips  of 
lightly  buttered  toast  spread  with  anchovy  paste,  have  crept  into 
conservative  drawing-rooms ;  teakettle,  teapot  and  their  appur- 
tenances appear  duly  at  the  stroke  of  the  hour,  and  visitors  who 
happen  to  call  at  that 'hour  are  cordially  made  welcome  to  the 
grateful  refreshment.  "Tea"  is  always  there,  no  matter  who 
comes  or  goes,  and  it  typifies  what  we  need  more  than  all  else 
besides  in  a  land  where  labor  is  the  rule  and  relaxation  the  ex- 
ception— home  joys,  home  comfort,  home  rest! 

Five  o'clock  tea  has  come  to  stay!     Whether  as  a  simple  re- 


606  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

freshment  for  busy  women  who  long  for  a  life-saving  station  in 
the  afternoon  rush,  or  as  an  informal — and  inexpensive — fashion 
of  entertaining  one's  friends,  it  seems  to  be  as  firm  a  fixture  on 
this  side  of  the  Atlantic  as  on  the  other. 

One  of  the  chief  charms  of  the  afternoon  tea  is  its  adaptability. 
It  may  be  as  much  or  as  little  of  a  function  as  one  chooses.  I  do 
not  refer  now  to  the  cup  of  tea  that  the  hostess  pours  for  herself 
or  the  chance  friend  every  afternoon  in  the  week,  but  to  the  tea 
where  guests  are  regularly  invited.  It  may  be  madame's  At 
Home  day,  which  extends  over  a  period  of  a  few  weeks,  or  runs 
through  the  whole  winter,  or  it  may  be  one  of  the  more  formal 
occasions,  to  which  guests  are  invited  in  droves,  and  social  debts 
thereby  paid  en  bloc. 

For  the  simpler  function  it  is  easy  to  lay  down  rules.  Little 
is  required  for  it.  If  it  is  to  be  a  weekly  affair  for  which  cards 
are  issued  early  in  the  season,  it  is  foolish  to  plan  an  elaborate 
menu,  and  even  worse  than  foolish,  for  it  is  in  bad  taste.  The 
guest  who  goes  to  such  a  day,  "at  home,"  does  not  expect  a 
"spread,"  and  the  hostess  who  offers  too  much  makes  life  harder 
for  the  timid  woman  of  small  means  who  is  not  quite  sure  what  is 
the  correct  thing,  but  is  only  positive  that  it  must  be  expensive. 

For  the  ordinary  one-day-every-week-all-winter  afternoon  tea 
there  are  many  houses  where  one  has  only  bread  and  butter  or 
fancy  biscuits  and  a  simple  cake.  I  know  one  woman  who  prides 
herself  upon  the  quality  of  the  doughnuts  she  serves  at  her  after- 
noon teas,  and  they  are  the  only  sweets  she  has  beyond  a  little 
dish  of  bonbons.  To  be  sure,  there  are  simple  sandwiches  or 
thin  bread  and  butter,  but  further  than  this  she  does  not  go 
except  for  some  special  occasion. 

For  such  an  Afternoon  Tea  the  following  menus  are  offered  as 
suggestions : 

AFTERNOON  TEA  MENU.     I 

Caviar  Sandwiches  Creamed  Chicken  Sandwiches 

Fancy  Cakes 
Te~,  or  Coffee,  or  Chocolate 


AFTERNOON-TEA    ON    THE    VERANDA 


AFTERNOON  TEA  607 

AFTERNOON  TEA  MENU.  II 

Chicken  and  Celery  Sandwiches  Anchovy  Toast 

Fancy  Cakes 
Tea,  or  Coffee,  or  Chocolate 

These  menus  may  be  modified  in  many  ways.  Other  varieties 
of  sandwiches  may  be  provided.  Both  tea  and  coffee,  or  tea  and 
chocolate,  may  be  offered.  Plain  cake  may  be  supplied  instead 
of  the  fancy  cakes,  and  a  good  tea  biscuit  may  be  given  instead  of 
one  kind  of  sandwiches.  Little  dishes  of  bonbons  may  stand  by 
to  supplement  the  feast. 

For  these,  as  for  the  ordinary  afternoon  tea  where  there  are  no 
invited  guests,  the  preparations  are  the  same.  The  tea-table  is 
not  to  be  left  standing  fully  equipped  to  gather  dust  when 
it  is  not  in  use.  The  cups  and  saucers  and  other  tea  plenishings 
are  brought  in  on  a  tray  and  placed  on  the  table.  This  may  be 
a  regular  tea-table,  or  it  may  be  the  table  one  finds  in  every  draw- 
ing-room where  are  piled  the  magazines  and  books  of  the  day. 
These  may  be  swept  to  one  side  to  make  space  for  the  tray.  The 
hostess  may  make  the  tea  and  pour  it,  or  it  may  be  brought  in 
ready  from  the  kitchen. 

When  tea-time  extends  over  the  whole  afternoon,  a  tea-ball 
will  prove  of  value.  Then  each  guest  is  sure  of  a  fresh  hot  cup 
of  tea,  and  while  the  alcohol  lamp  holds  out  to  burn  the  supply 
will  not  fail. 

If  there  are  a  good  many  guests  there  may  be  a  maid  at  hand 
to  pass  cups  and  offer  the  plates  of  sandwiches  and  sweets.  But, 
as  a  rule,  the  affair  is  so  informal  that  hostess  and  guests  wait  on 
themselves. 

With  the  cup  and  saucer  there  may  be  offered  a  plate,  and  some 
hostesses  offer  doilies  as  well,  but  this  is  not  obligatory.  The 
maid  is  chiefly  needed  to  replenish  the  hot  water,  to  take  away 
empty  cups  and  the  like,  and  if  she  is  within  sound  of  the  bell,  it 
answers  as  well  as  though  she  were  at  the  elbow  of  the  hostess. 

When  the  tea  is  to  be  a  larger  and  more  formal  function,  mat- 
ters are  differently  arranged.  In  those  cases  where  a  hostess 


608  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

gives  perhaps  two  days,  and  invites  all  her  dear  five  hundred 
friends  to  be  present  at  one  or  the  other  of  them,  there  is  not 
room  in  the  drawing-room  for  the  tea-table  nor  place  for  the 
chatty  informality  of  the  simpler  afternoon  tea.  The  table  is 
laid  in  the  dining-room,  or  the  library,  and  a  friend  is  invited  to 
"pour."  If  there  are  two  beverages, — as  there  are,  almost  in- 
variably,— one  friend  takes  each  end  of  the  table,  and  there  may 
be  even  a  third,  presiding  over  another  hot  drink,  or  over  the 
punch  bowl.  A  waitress  or  two  must  be  at  hand  to  take  away  the 
dishes  that  have  been  used  and  bring  fresh,  and  to  see  that  the 
guests  have  enough  to  eat  and  drink.  The  hostess  has  no  time  to 
see  to  anything  beyond  the  salutations  of  the  guests  as  they  come 
in,  and  can  only  suggest  to  them  that  they  go  out  to  the  dining- 
room  and  find  something  to  eat. 

Once  in  a  while,  a  hostess  will  give  no  more  than  is  contained 
in  the  menus  already  suggested,  except  that  the  supplies  of  all 
kinds  may  be  increased,  and  that  there  may  be  three  kinds  of 
sandwiches,  instead  of  one  or  two,  and  a  larger  choice  in  the 
matter  of  cake.  Two  hot  drinks,  at  least,  must  be  supplied. 

But  in  so  large  a  function  the  bill  of  fare  is  more  likely  to  be 
something  like  the  followin~: 

AFTERNOON    TEA    MENU.     Ill 

Bouillon 
Lobster  Sandwiches  Chicken  Truffle  Sandwiches 

Lettuce  Sandwiches 
Salted  Almonds  Olives  Bonbons  Cakes 

Tea  Coffee 

Chocolate,  or  Claret  Punch 

When  an  afternoon  tea  gets  to  this  stage  it  may  still  be  called 
"a  tea,"  but  it  has  gone  far  beyond  that,  and  has  become  a  day- 
time reception.  Even  if  the  sun  is  shining  outside  there  is  usu- 
ally artificial  light  in  the  rooms.  The  lamps  are  burning  with 
a  pleasant  subdued  light,  there  are  candles  with  colored  shades, 
the  women  who  are  receiving  and  presiding  over  the  table  are  in 
full  dress.  The  table  itself  is  beautiful  with  china  and  cut  glass 


AFTERNOON    TEA  609 

and  silver.  Flowers  are  about  everywhere,  and  except  that  the 
men  are  in  morning  dress  and  the  women  guests  in  street  costume, 
it  might  be  an  evening  party. 

There  is  a  reception  held  in  the  afternoon  that  is  even  more 
elaborate  than  this.  When  a  woman  wants  to  make  signal  some 
special  "occasion," — to  honor  a  guest,  or  perhaps  because  it  is 
the  only  "crush"  she  gives  in  the  year, — she  often  makes  it  a  tea. 
For  this  the  cards  will  be  out  ten  days  or  more  in  advance  and 
the  refreshments  provided  are  more  elegant  and  numerous  than 
those  mentioned  above.  Such  a  collation  might  be  as  follows : 

AFTERNOON   TEA    MENU.     IV 

Bouillon 

Chicken  or  Lobster  Salad  Creamed  Oysters 

Nut  Sandwiches  Sardine  Sandwiches 

Cream  Cheese  Sandwiches 
Olives  or  Pim-olas  Salted  Nuts  Bonbons 

Ices  Frappe  Cakes 

Tea  Coffee  Chocolate  Punch 

The  table  is  arranged  for  this  as  for  the  third  tea  mentioned, 
but  there  must  be  waiters  in  attendance,  and  they  serve  nearly 
everything.  In  most  cases  there  is  nothing  done  by  the  young 
women  friends  of  the  hostess  who  gather  in  the  din- 
ing-room except  entertain  the  guests  and  see  that  they 
have  enough  to  eat.  Once  in  a  while,  these  young 
women  may  preside  at  the  coffee-urn,  or  the  chocolate, 
or  teapot,  but  it  is  not  a  common  occurrence. 

The  matter  has  been  put  into  the  hands  of  "the  pro- 
fession." 

It  is  all  very  nice,  and  an  excellent  way  to  clear  the  debit  side 
of  one's  social  ledger,  but  the  mind  turns  to  the  quiet  afternoon 
tea-table  with  the  hot  tea  under  the  cozy,  the  saucer  /of  sliced 
lemon,  the  tiny  flask  of  rum  or  the  graceful  cream  jug,  the  sugar 
basin  and  plate  of  sandwiches,  or  bread  and  butter,  with  affection 
one  never  cherishes  for  the  huge  kettledrum. 
39 


SOME  DAINTIES  FOR  AFTERNOON  TEA 

Tea  cakes 

Sift  a  quart  of  flour  three  times  with  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking-powder  and  one  of  salt.  Chop  into  this  a  tablespoonful 
of  butter  and  one  of  cottolene  or  other  fat. 

(In  all  preparations  requiring  shortening,  cottolene  is  prefera- 
ble to  lard.) 

Mix  in  a  bowl  with  a  wooden  spoon,  adding  about  three  cup- 
fuls  of  milk,  or  enough  to  make  a  soft  dough.  Turn  out  upon 
your  board  and  roll,  with  swift,  light  strokes  into  a  sheet  half  an 
inch  in  thickness.  Reverse  a  jelly-cake  tin  upon  the  sheet  and 
cut  with  a  sharp  knife  cakes  just  the  size  of  the  tin.  With  a  spat- 
ula, transfer  to  a  floured  baking-pan  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Split  while  hot,  butter  and  cut  into  triangular  pieces,  six  to 
each  cake.  Do  not  divide  them  until  the  triangles  are  drawn 
from  the  plate  by  those  who  are  to  eat  them. 

Tea  scones 

Mix  as  directed  in  recipe  for  tea  cakes,  but  cut  into  rounds 
with  a  small  biscuit  cutter.  Bake  upon  a  soapstone  griddle,  upon 
both  sides,  to  a  delicate  brown ;  split  and  butter  while  hot.  Line 
a  plate  or  a  tray  with  a  napkin,  lay  in  the  scones  and  fold  the 
corners  of  the  napkin  lightly  over  them. 

Oatmeal  scones 

To  three  cupfuls  of  oatmeal  add  one  of  white  flour,  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt  and  two  of  baking-powder.  Heat  three  cupfuls  of  milk 
to  scalding,  not  to  boiling,  stir  in  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar  with 

610 


DAINTIES    FOR   AFTERNOON    TEA  611 

two  and  a  half  of  butter,  and  mix  with  a  wooden  spoon  these 
ingredients  into  a  soft  dough. 

Do  not  touch  it  with  your  hands. 

Turn  out  upon  a  kneading-board,  roll  into  a  sheet  less  than  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  cut  into  rounds  with  a  large  biscuit- 
cutter,  and  bake  upon  a  hot  soapstone  griddle,  turning  to  brown. 
Butter  while  hot. 

Virginia  wafers 

Rub  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  pint  of  flour,  add 
enough  iced  water  to  make  a  stiff  dough,  put  up  on  a  floured  pas- 
try board,  and  roll  out  as  thin  as  writing  paper  in  rounds  as 
large  as  a  saucer.  Bake  in  a  floured  pan  in  a  quick  oven. 

They  should  be  rough  and  "bubbly"  on  top.    Eat  cold. 

Corn-meal  tea  cakes 

Mix  fine  white  corn-meal  with  boiling  milk;  gradually  add  a 
little  salt,  and  let  it  simmer  half  an  hour  or  more,  then  drop  it 
from  a  large  spoon  upon  a  soapstone  griddle,  and  bake  on  both 
sides  to  an  even  brown.  Butter  and  eat  hot. 

Bristol  tea  cakes 

Rub  two  level  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  into  four  cupfuls  of 
sifted  flour;  mix  it  with  thin  cream  to  a  soft  dough  to  roll  out; 
toss  the  dough  upon  a  floured  board,  cut  with  a  biscuit  cutter 
into  rounds  and  bake  on  a  hot  griddle,  or  in  the  oven ;  split  and 
butter  them ;  serve  on  a  napkin. 

Raisin  bread 

Make  as  you  would  ordinary  white  bread,  with  the  addition  of 
one-half  cupful  of  raisins  to  a  small  loaf.  Spread  thin,  triangular 
slices  of  this  with  butter,  and  then  with  a  layer  of  cream  cheese. 


612  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Hot  milk  tea  cakes 

Into  three  well-whipped  eggs  beat  a  cupful  of  sugar,  a  large 
cupful  of  prepared  flour,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  Beat  hard  ; 
add  a  gill  of  scalding  hot  milk,  stir  in  quickly  and  turn  the  mix- 
ture into  greased  pate-pans.  These  cakes  are  best  if  eaten  hot, 
but  are  also  good  cold. 

Stuffed  rolls 

Light  rolls,  shaped  like  ringer  rolls,  but  larger,  may  be  cut 
open  on  one  side,  the  crumb  dug  out  and  the  cavity  filled  with 
minced  and  seasoned  chicken,  turkey,  ham,  or  tongue.  Close 
the  roll  and  bind  it  with  narrow  ribbon  tied  with  a  bow  and  float- 
ing ends.  You  may  tie  the  ham  rolls  with  one  color,  the  chicken 
with  another. 

Peanut  crisps 

One  cupful  of  roasted  and  chopped  peanuts,  one  cupful  of 
powdered  sugar,  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  the  whites  of  two 
eggs.  The  mixture  is  dropped  on  a  buttered  paper  and  baked 
to  a  light  brown  in  a  moderate  oven.  A  quart  of  unshelled  pea- 
nuts will  yield  the  necessary  cupful  of  chopped  nuts. 

Salted  almonds 

Shell  and  blanch  the  almonds  by  pouring  boiling  water  over 
them,  letting  them  stand  for  ten  minutes,  then  stripping  off  the 
skins.  Dry  the  nuts  between  the  folds  of  a  clean  dish  towel,  and 
put  them  in  a  baking-pan  with  a  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter. 
Turn  them  over  and  over  in  this  until  all  are  coated,  then  set  the 
pan  in  the  oven  until  the  nuts  are  delicately  browned,  stirring 
often,  that  all  may  brown  evenly.  Turn  into  a  colander,  strew 
thickly  with  fine  salt,  and  shake  the  colander  hard  to  dislodge 
superfluous  salt  and  grease.  When  cold,  the  nuts  will  be  crisp. 
Keep  in  a  dry  place. 


DAINTIES    FOR    AFTERNOON    TEA  613 

Peanut  butter  for  sandwiches 

Shell  and  skin  freshly-roasted  peanuts  and  pound  or  grind 
them  to  a  fine  powder.  Mix  to  a  smooth  paste,  with  half  as  much 
butter  as  you  have  peanut  powder.  If  the  butter  is  rather  fresh, 
add  a  little  salt. 

Cream  cheese  for  sandwiches 

Into  a  broad  pan  pour  the  fresh  warm  milk  as  soon  as  possible 
after  it  is  milked;  set  at  the  side  of  the  range  and  bring  slowly 
to  the  point  where  it  just  begins  to  simmer.  Remove  at  once 
and  set  in  the  ice-box,  where  it  will  cool  suddenly,  and  leave  it 
there  for  six  or  eight  hours.  Now  skim  and  press  the  clotted 
cream  into  small  jars  or  deep  saucers.  Sprinkle  the  top  of  the 
cream  with  fine  salt,  and  cover.  Keep  in  a  cold  place  until  wanted. 

Marguerites 

The  white  of  one  egg,  partly  beaten ;  two  tablespoonf  uls  of 
sugar,  and  one-half  cupful  of  chopped  walnuts.  Stir  all  together 
and  spread  on  wafers,  or  upon  long  narrow  crackers.  Bake  to  a 
light  brown. 

Ham  and  chicken  sandwiches 

Into  a  pint  of  cold  boiled  or  roast  chicken,  chopped  very  fine, 
stir  a  cupful  of  minced  ham ;  season  with  a  few  minced  olives, 
and  moisten  with  salad  oil.  Add  white  pepper  to  taste,  and  spread 
between  thin  slices  of  crustless  white  bread,  buttered  lightly. 

Cheese  and  olive  sandwiches 

Mix  cream  cheese  and  chopped  olives  together;  spread  very 
thin  slices  of  bread  with  the  mixture ;  serve  on  a  folded  napkin. 

Egg  and  olive  sandwiches 

Boil  six  eggs  hard,  remove  the  shells  and  chop  the  eggs  very, 
very  fine.  Stone  and  chop  eighteen  large  olives,  and  mix  these 


614  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

with  the  minced  egg.  Moisten  all  with  a  little  melted  butter, 
season  to  tas'te  and  mix  to  a  moist  paste.  Spread  on  thin  slices 
of  crustless  bread,  and  press  the  two  halves  of  the  sandwich 
firmly  together. 

Lettuce  and  cream  cheese  sandwiches 

Cut  white  bread  into  very  thin  slices  and  remove  the  crusts, 
then  butter  lightly.  Spread  with  Philadelphia  cream  cheese.  Dip 
a  leaf  of  crisp  lettuce  in  a  French  salad  dressing,  and  lay  it  upon 
a  slice  of  the  bread,  then  press  another  slice  upon  it.  With  a  sharp 
pair  of  scissors  trim  off  the  projecting  leaf  of  lettuce.  Pile  these 
sandwiches  on  a  plate,  cover  and  keep  in  the  ice-box  until  wanted. 


FRAPPE   BEVERAGES 

A  PLEASANT  custom  prevalent  at  many  summer  afternoon  teas 
is  that  of  passing  nearly  frozen  beverages  for  the  refreshment 
and  delectation  of  the  guests.  These  glaces  or  frappes  are  so 
easily  prepared  that  the  veriest  tyro  in  the  ice-making  art  need 
not  be  afraid  to  attempt  them.  On  a  warm  day  they  are  a  refresh- 
ing variety  upon  the  conventional  cup  of  tea,  and  are  so  light 
and  innocuous  as  not  to  interfere  with  the  enjoyment  of  the  din- 
ner which  must  come  an  hour  or  two  later.  These  ices  are  served 
in  glasses,  and  with  spoons. 

Cafe*  frappe 

Put  two  cupfuls  of  finely-ground  coffee  into  a  large  French 
coffee-pot,  or  biggin,  and  pour  upon  it  two  quarts  of  boiling 
water.  When  this  has  dripped  through  the  strainer,  pour  it  into 
a  pitcher  and  turn  it  back  into  the  strainer.  Repeat  this  process 
four  times,  then  pour  the  clear  coffee  into  a  bowl,  and  stir  into 
it  two  large  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar.  Stir  until  the  sugar  is 
dissolved  and  set  aside  to  cool.  When  cold,  add  the  unbeaten 
whites  of  two  eggs,  turn  into  a  freezer  and  grind  until  frozen, 


DAINTIES    FOR   AFTERNOON    TEA  615 

but  still  rather  soft.  When  turned  into  a  glass  it  should  be  of 
about  the  consistency  of  soft  snow.  This  rule  of  consistency 
applies  to  all  these  frozen  beverages. 

Tea  frapp6 

Scald  a  china  teapot,  put  into  it  six  teaspoonfuls  of  the  best 
mixed  tea  and  pour  upon  it  eight  cupfuls  of  freshly-boiling  water. 
Let  this  stand  for  six  or  eight  minutes,  strain  it  into  a  bowl,  and 
sweeten  to  taste.  When  cold,  turn  into  the  freezer. 

Frosted  lemonade 

Boil  together  for  fifteen  minutes  two  quarts  of  water,  and  four 
cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar.  Remove  from  the  fire  and  when  the 
syrup  is  lukewarm,  add  the  juice  of  a  dozen  lemons.  Set  aside 
until  cold,  then  freeze. 

Frozen  orangeade 

Mix  together  the  juice  from  six  oranges  and  two  lemons.  Boil 
together  three  cupfuls  of  water  and  one  cupful  of  sugar  for  ten 
minutes ;  remove  from  the  fire  and  add  the  orange  and  lemon 
juice.  When  cold,  add  the  unbeaten  white  of  one  egg,  and  freeze. 

Frozen  raspberry  juice 

Mash  two  quarts  of  red  raspberries  and  cover  them  with  three 
heaping  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar.  Let  this  stand  in  a  warm 
place  for  an  hour,  then  press  through  a  cheese-cloth  bag  or  a 
vegetable  press  to  extract  all  the  juice.  To  this  add  the  juice  of 
three  lemons  and  of  one  orange,  and  two  quarts  of  cold  water. 
Stir  well  together  and  freeze.  Some  persons  put  a  spoonful  of 
whipped  cream  upon  each  glass  of  this  ice.  The  contrast  of  the 
white  with  the  pink  is  very  pretty. 


616  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Ginger  ale  frappe" 

Open  three  bottles  of  imported  ginger  ale  and  turn  the  con- 
tents into  a  bowl.  Add  the  juice  of  four  lemons  and  a  half  cup- 
ful of  granulated  sugar.  Stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved ;  turn  the 
mixture  into  a  freezer,  and  freeze.  This  ice  is  very  refreshing. 

WAFERS 

Graham  wafers 

Sift  three  cupfuls  of  graham  flour  and  one  cupful  of  white 
flour  with  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking  powder.  Melt  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  with  one  of 
sugar  in  a  pint  of  scalding  milk.  Make  a  hole  in  the  middle  of 
the  flour,  and  pour  this  in.  Stir  to  a  soft  dough,  turn  upon  a 
floured  pastry-board,  roll  out  quickly  and  lightly  into  a  thin  sheet, 
cut  into  rounds  with  a  biscuit-cutter,  and  bake  in  a  floured  baking 
pan  until  brown  and  crisp.  While  hot,  spread  lightly  with  butter. 

Lemon  wafers 

Cream  a  cup  of  butter  with  two  cups  of  sugar,  work  in  two 
beaten  eggs,  a  small  cup  of  cold  water  and  the  grated  rind  and  the 
juice  of  a  large  lemon.  Add  flour  to  make  the  dough  stiff  enough 
to  roll  out ;  roll  very  thin,  cut  into  rounds  and  bake.  Orange  wafers 
may  be  made  in  the  same  way. 

Vanilla  wafers 

Cream  a  cup  of  butter  with  two  cups  of  sugar,  add  three  well- 
beaten  eggs  and  vanilla  to  taste.  Stir  in  just  enough  flour  to 
make  a  soft  dough  that  can  be  rolled.  Roll  very  thin,  cut  into 
rounds,  and  bake. 

Peanut  wafers 

Cream  together  four  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  and  a  half-cup  of 
sugar.  When  this  mixture  is  soft  and  creamy  add  the  well- 
whipped  yolks  of  two  eggs,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  a  cup 
of  roasted  and  ground  peanuts,  and  enough  flour  to  make  a  good 
dough.  Roll  into  a  thin  sheet,  cut  into  rounds  and  bake. 


STEWED  FRUIT,  PRESERVES,  FRUIT  JELLIES, 
MARMALADES,  ETCETERA 

STEWED    FRUIT 

Much  of  the  excellence  of  stewed  fruit  depends  upon  the  man- 
ner in  which  it  is  cooked.  As  it  is  served,  in  nine  cases  out  of 
ten,  it  has  a  medicated  "tang"  that  is  far  from  agreeable — pro- 
duced by  the  cooking  of  the  sugar  with  the  fruit.  She  who  is 
familiar  with  this  form  of  the  sweetmeat  alone  has  no  concep- 
tion of  how  palatable  a  dessert  it  makes  if  properly  prepared. 
Served  with  plain  or  sponge  cake  it  is  a  convenient  dessert  for 
Sunday  night's  supper,  or  for  the  dainty  family  luncheon.  But 
the  housekeeper  who  would  have  her  stewed  fruit  really  good 
must  be  willing  to  be  a  little  careful — perhaps  fussy — in  the  prep- 
aration thereof.  Apples  that  are  a  little  tough,  pears  that  are 
rather  tasteless  when  raw,  green  or  hard  peaches  and  sour  plums 
may,  with  the  help  of  the  stewing  kettle  and  the  housewife's 
ingenuity,  be  converted  into  tender,  toothsome  morsels.  Use 
always  an  agate-iron  or  porcelain-lined  preserving  kettle,  as  the 
action  of  the  acid  upon  tin  or  iron  darkens  the  fruit. 

Nearly  all  fruits  prepared  according  to  recipes  given  herewith 
may  be  kept  for  months  if  sealed  hot  in  glass  cans,  as  one  would 
can  vegetables  or  unsweetened  fruits.  They  are  more  whole- 
some than  the  pound-for-pound  preserves. 

Stewed  apples 

Peel  and  core  firm  apples,  dropping  them  into  cold  water  as 
you  do  so,  that  the  color  may  be  preserved.  Put  them  over  the 
fire  with  enough  boiling  water  to  cover  them,  and  let  them  simmer 
gently  until  very  tender,  but  not  broken.  With  a  perforated 


6i8  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

skimmer  remove  them  carefully  from  the  water  and  arrange 
them  in  a  deep  dish.  Strain  the  liquor  and  return  it  to  the  fire, 
putting  into  it  a  large  cupful  of  granulated  sugar  for  every  dozen 
apples  you  have  cooked.  Boil  to  a  syrup,  add  the  juice  of  one 
lemon  and  pour  over  the  apples.  Cover  closely  and  set  in  a  cold 
place  until  wanted.  These  apples  will  keep  in  the  ice-box  for 
several  days. 

Steamed  apples 

From  a  dozen  medium-sized  apples  remove  the  peeling  with 
a  sharp  knife,  taking  care  to  have  the  parings  as  thin  as  possible. 
Take  out  the  cores ;  put  the  apples,  side  by  side,  in  a  deep  pudding- 
dish,  and  pour  over  them  enough  water  almost  to  cover  them. 
Invert  a  plate,  or  pan,  over  the  pudding-dish,  set  it  in  the  oven 
and  steam  the  contents  until  each  apple  can  be  easily  pierced  with 
a  fork.  Remove  from  the  oven  and  lay  the  apples  carefully  in 
a  deep  dish.  Set  the  pudding-dish  containing  the  liquor  from  the 
apples  on  top  of  the  range,  add  to  it  a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar, 
and  bring  to  a  boil.  Simmer  for  twenty  minutes,  then  add  a 
dash  of  grated  nutmeg  and  a  pinch,  each,  of  mace  and  ground 
cloves.  Boil  to  a  syrup  and  pour  over  the  apples.  Eat  cold. 

Stewed  pears 

Peel  and  quarter  a  dozen  large  pears  and  remove  the  cores, 
laying  the  quartered  fruit  in  cold  water  as  you  do  so.  Put  them 
over  the  fire  with  a  pint  of  boiling  water  and  stew  until  tender. 
Remove  the  fruit  and  add  to  the  liquor  a  cupful  of  sugar,  a  stick 
of  cinnamon,  one  of  mace,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice. 
Boil  until  thick,  strain  the  syrup  and  pour  it  over  the  pears. 
Cover  closely  until  they  are  cold.  Seckel  pears,  peeled  and  stewed 
whole  according  to  this  recipe,  are  delicious. 

Stewed  peaches 

Peel  and  stone  three  dozen  peaches.  Put  them  over  the  fire 
with  enough  boiling  water  to  cover  them  and  put  into  the-  water 
six  peach-pits  (crushed)  and  two  slices  of  pineapple  cut  into 


STEWED    FRUIT,    PRESERVES,  ETCETERA      619 

Stew  slowly,  and  when  the  peaches  are  tender  transfer 
them  to  a  bowl  while  you  boil  the  liquor  hard  for  five  minutes,  then 
strain  it  and  add  three  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar.  Boil  to  a 
thick  syrup  and  pour  over  the  peaches.  Cover  while  cooking. 

Stewed  plums 

Wipe  each  plum  carefully  with  a  soft  damp  cloth,  and  prick 
it  with  a  fork  to  prevent  bursting.  Have  the  water  in  the  preserv- 
ing kettle  a  little  more  than  lukewarm  and  lay  the  fruit  in  it. 
Bring  to  a  gentle  boil,  cook  just  long  enough  for  the  plums  to 
become  tender,  but  not  long  enough  for  the  skins  to  crack.  They 
must  be  watched  carefully.  Remove  to  a  deep  dish,  add  a  cupful 
of  granulated  sugar  to  every  quart  of  liquor,  boil  to  a  syrup  and 
pour  over  the  plums. 

Apple  sauce 

Wash  two  dozen  firm,  juicy  apples  and  cut  them — without 
peeling — into  pieces.  Put  them  into  a  porcelain-lined  saucepan 
with  a  cupful  of  cold  water  and  bring  to  a  boil.  Cook  steadily, 
stirring  frequently,  until  the  fruit  is  soft  and  broken  into  bits. 
Remove  from  the  fire  and  run  through  a  colander  to  free  the 
sauce  from  all  bits  of  skin.  Sweeten  the  apples  to  taste,  and  stir 
over  the  fire  until  the  sugar  is  melted,  but  do  not  allow  the  mix- 
ture to  boil.  Add  a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice  and  set  aside  until 
cold.  Apple  sauce  made  in  this  way  is  better  in  flavor  and  color 
than  that  made  from  the  peeled  fruit.  The  best  part  of  the  apple 
is  that  lying  close  to  the  skin,  and  it  consequently  loses  much  of 
its  flavor  in  the  peeling. 

If  sealed  up  while  hot  this  will  keep  through  the  winter  and 
supply  fresh  apple  sauce  when  the  raw  fruit  is  scarce  and  ex- 
pensive, 

Stewed  evaporated  peaches 

Wash  the  sliced  peaches  carefully  and  soak  for  six  hours  in 
cold  water.  Turn  the  fruit  with  the  water  in  which  it  was  soaked 
into  a  saucepan  and  bring  to  a  gentle  boil.  Add  a  little  sugar  and 
stew  until  the  peaches  are  tender.  With  a  split  spoon  remove 


620  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

the  slices  of  fruit,  add  a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar  to  the  liquor, 
and  boil  quickly  to  thick  syrup.    Pour  this  over  the  peaches. 

Stewed  dried  pears 

Wash  and  soak  the  evaporated  fruit  as  directed  in  the  preced- 
ing recipe,  and  put  over  the  fire  in  the  water  in  which  it  was 
soaked.  The  slices  should  be  just  covered  by  the  water.  Stew 
until  very  tender,  then  remove  the  fruit  and  set  aside  while  you 
measure  the  juice.  To  a  half-pint  of  the  liquor  add  a  half-pint 
of  molasses  and  simmer  for  twenty-five  minutes.  Skim  the 
syrup,  return  the  pears  to  it,  add  a  pinch  of  powdered  ginger, 
boil  up  once,  and  remove  from  the  fire. 

Gingered  pears 

Peel  and  core  and  cut  in  very  thin  slices.  For  eight,  pounds  of 
sliced  fruit  put  into  a  kettle  the  juice  from  five  lemons,  one  cupful 
of  water,  seven  pounds  of  sugar  and  half  a  pound  of  ginger-root 
scraped  and  cut  into  thin  slices. 

Let  the  sugar  dissolve  before  adding  the  fruit.  Cut  the  peel 
of  a  lemon  into  long,  thin  slices  and  add  to  the  fruit.  Let  it  cook 
slowly  for  an  hour,  uncovered,  and  can  while  hot. 

Stewed  rhubarb 

Carefully  scrape — not  peel — the  stalks,  cut  into  inch-lengths, 
and  lay  them  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour.  Weigh  the  rhubarb, 
and  to  each  pound  of  the  fruit  allow  a  half-pound  of  granulated 
sugar.  Put  the  rhubarb,  still  wet,  into  an  agate-lined  saucepan, 
mix  the  sugar  with  it,  and  set  it  at  one  side  of  the  range  until  the 
sugar  melts.  Bring  slowly  to  a  boil,  and  stew  until  the  rhubarb 
is  very  tender.  Eat  cold,  accompanied  by  plain  cake,  or  thin 
bread  and  butter. 

You  may  seal  up  while  hot  in  glass  jars,  wrap  in  paper  to 
exclude  the  light,  and  keep  all  the  year  round. 


STEWED  FRUIT,  PRESERVES,  ETCETERA   621 

Apple  butter 

Boil  cider  down  to  two-thirds  of  its  original  quantity.  Into 
this  turn  as  many  peeled  and  sliced  apples  as  the  liquid  will  cover 
and  simmer,  stirring  often,  until  very  tender.  When  the  first 
supply  of  apples  is  tender,  strain  them  out,  add  more  and  cook  in 
the  same  fashion  until  all  the  cider  is  absorbed.  Take  from  the 
fire,  put  all  into  a  stone  crock  and  set  aside  for  twelve  hours, 
then  return  to  the  fire  and  boil  until  you  have  a  soft  brown  mass. 
Remove  and  pack  in  stone  jars. 

Peach  butter 

Peel  and  slice  enough  peaches  to  thicken  three  quarts  of  cider 
and  boil  steadily  until  the  fruit  is  reduced  to  a  pulp.  While 
cooking,  stir  frequently.  Remove  from  the  fire,  let  it  get  cold, 
return  to  the  fire  and  stew  for  an  hour  longer,  or  until  brown  and 
thick.  Pack  down  in  a  stone  crock. 

Plum  butter 

To  every  pound  of  plums  allow  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
sugar.  Wash  the  plums  and  put  them  into  a  preserving  kettle, 
with  the  moisture  still  clinging  to  them.  Cover,  bring  slowly  to 
a  boil,  and  cook  until  the  fruit  is  broken  to  pieces  and  is  very  soft. 
Rub  through  a  colander  to  remove  stones  and  skins;  return 
the  juice  and  pulp  to  the  fire,  add  the  sugar  and  boil  until  the 
mixture  is  very  thick.  Put  up  in  jars. 

Peach  jam 

After  you  have  peeled  and  stoned  the  fruit,  weigh  it,  and  to 
every  pound  of  fruit  allow  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar. 
Put  the  peaches  in  the  kettle  at  the  side  of  the  range  and  bring 
very  slowly  to  a  boil  in  the  juice  that  flows  from  them.  Stir 
often ;  at  the  end  of  three-quarters  of  an  hour  drain. of!  superflu- 
ous juice  and  add  the  sugar.  Boil  for  fifteen  minutes,  skimming 
often,  then  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  cook  for  a  minute  more,  and 


522  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

turn  into  glasses  or  small  jars.    The  surplus  of  liquor  will  make 
good  jelly. 

Berry  jam 

Pick  over  and  wash  the  berries,  and  allow  equal  weight  of  fruit 
and  sugar.  Put  the  berries  into  a  preserving  kettle,  mash  them 
as  they  heat,  and  when  considerable  juice  has  been  drawn  out, 
add  the  sugar  gradually.  Let  them  boil  up  all  over,  and  then 
either  skim  out  the  fruit,  or  turn  all  into  a  strainer.  Set  the  juice 
on  to  boil  again,  and  cook  until  it  is  thick  or  will  "jelly;"  put  the 
fruit  back  and  let  it  boil  once,  and  seal  up  in  small  jars. 

If  the  fruit  be  very  juicy,  drain  off  half  the  syrup,  strain  out  the 
seeds  and  cook  until  it  jellies.  Then,  put  up  in  glasses.  Do  this 
before  adding  the  fruit  for  the  last  boil.  A  still  better  plan  is  to 
dip  out  superfluous  juice  before  the  sugar  goes  in.  Add  pound 
for  pint  and  make  jelly  of  it. 

Orange  marmalade 

Slice  two  dozen  unpeeled  oranges,  and  remove  the  seeds.  Mix 
with  them  two  lemons.  These,  as  well  as  the  oranges,  must  be 
shredded  very  thin.  Measure  the  juice  and  add  enough  water 
to  make  three  quarts  of  liquid.  Put  all  into  a  stone  crock,  cover, 
and  set  in  a  cool  place  all  night.  Turn  into  a  preserving  kettle 
and  bring  slowly  to  the  boil.  Simmer  until  the  peel  is  very  ten- 
der. Now  stir  in  a  pound  of  sugar  for  every  pint  of  juice,  and 
boil  until  the  skin  is  clear  in  appearance.  Remove  from  the  fire, 
and  when  cool  turn  into  jelly  glasses. 

Grape  marmalade 

Stem  the  grapes  and  measure  them,  allowing  a  cupful  of  sugar 
for  each  half-pint  of  fruit.  Pulp  the  grapes,  keeping  the  skins 
for  further  use.  Extract  the  seeds  by  boiling  the  pulp  until  ten- 
der, then  rubbing  it  through  a  fine  colander.  Put  the  pulp,  juice 
and  skins  over  the  fire  in  a  preserving  kettle  and  add  the  sugar. 
Boil  until  very  thick,  pour  into  jars  and  seal. 


STEWED    FRUIT,    PRESERVES,  ETCETERA      623 

Peach  marmalade 

Peel,  stone  and  weigh  the  peaches,  and  allow  three-quarters  of 
a  pound  of  sugar  for  every  pound  of  fruit.  Put  the  fruit  into  a 
preserving  kettle  and  bring  gradually  to  a  boil.  Stew  until  ten- 
der and  broken;  drain  off  superfluous  liquid,  add  the  sugar  and 
boil  for  ten  minutes  longer.  Just  before  taking  from  the  fire  stir 
in  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice  for  every  pound  of  peaches 
used.  Remove  at  once  from  the  fire,  can  and  seal. 

Tutti-frutti 

Select  your  fruits — strawberries,  cherries,  raspberries,  black- 
berries, pineapple — and  shred  them  with  a  fork;  also,  bits  of 
orange  or  mandarine  from  which  the  white  skin  has  been  re- 
moved ;  put  into  wide-mouthed,  self-sealing  jars.  To  each  jar 
allow  four  tablespoonfuls  of  white  sugar  and  sprinkle  with  this 
each  layer  of  fruit.  When  the  jar  is  filled,  pour  in  slowly  white 
preserving  brandy,  letting  it  filter  in  slowly  until  every  crevice 
is  filled  and  there  is  room  for  not  a  drop  more.  Screw  down  the 
tops  and  set  the  jars  in  a  dark  cool  place.  The  fruit  should  sea- 
son some  weeks  before  it  is  used. 

Red  raspberry  jam 

Allow  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  a  pound  of  fruit. 
Put  the  berries  on  alone  and  boil  for  half  an  hour,  stirring  hard 
and  often.  Dip  out  the  superfluous  juice,  add  the  sugar  and  cook 
twenty  minutes  more.  Put  up  in  jars  or  glasses. 

* 

Lemon  marmalade 

Weigh  the  lemons,  and  to  every  pound  of  them  allow  a  pound 
and  one-quarter  of  sugar.  Grate  the  rind  from  half  of  the  lemons, 
and  peel  the  others.  Chop  the  fruit,  removing  the  seeds  as  you 
do  so.  Press  all  the  juice  that  you  can  upon  the  sugar,  add  a 
little  water  to  this,  and  put  it  over  the  fire.  Stir  until  the  sugar 
is  dissolved,  then  boil  for  five  minutes,  skimming  off  the  scum. 


624  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Stir  in  the  chopped  lemons  and  the  grated  rind,  and  boil   for 
half  an  hour.    Put  up  in  jelly  glasses. 

Preserved  peaches 

Peel,  stone  and  weigh  firm  white  peaches,  allowing  to  each 
pound  of  fruit  a  pound  of  white  sugar.  Arrange  fruit  and  sugar 
in  alternate  layers  in  a  broad  preserving  kettle,  and  set  the  kettle 
at  the  side  of  the  stove  where  the  contents  will  heat  slowly.  Stew 
for  about  half  an  hour  after  the  preserves  come  to  a  boil,  or  until 
the  peaches  are  tender  when  pierced  by  a  fork.  With  a  per- 
forated skimmer  take  the  peaches  from  the  syrup,  and  spread 
them  on  a  platter  while  you  boil  the  syrup  until  clear  and  thick, 
skimming  often.  Pack  the  fruit  in  jars,  fill  these  to  overflowing 
with  the  boiling  liquid,  and  seal  immediately.  Stand  the  jars  in 
a  pan  of  hot  water  while  filling  them. 

Preserved  citron  rind 

Peel  and  cut  the  rind  into  pieces  of  uniform  size,  rejecting  all 
the  seeds.  Lay  the  rind  in  salted  water  for  two  hours,  then  drain 
and  lay  in  cold  fresh  water  for  six  or  seven  hours,  changing  the 
water  three  times  during  that  period.  Drain,  put  the  citron  on  to 
boil  in  a  gallon  of  water,  to  which  you  have  added  two  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  alum.  Stew  until  tender,  drain,  and  lay  in  cold  water. 

Make  a  thick  syrup  of  sugar  and  water,  and  when  it  boils  cook 
the  rind  in  it  for  fifteen  minutes.  Remove  the  rind,  pack  in  jars, 
add  to  the  syrup  in  the  kettle  enough  lemon  juice  and  ginger  root 
to  flavor  it. 

When  very  thick,  fill  the  jars  with  the  boiling  syrup,  and  seal. 

Preserved  chestnuts 

Shell  and  blanch  three  dozen  large  chestnuts,  stew  slowly  until 
tender,  and  drain.  Make  a  syrup  of  a  cupful,  each,  of  sugar  and 
of  water,  and  boil  until  thick.  Drop  in  the  nuts,  bring  to  a  boil, 
add  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice  and  vanilla,  and  remove  from  the 
fire. 


STEWED    FRUIT,    PRESERVES,  ETCETERA      625 

Strawberries,  preserved  whole  (No.  1) 

Cap  the  berries,  preserving  all  the  juice  that  flows  from  them. 
Weigh  the  fruit  and  allow  to  every  pound  of  it  one  pound  of 
granulated  sugar.  Put  the  sugar  and  juice  into  the  preserving 
kettle  and  cook  slowly  until  the  sugar  is  entirely  dissolved,  then 
carefully  lay  in  the  berries.  Simmer  for  seven  minutes ;  turn  all 
into  shallow  porcelain-lined  pans  or  stoneware  dishes,  and  set 
in  the  hot  sun,  covering  each  dish  with  a  pane  of  glass,  or  with 
mosquito  netting.  Leave  in  the  hot  sunshine  every  day  until  the 
syrup  is  thick.  Put  into  preserve  jars  and  keep  in  a  dark,  cool, 
dry  place. 

Strawberries,  preserved  whole  (No.  2) 

Sort  the  berries,  reserving  those  of  uniform  size  and  perfect 
shape,  and  use  the  remainder  for  the  juice.  Mash  them  thor- 
oughly and  let  them  drip  through  a  flannel  bag.  Measure  the 
strained  juice  and  allow  one  pound  of  sugar  to  one  pound  of 
juice,  put  over  the  fire  in  a  preserving  kettle  and  let  them  boil 
twenty  minutes  or  until  the  syrup  begins  to  jelly. 

Weigh  the  reserved  whole  berries  and  allow  an  equal  amount 
of  sugar.  Add  both  to  the  hot  syrup  in  the  kettle  and  let 
them  simmer  carefully.  If  it  soon  becomes  firm,  the  mixture 
is  cooked  sufficiently.  The  berries  should  be  cooked  through,  yet 
not  long  enough  to  shrivel.  Fill  jelly  glasses  with  it  while  hot, 
and  seal. 

Ripe  tomato  preserves 

Peel  the  tomatoes,  and  to  every  pound  of  them  allow  a  pound  of 
granulated  sugar.  Cover  the  tomatoes  with  the  sugar  and  set 
aside  over  night.  In  the  morning  drain  off  the  syrup  and  boil  it, 
skimming  frequently.  Lay  in  the  tomatoes  and  simmer  for 
twenty  minutes,  then  remove  them  and  spread  on  platters  in  the 
sunshine  while  the  syrup  boils  until  thick.  Add  the  juice  of  three 
lemons  to  seven  pounds  of  sugar  just  before  taking  from  the 
fire.  Pack  the  tomatoes  in  jars,  and  fill  these  to  overflowing  with 
the  boiling  syrup.  Seal  immediately. 
40 


626  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Preserved  rhubarb 

Cut  the  rhubarb  into  inch-lengths,  wash  and  cook  according  to 
the  recipe  for  preserved  tomatoes,  adding  a  very  little  water  to  the 
fruit  and  sugar.  When  thick,  pour  into  jars  and  seal. 

Imitation  East  India  sweetmeats 

Pare  and  slice  two  dozen  Bartlett  pears  when  ripe,  but  not  mel- 
low. Cut  into  thin  strips,  about  two  inches  long,  and  half  an  inch 
wide.  Weigh  the  pears,  and  for  four  pounds  of  fruit  allow  three 
pounds  of  sugar,  three  lemons,  two  ounces  of  green  ginger,  and 
one-half  cupful  of  water. 

The  green  ginger  must  be  scraped  thoroughly  and  cut  into 
shreds.  If  this  can  not  be  procured,  use  the  candied  ginger  root, 
also  shredded. 

Cut  the  yellow  part  of  the  lemon  rind  into  short  shavings,  boil 
until  tender,  strain,  and  cover  with  the  lemon  juice. 

Put  the  water  into  the  preserving  kettle,  then  a  layer  of  pears, 
sugar,  lemon  and  ginger,  and  repeat  until  all  are  used.  Cover 
and  set  on  the  back  of  the  stove  until  the  sugar  melts,  and  a  syrup 
has  formed,  then  boil  gently  until  the  pears  are  tender  and  clear. 
When  tender,  take  up  with  a  skimmer,  pack  into  hot  jars  and  boil 
the  syrup  down  a  little,  then  fill  and  seal  as  usual. 

Watermelon  rind  preserves 

Remove  the  outside  rind  of  the  melon  and  scrape  out  the  soft 
inside.  Cut  the  rind  into  strips.  Line  a  kettle  with  vine-leaves, 
lay  in  the  rind  in  alternate  layers  with  more  grape-leaves,  sprinkle 
each  layer  lightly  with  powdered  alum,  pour  in  a  very  little  cold 
water,  cover  the  kettle  closely,  and  steam  the  contents  for  three 
hours.  Do  not  let  the  rind  boil  during  this  time.  Drain  the  rind, 
and  throw  into  cold  water.  Soak  for  four  hours,  draining  and 
adding  fresh,  cold  water  every  hour. 

Put  into  the  preserving  kettle  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  gran- 
ulated sugar  and  a  quart  of  water,  and  bring  to  a  boil,  skimming 
off  the  scum  as  it  rises  to  the  surface.  When  the  scum  no  longer 


STEWED    FRUIT,    PRESERVES,  ETCETERA      627 

rises  drain  the  rind  and  drop  it  into  the  boiling  syrup.  When 
the  rind  is  clear  and  very  tender,  but  not  broken,  remove,  and  lay 
upon  platters,  while  you  add  to  the  syrup  a  sliced  lemon  and  a 
little  sliced  ginger  root.  Boil  for  ten  minutes.  Pack  the  rind 
carefully  in  jars ;  fill  these  to  overflowing  with  the  boiling  syrup 
and  seal. 

Preserved  pears 

Peel  the  pears,  but  do  not  remove  the  stems.  Allow  a  pound 
of  sugar  to  each  pound  of  fruit,  and  put  in  alternate  layers  in  the 
preserving  kettle.  Set  at  the  side  of  the  range  where  the  contents 
will  heat  so  slowly  that  the  sugar  will  not  scorch.  Gently  stew 
the  pears  until  they  are  clear  and  tender,  then  lay  them  carefully 
on  platters  in  the  sun  while  you  boil  the  syrup  until  thick  and 
clear,  skimming  off  any  scum  that  arises.  Put  the  pears  into 
jars,  fill  these  with  the  boiling  syrup,  and  seal. 

Preserved  plums 

Wipe  the  plums  carefully,  and  prick  each  one  with  a  fork  to 
prevent  bursting.  Weigh  the  fruit,  and  to  every  pound  of  it  allow 
a  pound  of  sugar  and  a  pint  of  water.  Cook  the  sugar  and  water 
to  a  clear  syrup,  then  lay  in  the  plums  and  boil  very  gently  for 
twenty  minutes.  Remove  the  fruit  carefully,  not  to  break  it,  and 
lay  on  dishes  to  cool.  Boil  the  syrup  until  thick,  pack  the  plums 
in  glass  jars,  fill  to  overflowing  with  the  scalding  syrup,  and  seal 
immediately. 

Preserved  ginger  root 

Peel  the  green  ginger  roots  and  lay  in  cold  water  for  fifteen 
minutes,  then  boil,  changing  the  water  twice,  until  very  tender. 
Drain  the  ginger  and  weigh  it  before  laying  it  in  iced  water. 
Allow  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  sugar  to  each  pound  of  ginger. 
Wet  each  pound  of  sugar  with  a  cup  of  water  and  put  the  sugar 
and  water  into  the  preserving  kettle.  Boil  and  skim  until  the 
scum  ceases  to  rise,  then  remove  the  syrup  from  the  fire  and  set 
aside  until  cold.  Wipe  each  piece  of  ginger  and  lay  it  in  the  cold 
syrup.  Stand  for  twenty-four  hours,  drain  the  ginger  and  reheat 


628  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

the  syrup.  Take  from  the  fire  again,  and  when  blood-warm  put 
in  the  ginger.  Leave  it  for  two  days.  Then  take  out  the  ginger 
and  put  the  syrup  over  the  fire.  Boil  up  and  remove  and  add  the 
roots  at  once.  Now  set  aside  for  a  week  before  draining  the  gin- 
ger once  more,  boiling  the  syrup,  dropping  in  the  ginger  and  put- 
ting in  jars.  Do  not  use  for  a  month. 

Preserved  crabapples 

Select  firm,  sound  crabapples,  wash  them  and  examine  them  for 
any  sign  of  decay  or  spot.  Weigh  them,  and  to  each  pound  of  fruit 
allow  a  pound  of  sugar.  Arrange  fruit  and  sugar  in  a  preserving 
kettle  in  alternate  layers,  beginning  with  the  sugar.  Let  the  con- 
tents of  the  kettle  heat  slowly  at  the  side  of  the  stove.  When  the 
fruit  is  tender — it  should  not  require  over  an  hour  after  the  fruit 
^has  boiled  to  accomplish  this — take  out  the  apples  with  a  per- 
forated skimmer,  and  spread  them  on  flat  dishes,  laying  them  so 
that  they  will  not  touch  each  other.  Leave  the  syrup  over  the 
fire  in  a  place  where  it  will  boil  rapidly,  skimming  it  frequently. 
At  the  end  of  fifteen  minutes  it  should  be  thick  and  clear.  Pack 
the  fruit  into  wide-mouthed,  self-sealing  jars  and  pour  the  syrup 
over  the  apples.  Close  the  jars  while  the  contents  are  still  hot. 

Preserved  green  grapes 

Cut  each  grape  in  half,  remove  the  seeds  and  weigh  the  fruit. 
Allow  a  pound  of  granulated  sugar  to  every  pound  of  the  fruit. 
Put  all  into  a  preserving  kettle  and  bring  very  slowly  to  a  boil. 
Cook  until  thick,  then  pour,  boiling  hot,  into  jars  and  seal. 

Preserved  cherries 

Stone  and  stem  tart  cherries,  saving  all  the  juice.  To  every 
pound  of  fruit  allow  a  pound  of  sugar.  Put  the  sugar  and  juice 
in  the  preserving  kettle  over  the  fire,  and  when  the  sugar  is  en- 
tirely dissolved,  add  the  cherries.  Cook  until  the  syrup  is  very 
thick ;  put  into  glass  jars  and  seal. 


CRANDIED    PEACHES    GARNISHED    WITH    LEAVES 


MOULD    OF    JELLY    GARNISHED    WITH    ROSES 


STEWED    FRUIT,    PRESERVES,  ETCETERA      629 

Preserved  pineapple 

After  you  have  peeled  the  fruit  and  removed  the  "eyes,"  weigh 
it  and  allow  a  pound  of  sugar  to  every  pound  of  the  fruit.  Slice 
the  pineapple  and  put  it  and  the  sugar  in  the  kettle  in  alternate 
layers.  Pour  in  a  cup  of  water  to  prevent  burning,  and  bring 
slowly  to  a  boil.  Remove  the  pineapple,  spread  on  platters  to 
cool,  and  boil  the  syrup  for  fifteen  minutes  more.  Pack  the  fruit 
in  jars  and  fill  these  with  the  boiling  liquid.  Seal  immediately. 

Brandied  peaches 

Choose  firm,  white  fruit  for  this  purpose.  Peel  and  weigh 
the  peaches.  To  every  four  pounds  of  fruit  allow  three  of  sugar, 
a  pint  of  brandy  and  a  half-pint  of  water.  Put  the  sugar  and 
water  in  the  preserving  kettle,  and,  when  they  begin  to  boil,  drop 
in  the  peaches.  Let  these  boil  gently  for  twenty  minutes,  then 
remove  the  fruit  with  a  perforated  spoon  and  pack  in  glass  jars. 
Let  the  syrup  cook  ten  minutes  longer,  add  the  brandy,  and,  just 
as  the  boiling  point  is  reached,  remove  the  kettle  and  fill  the  jars 
with  the  scalding  liquid.  Seal  at  once. 

Candied  peaches 

Slice  them  thin  and  boil  until  clear  in  a  syrup  made  with  half 
their  weight  in  sugar ;  lay  them  on  dishes  in  the  sun  and  turn 
them  until  dry.  Pack  them  in  jars  with  powdered  sugar  over 
each  layer.  They  are  very  nice  if  made  with  pure  honey  instead 
of  sugar. 

Fox  grape  jelly 

Stem  and  wash  the  grapes,  and  put  them  into  the  preserving 
kettle,  with  the  water  still  clinging  to  them.  When  the  grapes 
are  broken  to  pieces  strain  through  a  jelly-bag,  measure  the 
juice,  and  to  each  pound  of  this  allow  a  pound  and  a  half  of 
sugar.  Bring  the  juice  to  a  boil,  cook  for  fifteen  minutes,  add 
the  sugar,  which  should  be  heated  dry  in  the  oven,  and  when 
this  is  dissolved  fill  glasses  with  the  jelly. 


63o  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Quince  jelly 

Wash  the  quinces,  but  do  not  peel  them.  Cut  in  quarters  and 
remove  the  cores.  Put  over  the  fire  in  porcelain  kettle;  add  a 
very  little  water;  cover  closely  and  stew  until  the  fruit  is  tender 
and  broken.  Strain  and  press  through  a  jelly-bag,  but  do  not 
squeeze  the  pulp.  The  juice  must  be  allowed  to  drip  through. 
Allow  a  pound  of  sugar  to  each  pint  of  the  juice.  Return  the  juice 
to  the  fire  and,  as  soon  as  it  boils,  pour  in  the  sugar.  Boil  all  hard 
until  the  juice  begins  to  "jelly,"  skimming  off  the  scum  as  it 
rises  to  the  surface.  Test  the  juice  occasionally  by  pouring  a 
spoonful  upon  a  chilled  plate.  As  soon  as  this  quantity  begins 
to  jelly  about  the  edge  the  kettle  may  be  removed  from  the  fire. 
Put  at  once  into  jelly-glasses. 

Grape  jelly 

Put  your  grapes  over  the  fire  in  a  large  double  boiler,  without 
water.  Cover  closely  and  cook  until  the  fruit  is  broken  to  pieces. 
Rub  through  a  colander,  then  squeeze  through  a  flannel  bag. 
Measure  the  juice,  and  to  each  pint  allow  a  pound  of  sugar.  Put 
the  sugar  in  pans  and  set  in  the  oven  to  heat,  but  not  to  melt. 
Stir  it  from  time  to  time  to  prevent  scorching.  Return  the  juice 
to  the  fire  in  a  porcelain-lined  kettle,  and  bring  to  a  boil.  Cook 
for  twenty  minutes,  add  the  heated  sugar,  boil  up  just  once  and 
pour  the  jelly  into' glasses  set  in  a  pan  of  hot  water. 

Currant  jelly 

Wash  the  fruit,  put  it  over  the  fire  in  an  agate-lined  kettle,  and 
let  it  heat  very,  very  slowly.  When  the  fruit  is  hot  and  broken, 
remove  from  the  fire  and  squeeze  it  through  a  jelly-bag.  Meas- 
ure the  juice  and  allow  a  pound  of  granulated  sugar  to  each  pint 
of  the  liquid.  '  Return  the  juice  to  the  fire  and  set  the  sugar  in 
shallow  pans  in  the  oven  to  heat.  When  the  juice  has  boiled 
twenty  minutes  skim  it ;  add  the  heated  sugar,  stir  until  this  has 
dissolved,  bring  to  the  boiling  point,  and  take  from  the  fire. 
Fill  your  jelly-glasses  while  they  stand  in  a  pan  of  hot  water. 


STEWED    FRUIT,    PRESERVES,  ETCETERA      631 

Peach  jelly 

Peel,  stone  and  quarter  a  peck  of  peaches  and  put  over  the 
fire  with  a  cupful  of  water.  A  dozen  cracked  peach  pits  added 
to  the  fruit  will  improve  the  flavor  of  the  jelly.  Cook  steadily 
until  the  peaches  are  broken  and  soft ;  strain  and  return  the 
juice  to  the  fire,  with  the  strained  juice  of  a  lemon  for  every 
three  pounds  of  fruit.  Let  it  boil  for  twenty  minutes,  and  add  a 
pound  of  heated  sugar  for  every  pint  of  the  juice.  When  it  boils 
up  once  more,  remove  from  the  fire  and  fill  the  glasses. 

Crabapple  jelly 

Cut  juicy  crabapples  into  quarters  and  put  over  the  fire  in  a  pre- 
serving kettle.  Cover ;  bring  slowly  to  a  boil  and  stew  for  sev- 
eral hours,  or  until  broken  all  to  pieces.  Strain  and  press  without 
squeezing,  through  a  jelly-bag,  and  proceed  as  with  peach  jelly. 
The  juice  procured  by  squeezing  what  is  left  in  the  bag  will  make 
a  good  second-best  jelly,  well  flavored  but  not  clear. 


Cranberry  jelly 

Wash  a  quart  of  cranberries,  drain  them  and  put  them  into  a 
double  boiler  with  the  moisture  still  clinging  to  them.  Cover 
and  cook  until  broken  to  pieces.  Turn  the  fruit  into  a  jelly-bag 
and  squeeze  hard  to  extract  all  the  juice.  Measure  this,  and  to  a 
quart  of  it  add  four  cups  of  granulated  sugar.  Return  to  the 
fire,  boil  up  once,  and  turn  into  a  mold  wet  with  cold  water.  It 
should  form  into  a  firm  jelly. 

Rhubarb  jelly 

Cut  the  rhubarb  into  inch  lengths,  and  to  two  quarts  of  this 
add  a  scant  cup  of  water.  Put  into  a  porcelain-lined  kettle,  cover 
closely  and  simmer  until  very  soft.  Put  a  small  quantity  at  a 
time  into  a  jelly-bag  and  squeeze  out  all  the  juice.  Measure  this 
and  return  to  the  kettle  and  fire.  Allow  a  pound  of  granulated 
sugar  for  each  pint  of  juice.  Heat  the  sugar  in  pans  in  the 


632  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

oven,  taking  care  that  it  does  not  scorch  or  melt.  Boil  the  juice 
for  ten  minutes,  adding,  as  it  cooks,  a  little  lemon  juice.  At  the 
end  of  twenty  minutes  add  the  hot  sugar  slowly,  that  it  may  not 
lump,  and  as  soon  as  it  is  dissolved  pour  the  jelly  into  glasses 
that  have  been  dipped  in  hot  water.  When  firm  and  cool,  cover, 
first  with  tissue  paper  that  has  been  dipped  in  brandy,  then  with 
tin  covers,  or  with  stiff  paper  securely  fastened  down. 

Apple  jelly 

Quarter  without  peeling  or  coring  them,  tart,  juicy  apples. 
Drop  the  apples,  as  you  cut  them,  into  cold  water.  When  all 
are  done  put  the  fruit,  with  the  moisture  upon  it,  in  the  preserv- 
ing kettle,  and  simmer  very  gently  until  the  juice  flows  freely. 
Boil  slowly  until  the  apples  are  tender  and  broken.  Turn,  a 
little  at  a  time,  into  a  flannel  jelly-bag,  and  allow  the  juice  to  drip 
through.  If  the  bag  is  squeezed  the  jelly  will  be  cloudy.  Measure 
the  juice  and  to  each  pint  of  it  allow  a  pound  of  granulated  sugar. 
Put  the  sugar  in  pans  in  the  oven  to  heat.  Return  the  juice  to 
the  fire  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes ;  skim  it,  pour  into  it  the 
sugar  and  stir  until  this  is  dissolved,  bring  again  to  the  boil,  and 
remove  the  kettle  from  the  fire.  Set  jelly  glasses  on  a  wet  cloth 
to  prevent  their  cracking,  and  fill  at  once. 


PICKLES 

IN  the  warm  days  when  the  thought  of  "sweets"  brings  no 
desire,  but  rather  an  aversion  for  them,  it  requires  courage  to  put 
up  preserves,  and  a  certain  amount  of  faith  is  necessary  to  make 
the  housewife  feel  that  she  will  ever  want  to  eat  the  rich  and 
cloying  dainties.  But  with  pickles  it  is  another  story.  During 
the  dog-days  the  thought  of  the  biting  acid  is  pleasing,  and  the 
recollection  of  pungent  spices  tempts  the  appetite.  So  the  house- 
wife enters  into  the  preparation  of  her  pickles  with  zest  that 
makes  the  task  a  pleasure. 

To  be  on  the  safe  side  one  should,  in  making  pickles,  always 
use  a  porcelain  or  agate-lined  preserving  kettle,  as  the  action  of 
sharp  acid  upon  a  copper  vessel  may,  unless  great  care  be  prac- 
ticed, produce  a  corroding  poison. 

f> 

Wax  for  sealing  jars  and  bottles 

Make  a  mixture  of  one-third  resin  and  two-thirds  beeswax. 
Heat  together,  mix  well  and  put  away  until  needed.  When  it  is 
to  be  used  lay  a  lump  of  it  on  top  of  the  jar  or  bottle  to  be  sealed, 
and  press  it  down  with  a  hojt  shovel.  This  will  melt  it,  and  thus 
seal  the  cork. 

Cucumber  pickles 

Choose  only  small  cucumbers,  as  they  make  pretty,  as  well  as 
tender,  pickles.  Lay  one  hundred  and  fifty  small  cucumbers  in 
cold  water  for  an  hour.  Remove  and  drain,  then  turn  into  a 
perfectly  clean  stone  crock,  and  pour  over  them  cold  brine,  so 
strong  that  an  egg  will  float  on  the  surface.  After  standing  in 
this  for  three  days  the  pickles  may  be  removed,  drained  and  dried 
on  a  clean  towel.  Wash  the  stone  crock  and  return  the  cucum- 

633 


634  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

bers  to  it.  Cover  with  pure  water  until  the  next  day.  Have 
ready  on  the  range  hot  vinegar  in  which  you  have  boiled  two 
minced  onions,  twenty  cloves,  an  ounce,  each,  of  mustard  and 
celery  seed  and  a  few  blades  of  mace.  Fill  the  jar  with  this 
boiling  mixture,  and  add  a  cupful  of  sugar,  stirring  the  cucum- 
bers up  from  the  bottom.  Cover  tightly.  In  a  week  scald  the 
vinegar  again,  and  return  to  the  jar.  Let  the  pickles  stand  for 
six  weeks  before  using.  Six  months  is  even  better. 

Sliced  cucumber  pickles 

Slice  three  dozen  large  yellow  cucumbers  and  boil  them  for 
half  an  hour  in  enough  vinegar  to  cover  them.  Meanwhile,  into 
a  gallon  of  cold  vinegar  stir  a  tablespoonful,  each,  of  onion  juice, 
ground  horseradish,  cinnamon,  black  pepper,  ginger,  a  half- 
teaspoonful  of  paprika,  a  tablespoonful  of  celery  seed  and  a  half- 
pound  of  sugar.  Drain  the  boiled  cucumbers,  turn  them  into 
the  spiced  vinegar,  put  all  into  a  kettle  and  simmer  for  two  hours 
before  putting  into  glass  jars. 

Pickled  onions 

Select  the  small  white  "button  onions"  for  pickling.  Lay 
them  in  a  strong  brine  for  four  or  five  days.  Drain  and  put  into 
a  fresh  supply  of  brine  boiling  hot.  Cook  five  minutes.  Drain 
and  lay  in  clear,  cold  water  for  a  day.  Drain  once  more,  turn 
the  onions  into  pint  jars  and  pour  scalding  spiced  vinegar  upon 
them.  Allow  them  to  become  tender  before  using. 

Pickled  butternuts 

These  should  be  picked  when  tender  enough  to  be  pierced  with 
a  needle.  Cover  with  very  strong  brine  and  keep  the  nuts  in 
this  for  three  days;  drain  and  recover  with  brine.  At  the  end 
of  three  days  drain  again  and  leave  in  fresh  cold  water  for  six 
hours.  Bring  to  a  boil  a  gallon  of  vinegar  in  which  you  have 
stirred  a  cupful  of  sugar,  two  tablespoonfuls,  each,  of  whole 
cloves  and  peppercorns,  a  tablespoonful  of  allspice  and  eight 


PICKLES  635 

blades  of  mace.  Boil  for  ten  minutes,  pack  the  nuts  in  a  crock 
and  pour  the  scalding  vinegar  over  them.  At  the  end  of  three 
days  drain  off  the  vinegar,  bring  it  to  the  boil,  and  pour  it  again 
over  the  nuts.  Cover  and  set  aside  for  six  weeks  before  eating. 

Peter  Piper's  pickled  peppers 

Cut  a  slit  in  the  sides  of  large  green  peppers  and  extract  the 
seeds.  Lay  in  strong  brine  for  three  days  and  in  cold  water  for 
one.  Make  a  stuffing  of  eight  tablespoonfuls  of  chopped  cab- 
bage, four  tablespoonfuls  of  English  mustard  seed,  a  teaspoonful 
of  celery  seed,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  chopped  onion,  a  teaspoonful, 
each,  of  grated  horseradish,  whole  peppercorns  and  ground  mace, 
a  half-teaspoonful  of  ground  mustard  and  a  heaping  tablespoon- 
ful  of  brown  sugar.  Moisten  to  a  paste  with  salad  oil  and  stuff 
the  peppers  with  it,  closing  the  slit  afterwards,  and  wrapping 
with  soft  string.  Pack  in  a  stone  crock  and  fill  the  crock  with 
scalding  vinegar  to  which  has  been  added  a  half-cup  of  brown 
sugar.  Scald  the  vinegar  a  week  later  and  return  to  the  crock. 
Cover  and  let  it  stand  six  months  before  using. 

Stuffed  mangoes  or  peppers 

Cut  the  tops  from  green  peppers,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  re- 
move the  seeds.  Fill  the  peppers  with  salt  and  cover  with  cold 
water.  Let  them  stand  thus  for  two  days,  then  drain ;  leave  in  cold 
water  for  a  day  and  fill  with  a  stuffing  made  of  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  minced  cabbage,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  horseradish,  grated,  a 
teaspoonful  of  minced  onion,  a  half-teaspoonful,  each,  of  pow- 
dered mace,  nutmeg  and  ginger,  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  celery 
seed,  peppercorns  and  ground  mustard,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  salad  oil.  When  the  peppers  are  stuffed 
tie  on  the  tops  with  soft  twine,  pack  in  a  crock  and  fill  the  crock 
with  boiling  vinegar.  Repeat  the  scalding  a  week  later.  Cover, 
and  let  them  stand  for  several  months  before  using. 


636  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Pickled  pepper  hash 

Wash  and  dry  five  large  green  peppers  and  one  red  one,  cut 
them  open  and  remove  all  the  seed,  then  chop  the  shells  quite 
fine.  Next,  take  a  good-sized  head  of  cabbage,  remove  all  im- 
perfect leaves,  cut  it  up  and  chop  fine.  Place  both  cabbage  and 
peppers  in  a  bowl  and  mix  well  together ;  add  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  brown  mustard  seed,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  one  of  sugar 
and  enough  good  cider  vinegar  to  cover  the  whole;  stir  all  well 
together  and  put  into  pickle  bottles.  This  will  be  ready  for  use 
in  two  days,  or  it  will  keep  for  winter  use. 

Pickled  cherries 

Bring  to  the  boiling  point  a  pint  and  a  half  of  vinegar,  into 
which  you  have  stirred  half  a  cupful  of  brown  sugar,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  whole  cloves  and  a  dozen  blades  of  mace.  Boil  all 
together  for  five  minutes,  and  set  aside  to  cool. 

Have  ready  three  quarts  of  firm,  tart  cherries  (leaving  the 
stones  in  them)  and  put  them  into  glass  jars.  Strain  the  spices 
from  the  cold  vinegar,  and  pour  the  vinegar  over  the  fruit,  filling 
the  jars  to  the  brim.  Seal  at  once. 

Martinia  pickles 

Gather  when  a  needle  will  pierce  the  vegetables ;  wash  and 
pack  down  in  a  stone  jar,  then  cover  with  cold  brine  strong 
enough  to  bear  up  an  egg.  Let  the  pickles  stand  in  this  for  three 
days,  stirring  them  up  each  day  from  the  bottom.  Drain  and 
pour  cold  water  over  them,  letting  them  stand  for  twenty-four 
hours  in  it.  Drain  this  off,  and  pack  the  pickles  in  quart  jars. 
Have  ready  scalding  vinegar  in  which  you  have  boiled  for  ten 
minutes  a  dozen  whole  cloves  and  peppercorns,  four  blades  of 
mace  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  mustard  seed.  Fill  the  jars  with 
the  boiling  vinegar,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  sugar  for  each  quart 
of  vinegar,  and  screw  on  the  covers.  Let  the  pickles  stand  for 
six  weeks  before  using. 


PICKLES  637 

Pickled  string  beans 

Remove  the  strings  and  boil  the  beans  until  tender  in  slightly 
salted  boiling  water ;  put  into  glass  jars,  pour  heated  spiced  vine- 
gar over  them  and  seal  up  tightly,  as  you  would  canned  beans. 

Green  tomato  pickle 

Slice  a  gallon  of  unpeeled  green  tomatoes  and  six  large  onions 
and  mix  them  together.  Stir  into  these  a  quart  of  vinegar,  one 
cupful  of  brown  sugar,  a  tablespoonful,  each,  of  salt,  pepper  and 
mustard  seed,  and  a  half-tablespoonful,  each,  of  ground  allspice 
and  cloves.  Stew  all  until  the  tomatoes  are  very  tender,  then 
put  into  glass  jars  and  seal. 

India  relish  (No.  1) 

One  pint  of  young  string  beans,  cut  into  inch  lengths ;  one  pint 
of  very  small  cucumbers  (an  inch  long),  each  cut  into  three 
pieces ;  three  sliced  cucumbers,  one  pint  of  button  onions 
(peeled),  four  long  red  peppers,  cut  small;  one  cup  of  green 
nasturtium  seed,  one  medium-sized  cauliflower,  cut  into  small 
clusters. 

Put  all  these  ingredients  into  a  stone  crock  in  layers  thickly 
strewn  with  salt,  the  uppermost  layer  being  of  salt.  Cover  with 
cold  water,  put  a  plate  on  top,  weighted  with  a  stone  to  keep  the 
vegetables  from  floating,  and  leave  in  the  cellar  for  three  days. 

Drain  off  the  brine,  rinse  with  cold  water  by  putting  the  veg- 
etables in  a  colander  and  holding  it  under  the  faucet;  return  to 
the  crock,  cover  with  cold  fresh  water  and  leave  for  twenty-four 
hours. 

Have  ready  three  quarts  of  vinegar,  one  teaspoonful  of  Hun- 
garian sweet  pepper  (paprika),  one  teaspoonful  of  cloves,  one 
teaspoonful  of  celery  seed,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  curry  powder, 
one  teaspoonful  of  ground  mustard,  one  teaspoonful  of  mace, 
one  teaspoonful  of  grated  horseradish,  one  and  a  half  cupfuls  of 
brown  sugar.  Let  this  mixture  come  to  a  boil,  put  in  the  drained 
vegetables,  and  simmer  ten  minutes  after  it  begins  to  boil.  Turn 


638  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

into  a  stone  crock;  cover  closely  and  let  all  stand   forty-eight 
hours. 

Drain  off  the  vinegar  and  bring  it  to  a  boil;  pour  over  the 
pickles  and  leave  them  for  a  day  longer.  Fill  small  glass  jars 
with  the  relish,  cork  and  seal.  Keep  in  a  dark  closet.  It  will 
not  be  ready  for  use  under  three  weeks.  Six  weeks  are  better. 

India  relish  (No.  2) 

Two  pounds  of  citron  melon  or  watermelon  rind,  two  heads  of 
cabbage,  white  and  firm;  six  white  onions,  one  large  cupful  of 
sugar,  one  heaping  teaspoonful,  each,  of  ground  cinnamon,  mace, 
paprika  (Hungarian  sweet  pepper),  mustard  and  powdered  alum, 
one  tablespoonful  of  curry  powder,  one  quart  of  vinegar,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  celery  seed,  one  tablespoonful  of  salt. 

Prepare  the  melon  by  cutting  off  the  green  rind  and  scraping 
away  the  softer  inner  coating,  leaving  less  than  an  inch,  firm  and 
white,  to  be  treated.  Cut  into  thin  strips,  put  into  an  agate-iron 
or  porcelain-lined  kettle,  cover  with  cold  water  and  sprinkle  a 
tablespoonful  of  powdered  alum  over  it.  Cover  closely  and 
cook  gently — never  fast — for  three  hours.  Drain  well  and  cover 
with  ice-water.  Change  the  water  twice  in  four  hours,  and  then 
wipe  the  melon  dry. 

Cut  the  cabbage  into  quarters,  cook  in  boiling  water  slightly 
salted  for  fifteen  minutes.  Let  it  get  perfectly  cold.  Parboil 
the  onions  and  allow  them  also  to  get  cold  and  stiff. 

Now  chop  cabbage,  melons  and  onions  separately,  and  very 
fine.  Mix  all  together  in  a  large  crock,  and  pour  over  them  the 
scalding  hot  vinegar,  in  which  have  been  boiled  for  one  minute 
the  spices,  sugar  and  celery  seed. 

Leave  the  crock  covered  twenty-four  hours,  strain  off  the 
vinegar,  bring  it  to  a  boil  and  pour  again  over  the  mixture  in  the 
crock.  Repeat  this  for  three  days  in  succession,  after  which  pack 
in  small  jars,  cover  closely  and  set  away  to  ripen.  It  will  be 
ready  for  use  in  six  weeks,  but  improves  by  keeping.  The  re- 
sult will  repay  the  housewife  for  the  trouble  of  making. 


PICKLES 

Pickled  watermelon  rind 

Allow  three  pounds  of  brown  sugar  to  each  quart  of  vinegar. 
Bruise  four  ounces  of  stick  cinnamon  and  two  ounces  of  cloves ; 
tie  in  a  mustard  bag  and  boil  five  minutes  with  the  vinegar.  Pour 
this  over  the  pared  and  sliced  rind  and  let  it  remain  twenty-four 
hours.  Drain  off  the  liquid,  reheat  and  pour  over  the  rind  again, 
and  let  it  stand  for  twenty-four  hours.  Then  boil  all  together  for 
a  short  time,  and  put  into  jars. 

Pickled  nutmeg  melons 

Young  musk  or  nutmeg  melons,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  Eng- 
lish mustard   seed   mixed   with  two   tablespoonfuls  of   scraped 
horseradish,  one  teaspoonful  of  ground  mace  and  nutmeg,  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  chopped  garlic,  a  little  ginger,  one  dozen  whole 
pepper  corns ;  one-half  tablespoonful  of  ground  mustard  to  a  pint 
of  the  mixture — allowing  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar  to  the  same 
amount ;  one  tablespoonful  best  salad  oil  to  each  pint  of  the  mix- 
ture ;  one  teaspoonful  of  celery  seed.     Cut  a  slit  in  the  side  of 
the  melon  and  extract  the  seeds.     If  you  can  not  get  them  out  in 
this  way  cut  a  slender  slit  out,  saving  it  to  replace.     Lay  the 
mangoes  in  strong  brine  for  three  days.     Drain  off  the  brine  and 
freshen  in  pure  water  for  twenty-four  hours.     "Green"  as  you 
would  cucumbers — that  is,  have  a  kettle  lined  with  green  vine 
leaves,  and  lay  the  mangoes  evenly  within  it,  scattering  pow- 
dered alum  over  the  layers.     A  piece  of  alum  as  large   as   a 
pigeon's  egg  will  be  enough  for  a  two-gallon  kettleful.     Fill  with 
cold  water ;  cover  with  vine  leaves,  three  deep ;  put  a  close  lid  or 
inverted  pan  over  all,  and  steam  over  a  slow  fire  five  or  six  hours, 
not  allowing  the  water  to  boil.     When  the  mangoes  are  a  fine 
green  remove  the  leaves  and  lay  the  melons  in  cold  water  until 
cold  and  firm.     Fill  with  the  stuffing;  sew  up  the  slit,  or  tie  with 
pack  thread.     Pack  in  a  deep  stone  jar  and  pour  scalding  vine- 
gar over  them.     Repeat  this  process  three  times  more  at  inter- 
vals of  two  days ;  then  cover  and  set  away  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 
They  will  not  be  "ripe"  under  four  months,  but  are  very  fine 
when  they  are.     They  will  keep  several  years. 


640  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Pickled  gherkins 

Put  the  "prickly  cucumbers"  by  the  layer  in  a  stone  crock, 
strewing  each  layer  thickly  with  salt;  then  pour  in  enough  cold 
water  to  cover  them.  Lay  a  heavy  plate  on  the  top  of  all  to 
keep  them  from  floating.  Leave  the  pickles  in  brine  for  a  fort- 
night, frequently  stirring  them  up  from  the  bottom.  Pick  all 
over,  rejecting  such  as  are  soft,  and  lay  the  firm  ones  in  a  kettle 
lined  with  grape  leaves,  sprinkling  a  generous  pinch  of  alum  over 
each  layer  of  gherkins.  Cover  with  cold  water  and  three  thick- 
nesses of  grape  leaves  over  the  surface  of  the  water;  put  on  a 
closely-fitting  top  and  steam  over  a  low  fire  for  half  a  day.  Drain 
the  pickles  and  throw  into  cold  water.  Have  ready  a  gallon  of 
vinegar  to  which  have  been  added  eighteen  allspice,  three  dozen 
cloves,  three  dozen  black  peppercorns,  a  dozen  blades  of  mace, 
and  a  cup  of  sugar.  Boil  this  vinegar  for  five  minutes,  then 
pack  the  cold  gherkins  in  jars  and  fill  the  jars  with  the  scalding 
vinegar. 

Ripe  cucumber  pickle 

Select  rather  small  ripe  cucumbers  of  uniform  size.  Steam 
them  for  three  hours  in  a  closely-covered  preserving  kettle,  lin- 
ing this  and  covering  the  cucumbers  with  vine  leaves  if  you  can 
procure  these.  To  a  kettleful  of  material  allow  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  powdered  alum,  scattering  it  over  each  layer  of  the  cucumbers. 
Of  water  there  should  be  only  just  enough  to  cover  the  veg- 
etables. When  the  period  of  steaming  is  at  an  end  drain  off 
the  water  and  throw  the  cucumbers  into  very  cold  water.  Change 
this  four  times  in  four  hours. 

Weigh  the  cucumbers  and  allow  for  every  pound  of  these  a 
pound  of  sugar  and  a  half-cupful  of  cold  water.  Heat  these  two 
together  gradually,  and  when  they  are  hot  lay  in  the  cucumbers. 
Let  them  simmer  very  slowly  until  tender;  take  them  out  and 
spread  upon  dishes  while  you  add  to  the  syrup  on  the  stove  a 
pint  of  vinegar  for  every  pound  of  the  rind,  and  to  every  eight 
pounds  of  it  a  tablespoonful,  each,  of  ground  cloves,  cinnamon 
and  mace. 


PICKLES  641 

Chow-chow 

Prepare  a  mixture  of  string-  beans,  tiny  cucumbers,  small 
onions  (peeled),  a  cauliflower  (cut  into  clusters)  and  green  to- 
matoes (sliced).  Add  to  these  four  small,  long,  red  peppers, 
and  arrange  the  vegetables  in  a  wide-mouthed  jar,  alternating 
each  layer  of  these  with  one  of  salt.  When  all  are  in  cover  with 
cold  water,  laying1  a  board  with  a  weight  upon  it  on  top  of  the 
contents  of  the  jar  to  keep  them  from  floating.  Leave  them 
thus  for  three  days,  drain  the  pickles,  wash  them  with  fresh 
water  and  let  them  lie  in  unsalted  water  for  a  day.  Make  a 
pickle  vinegar  by  cooking  together  a  gallon  of  vinegar,  a  tea- 
spoonful,  each,  of  celery  seed,  white  mustard  seed,  whole  cloves, 
whole  mace  and  whole  black  peppers,  and  one  of  ground  horse- 
radish, two  teaspoonfuls  of  tumeric,  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
ground  mustard,  and  a  cupful  and  a  half  of  brown  sugar.  Put 
over  the  fire  in  a  preserving  kettle,  and,  when  it  reaches  a  boil, 
drop  in  the  pickles.  Be  careful  that  there  are  no  decayed  ones 
among  them.  After  they  have  simmered  five  minutes  take  them 
out  with  a  skimmer  and  put  into  a  stone  jar.  Pour  the  vinegar 
over  them,  and  let  them  stand  for  two  days.  Drain  the  vinegar 
off;  put  it  back  on  the  fire,  add  to  it  a  tablespoonful  of  curry 
powder,  and,  when  the  vinegar  is  boiling,  pour  it  over  the  pickles 
in  the  crock.  When  cold,  put  the  pickles  into  small  jars  and 

seal.     Ready  for  use  in  two  or  three  weeks. 

• 

Red  cabbage  pickle 

Quarter  the  cabbage  and  lay  in  a  jar.  Cover  with  salt  and  let 
it  stand  for  twenty-four  hours.  Drain  off  the  brine;  wipe  dry 
and  cover  with  cold  water  for  twelve  hours.  Bring  two  quarts 
of  vinegar  to  the  boil,  spicing  it,  as  you  do  so,  with  equal  quan- 
tities of  whole  cloves,  white  peppers  and  blades  of  mace  broken 
into  tiny  bits,  a  half  cupful  of  sugar  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
celery  seed.  Pack  the  cabbage  into  a  crock,  and,  after  the  vine- 
gar and  spices  have  boiled  together  for  ten  minutes,  cover  the 
cabbage  with  the  scalding  vineear.  Cover,  and  keep  in  a  cool 
place.  It  must  not  be  used  under  six  weeks  or  two  months. 
41 


642  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 


SWEET   PICKLES 

In  putting  up  sweet  pickles  bear  in  mind  that  the  fruit  of 
which  they  are  made  must  be  very  thoroughly  cooked.  If  this 
precaution  is  not  taken  fermentation  may  possibly  set  in  and 
the  contents  of  your  jars  will  be  spoiled.  Under  the  head  of 
sweet  pickles  may  be  included  such  relishes  as  spiced  grapes  and 
currants,  as  well  as  the  larger  fruits. 

Pickled  peaches 

Choose  firm,  freestone  peaches  for  pickling.  Morris  whites 
are  good  for  this  purpose.  Peel  the  peaches,  dropping  them 
into  cold  water  as  you  do  so,  to  preserve  the  color.  Drain  and 
weigh  the  fruit,  allowing  to  every  three  pounds  of  it  a  pound  and 
a  half  of  sugar  (granulated)  and  a  cupful  of  vinegar.  Stick  a 
whole  clove  into  each  peach  and  put  the  fruit  and  sugar  in  lay- 
ers in  a  porcelain-lined  preserving  kettle.  Put  the  vinegar  on 
to  boil  in  a  separate  saucepan  with  a  cheese-cloth  bag  containing 
a  tablespoonful,  each,  of  mace,  cinnamon  and  cloves.  Boil  this 
for  five  minutes,  then  remove  the  spice  bag.  Cook  the  sugar 
and  peaches  together  for  five  minutes  more,  and  add  the  vinegar. 
Boil  until  the  fruit  looks  clear,  and  is  tender,  but  not  broken. 
Remove  the  fruit  carefully  with  a  skimmer  and  spread  upon 
platters  to  cool  while  you  boil  the  syrup  for  fifteen  minutes 
longer,  or  until  it  is  very  thick.  Pack  the  peaches  in  jars  set  in 
a  pan  of  hot  water ;  fill  with  boiling  syrup,  and  seal. 

TJnpeeled  pickled  peaches 

Rub  the  down  from  peaches  of  uniform  size,  using  a  coarse 
towel  to  do  this.  Prick  each  peach  with  a  fork,  weigh  them, 
and  put  them  into  a  preserving  kettle  with  barely  enough  water 
to  cover  them.  When  the  water  is  just  short  of  the  boil  remove 
the  peaches,  and  to  the  water  in  the  kettle  add  sugar  in  the  pro- 
portion of  three  pounds  to  every  seven  pounds  of  the  fruit.  Boil 
for  fifteen  minutes,  skimming  two  or  three  times.  For  every  seven 


PICKLES  643 

pounds  of  the  fruit  put  in  three  pints  of  vinegar,  one  tablespoonful, 
each,  of  ground  cinnamon,  mace  and  allspice,  and  one  teaspoon- 
ful,  each,  of  cloves  and  celery  seed,  all  well  mixed  and  tied 
up  in  tiny  bags  made  of  thin  muslin.  Let  all  cook  together 
for  ten  minutes  after  they  have  come  to  a  boil ;  put  in  the  fruit 
an4  let  it  stew  slowly  until  tender.  Remove  it  from  the  syrup 
with  a  skimmer,  spread  it  on  plates  to  cool,  and  let  the  syrup 
boil  until  thick.  Put  the  peaches  into  glass  jars,  pour  in  the 
syrup  and  seal. 

Sweet  cucumber  pickles 

Lay  small  cucumbers  in  brine  for  three  days,  then  drain  and 
lay  in  fresh  water  for  a  day.  Line  a  kettle  with  grape  leaves 
and  arrange  the  cucumbers  in  it  in -layers,  scattering  a  pinch  of 
alum  over  each  layer.  Cover  with  cold  water  and  three  layers  of 
leaves;  fit  a  lid  on  the  kettle  and  steam  the  pickles  (without  let- 
ting them  boil)  over  a  slow  fire  for  six  hours.  Drain  the  cu- 
cumbers, throw  into  cold  water,  and  when  they  are  firm  pack  in 
jars.  Fill  the  jars  with  boiling  vinegar  that  has  been  seasoned 
with  a  cupful  of  sugar  to  each  quart,  eight  whole  cloves,  eight 
black  peppers,  six  allspice  and  six  blades  of  mace.  Seal  the  jars 
at  once.  They  will  be  fit  for  use  in  three  months. 

Pickled  plums 

Wipe  firm  plums  with  a  damp  cloth  and  prick  each  in  several 
places  to  prevent  bursting.  Allow  the  same  quantity  of  sugar, 
vinegar  and  spices  to  each  pound  of  fruit  as  in  recipe  for  pickled 
peaches.  Put  each  kind  of  spice  in  a  cheese-cloth  bag  by  itself 
and  the  sugar,  vinegar  and  spices  all  on  the  fire  to  boil  at  the 
same  time.  When  the  syrup  is  hot  add  the  plums  and  stew  until 
tender.  Remove  the  plums  to  the  heated  jars,  take  the  spice 
bags  from  the  syrup,  and  pour  this  into  the  jars. 

Pickled  crabapples  (No.  1) 

Do  not  peel  the  apples,  but  wipe  each  one  carefully.  Weigh, 
and  allow  four  and  a  half  pounds  of  sugar  to  seven  pounds  of 


644  MARION   HARLAND'S   COOK   BOOK 

apples.  Put  the  sugar  and  fruit  in  the  kettle  and  add  just  enough 
water  to  cover  the  lower  layer  of  fruit.  Bring  slowly  to  a  boil, 
and  cook  until  the  apples  are  clear  and  tender,  but  not  broken. 
When  they  can  be  pierced  with  a  stiff  straw  they  are  done.  Have 
ready  boiling  a  pint  of  vinegar  that  has  been  spiced  with  cinna- 
mon, cloves  and  mace.  (The  cloves  may  be  whole,  the  mace 
and  cinnamon  broken  into  bits,  and  all  boiled  in  the  vinegar  for 
ten  minutes.)  Add  the  spiced  vinegar  to  the  boiling  fruit  five 
minutes  before  the  apples  are  ready  to  take  out.  Remove  the 
apples,  spread  on  platters ;  boil  the  syrup  and  vinegar  until  thick ; 
pack  the  apples  in  jars,  and  fill  these  to  overflowing  with  the 
boiling  liquid.  Seal  at  once. 

Pickled  crabapples  (No.  2) 

Weigh  and  peel  fourteen  pounds  of  Siberian  crabapples,  and 
measure  out  a  quart  of  vinegar  and  eight  pounds  of  granulated 
sugar.  Put  the  apples  in  a  kettle  with  a  pint  of  warm  water 
and  stew  gently  for  ten  minutes.  Drain,  remove  the  apples  from 
the  kettle,  and  then  put  them  back  in  layers,  strewing  each  layer 
with  sugar.  Bring  to  a  boil.  Have  ready  boiling  the  vinegar, 
into  which  has  been  stirred  three  tablespoonfuls  of  broken 
stick  cinnamon  and  whole  cloves,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  ground 
mace.  Pour  this  spiced  vinegar  over  the  apples  and  boil  for 
five  minutes.  With  a  perforated  skimmer  remove  the  fruit, 
spread  it  on  platters  to  cool,  boil  the  syrup  until  thick,  pack  the 
apples  in  jars,  and  fill  the  jars  with  the  boiling  syrup.  Seal  im- 
mediately. 

Pickled  beets 

Select  nice  red  beets  and  boil  until  tender.  Plunge  each  one 
separately  into  cold  water,  and  with  your  hands  give  a  little  twist 
to  strip  off  the  skin.  Cut  lengthwise  into  strips.  Place  these, 
not  too  closely,  in  glass  jars,  leaving  room  that  the  liquor 
may  surround  each  piece.  To  two  quarts  of  vinegar  add  four 
pounds  of  brown  sugar  and  one-half  teaspoonful  of  alum,  pow- 
dered. Let  this  boil.  After  skimming,  add  one  teaspoonful, 


PICKLES  645 

each,  of  cloves,  allspice,  mustard,  a  few  peppercorns — all  un- 
ground  and  tied  in  a  bag.  Boil  again,  adding  a  little  cayenne 
and  salt.  Pour  over  the  beets.  Next  day  drain  off  the  syrup, 
bring  to  a  boil,  pour  over  the  beets  again,  then  seal.  This  pickle 
will  be  of  a  rich  red  color  and  very  delicious. 

Spiced  cranberries 

These  are  good  with  roast  duck  or  game.  Wash  a  quart  of 
cranberries  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  half  cupful  of 
cold  water.  Tie  in  a  small  cheese-cloth  bag  a  dozen  cloves,  a 
dozen  allspice,  two  sticks  of  cinnamon  (broken)  and  several 
blades  of  mace.  Put  this  bag  into  the  cranberries  and  water, 
and  stew  all  together  until  the  fruit  is  broken  to  bits.  Remove 
the  spice  bag,  rub  the  berries  through  a  colander,  add  two  tea- 
cupfuls  of  brown  sugar,  stir  over  the  fire  until  dissolved,  and 
set  away  to  get  cold. 

Spiced  grapes  (No.  1) 

Stem,  pulp  and  seed  the  grapes,  then  weigh  them.  To  five 
pounds  of  fruit  allow  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  granulated  sugar 
and  a  teacupful  of  vinegar.  Put  all  over  the  fire  with  two 
ounces,  each,  of  stick  cinnamon,  broken  into  bits,  and  whole 
cloves.  Boil  until  very  thick.  This  will  take  about  half  an 
hour.  The  mixture  should  be  so  thick  that  the  juice  will  not 
run.  When  this  point  is  reached  put  the  fruit  into  jelly  glasses 
set  in  a  pan  of  hot  water.  Cover  the  tops  of  the  glasses  with 
rounds  of  tissue  paper  and  fasten  on  metal  covers. 

The  wild  or  "fox"  grape  is  good  for  spicing,  when  half-ripe. 
The  grapes  must  always  be  firm,  and  not  overripe. 

Spiced  currants 
See  preceding  recipe. 

Spiced  grapes  (No.  2) 

Remove  the  skins  from  grapes,  put  the  pulp  over  the  fire  and 
stew  gently  until  it  can  be  rubbed  through  a  strainer  that  will 


646  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

not  allow  the  seeds  to  pass.  Weigh  the  pulp,  and  to  every  five 
pounds  of  this  add  a  pint  of  cider  vinegar,  four  pounds  of  brown 
sugar,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  ground  cinnamon,  and  two  of 
ground  cloves.  Stew  all  together  until  very  thick.  Pour  into 
jelly  glasses  and  cover  with  closely-fitting  tops. 

Spiced  rhubarb 

To  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  rhubarb,  washed  and  cut  into 
inch  bits,  add  a  cupful  of  vinegar,  two  pounds  of  sugar  and  a 
tablespoonful,  each,  of  cinnamon  and  cloves.  Put  all  into  a  pre- 
serving kettle  and  boil  steadily  for  half  an  hour.  Put  up  in  jelly 
glasses,  as  you  would  jelly. 

Olive  oil  pickles 

(Contributed) 

Peel  and  slice  fifteen  large  cucumbers  and  six  onions.  Salt 
down  heavily  and  let  them  stand  all  night.  In  the  morning  drain  ; 
pour  over  them  half  a  gallon  of  cider  vinegar  and  let  them  stand 
four  hours.  Drain  off  the  vinegar  and  heat  with  half  a  bottle  of 
olive  oil.  Add  some  chopped  red  peppers  and  celery  seed  for  sea- 
soning and  when  thoroughly  heated  pour  over  the  cucumbers  and 
onions,  put  into  glass  jars  and  seal  at  once. 

Sweet  green  tomato  pickles 

(Contributed) 

Slice  one  peck  of  green  tomatoes  and  two  quarts  'of  small  white 
onions,  and  sprinkle  over  them  a  large  cupful  of  salt.  Let  them 
stand  over  night  in  the  brine.  In  the  morning  drain  well  and  let 
them  stand  in  cold  water  for  a  few  minutes.  Pour  this  water  off 
and  add  enough  vinegar  to  cover.  Add  two  pounds  of  brown 
sugar,  one-fourth  of  a  pound  of  mustard  seed  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  each  of  allspice,  whole  cloves  and  stick  cinnamon. 
Cook  all  together  until  the  pickles  are  tender;  put  into  jars  and 
seal. 


PICKLES  647 

Pickled  cauliflower 

(Contributed) 

Break  the  heads  into  small  flowerlets,  and  boil  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes  in  salt  and  water ;  take  from  the  fire  and  drain  carefully. 
When  cold  place  in  a  jar,  and  pour  over  it  hot  vinegar  in  which 
have  been  scalded  whole  cloves,  pepper,  allspice  and  white  mus- 
tard. Have  the  spices  tied  in  a  bag,  and  remove  when  well 
scalded.  For  each  quart  of  hot  vinegar  add  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  French  mustard  and  half  a  cupful  of  white  sugar.  Be  sure  to 
cover  the  pickle  with  vinegar  and  keep  covered  closely. 

Dill  pickles 

(Contributed) 

Make  a  brine  strong  enough  to  bear  an  egg,  then  add  half  as 
much  more  water  as  you  have  brine.  Wash  the  cucumbers  in 
cold  water,  and  into  a  stone  jar  put  first  a  layer  of  cucumbers, 
then  a  layer  of  grape  leaves  and  a  layer  of  dill,  using  leaves  and 
stems.  Continue  in  this  way  until  the  jar  is  full.  Pour  the 
brine  over  all  and  cover,  first  with  a  cloth,  then  with  a  plate,  and 
put  a  weight  on  top  of  the  plate.  The  cloth  must  be  taken  off 
.and  washed  frequently  as  in  making  sauerkraut. 


CATSUPS,  ETCETERA 

CATSUPS  and  spiced  sauces  are  now  so  much  used  that  the 
epicure  feels  they  are  an  indispensable  accompaniment  to  his 
roast  or  broiled  meat,  his  bit  of  fish,  or  fowl,  or  dish  of  game. 
They  may  be  prepared  months  beforehand  and  kept  against  the 
day  of  need.  The  same  rule  holds  in  the  preparation  of  these 
relishes  which  we  have  quoted  with  regard  to  pickles.  They 
must  be  cooked  in  a  porcelain-lined  vessel,  or  one  of  agate  iron. 

Chili  sauce  (No.  1) 

Peel,  and  cut  up  together  three  dozen  large  tomatoes  and  a 
dozen  onions.  Chop  into  bits  half  a  dozen  green  peppers  and 
mix  with  the  tomatoes  and  onions.  Stir  together  a  teacupful  of 
brown  sugar,  five  tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  half  a  dozen  teaspoonfuls, 
each,  of  powdered  allspice,  cloves  and  cinnamon,  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  ground  ginger,  and  a  saltspoonful  of  paprika.  Put  these  spices 
into  three  quarts  of  vinegar,  add  the  vegetables,  mix  thoroughly, 
and  cook  steadily  for  two  hours.  When  cold,  bottle  and  seal. 

Chili  sauce  (No.  2) 

Peel  and  chop  two  dozen  ripe  tomatoes  and  six  onions.  Re- 
move the  seeds  from  two  red  peppers  and  chop  the  peppers  fine ; 
then  stir  them  into  the  tomatoes  and  onions.  Season  all  with 
a  teacupful  of  granulated  sugar,  four  tablespoonfuls  of  salt,  three 
teaspoonfuls,  each,  of  powdered  allspice,  cloves  and  cinnamon, 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger.  Pour  over  all  two  quarts 
of  vinegar,  and  boil  in  a  porcelain-lined  kettle  for  two  and  a  half 
hours.  When  cool,  bottle  and  seal. 

648 


CATSUPS,    ETCETERA  649 

Chutney 

Chop  a  white  cabbage  and  eight  onions.  Pack  in  a  crock  with 
alternate  layers  of  salt  and  let  it  stand  twenty-four  hours.  Into 
a  pint  of  vinegar  stir  a  half-pound  of  brown  sugar,  a  heaping 
teaspoonful,  each,  of  tumeric,  powdered  alum,  cinnamon,  allspice, 
mace,  black  pepper,  mustard  and  celery  seed,  and  heat  all  to  boil- 
ing. Pour  this  liquid  over  the  cabbage  and  onions,  and  set  aside 
for  twenty-four  hours  longer.  Now  drain  off  the  liquid,  bring 
again  to  the  boil,  and  pour  it  again  over  the  pickle.  Do  this  for 
three  mornings ;  put  liquor  and  vegetables  together  in  the  pre- 
serving kettle,  boil  for  five  minutes ;  set  aside  until  cold,  then 
pack  in  jars. 

Piccalilli 

Chop  two  fine  large  cabbages  and  a  pint  of  onions,  and  mix. 
Pack  down  in  a  stone  crock  and  stir  in  a  handful  of  salt.  Leave 
thus  for  twenty-four  hours.  Bring  to  a  boil  a  quart  of  vinegar, 
into  which  have  been  stirred  a  pound  of  sugar  and  a  tablespoonful, 
each,  of  the  following  ground  spices — mustard,  pepper,  mace,  all- 
spice, celery  seed,  cinnamon  and  tumeric.  Pour  over  the  cabbage 
and  onion,  turn  all  into  a  preserving  kettle  and  boil  for  ten  min- 
utes. When  cold,  pack  in  pint  jars. 

Grape  catsup 

Wash  tart  grapes,  remove  the  stems  and  put  the  fruit  into  a 
kettle,  with  just  enough  water  to  prevent  scorching.  Stir  often 
with  a  wooden  spoon  and  cook  until  tender.  Rub,  a  little  at  a 
time,  through  a  fine  colander.  Reject  the  seeds  and  skins,  and 
measure  the  pulp.  To  each  quart  and  a  pint  of  this  add  a  pound 
of  brown  sugar,  a  cupful  of  white  vinegar,  a  heaping  teaspoonful, 
each,  of  ground  cinnamon,  allspice,  mace,  salt  and  white  pepper, 
and  a  half  teaspoonful  of  ground  cloves.  Boil  long  and  steadily 
until  the  catsup  is  reduced  to  less  than  half  the  original  quantity, 
and  very  thick.  When  cold,  bottle,  cork  tightly  and  cover  the 
corks  with  sealing  wax. 


650  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Currant  catsup 

To  four  pounds  of  stemmed  currants  add  two  pounds  of  sugar, 
crush  all  together,  and  boil  slowly  until  quite  thick.  Add  one- 
quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one-half  pint  of  vinegar,  one  tea- 
spoonful,  each,  of  powdered  allspice,  mace  and  cinnamon.  Boil 
up  and  bottle  at  once. 

Mushroom  catsup 

Break  into  quarters  firm,  fresh  mushrooms.  Put  a  layer  of  the 
broken  mushrooms  into  an  earthen  vessel  and  sprinkle  with  salt ; 
then  put  in  more  mushrooms  and  more  salt  until  all  are  used. 
Cover  the  vessel  and  set  it  on  the  cellar  floor  for  three  days,  stir- 
ring the  contents  with  a  wooden  spoon  three  times  a  day.  At  the 
end  of  this  time,  warm  the  mushrooms,  mash  them  to  a  pulp,  and 
strain  through  coarse  netting,  squeezing  out  all  the  juice.  Boil 
this  for  ten  minutes  and  measure.  To  every  pint  of  the  liquor 
allow  a  generous  teaspoonful  of  whole  peppers  and  allspice,  a 
blade  of  mace,  two  slices  of  onion,  a  bay-leaf  and  a  dash  of 
paprika.  Put  liquor  and  spices  over  the  fire,  and  boil  until  thick. 
Strain,  cool  and  fill  bottles  with  catsup.  Seal  tightly. 

Tomato  catsup 

Slice  a  peck  of  unpeeled  tomatoes  with  six  white  onions  and 
boil  together  until  so  soft  they  can  be  rubbed  through  a  colander. 
Now  strain  through  a  sieve  and  return  to  the  fire  with  three  bay- 
leaves,  a  tablespoonful,  each,  of  powdered  mace,  pepper,  cloves, 
sugar,  salt,  a  half  teaspoonful  of  paprika,  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
celery  seed — this  last  tied  up  in  a  small  cheese-cloth  bag.  Boil 
for  nearly  six  hours,  stirring  frequently.  Remove  the  bag  of 
celery  seed,  and  pour  in  a  pint  of  vinegar.  Bring  again  to  a  boil, 
and  remove  from  the  fire.  When  cold,  bottle  and  seal. 

Walnut  catsup 

Select  walnuts  but  half-grown  and  into  which  a  needle  enters 
easily.  Prick  each  clear  through  three  times,  pack  in  layers, 


CATSUPS,    ETCETERA  651 

strewing  a  handful  of  salt  between  the  layers.  Pour  in  cold  water 
until  the  walnuts  are  covered,  lay  a  heavy  inverted  saucer  upon 
them  to  hold  the  walnuts  under  the  brine,  and  keep  them  in  it 
two  weeks.  Every  day  churn  them  with  a  wooden  mallet  to 
bruise  and  crack  them  into  small  bits.  At  the  end  of  the  fort- 
night turn  off  the  brine,  beat  the  nuts  fine ;  cover  them  with  boil- 
ing vinegar  and  add  the  reserved  brine.  Measure  liquid  and 
crushed  nuts,  and  allow  for  each  quart  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of 
onion  juice  and  grated  horseradish ;  two  teaspoonfuls,  each,  of 
ground  cloves  and  mace,  and  a  tablespoonful,  each,  of  ground 
ginger  and  black  pepper.  Boil  steadily  for  two  hours,  run  through 
a  sieve,  cool,  bottle  and  seal. 

Pepper  vinegar 

Break  up  half  a  dozen  red  peppers.  Add  three  dozen  black 
peppercorns  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  to  a  quart  of  vine- 
gar. Scald  vinegar  and  sugar,  and  pour  over  the  peppers.  Put 
in  a  jar,  steep  eight  hours,  strain  and  bottle. 

This  is  to  be  eaten  with  fish  or  raw  oysters. 

Mixed  mustard 

Into  four  tablespoonfuls  of  dry  English  mustard  stir  a  table- 
spoonful  of  salad  oil.  When  this  is  well  rubbed  in,  add  enough 
vinegar  to  make  a  smooth  paste,  a  teaspoonful,  each,  of  paprika, 
sugar  and  onion  juice. 

Beat  hard  until  light,  and  bottle. 


THE  HOME  BREW 

Tea  (hot) 

First.  Never  buy  poor,  cheap  tea.  It  is  the  dearest  in  the  end, 
in  every  sense  of*  the  word,  being  unwholesome,  unpalatable  and 
wasteful.  One  teaspoonful  of  good  oolong,  souchong,  hyson 
or  "bud"  tea,  will  go  farther  than  four  of  a  mixture  which,  when 
brewed,  tastes  at  the  best,  like  boiled  hay. 

Second.  Have  the  kettle  boiling,  and  freshly  boiled.  An  hour's 
simmer  after  the  boil  has  once  been  reached,  makes  the  water 
stale  and  flat. 

Third.  Draw  off  the  tea  within  three  minutes  after  the  water 
is  poured  upon  the  dry  leaves.  After  that,  the  boiling  liquid  ex- 
tracts tannic  acid  in  pernicious  quantities  and  strength. 

Fourth.  Have  the  cups  hot  and  fill  with  clear  tea,  adding  sugar, 
or  cream,  or  both  afterwards,  to  suit  the  taste  of  each  drinker. 

Cold  tea 

Strain  the  liquid  from  the  leaves  within  a  few  minutes  after 
it  is  poured  on.  Set  away  until  cold.  Half-fill  glasses  with 
cracked  ice ;  add  a  slice  of  peeled  lemon,  a  squeeze  of  lemon  juice 
(if  desired)  and  granulated  sugar  to  taste. 

Breakfast  coffee 

Allow  a  cupful  of  freshly  ground  coffee  to  a  quart  of  boiling 
water.  Put  the  coffee  into  the  strainer  and  add  the 
boiling  water  by  degrees,  until  it  is  all  in. 
Pour  off  into  a  heated  pitcher,  and  return 
this  to  the  strainer.  Repeat  until  the 
beverage  is  of  the  requisite  strength,  and  pour  into  heated  cups. 

652 


BEVERAGES 


THE   HOME   BREW  653 

After-dinner  coffee 

Make  as  directed  in  last  recipe,  allowing,  however,  three  cupfuls 
of  boiling  water  to  one  of  freshly  ground  coffee,  and  run  three 
times  through  the  filter. 

Never  pass  cream  with  black  coffee  in  after-dinner  cups — 
"demi-tasses,"  as  the  French,  who  taught  us  to  drink  it,  call  the 
dainty  digestive  agent. 

To  ask  for  cream  in  such  a  case  is  a  gastronomic  and  social 
solecism. 

Cafe  au  lait 

Make  strong  black  coffee  and,  while  hot,  add  to  it  one-third 
as  much  scalding  milk.  Cover  and  set  in  boiling  water  until 
needed. 

Iced  coffee  . 

Set  aside  cafe  au  laik  until  cold.  Fill  tumblers  half-full  of 
cracked  ice ;  sugar  to  taste,  and  pour  in  the  coffee. 

Chocolate 

Heat  two  cupfuls  of  milk,  and  the  same  of  water.  Rub  six  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chocolate  to  a  thin,  smooth  paste  with  cold  water ; 
pour  the  water  gradually  upon  it;  put  into  a  saucepan  and  bring 
it  quickly  to  a  boil.  Cook  thus  five  minutes,  pour  in  the  milk  and 
boil  ten  minutes  longer.  Sweeten  to  the  taste  of  each  drinker, 
and  lay  a  tablespoonful  of  whipped  cream  upon  the  top. 

If  you  would  make  the  chocolate  particularly  good,  heat  a 
sillibub  churn  and  beat  the  beverage  hard  for  five  minutes;  set 
in  a  vessel  of  boiling  water  on  the  range  to  get  smoking  hot; 
pour  out,  sweeten,  and  cap  with  whipped  cream. 

Cocoa 

It  is  made  in  the  same  way. 


654  MARION   HARLAND'S   COOK   BOOK 

Cocoa  nibs  or  "shells" 

Wet  two  ounces  of  cocoa  shells  with  a  little  cold  water,  and 
stir  them  into  a  quart  of  boiling  water.  Boil  steadily  for  an  hour 
and  a  half;  strain,  stir  in  a  quart  of  fresh  milk,  bring  almost  to 
the  scalding  point,  and  serve.  Sweeten  in  the  cups. 

Mint  punch  (very  fine) 

Put  into  your  punch-bowl  a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar;  add 
the  juice  of  six  lemons,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  melts.  Put  in 
three  peeled  lemons,  sliced  very  thin,  and  leave  in  the  ice  until 
you  are  ready  to  use  it.  Add,  then,  a  dozen  sprays  of  green  mint 
and  a  quart,  at  least,  of  pounded  ice.  Stir  well  for  a  minute,  and 
pour  from  a  height  into  it,  two  or  three  bottles  of  imported  gin- 
ger ale. 

Tea  punch 

Pour  a  quart  of  boiling  water  upon  four  teaspoonfuls  of  good 
tea.  Cover,  and  leave  it  for  five  minutes.  Strain  off,  and  cool. 
Half-fill  the  punch-bowl  with  cracked  ice,  add  a  cupful  of  granu- 
lated sugar  and  the  strained  juice  of  four  lemons.  Pour  the  tea 
over  these,  and,  as  it  goes  to  table,  add  a  pint  bottle  of  Apollinaris 
water.  Strew  a  handful  of  mint  sprays  on  the  surface,  and  serve 
at  once. 

Strawberry  punch 

Pour  two  cupfuls  of  strained  fresh  strawberry  juice  upon  a 
cupful  (heaping)  of  granulated  sugar.  Stir  until  the  sugar  is 
dissolved.  Add  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  four  cupfuls  of  cold 
water.  Let  it  get  very  cold  upon  the  ice;  stir  well  and  put  into 
a  punch-bowl.  Just  before  serving,  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
maraschino,  and  half  a  cupful  of  fine,  whole  strawberries. 

Cherry  wine 

Stem  and  wash  ripe,  sweet  cherries,  and  with  a  wooden  mallet 
crush  to  a  pulp.  Press  out  all  the  juice  and  to  each  quart  of  it, 


THE    HOME    BREW  655 

add  a  half-pound  of  granulated  sugar  and  a  cupful  of  water. 
Stir  thoroughly,  pour  into  a  crock ;  cover  this  closely  with  a  thick- 
ness of  cheese-cloth,  and  let  the  wine  ferment  for  a  month.  When 
the  fermentation  has  ceased  rack  off  and  bottle. 

Lemonade,  or  plain  sherbet 

Roll,  peel  carefully  and  slice  thin  six  lemons.  Put  into  a  pitcher 
or  bowl  with  alternate  layers  of  granulated  sugar,  two  teaspoon- 
fuls  for  each  lemon.  Leave  on  the  ice  until  you  are  ready  to 
serve ;  then  add  a  quart  of  iced  water  and  a  great  lump  of  ice. 

Lively  lemonade 

Make  as  directed  in  preceding  recipe,  but  pour  in  at  the  last,  a 
quart  of  chilled  Apollinaris,  instead  of  the  iced  water. 

Raspberry  vinegar 

Mash  the  berries  and,  when  reduced  to  a  pulp,  add  enough 
vinegar  to  cover  them.  Set  close  by  the  stove  for  twelve  hours, 
stirring  often.  Strain  and  press ;  add  as  many  raspberries 
(mashed)  to  the  vinegar  as  before;  cover  and  leave  in  the  kitchen 
or  in  the  hot  sun  for  six  hours.  Now  strain,  and  measure  the 
juice;  add  half  as  much  water  as  you  have  juice,  and  stir  into 
this  five  pounds  of  granulated  sugar  for  every  three  pints  of 
liquid.  Bring  slowly  to  a  boil,  let  it  boil  up  once,  and  strain. 
Bottle,  cork  and  seal. 

* 
Blackberry  vinegar 

Make  this  by  the  recipe  for  raspberry  vinegar,  only  putting 
in  five  and  a  half  pounds  of  sugar  to  every  three  pints  of  the  juice 
and  water  mixed. 

Rhubarb  wine 

Boil  the  rhubarb  in  a  double  boiler,  adding  no  water  after  you 
have  washed  it  and  cut  it  into  bits.  Press  out  all  the  juice  and 


656  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

measure  this.  Add  as  much  water  as  you  have  juice,  sweeten  to 
taste,  and  add  a  cup  of  brandy  to  a  gallon  of  the  liquid.  Bottle 
and  seal. 

Grape  juice 

Stem  six  quarts  of  grapes  and  put  them  over  the  fire  with  one 
quart  of  water ;  bring  slowly  to  a  boil  and  strain.  Return  the  juice 
to  the  fire,  bring  again  to  the  boil,  bottle  and  seal,  while  scalding- 
hot. 

Cherry  bounce 

Beat  to  a  pulp  two  pounds,  each,  of  sweet  and  tart  cherries, 
and  mix  together.  The  beating  should  be  done  with  a  heavy 
mallet  that  the  stones  may  be  crushed.  Stir  into  the  mashed 
fruit  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  granulated  sugar;  turn  all  into 
a  stone  crock,  and  stir  in  a  quart  of  white  whiskey.  Leave  thus 
for  an  hour;  stir  and  pour  into  a  demijohn.  Cork  and  let  it 
stand  for  a  month,  shaking  hard  each  day;  then  let  it  alone  for 
six  weeks  without  shaking.  Rack  off,  strain  and  bottle. 

Wild  cherry  bounce 

Bruise  with  a  potato  beetle  five  quarts  of  ripe,  wild  cherries, 
and  stir  into  them  four  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar.  Turn  into 
a  stone  crock,  cover,  and  set  in  the  cellar  for  twenty-four  hours. 
Now,  add  a  quart  and  a  cupful  of  brandy — stirring  it  in  well. 
Let  the  mixture  alone  for  six  weeks — stirring  every  few  days — 
before  straining  off  the  liquor  through  double  cheese  cloth.  Bot- 
tle and  seal.  When  ready  for  use,  fill  liquor  glasses  with  crushed 
ice  and  pour  the  crimson  cordial  into  them.  It  is  an  excellent 
tonic,  and  also  good  for  a  cough. 

Homemade  grape  wine  (No.  1) 

Put  the  grapes,  stems  and  all,  into  an  open  cask,  and  mash  them. 
Cover  your  cask  with  cheese-cloth  to  prevent  anything  from  fall- 
ing in,  as  one  crumb  of  bread  will  change  the  contents  into  vine- 
gar. When  the  grapes  have  fermented,  pass  through  a  fruit 


THE    HOME    BREW  657 

press ;  turn  the  juice  that  has  been  extracted  into  a  clean,  close 
cask,  and  let  it  remain  on  its  side  for  a  month,  when  your  wine 
will  be  ready  to  be  bottled.  By  no  means  disturb  the  cask,  or 
the  wine  will  not  be  clear.  Keep  the  wine  in  a  dark,  cool  place, 
and  lay  the  bottles  containing  it  on  their  sides.  When  the  grapes 
are  fermenting,  stir  every  day. 

Grape  wine  (No,  2) 

Crush  out  the  juice  of  ripe  grapes,  after  having  picked  them 
from  the  stems.  A  large  quantity  could  be  crushed  in  a  cider 
press,  but  when  only  a  few  are  to  be  used  they  can  be  mashed 
in  a  crock,  or  clean  tub,  with  a  potato  beetle.  Strain,  then, 
through  a  bag,  squeezing  or  pressing  this  so  as  to  get  all  the  juice 
possible.  To  each  quart  of  the  juice  add  half  a  pound  of  white 
sugar,  and  put  away  in  a  clean  cask,  or  big  jar  to  ferment.  Cover 
the  top,  or  the  bung-hole,  with  a  piece  of  netting.  Let  the  juice 
and  sugar  ferment  for  three  or  four  weeks,  until  it  is  clear  and 
still.  Pour  it  off  the  lees  carefully,  and  bottle. 

Matzoon 

Take  one  and  a  half  ounces  of  prepared  matzoon,  which  you 
can  get  at  drug  stores,  and  one  quart  of  fresh  milk.  Stir  well 
and  place  in  a  pitcher  at  a  temperature  of  from  70  to  90  degrees, 
for  from  nine  to  twelve  hours,  until  it  begins  to  thicken  like 
junket;  then  beat  it  for  ten  minutes.  Bottle  in  patent-stoppered 
bottles,  and  put  on  ice.  Fresh  matzoon  may  be  made  from  that 
which  you  have  prepared  in  this  way.  You  have  to  buy  but  one 
bottle  to  start  with.  This  quantity  makes  three  bottles,  not  quite 
full,  as  it  effervesces  like  koumiss. 

Strawberry  wine 

Mash  and  strain  six  quarts  of  ripe  strawberries.     To  every 
quart  of  juice  add  a  quart  of  water  and  a  pound  of  sugar.     Stir 
well,  and  turn   into  a   crock  to  ferment.     When   fermentation 
ceases,  rack  off.  carefully,  bottle  and  seal. 
42 


658  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Dandelion  wine 

Steep  the  dandelion  flowers  in  boiling  water  for  five  minutes, 
and  strain  off  the  liquid,  pressing  the  flowers  hard.  Sweeten  to 
taste  and  add  brandy  in  the  proportion  of  a  pint  to  every  four 
gallons  of  liquid.  Put  in  uncorked  bottles  and  keep  in  a  cool 
place  until  fermentation  ceases.  Draw  off  and  rebottle. 

Dandelion  cordial 

Four  quarts  of  dandelion  blossoms;  four  quarts  of  boiling 
water;  four  quarts  of  granulated  sugar;  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
compressed  yeast ;  two  lemons  grated  fine ;  one  orange. 

Let  the  blossoms  and  water  stand  together  until  lukewarm; 
mix  and  add  the  sugar,  orange,  lemons  and  yeast ;  strain,  and 
put  in  a  cold  place  for  two  days ;  then  strain  again.  Put  into  a 
keg  and  let  it  work,  without  tight  corking,  until  as  clear  as  water. 

Dandelion  tea 

Pour  boiling  water  over  the  dandelion  blossoms;  let  them 
stand  at  the  side  of  the  fire  to  steep,  but  not  boil,  for  five  minutes ; 
then  strain,  pressing  out  all  the  juice.  Sweeten  to  taste  and 
drink  very  hot,  or  cold,  in  a  glass  filled  with  cracked  ice. 

Ginger  beer 

Boil  six  ounces  of  bruised  ginger  in  six  quarts  of  water  for  half 
an  hour;  then  add  five  pounds  of  loaf  sugar,  a  gill  of  lemon  juice, 
a  quarter-pound  of  honey,  and  seventeen  quarts  of  cold  water, 
and  strain  through  a  cloth.  When  it  is  cold  put  in  an  egg  and 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  essence  of  lemon.  After  standing  three  or 
four  days  it  may  be  bottled. 

Ginger  wine 

Four  gallons  of  water  and  seven  pounds  of  sugar.  Boil  half 
an  hour,  skimming  well;  let  the  liquor  get  cold.  Then  squeeze 
in  the  juice  of  two  lemons.  Have  ready  three  pints  of  water  in 


THE    HOME    BREW  659 

which  the  peel  of  two  lemons  and  two  ounces  of  white  ginger 
root  (pounded  fine)  have  been  boiled  one  hour  and  left  to  get 
cold.  Mix  with  the  syrup  and  add  three  pounds  of  halved 
Malaga  raisins.  Put  all  into  a  cask,  shake  well;  close  the  cask 
and  let  it  stand  in  the  cellar  for  two  months  before  racking  it  off 
and  bottling  it.  A  lump  of  unslaked  lime  as  large  as  a  pigeon's 
egg  put  into  the  cask  will  prevent  souring. 

Mead 

Beat  to  a  stiff  froth  the  whites  of  three  eggs,  and  mix  with 
six  gallons  of  water,  sixteen  quarts  of  strained  honey,  and  the 
yellow  rind  of  two  lemons,  peeled  very  thin.  Boil  all  together 
during  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  skimming  it  well ;  put  it  into  a 
tub  and,  when  lukewarm,  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  the  best 
fresh  yeast.  Cover,  and  leave  it  to  ferment.  When  it  has  worked, 
transfer  it  to  a  barrel,  with  the  lemon  peel  in  the  bottom.  Let  it 
stand  six  months,  and  bottle  it. 

Strawberry  punch. 

Mash  two  quarts  of  strawberries  to  a  pulp,  pour  over  them 
three  quarts  of  water  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons.  Stand  in  a 
cool  place  for  four  hours,  strain,  and  stir  into  the  liquid  a  pound 
and  a  half  of  granulated  sugar.  Stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved, 
strain  again,  and  set  in  a  cold  place  until  wanted.  Serve  in 
tumblers  of  crushed  ice. 

Sarsaparilla  wine 

To  one  gallon  of  water  add  one  pound  of  sarsaparilla  leaves 
and  stems,  two  pounds  of  sugar,  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  raisins, 
and  one  lemon.  As  the  fruit  contains  a  natural  ferment,  it  will 
undergo  that  process  spontaneously,  without  the  use  of  yeast. 
Let  it  stand  five  days,  strain  and  bottle.  If  you  have  not  the  herb, 
omit  the  sugar,  and  use  in  its  place  a  gallon  of  sarsaparilla  syrup. 

(Purchase    a    "shaker"    for    compounding    drinks    in    which 


66o  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

cracked  ice  forms  an  important  factor.  This  shaker  consists 
simply  of  a  thick  glass  tumbler,  over  which  is  turned,  upside- 
down,  a  larger  cup  of  tin.  This  cup  fits  tightly  over  the  glass, 
and  the  contents  of  the  tumbler  may  be  vigorously  shaken  until 
thoroughly  mixed  and  foamy.) 

Iced  orange  juice 

Make  a  syrup  of  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  three-quarters  of  a  cup- 
ful of  water  boiled  together  for  ten  minutes,  then  set  aside  until 
cold.  Mix  a  half-pint  of  orange  juice  and  a  gill  of  lemon  juice, 
and  sweeten  abundantly  with  the  cold  syrup.  In  sweetening  this 
beverage,  remember  that  the  ice  is  still  to  be  added,  and  that  this, 
in  melting,  will  dilute  the  syrup  and  thus  render  the  drink  more 
acid.  Fill  tumblers  to  the  brim  with  finely-cracked  ice  and  pour 
the  orange  mixture  upon  it.  This  is  a  refreshing  beverage. 

Milk  shake 

Have  ready  some  sugar  syrup  made  according  to  the  directions 
in  the  recipe  for  iced  orange  juice.  Sweeten  a  half-pint  of  un- 
skimmed milk  with  the  syrup ;  flavor  with  a  half  teaspoonful  of 
vanilla  extract ;  turn  into  the  glass  of  your  shaker,  and  add  enough 
crushed  ice  to  fill  the  glass  to  the  brim.  Shake  long  and  hard  be- 
fore pouring  into  a  chilled  tumbler. 

Koumiss 

Dissolve  a  third  of  a  yeast-cake  in  a  gill  of  warm  milk  and 
add  two  teaspoonfuls  of  granulated  sugar.  Have  ready  scalded 
a  beer  bottle  with  a  patent  fastener.  If  you  have  not  this,  use 
an  ordinary  bottle  with  a  straight  cork,  and  soak  the  cork  for 
half  an  hour  to  swell  it.  Fill  the  bottle  three-quarters  full  of 
fresh  milk,  heated  until  just  blood- warm,  and  pour  in  the  yeast- 
mixture.  Shake  hard  for  two  minutes,  and  cork  tightly.  If  you 
use  an  ordinary  cork,  cord  or  wire  it  down.  Set  the  bottle  in  the 
warm  kitchen  for  six  hours,  or  until  the  contents  begin  to  "work" 
and  foam.  Then  set  in  the  ice-chest  until  needed.  As  one  yeast- 


THE    HOME    BREW  661 

cake  will  make  three  bottles  of  koumiss  it  is  quite  as  easy  to  make 
that  quantity  at  once  as  it  is  to  prepare  one  bottle  of  the  stimulat- 
ing and  nourishing  beverage. 

Blackberry  cordial 

(Contributed) 

Warm  and  squeeze  the  berries;  add  to  one  pint  of  juice  one 
pint  of  sugar,  one-half  ounce  of  powdered  cinnamon,  one-fourth 
ounce  of  mace,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cloves.  Boil  all  together 
for  one-fourth  of  an  hour ;  strain  the  syrup,  and  to  each  pint  add 
a  glass  of  French  brandy.  Two  or  three  doses  of  a  tablespoonful 
or  less  will  check  any  slight  diarrhea. 

It  will  arrest  dysentery  if  given  in  season,  and  is  a  pleasant 
and  safe  remedy. 

Raspberry  cordial 

(Contributed) 

Sweeten  the  berries  a  little  sweeter  than  for  table  use,  and  let 
them  stand  over  night.  In  the  morning  lay  in  a  hair  sieve  over  a 
bowl ;  let  them  remain  until  evening,  so  as  to  thoroughly  drain ; 
then  put  the  juice  into  a  thick  flannel  bag;  let  it  drain  over  night, 
being  careful  not  to  squeeze  it,  as  it  takes  out  the  brightness  and 
clearness.  Do  all  this  in  a  cool  cellar  or  it  may  sour.  To  two 
pints  of  juice  add  one  pint  of  French  brandy  and  sweeten  to  taste. 

Toast  water 

(Contributed) 

Toast  a  pint  of  bread  crusts  very  brown ;  pour  cold  water  over 
them,  let  them  stand  for  an  hour,  strain,  and  add  cream  and  sugar 
to  taste.  The  nourishment  in  the  bread  is  easily  absorbed  when 
taken  in  the  liquid  form. 


662  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Slippery-elm  tea 

(Contributed) 

Pour  one  cupful  of  boiling  water  over  one  teaspoonful  of  slip- 
pery-elm bark.  When  cold,  strain,  and  add  lemon  juice  and  sugar 
to  taste.  This  is  very  soothing  in  case  of  inflammation  of  the 
mucous  membrane  of  the  throat. 

Apple  tea 
(Contributed) 

Roast  two  large  sour  apples  and  pour  boiling  water  over  them. 
When  cold,  pour  off  the  water,  strain,  and  sweeten  to  taste. 

Flaxseed  tea 

(Contributed) 

Pour  a  pint  of  boiling  water  over  an  ounce  of  flaxseed  and  a 
little  licorice-root,  and  let  it  stand  where  it  will  keep  warm 
but  not  cook,  for  four  hours.  Strain  through  a  piece  of  linen 
and  make  fresh  every  day.  This  is  an  excellent  drink  for  a  fever 
patient  who  has  a  cough. 

Flaxseed  lemonade 

(Contributed) 

Over  four  tablespoonfuls  of  flaxseed  pour  one  quart  of  boiling 
water  and  let  it  steep  three  hours.  Strain,  sweeten  to  taste,  and 
add  the  juice  of  two  lemons.  If  too  thick,  add  more  water.  This 
is  very  soothing  in  colds. 

Egg-nogg 

(Contributed) 

Beat  until  very  light,  the  yolk  of  one  egg  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
sugar ;  then  add  the  white  of  the  egg  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Stir 
well  together,  pour  into  a  glass,  and  add  a  teaspoonful  of  rum 
or  brandy  and  as  much  milk  as  the  glass  will  hold.  It  will  give 
more  nourishment  if  whipped  cream  is  used  instead  of  milk. 

Serve  with  grated  nutmeg  over  the  top. 


FORMAL  BREAKFASTS  AND  LUNCHEONS 

THE  social  breakfast  is  becoming  more  and  more  of  a  function. 
Not  the  early  morning  breakfast,  where  the  tempers  of  the  eat- 
ers are  not  always  under  perfect  control,  but  a  later  and  more 
leisurely  meal,  to  which  guests  are  asked  and  where  much  the 
same  laws  of  convention  apply  that  are  observed  at  a  luncheon. 
In  fact,  the  breakfast  resembles  a  luncheon  in  most  respects. 
Here,  as  at  luncheon,  the  hardwood  table  is  bare  except 
for  a  handsome  white  square,  and  for  doilies  under  the 
dishes  and  plates.  The  table  is  spread  as  for  luncheon,  the 
knives  at  the  right,  the  edges  turned  towards  the  plate,  the 
tumbler  near  the  points  of  these,  the  spoon  laid  by  the  knife, 
the  forks  at  the  left,  and  beyond  them  the  napkin,  a  piece  of 
bread  folded  in  it.  At  the  left  also  stands  the  bread  and  butter 
plate. 

At  the  breakfast,  however,  there  is  a  little  less  formality  than 
at  the  luncheon,  as  there  are  also  fewer  and  less  elaborate  courses. 
For,  although  the  breakfast  is  usually  served  at  twelve  or  half 
after — only  a  little  earlier  than  the  ordinary  mid-day  meal — it  is 
regarded  as  less  conventional  in  nearly  every  respect. 

Soup  is  not  served  at  the  formal  breakfast  any  more  than  it 
would  be  at  the  family  meal  known  by  that  name.  The  whole 
bill  of  fare  is  rather  an  amplification  of  the  common  breakfast 
than  a  variation  from  it.  For  that  reason  sweets  are  out  of 
place  to  conclude  it  unless  one  wishes  to  introduce  the  English 
fashion  of  having  a  pot  of  marmalade  and  toast  brought  in  to 
wind  up  the  repast. 

Following  this  preamble  are  given  a  couple  of  menus  that  may 
serve  as  suggestions  for  the  hostess  who  wishes  to  entertain  at 
breakfast.  It  is  an  especially  charming  way  of  gathering  one's 
friends  about  one  in  the  warm  days  when  heavy  dinners  are  out 


664 


MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 


of  the  question  and  even  late  luncheons  come  at  the  hour  when 
long  sitting  at  meals  is  likely  to  be  a  weariness  to  the  flesh.  The 
summer  breakfast  may  be  served  as  early  as  eleven,  or  even  as 
ten  o'clock,  while  that  of  the  late  winter  mornings  may  be  held 
back  until  the  noon  hour  : 


BREAKFAST  MENU.     I 


Tomato  Omelet 


Grapefruit  Salad 


Fresh  Strawberries 

Broiled  Chicken 
French  Fried  Potatoes 
Coffee  in  large  cups 
Crackers 


French  Rolls 


Cream  Cheese 


II 


Lamb  Chops 


Wafers 


BREAKFAST  MENU. 

Iced  Orange  Juice 
Poached  Eggs  with  Asparagus  Tips 

Toast 

Green  Peas  English  Muffins 

Coffee  in  large  cups 

Cream  Tomato  Salad 

Brie  or  Roquefort  Cheese 


Either  of  these  menus  may  be  adapted  to  any  season.  For 
example,  if  the  breakfast  be  a  spring  or  summer  function,  the 
strawberries  may  be  served — large  strawberries,  unhulled,  to  be 
dipped  in  sugar  and  eaten  with  the  fingers,  in  the  fashion  that 
we  have  imported  from  England.  If  the  berries  are  not  in  sea- 
son, however,  the  orange  juice,  made  so  cold  as  to  be  almost 
frappe,  and  served  in  small  punch-glasses,  may  take  their  place. 
Either  the  berries  or  the  orange  juice  should  be  on  the  table 
when  the  guests  take  their  seats.  Nothing  else  should  be  there 
then,  except  the  regular  furniture  of  the  table,  the  glass  or  bowl 
of  flowers  in  the  center  of  the  board,  the  piece  of  bread  laid  in  the 
napkin  and  the  butter  ball  or  tiny  print  on  the  bread  and  butter 
plate.  Hors  d'oeuvres  are  out  of  place  on  the  breakfast  table, 


FORMAL  BREAKFASTS  AND  LUNCHEONS   665 

unless  you  have  radishes,  which  are  decorative  as  well  as  ap- 
petizing. 

When  the  fruit  has  been  eaten  and  has  gone,  the  omelet  may 
come  in.  This  should  appear  whole.  A  Spanish  omelet,  with 
the  rich  yellow  of  the  eggs,  the  red  of  the  tomatoes  and  the 
green  of  the  peppers,  is  too  pretty  a  thing  to  be  cut  before  the 
guests  have  had  a  chance  to  see  it  in  all  its  beauty.  It  may  be 
passed  to  each  guest,  or,  better  still,  served  by  the  host  or  hostess. 
In  putting  down  a  plate  in  front  of  any  one  the  waitress  should 
approach  on  the  right  side,  just  as,  when  she  is  passing  a  dish 
from  which  the  guest  is  to  serve  himself,  she  should  offer  it  on 
the  left.  In  the  case  of  the  eggs,  which  are  usually  prepared  in 
individual  dishes,  she  should  put  a  plate  in  front  of  the  guest, 
standing  on  his  right  side  as  she  does  so.  A  small  doily  may  be 
laid  under  each  nappy.  The  toast  may  be  either  dry  or  buttered. 
The  rolls  should  have  been  put  in  the  oven  long  enough  to  be- 
come heated. 

For  the  third  course  of  the  meal  rather  large  breakfast  plates 
should  be  used,  and  these  must  be  well  heated.  The  chicken  may 
be  passed  or  carved  on  the  table ;  the  chops  should  be  passed. 
So  should  be  the  potatoes  and  peas.  The  hostess  should  serve 
the  coffee  at  this  point,  having  the  equipage  in  front  of  her  at 
the  head  of  the  table  as  she  would  at  a  family  breakfast.  The 
cream  and  sugar  may  be  passed  that  each  guest  may  add  the 
"trimmings"  to  his  coffee  to  suit  himself. 

Either  the  grapefruit  salad  or  the  cream  tomato  salad  is  fea- 
sible at  almost  any  time  of  year.  With  it  are  served  the  crackers 
and  cheese — on  the  same  plate.  This  concludes  the  meal,  un- 
less, as  I  have  said,  you  wish  to  introduce  the  jam-pot  and  hot 
toast.  But  in  most  cases  the  guests  will  have  had  all  they  want 
by  this  time. 

At  a  breakfast  the  guests  may  be  both  men  and  women — pro- 
vided one  is  able  to  find  enough  disengaged  men  to  make  a  fair 
sprinkling.  The  breakfast  should  not  be  too  large  a  gathering. 
Not  less  than  four,  not  more  than  eight,  is  a  good  rule. 

At  the  luncheon,  on  the  contrary,  there  may  be  any  number 
that  >he  table  can  accommodate,  and  men  are  usually  barred. 


666  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

The  luncheon  differs  from  the  breakfast,  too,  in  being  a  more 
formal  function.  Never  at  a  luncheon  could  a  guest  rise  from 
the  table  to  wait  on  herself  or  some  one  else,  as  may  be  done  at 
a  breakfast,  without  risking  the  proprieties  of  the  occasion.  The 
table  is  set  in  the  same  way,  but  the  linen 
should  be,  if  possible,  more  elaborate. 
More  embroidery,  or  richer  lace,  is  per- 
missible on  the  cloth  and  center-piece, 
and  color  may  be  admitted  more  freely 
than  at  the  breakfast.  The  flowers  may 
be  more  and  loftier,  and  at  an  elaborate 
luncheon  a  corsage  bouquet  for  each 
guest,  or  at  least  a  fine  flower  laid  at  each 
place  is  en  regie.  There  may  be  place- 
cards  also,  and  even  favors,  although  these  are  by  no  means  nec- 
essary, or  in  most  cases,  desirable.  On  the  table,  as  well  as  the 
necessary  plenishing,  are  small  dishes  of  salted  almonds,  olives, 
radishes  and  bonbons.  Wine  may  be  served  also,  if  one  wishes  it, 
and  the  glitter  of  the  wine-glasses  adds  to  the  beauty  of  the  table. 
If  artificial  light  be  preferred,  there  may  be  candles  with  colored 
shades  that  harmonize  with  the  tint  of  the  flowers,  and  the  china 
should  be  as  much  in  keeping  with  this  chosen  shade  as  possible. 
The  luncheon,  where  only  one  color  is  prominent,  is  much  more 
artistic  than  that  where  there  is  a  confusion  of  hues. 

The  accompanying  luncheon  menus  may,  like  those  given  for 
the  breakfast,  serve  as  suggestions  to  the  hostess  on  the  lookout 
for  a  harmonious  bill  of  fare : 

LUNCHEON  MENU.     I 

Oyster  Cocktails 
Cream  of  Pea  Soup  Salmon  Cutlets  Duchesse  Potatoes 

Broiled  Chicken 
Green  Peppers  Stuffed  with  Rice 

Lettuce  Salad 

Crackers  Camembert  Cheese 

Orange  Mousse  Small  Cakes 

Coffee 


FORMAL    BREAKFASTS    AND   LUNCHEONS    667 

LUNCHEON  MENU.     II 

Fruit  Frappe 
Little  Neck  Clams  Chicken  Bouillon 

Baked  Bluefish 

Broiled  Tomatoes 

Sweetbreads  in  Timbales 

Stuffed  Lamb  Chops  and  Mushrooms 

Green  Peas 
Cucumber  Salad 

Crackers  Creme  Gervais  Cheese 

Cafe  Parfait 
Coffee 

The  oyster  cocktails  or  the  fruit  frappe  should  be  on  the  table 
when  the  guests  enter  the  room,  the  hostess  leading  the  way  with 
the  guest  of  honor.  No  formal  order  is  necessary  in  the  en- 
trance of  the  rest  of  the  company.  After  this  first  course  the 
plates  are  changed  in  the  usual  fashion,  taking  from  the  right 
and  replacing  from  the  same  side.  The  soup  is  served  in  bouillon 
cups.  In  neither  luncheon  is  anything  carved  on  the  table,  al- 
though occasionally,  when  a  crown  of  lamb  or  whole  chickens  are 
served,  or  even  fillet  of  beef,  the  hostess  carves.  But  she  should 
not  attempt  this  unless  she  has  a  very  poor  carver  in  the  kitchen 
or  is  remarkably  deft  at  it  herself. 

The  table  is  not  crumbed  until  after  the  salad  course,  and  the 
work  is  always  done  with  a  napkin.  The  silver  crumb-knife  is 
altogether  out  of  favor  at  present.  At  this  stage,  too,  all  the 
hors  d'oeuvres  are  removed  except  the  bonbons.  These  are  often 
taken  into  the  drawing-room  after  the  luncheon  for  the  guests 
to  nibble  while  they  chat  for  the  prescribed  time  before  taking 
their  departure.  Often  the  coffee,  too,  is  served  in  the  drawing- 
room. 

When  wine  is  served  at  a  ladies'  luncheon  it  is  usually  some 
light  wine,  like  Sauterne.  Only  one  wine  is  necessary,  although 
occasionally  sherry  is  offered  with  the  fish.  If  a  liquor  is  served 
afterwards  it  is  generally  creme  de  menthe,  poured  into  tiny 
glasses,  first  filled  to  the  brim  with  crushed  ice.  It  is  said  to  be 
an  excellent  digestive. 


CONCERNING  DINNER  GIVING 

THE  formal  dinner  is  the  most  dignified  function  in  the  social 
calendar.  Even  a  big  luncheon  is  less  stately,  and,  by  compari- 
son, breakfasts,  afternoon  teas  and  evening  parties  are  mere 
child's  play. 

A  dinner  is  the  one  meal  with  which  liberties  can  not  be  taken. 
Yet  there  are  rash  souls  who  have  attempted  it  and  have  even 
introduced  at  a  dinner  a  course  cooked  in  a  chafing-dish.  Such 
efforts  may  meet  with  the  approval  of  a  few  youthful  and  frivo- 
lous souls,  but  they  can  only  shock  those  who  have  a  proper  ap- 
preciation of  the  esthetics  and  ethics  of  gastronomy. 

All  this  applies  to  the  formal  dinner,  to  which  guests  are  in- 
vited long  in  advance  and  where  the  staid  succession  of  courses 
can  be  compared  only  to  the  progress  of  the  units  of  the  solar 
system.  One  can  understand  the  dismay  of  these  when  a  comet 
darts  across  their  established  orbits.  Such  is  the  effect  pro- 
duced upon  the  graduate  diner-out  when  variations  are  attempted 
in  the  solemn  dinner  of  state. 

But  there  is  another  sort  of  a  dinner — The  Little  Dinner.  It 
would  never  claim  capitals  on  its  own  account,  but  they  are  be- 
stowed willingly  by  those  who  have  fallen  victims  to  its  charms. 
At  the  little  dinner  the  bill  of  company  is  considered  as  well  as 
the  bill  of  fare,  and  neither  is  chosen  without  deep  thought.  No 
chances  are  taken  when  there  can  be  but  four  or  six  or  eight  to 
sit  down  to  the  table  and  where  the  courses  are  few  enough  to 
demand  perfection  in  each. 

As  a  matter  of  course,  this  can  not  be  managed  without  labor. 
The  hostess  must  give  close  attention  to  every  item  on  the  menu. 
She  must  see  that  her  table  is  all  it  should  be  in  appearance  and 
that  there  is  no  chance  for  any  hitch  in  the  proceedings.  For 
while  not  so  tremendous  an  affair  as  the  many-coursed  dinner, 
the  little  dinner  still  has  a  dignity  all  its  own  and  with  this  one 
may  not  trifle. 

668 


CONCERNING   DINNER   GIVING  669 

The  table  should  be  spread  with  the  finest  and  whitest  of  dam- 
ask over  the  "silence  cloth"  that  is  now  indispensable  in  every 
well-regulated  household.  More  and  more  the  fancy  is  growing 
to  have  the  center-pieces  at  a  dinner,  of  pure  white,  with  no  touch 
of  color.  That  may  be  supplied  by  the  flowers,  the  china,  the 
candle  shades.  The  center-piece  may  be  of  linen,  rich  in  em- 
broidery or  heavy  with  lace,  but  all  must  be  colorless. 

The  flowers  that  are  in  the  center  of  the  table  may  be  in  a 
rather  low  receptacle,  so  as  not  to  interfere  with  the  conversation 
or  glances  of  the  guests  seated  opposite  one  another.  The  can- 
delabra, or  dinner  lamps,  may  stand  at  the  corners  of  the  table. 
Here  and  there  may  be  little  dishes  in  silver,  cut  glass  or  rare 
china,  holding  such  hors  d'oeuvres  as  salted  nuts,  radishes,  olives 
and  the  like,  and  bonbons.  Except  for  carafes  of  water  there 
should  be  nothing  else  on  the  table  besides  the  furniture  of  the 
individual  covers. 

This  is  substantially  the  same  as  at  a  luncheon.  The  service 
plate,  the  knives  on  the  right,  the  forks  on  the  left, — one  for  each 
course, — the  soup  spoon  laid  with  the  knives,  the  water  glass  and 
wine  glasses  to  the  right,  the  napkin,  a  piece  of  bread  folded 
in  it,  to  the  left.  There  is  no  butter  used  at  a  dinner  and  the 
bread  and  butter  plate  is  therefore  not  needed.  Always  space 
enough  should  be  allowed  between  the  places  to  prevent  crowding. 

Of  the  menus  that  follow  two  are  for  the  little  dinner.  The 
third  is  for  a  rather  more  elaborate  function,  and  the  fourth  may 
serve  as  an  outline  for  one  of  the  big  dinners  that  every  one  has 
occasion  to  give  once  in  a  while. 

DINNER  MENU.     I     (FOR  VERY  LITTLE  DINNER) 

Anchovy  Toast 
Cream  of  Asparagus  Soup 

Roast  of  Lamb 
Green  Peas  Browned  New  Potatoes 

Lettuce  Salad 

Crackers  Brie  Cheese  Olives 

Wine  Jelly  with  Whipped  Cream 

Coffee 


670  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

DINNER  MENU.     II 

Little  Neck  Clams 

Consomme  a  la  Royale 

Asparagus  with  Hollandaise  Sauce 

Roast  Capon 
Rice  and  Green  Peppers  Creamed  Spinach 

Shrimp  Salad 

Crackers          Roquefort  Cheese          Stuffed  Olives 

Pistachio  Ice  Cream 

Coffee 

DINNER  MENU.     Ill 

Raw  Oysters 
Cream  of  Celery  Soup 

Baked  Shad 
French  Fried  Potatoes  Sliced  Cucumbers 

Broiled  Sweetbreads 

Fillet  of  Beef,  Mushroom  Sauce 

Tomato  Farcies  Rice  Croquettes 

Asparagus  Salad 

Olives     Radishes 

Strawberry  Mousse 

Crackers        Camembert  Cheese 

Coffee 

DINNER  MENU.    IV 

Caviar  on  Toast 
Raw  Oysters  or  Clams 

Consomme 

Baked  Halibut 

Stuffed  Tomatoes  Parisienne  Potatoes 

Mushrooms  on  Toast 

Spring  Lamb,  Mint  Sauce 

Green  Peas  Sweetbread  Croquettes 

Sherbet 
Roast  Duck,  with  Olive  Sauce 


CONCERNING   DINNER    GIVING  671 

Crab  Salad 

Nesselrode  Pudding 

Fancy  Cakes 

Coffee 
Celery       Crackers       Gorgonzola  and  Roquefort  Cheese 

For  the  little  dinner  as  for  the  big  the  service  is  essentially  the 
same.  The  appetizer,  or  the  oysters  with  which  the  meal  begins, 
should  be  on  the  table  when  the  guests  come  into  the  room,  the 
host  leading  the  way  with  the  guest  of  honor,  the  other  guests 
following  the  couple,  and  the  hostess  bringing  up  the  rear  with 
the  man  to  whom  she  wishes  to  show  especial  attention. 

The  service  plate,  which  is  on  the  table  under  that  containing 
the  appetizer,  is  left  there  until  after  the  soup  has  been  eaten. 
In  fact  the  guest  should  never  be  left  without  a  plate  in  front  of 
him.  As  soon  as  one  that  has  been  used  is  taken  away  the  service 
plate  should  be  restored,  to  be  in  turn  taken  away  when  the  next 
plate  from  which  he  is  to  eat  is  put  before  him. 

The  serving  should  all  be  done  from  the  right,  as  has  been 
directed  in  the  chapter  on  luncheons,  and  the  dishes  passed  on  the 
left  side.  The  soup  may  be  served  by  the  hostess  at  a  little  dinner, 
but  always  at  the  large  dinner  and  often,  too,  at  the  smaller  func- 
tion the  plates  are  rilled  by  the  servant  in  the  pantry  and  placed 
before  the  guests.  The  entrees  are  passed.  The  roast  is  rarely 
carved  on  the  table,  even  at  a  small  dinner.  The  carving  is  done 
outside  and  the  dish  passed  that  each  guest  may  serve  himself. 
The  day  when  the  portion  of  each  guest  was  put  on  his  plate  in 
the  pantry  and  then  put  before  him  has  unhappily  passed.  Un- 
happily, because  it  simplified  matters  for  both  the  guest  and  the 
waitress. 

In  changing  the  plates,  more  than  one  plate  should  never  be 
taken  at  a  time.  It  is  a  favorite  trick  with  lazy  or  unskilled  wait- 
resses to  take  off  as  much  as  can  be  carried.  Sometimes  they 
even  go  to  the  point  of  piling  up  all  the  various  pieces  that  belong 
to  one  cover.  This  should  not  be  permitted.  Let  there  be  an 
assumption  of  abundant  service,  even  when  this  is  lacking. 

The  salad  may  be  dressed  on  the  table  if  preferred,  and  this  is 


672  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

often  done  at  the  little  dinner.  In  that  case  the  small  basin  in 
which  the  dressing  is  to  be  mixed  is  put  before  the  hostess,  to- 
gether with  the  flasks  of  oil  and  vinegar,  the  salt  and  pepper  and 
the  fork  with  which  the  stirring  is  to  be  done.  If  chives  or  garlic 
is  to  be  used,  it  should  be  in  the  bowl  when  this  is  brought  in. 
The  dressing  may  either  be  passed  to  each  guest,  or,  better  still, 
poured  upon  the  salad  in  the  dish,  and  this  then  passed. 

When  it  comes  to  the  ices  the  method  of  procedure  is  changed 
a  little.  The  individual  ices  may  be  placed  on  the  plates  from 
which  they  are  to  be  eaten  and  these  then  put  in  front  of  the 
guests. 

The  coffee  may  be  served  either  at  the  table  or  in  the  drawing- 
room.  The  latter  is  always  done,  when  the  men  are  to  be  left 
behind  to  smoke.  Under  these  circumstances  there  is  usually 
cognac  provided  for  them,  while  a  liqueur  of  a  milder  type  is 
offered  to  the  women  in  the  drawing-room.  When  all  go  out 
together  they  may  either  have  the  cordial — maraschino,  char- 
treuse, benedictine,  or  whatever  it  may  be,  before  leaving  the  table 
or  in  the  drawing-room. 

The  service  of  wines  is,  in  a  way,  a  question  by  itself.  It  is 
not  necessary  to  have  more  than  one  wine  at  a  little  dinner — a 
good  claret,  or  sauterne,  or  Rhine  wine.  Poor  champagne  is  one 
of  the  most  wretched  of  beverages,  and  it  takes  a  rich  man  to  sup- 
ply a  really  good  article.  If  champagne  is  served,  however,  it 
should  be  ice  cold,  and  may  be  poured  after  the  fish.  With  the 
soup,  sherry  may  be  served,  and  claret  with  the  entrees.  If  one 
has  a  number  of  wines,  the  white  should  be  offered  with  the  fish. 

But,  as  I  have  said,  a  number  of  wines  is  not  necessary  except 
for  a  very  large  or  formal  affair.  In  fact,  the  use  of  wines  is 
entirely  optional.  If  they  are  to  be  used  at  all,  however,  it  should 
be  in  the  correct  fashion,  white  wines  chilled,  claret  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  room.  The  waitress  should  have  a  napkin  pinned 
around  the  neck  of  the  bottle  and  should  stand  on  the  right  when 
she  fills  the  glasses.  She  should  watch  these  to  see  that  they  are 
not  allowed  to  become  empty. 

One  caution  to  the  hostess,  a  caution  which  may  perhaps  be 
unnecessary.  Never  attempt  a  dinner  unless  you  are  sure  of  your 


CONCERNING    DINNER    GIVING  673 

waitress.  An  inexperienced  maid  or  man  has  it  in  her  power  to 
ruin  the  best  cooked  dinner.  No  dinner,  no  matter  what  its  per- 
fections in  other  respects,  can  be  satisfactory  to  the  guests  when 
the  hostess  is  uneasy  or  annoyed  about  the  conduct  of  the  courses, 
the  serving  of  the  food. 

Temperatures  at  which  wines  should  be  served 

Claret  should  be  served  warm — not  warmer  than  eighty  nor 
colder  than  sixty-five  degrees. 

Bordeaux  and  burgundy  should  be  served  at  a  temperature  of 
about  seventy  degrees. 

Chablis  and  other  white  wines  should  be  served  at  forty-five 
degrees. 

Port  at  fifty-five  degrees. 

Sauterne  and  other  white  claret,  fifty  degrees. 

Sherry  is  best  at  forty  degrees. 

Madeira  should  be  at  sixty-five  degrees. 

Champagne  should  have  a  temperature  of  thirty-four.  To  cool 
this  it  should  be  laid  on  the  ice — the  dry,  for  a  half  or  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour;  the  sweet,  several  hours  before  using.  Great 
care  should  be  taken  when  putting  the  bottles  on  the  ice  not  to 
shake  them. 


SOME  STUDIES  OFCOLORINFAMILY 
DINNERS 

A  green  and  white  dinner 

IN  the  springtime  you  will  have  no  difficulty  in  finding  pale 
green  leaves  or  delicate  ferns  with  which  to  grace  your  table. 
Blossoms,  such  as  the  snow-drop,  or  the  white  wood-anemone, 
may  be  surrounded  by  fragile  ferns  and  serve  as  a  dainty  floral 
piece  for  the  middle  of  the  table.  Pear  blossoms,  with  their 
bright  green  leaves,  will  form  an  attractive  mass  of  flowers  and 

43 


674  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

foliage.  If  you  have  a  center-piece  and  doilies  embroidered  with 
green  silk,  make  use  of  them  for  this  family  dinner.  If  you  do  not 
possess  such,  your  plain  damask  will  be  entirely  in  keeping.  Your 
menu  may  be  as  follows : 

Cream  of  Spinach  Soup 

Lamb  Chops 
Mashed  Potatoes,  Green  Peas 

Lettuce  Salad 

Cocoanut  and  Citron  Layer  Cake 

Crackers  and  Sage  Cheese 

Coffee 

A  pink  dinner 
(For  Friday.) 

The  month  of  June  is  the  time  of  all  the  year  for  a  pink  dinner, 
for  then  the  table  may  be  decked  with  a  profusion  of  pink  roses 
that  will  delight  the  heart  of  the  flower-lover.  Set  a  huge  bowl 
of  these  upon  a  white,  or  pink-and-white  center-piece,  dropping  a 
bud  or  half-blown  rose  here  and  there  upon  the  table-cloth.  Have 
your  lights  softened  by  pink  shades,  and  use  as  much  white,  or 
pink-and-white  china  as  you  have  at  your  command. 

Have  the  following  menu : 

Cream  of  Beet  Soup 

Boiled  Salmon 

Potatoes  Fried  Whole,  Tomato  Souffle 
Beet  and  Celery  Salad 

Strawberry  Sponge 
Pink-and-White  Cake 
Crackers  and  Cheese 
Coffee  * 

A  brown  dinner 

Need  not  be  a  somber  array  if  you  will  give  it  in  autumn,  and 
study  the  countless  shades  of  golden-brown,  olive-brown,  red- 


CONCERNING   DINNER    GIVING  675 

brown,  greenish-brown,  and  even  the  purple-brown  of  the  oak — 
exquisite  and  indescribable — which  field,  forest  and  fen  offer  to 
one  who  has  the  true  artist's  love  for  color.  Decorate  your  table 
and  the  room  with  autumn  leaves,  keeping  the  color  scheme  in 
mind  all  the  time.  Have  brown  nuts,  and  chocolate,  and  coffee 
bonbons,  and  if  there  be  no  brown  china  upon  your  shelves,  see 
to  it  that  there  are  no  discordant  hues. 

MENU 

Bean  Soup 
Braised  Beef 

Boiled  Potatoes — browned 

Baked  Onions  Scalloped  Tomatoes 

Salad  of  "Mignonette"  Lettuce 

Chocolate  Pudding 
Coffee        Graham  Crackers        Camembert  Cheese 


A  yellow  dinner 

Cream  of  Cheese  Soup 

Boiled  Fowls  with  Egg  Sauce 

Stewed  Carrots  Yellow  Turnips 

Buttered  Rice 

Macedoine  Salad 

French  Tapioca  Custard 

American  Cheese  Egg  Crackers 

Cafe  au  Lait 

Goldenrod,  if  in  the  autumn;  daffodils  in  the  early  spring; 
coreopsis  in  summer,  for  decorations. 


AN  EVENING  RECEPTION  AND  A 
CHAFING-DISH  SUPPER 

THE  old-fashioned  evening  party — which  was  by  no  means  a 
dancing  party,  nor  even  a  card  party — has  almost  gone  out  of 
date.  In  this  rushing  day  it  seems  next  to  impossible  to  pass 
an  evening  with  one's  friends  with  only  conversation  to  make  the 
time  glide  pleasantly.  If  there  is  no  special  amusement  for  the 
sake  of  which  the  company  is  assembled,  there  must  be  music  or 
recitations,  or  something  else  to  prevent  the  guests  from  boring 
one  another. 

Still,  once  in  a  while  even  now  there  is  an  old-fashioned  party. 
More  often  it  takes  the  form  of  a  reception  to  meet  this  or  that 
distinguished  person,  or  to  celebrate  some  occasion.  At  such  af- 
fairs, as  at  a  wedding  reception,  it  appears  to  be  necessary  to  make 
up  to  the  guests  for  the  boredom  they  are  presumably  suffering 
by  carrying  out  the  principle — "feed  the  brute."  Accordingly, 
an  elaborate  collation  is  spread,  and  the  men  and  women  who  have 
no  other  especially  cheerful  recollection  of  the  evening,  can  at 
least  testify  that  they  have  eaten  and  drunk  well. 

For  such  events  the  supper  is  a  pretty  serious  affair,  and  unless 
the  hostess  has  well-trained  servants  she  would  better  commit  the 
matter  into  the  hands  of  professionals.  Still,  if  she  be  one  who 
herself  looks  well  to  the  ways  of  her  household,  and  has  her  own 
ample  corps  of  competent  domestics,  she  may,  perhaps,  achieve 
the  supper  without  turning  to  outside  help.  In  this  case  the  re- 
freshments will  amount  to  much  less  in  cost  than  if  she  relied 
upon  professional  caterers  and  waiters. 

676 


AN    EVENING   RECEPTION  677 

For  the  supper,  which  is  to  supply  a  large  evening  party,  the 
bill  of  fare  may,  in  a  measure,  resemble  that  already  suggested 
for  an  extensive  afternoon  tea  or  reception.  I  give  two  menus, 
either  of  which  is  entirely  suitable  for  an  evening  collation. 

MENU  FOR  EVENING  SUPPER. 
I 

Bouillon  Creamed  or  Scalloped  Oysters 

Lobster,  Shrimp,  or  .Chicken  Salad 

Sandwiches,  or  Thin  Bread-and-butter 

Ices  and  Parfaits,  Cakes,  Coffee,  Fruit  Punch 

MENU  FOR  EVENING  SUPPER. 
II 

Bouillon,  Oyster  Croquettes,  Sweetbread  in  pates 

Salmon,  or  Chicken  Salad     Cold  Turkey,  or  Chicken 

Mousses,  Biscuits  and  other  Ices  Fancy  Cakes  Fruit 

Coffee  Iced  Tea  Punch 

The  table  is  set  in  the  dining-room,  which  is  not  opened  until 
late  in  the  evening.  Everything  that  the  house  possesses  in  the 
way  of  handsome  china,  cut  glass  and  silver  may  be  called  into 
requisition  to  beautify  the  occasion.  There  is  usually  a  corps  of 
waiters  in  attendance,  although  the  gentlemen  are  also  expected  to 
do  their  duty  in  fetching  and  carrying,  and  in  serving  the  ladies 
under  their  escort.  There  are  times  when  they  do  nearly  all  the 
helping  to  the  various  dishes  as  well,  but  this  custom  grows  less 
and  less  common. 

Usually  the  table  has  a  center-piece  of  flowers  and  fruit,  which 
is  meant  for  beauty  rather  than  for  use.  If  fruit  is  to  be  passed 
it  is  either  served  in  smaller  dishes,  or  is  taken  with  care  from 
the  foot  of  the  central  pyramid,  where  its  loss  will  not  interfere 
with  the  beauty  of  the  table.  Piles  of  plates,  napkins,  knives, 
forks  and  spoons  are  arranged  on  the  main  table,  or  on  a  side- 


678  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

board,  and  the  dishes  of  salad,  sandwiches,  oysters,  etc.,  are  also  on 
the  principal  table. 

Such  a  supper  as  this  is  appropriate  for  a  dancing  party,  a 
wedding  reception  or  any  other  form  of  evening  gaiety.  As  a 
rule,  there  is  also  a  bowl  of  punch  in  evidence  in  the  hall  near  the 
drawing-room  to  allay  the  thirst  of  those  who  can  not  wait  until 
the  full  supper  is  served. 

For  smaller  parties,  like  card  parties,  club  reunions  and  the 
like,  so  elaborate  a  bill  of  fare  is  not  necessary  or  desirable.  For 
such  functions  as  these  the  chafing-dish  has  supplied  a  felt  want. 
With  little  trouble  and  comparatively  small  expense  it  is  possible 
for  the  owner  of  a  chafing-dish  to  set  out  a  feast  that  will  hardly 
fail  to  satisfy  even  a  hungry  college  boy. 

A  couple  of  bills  of  fare  are  herewith  suggested  for  the  use 
of  the  hostess  whose  experience  with  the  chafing-dish  has  been 
too  limited  to  take  her  beyond  the  realm  of  lobster  a  la  Newburg 
and  Welsh  rarebit.  The  amateur  generally  fancies  that  these  are 
the  only  combinations  which  lie  within  the  range  of  the  chafing- 
dish,  and  it  comes  to  him  as  a  surprise  to  be  told  that  there  are 
scores  of  toothsome  dainties  he  can  manage  if  he  have  the  knack 
of  the  chafing-dish. 

CHAFING-DISH    SUPPER. 
I 

Pigs  in  Blankets 

Chicken  Bouillon 

Thin  Bread-and-Butter 

Welsh  Rarebit 

Ale  or  Beer 

Coffee 


AN    EVENING   RECEPTION  679 

CHAFING-DISH    SUPPER. 
II 

Scotch  Woodcock 

Crackers 

Oysters  or  Clams,  creamed 

Lettuce  Sandwiches 

Cheese  Fondu 

Coffee 

For  a  chafing-dish  supper  there  should  be  no  more  guests  than 
can  group  themselves  comfortably  about  the  dining-room  table. 
As  a  rule,  the  dishes  that  are  prepared  are  not  of  the  variety  that 
one  can  eat  readily  from  a  plate  balanced  on  the  knee,  or  in  the 
hand.  If  the  main  table  be  not  large  enough  to  permit  of  all 
being  seated  about  it,  there  may  be  smaller  tables  for  the  "over- 
flow." If  one  chafing-dish  is  too  small  to  prepare  as  much  as 
the  appetites  of  the  eaters  crave,  there  may  be  one  at  each  end  of 
the  table,  and  there  should  be  an  expert  in  charge  of  each. 

The  table  may  be  simply  set — either  bare,  or  covered  with  a 
plain  cloth.  Flowers  are  out  of  place  in  the  middle  of  it,  as  inter- 
fering with  the  free  view,  of  the  chafing-dish  by  the  guests.  For 
it  makes  no  difference  how  often  one  has  seen  a  dish  cooked,  there 
is  always  curiosity  to  see  it  done  once  more.  About  the  chafing- 
dish  are  placed  all  the  paraphernalia  that  attend  upon  that  kind  of 
cookery — the  condiments,  the  utensils,  the  spoons,  forks,  knives, 
measuring  cups  and  the  like.  In  chafing-dish  cookery  nothing 
can  wait,  and  everything  that  by  any  chance  can  be  needed  must 
be  there  in  advance. 

Let  no  one  be  so  deluded  by  any  amount  of  theoretical  knowl- 
edge as  to  venture  to  make  a  maiden  essay  at  chafing-dish  cookery 
in  the  presence  of  a  company  of  guests.  There  should  always  be 
a  rehearsal  beforehand.  Nowhere  else  is  stage  fright  more  im- 
minent. Nowhere  else  has  it  more  disastrous  possibilities. 

If  feasible  there  should  be  a  servant  at  hand  with  a  supply  of 
hot  dishes.  All  the  other  work  of  cooking  and  waiting  may  be 
performed  by  the  hostess  and  her  guests.  The  occasion  should 


68o  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

be  most  informal.  Persons  who  can  not  unbend  readily  should 
never  go  to  chafing-dish  parties.  They  will  find  themselves  much 
out  of  place.  To  those  who  are  fond  of  easy  laughter  and  simple 
fun  and  a  good  deal  of  nonsense,  and  whose  digestions — this  is 
chiefest  of  all — are  in  good  working  order,  there  are  few  social 
relaxations  that  are  pleasanter  than  a  chafing-dish  "affair." 

Some  recipes  which  may  be  cooked  in  a  chafing-dish 

[References  are  to  pages.] 

Scrambled  eggs  (79)  Pigs  in  blankets  (151) 

Mince  of  tongue  and  eggs  (81)  Broiled  oysters  (146) 

Mince  of  ham  and  eggs  (81)  Panned  oysters  (149) 

Eggs  and  tomatoes  (85)  Oyster  omelet  (83) 

Olla  podrida  omelet  (86)  Creamed  clams  (152) 

Corn  omelet  (448)  Sardine  eggs  (160) 
Scrambled  eggs  with  cheese  (86)Creamed  codfish  (104) 

Rice  omelet  (86)  A  "pick  up"  of  fish  (164) 

Fish  omelet  (87)  A  "toss  up"  of  veal  (172) 

Ham  omelet  (87)  Broiled  mushrooms  (135,459) 

Minced  eggs  (88)  Stewed  kidneys  (119) 

Creamed  oysters  (145)  Creamed  potatoes  (473) 

Oyster  stew  (148)  Cream  toast  (76) 

Curried  oysters  (149)  Anchovy  croutons  (161) 
Lobster  a  la  Newburg  (154,  347)  Sautes  oysters  (152) 

Creamed  lobster  (154)  Cheese  omelet  (85) 

Curry  of  lobster  (154)  Creamed  chicken  (125,  196) 

Deviled  lobster  (155)  Curried  chicken  (172) 

Crabs  and  champignons  (156)  Broiled  chicken  (124,  407) 

Buttered  shrimps  (157)  Creamed  sweetbreads  (122) 

Curried  shrimps  (157)  Frizzled  beef  and  eggs  (180) 

Shrimps  and  eggs  (158)  Nonpareil  Welsh  rarebit  (202) 

Maryland  terrapin  (158)  Cream  cheese  golden  buck  (202) 

Curry  of  salmon  (162)  Oysters  with  mushrooms  (150) 


FAMILIAR  TALK 

• 

COMMON    SENSE   AND    "ETIQUETTE" 

A  BRIGHT  young  fellow  told  the  anecdote  at  a  dinner  party.  I 
borrow  it  for  the  occasion. 

A  self-making  man  in  process  of  manufacture,  dined  with  a 
more  sophisticated  friend  at  a  city  restaurant.  When  the  soup 
was  brought  on,  the  S.  M.  M.  prepared  for  business  by  laying  a 
slice  of  bread  on  the  cloth,  and  troweling  it  with  butter.  His 
host,  who  had  been  requested  by  the  guest  to  "coach  him  a  little 
in  city  ways,"  said  mildly : 

"That  isn't  quite  the  thing,  old  man !  Break  off  a  bit  of  bread 
and  butter  it,  as  you  wish  to  eat  it." 

"All  right !"  said  the  other,  "I  want  to  know  about  the  latest 
touches." 

His  next  solecism  was  to  fish  up  a  bit  of  meat  from  the  dish 
with  his  own  fork,  and  his  friend  again  set  him  right.  Blunder 
No,  3  was  putting  his  knife  into  his  mouth;  No.  4  was  cutting 
up  his  salad ;  No.  5,  sandwiching  cheese  between  two  crackers 
and  crunching  it  noisily ;  No.  6  was  creaming  black  coffee. 

"I  say !"  he  broke  in  at  this  point,  still  good-humoredly,  "what 
do  you  call  all  these  fool  rules  you've  been  telling  me?  I 
s'pose  a  fellow  ought  to  know  something  about  them.  But  they 
come  hard,  at  first." 

"I  suppose,"  said  the  mentor,  somewhat  nonplussed,  "that  they 
may  all  be  classed  under  the  head  of  table  etiquette." 

"Et-er-ket !"  slowly  and  thoughtfully.  "Well,  I  say,  old  fellow 
— there  ain't  many  that  has  got  on  to  it  yet — is  there  ?" 

Resisting  the  temptation  to  dwell  upon  the  many  who  never 
"get  on  to  it,"  let  us  look  for  the  commonsensible  basis  of  certain 
minor  social  usages  which  are  accepted  as  matters  of  course  by 

68 1 


682  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

well-bred  people,  and  contemned  by  the  boorish  and  ignorant  as 
"fool  rules"  that  hamper  personal  liberty. 

Few  conventionalities  are  arbitrary.  Most  of  them  are  reasona- 
ble, many  so  just  as  to  be  binding  upon  the  lovers  of  decency  and 
order,  not  to  say  healthfullness. 

To  carry  food* to  the  mouth  with  the  knife-blade  is  awkward, 
and  if  the  knife  have  an  edge,  unsafe.  If  I  were  at  the  point  of 
death,  I  should  laugh  and  blush  together  at  the  memory  of  the 
commotion  excited  in  a  London  family  hotel  last  year  by  the 
exclamation  of  an  American  tourist  who  jumped  up  from  the 
dinner-table  and  clapped  his  napkin  to  his  mouth  with — "Waiter ! 
Never  put  a  sharp  knife  at  my  place  again !  I  have  cut  my  mouth 
badly !  It  might  have  done  serious  harm !" 

The  rule  against  touching  fish  with  a  knife  dates  back  to  a 
time  when  steel  knives  were  in  general  use.  Steel  imparts  an 
unpleasant  taste  to  the  more  delicate  kinds  of  cooked  fish.  Hence, 
the  custom  of  leaving  the  knife  beside  the  plate,  and  using  the 
fork  alone  during  the  fish  course. 

A  like  rule  obtains  with  regard  to  salads.  To  cut  is  to  bruise 
the  tender  esculents,  and  to  injure  the  flavor.  The  leaves  of  let- 
tuce should  be  torn  apart  in  preparing  it  for  the  table,  with  as 
little  handling  as  possible,  and  eaten  as  soon  as  the  salad  is 
dressed.  Other  salads — as  beets,  celery,  etc.,  are  cut  up  and  ready 
for  eating  when  sent  to  table.  To  use  the  knife  upon  them  is  a 
reflection  upon  cook  and  host. 

To  butter  a  whole  slice  of  bread  at  once — especially  when  it 
is  laid  on  the  table  in  order  to  do  it — is  slovenly,  wasteful  and 
awkward.  If  eaten  as  a  whole,  one  must  gnaw  or  nibble  at  it, 
and  to  cut  it  after  it  is  buttered  is  neither  neat  nor  convenient. 

The  fashion  of  finger-bowl  and  napkin  would  seem  to  commend 
itself  to  everybody  as  eminently  cleanly  and  comforta- 
ble. Yet  there  are  still  well-to-do  people  who  sneer  at 
the  idea  of  "doing  one's  washing  at  the  table." 

The  by-law  obeyed  by  the  transient  guest  who  lays  his  napkin 
carelessly  on  the  table  when  the  meal  is  over,  instead  of  folding 
it,  is  easily  understood.  To  fold  it  implies  that  it  may  be  used 
again  before  it  is  washed. 


FAMILIAR   TALK  683 

"Mr.  Blank  has  no  napkin,  James!"  said  a  hostess  of  the 
nouveau  riche  order,  to  her  butler. 

"I  beg  pardon!"  interposed  the  guest,  lifting  a  corner  of  the 
napkin  from  his  knee  that  she  might  see  her  mistake.  "I  have 
one." 

"Ah !"  with  an  apologetic  smile.  "I  saw  that  you  did  not  have 
it  on!" 

To  tuck  the  napkin  into  the  collar,  or  pin  it  around  the  neck 
before  attacking  one's  food  may  be  a  wise  precaution  if  one  has 
never  learned  to  convey  it  to  the  mouth  without  dropping  or  drip- 
ping it.  Gentlemen  are  supposed  to  have  put  away  bibs  with  other 
childish  things.  The  suggestion  of  putting  a  napkin  "on"  is  not 
agreeable.  The  place  for  the  useful  bit  of  fine  linen  is  on  the  knee 
or  lap,  out  of  sight  of  fellow-eaters. 

Black  coffee  in  after-dinner  coffee  cups  is  a  digestive  agent — a 
gastronomic  expletive — not  a  beverage.  To  cream  it  is  to  pervert 
its  meaning,  and  to  defeat  the  end  for  which  it  is  served.  It  is 
well  known  that  the  addition  of  cream  or  milk  to  coffee  causes  a 
chemical  change  in  both  ingredients.  To  some  stomachs  creamed 
coffee,  or  cafe  au  lait,  is  poisonous.  Clear  black  coffee  is  a  tonic, 
and  agrees  with  everybody. 

To  toss  off  a  glass  of  water  as  soon  as  one  sits  down  to  a  meal 
is  an  infringement  of  table-etiquette.  Those  who  recognize  the 
fact  do  not  always  bethink  themselves  of  the  reason  lying  back 
of  the  "fool  rule."  To  fill  the  stomach  with  iced  water  is  to  check 
the  process  of  digestion  temporarily.  To  add  to  the  water  a 
plateful  of  hot  soup  is  to  disgust  the  diaphragm  by  a  load  of  luke- 
warm liquid,  very  like  the  dish-water  in  the  pan  of  an  untidy 
scullion. 

I  might  go  on,  ad  infinilum,  multiplying  instances  of  what  are 
sneered  at  by  the  untaught  and  unthinking  slaves  of  their  own 
prejudices  as  foolish  and  useless  limitations  to  a  man's  right  to 
eat,  drink  and  make  merry  after  his  own  fashion.  Which — I  may 
observe — is  usually  the  fashion  of  the  beasts  that  perish. 

Enough  has  been  said  to  give  credit  to  the  sagacity  and  hu- 
manity of  those  who  set  the  pace  for  our  better  classes — better  in 
so  far  as  they  conserve  the  best  interests  of  the  race,  ^and  lend 
countenance  to  all  that  is  kindly,  wholesome  and  comely. 


"CANNED  GOODS" 

CANNED   FRUITS 

I  CLIP  from  a  family  paper  an  item  linking  ancient  and  modern 
housewifery : 

"It  is  a  singular  fact  that  we  are  indebted  to  Pompeii  for  the 
great  industry  of  canned  fruits.  Years  ago,  when  the  excavations 
were  just  beginning,  a  party  of  Americans  found,  in  what  had 
been  the  pantry  of  a  house,  many  jars  of  preserved  figs.  One 
was  opened,  and  its  contents  were  fresh  and  good.  Investigation 
showed  that  the  figs  had  been  put  into  the  jar  in  a  heated  state ; 
an  aperture  had  been  left  for  the  steam  to  escape  and  then  sealed 
with  wax.  The  hint  was  taken,  and  the  next  year  fruit-canning 
was  introduced  in  the  United  States." 

There  is  no  reason  why  canned  fruits  which  have  kept  one  year 
should  not  keep  for  a  hundred  years  in  a  dark  place.  The  light 
acts  chemically  upon  the  contents.  If  not  properly  canned  they 
will  spoil  within  a  few  weeks.  Hence,  no  preliminary  which  will 
make  this,  the  heaviest  work  of  the  summer,  thorough,  yet  as 
easy  as  possible,  should  be  neglected. 

Granite  or  porcelain  lined  kettles,  with  bales  and  lips  for  con- 
venience in  pouring,  and  which  are  free  from  all  blemish  or  break 
in  the  glazing,  are  almost  essential  for  this  work.  They  should 
be  broad,  that  considerable  surface  may  be  exposed  to  the  heat, 
and  deep  enough  to  prevent  boiling  over. 

A  small,  sharp-pointed  knife  for  paring;  also,  an  old  silver- 
plated  knife  ground  to  a  fine  edge,  will  be  found  convenient  for 
articles  which  a  steel  knife  might  discolor. 

Wooden  spoons,  a  wire  spoon,  large  and  small  silver  spoons, 
scales,  a  hair  sieve,  an  agate-iron  colander,  a  wooden  masher,  a 

684 


CANNED    GOODS  685 

fruit  press,  coarse  and  fine  cheese-cloth,  and  fine  cotton  and  wool 
flannel,  are  almost  essential  to  the  sort  of  work  I  have  indicated. 

Quart  and  pint  glass  jars,  with  large  tops,  are  the  best  for  gen- 
eral use.  See  that  the  glass  covers  are  free  from  nicks,  the  spring, 
or  clamp,  in  perfect  order,  and  that  the  rubbers  are  new  and  free 
from  cracks.  A  few  jars  of  the  two-quart  size  will  not  be  amiss 
if  you  plan  to  can  large  fruit  whole. 

Use  the  best  granulated  sugar,  and  "agate-nickel-steel"  or 
porcelain-lined  ware  as  kettles. 


Canned  tart  apples 

Peel  and  quarter  firm  apples,  throwing  them  into  cold  water  as 
you  do  so.  Weigh  the  fruit  and  allow  two  pounds  of  granulated 
sugar  to  eight  pounds  of  apples.  Put  the  apples  into  a  preserv- 
ing-kettle, pour  over  them  barely  enough  cold  water  to  cover 
them,  and  let  them  cook  gently  until  tender.  While  these  are 
cooking,  make  a  syrup  by  mixing  the  sugar  with  water  (allowing 
a  cupful  of  water  to  each  pound  of  sugar)  and  bringing  to  a  boil. 
Cook  for  four  minutes,  then  lift  the  tender  apples  from  the  water, 
lay  them  gently  in  the  syrup,  simmer  for  a  minute,  and  while 
very  hot,  put  into  self-sealing  jars.  These  apples  make  excellent 
pies. 

Canned  sweet  apples 

Core  campfield,  or  "pound  sweets,"  or  other  sweet  apples,  drop- 
ping them  in  water  as  you  do  this.  When  all  are  ready,  pack  in 
heated  glass  cans.  Have  at  hand  a  syrup  made  by  mixing  a  cup- 
ful of  sugar  with  a  cupful  of  water,  allowing  this  quantity  to 
every  two-quart  can.  Boil  hard  fifteen  minutes,  adding  the  juice 
of  half  a  lemon  for  every  two  cups  of  sugar.  Roll  the  cans  in  hot 
water  before  putting  in  the  apples*  fill  at  once  with  the  boiling 
syrup,  and  set  in  a  bake-pan  of  hot  water,  then  in  a  good  oven. 
When  the  syrup  is  again  at  the  boiling  point,  seal  immediately. 

Larger  apples  may  be  put  up  in  this  way  by  coring  and  quarter- 
ing. They  are  delicious  eaten  with  cream. 


686  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Canned  apple  sauce 

Cut  up  tart  apples  without  paring,  leaving  out  the  cores.  Put 
over  the  fire  with  a  cupful  of  water  in  the  bottom  of  a  large  kettle 
to  prevent  burning,  and  cook  soft.  Rub  through  a  colander  to 
get  rid  of  the  peel,  reheat  to  the  boiling  point,  add  two  tablespoon-1 
fuls  of  sugar  to  each  pint  of  the  sauce,  stirring  it  over  the  fire ; 
fill  the  jars  to  overflowing  and  seal  while  boiling-hot.  It  will 
keep  well  for  years,  and  be  most  acceptable  when  apples  are  scarce. 

Canned  seckel  pears 

Peel  the  pears,  dropping  them  into  cold  water  as  you  do  so,  to 
prevent  their  turning  dark.  To  every  two  quarts  of  fruit  allow 
a  quart  of  water  and  a  half-pound  of  granulated  sugar.  Bring 
the  sugar  and  water  to  a  boil,  and  when  bubbling  lay  the  pears 
in  this  syrup.  Boil  until  the  fruit  can  be  pierced  with  a  straw. 
Pack  the  hot  fruit  in  air-tight  cans,  fill  to  overflowing  with  the 
boiling  syrup  and  seal. 

Canned  pears,  impeded 

Wash  and  core  large,  firm  pears  in  cold  water,  put  into  a  kettle, 
cover  with  cold  water,  and  simmer  gently  until  tender,  but  not 
until  they  begin  to  break  or  crumble.  Remove  from  the  fire  and 
spread  in  pans  to  cool.  Make  a  syrup  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  four 
pounds  of  the  fruit  and  a  quart  of  water,  and  boil  for  five  minutes, 
then  add  the  juice  of  two  lemons.  Pack  the  pears  carefully  into 
jars,  fill  the  jars  to  overflowing  with  the  scalding  liquid,  and  seal. 

Canned  peaches 

Peel,  stone  and  halve  the  peaches,  dropping  them  into  cold 
water  as  you  do  so.  Allow  a  cupful  of  sugar  to  four  quarts  of 
fruit.  Pour  a  cupful  of  water  into  the  bottom  of  a  preserving- 
kettle,  put  in  a  layer  of  peaches,  sprinkle  with  sugar,  add  more 
peaches  and  more  sugar  until  all  the  fruit  is  used.  Bring  slowly 


CANNED    GOODS  687 

to  a  boil,  and  do  not  cook  for  more  than  fifteen  minutes.     Can 
and  seal  immediately,  boiling-hot. 

Canned  plums 

To  six  quarts  of  plums  allow  a  cupful,  each,  of  sugar  and  water. 
Wipe  the  plums  and  prick  each  with  a  needle.  Put  the  sugar  and 
water  into  a  porcelain  kettle,  and  lay  the  plums  in  this.  Bring 
slowly  to  a  boil  and  cook  for  five  minutes.  Put  the  plums  into 
jars  and  fill  these  to  overflowing  with  the  boiling  liquid.  Seal  at 
once. 

Canned  green  gages 

Prick  each  plum  in  two  places  with  a  darning-needle.  To  every 
pound  of  fruit  allow  a  half-pound  of  sugar  and  a  half  cupful  of 
water.  Bring  the  sugar  and  water  to  a  boil,  lay  the  plums  in 
this,  and  simmer  for  five  minutes.  Pack  the  plums  in  jars,  fill 
with  boiling  syrup  and  seal. 

Canned  cherries 

To  every  pound  of  washed  and  stemmed  Morello  cherries  allow 
a  half-pound  of  sugar.  Put  the  sugar  over  the  fire  with  enough 
water  to  dissolve  it,  and  boil  to  a  thin  syrup.  As  the  scum  rises 
to  the  top  of  the  liquid,  remove  it.  Turn  the  cherries  into  the 
boiling  liquid,  and  cook  for  five  minutes.  Remove  the  cherries 
from  the  kettle,  pack  into  pint  jars,  fill  with  the  boiling  syrup, 
and  fit  on  air-tight  lids. 

These  cherries  may  be  used  in  filling  baked  pastry-shells,  and 
thus  form  delicious  tarts. 

Canned  rhubarb 

Rhubarb  may  be  canned  the  same  as  cherries,  cut  in  inch 
lengths  without  peeling;  allow  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  sugar 
to  a  pound  of  fruit.  Scald  quickly,  fill  jars  and  seal. 


688  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 


Canned  raspberries  (1) 

To  each  quart  of  raspberries  allow  a  half  teacupful  of  water 
and  a  half-pound  of  granulated  sugar.  Cover  the  berries  wjth  the 
sugar,  and  let  them  stand  for  an  hour.  Put  berries  and  sugar 
over  the  fire  with  the  water,  bring  to  a  hard  boil,  then  can. 


Canned  blackberries 

Measure  your  berries  and  allow  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of 
sugar  to  each  quart  of  fruit.  Put  the  berries  on  alone,  and  bring 
slowly  to  the  boiling  point,  and  if  there  is  any  surplus  juice,  dip 
this  out  before  adding  the  sugar.  Boil  the  berries  and  sugar 
for  fifteen  minutes  and  can  quickly,  filling  each  can  to  overflow- 
ing. 

Canned  strawberries 

Weigh  the  berries,  and  to  every  pound  of  fruit  allow  a  quarter- 
pound  of  granulated  sugar.  Put  sugar  and  berries  in  an  earthen 
jar,  and  stand  for  an  hour.  Turn  into  a  preserving-kettle,  add  a 
pinch  of  alum,  and  simmer  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes.  Dip  out 
the  superfluous  juice.  Fill  the  jars  to  overflowing  with  the  fruit, 
and  seal  immediately. 

Canned  raspberries  (2) 
Follow  the  last  recipe  in  every  particular. 

Canned  gooseberries 

Make  a  syrup  with  one  pound  of  white  sugar  to  each  pound 
of  fruit,  stew  them  till  quite  clear  and  until  the  syrup  becomes 
thick,  but  do  not  let  them  be  mashed.  Do  not  cover  the  pan  while 
stewing. 

Canned  quinces 

Pare,  and  cut  into  quarters,  dropping  into  cold  water  as  you 
do  this,  to  preserve  the  color.  Weigh  the  fruit  and  allow  three- 


CANNED    GOODS  689 

fourths  as  much  sugar.  Cook  the  quinces  gently  in  boiling  water 
until  soft,  skim  out  the  fruit,  add  the  sugar  to  this  water,  skim  well 
and  boil  till  clear.  Return  the  quinces  to  the  syrup  till  heated 
through,  drain  and  put  into  jars.  Boil  the  syrup  ten  minutes 
longer,  strain  it  into  the  jars,  fill  to  overflowing,  and  seal  as  usual. 


CANNED   VEGETABLES 

Some  housewives  hold  that  when  canned  vegetables  may  be 
bought  for  the  low  price  at  which  they  now  stand,  it  is  mistaken 
economy  to  attempt  to  "put  up"  such  articles  at  home.  But  there 
are  two  sides  to  this  question.  In  the  first  place  there  are  small 
country  places  where  it  is  next  to  impossible  to  buy  many  kinds 
of  canned  vegetables,  and  the  dwellers  in  such  localities  must,  of 
necessity,  do  their  own  canning.  A  still  greater  consideration  is 
the  fact  that  vegetables  preserved  in  tin  cans  are  not  as  delicate 
in  flavor  as  those  put  up  in  glass.  Imported  peas,  beans,  etc., 
may  be  purchased  in  glass  jars,  but  these  are  so  expensive  as  to 
be  beyond  the  reach  of  the  economical  housewife.  Let  her  then, 
supply  herself  with  a  number  of  wide-mouthed  glass  jars  with 
properly  fitting  rubber  rings  and  tops,  and  she  may  snap  her  fin- 
gers at  importers  and  domestic  grocers. 

Tomatoes,  canned  whole  (No.  1) 

This  is  a  delicate  process,  but  the  result  amply  repays  one  for 
her  pains. 

Stew  small  tomatoes  tender  and  squeeze  from  them  every  drop 
of  juice.  Strain  this  juice  through  a  flannel  jelly-bag,  without 
squeezing  the  bag.  Season,  and  set  aside  until  needed.  With  a 
thin-bladed,  sharp  knife  remove  the  cores  from  the  center  of  large, 
firm,  smooth  tomatoes.  Lay  the  tomatoes,  side  by  side,  in  a  deep 
bake-pan,  and  pour  cold  water  around  them  until  it  covers  them 
entirely.  Set  in  a  moderate  oven  where  the  contents  will  heat 
gradually,  and  cover  closely.  When  the  water  begins  to  boil,  the 
pan  may  be  removed,  and  the  tomatoes  carefully  taken  up.  Put 
44 


690  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

them  very  gently  into  large-mouthed  quart  jars.  Bring  the 
strained  juice  to  a  boil,  skim  well,  fill  the  jars  to  overflowing  with 
this,  and  screw  on  the  tops. 

These  tomatoes  may  be  stuffed  and  baked  in  the  winter,  and 
will  be  found  to  be  as  fine  in  flavor  as  the  fresh  vegetables.  Tiny 
"egg  tomatoes"  may  be  canned  in  the  same  way,  without  removing 
the  cores,  and  form  a  dainty  garnish  for  such  dishes  as  beef  a  la 
jardiniere. 

Tomatoes,  canned  whole  (No.  2) 

Select  firm,  ripe  tomatoes ;  immerse  in  boiling  water  for  a  few 
minutes  and  slip  off  the  skins.  Have  ready  a  large  kettle  of  boiling 
water.  Into  this  put  enough  tomatoes  to  fill  just  one  jar.  It 
takes  about  six  tomatoes  to  fill  a  jar.  Cover  and  allow  them  to 
remain  eight  minutes.  Pack  into  a  hot  jar,  fill  up  with  boiling 
water  and  seal  at  once.  They  keep  well  and  taste  almost  like 
fresh  ones. 

Canned  stewed  tomatoes 

Scald  the  tomatoes  and  remove  the  skins,  laying  the  vegeta- 
bles in  a  colander,  that  the  juice  may  drip  away.  Put  into  a  por- 
celain-lined kettle  and  bring  to  a  boil.  Stew  for  fifteen  minutes, 
pour  off  any  superfluous  liquor,  season  with  salt,  and  pour  the 
tomatoes,  boiling-hot,  into  the  cans.  Seal  immediately. 

Canned  corn 

One  of  the  most  difficult  vegetables  to  can  is  sweet  corn,  and  I 
would  advise  the  housewife  not  to  run  the  risk  of  throwing  time 
and  labor  away  upon  the  attempt  to  preserve  this  vegetable.  I, 
myself,  have  observed  the  utmost  care  in  canning  corn,  only  to 
find,  after  the  lapse  of  a  few  weeks,  that  the  vegetable  had  begun 
to  ferment  and  was  uneatable.  It  may,  however,  be  safely  canned 
with  tomatoes,  and  thus  prepared,  makes  a  delicious  scallop  and 
a  pleasant  addition  to  vegetable  soups  and  to  stews. 


CANNED    GOODS  691 

Canned  corn  and  tomatoes 

Boil  two  dozen  ears  of  ripe  corn  until  the  kernels  are  tender. 
Remove  from  the  fire  and,  while  still  hot,  cut  the  corn  from  the 
cob  with  a  short  knife.  Peel  two  dozen  ripe  tomatoes,  and  chop 
into  small  bits.  Mix  the  corn  and  tomatoes  together,  salt  to  taste, 
and  put  over  the  fire  in  a  porcelain-lined  kettle.  Bring  to  a  hard 
boil,  cook  for  a  minute  and  pour  at  once  into  quart  jars.  Seal 
immediately. 

Potted  corn 

Boil  the  ears  of  corn  for  ten  minutes  after  the  boil  begins. 
Remove  from  the  water  and  cut  all  the  kernels  from  the  cobs. 
Put  a  layer  of  the  corn  in  the  bottom  of  a  jar,  and  cover  thickly 
with  a  layer  of  salt.  Put  in  another  stratum  of  corn,  then  more 
salt,  until  the  jar  is  full — having  the  top  layer  of  salt.  Pour  over 
all  melted  lard,  and  when  this  is  cool,  cover  closely  with  paraffin- 
paper  fitted  over  the  top  of  the  jar.  Keep  in  a  cool  room  until 
wanted.  This  corn  must  be  soaked  for  six  or  eight  hours  before 
using.  It  will  then  be  fresh  and  sweet. 


Canned  asparagus 

Into  an  asparagus  boiler  put  salted  water,  and  when  it  boils 
hard  lay  the  asparagus  in  it.  Boil  until  tender,  but  not  broken 
and  soft.  Lift  out  carefully,  stand  on  end  (with  the  tops  up)  in 
fruit- jars,  fill  the  jars  to  overflowing  with  the  boiling  water,  and 
seal  immediately.  Be  sure  that  tops  and  rubbers  are  in  good  con- 
dition, and  keep  this  delicate  vegetable  in  a  cool,  dark,  dry  place. 

Canned  beets  (fto.  1) 

Take  early  beets  that  have  grown  quickly,  cook  and  peel  as  for 
immediate  use,  slice  and  pack  in  fruit  jars.  Be  sure  that  rubbers 
and  tops  are  in  excellent  order.  Boil  good  cider  vinegar  that  is 
not  too  strong,  adding  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  and  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  sugar.  While  boiling,  pour  over  the  packed  beets  in  the 


692  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

jars,  fill  to  overflowing,  and  immediately  screw  down  the  tops 
tight.  Wrap  in  brown  paper  and  put  in  a  very  dark  place.  They 
keep  well,  and  are  superior  to  beets  bought  later  in  the  season. 


Canned  beets  (No.  2) 

Prepare  the  beets  as  for  immediate  use.  Leave  on  two  or 
three  inches  of  top  to  prevent  bleeding;  also  be  very  careful  not 
to  cut  or  break  the  skin.  Boil,  and  when  done  (which  should  be 
done  in  one-half  or  three-quarters  of  an  hour)  pour  off  the  hot 
water,  and  replace  with  cold.  Let  the  beets  cool  in  the  water,  so 
that  you  can  handle  them.  While  the  beets  are  cooling,  put  into 
an  agate  or  porcelain  kettle  enough  vinegar  for  the  quantity  that 
you  are  preparing.  Add  two  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar  to  a 
quart  of  the  vinegar,  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Slice  the  cool 
beets,  put  them  into  the  hot  vinegar,  let  them  remain  on  the  fire 
until  heated  through,  then  put  into  air-tight  jars. 

Canned  string  beans 

Remove  all  the  strings  from  both  sides  of  the  beans.  Cut  the 
beans  into  inch  lengths  and  cover  with  water.  Boil  until  tender, 
but  not  soft.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Take  the  beans  from 
the  pot  with  a  perforated  spoon,  and  put  them  in  jars  standing  in 
a  pan  of  hot  water.  Boil  up  and  skim  the  liquor  remaining  in  the 
kettle,  and  fill  the  jars  to  the  brims  with  this.  Seal  at  once. 

Canned  lima  beans 

Shell,  cook  for  fifteen  minutes  in  boiling  water  slightly  salted. 
Then  proceed  as  with  string  beans. 


"HANDY"  HOUSEHOLD  HINTS 


Southern  recipe  for  whitewash 

Boil  one  pound  of  rice  in  five  gallons  of  water  until  soft  and 
broken.  Strain  and  rub  the  rice  through  a  colander  back  into 
the  water,  and  while  it  is  still  boiling  stir  into  it  one  peck  of  best 
lime,  with  a  pound  of  salt.  Boil  up  once  and  apply  hot. 

It  makes  a  glossy  and  durable  covering  for  wood  and  walls. 


How  to  clean  kid  gloves 

Lay  them  upon  a  folded  towel  and  pull  straight.  Have  ready 
several  pieces  of  fine,  soft  old  flannel.  Dip  one  in  skim-milk,  rub 
upon  sweet  soap — or  old  castile — and  wash  the  gloves,  working 
toward  the  finger-tips.  As  soon  as  the  flannel  becomes  soiled, 
throw  it  into  warm  water  and  soak,  and  take  a  clean  bit.  Go  all 
over  both  sides  of  each  glove  in  this  way  until  the  flannel  brings 
away  no  more  dirt.  Wash  off  with  clean  flannel  wrung  out  in  the 
milk  with  no  soap.  Lay  between  the  folds  of  a  clean  towel  and 
leave  until  next  day.  The  gloves  will  look  unsightly  enough,  but 
put  them  on  your  hands  and  they  will  resume  their  original  color, 
and,  if  the  work  has  been  done  well,  will  look  almost  like  new. 

A  rose  jar  (potpourri) 

Gather  rose  petals  when  the  roses  are  in  their  richest  bloom, 
but  not  when  the  dew  is  on  them,  and  pack  in  a  jar  in  layers  two 
inches  deep,  sprinkling  about  two  tablespoonfuls  of  fine,  dry  salt 
upon  each  layer.  Continue  this  until  the  jar  is  full,  adding  fresh 
petals  and  salt  daily.  Keep  in  a  dark,  dry  cool  place.  A  week 

693 


• 


•694  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

after  the  last  relay  is  gathered  turn  out  the  salted  petals  upon  a 
broad  platter,  mix  and  toss  together  until  the  mass  is  loosened. 
Then  incorporate  thoroughly  with  the  formula  given  below ;  pack 
in  a  clean  jar,  cover  lightly  and  set  away  to  "ripen."  It  will  be 
ready  for  rose  jars,  etc.,  in  a  fortnight,  and,  if  kept  covered,  will 
be  good  and  fragrant  for  twenty  years. 

Formula — Violet  powder,  one-half  ounce ;  orris  root,  one  ounce ; 
rose  powder,  one-half  ounce ;  heliotrope  powder,  one-half  ounce ; 
mace,  one-half  teaspoonful ;  cinnamon,  one-quarter  teaspoonful ; 
cloves,  one-half  teaspoonful ;  oil  of  roses,  four  drops ;  oil  chiris, 
ten  drops;  oil  melissne,  twenty  drops;  oil  eucalyptus,  twenty 
drops ;  bergamot,  ten  drops ;  alcohol,  two  drachms. 


A  rose  pillow 

If  you  wish  to  fill  a  pillow  with  rose  leaves  alone,  spread  the 
petals  in  the  shade,  but  on  a  sunny  day,  and  dry  thoroughly  before 
stuffing  the  pillow.  Then  scatter  a  tablespoonful  of  powdered 
orris  root  among  them,  and  sprinkle  with  ten  drops  of  real  attar  of 
roses.  The  inferior  qualities  will  not  hold  the  fragrance.  Make 
the  inner  cover  of  glazed  cambric,  the  outer  of  silk  or  satin,  deco- 
rated to  suit  your  fancy. 

Heat  marks  on  tables 

Hot  plates  frequently  disfigure  tables  by  leaving  on  them  a 
cloudy,  white  stain.  This  could  be  avoided  if  a  mat  were  always 
placed  between  the  hot  plate  and  the  table.  The  same  with  hot 
water  jugs,  etc.  To  remove  the  heat  stains  rub  on  a  few  drops 
of  sweet  oil,  and  afterwards  polish  with  spirits  of  wine  and  a  soft 
cloth. 

Or  hold  a  hot  iron  a  few  inches  above  the  spot  until  the  wood 
regains  color.  Polish  with  a  cloth  wrung  out  in  kerosene. 

If  the  spot  be  small,  surround  it  with  a  muffin-ring,  and  let 
the  hot  iron  rest  on  it  a  moment.  It  will  confine  the  heat  and  rest 
the  hand. 


"HANDY"   HOUSEHOLD    HINTS  695 


Match  marks 

Marks  that  have  been  made  on  paint  with  matches  can  be  re- 
moved by  rubbing  first,  with  a  slice  of  lemon,  then  with  whiting, 
and  washing  with  soap  and  water. 


Library  paste 

Wet  up  a  cupful  of  best  flour  with  cold  water  until  you  can  stir 
it  easily ;  have  on  the  fire  a  generous  pint  of  boiling  water  and  add 
the  flour  paste,  spoonful  by  spoonful,  to  it,  stirring  all  the  time. 
Should  it  thicken  too  much,  add  more  boiling  water.  Cook  thus 
for  ten  minutes.  Take  it  off  and  beat  in  a  teaspoonful  of  carbolic 
acid.  When  cold  put  it  into  a  wide-mouthed  bottle,  through  the 
cork  of  which  a  paste  brush  is  thrust.  If  you  dislike  the  odor  of 
carbolic  acid,  use  salicylic  acid  in  the  same  quantity,  and  add  ten 
drops  of  oil  of  cinnamon. 

To  remove  the  high-water  mark  from  porcelain  wash-bowls  and 

bath-tubs 

Wet  a  flannel  cloth  with  kerosene  oil  and  thoroughly  rub  the 
tub;  wash  with  scalding  water,  pouring  some  washing-soda  dis- 
solved therein;  dry  thoroughly,  and  the  tub  will  have  a  beautiful 
polish. 

TO    "TENDER"    TOUGH   MEAT 

Beefsteak 

Hang  it  as  long  as  it  can  be  left  with  safety,  washing  over 
with  vinegar  every  day.  Take  it  down  then,  wipe  with  a  clean, 
dry  cloth,  lay  upon  a  dish  and  pour  over  it  four  or  five  spoonfuls 
of  salad  oil  and  the  juice  of  a  large  lemon.  Set  in  a  cold  place  for 
several  hours,  turn  it  over  and  over,  that  it  may  soak  up  every 
drop  of  oil  and  lemon,  and  leave  it  for  some  hours  longer.  If  it 
is  for  breakfast,  do  this  over  night.  If  for  supper  or  a  late  dinner, 


696  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

begin  the  preparation  in  the  early  morning.    Ten  or  twelve  hours 
are  better  than  four  or  five. 

When  you  are  ready  to  cook  the  steak,  hold  it  up  for  a  minute 
to  let  the  surplus  oil  drip  from  it,  but  do  not  wipe  it.  It  will  be 
more  juicy  for  the  oil  bath.  Broil  quickly  over  clear  coals,  turning 
several  times. 

A  tough  roasting  piece 

Hang  it  in  a  cool  cellar  or  meat  safe  up  to  the  last  point  of  pru- 
dence, washing  it  every  day  with  vinegar.  If  you  suspect  a 
"high"  odor,  wash  it  with  soda  and  water,  rubbing  every  part  of 
it  with  a  clean  whisk  or  brush ;  then  go  all  over  it  with  vinegar 
or  lemon  juice  before  setting  it  down  to  roast.  Baste  frequently. 


SOME  USEFUL  THINGS  WE  THROW  AWAY 

Bread  dust 

Two  or  three  times  a  week  spread  the  accumulated  scraps  upon 
a  tin  plate,  or  in  a  baking-pan,  and  set  in  a  moderate  oven  until 
perfectly  dry.  Soft  or  "soggy"  bits  are  good  for  nothing  and  in- 
terfere with  the  work.  If,  by  chance  or  intention,  the  bread  is 
slightly  browned,  keep  it  apart  from  that  which  remains  white. 
A  glass  jar  for  each  kind  is  a  good  idea. 

While  the  dried  bits  are  still  warm,  lay  upon  a  kneading-board 
and  crush  to  powder  with  the  rolling-pin.  Do  this  thoroughly 
for  the  "dust,"  leaving  no  gritty  particles.  Keep  in  a  closed  jar 
in  a  dry  place.  It  is  invaluable  for  breading  croquettes,  fried 
fish,  chops,  etc.  Roll  the  article  to  be  breaded,  first  in  beaten  egg, 
then  in  the  bread  dust,  to  which  have  been  added  a  little  salt  and 
pepper. 

Dripping 

Save  fat  odds  and  ends  of  cooked  meats,  and  skim  every  particle 
of  the  congealed  grease  from  the  top  of  gravies,  soups  and  the 
liquor  in  which  ham  and  other  large  pieces  of  meat  are  boiled. 


"HANDY"    HOUSEHOLD    HINTS  697 

Bring  slowly  to  a  gentle  simmer  over  the  fire,  and  strain,  with- 
out rubbing,  through  a  fine  soup-sieve,  or  a  bit  of  mosquito-netting. 
When  firm  it  is  better  for  frying  than  any  fat  you  can  buy,  unless 
it  be  pure  cottolene. 

Mutton  and  lamb  fat 

Must  be  excluded  from  the  "trying-out"  pan.  At  its  purest 
state  it  gives  an  unpleasant  taste  to  anything  cooked  in  it.  Melt 
it  in  a  saucepan ;  when  hot,  add  a  little  boiling  water  with  a  pinch 
of  salt  to  cause  the  dregs  to  settle ;  heat  five  minutes  without  boil- 
ing, strain,  but  do  not  stir  or  squeeze,  into  small  molds,  such  as 
egg-cups.  When  hard  you  will  have  a  better  cosmetic  than  cold 
cream  and  an  invaluable  salve  for  chapped  hands  and  lips. 

Broken  crackers 

Spread  upon  a  flat  platter  and  leave  in  a  moderate  oven  until 
dried,  but  not  colored.  Let  them  cool  in  a  dry  place ;  crush  fine 
with  the  rolling-pin  and  keep  in  a  glass  jar  for  breading  chops, 
croquettes,  etc.,  and  for  scalloping  oysters,  meat  and  other  of  the 
many  made  dishes  that  add  character  and  variety  to  every-day  fare. 

Bones  of  cooked  meat 

Not  those  left  on  the  plates  after  meals.  They  are  the  lawful 
perquisites  of  fowls  and  dogs.  Bones  cleaned  by  the  carver,  or 
the  wise  housemother,  in  the  preparation  of  minces  and  stews  and 
salads,  should  be  laid  in  a  spare  dish,  cracked  through,  while 
fresh,  and  put  over  the  fire  with  a  quart  of  cold  water  for  every 
pound  of  bones,  a  carrot,  a  turnip,  two  tomatoes,  an  onion,  a  stalk 
or  so  of  celery,  all  cut  into  dice,  and  boiled  slowly  until  reduced  to 
half  the  original  quantity  of  liquid.  Cool  in  the  pot,  skim  and 
strain,  and  you  have  a  tolerable  "stock,"  useful  for  a  great  number 
of  dishes. 

Rice  water 

Always  boil  rice  in  plenty  of  water.  When  the  grains  are  soft, 
but  not  broken,  drain  in  a  colander  over  a  bowl,  and  not  into  the 


698  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

sink.  Rice  water  contains  more  nourishment  than  the  cooked 
cereal  itself.  Set  aside  for  some  hours  and  you  have  a  jelly  which 
will  add  value  to  your  soup  stock,  or  may  be  boiled  down  still 
further,  sweetened  slightly  and  flavored  with  rose-water  or  vanilla ; 
lastly,  left  in  the  ice  or  in  cold  place  to  form  in  a  mold.  Eaten 
with  sugar  and  cream,  it  is  a  pleasant  dessert.  Beaten  into  a  plain 
custard  it  is  even  better.  It  can  also  be  used  for  thickening  white 
sauces  or  gravies. 

Testing  a  broom 

When  buying  a  broom  test  it  by  pressing  the  edge  against  the 
floor.  If  the  straws  bristle  out  and  bend,  the  broom  is  a  poor 
one.  They  should  remain  in  a  solid,  firm  mass. 

To  clean  brass 

Clean  it  with  pulverized  pumice-stone,  wet  with  household 
ammonia,  applying  this  paste  first,  and  polishing  the  brass  when 
this  has  dried,  using  for  this  purpose  chamois  skin. 

Wring  out  a  flannel  cloth  in  kerosene,  rub  upon  Putz-Pomade, 
clean  the  brasses  and  polish  with  old  linen. 

To  clean  a  white  fur  rug 

First,  beat  out  all  the  dust  and  hang  in  the  wind  for  some  hours. 
Then  lay  it  on  the  floor  of  a  room  you  seldom  use  and  fill  it  with 
dried  flour.  Rub  it  into  the  rug  as  you  would  suds,  rubbing  be- 
tween your  hands,  and  working  with  your  fingers  down  to  the 
roots  of  the  fur.  Cover  with  a  clean  cloth  and  leave  all  night  with 
the  flour  in  it.  Next  day  take  out  of  doors,  shake  out  the  flour, 
hang  on  a  line  and  whip  on  the  wrong  side  until  every  particle  of 
flour  is  dislodged. 

Powdered  chalk  may  be  used  instead  of  the  flour,  but  if  any  is 
left  in  the  rug  the  alkali  may  injure  the  fur. 

A  few  things  kerosene  will  do 

For  ants,  saturate  rags  with  kerosene,  and  hang,  or  lay  these 
near  their  runs,  and  they  will  quickly  disappear. 


"HANDY"    HOUSEHOLD    HINTS  699 

Kerosene  is  a  household  necessity  at  cleaning-time.  For  clean- 
ing painted  and  varnished  woodwork,  painted  walls,  varnished 
floors,  bathtubs  and  marble  washstands  it  is  unsurpassed.  For 
tubs  and  marble,  apply  with  a  woolen  cloth,  then  wash  with  soap 
and  water.  For  woodwork  and  walls  use  clean  cloths,  changing 
as  soon  as  soiled.  A  few  drops  in  the  water  when  washing  win- 
dows and  mirrors  will  give  them  a  beautiful  polish. 

To  clean  white  silk 

If  one  desires  snowy  whiteness,  silk  should  never  be  allowed  to 
become  badly  soiled;  that  is,  so  that  the  silk  is  yellowed.  Dust 
the  garment  and  wash  in  rather  warm  (not  scalding  hot)  water 
with  Ivory  soap.  Rinse  well,  the  last  water  being  quite  blue. 
Hang  up  and  allow  to  get  just  dry  enough  to  press  nicely  with  a 
warm  iron.  If  this  is  followed  out,  I  know  that  white  silk  will 
stay  white.  Care  must  be  taken  with  the  blue  water  not  to  have  it 
too  blue,  and  yet  blue  enough  to  help  the  silk  retain  the  "new" 
shade. 

Should  silk  merely  need  sponging  no  iron  should  touch  the  sur- 
face. If  rolled  while  damp  on  a  broomstick,  it  will  dry  in  a  day 
or  so.  When  there  are  grease  spots,  apply  the  time-honored  rem- 
edy, powdered  magnesia,  to  the  wrong  side  under  a  cold  pressure ; 
then,  after  some  hours,  rub  off,  and  if  not  wholly  cleansed,  apply 
again. 

To  clean  yellow  lace 

If  you  desire  to  keep  the  lace  yellow,  pour  enough  gasoline  into 
an  earthen  crock  to  cover  the  lace,  shake  it  about  in  the  liquid, 
rubbing  soiled  spots  gently  between  your  hands ;  immerse  it  fully 
in  the  liquid,  cover  the  crock  and  leave  the  lace  in  the  gasoline  for 
five  or  six  hours.  Squeeze  and  shake  it  then,  and  leave  it  in  the 
open  air.  When  quite  dry  lay  it  on  a  clean  cloth,  spread  over  a 
board  or  table,  and  dampen  slightly.  Pull  into  shape  with  your 
fingers  while  it  is  damp.  If  the  lace  be  wide,  baste  it  to  a  thick, 
dampened  cloth,  setting  a  stitch  in  every  scallop  and  figure.  Cover 
with  a  thin,  damp  cloth,  and  press  with  a  warm  iron. 


;oo  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

To  clean  Battenberg  embroidery 

First  make  a  suds  of  warm  water  (not  hot)  with  a  bland,  white 
soap ;  wash  the  pieces,  and  if  very  much  soiled,  rub  a  little  soap 
on  the  Battenberg  on  the  wrong  side,  then  rinse  thoroughly,  but 
do  not  blue.  Wring  out,  put  between  two  folds  of  soft  cloth 
and  pat  with  the  hands.  Hang  in  a  shady  place  for  a  while  to 
take  most  of  the  moisture  out. 

Spread  a  sheet  on  the  floor  and  take  your  pieces,  one  at  a  time. 
First,  pin  the  linen  from  the  corners,  as  you  would  a  curtain, 
where  the  Battenberg  joins  the  linen.  When  you  have  the  linen 
perfectly  smooth,  begin  on  lace,  and  pull  out  well  so  as  to  get  the 
same  shape  as  when  new ;  put  plenty  of  pins  in,  so  that  the  edges 
will  be  well  shaped.  This  will  take  you  a  little  longer  than  if 
ironed,  but  the  iron  takes  all  color  out  of  embroidery,  and  it 
never  does  Battenberg  well.  When  you  have  your  piece  all  pinned 
down,  take  your  fingers  and  smooth  down  the  flowers  while  wet ; 
they  will  look  like  new. 

To  clean  black  lace 

If  it  be  real  lace  you  can  treat  it  at  home  with  reasonable  hope 
of  success. 

Boil  a  black  kid  glove  in  a  quart  of  water  until  you  have  reduced 
the  liquid  by  one-third.  Squeeze  the  glove  and  throw  it  away. 
When  you  can  bear  your  hand  comfortably  in  the  water  dip  and 
shake  the  lace  in  it  up  and  down  a  dozen  times.  Shake  off  the 
wet  and  squeeze  the  laces  in  a  soft  towel.  Do  not  wring  it.  While 
wet,  begin  to  pull  the  lace  straight  with  the  tips  of  your  fingers, 
getting  every  mesh  and  bit  of  the  edge  into  the  right  shape.  It 
must  be  in  order  and  still  damp  when  laid  upon  the  ironing-cloth. 
Spread  a  piece  of  old  cambric  or  linen,  or,  better  still,  a  piece  of 
clean  tissue  paper  over  it,  and  iron  on  the  right  side ;  then,  and 
harder,  on  the  wrong,  to  bring  out  the  pattern. 

Hang  in  the  sun  or  in  any  hot,  dry  place  to  dry  quickly.  Roll 
upon  a  card  or  a  thin  board  to  preserve  the  smoothness. 


"HANDY"    HOUSEHOLD    HINTS  701 

To  dry-clean  white  lace 

Wash  in  flour.  Rub  the  flour  in  as  you  would  soap;  let  the 
lace  lie  for  some  time  and  then  shake  it  out.  If  it  be  not  quite 
clean,  repeat  the  process,  which  will  make  it  look  like  new. 

To  get  rid  of  bed-bugs 

To  get  rid  of  "red  rovers"  (or  bed-bugs)  simply  apply  a  good, 
thick  coat  of  varnish  to  all  lurking  places. 

OR 

Get  a  clean  oil-can,  fill  it  with  gasoline  and  inject  into  all  cracks 
and  crannies  where  they  can  possibly  hide.  Shut  the  room  up  for 
some  hours  to  give  the  gasoline  a  fair  chance  to  do  its  work. 

To  get  rid  of  rats  and  mice 

Smear  the  entrance  of  their  holes  with  liquid  tar,  and  spray  the 
holes  as  far  as  a  bellows  will  carry  it  with  powdered,  unslaked 
lime ; 

OR 

After  the  holes  are  located,  fill  them  deeply  with  absorbent 
cotton;  moisten  with  formaldehyde;  the  holes  are  then  quickly 
cemented  with  plaster  of  paris.  Then  let  the  neighbors  do  the 
worrying. 

For  mange  in  cats 

Mix  vaseline  with  a  drop  of  two  or  diluted  carbolic  acid,  as 
put  up  in  the  drug  stores  as  an  antiseptic  and  healing  salve.  A 
very  little  placed  on  the  affected  part  and  a  clean  linen  rag  tied 
around  it  will  heal  the  skin  and  cause  a  new  growth  of  fur. 

To  draw  thread  in  linen 

To  draw  thread  for  hem-stitching  make  a  good  lather  of  soap 
and  water,  and  brush  this  over  the  linen  where  threads  are  to  be 


702  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

drawn,  using  a  shaving  or  other  soft  brush.     Let  it  dry,  and  they 
will  pull  quite  easily. 

To  clean  decanters 

Never  use  shot,  for  there  is  danger  of  its  causing  lead  poison- 
ing. Instead,  try  the  effect  of  a  little  soapy  water  and  some  fine 
sand.  Shake  the  decanter  till  the  glass  is  clean  and  then  rinse  with 
fresh  water,  finally  with  alcohol. 

To  clean  hardwood  furniture 

Make  a  solution  of  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  sal  soda  to 
a  quart  of  warm  water,  put  it  on  with  a  tooth-brush  well  soaped, 
the  place  being  immediately  rinsed  with  cold  water  and  dried  with 
a  soft  cloth. 

Afterward  the  wood  should  be  rubbed  with  a  mixture  of  two- 
thirds  raw  oil  and  one-third  turpentine  with  a  little  salt. 

The  secret  of  success  lies  in  cleaning  only  a  small  piece  at  a 
time  and  in  doing  the  work  rapidly. 

Cement  for  lining  an  aquarium 

Take  white  lead,  such  as  you  buy  in  a  keg,  thicken  with  as  little 
of  the  oil  as  possible,  and  mix  some  dry  red  lead  with  it.  Put  in 
just  enough  burnt  umber  to  make  it  the  color  of  black  walnut, 
a  little  Japan  drier  and  a  very  little  varnish.  Paint  the  edges  of  the 
glass  and  let  it  dry,  or  this  will  not  stick.  After  cementing  the 
aquarium,  let  it  stand  two  weeks  to  harden  before  putting  water 
in  it. 

Washing  fluid  for  removing  stains 

You  can  take  all  the  red  laundry  marks  out  of  a  linen  by  using 
the  following  washing  fluid.  It  will  also  take  rust,  ink  and  mil- 
dew out  without  leaving  a  trace : 

Five  pounds  washing-soda,  one  gallon  of  cold  water,  put  to  a 
boil.  While  boiling  add  one  pound  of  chloride  of  lime  and  stir 
well ;  set  aside  to  settle ;  strain  through  a  cloth  and  cork  up  in  a 


"HANDY"    HOUSEHOLD    HINTS  703 

jug.  Put  your  soiled  clothes  in  ten  quarts  of  water,  or  enough 
to  cover  them,  with  two  handfuls  of  chipped  soap  and  one  pint 
of  the  jugged  fluid.  Let  them  boil,  raising  them  up  once  in  a 
while  with  the  clothes-stick.  If  the  marks  do  not  disappear,  add 
a  little  more  of  the  fluid,  but  not  too  much,  or  it  will  eat  .into  the 
clothes. 

To  kill  an  evil  odor 

Dried  orange-peel,  allowed  to  smolder  on  a  piece  of  red-hot 
iron,  or  on  an  old  shovel,  will  kill  any  bad  odor  in  a  room  and 
leave  a  fragrant  one  behind. 

To  clean  oil  paintings 

Cut  a  raw  potato  in  half,  rub  quickly  over  the  surface  of  an  oil 
painting,  after  which  polish  with  a  silk  handkerchief  to  remove 
dust  or  dirt. 

To  keep  leather  from  cracking 

Add  a  drop  or  two  of  neat's- foot  oil  to  the  shoe-blacking  to 
prevent  the  leather  from  cracking.  It  is  also  fine  to  use  on  damp 
boots  or  shoes. 

How  to  keep  palms 

If  you  want  your  palms  to  thrive  in  an  ordinary  sitting-room, 
sponge  the  leaves  once  a  week  with  lukewarm  water,  to  which 
a  little  milk  has  been  added.  Then  stand  the  plant  for  two  hours 
in  lukewarm  water  deep  enough  to  completely  cover  the  pot.  This 
is  the  proper  way  to  water  palms. 

One  way  to  remove  iron  rust 

One  method  of  taking  iron  mold  out  of  linen  is  to  hold  the  spots 
over  a  pitcher  of  boiling  water  and  rub  them  with  the  juice  of 
sorrel  and  salt,  and  then,  when  the  cloth  is  thoroughly  wet,  to  dip 
it  quickly  in  lye  and  wash  at  once. 


704  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

To  clean  a  light  cloth  gown 

Lay  the  gown  on  a  table,  spread  out  smoothly  and  cover  with 
powdered  fuller's  earth  shaken  through  a  sieve.  Hang,  without 
shaking,  in  a  dark  closet  for  twenty-four  hours;  then  shake  and 
brush  in  the  open  air. 

To  get  rid  of  plant-lice 

Put  the  plants  into  a  closet  from  which  you  have  cleared  every- 
thing else,  and  set  on  the  floor  a  pan  containing  refuse  broken 
tobacco.  Light  the  tobacco,  and  shut  the  closet  up  for  five  or  six 
hours.  Soak  the  earth  in  the  pots  with  tobacco  tea,  made  by  pour- 
ing boiling  water  upon  the  tobacco  stems  and  letting  it  cool.  You 
can  brush  up  the  tiny  insects  by  the  hundred.  To  make  sure  they 
will  not  come  to  life,  burn  all  you  sweep  up. 

To  take  dry  ink  out  of  a  carpet 

Rub  into  the  spot  as  much  thick  buttermilk,  made  into  a  paste 
with  table  salt,  as  the  place  will  hold.  This  may  tone  down  the 
inkiness.  Cover  the  wet  paste  with  paper  to  exclude  light  and 
dust,  and  leave  it  alone  for  six  hours.  Wash,  then,  with  house- 
hold ammonia  and  warm  water ;  rub  dry,  and  make  a  second  appli- 
cation of  salt  and  buttermilk,  covering  as  before. 

To  get  rid  of  the  smell  of  paint 

To  remove  the  smell  of  paint  from  a  room  leave  in  it  over  night 
a  pail  of  water  with  three  or  four  sliced  raw  onions  in  it.  Shut 
the  door,  and  in  the  morning  the  paint  smell  will  have  gone,  the 
onions  and  water  absorbing  it. 

To  clean  gold  thread 

Tarnished  gold  embroidery  may  be  cleansed  by  dipping  a  brush 
in  pulverized  burnt  alum,  then  brushing  the  embroidery  thor- 
oughly. 


'HANDY"    HOUSEHOLD    HINTS  705 


To  polish  patent  leather 

To  polish  patent  leather  remove  every  particle  of  dust,  and 
apply  a  mixture  of  one  part  linseed  oil  to  two  parts  cream.  It 
should  be  well  mixed  and  applied  with  a  flannel.  Rub  the  leather 
well  with  a  soft,  dry  cloth. 


To  clean  linoleum 

If  the  linoleum  be  wiped  first  with  a  cloth  dipped  in  warm 
water,  and  wrung  as  dry  as  possible,  then  wiped  over  with  skimmed 
milk  once  a  week,  the  colors  will  be  lightened,  and  the  varnish, 
which  protects  the  colors,  will  be  longer  preserved.  Soften  ob- 
stinate spots  with  a  little  linseed  oil.  If  the  whole  floor  is  treated 
once  a  month  with  linseed  oil,  using  as  little  as  possible,  and  rub- 
bing all  superfluous  oil  off,  it  will  wear  longer  and  the  color  will 
be  brighter.  If  the  varnish  is  entirely  removed  in  any  part,  a 
mixture  of  one  part  lac  varnish  and  three  parts  oil  will  restore  it. 

To  renew  cane-seat  chairs 

Cane  chair  seats  that  have  sagged  may  be  tightened  by  washing 
in  hot  soapsuds  and  leaving  to  dry  in  the  open  air. 

How  to  keep  patent-leather  shoes 

% 

Put  them  on,  and  as  soon  as  they  are  warmed  by  the  natural 
heat  of  the  foot,  rub  with  the  palm  of  the  hand  until  you  are  sensi- 
ble that  the  moisture  of  the  skin  is  lubricating  the  leather.  Five 
minutes  spent  in  this  way  whenever  you  wear  the  shoes  will 
keep  them  in  goo*d  order.  About  once  a  week  put  three  drops  of 
neat's-foot  oil  into  your  hand,  hold  it  until  blood-warm,  and  rub 
it  thoroughly  into  the  leather.  Cold  weather  induces  cracking 
in  patent  leather.  Gentle  warmth  prevents  it. 


45 


;o6  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

To  clean  russet  shoes 

Russet  shoes  may  be  kept  clean  and  bright  by  rubbing  them  with 
a  slice  of  banana  and  polishing  with  a  cloth. 

To  clean  black  cloth 

Use  warm  water  and  alcohol  in  the  proportion  of  about  one  or 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  alcohol  to  a  pint  of  water;  goods  sponged 
with  it  and  pressed  will  look  like  new.  Alcohol  is  not  harmful 
to  any  goods,  but  ammonia  will  leave  certain  colors  streaked  un- 
less evenly  distributed.  Alcohol  is  excellent  for  cleaning  and 
brightening  jet  trimming. 

To  remove  grease  spots  from  cloth 

Get  at  the  back  of  the  spots ;  i.  e.,  the  wrong  side  of  the  stuff, 
and  rub  into  each  spot  as  much  powdered  French  chalk  as  it  will 
hold.  Leave  it  all  night.  Then  lay  soft  blotting  or  tissue  paper 
over  the  chalk  and  press  with  a  warm  iron,  changing  the  paper  as 
the  grease  "draws"  through.  Brush  out  the  chalk,  and  the  spot 
should  have  disappeared,  unless  a  trace  remains  on  the  right  side 
of  something,  which  is  not  grease,  but  adherent  dust.  Sponge 
this  with  household  ammonia. 

To  take  out  mildew 

Make  a  thick  paste  of  table  salt  and  buttermilk,  and  cover  the 
mildew  with  it.  Lay  in  the  hot  sun  for  a  day,  renewing  the  paste 
at  the  end  of  four  hours.  If  obstinate,  repeat  next  day.  Should 
a  trace  of  the  stain  remain,  cyanide  of  potassium  will  eradicate 
it.  Moisten  the  spot  with  water,  rub  in  the  powder  and  lay  in  the 
sun  for  four  hours,  moistening  the  place  twice  in  this  time.  Then 
wash  at  once  with  pure  water.  You  can  get  the  cyanide  of  potas- 
sium from  the  drug  store.  It  is  a  deadly  poison,  if  taken  in- 
ternally. 


"HANDY"    HOUSEHOLD    HINTS  707 

How  to  dry-clean  a  lace  curtain 

Pin  a  sheet  snugly  to  the  carpet,  and  pin  the  curtain  smoothly 
to  the  sheet.  Go  all  over  it  with  flour  you  have  dried  in  the  oven, 
rubbing  it  into  the  lace  with  what  is  known  as  a  "complexion 
brush"  until  the  whole  surface  is  coated  and  the  curtain  will  hold 
no  more.  Throw  a  sheet  over  all  and  leave  for  twenty-four 
hours.  At  the  end  of  this  time  unpin  the  curtain,  lift  carefully, 
shake  out  the  flour  and  hang  in  the  outer  air  and  sunshine  (the 
day  must  be  dry)  to  let  the  flour  blow  out  of  it.  Lastly,  lay  it  upon 
the  ironing-table,  wrong  side  up,  cover  with  clean  cheese-cloth, 
or  thin  muslin  slightly  dampened,  and  press  firmly  with  a  warm, 
not  a  hot,  iron. 

Powdered  starch  may  be  used  instead  of  flour.  Curtains  treated 
carefully  in  this  way  will  look  almost  as  fresh  as  when  new. 

A  trio  of  useful  hints 

Perfumed  olive  oil  sprinkled  on  library  shelves  will  prevent 
mold  on  books. 

Mud  stains  can  be  removed  from  black  cloth  by  rubbing  them 
with  a  raw  potato. 

The  juice  of  a  raw  onion  applied  to  the  sting  of  an  insect  will 
remove  the  poison. 

How  to  add  to  one's  stature 

If  you  will  take  simple  stretching  exercises  two  or  three  times 
a  day  for  a  year  your  height  will  increase.  Rising  on  toes  and 
stretching  the  tips  of  the  fingers  as  far  toward  the  ceiling  as  they 
will  go,  and  sweeping  hands  over  front,  touching  tips  of  fingers 
or  palm  of  hand  to  floor,  keeping  both  knees  straight,  are  excel- 
lent exercises  if  one  would  grow. 

A  skin  tonic 

A  bag  made  of  cheese-cloth,  doubled  and  filled  with  bran,  a 
teaspoonful  of  orris  root  and  a  half  cake  of  Castile  soap,  chopped 


;o8  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

fine,  makes  an  excellent  skin  tonic  for  the  bath.     After  using  it 
for  several  weeks  the  skin  will  be  smooth,  firm  and  white. 

How  to  care  for  the  hands 

When  the  hands  are  stained  by  fruit  or  vegetables,  remove  the 
stains  before  the  hands  come  in  contact  with  soap  or  soapy  water. 
Remove  the  stains  with  an  acid,  such  as  lemon,  vinegar  or  sour 
milk,  then  wash  in  clear  water. 

When  using  soap  and  water  for  any  purpose,  rinse  off  all  the 
soap  before  wiping  the  hands.  Always  wipe  the  hands  perfectly 
dry.  Do  not  change  soaps  if  you  can  avoid  it,  and  always  use  a 
good  soap. 

To  soften  and  whiten  the  hands 

Use  some  sort  of  cream  on  them  at  night,  then  powder  them 
and  put  them  in  loose  gloves  kept  for  this  purpose. 

Habitual  use  of  Holmes'  Fragrant  Frostilla  will  keep  the  hands 
smooth,  white,  and  prevent  chapping  in  the  winter. 

To  keep  piano  keys  clean  and  white 

Dampen  a  piece  of  muslin  with  alcohol,  and  with  it  rub  the 
keys.  If  this  does  not  remove  the  stains,  use  a  piece  of  cotton 
flannel  wet  with  cologne  water.  The  keys  can  also  be  bleached 
white  by  laying  over  the  keys  cotton  flannel  cloths  that  have 
been  saturated  with  a  solution  of  oxalic  acid. 

A  washing  compound 

Shave  a  pound  bar  of  good,  common  laundry  soap ;  put  it  into 
a  kettle  holding  about  six  or  eight  quarts.  Add  two  quarts  of 
water  to  the  soap,  and  boil  until  all  of  it  is  dissolved.  Take  it  to 
the  dooryard,  or  on  the  porch  outside  of  the  house  in  the  open 
air,  and  add  one-half  pint  of  gasoline  before  the  soap  cools  off. 
It  will  immediately  foam  and  boil  up  until  the  kettle  is  full.  Let 
it  stand  until  it  has  cooled  off  somewhat. 

The  clothes  should  be  soaked  first  in  lukewarm  water,  or  even 


"HANDY"    HOUSEHOLD    HINTS  709 

cold  water,  wrung  out  and  put  into  suds  made  of  this  compound 
and  quite  hot  water,  then  rubbed  as  usual;  or  it  can  be  used  in 
the  washing-machine.  Some  may  also  be  put  in  the  boiler  with- 
out the  least  danger. 

It  softens  the  water  and  loosens  dirt,  and  the  clothes  keep  white. 
It  does  not  injure  colored  goods  any  more  than  the  laundry  soap 
by  itself  would. 

As  usual,  in  using  gasoline,  be  sure  to  take  proper  precautions 
about  mixing  it  anywhere  near  fire. 

Starch  for  black  lawns,  etc. 

Boil  two  quarts  of  wheat  bran  in  six  quarts  of  water  for  half 
an  hour.  Let  it  get  cold,  then  strain.  You  will  need  neither  soap 
nor  starch  if  you  use  this.  If  thick,  add  cold  water.  This  prepa- 
ration will  both  cleanse  and  stiffen. 

Whitewash  that  will  not  rub  off 

Dissolve  glue  in  hot  water  and  add  in  the  proportion  of  a  pint 
of  this  water  to  four  gallons  of  whitewash ;  or  dissolve  an  ounce 
of  gum  arabic  in  a  pint  of  boiling  water  and  stir  in,  observing  the 
same  proportions.  Before  applying  this  or  any  other  wash,  scrape 
the  wall  clean  and  smooth.  Do  not  leave  any  of  the  old  on. 

How  to  clean  a  straw  hat 

Go  all  over  it  with  damp  corn-meal,  rubbing  it  in  well.  Next 
apply  dry  meal,  work  thoroughly  into  the  straw  and  leave  it  on 
for  some  hours.  Brush  out  the  meal  and  wash  freely  with  per- 
oxide of  hydrogen.  Let  it  dry  in  the  shade. 

The  care  of  hardwood  floors 

The  daily  care  of  the  hardwood  floor  is  very  simple.  A  room 
that  is  much  used  must  first  be  swept  with  a  soft-haired  brush, 
then  wipe  with  a  long-handled  dust-mop  or  with  a  cotton  flannel 
bag  put  over  a  broom.  If  there  are  spots  on  the  floor  they  should 


;io  MARION   HARLAND'S   COOK   BOOK 

be  rubbed  with  a  flannel  cloth.  If  this  does  not  remove  them, 
clean  with  a  little  turpentine  on  a  piece  of  cloth.  The  floor  should 
be  thoroughly  cleaned  and  polished  twice  a  year.  If  any  water 
should  get  spilled  on  them  it  must  be  wiped  up  at  once.  Any 
liquid  spilled  on  a  waxed  floor  will  produce  a  stain  if  left  to  dry, 
which  can  only  be  removed  by  hard  rubbing  and  the  encaustic. 

A  good  floor  polish 

Melt  not  quite  half  a  pound  of  beeswax  and  pour  it  into  a 
quart  of  turpentine,  then  add  five  cents  worth  of  ammonia.  Put 
it  in  a' tin  pail  and  set  it  in  another  vessel  containing  hot  water, 
and  leave  it  on  the  back  part  of  the  stove  to  heat.  Keep  warm 
while  using,  for  it  goes  on  better.  Apply  with  a  flannel  cloth, 
and  polish  with  a  piece  of  Brussels  carpet. 

To  clean  hairbrushes 

Put  a  tablespoonful  of  ammonia  into  a  basin  of  tepid  water  and 
dip  the  brushes  up  and  down  in  it  until  they  are  clean.  Dry  with 
the  bristles  down,  and  they  will  be  like  new. 

To  wash  blankets 

Pour  into  a  tub  half  a  pint  of  household  ammonia  and  lay  a 
blanket  over  it;  cover  immediately  with  lukewarm  water.  This 
sends  the  fumes  of  the  ammonia  through  the  blanket  and  loosens 
the  dirt.  The  blanket  should  then  be  stirred  about  with  a  stick 
and  pressed  until  all  the  dirt  seems  to  be  in  the  water,  then  rinse 
in  a  tub  of  clear  water  of  the  same  temperature  as  the  first,  run 
lightly  through  a  wringer  and  hang  out  to  dry. 

To  keep  tinware  from  rusting 

If  the  tinware  is  new  rub  over  carefully  with  fresh  lard  and 
heat  thoroughly  before  it  is  used. 


"HANDY"    HOUSEHOLD    HINTS  711 

How  to  clean  marble 

To  two  parts  of  common  baking-soda  add  one  of  pumice-stone 
and  one  of  fine  salt.  Sift  the  mixture  through  a  sieve  and  mix  it 
with  water,  then  rub  it  well  all  over  the  marble  and  the  stains  will 
all  be  removed.  Wash  with  a  strong  solution  of  salt  and  water, 
rinse  with  clear  water  and  wipe  dry. 


To  remove  old  tea  and  coffee  stains 

Wet  the  stains  with  cold  water,  cover  with  glycerine  and  let 
stand  for  two  or  three  hours,  then,  wash  in  cold  water  and  soap. 
Repeat  if  necessary. 


To  wash  windows  and  mirrors 

A  little  turpentine  dissolved  in  warm  water  is  the  best  thing 
with  which  to  wash  windows  and  mirrors.  A  little  alcohol  will 
also  do  wonders  in  brightening  glass. 


To  remove  grass  stain 

Cover  the  stain  with  common  cooking  molasses  and  let  stand  for 
two  or  three  hours.  Wash  in  lukewarm  water.  Repeat  the 
process  if  necessary. 


To  take  out  machine  grease 

Cold  water,  ammonia  and  soap  will  take  out  machine  grease 
where  other  things  would  fail  on  account  of  making  the  colors 
run. 

What  to  do  till  the  doctor  comes 

Croup:  Hot  fomentations,  flannels  wrung  out  of  boiling  water, 
should  be  applied  to  the  throat,  and,  if  necessary,  a  warm  bath 
given.  Give  a  teaspoonful  of  wine  of  ipecac,  or  the  same  quantity 
of  powdered  alum  stirred  into  syrup,  molasses  or  honey.  Some- 


;i2  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

times  a  few  drops  of  kerosene  on  brown  sugar  will  relieve  the 
tightness. 

W hooping  cough:  Steaming  the  throat  with  thirty  drops  of 
pure  carbolic  acid  in  two  and  one-half  pints  of  boiling  water  is  said 
to  be  an  excellent  remedy.  A  half  teaspoonful  of  kerosene  will 
often  relieve  the  paroxysms  of  coughing  when  nothing  else  will 
do  it. 

Antidotes  for  poisons 

For  laudanum,  morphine  and  opium:  First  give  a  strong 
emetic  of  mustard  and  water,  then  very  strong  coffee  and  acid 
drinks;  dash  cold  water  on  the  head,  and  keep  in  constant  mo- 
tion. 

For  arsenic :  Give,  just  as  quickly  as  possible,  an  emetic  of  mus- 
tard and  salt,  a  tablespoonful  of  each  in  a  cupful  of  warm  water ; 
then  follow  with  sweet-oil,  warmed  butter,  or  milk.  You  may 
also  use  the  white  of  an  egg  in  half  a  cupful  of  milk  or  lime  water. 
Get  a  doctor  as  soon  as  possible. 

For  ammonia :    Give  lemon  juice  or  vinegar. 

For  acids:  Give  magnesia,  soda,  or  soap  dissolved  in  water 
every  two  minutes ;  then  use  the  stomach-pump,  or  an  emetic. 

For  belladonna:  Give  an  emetic  of  mustard,  salt  and  water; 
then  drink  plenty  of  vinegar  and  water,  or  lemonade. 

For  "white  lead"  and  "sugar  of  lead" :  Give  an  emetic,  then 
follow  with  castor  oil,  epsom  salts  or  some  other  good  cathartic. 


HOW    TO    BTJILD    A    FIRE 

Before  attempting  to  use  a  range  (or  stove)  one  should  know 
something  about  its  construction,  and  the  appliances  that  are 
afforded  for  its  regulation.  An  ordinary  cooking  range  is  sup- 
plied with  dampers,  drafts  and  checks  to  regulate  the  direction 
and  intensity  of  the  heat. 

When  the  range  is  clean  and  cold  examine  it  carefully.  A  lever 
will  be  found  (often  directly  above  the  oven  door)  which  when 
pulled  out  or  pushed  in  (or  turned  to  right  or  left)  will  allow  the 


"HANDY"    HOUSEHOLD    HINTS  713 

heat  and  the  smoke  to  go  directly  into  the  chimney  flue,  or  through 
the  range  and  around  the  oven  indirectly  into  the  flue.  Well 
down  below  the  fire-box  is  the  draft  (a  door),  which  when  open 
allows  the  outside  (cold)  air  to  rush  in  and  force  the  fire  to  burn 
more  rapidly.  Above  the  fire-box,  near  the  top  of  the  stove,  are 
the  checks  (a  door  with  slides)  that  allow  the  outside  (cold)  air 
to  come  in  above  the  burning  fuel,  and  depress  its  combustion. 

It  is  readily  seen  when  the  smoke  damper  and  the  draft  are 
open,  with  the  checks  closed,  that  the  greatest  intensity  of  heat 
and  the  most  rapid  combustion  are  obtained.  In  this  way  the  top 
part  of  the  stove  directly  over  the  fire-box  may  be  heated  quickly 
and  intensely.  When  an  emergency  arises  this  is  the  quickest 
way  to  boil  the  water  in  the  kettle  or  to  cook  immediately  on  the 
top  of  the  stove.  However,  the  tax  on  fuel  is  excessive  and 
wasteful  when  the  damper  and  drafts  both  are  open.  When  dam- 
per and  drafts  are  closed  and  the  check  open,  the  fire  burns  most 
slowly  and  the  heat  radiated  is  least  intense. 

A  wood  fire 

When  ready  to  lay  the  fuel  and  build  the  fire  in  a  cold  stove,  be 
sure  that  the  fire-box  and  ash-pits  are  clean  and  free  from  ashes 
and  clinkers.  Then  open  the  damper  and  the  drafts  and  close  the 
checks.  The  fuel  should  always  be  put  in  from  the  top  after  re- 
moving the  lids  over  the  fire-box.  Place  the  paper,  slightly 
crumpled  (never  a  number  of  sheets  flat  together),  on  the  grating 
in  the  bottom  of  the  fire-box.  Lay  the  kindling  on  the  paper 
loosely  with  the  sticks  across  one  another  so  that  air  may  circu- 
late freely  between  them.  Place  stove  wood  on  the  kindling  in 
the  same  manner.  Light  the  paper  from  below  after  replacing  the 
lids  on  the  stove.  When  the  fire  is  burning  freely  close  damper 
and  drafts. 

A  quick  wood  fire 

When  a  quick  wood  fire  is  required  for  only  a  few  moments' 
use,  lay  the  fuel  as  usual,  except  to  use  about  one-third  the 
amount  of  paper  and  kindling  and  only  two  or  three  sticks  of 


7i4  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

stove  wood.  Build  the  fire  well  back  in  the  fire-box  next  to  the 
oven,  with  the  smoke  damper  and  drafts  wide  open.  The  draft 
is  much  stronger  in  the  back  of  the  fire-box  and  the  fire  therefore 
burns  more  readily. 

A  hard-coal  fire 

If  hard  coal  (anthracite)  is  to  be  used,  wait  until  the  wood  is 
burning  well  and  then  cover  with  a  thin  layer  of  coal.  As  soon 
as  this  is  thoroughly  ignited  put  in  more  coal  and  close  the  damper 
into  the  chimney  flue.  The  fire-box  should  never  be  filled  more 
than  two-thirds  full. 

A  soft-coal  fire 

A  soft-coal  fire  is  laid  in  the  same  way,  except  that  this  fuel 
requires  less  kindling  and  ignites  more  readily  than  anthracite. 
The  stove  wood  may  be  omitted  if  the  kindling  is  of  good  size.  In 
using  bituminous  (soft)  coals  the  flues  need  cleaning  oftener ;  but 
in  any  case  these  should  be  kept  free  from  soot.  Especially  the 
flues  around  the  oven  should  be  cleaned  once  in  ten  days.  If 
neglected  the  oven  does  not  bake  well,  becomes  too  hot  or  will  not 
heat  at  the  bottom,  and  causes  much  annoyance. 

Kerosene  and  other  explosive  oils  should  not  be  used  to  kindle 
the  fire.  When  the  stove  wood  or  kindling  is  damp,  patience  and 
an  extra  supply  of  paper  will  be  more  effectual  and  less  dangerous. 


FINAL  FAMILIAR  TALK 

EMERGENCIES,  BROKEN  CHINA,  AND— 
"IN    CASE    OF"— 

A  READY  command  of  expedients  is  the  hall-mark  of  the  canny 
housekeeper.  The  ability  to  snatch  safety  from  apparent  ruin, 
like  a  brand  from  the  burning,  is  a  faculty  with  some.  It  may  be 
acquired  by  many,  if  not  all.  The  experienced  housemother  is 
slow  to  believe  in  the  possibility  of  irreparable  disaster.  There  is 
no  such  word  as  "defeat"  in  her  dictionary.  Absolute  success  is 
not  always  to  be  had,  but  there  are  grades  of  success  in  cookery, 
as  in  political  preferment.  When  Mrs.  Faintheart  sits  down  to 
weep  over  spilt  milk,  Mrs.  Resolute  bethinks  her  of  something  that 
will  take  the  place  of  the  milk. 

She  reminds  herself  also  that  milk  is  greasy,  and  the  spot  not 
easily  removed  if  it  is  allowed  to  soak  into  the  silk,  woolen  or  other 
unwashable  fabric.  By  the  time  the  milky-way  spreads  itself 
over  carpet  or  gown  she  has  a  soft  brush,  warm  water  and  house- 
hold ammonia  in  hand,  sponges,  scrubs  and  rinses — this  last  with 
warm,  clear  water — then  rubs  dry  with  a  soft  linen  cloth. 

In  case  of  a  broken  ink-bottle,  or  upset  inkstand  upon  a  carpet, 
wash  immediately  with  skim-milk,  using  a  clean  sponge.  Soak 
the  ink  and  the  milk  up  together,  squeezing  the  sponge  hard  each 
time.  When  the  ink  disappears,  cleanse  the  sponge  well  and  wash 
the  place  again  with  warm  water  and  ammonia.  Lastly,  scrub 
with  a  clean,  stiff  brush  dipped  in  warm  water  and  ammonia,  fol- 
lowing the  threads  of  the  carpet.  If  these  directions  are  obeyed 
faithfully  the  carpet  will  be  brighter  than  before  the  accident. 

In  case  of  claret  or  fruit  stains  upon  table-cloth  or  napkin  hold 
the  stained  part  tightly  over  a  bowrl  and  pour  boiling  water  through 
it  for  three  or  four  minutes,  using  clean  water  every  time. 

715 


7i6  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

In  case  of  mildewed  linen,  rub  together  equal  parts  of  white 
soap  (old  Castile  is  best)  and  powdered  starch.  Make  a  soft  paste 
of  these  with  lemon  juice,  and  coat  the  mildew  on  both  sides  of 
the  linen  thickly  with  the  paste.  Lay  in  the  hot  sun  for  several 
hours,  wetting  the  paste  well  with  lemon  juice  every  hour.  Wash 
off  the  coating  with  clear  water,  and  if  any  sign  of  the  mildew  re- 
mains renew  the  application. 

In  case  of  ants  in  cupboard  or  refrigerator,  scour  the  shelves 
well  with  hot  water  and  borax.  Dry  in  the  sun  if  the  shelves  are 
portable,  then  sprinkle  thickly  with  dry  borax.  It  is  odorless  and 
harmless,  and  may  be  used  freely. 

In  case  of  soured  dough,  stir  an  even  teaspoonful  of  bicarbonate 
of  soda,  better  known  as  baking-soda,  into  a  cupful  of  warm  water ; 
turn  the  over-risen  dough  upon  a  board  and  work  in  the  soda- 
water,  gradually,  until  all  is  absorbed.  If  the  dough  is  so  soft 
that  it  runs,  add  a  little  sifted  flour  as  you  go  on.  Knead  thor- 
oughly and  set  for  the  last  rising,  taking  care  this  is  not  in  a  hot 
place.  I  have  seen  an  apparently  hopeless  batch  of  dough  re- 
deemed in  this  way. 

In  case  of  meat  that  has  a  "close"  smell,  yet  is  not  actually 
tainted,  wash  well  in  soda  and  water,  rubbing  it  well  into  every 
crack  and  line ;  wash  off  with  fresh  iced  water ;  leave  in  salted  iced 
water  for  half  an  hour,  wash  again  with  fresh,  wipe  quickly  until 
perfectly  dry,  and  cook  at  once. 

In  case  of  boiling  milk  more  than  eight  hours  old  in  summer, 
or  twelve  in  winter,  drop  in  a  bit  of  baking-soda  the  size  of  a 
pea  for  each  quart  when  you  put  the  milk  over  the  fire.  I  have 
boiled  cream  in  this  way  without  curdling  it.  Bear  in  mind  that 
the  first  stage  of  decomposition  is  acid,  and  treat  suspected  food 
with  soda  as  the  most  convenient  and  harmless  of  alkalies. 

In  case  of  curdled  mayonnaise,  whip  the  yolk  of  a  fresh  egg 
smooth  and  thick  and  stir  into  the  curdled  dressing. 

Nothing  brings  me  more  closely  in  touch  with  my  sister  house- 
mother than  the  request,  "Will  you  tell  me  what  to  do  in  case 
of" — let  the  exigency  be  a  shattered  hope,  an  aching  heart,  a 
hankering  after  a  mission,  or  broken  china. 

The  dismay  of  the  housewife  over  the  destruction  of  her  brittle 


FINAL    FAMILIAR   TALK  717 

treasures  dates  far  back  of  the  poetical  precision  who  makes  her 
ability  to  be  "mistress  of  herself  though  china  fall,"  the  test  of 
breeding.  I  suspect,  if  the  truth  were  known,  we  should  learn 
that  the  potsherd,  picked  up  from  the  ash-heap  by  hapless,  skin- 
smitten  Job,  marked  an  evil  day  in  the  calendar  of  his  shrewish 
wife  and  the  unlucky  servant  through  whose  carelessness  pot,  or 
cup,  or  platter  came  to  grief.  Furthermore,  that  the  broken  uten- 
sil belonged  to  a  set  that  could  not  be  matched  in  any  china-shop 
in  the  length  and  breadth  of  Uz. 

I  read,  yesterday,  in  one  of  the  "Be-thrifty-and-you-will-be- 
prosperous"  essays,  that  are  as  rusty  needles  in  the  thick  of  the 
thumb  of  the  woman  of  experience,  an  anecdote  of  a  notable  man- 
ager who  still  uses  the  same  "snow-drop  figure"  napery  affected 
by  her  mother  and  her  grandmother  before  her,  and  the  same 
pattern  of  china  and  cut-glass  that  set  forth  their  tables.  Hence 
— the  hateful  "Hence"  that  breaks  off  the  needle-point  in  the 
flesh ! — "she  has  no  difficulty  in  matching  worn-out  and  fractured 
articles  of  household  use."  Queen  Victoria  had  a  similar  fad. 
When  the  chair  and  sofas  of  Windsor  got  shabby  they  were 
spirited  away,  one  by  one,  without  her  knowledge  (presumably), 
and  recovered  with  stuff  of  the  same  design  and  color,  artistically 
dimmed  and  frayed  so  as  to  resemble  the  old  exactly.  Queens 
can  afford  to  have  expensive  and  almost  impossible  whims.  The 
drawback  to  imitation  of  Mrs.  Guelph's  and  Mrs.  Notable's  senti- 
mental economics  is  that  crockery,  glass  and  linen  merchants  do 
not  carry  dead  stock.  When  a  pattern  becomes  unfashionable 
it  disappears  from  the  market.  The  moral  and  exasperating 
"Hence"  should  have  a  corollary  in  the  shape  of  a  card,  telling  us 
where  Mrs.  Notable  finds  benevolent  tradesmen  who  replenish 
her  stores  with  snow-drop  damask  and  fifty-year-old  designs  in 
"fragiles." 

A  friend  writes  to  me  of  the  death  of  her  colored  butler,  after 
twenty-three  years'  service  in  her  family. 

"He  was  not  particularly  bright  or  brisk,"  she  says,  "and  had 
some  grave  faults.  But  he  did  not  break  or  chip  one  piece  of 
glass  or  china  while  he  was  with  us.  Do  you  wonder  that  we 
mourn  him  ?" 


718  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Considered  as  a  means,  of  grace  and  of  daily  discipline  in  the 
fine  order  of  breeding  indicated  by  our  poet,  our  waitress — what- 
ever her  race,  age,  or  previous  condition  of  sovereignty — leaves 
little  to  the  liveliest  imagination.  She  ''blazes"  her  trail  through 
our  households  by  nicks,  cracks,  breaks  and  "crazed"  glazing. 

There  is  a  hill  near  Rome  composed  entirely  of  broken  pottery 
The  modern  housekeeper  does  not  enter  into  the  social  specula- 
tions of  archaeologists  as  to  its  origin  and  history.  Women  loved 
china  in  those  older  days  as  fondly  as  we  love  it.  Perhaps — for 
it  was  an  age  of  idols,  many  and  curious — they  set  it  among  their 
household  goods.  At  any  rate,  when  it  was  shattered,  they  gave 
it  decent  burial.  If  the  dust-heaps  and  ash-barrels  of  Christian 
America  were  made  to  give  up  the  like  relics  deposited  in  guilty 
haste  and  secrecy  within  their  unhallowed  depths  the  woeful  pile 
would  dwarf  the  Tower  of  Babel  by  comparison,  and  represent  as 
many  tears  as  any  national  cemetery. 

In  view  of  the  frail  constitution  of  our  well-beloved  china,  we 
ought  not  to  set  our  hearts  upon  it  any  more  than  we  ought  to 
love  our  babies,  whose  tenure  upon  life  is  more  slight  than  spider's 
silk.  One  and  all,  we  do  set  our  affections,  and  feast  our  eyes,  and 
pamper  our  souls'  desires  upon  the  adornments  of  buffet  and  china- 
closet.  Tea,  coffee  and  chocolate  are  more  delicious  when  sipped 
from  Sevres  and  Limoges ;  our  sensitive  finger-tips  recoil  from  the 
blunt  edges  of  pressed  glass.  To  set  stone  china  and  thick  tum- 
blers before  tired  and  hungry  John  would  insult  one  who  deserves 
the  best  of  everything. 

Since,  then,  we  must,  in  justice  to  him  and  to  ourselves,  have 
fine  china  and  glass,  and  our  waitress's  tumultuous  voyagings 
among  them  will  strew  back  yards  and  vacant  lots  with  the  worth- 
less flotsam  and  jetsam  of  what  was  dear  and  precious,  what  shall 
be  done?  To  the  housekeeper  whose  time  has  not  a  prohibitive 
monetary  value,  my  advice  is  simple  and  direct:  Have  choice 
china — the  choicest  you  can  afford — and  take  care  of  it  yourself. 


SOME  CULINARY  TERMS 

"Aspic"— Meat  jelly. 

"Au  Gratin" — Dishes  covered  with  crumbs  and  browned. 

"Au  Naturel" — Plain,  simple.  Potatoes  cooked  in  their  jackets 
are  "au  naturel." 

"Barbecue" — To  roast  any  animal  whole,  usually  in  the  open 
air. 

"Bisque" — Soups  made  thick  with  mince  and  crumbs. 

"Blanch" — To  parboil,  to  scald  vegetables,  nuts,  etc.,  in  order 
to  remove  the  skin. 

"Blanquette" — Any  white  meat  warmed  in  a  white  sauce,  thick- 
ened with  eggs. 

"Bouillon"— A  clear  broth. 

"Bouquet" — A  sprig  of  each  of  the  herbs  used  in  seasoning, 
rolled  up  in  a  spray  of  parsley  and  tied  securely. 

"Cafe  au  lait"— Coffee  boiled  with  milk. 

"Cafe  noir"— Black  coffee. 

"Camembert" — A  brand  of  fancy  cheese. 

"Canape" — Usually  toast  with  cheese  or  potted  meat  spread 
upon  it.  Sometimes  made  of  pastry. 

"Cannelon" — Meat  stuffed,  rolled  up  and  roasted  or  braised. 

"Capers" — Unopened  buds  of  a  low  trailing  shrub  grown  in 
southern  Europe.  Pickled  and  used  in  sauces. 

"Capon" — A  chicken  castrated  for  the  sake  of  improving  the 
quality  of  the  flesh. 

"Caramel" — A  syrup  of  burnt  sugar,  used  for  flavoring  custards, 
etc.,  and  for  coloring  soups. 

"Casserole" — A  covered  dish  in  which  meat  is  cooked;  some- 
times applied  to  forms  of  pastry,  rice  or  macaroni  filled  with 
meat. 

719 


720  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

"Champignons" — French  mushrooms. 

"Charlotte" — A  preparation  of  cream  or  fruit,  formed  in  a  mold, 
lined  with  fruit  or  cake. 

"Chervil" — The  leaf  of  a  European  plant  used  as  a  salad. 

"Chillies" — Red  peppers. 

"Chives" — An  herb  allied  to  the  onion  family. 

"Chutney" — A  hot  acid  sauce  made  from  apples,  raisins,  toma- 
toes, cayenne,  ginger,  garlic,  shalots,  lemons,  vinegar,  salt  and 
sugar. 

"Comfitures" — Preserves. 

"Compote" — Fruit  stewed  in  syrup. 

"Consomme" — Clear  soup. 

"Cream  sugar  and  butter" — Is  to  rub  the  sugar  into  the  butter 
until  they  are  well  incorporated,  then  beat  light  and  smooth. 

"Creole,  A  la" — With  tomatoes. 

"Croquettes" — A  savory  mince  of  meat,  or  fowl,  or  fish,  or 
mashed  potatoes,  rice  or  other  vegetables,  made  into  shapes  and 
fried  in  deep  fat. 

"Croustade" — A  kind  of  patty  made  of  bread  or  prepared 
rice. 

"Croutons" — Bread  dice  fried. 

"Crumpet" — Raised  muffins  baked  on  a  griddle. 

"Curries" — Stews  of  meat  or  fish,  seasoned  with  curry  powder 
and  served  with  rice. 

"De  Brie" — A  brand  of  fancy  cheese. 

"Demitasse" — A  small  cup ;  term  usually  applied  to  after-dinner 
coffee. 

"Deviled"— Seasoned  hotly. 

"Eclair" — Pastry  or  cake  filled  with  cream. 

"En  Coquille" — Served  in  shells. 

"Endive" — A  plant  of  the  composite  family  used  as  a  salad. 

"Entrees" — Small  made  dishes  served  between  courses  at  dinner. 

"Entrements" — Second  course  side  dishes,  including  vegetables, 
eggs  and  sweets. 
/'Farcie"— Stuffed. 

"Fillets" — Long  thin  pieces  of  meat  or  fish,  generally  rolled  and 
tied. 


SOME    CULINARY    TERMS  721 

"Fines  herbes"— Minced  parsley,  etc. 

"Finnan  Haddock"— Haddock  smoked  and  dried. 

^Fondant"— Melting.     Boiled  sugar,  the  basis  of  French  candy. 

"Fondu" — A  preparation  of  melted  cheese. 

"French  dressing"— A  simple  salad  dressing  of  oil,  vinegar, 
salt,  pepper,  and  sometimes  mustard. 

"Galantine"— Meat,  boned,  stuffed,  rolled  and  boiled,  always 
served  cold. 

"Glace"— Iced. 

"Glaze" — Stock  boiled  down  to  a  thin  paste. 

"Grilled"— Broiled. 

"Gruye're" — A  brand  of  fancy  cheese. 

"Hors  d'ceuvres"— Relishes. 

"Jardiniere" — A  mixed  preparation  of  vegetables  stewed  in  their 
own  sauce ;  a  garnish  of  vegetables. 

"Julienne" — A  clear  soup  with  shredded  vegetables. 

"Koumiss" — Milk  fermented  with  yeast. 

"Lardoon" — The  piece  of  salt  pork  used  in  larding. 

"Lentils" — A  variety  of  the  bean  tribe  used  in  soups,  etc. 

"Marrons"— Chestnuts. 

"Mayonnaise" — A  salad  dressing  made  of  oil,  the  yolks  of  eggs, 
vinegar  or  lemon  juice,  salt  and  cayenne. 

"Menu"— Bill-of-fare. 

"Meringue" — The  white  of  eggs  whipped  to  a  standing  froth 
with  powdered  sugar. 

"Mousse" — Ice  cream  made  from  whipped  cream. 

"Noodles" — Dough,  cut  into  strips  or  other  shapes,  dried  and 
then  dropped  into  soup. 

"Nougat" — Almond  candy. 

"Paprika" — Hungarian  sweet  red  pepper. 

"Pate" — Some  preparation  of  pastry,  usually  a  small  pie.    Hence 
"patty-pans." 

"Pate  de  foie  gras" — Small  pie  filled  with  fat  goose  liver. 

"Piece  de  resistance" — Principal  dish  at  a  meal. 

"Pilau" — East  Indian  or  Turkish  dish  of  meat  and  rice. 

"Pimento'" — Jamaica  pepper. 
46 


- 


722  MARION    HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

"Pimolas" — Small  olives  stuffed  with  pimento — i.  e.,  sweet  red 
pepper. 

"Piquante" — Sharply  flavored,  as  "sauce  piquante,"  a  highly 
seasoned  sauce. 

"Pistachio" — A  pale  greenish  nut  resembling  the  almond. 

"Polenta" — An  Italian  mush  made  of  Indian  meal,  or  of  ground 
chestnuts. 

"Potage" — A  family  soup. 

"Potpourri" — A  highly  seasoned  stew  of  divers  materials — 
meat,  spices,  vegetables  and  the  like ;  a  Spanish  dish. 

"Puree" — Vegetables  or  cereals  cooked  and  rubbed  through  a 
sieve  to  make  a  thick  soup. 

"Ragout" — Stewed  meat  in  rich  gravy. 

"Ramakins" — A  preparation  of  cheese  and  puff  paste  or  toast, 
baked  or  browned. 

"Rechauffe" — Anything  warmed  over. 

"Rissoles" — Minced  meat,  made  into  rolls  covered  with  pastry 
or  rice,  and  fried. 

"Rissotto" — Rice  and  cheese  cooked  together ;  an  Italian  dish. 

"Roquefort" — A  brand  of  fancy  cheese. 

"Rod"— Roasted. 

"Roulade" — Meat  stuffed,  skewered  into  a  roll  and  cooked. 

"Roux" — Butter  and  flour  cooked  together  and  stirred  in  a 
smooth  cream.  A  white  roux  is  made  with  uncooked  flour ;  a 
br.own,  with  flour  that  has  been  browned  by  stirring  it  upon  a 
tin  plate  over  the  fire. 

"Salmi" — A  warmed-over  dish  of  game,  well  seasoned. 

"Saute" — To  fry  lightly  in  hot  fat  or  butter,  not  deep  enough  to 
cover  the  thing  cooked. 

"Scalpion" — A  mince  of  poultry,  ham,  and  other  meats  used  for 
entrees,  or  it  may  be  a  mixture  of  fruits  in  a  flavored  syrup. 

"Scones" — Scotch  cakes  of  flour  and  meal. 

"Shalot" — A  variety  of  onion. 

"Sorbet" — Frozen  punch. 

"Soubise" — A  sort  of  onion  sauce  eaten  with  meat. 

"Souffle"— A  "trifle"  pudding,  beaten  almost  as  light  as  froth, 
then  baked  quickly. 


SOME    CULINARY    TERMS  723 

"Stock" — The  essence  extracted  from  meat. 

"Supreme" — White  cream  gravy  made  of  chicken. 

"Tarragon" — An  herb  the  leaves  of  which  are  used  for  season- 
ing and  in  flavoring  vinegar. 

"Tartare" — As  a  "sauce  tartare" — tart,  acid. 

"Timbale" — A  small  pie  or  pudding  baked  in  a  mold  and  turned 
out  while  hot. 

"To  braise  meat" — Cook  in  a  covered  pan  in  the  oven  with 
stock,  minced  vegetables,  and  peas,  beans,  etc.,  whole,  and  with 
savory  herbs. 

"To  Marinate" — To  cover  with  lemon  juice  or  vinegar  and  oil, 
or  with  spiced  vinegar. 

"Truffles" — A  species  of  fungi  growing  in  clusters  some  inches 
below  the  surface  of  the  ground.  Used  in  seasoning  and  for  a 
garnish. 

"Tutti-frutti" — A  mixture  of  fruits. 

"Veloute" — A  smooth  white  sauce. 

"Vol-au-vent" — Light  puff  pastry  baked  in  a  mold  and  filled 
with  chicken,  sweetbreads  or  other  delicate  viand. 

"Zwieback"— Bread  baked  twice. 


FOR  READY  REFERENCE 


WEIGHTS   AND    MEASURES 

IT  is  so  much  easier  to  measure  ingredients  than  to  weigh  them 
that  the  housewife  saves  time  and  work  by  acquainting  herself 
with  certain  equivalent  measures  and  weights.  Without  burden- 
ing her  memory  with  a  dry  array  of  items  and  figures,  I  have  col- 
lected here  certain  details  to  which  she  can  refer  quickly  and  con- 
fidently. 

"One  cupful"  of  flour,  milk,  etc.,  means  half  a  pint. 

Two  scant  cupfuls  of  packed  butter  make  one  pound. 

Two  and  a  half  even  cupfuls  of  powdered  sugar  are  one  pound. 

Two  cupfuls  (one  pint)  of  water  or  milk  make  one  pound. 

Three  even  cupfuls  of  Indian  meal  make  one  pound. 

Four  even  cupfuls  of  dry  flour  make  one  pound. 

Two  cupfuls  (one  pint)  of  water  or  milk  make  one  pound. 

Ten  eggs  of  ordinary  size  make  one  pound. 

Two  cupfuls  of  minced  beef,  packed  closely,  make  one  pound. 

A  gill  of  liquid  is  half  a  cupful. 

One  heaping  tablespoonful  of  granulated  sugar  is  one  ounce. 

Two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  make  one  ounce. 

Two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  make  one  ounce. 

Two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  ground  coffee  make  one  ounce. 

One  tablespoonful  of  milk,  vinegar  or  brandy  make  one-half 
ounce. 

The  juice  of  an  ordinary  lemon  is  about  a  tablespoonful.  A 
breakfast  cupful  of  bread-crumbs  well  pressed  in  equals  about 
four  ounces.  Very  finely  chopped  suet,  slightly  heaped  up,  weighs 
about  the  same.  A  heaped  breakfast  cupful  of  brown  sugar  rep- 
resents half  a  pound,  and  stoned  raisins  well  pressed  in  weigh 
about  the  same. 

724 


FOR   READY    REFERENCE  725 


TIME-TABLE 
Baking  and  roasting 

FISH  AND   MEATS 

Baked  beans  with  pork 6  to  8  hours. 

Beef,  fillet,  rare .20  to  30  minutes. 

Beef  ribs  or  loin,  well  done,  per  pound.  .  .12  to  16  minutes. 

Beef  ribs,  or  loin,  rare,  per  pound 8  to  10  minutes. 

Chicken,  per  pound 15  minutes  or  more. 

Duck,  domestic i  hour  or  more. 

Duck,  wild 12  minutes  per  pound. 

Fish,  whole,  as  bluefish,  salmon,  etc 10  minutes  per  pound. 

Goose,  8  to  10  pounds 2  hours  or  more. 

Grouse   25  to  30  minutes. 

Ham 15  minutes  per  pound. 

Lamb,  well  done,  per  pound 15  to  1 8  minutes. 

Liver,  whole 12  minutes  per  pound. 

Mutton,  leg,  well  done,  per  pound .15  minutes  or  more. 

Mutton,  leg,  rare,  per  pound 10  minutes. 

Mutton,  saddle,  rare,  without  flank,  per 

pound .9  minutes. 

Mutton  shoulder,  stuffed,  per  pound 15  to  25  minutes. 

Partridge 35  to  40  minutes. 

Pork,  well  done,  per  pound 20  minutes. 

Small  fish  and  fillets 20  to  30  minutes. 

Turkey,  8  to  10  pounds 12  minutes  per  pound,. 

Veal,  well  done,  per  pound 18  to  20  minutes. 

Venison,  rare,  per  pound 10  minutes. 

Boiling 

MEATS 

Chicken    I  to  I  1-2  hours. 

Corned  beef  (rib  or  flank) 4  to  6  hours,  according  to 

size. 
Corned  beef  (fancy  brisket) 5  to  8  hours. 


726  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK   BOOK 

Corned  tongue 3  to  4  hours. 

Fowl,  4  to  5  pounds 15  minutes  per  pound,  if 

tender. 

Fresh  beef 4  to  6  hours. 

Ham 4  to  6  hours. 

Mutton 15  minutes  per  pound. 

Turkey,  per  pound 15  to  18  minutes. 

FISH 

Clams  and  oysters 3  to  5  minutes. 

Codfish  and  haddock,  per  pound 10  minutes. 

Bass  and  bluefish,  per  pound 10  minutes. 

Halibut,  whole  or  thick  piece,  per  pound  15  minutes. 

Lobster 30  to  40  minutes. 

Salmon,  whole  or  thick  piece,  per  pound.  .10  to  20  minutes. 
Small  fish 6  to  8  minutes. 

Broiling 

Bacon 4  to  8  minutes. 

Lamb,  or  mutton  chops 8  to  10  minutes. 

Liver i 4  to  8  minutes. 

Quail    10  to  15  minutes. 

Quail  in  paper  cases 10  to  12  minutes. 

Steak,  i  inch  thick. 8  to  12  minutes. 

Steak,  i  1-2  inch  thick 9  to  15  minutes. 

Shad,  bluefish,  etc 15  to  30  minutes. 

Slices  of  fish 12  to  15  minutes. 

Small  fish,  trout,  etc 8  to  12  minutes. 

Spring  chicken 20  minutes. 

Squabs  10  to  15  minutes. 

Frying 

Bacon  fried  in  its  own  fat 2  to  3  minutes. 

Chops,  breaded 8  to  10  minutes. 

Doughnuts  and  fritters 3  to  5  minutes. 

Fillets  of  fish 4  to  6  minutes. 

Potatoes 2  to  5  minutes. 


FOR   READY   REFERENCE  727 

Boiling  vegetables 

Asparagus   20  to  25  minutes. 

Beans,  string i  to  2  hours. 

Beans,  Lima 30  to  40  minutes. 

Beets,  new 45  minutes  to  one  hour. 

Beets,  old 4  to  6  hours. 

Brussels  sprouts 15  to  25  minutes. 

Cabbage 30  to  80  minutes. 

Carrots  (old)    I  hour  or  more. 

Cauliflower    20  to  30  minutes. 

Celery    20  to  30  minutes. 

Corn  10  to  20  minutes. 

Macaroni 20  to  50  minutes. 

Onions   45  minutes  to  2  hours. 

Oyster-plant 45  to  60  minutes. 

Parsnips 30  to  45  minutes*. 

Peas   20  to  50  minutes. 

Potatoes,  white 20  to  30  minutes. 

Potatoes,  sweet 15  to  25  minutes. 

Rice    20  to  30  minutes. 

Squash 20  to  30  minutes. 

Spinach    20  to  30  minutes. 

Tomatoes,  stewed 15  to  20  minutes. 

Turnips    30  to  45  minutes. 

Steaming 

Brown  bread 3  hours. 

Puddings,  one  quart  or  more 2  to  3  hours. 

Rice    45  to  60  minutes. 

Baking  of  bread,  cakes,  custards  and  pudding 

Fruit  cake   2  to  3  hours. 

Layer  cake 15  to  20  minutes. 

Loaf  bread 40  to  60  minutes. 

Muffins,   baking-powder 20  to  25  minutes. 


728  MARION   HARLAND'S    COOK    BOOK 

Muffins,  yeast about  30  minutes. 

Pie  crust 30  to  45  minutes. 

Plain  loaf  cake 30  to  90  minutes. 

Potatoes 30  to  45  minutes. 

Rolls,  biscuit 10  to  30  minutes. 

Scalloped  and  au  gratin  dishes 10  to  20  minutes, 

according  to  size. 
Sponge  cake,  loaf 45  to  60  minutes, 

according  to  size. 
Timbales    about  20  minutes. 

The  instructions  given  above  must  be  modified  by  circumstances : 
the  age  and  quality  of  meat,  vegetables  and  fish,  the  size  of  loaves 
and  so  forth.  It  is  not  possible  to  make  out  a  table  which  shall  be 
absolutely  accurate.  Experience  is  the  one  trustworthy  teacher. 


INDEX 


AFTER-DINNER  COFFEE,  653. 
Afternoon  receptions, 

menus  for,  608,  609. 
Afternoon  tea,  604. 

dainties  for,  610. 

formal,  menus  for,  608,  609. 

informal,  menus  for,  606,  607. 
Agate-nickel-steel    ware, 

advantages  of,  138,  242. 
Alaska  bake,  586,  587. 
Ale,  ginger,  frappe,  616. 
Alma's  drop  cakes,  287. 
Almond  cake,  271. 

cookies,  German,  286. 

filling,  281. 

macaroons,  284. 

roulettes,  547. 
Almonds, 

burnt,  creamed,  599. 

French  cream,  597. 

salted,  612. 
Ammonia,  antidote  for,  712. 

use  in  kitchen,  10,  n. 
Anchovies  au  lit,   161. 
Anchovy  bars,  223. 

crackers,  toasted,  206. 

croutons,  161. 

sandwiches,  220. 

sauce,  355. 

toast,  76,   161,  223. 
Angel  cake,  270. 
Anise  cakes,  291. 
Antidotes  for  poisons,  712. 
Ants,  to  get  rid  of,  698,  716. 
Apple  and  celery  salad,  232. 

and  cress  salad,  238. 

and  nut  salad,  232. 

and  tapioca  pudding,  baked,  529. 

biscuits,  raised,  56. 

butter,  621. 

cake,  261. 

grandmother's,  263. 

dumplings,  549. 

fritters,  545. 


Apple  jelly,  632. 
meringue  pie,  510. 

pudding,  537. 
pie,  sliced  apple,  509. 

creamed  sweet,  510.. 
pudding,  bird's  nest,  540. 
boiled,  519. 
Brown  Betty,  532. 
steamed,  518. 
puff,  541. 
sauce,  619. 
canned,  686. 
cold,  242. 
for  meat,  358. 
hot,  green  apples,  242. 
omelet   (baked),  247. 
pie,  creamed,  510. 
snow,  561. 

souffle  pudding,  541. 
tea,  662. 

Apples  and  bacon,  in. 
and  peaches,  dried,  244. 
and  sausages,  113. 
baked,   sweet,  243. 
canned,  685. 
care  of,  6. 
for  breakfast,  39. 
for  dessert,  577. 
mock  casserole  of  chicken,  196. 
steamed,  618. 
stewed,  243,  617. 
Apricot  fritters,  546. 
pudding,  525. 
sauce,  553. 

Arrowroot  blanc  mange,  563. 
Arsenic,  antidote  for,  712. 
Artichoke  soup,  331. 
Artichokes, 

Italian  boiled,  431. 
fried,  431. 

with  sauce  tartare,  431. 
Jerusalem,  baked,  430. 

boiled,  430. 
Asparagus,  a  la  vinaigrette,  429. 


729 


730 


INDEX 


Asparagus  and  shrimp  salad,  237. 

baked,  428. 

boiled,  427. 

time  for  cooking,  727. 

canned,  691. 

creamed,  429. 

loaf,  429. 

on  toast,  427. 

salad,  237. 

soup,  cream  of,  321- 

substitute  for,  poke  stalks,  467. 

tips,  caches,  428. 

tops,  scrambled  eggs  with,  86. 
Aspic,  defined,  719. 

tomato,  235. 

and  shrimp  salad,  227. 
Au  gratin,  defined,  719. 

dishes,  time  for  baking,  728. 
Au  naturel,  defined,  719. 
Auntie's  cookies,  285. 
Aunt  Nelly's  gingerbread,  282. 

BACON  AND  APPLES,  HI. 
and  liver,  122. 
and  oysters    (pigs   in  blankets), 

151- 

and  polenta,   HI. 
and  sweet  peppers,  112. 
and   tomatoes,    135. 
and  veal  cutlets,  127. 
broiled,  time  for  cooking,  726. 
how  to  slice  and  fry,  no. 

time  for  cooking,  726. 
Baked  beans  and  pork,  212, 433, 434. 

and   tomatoes,  212. 

Boston,  212. 

time  for  baking,   725. 

with  tomato  sauce,  434. 
Baked  Charlotte,  537. 
Baked  puddings, 

apple  and  tapioca,  529. 

meringue,   537. 

puff,  541. 

souffle,   541. 
baked    Charlotte,    537. 
banana  souffle,  544. 
bird's  nest,  540. 
blackberry,  531. 
bread  and  fig,  535. 

and  milk,  538. 

old-fashioned,  536. 

souffle,  543. 
bread-crumb,  535,  538. 
Brown  Betty,  532. 
cherry,  531. 


Baked  puddings,  chocolate,  537. 

souffle,  544. 
cocoanut  souffles,  542. 
cornstarch,  538. 
cottage,  535. 

raspberry,  531. 
cracker,  540. 
date  and  bread,  536. 
fig  and  bread,  535. 
fruit,  529. 
German,  533. 
Indian,  534. 
lemon    souffle,   543. 
orange,  530. 

sauce    for,   531. 

souffle,  543. 
peach  batter,  530. 

canned,  533. 

scallop,  536. 
pineapple,  529. 
plum,  530. 
Polly's,  539. 
poor  man's,  533. 
prune,  528. 

souffle,  543. 
queen  of,  536. 
raspberry  cottage,  531. 
rhubarb,  532. 

souffle,  542. 
rice  custard,  532. 

souffle,  542. 

with   eggs,   539. 

without  eggs,  539. 
sago,  541. 
squash,  538. 

sweet  omelet  souffle,  542. 
tapioca  and  apple,  529. 

and  raisin,  530. 
time  for  baking,  727. 
See      also,      Boiled      Puddings; 
Puddings;  Steamed  puddings; 

Souffles. 
Baking  bread,   cakes,   custards   and 

puddings,  time  for,  727. 
fish  and  meats,  time  for,  725. 
Baking-soda.     See  Soda. 
Banana  and  orange  meringue  glace, 

586. 

blanc  mange,  565. ' 
Charlotte,  569. 
fritters,  546,  547. 
froth,  563. 
ice-cream,  588. 
salad,  238. 
souffle,  544. 


INDEX 


Banana  souffle,  cold,  573. 

toast,    166. 

Bananas  and  cream,  246. 
baked,  432. 
fried  whole,  432. 
sautes,  432. 
scalloped,  432. 
Banbury  tarts,  518. 
Barbecue,  defined,  719. 
Barley  soup,  white,  312. 
Bartlett  pears  and  cream,  246. 
Bass,  black,  boiled,  338. 

cream  gravy  for,  339. 
time  for  cooking,  726. 
sea,  baked,  339. 

shrimp  sauce  for,  339. 
stuffed,  339. 

Bath,  skin  tonic  for,  707. 
Bathtubs,  to  clean,  695,  699. 
Battenberg     embroidery,     to     clean, 

700. 
Batter  bread,  southern,  71. 

for    griddle    cakes,    use    of    sal- 

eratus,  13. 

pudding,  cherry,  steamed,  527. 
peach,  baked,  530. 
steamed,  522. 

Bavarian  ice-cream,  plum,  589. 
Bean  and  beet  salad,  232. 
and  tomato  soup,  323,  326. 
soup,  323. 

Lima  bean,  332. 
mock-turtle,    323. 
Beans,   baked,   and  pork,   212,  433, 

434- 

and  tomatoes,  212. 

tomato  sauce,  434. 

time  for  baking,  725. 
Boston  baked,  212,  433. 
butter,  steamed,  436. 
dried,  care  of,  6. 
German  wax,  steamed,  436. 
green  salad,  240. 
how  to  keep,  6. 
Lima,  435. 

canned,  692. 

time  for  boiling,  727. 

with  white  sauce,  435. 
New  Jersey  baked,  434. 
sautes,  435. 
stewed,  435. 
string,  boiled,  436. 

canned,  692. 

cream,  steamed,  436. 

pickled,  637. 


Beans,  string,  savory,  437. 

time  for  boiling,  727. 
succotash,  446. 
Sunnybank  baked,  434. 
Bearnaise  sauce,  357. 
Beaten  biscuits,  Virginia,  62. 
Beauregard  cod,  163. 
Bechamel  sauce,  354. 
Bed-bugs,  to  get  rid  of,  701. 
Bed-linen,  care  of,  24. 
Bee  stings,  to  draw  poison,  707. 
Beef,    a    la    jardiniere,    canned    to- 
matoes to  accompany,  690. 
a  la  mode,  370. 

buying  for,  4. 
and  potato  pie,  391. 
and  tomato  pie,  391. 
boiled,  time  for  cooking,  726. 
bouillon,  309. 

a  la  russe,  310. 
braised,  368. 
cakes,  117. 
chilli  con  carni,  117. 
chipped  smoked,  180. 
corned,  370,  376. 
boiled,  376. 
time  for  boiling,  725. 
croquettes,  192. 
curried,   171. 

fillet,  time  for  cooking,  725. 
frizzled,  and  eggs,  87. 
Hamburg  steaks,   116. 
heart,  boiled,  375. 

roast,  376. 
hot-pot,  373. 
how  to  select,  3. 
Irish  stew,  182. 
juice  for  invalids,  313. 
larded,  174. 
liver,  stewed,  117. 
loaf,  175. 

loin,  time  for  cooking,  725. 
pot-roast,  369. 
family,  372. 
New  England,  372. 
ragout,   savory,   373. 
rechauffe,  a  la  jardiniere,  368. 
rib-ends  of,  369. 
ribs,  hot-pot,  373. 

time  for  cooking,  725. 
roast,  367. 

and  potato  pie,  391. 
and  tomato  pie,  391. 
baked  hominy  to  accompany, 
454- 


732 


INDEX 


Beef,    roast,    claret    or    Bordelaise 

sauce  for,  357. 

croquettes,   192. 

how  to  carve,  15. 

kinds  of,  4. 

larded,  174. 

sandwiches,   215. 

underdone,  to  use  up,  371. 

with  sauce  piquante,  174. 

with  Yorkshire  pudding,  367. 
rolled  boiled,  369. 
roulades  of,  178. 
sandwiches,  215. 
season  for,  3. 
steamed,   181. 
stew,  Irish,  182. 

savory,  178. 

tainted,  to  sweeten,  696. 
tea,  314. 

tomatoes  stuffed  with,  491. 
tongue,  boiled,  375. 

fresh,  braised,  374. 
sauce  for,  374,  375. 

Italian   entree,   375. 

smoked,  boiled,  373. 
tough,  to  make  tender,  696. 
ways  of  cooking,  367. 
Beefsteak  and  mushrooms,  116. 
and  onions,  116. 
and  sherry  sauce,   176. 
baked,  a  la  jardiniere,  371. 
Bearnaise  sauce  for,  357. 
braised    rolled,    371. 
broiled,  116. 

squash    pancakes    to    accom- 
pany, 487. 

time  for  cooking,  726. 
Chateaubriand,  116. 
chilli  con  carni,  117. 
croquettes,    192. 
Espagnole  sauce  for,  358. 
how  to  select,  4. 
mock  roast  chicken,  176. 
pie,  392. 

porterhouse,  with  oysters,  178. 
ragout,  savory,  373. 
roulades  of  beef,  178. 
rump,  and  tomatoes,  177. 

stewed,   177. 
tough,  to  make  tender,  13,  695. 

ways  of  cooking,  371. 
Beer,  ginger,  658. 
Beet  and  bean   salad,  232. 
salad,  230. 
soup,  cream  of,  319. 


Beets,  boiled,  437. 

time  for  cooking,  727. 
canned,  691,  692. 
care  of,  6. 
sweet  pickles,  644. 
young,  creamed,  437. 
Belgian  hares,  420. 
Belladonna,  antidote  for,  712. 
Berries,  for  breakfast,  39. 

See     Breakfast     fruits;     Canned 

fruits;    Preserves;    Name    of 

berry. 

Berry  jam,  622. 
jelly,  622. 

pie,  combination,  513. 
sherbert,  587. 
Beverages,  apple  tea,  662. 
blackberry  cordial,  661. 

vinegar,  655. 
cafe  au  lait,  653. 

noir,  653. 
cherry  bounce,  656. 

wine,  654. 
chocolate,  653. 
cocoa,  653. 

nibs  or  "shells,"  654. 
coffee,  after-dinner,  653. 

for  breakfast,  652. 

iced,  653. 
dandelion  cordial,  658. 

tea,  658. 

wine,  658. 
egg-nog,  662. 
flaxseed  lemonade,  662. 

tea,  662. 
ginger  beer,  658. 

wine,  658. 
grape  juice,  656. 

wine,  656,  657. 
koumiss,  660. 
lemonade,  655. 

lively,  655. 
matzoon,  657. 
mead,  659. 
milk-shake,  660. 
mint  punch,  654. 
orange  juice,  iced,  660. 
raspberry  cordial,  661. 

vinegar,  655. 
rhubarb  wine,  655. 
sarsaparilla  wine,  659. 
sherbet   (lemonade),  655. 
slippery-elm  tea,  662. 
strawberry  punch,  654,  659. 

wine,  657. 


INDEX 


733 


Beverages,  tea,  cold,  652. 
hot,  652. 
punch,  654. 

toast  water,  66 1. 

See    Frappes;    Invalids,    drinks 

for. 

Bicarbonate  of  soda.     See  Soda. 
Biliousness,  diet  for,  30,  31. 

fruit  diet  for,  41. 

hot  green-apple  sauce  for,  242. 
Bill  of  fare.     See  Menu. 
Bird's  nest  pudding,  540. 
Birds,  small,  pie,  425.    See  Game. 
Biscuits,  caraway,  58. 

cheese,  201. 

egg,  58. 

graham,  62. 

milk,  61. 

milk-and-water,  61. 

potato,  62. 

quick,  61. 

raised  apple,  56. 

time  for  baking,  728. 

Virginia  beaten,  62. 
Bisques,  cheese,  316. 

chicken,  316. 

clam,  315. 

cod,  317. 

corn,  316. 

crab,  315. 

denned,  314,  719. 

halibut,  317. 

lobster,  315. 

oyster,  314. 

salmon,  317. 

tomato,  318. 
Black  bass, 

boiled,   338. 

cream  gravy  for,  339, 
Blackberries,  canned,  688. 

for  breakfast,  39. 
Blackberry  cordial,  661. 

pie,  513- 

pudding,  baked,  531. 
boiled,  519. 

vinegar,  655. 
Blackbird  pie,  425. 
Black  cloth,  to  clean,  706. 

mud  stains  in,  to  remove,  707. 

lace,  to  clean,  700. 

lawns,  starch  for,  709. 
Blanc  mange,  arrowroot,  563. 

banana,  565. 

brown,  566. 

Charlotte  Russe,  568. 


Blanc  mange,  chocolate,  564. 

cider  jelly,  567. 

Italian  cream,  565. 

peach  sponge,  565. 

pink  pudding,  566. 

rice,  570. 

rose,  566. 

snow  pudding,  564. 

strawberry  sponge,  567. 

vanilla,  563. 
Blanch,  denned,  719. 
Blankets,  to  wash,  710. 
Blanquette,  denned,  719. 
Blueberry  pie,  New  England,  513. 
Bluefish,  baked,  338. 

time  for  cooking,  725. 

boiled,  time  for  cooking,  726. 

broiled,  338. 

time  for  cooking,  726. 

stuffed,  340. 
Boiled  puddings,  518. 

apple,  518,  519. 

apricot,  525. 

blackberry,  519. 

chocolate  custards,  556. 

clonduff,  524. 

cornstarch,  hasty,  526. 

cup  custards,  555. 

East  Indian,  526. 

fig,  520,  521. 

fruit,  524. 

frumenty,  540. 

gooseberry,  525. 

huckleberry,  522. 

Indian,  521,  522. 

macaroni,  535. 

Mary's  favorite,  526. 

minute,  540. 

orange,  523. 

peach  tapioca,  560. 

plum,  520. 

prune,  522. 

rice,  with  milk  and  egg,  543. 

Sally's,  524. 

See  also,  Baked  puddings ;  Pud^ 

dings ;  Steamed  puddings. 
Boiling  fish,  time  for,  726. 

meats,  time  for,  725. 

vegetables,  time  for,  727. 
Bones,  use  for  stock,  3,  697. 
Books,  to  prevent  mold  on,  707. 
Bordeaux,  temperature  to  serve  at, 

673. 

Bordelaise  sauce,  357. 
Boston  baked  beans,  212,  433. 


734 


INDEX 


Boston  brown  bread,  steamed,  51. 
Bottles,  sealing-wax  for,  633. 
Bouillon,  beef,  309. 
a  la  rtisse,  310. 

chicken,  310. 

defined,  719. 
Bounce,  cherry,  656. 

wild  cherry,  656. 
Bouquet,  defined,  719. 
Brain  croquettes,  190. 

for  garnishing,  385. 

fritters,  126. 

calf's,  scalloped,  384. 
stewed,  126. 

fried,  127. 

for  garnishing,  384. 

on  toast,  180. 
Braise,  To,  meaning,  723. 
Brandied  peaches,  629. 
Brandy  sauce,  liquid,  554. 
Brass,  to  clean,  698. 
Bread  and  date  pudding,  536. 

and  fig  pudding,  baked,  535. 

and  milk  pudding,  538. 

Boston  brown,  steamed,  51. 
time  for  steaming,  727. 

bun  loaf,  264. 

buttermilk,  53. 

crumb  pudding,  535,  538. 

dough,  soured,  to  save,  13,  716. 

dressing,  for  turkey,  400. 

dust,  696. 

German  coffee,  53,  260. 

graham,  49. 

without  yeast,  53. 

how  to  keep,  8. 

milk,  48. 

omelet   (baked),  82. 

pudding,  old-fashioned,  536. 

raisin,  268,  611. 

rusk,  dried,  57. 

rye,  old-fashioned,  50. 
and  Indian,  50. 

Sally  ^Lunn,  57. 
quick,  61. 

salt-rising,  51,  52. 

sauce.  356. 

souffle,  543. 

southern  batter,  71. 
egg,  71. 

stale,  griddle-cakes,  69. 

sweet-potato,  52. 

Swiss  fritters,  547. 

time  for  baking,  727. 

whole  wheat,  48,  49. 


Bread  with  plain  sponge,  47. 
with  potato  sponge,  46. 
See  Biscuits;  Buns;  Cornbread; 

Crumpets;    Muffins;   Rolls. 
Breakfast,  34. 

bacon,  no  (see  Bacon), 
breads  for,  hot,  54. 

of  Indian  meal,  71. 
cereals,  42. 
brewis,  44. 
cracked  wheat,  44. 
farina,  45. 
hominy,  42,  43. 

fried,  136. 

Indian  meal  mush,  42,  45. 
meal-and-flour  porridge,  44. 
milk  porridge,  44, 
oatmeal,  42,  43. 
rice,  43,  44. 
wheat,  42. 
coffee,  652. 
fish  for,  93. 
formal,  663. 

manner  of  serving,  663-665. 
menus  for,  664. 
to  set  table  for,  663,  664. 
fruits  for,  39. 
apples,  39. 
berries,  39. 
blackberries,  39. 
cantelopes,  40. 
gooseberries,  39. 
grapes,  39. 
huckleberries,  39. 
melons,  40. 

nutmeg,  40. 
oranges,  38. 
peaches,  39. 
pears,  39. 
raspberries,  39. 
stewed,  40. 
prunes,  41. 
rhubarb,  41. 
strawberries,  39. 
game  for,  129.    See  Game, 
meats  for,  no. 
rolls,  54,  55. 

service  of,  18.  , 

to  set  table  for,  18. 
vegetables  for,  131. 
Brewis,  44. 
Bride's  cake,  276. 
Bristol  tea  cakes,  6n. 
Broiling,  time  for,  726. 
Brook  trout,  fried,  345. 


INDEX 


735 


Brooms,  how  to  select,  698. 
Broth, 

beef  juice,  for  invalids,  313. 

beef  tea,  314. 

bones  for  stock,  3. 

chicken,  336. 

Glasgow,  307. 

green  pea,  329. 

Scotch,  386. 

veal  and  rice,  305. 
and  sago,  305. 

See  also,  Bouillon;  Soups, 
Brown  Betty,  532. 

bread,  time  for  steaming,  727= 
toast,  205. 

mange,  566. 

roux,  defined,  722. 

sauce,  353. 

for  broiled  oysters,  146. 
Brunette  muffins,  risen,  63. 

sandwiches,  214. 
Brunswick  stew,  423. 
Brussels  sprouts,  au  gratin,  438. 

boiled,  438. 

time  for  cooking,  727. 
Buckwheat  cakes,  66,  67. 

quick,  67. 

sour  milk,  67. 
Bun  loaf,  264. 
Buns,  cinnamon,  263. 

currant,  59,  262. 

hot  cross,  59. 

See  Rolls. 
Burgundy,  temperature  to  serve  at, 

673. 
Burns  and  scalds, 

lard  and  soot  ointment,  187. 

use  of  soda,  13. 
Burnt  almond  ice  cream,  582. 

almonds,   creamed,  599. 
Butter  and  sugar,  to  cream,  mean- 
ing, 720. 

apple,  621. 

beans,  steamed,  436. 

how  to  keep,  8. 

lemon,  596. 

peach,  621. 

peanut,  for  sandwiches,  613. 

plum,  621. 

renovation  with  soda,  13. 
Buttermilk  bread,  53. 

corn  bread,  73. 

crullers,  294. 
Butternut  pickles,  634. 
Butterscotch,  596. 


CABBAGE,  baked,  439. 

with  tomato  sauce,  440. 
boiled,  savory,  439. 

time  for  cooking,  727. 
cold-slaw,  233,  440. 
cream  salad,  441. 
fricaseed,  439. 
Italian  style,  441. 
kohlrabi,  495. 

odor  from  cooking,  to  avoid,  438. 
red,  pickled,  641.    • 
salad,  233. 
scalloped,  441. 
shredded,  and  cheese,  440. 
stuffed,  439. 
Cabinet  pudding,  527. 
Cache  of  asparagus  tips,  428. 
Cafe  au  lait,  653. 

defined,  719. 
frappe,  614. 
noir,  653. 

defined,  719.    . 
parfait,  585. 
Cake,  almond,  271. 
angel,  270. 
apple,  261. 

grandmother's,  263. 
beef,  117. 
bride's,  276. 
bun  loaf,  264. 
caramel,  277. 
chocolate  loaf,  266. 
chrysanthemum,  272. 
citron    (Thanksgiving),  274. 
cocoanut  and  citron  layer,  267. 
cream,   276. 
currant,  277. 
daisy,  272. 
devil's  food,  270. 
fancy,  foundation  for,  275. 
for  luncheon,  258. 
fruit,  264,  265. 

Christmas,  20^,. 

time  for  baking,  727. 
gold,  266. 
Grafton,  265. 
how  to  keep,  8. 
huckleberry,  261. 
jelly  roll,  270. 
kleiner,  269. 
lemon,  272. 
loaf,  chocolate,  266. 

plain,  275- 

frosting  for,  278. 
time  for  baking,  728. 


736 


INDEX 


Cake,  marble,  276. 

marshmallow  layer,  274. 

filling  for,  275. 
Minnehaha,  274. 

filling  for,  274. 
mocha,  273. 

filling  for,  274. 
nut,  275- 

oatmeal  scones,  oio. 
cne-egg,  277- 
orange  cheese,  517. 
layer,  271. 

filling  for,  271. 
parkin,  263. 
pork,  269. 
potato,  260. 

drop,  208. 
pound,  265. 

trifle,  569. 
poverty,  270. 
raisin  bread,  268. 
silver,  266.   . 
sour  cream,  276. 
sponge,  boiled,  268. 
cup,  267. 

loaf,  time  for  baking,  728. 
old-fashioned,  267. 
springleys    or    springerlein,    261, 

262. 

sunshine,  271. 
tea,  610. 

Bristol,  611. 
corn-meal,  611. 
hot  milk,  612. 
scones,  610. 
time  for  baking,  727. 
Virginia  wafers,  6n. 
White  mountain,  273. 

filling  for,  273. 

See    also,    Coffee    cake;    Layer 
cake ;        Shortcake ;        Small 
cakes;   Fillings;  Frostings. 
Calf's  brains, 

croquettes,  190. 

for  garnishing,  385. 
fried,  127. 

for  garnishing,  384. 
fritters,  126. 
scalloped,  384. 
stewed,  126. 
head,  baked,  382. 
boiled,  382. 
how  to  select,  5. 
mock  turtle  soup,  304,  383. 
heart,  roast,  380. 


Calf's  liver,  a  la  jardiniere,  383. 

casserole  of,  384, 
f       how  to  select,  5. 
larded,  381. 

baked,  180. 

mock  pate  de  foie  gras,  180. 
salmi  of,  381. 
Camembert,  defined,  719. 
Canapes,  defined,  719. 
oyster,  351. 
sardines,  159. 
Candied  citron,  601. 
fruits,  602. 
orange  peel,  600. 
peaches,  629. 
pineapple,  600. 
Candies,  590. 

butterscotch,  596. 
chocolate  caramels,  594. 
fudge,  591. 
marshmallows,   595. 
cream,  burnt  almonds,  599. 
chocolate,  594. 

coating  for,  595. 
dates,  596. 
English  walnuts,  597. 

fondant   for,   598. 
fondant  for,  595. 
French  cream  almonds,  597. 
grapes,  599. 
walnut,  597. 
popcorn,  599. 
crystallized  fruits,  602. 
hickory  nut,  602. 
.    hoarhound,  dried  leaves,  596. 

fresh  leaves,  596. 
lemon  butter,  596. 
maple,  590. 

caramels,  590. 
fudge,  591. 
nut,  602. 
marshmallows,  6oi. 

chocolate,  595. 
Mexican  kisses,  592. 
molasses,  592. 
stick,  593. 
taffy,  593- 
"velvets,"  593. 
walnut,  593. 
nougat,  598. 
opera  caramels,  594. 
orange  straws,  600. 
peanut,  598. 
brittle,  601. 
molasses,  598. 


INDEX 


737 


Candies,  peanut,  sugared,  599. 

penotchie,  592. 

popcorn  balls,  599. 

stuffed  dates,  602. 

sugar,  591. 

wintergreen,   597. 
Canned-fruit  sauce,  552. 
Canned  fruits,  684. 

apple  sauce,  686. 

apples,  sweet,  685. 
tart,  685. 

blackberries,  688. 

cherries,  687. 

gooseberries,  688. 

green  gages,  687. 

peaches,  686. 

pears,  seckel,  686. 
unpeeled,  686. 

plums,  687. 

quinces,  688. 

raspberries,  688. 

rhubarb,  687. 

strawberries,  688. 

tutti-frutti  jelly,  574. 

See  also,  Jam  ;  Jellies ;  Preserves. 
Canned  meats, 

chicken,  413. 

lambs'  tongues,  barbecued,  128. 

lobster,  to  prepare  for  use,  155. 

shrimps,  157. 
Canned  soups, 

salmon  bisque,  317. 

succotash,  327. 
Canned  vegetables,  689. 

asparagus,  691. 

beans,  Lima,  692. 
string,  692. 

beets,  691,  692. 

corn,  690. 

and  tomatoes,  691. 
potted,  691. 

tomatoes,  stewed,  690. 

whole,  689,  690. 
Cannelon,  defined,  719. 
Cantelopes,  for  breakfast,  40. 
"Cape  Cod  folks"  tid-bit,  165. 
Caper  sauce,  356. 
Capers,  defined,  719. 
Capon,  defined,  719. 
Caramel  cake,  277. 

defined,  719. 

filling,  279. 

for  coloring  soups,  307. 

frosting,  279. 

sauce,  552. 


Caramels,  chocolate,  594. 

maple,  590. 

opera,  594. 
Caraway  biscuits,  58. 

cookies,  286. 
Carpets,    ink-stains    in,    to    remove, 

704. 
Carrot  croquettes,  442. 

soup,  327. 
Carrots  and  turnips  sautes,  495. 

care  of,  6. 

mashed,  442. 

sautes,  442. 

stewed,  441. 

time  for  cooking,  727. 
Carving,  15. 
Casserole,  defined,   194,  719. 

of  calf  s  liver,  384. 

of  chicken,  194,  410. 
mock,  196. 

of  lamb  chops,  195,  387. 

of  mutton  chops,   195. 

of  potato  and  cheese,  195. 

of  rabbit,  419. 

of  rice  and  liver,  195. 
Catfish,  fried,  101. 

soup,  336. 

Cats,  to  cure  mange  in,  701. 
Catsups,  etc.,  648. 

chili  sauce,  648. 

chutney,  649. 

currant,  650. 

grape,  649. 

mixed  mustard,  651. 

mushroom,  650. 

pepper  vinegar,  651. 

piccalilli,  649. 

tomato,  650. 

walnut,  650. 
Cauliflower  au  gratin,  443. 

boiled  whole,  442. 

time  for  cooking,  727. 

odors  from,  how  to  prevent,  186. 

salad,  230. 

sauce,  359. 

soup,  328. 

sweet  pickle,  647. 

with  tomato  sauce,  443. 
Caviar  crisps,  222. 

in  saucers,  162. 

strips,  162. 
Celery  and  apple  salad,  23?. 

and  tripe,  stewed,  115. 

creamed,  in  Edam  cheese  shell, 
203. 


738 


INDEX 


Celery,  croquettes,  192. 
fried,  444. 
roots,  stewed,  /\<\/\. 
salad,  with  sweetbreads,  239. 
sauce,  355- 
savory,  w\. 
soup,  328. 

cream  of,  319. 
stewed,  443. 
brown,  /\<\/\. 
time  for  cooking,  727. 
toast,  206. 
Cellar,     vegetables     causing     odors 

in,  6. 

Cement  for  lining  aquarium,  702. 
Cereals.       See     Breakfast     cereals; 

Name  of  cereal. 
Chablis,    temperature    to    serve    at, 

673. 
Chafing-dish   suppers,  678. 

menus  for,  678,  679. 

recipes  suitable  for,  680. 

to  set  table  for,  679. 
Chairs,  to  renew  cane  seats,  705. 
Champagne  sauce,  359. 

temperature  to  serve  at,  673. 

to  cool,  673. 
Champignons,  defined,  720. 

and  crabs,  156. 

and  lobsters,  156. 

and  scallop  of  shrimps,  157. 
Charlotte,  baked,  537. 

banana,  569. 

defined,  720. 

pineapple,  561. 

prune,  559. 

Russe,  568. 

macaroon,  563. 

strawberry,  570. 
Chateaubriand  steak,   116. 
Cheese  and  crackers,  deviled,  202. 

and  egg  timbales,  200. 

and  halibut,  scalloped,  165. 

and  nut  sandwiches,  218. 

and  olive  sandwiches,  613. 

and  potato,  casserole  of,  195. 

and  rice  pudding,  198,  211. 

and  scrambled  eggs,  86. 

and  tomatoes,  199. 

baked,  204. 

biscuits,  201. 

bisque,  316. 

crackers,  201. 

cream,  201. 

and  lettuce  sandv.iches,  614. 


Cheese,  cream,  for  sandwiches,  61-3. 

creamed,  golden   buck,   202. 

custard  toast,  77. 

cutlets,  204. 

dishes  for  luncheon,  198. 

fingers,  201. 

fondu  of,  198. 

fritters,  200. 

how  to  keep,  7. 

omelet,  85. 

Parmesan,  oysters  with,  351. 

puffs,  199. 

ramakins,  200. 

rice,  199. 

rings,  203. 

sauce,  for  potatoes,  474. 

shell,  Edam,  creamed  celery  in, 
203. 
macaroni  in,  203. 

souffle,  200. 

soup,  cream  of,  322. 

straws,  199. 
Cherries,  canned,  687. 

glaces,  245. 

raw,  245. 

stewed,  244. 

sugared,  245. 
Cherry    batter    pudding,     steamed, 

527. 

bounce,  656. 

wild  cherry,  656. 

dumplings,  549. 

ice,  588. 

pickles,  636. 

pie,  512. 

mock  (cranberry  and  raisin), 
512. 

preserves,  628. 

pudding,  baked,  531. 

roly-poly,  527. 

salad,  239. 

tarts,  517. 

wine,  654. 

Chervil,  defined,  720. 
Chestnut    and    sweet    potato    cro- 
quettes, 478. 

croquettes,  450,  496. 

pudding,  450. 

stuffing,  for  turkey,  401. 
Chestnuts,  preserved,  624. 

with  whipped  cream,  559. 
Chicken  and  eggs  scalloped,  168. 

and  ham  pie,  390. 

and  ham  sandwiches,  613. 

and  macaroni,  457. 


INDEX 


739 


Chicken    and    macaroni    croquettes, 

190. 
baked,  408. 

time  for  cooking,  725. 
baked    broiled    (smothered), 406. 
baked  fried,  407. 
bisque,  316. 
boiled,  406. 

bread  sauce  for,  356. 

celery  sauce  for,  355. 

stuffed  with  oysters,  410. 

time  for  cooking,  725. 
bouillon,  310. 
braised,  407. 
broiled,   124,  407. 

in  the  oven,  406. 

time  for  cooking,  726. 
broth,  336. 

Brunswick  stew,  423. 
canned,  413. 
casserole  of,  194,  410. 

mock,  196. 
chop  suey,  412. 
cold,  ways  to  cook,  124. 
cream  soup,  308,  309. 
creamed,  125,  196. 

and  macaroni,  197. 

stewed,  410. 
croquettes,   189. 

with  celery  toast,  206. 
curried,  172. 
en  casserole,  194,  410. 
fowl,  boiled,  time  for  cooking,  726. 

pie,   389. 
fricaseed,  408. 

brown,  409. 
fried,  123. 

Virginia  style,  123. 

with  cream  gravy,  124. 
fritters,  124. 
giblets,  mock  pate  de  foie  gras, 

180. 

gumbo,  310,  311. 
how  to  carve,  16. 
how  to  select,  5. 
imitation  terrapin,  126. 
jellied,  176. 

Mexican  hot  tamales,  411. 
mince  turnover,  174. 
minced,  baked,  171. 

in  green  peppers,  133. 

on  half-shell,   125. 
mock  pate  de  foie  gras,  180. 

roast,  176. 

terrapin,  126. 


Chicken,  mock,  omelet,  125. 

pie,  388. 
cold,  389. 
fowl,  389. 

pilau  of,  409. 

pot  pie,  389. 

roast,  405. 

claret     or     Bordelaise     sauce 

for,  357. 
corn    fritters    to    accompany, 

446. 
mock,  176. 

rolls,  stuffed  with,  612. 

salad,  226. 

sandwiches,  216. 

sandwiches,  214. 

scallops,  197. 

smothered,  406. 

soup,  brown,  313. 
white,  313. 

spring,  time  for  broiling,  726. 

stew,  dumplings  for,  411. 

timbales,  168. 

to  make  tender,  12. 

to  prepare   for  cooking,   405. 

toast  sandwich,  206. 

tomatoes  stuffed  with,  491. 

Virginia  stew,  423. 

ways  of  cooking,  124,  405. 
Children,  care  and  diet  of,  25. 

to  avoid  fresh  pork,  4. 
Chili  sauce,  648. 
Chilli  con  carni,  117. 
Chillies,  denned,  720. 
China,  arrangement  of,  109. 
Chipped  beef  and  eggs,  87. 

smoked  beef,  180. 
Chips,  potato,  207. 

Saratoga,  475. 
Chives,  defined,  720. 
Chocolate,  653. 

blanc  mange,  564. 

cake,  loaf,  266. 

caramels,  594. 

coating  for  creams,  595. 

creams,  594. 

coating  for,  595. 

custard,  baked,  556. 
boiled,  556. 

frosting  for  layer  cake,  278. 

fudge,  591. 

ice  cream,  582. 

marshmallows,  595. 

pie,  508,  509. 

pudding,  537. 


740 


INDEX 


Chocolate  sandwiches,  217. 
sauce,  551. 

for  vanilla  ice  cream,  581. 
souffle,  544. 
Chop  suey,  412. 

Chops,  Bearnaise  sauce  for,  357. 
breaded,  fried,  time  for  cooking, 

726. 

broiled,   squash  pancakes  to  ac- 
company, 487. 
Espagnole  sauce  for,  358. 
how  to  select,  3,  4. 
lamb,  128. 

casserole  of,  195,  387. 
time  for  broiling,  726. 
mutton,  casserole  of,  195. 
mutton,  French,  3. 
loin,  3. 
pie,  393- 

time  for  broiling,  726. 
pork,  broiled,  113. 

season  for,  4. 
veal,  broiled,  127. 
fried,  127. 
pie,   393- 
recommended,  4. 
Chow-chow,  641. 
Chowder,  baked,  165. 
'     clam,  333. 

"long"  clams,  334. 
corn,  331. 
Creole,  448. 
farmer's,  328. 
scallop,  334. 

Chrysanthemum  cake,  272. 
Chutney,  649. 

defined,  720. 
Cider  ice,  589. 
jelly,  567. 
sauce,  359. 
Cinnamon  buns,  263. 

custard,  558. 

Citron  and  cocoanut  layer  cake,  267. 
cake    (Thanksgiving),  274. 
candied,  601. 
rind  preserves,  624. 
Clam  bisque,  315. 
chowder,  333. 

"long"  clams,  334. 
cocktails,  351, 
fritters,  103. 
omelet,  83. 
pates,  153. 
pie,  350. 
salad,  236. 


Clam  soup,  334. 

wafers,  222. 
Clams,  creamed,  152. 

deviled,  102,  153. 

fried,  102. 

on  toast,  102. 

raw,  222. 

roasted,  152. 

scalloped,  103,  152. 

time  for  boiling,  726. 
Claret  sauce,  357,  554. 

stains,  to  remove,  715. 

temperature  to  serve  at,  673. 
Clonduff  pudding,  524. 
Cloth,  black,  to  clean,  706. 

mud-stains  in,  to  remove,  707. 
Cloth  gowns,  light,  to  clean,  704. 

grease-spots  in,  to  remove,  706. 
Club  sandwiches,  220. 
Coal  fires,  to  build,  714. 

oil,  spilled  on  floor,  what  to  do, 

186. 
Cocktails,  clam,  351. 

oyster,  150,  221. 
Cocoa,  653. 

nibs  or  "shells,"  654. 
Cocoanut  and  citron  layer  cake,  267. 

and  orange  delight,  562. 

cream  puffs,  288. 
filling  for,  288. 

custard,  557. 

filling,  280. 

frosting,  280. 

macaroons,  284. 

pie,  5p8. 

souffle,  542. 

tapioca  custard,  557. 
Cod,  Beauregard,  163. 

bisque,  317. 

"Cape  Cod  folks"  tid-bit,  165. 

chowder,  baked,  165. 

cutlets,  98. 

deviled,  166. 
Codfish  balls,  104. 

creamed,  104. 

fresh,  baked,  341. 
boiled,  341. 

egg  sauce  for,  341. 
time  for  cooking,  726. 
Coffee,  after-dinner,  653. 

bread  or  cake,  German,  53,  260. 

cafe  au  lait,  653. 
frappe,  614. 
noir,  653. 
parfait,  585. 


INDEX 


741 


Coffee,  care  of,  6. 

custards,  558. 

for  breakfast,  652. 

how  to  keep,  6. 

iced,  653. 

jelly,  572. 

junket,  568. 

stains,  to  remove,  711. 
Cold  slaw,  233,  440. 
Colds,  flaxseed  lemonade  for,  662. 
Comfitures,  defined,  720. 
Compote,  defined,  720. 
Condiments.     See  Catsups  ;  Pickles ; 

Sweet  Pickles. 
Consomme,  defined,  720. 

See  Bouillon  ;  Broth ;   Soups. 
Constipation,  diet  for,  30,  31. 
Cookies,  auntie's,  285. 

caraway,  286. 

currant,  285. 

eggless,  292. 

Fannie's,  287. 

German  almond,  286. 

lemon,  286. 

molasses,  288. 

oatmeal,  285. 

peanut,  287. 

plain,  292. 

sand,  287. 

spice,  286. 

sponge,  286. 

vanilla,  288.     See  Wafers. 
Cooking  utensils,  kind  to  buy,   138, 

633. 
Copper      utensils,      dangerous      in 

pickle-making,  633. 
Cordial,  blackberry,  661. 

dandelion,  658. 

raspberry,  661. 
Corn    and    potatoes     ("left-over"), 

473- 

and  tomato  salad,  235. 
and  tomato  soup,  331. 
and  tomatoes,  447,  491. 
canned,  691. 
scalloped,  447. 
balls,  446. 
bisque,  316. 
boiled,  445. 

time  for  cooking,  727. 
bread,  buttermilk,  73. 

Dinah's,  73. 

of  northern  meal,  71. 

of  southern  meal,  71. 

sour-milk,  72. 


Corn,  canned,  690. 

chowder,  331. 

Creole  chowder,  448. 

croquettes,  447. 

fritters,  446. 

loaf,  steamed,  72. 

omelet,  448. 

pone,  74. 

potted,  691. 

pudding,  445,  446. 

soup,  cream  of,  320. 

stewed,  445. 

succotash,  446. 
soup,  327. 

sweet,  griddle-cakes,  70. 

tomatoes  stuffed  with,  492. 

waffles,  75. 
Corned  beef,  370,  376. 

boiled,  376. 

Corned  beef,  boiled,  time  for  cook- 
ing, 725- 

ham,  baked,  398. 

tongue,  376. 

time  for  cooking,  726. 
Corn-meal     and     graham     griddle- 
cakes,  70. 

breakfast  breads,  71. 

corn  pone,  74. 

crumpets,  72. 

dumplings,  550. 

gems,  73. 

hominy-cake,  74. 

how  to  keep,  7. 

Indian  pudding,  baked,  534. 
boiled,  521,  522. 

Johnny-cakes,  74. 

loaf,  steamed,  72. 

muffins,  two-and-two,  73. 

mush,  42,  45. 

Philadelphia  scrapple,  197. 

tea  cakes,  611. 

waffles,  75. 
Cornstarch  hasty  pudding,  526. 

pudding,  538. 

Cosmetics,  mutton  and  lamb  fat,  697. 
Cottage  cheese  sandwiches,  214,  216. 

pie,  181. 

pudding,  535. 
raspberry,  531. 
baked,  531. 
Cough  in  fever  patient,  flaxseed  tea 

for,  662. 
Crab  and  tomato  salad,  227. 

bisque,  315. 

cutlets,  98. 


742 


INDEX 


Crab  salad,  226. 

soup,  335- 

Crabapple  jelly,  631. 
preserves,  628. 
sweet  pickles,  643,  644. 
Crabs     and     champignons     (mush- 
rooms), 156. 
deviled,  155. 
en  coquille,  156. 
fricasseed,  348. 
soft-shell,  broiled,  345. 

fried,  104,  346. 
Cracked  wheat,  44. 

frumenty,  540. 
Cracker  pudding,  540. 
Crackers,  anchovy,  toasted,  206. 
and  cheese,  deviled,  202. 
broken  to  use,  697. 
cheese,  201. 
deviled,  223. 
how  to  buy  and  keep,  6. 
toasted,  206. 
water,  269. 

Cranberries  spiced,  645. 
Cranberry  and  raisin  pie,  512. 
jelly,  631. 
pie,  512. 
pudding,  519. 
sauce,  358. 
tarts,  517. 
Cream  cake,  276. 
cheese,  201. 

and   lettuce   sandwiches,  614. 

for  sandwiches,  613. 

golden  buck,  202. 
gravy,  for  boiled  black  bass,  339. 

for  fried  chicken,  124. 
puffs,  573- 

cocoanut,  288. 

filling  for,  288,  573. 
salad,  cabbage,  441. 

dressing,  225. 

of  sour  cream,  225. 
sauce,  551. 
soups,  asparagus,  321. 

beet,  319. 

celery,  319. 

cheese,  322. 

chicken,  308,  309. 

corn,  320. 

general  directions,  318. 

lettuce,  322. 

onion,  320. 

pea,  321. 

potato,  320. 


Cream  soups,  sago,  322. 

spinach,   318. 

tapioca,  321. 

tomato,  319. 

strawberry   sillibub,  571. 
toast,  76. 
whipped,  554,  558. 

tomatoes  with,  235. 
Creole,  a  la,  defined,  720. 
chowder,  448. 
salmi  of  duck,  405. 
Creamed  fritters,  545. 

sugar  and  butter,  defined,  720. 
Cress  and  apple  salad,  238. 
Crisps,  peanut,  612. 
Croquettes,  beef,  192. 
brain,  190. 

for  garnishing,  385. 
carrot,  442. 
celery,  192. 
chestnut,  450,  496. 
chicken,  189. 

and  celery  toast,  206. 

and  macaroni,  190. 
corn,  447. 
defined,  720. 
egg,  87. 

English  walnut,  496. 
fish  and  potatoes,  191. 
general  directions,  188. 
green  peas,  465. 
hominy,   191,  455. 
lobster,  189. 
oyster,  188. 

oyster-plant  (salsify),  193. 
peanut,  451. 
potato,  132,  191,  470. 

and  nut,  192. 
rice,  190,  480. 

and  tomato,  480, 
salmon,  99. 
salsify,  193. 
shad,  95. 

roe,  97. 
sweet  potato,  478. 

and  chestnut,  478. 
sweetbread,  193. 
tomato,  490. 
turkey,  126,  189. 
veal,  189. 

and  celery  toast,  206. 

and  ham,  191. 

and  spaghetti,  190. 
Croup,  remedy  for,  711. 
Croustade,  defined,  720. 


INDEX 


743 


Croutons,  anchovy,  161. 

defined,  720. 

for  soup,  333. 
Crullers,  buttermilk,  294. 

ideal,  294. 

Mary's,  294. 

sunnybank,  295. 

to  fry  properly,  293. 

to  keep,  292. 

See  also,  Doughnuts. 
Crumb  pie,  515. 
Crumpets,  corn-meal,  72. 

defined,  720. 

English,  60,  61. 
Crustaceans.     See  Shellfish. 
Crystallized  fruits,  602. 
Cucumber  and  sweetbread  salad,  237. 

pickles,  633,  640,  643. 
sliced,  634. 
sweet,  643. 
Cucumber  salad,  234. 

with      sandwiched      toast, 
206. 

sauce,  cream,  357. 

plain,  357. 
Cucumbers  and  tomatoes,  raw,  489. 

baked,  450. 

dill  pickles,  647. 

fried,  212,  450. 

raw,  449. 

ripe,  pickled,  640. 

stewed,  449. 

stuffed,  449. 

sweet  pickles,  643. 

with  lemon  juice,  234. 
Culinary  terms,  defined,  719. 
Cup  custards,  cold,  555. 

sponge  cake,  267. 

Curing  ham,  Virginia  recipe,  399. 
Currant    and    raspberry    ice-cream, 

K      589'          A 

buns,  59,  202. 

cake,  277. 

catsup,  650. 

cookies,  285. 

gingerbread,  283. 

jam,  Banbury  tarts,  518. 

jelly,  630. 

pie,  513- 

shortcake,  258. 

tarts,  516. 

Currants,  spiced,  645. 
Curried  beef.  171. 

chicken,  172. 

eggs,  81,  166. 


Curried  eggs,  banana  toast  to  accom- 
pany, 1 66. 
lamb,  172. 
lobster,  154. 
mutton,  172. 
oysters,  149. 
pork  cutlets,  114. 
salmon,  162. 
scallops,  104. 
shrimps,  157. 
tomatoes,  493. 

green,  493. 
veal,  171. 

Curry,  bananas  served  with,  172. 
boiled  rice  served  with,  172. 
defined,  720. 

Curtains,  lace,  to  dry-clean,  707. 
Custard  filling,  280. 
pie,  509,  516. 
rice,  pudding,  532. 
Custards,  apple  snow,  561. 
baked,  555. 
banana  froth,  563. 
chestnuts    and    whipped    cream, 

559,  56i. 
chocolate,  baked,  556. 

boiled,  556. 
cinnamon,  558. 
cocoanut,  557. 

tapioca,  557. 
coffee,  558. 
cup,  boiled,  555. 
floating  island,  557. 
fruited  whipped  cream,  560. 
how  to  prepare  milk  for,  555. 
marrons    with    whipped    cream, 

559,  56i. 
onion,  463. 
orange,  558. 

and  cocoanut  delight,  562. 

cream,  559. 
peach  sponge,  560. 
pineapple  Charlotte,  561. 

snow,  562. 

prune  Charlotte,  559. 
raspberry  cream  sponge,  562. 

float,  560. 
rice,  557. 

strawberry  float,  560. 
tapioca-cocoanut,  557. 

French,  556. 
time  for  baking,  727. 
Cutlets,  Bearnaise  sauce  for,  357. 
cheese,  204. 
crab,  98. 


744 


INDEX 


Cutlets,  fish,  98. 
lobster,  98,  154. 
oyster,  351. 
pork,  broiled,  113. 

curried,  114. 
sweetbread,  121. 
veal,  377- 

and  bacon,  127. 

breaded,  379. 

chops  recommended  in  place 
of,  4. 

fried,  127. 

DAFFODILS,  84. 
Daisy  cake,  272. 

salad,  234. 
Dandelion  cordial,  658. 

salad,  233. 

stewed,  451. 

tea,  658. 

wine,  658. 

Date  and  nut  sandwiches,  217. 
Date  creams,  596. 

pudding,  536. 
Dates  and  rhubarb,  241. 

stuffed,  602. 
De  Brie,  denned,  720. 
Decanters,  to  clean,  702. 
Decay,   of  vegetables,   etc.,   preven- 
tion, 6. 

Definitions,  of  culinary  terms,  719. 
Demitasse,  defined,  720. 
Dessert,  dishes  for,  503. 

fruits  for,  576. 
Deviled  clams,  102,  153. 

cod,  166. 

crab,  155. 

crackers,  223. 

and  cheese,  202. 

defined,  720. 

eggs,  80,  167. 

halibut,  166. 

lobster,  155. 

oyster  pates,  145. 

panned  oysters,  149. 

toast,  205. 
Devil's  food,  270. 
Devonshire  pork  pies,  393. 
Diet,  for  children,  26. 

influence  on  digestion,  28,  29,  30. 
Dill  pickles,  647. 
Dinah's  corn  bread,  73. 
Dinner,  brown,  674. 

classes  of,  668. 

dessert  dishes  for,  50?. 


Dinner,  familiar  talk,  300. 
green  and  white,  673. 
manner  of  serving,  21,  22,  671- 

673. 

menus  for,  669-671. 
pink,  674. 

sweets  of  all  sorts,  503. 
to  set  table  for,  21,  22,  669. 
vegetables  for,  427. 
yellow,  675. 

Dish  towels,  care  of,  10. 
Dishes  for  the  sick.     See  Invalids, 

Dishes  for. 

Dough  cakes.    See  Small  cakes, 
soured,  to  save,  716. 

use  of  saleratus,  13. 
Doughnuts,  mother's,  293. 
quick,  293. 
sour  milk,  293. 
time  for  cooking,  726. 
to  fry  properly,  293. 
to  keep,  292. 
See  also,  Crullers. 
Drawn  butter  sauce,  353. 
Dressing,  for  turkey,  bread,  400. 
chestnut,  401. 
oyster,  401. 
sausage,  401. 
for  ducks,  404. 
for  roast  duck,  peanut,  497. 
Dried  apples  and  peaches,  244. 
beans,  care  of,  6. 
beef  and  eggs,  87. 
mushrooms  and  .eggs,  213. 
peaches,  stewed,  619. 
pears,  stewed,  620. 
peas,  care  of,  6. 
rusk,  57. 
Drinks.      See    Beverages ;    Invalids, 

Drinks  for. 
Dripping,  696. 
Drop  cakes,  Alma's,  287. 

potato,  208. 

Duchesse  potatoes,  472. 
Ducks,  braised,  405. 
Creole  salmi  of,  405. 
how  to  carve,  16. 
roast,  404. 

apple   and   nut    salad   to   ac- 
company, 232. 
apple  sauce  for,  358. 
peanut  stuffing  for,  497. 
spiced   cranberries  to  accom- 
pany, 645. 
time  for  cooking,  725. 


INDEX 


745 


Ducks,  to  prepare  for  cooking,  404. 
Dumplings,  apple,  549. 

cherry,  549. 

corn-meal,  550. 

for  chicken  stew,  411. 

orange,  551. 

peach,  550. 

potato,  475,  476. 

raspberry,  549. 

suet,  550. 

Dysentery,    blackberry    cordial    for, 
661. 

EAST  INDIAN  PUDDING,  526. 

sweetmeats,  imitation,  626. 
Eclair,  defined,  720. 
Eel  soup,  335. 
Eels,  fried,  105. 

stewed,  105. 
Egg  and  cheese  timbales,  200. 

and  olive  sandwiches,  613. 

biscuits,  58. 

bread,  southern,  71. 

croquettes,  87. 
Egg  nog,  662. 

omelet,  with  marmalade,  248. 

salad,  with  boiled  dressing,  228. 
with  sardine  mayonnaise,  228. 

sandwiches,  215. 

sauce,  353. 

for  boiled  fresh  codfish,  341. 

soup,  333- 

timbales,  167. 

tomatoes,  canned,  690. 
Eggless  cookies,  292. 
Eggplant,  broiled,  133. 

fried,  133,  452. 

scalloped,  453. 

stewed,  sauce  piquante,  454- 

stuffed,  on  half-shell,  452. 

with  tomatoes,  453. 
Eggs,  age  of,  to  determine,  78. 

and  chicken,  scalloped,  168. 

and  dried  mushrooms,  213. 

and  frizzled  beef,  87. 

and  minced  ham,  81. 

and  minced  kidneys,  81. 

and   minced  tongue,  81. 

and  shrimps,  158. 

and  tomatoes,  85. 

scalloped,  210. 

baked  soufHe  of,  85. 

boiled,  78. 

curried,  81,  166. 

daffodils,  84. 


Eggs,  deviled,  80,  167. 
fried,  80. 

and  tomatoes,  492. 
with  brown  sauce,  80. 
how  to  keep,  6. 
in  cases,  88. 
minced,  88. 

minced  veal  garnished  with,  172. 
nesting,  84. 
poached,  78. 

and  tomatoes,  492. 
clear  soup  with,  306. 
in  milk,  79. 
sardine,  160. 
savory,  81. 
scalloped,  88. 
scrambled,  79. 
in  cups,  79. 

with  asparagus  tops,  86. 
with  cheese,  86. 
shirred,  88. 
See  Omelets. 
Embroidery,    Battenberg,    to    clean, 

700. 

Emergencies,  how  to  meet,  715. 
unexpected      guests,      preparing 

for,  32. 

En  coquille,  defined,  720. 
Endive,  defined,  720. 

salad,  237. 

English  crumpets,  60,  61. 
muffins,  60. 
omelet,  82. 
pork  pie,  394. 
walnut  cream,  597. 

fondant  for,  598. 
croquettes,  496. 
sandwiches,  215. 
Entrees,  defined,  720. 
Entrements,  defined,  720. 
Espagnole  sauce,  358. 
Etiquette,  familiar  talk  about,  681. 
Evening  suppers,  676. 
menus  for,  677. 
to  set  table  for,  677. 

FAMILIAR  TALKS. 
Breakfast,  34. 

Who  Rules  the  Home?  89. 
Where  we  Eat,  107. 
With  Martha  in  her  Kitchen,  137. 
The  Family  Luncheon,  143. 
Living  to  Learn,  183. 
With   the   Nominal    Mistress   of 
the  House,  249. 


746 


INDEX 


FAMILIAR  TALKS, 

A    Friendly    Word    with      Our 

Maid,"  296. 
Dinner,  300. 
Is  Impromptu  Hospitality  a  Lost 

Art?  361. 

Even-threaded  Living,  498. 
Common  Sense  and  "Etiquette," 

681. 
Emergencies,  Broken  China,  and 

— "In  case  of,"  715. 
Fannie's  cookies,  287. 
Farcie,  defined,  720. 

tomato,  210. 
Farina,  45. 

Farmer's  chowder,  328. 
Feather  griddle-cakes,  68. 
Fermenty,  540. 
Fig  and  bread  pudding,  535. 
and  nut  sandwiches,  218. 
and  raisin  pudding,  52i» 
filling,  281. 
pudding,  520,  521. 
sandwiches,  218. 
Figs  and  rhubarb,  241. 
Fillets,  defined,  720. 

of  beef,  time  for  cooking,  725. 
of  fish,  broiled,  time  for  cooking, 
726. 

fried,  time  for  cooking,  726. 
of,  flounder,  baked,  343. 
of  flounder,  fried,  343. 
of  haddock,  100. 
of  halibut,  100. 

baked,  341. 

of  turkey,  with  rice,  401. 
of  veal,  roast,  stuffed,  378. 
Fillings,  279,  280. 
almond,  281. 
caramel,  279. 
cocoanut,  280. 
custard,  280. 
fig,  281. 

for  cream  puffs,  288,  573. 
for  marshmallow  cake,  275. 
for  Minnehaha  cake,  274. 
for  mocha  cake,  274. 
for  orange  layer  cake,  271. 
for  white  mountain  cake,  273. 
marshmallow,  279. 
soft  white,  279. 
Fines  herbes,   defined,  721. 
Finnan  haddie,  broiled,  106. 

defined,  721. 
Fire,  how  to  build,  712. 


Fire,  hard-coal,  714. 

soft-coal,  714. 

wood,  713. 

quick,  714. 

Fish,  anchovies  au  lit,  161. 
anchovy  bars,  223. 

crackers,  toasted,  206. 

croutons,  161. 

sandwiches,  220. 

sauce,  355. 

toast,  161,  223. 
and  potato  croquettes,  191. 
balls,  cod,  104. 
black  bass,  boiled,  338. 

cream  gravy  for,  339. 

time  for  cooking,  726. 
bluefish,  baked,  338. 

time  for  baking,  725. 

boiled,  time  for  cooking,  726. 

broiled,  338. 

time  for  cooking,  726. 

stuffed,  340. 

boiled,  time  for  cooking,  726. 
brook  trout,   fried,  345. 
catfish,  fried,  101. 
chowder,  baked,  165. 
cod,  balls,  104. 

Beauregard,  163. 

bisque,  317. 

"Cape  Cod  folks"  tid-bit,  165. 

creamed,  104. 

deviled,  166. 

fresh,  baked,  341. 

fresh,  boiled,  341. 
egg  sauce  for,  341. 
time  for  cooking,  726. 
cutlets,  98. 
eels,  fried,  105. 

stewed,   105. 

fillets   of,    fried,  time   for  cook- 
ing, 726. 
finnan  haddie,  broiled,  106. 

defined,  721. 
flounder,  baked  fillets  of,  343. 

fried  fillets  of,  343. 
haddock,  boiled,  time   for  cook- 
ing, 726. 

broiled,  99. 

fillets,  100. 
halibut  and  cheese  scallop,  165. 

baked,  342. 

bisque,   317. 

boiled,  time  for  cooking,  726 

deviled,  166. 

fillets,  100. 


INDEX 


747 


Fish,  halibut  fillets  baked,  341. 
steak,  baked,  342. 

baked  with  tomatoes,"  343. 
steak,  broiled,  100. 

fried,  100. 
for  breakfast,  93. 
how  to  carve,  17. 
how  to  keep,  7. 
how  to  select,  5. 
fried,  cream  sauce  for,   101. 
green  peppers  to  accompany, 

133- 

lemon  sauce  for,  97. 
Lenten  salad,  238. 
mackerel,  fresh,  baked,  343. 

salt,  boiled,  105. 
broiled,    105. 

muskelonge,  stuffed,  340. 
oily  taste,  to  remove,  13. 
omelet,  87. 
perch,  fried,  98. 
pickerel,  baked,  344. 

boned,  baked,  345. 

fried,  with  cream  sauce,  101. 
"pick-up"    (of  left-overs),  164. 
red  snapper,  baked,  337. 

boiled,  337. 

steamed,  338. 
roe,  caviar  in  saucers,  162. 

caviar  strips,  162. 

See  Shad  roe. 
roe,    herring    (smoked),   grilled, 

106. 
salmon,  baked,  344. 

time  for  baking,  725. 

bisque,  317. 

boiled,  time  for  cooking,  726. 

croquettes,  99. 

curried,  162. 

loaf,  99. 

sandwiches,  216. 

scalloped,  99,  163. 

smoked,  broiled,  106. 
fried,  106. 

steaks,  broiled,  98. 

trout,    baked,    cream    gravy, 

345- 

boiled,  344. 
sardine  eggs,  160. 
salad,  228. 
sandwiches,  216. 
sardines,  baked,  159. 
broiled,  159. 
canapes  of,  159. 
grilled,  160. 


Fish,  sardines,  how  to  buy  and  pre- 
pare, 158. 

in  cups,  1 60. 

scallop  (of  left-overs),  164. 
sea  bass,  baked,  339. 

shrimp  sauce  for,  339. 
stuffed,  339. 
shad,  baked,  340. 

broiled,  with  sauce  piquante, 

94; 

time  for  cooking,  726. 
creamed,  164. 
croquettes,  95. 
fried,  95. 
planked,  94. 
roe,  broiled,  96. 

croquettes,  97. 

fried,  96. 

scalloped,  96. 
scalloped,  96. 

slices  of,  broiled,  time  for  cook- 
ing, 726. 
small,  baked,   time   for   cooking, 

725. 

boiled,  time  for  cooking,  726. 
broiled,  time  for  cooking,  726. 
smelts,  baked,  163. 

with  oyster  forcemeat,  163. 
fried,  97. 

soups,  catfish,  336. 
clam,  334. 
clam  chowder,  333. 

"long  clams,"  334. 
crab,  335. 
eel,  335- 
oyster,  335. 
red  snapper,  333. 
scallop  chowder,  334. 
time  for  baking  and  roasting,  725. 
for  boiling,  726. 
for  broiling,  726. 
for   frying,   726. 
trout,  baked,  cream  gravy,  345. 
boiled,  344. 

broiled,  time  for  cooking,  726. 
fried,  98,  345. 
See  Sauces  for  Fish  and  Meat ; 

Shell-fish;  Name  of  fish. 
Five-o'clock  tea,  604. 

See  Afternoon  tea. 
Flannel  cakes,  Lizzie's,  68. 

See  Griddle  cakes. 
Flaxseed  lemonade,  662. 

tea,  662. 
Float,  raspberry,  560. 


748 


INDEX 


Float,  strawberry,  560. 

See  Custards. 
Floating  island,  557. 
Floors,  hardwood,  care  of,  709. 

polish  for,  710. 

varnished,  to  clean,  699. 
Flounder,  baked  fillets  of,  343- 

fried  fillets  of,  343- 
Flour,  how  to  keep,  7. 
Flour-and-meal   porridge,  44. 
Foamy  sauce,  553. 
Fondant,   defined,  721. 

for  cream  candies,   595. 

for    creamed    English    walnuts, 

598. 
Fondu,  defined,  721. 

of  cheese,  198. 

Food,  influence  on  digestion,  28. 
Forcemeat,  for  mock  roast  chicken, 
176. 

oyster,  baked  smelts  with,  163. 
Formal  breakfasts,  663. 

manner  of  serving,  663,  664, 

665- 

menus  for,  664. 
to  set  table  for,  663,  664. 
luncheons,    manner    of    serving, 
667. 

menus  for,  666,  667. 
to  set  table  for,  6616. 
teas,  menus  for,  608,  609. 
Fowl,  boiled,  time  for  cooking,  726. 

pie,  389- 

Fox-grape  jelly,  629. 
Fox  grapes,  spiced,  645. 
Frankfurters,  113. 
Frappes,  cafe,  614. 
ginger  ale,  616. 
lemonade,  615. 
maple,  583. 
orangeade,  615. 
raspberry  juice,  615. 
tea,  615. 
French  chops,  3. 

cream  almonds,  597. 
dressing  defined,  721. 
fried  potatoes,  475. 
onion  soup,  312. 
pancakes,  69. 
rolls,  58. 

salad  dressing,  225. 
tapioca  custard,  556. 
Fresh  mackerel,  baked,  343. 
pork, .season  for,  4. 


Fried  cakes,  kleiner,  269. 
vanities,  291. 

tartlets,  518. 
Fritters,  a  la  creme,  545. 

almond  roulettes,  547. 

apple,  545. 

apricot,  546. 

bananas,  546,  547. 

brain,  126. 

cheese,  200. 

chicken,  124. 

clam,  103. 

corn,  446. 

green  pea,  464. 

hominy,  455. 

how  to  fry  properly,  544. 

orange,  545. 

oyster,  349. 

peach,  546. 
.      potato,  471. 

rhubarb,  546. 

salsify,  483. 

squash,  487. 

sweet  potato,  547. 

Swiss,  547. 

time  for  cooking,  726. 

tomato,  491. 

Frittura    (Italian   hotch-potch),  173. 
Frizzled  beef  and  eggs,  87. 
Frogs'  legs,  fricasseed,  101. 
fried,  101. 
stewed,   102. 
Frosted  lemonade,  615. 
Frostings,  278. 

boiled,  278. 

caramel,  279. 

cocoanut,  280. 

for  plain  loaf  cake,  278. 

made  with  yolks,  279. 

milk,  278. 

Frozen  beverages.     See  Frappes. 
Fruit  baskets,  221. 
Fruit  cake,  264,  265. 
Christmas,  265. 
time  for  baking,  727. 

pudding,  baked,  529. 
boiled,  524. 

rolls,  59. 
salad,  231. 

stains,  to  remove,  715. 
Fruited  whipped  cream,   560. 
Fruits,   apples    and   peaches,    dried, 

244. 
apples,  for  dessert,  577. 


INDEX 


749 


Fruits,  bananas  and  cream,  246. 
ways"  for  cooking,  432. 

Bartlett  pears  and  cream,  246. 

cherries,  raw,  245. 

crystallized,  602. 

dried,  how  to  keep,  7. 

for    breakfast.       See     Breakfast 
Fruits. 

for  dessert,  576. 

for  luncheon,  241. 

grapefruit,  221. 

and  strawberries,  246. 
for  dessert,  578. 

grapes,  hot-house,  223. 

green  apples,  knife  to  cut  with, 
242. 

green,  utensils  to  cook  in,  242. 

how  to  keep,  6. 

peaches,   for   dessert,   578. 

pears,  Bartlett,  and  cream,  246. 

pineapple  and   orange,  245. 
and  raspberries,  578. 
and  strawberries,  579. 
picked,  578. 

preserved,  how  to  keep,  7. 

raspberries  and  cream,  246. 

stewed,  for  breakfast,  40,  41. 
vessel  to  use,  617. 

strawberries,  579. 
and  cream,  246. 
and  grapefruit,  246. 

tutti-frutti,  623. 

See    Canned    fruits ;    Jam ;    Jel- 
lies ;    Pies ;    Preserves ;    Pud- 
dings;  Name  of  fruit. 
Frumenty,  540. 
Frying,  time  for,  726. 
Fudge,  chocolate,  591. 

maple,  591. 
Furniture,  hardwood,  to  clean,  702. 

heat  marks  on,  to  remove,  694. 
Fur  rugs,  white,  to  clean,  698. 

GALANTINE,  179. 
defined,  721. 

Game,  Belgian  hares,  420. 
for  breakfast,  129. 
grouse,  roast,  420. 
jelly  sauce  for,  358. 
partridges,  roast,  416. 
pies,  combination,  425. 
pigeon,  426. 
quail,  425. 
rabbit,  424. 
pot-pie,  425. 


Game  pies,  small  birds,  425. 
snipe,  425. 
squirrel,  424. 

pot-pie,  425. 
venison,  426. 
quail,  broiled,  130,  417. 

time   for   cooking,   726. 
in  paper  cases,  time  for  cook- 
ing, 726. 
roasted,  417. 

rabbit,  barbecued,  129,  418. 
broiled,  129. 
casserole  of,  419. 
roast,  418. 
smothered,  129. 
stewed,  419. 

roasted,  endive  salad  to  accom- 
pany, 237. 

small  birds,  broiled,  130. 
spiced     cranberries     to     accom- 
pany, 645. 

squirrels,  barbecued,  423. 
broiled,  422. 
roast,  423. 
stewed,  422. 

Brunswick  stew,  423. 
Virginia  stew,  423. 
venison,  loin,  haunch  or  leg,  416. 
saddle  of,  415. 
steak,   130,  416. 
ways  of  cooking,  415. 
wild  pigeons,  braised,  421. 

stewed,   421. 
turkey,  420. 
woodcock,  broiled,  130. 

roast,  416. 

Garnishes,     baked     browned     pota- 
toes, 469. 

brain  croquettes,  385. 
brains,  fried,  384. 
eggs  for  minced  veal,  172. 
Gelatine.     See  Blanc  Mange. 
Gems,  corn-meal,  73. 
graham,  64. 
See  Muffins. 

German  almond  cookies,  286. 
coffee  bread,  or  cake,  53,  260. 
peppernuts,  289. 
German  potato  pancakes,  133. 
pudding,  533. 
toast,  75. 

wax  beans,  steamed,  436. 
Gherkins,  pickled,  640. 
Giblet  sauce,  359. 
Giblets,  mock  pate  de  foie  gras,  180. 


750 


INDEX 


Ginger  ale  frappe,  616. 

beer,  658. 

jumbles,  289. 

sandwiches,  218. 

wine,  658. 
Gingerbread,  281. 

Aunt  Nelly's,  282. 

currant,  283. 

hard,  282. 

honey,  283. 

molasses,  281. 

mother's,  283. 

raisin,  282. 

soft,  282. 

sour-milk,  283. 
Gingered  pears,  620. 
Ginger-root  preserves,  627. 
Gingersnaps,  289. 
Glaces,  cherries,  245. 

defined,  721. 

fruit  meringue,  586. 

orange    and    banana    meringue, 
586. 

strawberry  surprise,  586. 
Glasgow  broth,  307. 
Glass,  to  clean,  699. 
Glaze,  defined,  721. 
Gloves,  to  clean,  693. 
Gold  cake,  266. 

Golden  buck,  creamed  cheese,  202. 
Goose,  goslings,  braised,  414. 

how  to  carve,  16. 

roast,  413. 

time  for  cooking,  725. 

salmi  of,  414. 
Gooseberries,  canned,  688. 

for  breakfast,  39. 

stewed,  242. 
Gooseberry  jam,  Banbury  tarts,  518. 

pudding,  boiled,  525. 
Goslings,  braised,  414. 
Grafton  cake,  265. 
Graham     and     corn-meal     griddle- 
cakes,  70. 

biscuits,  62. 

bread,  49. 

without  yeast,  53. 

gems,  64. 

griddle-cakes,  71. 

muffins,  65. 

puffs,  64. 

Grandmother's  apple  cake,  263. 
Grape  catsup,  649. 

jelly,  630. 

juice,  656. 


Grape  marmalade,  622. 

wine,  656,  657. 
Grapefruit,  221. 

and  strawberries,  246. 

for  dessert,  578. 
Grapes,  creamed,  599. 

for  breakfast,  39. 

green,  preserved,  628. 

hot-house,  223. 

Jack  Frost,  223. 

spiced,  645. 

Grass  stain,  to  remove,  711. 
Gravy,  cream,  for  boiled  black  bass, 

339- 

for  fried  chicken,  124. 
stock  for,  bones,  4. 
Grease,  machine,  to  take  out,  711. 
Grease-spots,  in  cloth,  to  remove,  706. 

in  white  silk,  to  remove,  699. 
Green  apple  sauce,  hot,  242. 
bean  salad,  240. 
corn  balls,  446. 

croquettes,   447. 

pudding,  445,^446. 

ways  of  cooking,  445. 

See  Corn. 

gages,  canned,  687. 
grape  preserves,  628. 
peas,  boiled,  464. 

broth,  329. 

croquettes,  465. 

fritters,  464. 

pancakes,  464. 

puree,  324,  325. 

souffle,  464. 

soup,  329. 

to  prepare  for  cooking,  463. 
peppers,  fried,  133. 

pickled,  Peter   Piper's,  635. 

pilau  of,  211. 

stuffed,  133,  635. 

toast,  136. 
tomatoes,  broiled,  135. 

curried,  493. 

fried,  135. 

pickled,  637. 

sweet  pickles,  646. 
vegetables,  how  to  keep,  8. 
Greens,   dandelions,  ways  of  cook- 
ing, 451. 

kale,  to  cook,  455. 
spinach,  salad,  238. 

ways  of  cooking,  484. 
Griddle-cakes,  66. 

batter,  use  of  saleratus  in,  13. 


INDEX 


751 


Griddle-cakes,  buckwheat,  66,  67. 
quick,  67. 
sour-milk,  67. 

corn-meal  and  graham,  70. 

feather,  68. 

French  pancakes,  69. 

graham,  71. 

hominy,  70. 

huckleberry,  68. 

Lizzie's  flannel,  68. 

peas,  69. 

rice,  68. 

sour-milk,  69. 
corn-meal,  72. 

stale-bread,  69. 

sweet-corn,  70. 

whole  wheat,  67. 
Griddles,  care  of,  10. 
Gridirons,  care  of,  10. 
Grilled,  defined,  721. 
Grouse,  roast,  420. 

time  for  cooking,  725. 
Gruyere,  defined,  721. 
Guests,    unexpected,   providing   for, 

32. 
Gumbo,  chicken,  310,  311. 

oyster,  311. 

shrimp,  311. 

HADDOCK,  boiled,  time  for  cooking, 

726. 

broiled,  99. 
cutlets,  98. 
fillets,  loo. 
finnan,  broiled,  106. 

defined,  721. 

Hairbrushes,  to  clean,  710. 
Halibut  and  cheese  scallop,  165. 
baked,  342. 
bisque,  317. 

boiled,  time  for  cooking,  726. 
deviled,  166. 
fillets,  100. 

baked,  341. 
steak,  baked,  342. 

with  tomatoes,  343. 

broiled,  100. 

fried,    100. 
Ham  and  chicken  pie,  390. 

and   chicken   sandwiches,   613. 
and    sweet     peppers,     scalloped, 

211. 

and  veal  croquettes,  191. 
baked,  398. 

time  for  cooking,  725. 


Ham,  barbecued,  112,  397. 

boiled,  397. 

cider  sauce  for,  359. 
time  for  cooking,  726. 

breaded,  398. 

champagne  sauce  for,  359. 

corned,  baked,  398. 

fresh,  barbecued,  397. 

mince  turnover,  174. 

minced,  and  eggs,  81. 

omelet,  87. 

rolls  stuffed  with,  612. 

salad,  235,  239. 

sandwiches,  214. 
hot,  219. 

savory,  181. 

stuffed,  399. 

to  cure,  Virginia  recipe,  399. 

toast,  77. 

tomatoes  stuffed  with,  491. 
Hamburg  steaks,  116. 
Hands,  care  of,  708. 

to  soften  and  whiten,  708. 
Hard  gingerbread,  282. 

sauce,  552. 
Hardwood  floors,  care  of,  709. 

furniture,  to  clean,  702. 
Hares,  Belgian,  420. 

Brunswick  stew,  423. 

Virginia  stew,  423. 

See  also,  Rabbit ;  Game. 
Hash,  potato,  fried,  473. 

sandwiches,  217. 
Hasty  pudding,  cornstarch,  526. 
Hats,  straw,  to  clean,  709. 
Heart,  beef,  boiled,  375. 
roast,  376. 

calf's  roast,  380. 
Heat  marks,  to  remove,  694. 
Hem-stitching,   to   draw   thread    in 

linen,  701. 
Hermits,  292. 

Herring  (roe),  smoked,  grilled,  106. 
Hickory-nut  candy,  602. 
Hoarhound  candy,  made  with  dried 
leaves,  596. 

with  fresh  leaves,  596. 
Hollandaise  sauce,  354. 
Home  remedies,  for  colds,  flaxseed 
lemonade,  662. 

for  cough,  flaxseed  tea,  662. 

for  croup,  711. 

for  dysentery,  blackberry  cordi- 
al, 661. 

for  scalds,  187. 


752 


INDEX 


Home    remedies,    for    sore    throat, 
slippery-elm  tea,  662. 

for  whooping  cough,  712. 
Home-made  sausages,  1 13. 
Hominy,  baked,  454. 

boiled,  42,  43. 

cake,  corn-meal,  74. 

croquettes,  191,  455. 

fried,  136. 

fritters,  455. 

griddle-cakes,  70. 

pudding,  plain,  454. 

ways  of  cooking,  454. 
Honey  gingerbread,  283. 
Hornet  sting,  to  draw  poison,  707. 
Hors  d'ceuvres,  denned,  721. 
Horseradish  sauce,  355. 
Hot  cross  buns,  59. 
Hot  tamales,  Mexican,  411. 
Hot-pot,  beef,  373. 
Hotch  potch,  Italian,   173. 

mutton,  386. 
Hot-house  grapes,  223. 
Huckleberries,  for  breakfast,  39. 
Huckleberry  cake,  261. 

griddle-cakes,  68. 

pudding,  522. 

shortcake,  258. 

ICE-CHEST,  ants  in,  to  get  rid  of,  716. 
Ice-cream,  Alaska  bake,  586,  587. 
banana,  whole,  588. 
burnt  almond,  582. 
cafe  parfait,  585. 
chocolate,  582. 
how  to  freeze,  580. 
macaroon,  584. 

mousse,  584. 
maple  frappe,  583. 
Nesselrode  pudding,  583. 
peach,  584,  585. 
pistachio,  583. 
plum  Bavarian,  589. 
raspberry  and  currant,  589. 

crushed,  583. 

mousse,  584. 

parfait,  585. 
strawberry,  crushed,  583. 

mousse,  584. 
tutti-frutti.  587. 
vanilla,  581. 

chocolate  sauce  for,  581. 
Iced  coffee,  653. 

drinks,  utensils  for  making,  659. 
orange  juice,  660. 


Iced  tomato  salad,  236. 
Ices,  berry  sherbet,  587. 
cherry,  588. 
cider,  589. 

fruit  meringue  glace,  586. 
how  to  freeze,  580. 
lemon-and-orange   sherbet,   587. 
maple  frappe,  583. 
orange     and     banana     meringue 

glace,  586. 

strawberry  surprise,   586. 
See  Frappes. 
Icing  for  peppernuts,  291. 

See  Frostings. 
Ideal  crullers,  294. 
India  relish,  637,  638. 
Indian  and  rye  bread,  50. 
meal.     See  Corn-meal, 
pudding,  baked,  534. 

boiled,  521,  522. 

Informal  teas,  menus  for,  606,  607. 
Ink,  dry,  to  remove  from  carpet,  704. 
fresh,  to  remove  from  carpet,  715. 
stains  on  fingers,  to  remove,  185. 
Insect  sting,  to  draw  poison,  707. 
Invalids,  dishes  for, 

arrowroot  blanc  mange,  563. 

boiled  eggs,  78. 

boiled  rice  with  milk  and  egg, 

543- 

broiled  chicken,  124,  406,  407. 
celery  soup,  328. 
chicken  broth,  336. 
cream  toast,  76. 
cup  custards,  boiled,  555. 
egg  soup,  333. 
fresh  pork  bad  for,  4. 
.milk  toast,  75. 
oyster  stew,  148. 
oyster  toast,  77. 
poached  eggs,  78. 
potatoes    on    half-shell,    208, 

470. 

quail,  broiled,  130,  417. 
rice  blanc  mange,  570. 
rice,  boiled,  43,  44,  479. 
rice  jelly,  572. 
soft  toast,  205. 
stewed  celery  root,  444. 
stuffed  potatoes,  470. 
tapioca  jelly,  572. 
vegetable  soup,  322-333. 
wine  jelly,  574. 
drinks  for, 

apple  tea,  662. 


INDEX 


753 


Invalids,  drinks  for,  beef  juice,  313. 

beef  tea,  314. 

blackberry  cordial,  661. 

chocolate,  653. 

cocoa,  653. 

dandelion  cordial,  658. 

dandelion  wine,  658. 

egg-nog,  662. 

flaxseed  lemonade,  662. 

flaxseed  tea,  662. 

grape  juice,  656. 

grape  wine,  656,  657. 

iced  orange  juice,  660. 

milk-shake,   660. 

raspberry  cordial,  661. 

sarsaparilla  wine,  659. 

slippery-elm  tea,  662. 

tea,  hot,  652. 

toast  water,  661. 
Irish  potato  pie,  514. 

stew,  182. 

Iron  rust,  to  remove,  703. 
Italian  artichokes,  boiled,  431. 

fried,  431. 

with  sauce  tartare,  431. 
cabbage,  441. 
cream,  565. 
hotch-potch,  173. 
pancakes,   548. 
See  Jerusalem  artichokes. 

JAM,  Banbury  tarts,  518. 

berry,  622. 

omelet,  247. 

peach,  621. 

raspberry  (red),  623. 
Jardiniere,  defined,  721. 
Jellied  chicken,  176. 

tongue,  175. 
Jellies,  how  to  keep,  7. 
Jelly,  apple,  632. 

berry,  622. 

cider,  567. 

coffee,  572. 

crabapple,  631. 

cranberry,  631. 

currant,  630. 

fox-grape,  629. 

grape,  630. 

orange,  571. 

pancakes,  549. 

peach,  621,  631. 

prune  and  nut,  574. 

quince,  630. 

raspberry,  572. 

48 


Jelly,  rhubarb,  631. 

rice,  572. 

roll,  270. 
Jelly  sauce,  358,  553. 

tapioca,  572. 

tutti-frutti,  of  canned  fruit,  574. 

wine,  574. 

Jersey  pancakes,  548. 
Jerusalem  artichokes,  baked,  430. 
boiled,  430. 

See  Italian  artichokes. 
Jet  trimming,  to  clean,  706. 
Johnny-cakes,  74. 
Julienne,  defined,  721. 

soup,  311. 
Jumbles,  ginger,  289. 

See  Small  cakes. 
Jumboyla,  350. 
Junket,  567. 

coffee,  568. 

vanilla,  568. 

KALE,  to  cook,  455. 
Kartoffelklosse  (potato  balls),  476. 
Kerosene,  spilled  on  floor,  what  to 

do,  186. 
uses  for,  698. 
Kettles,  care  of,  9. 
Kid  gloves,  to  clean,  693. 
Kidneys,  a  la  brochette,  120. 
and  mushrooms,  118. 
broiled,  119. 
fried,  119. 

how  to  buy  and  prepare,  118. 
minced,  and  eggs,  8l. 
pie,  392. 
sautes,  1 20. 
savory,  118. 
stewed,  119. 

brown  stew,  118. 

Kitchen,  how  to  arrange  and   fur- 
nish, 137. 
sink,  care  of,  n. 
stove,  construction  of,  712. 

how  to  build  fire  in,  713,  714. 
screen  for,   138. 
table,  zinc  covering,  137. 
utensils,  care  of,  9. 
kind  to  buy,  138. 
of  tin,  to  keep  from  rusting, 

710. 

Kleiner,  269. 
Kohlrabi  turnips,  495. 
with  leaves,  495. 


754 


INDEX 


Koumiss,  660. 
defined,  721. 

LACE,  black,  to  clean,  700. 
curtains,  to  dry-clean,  707. 
white,  to  dry-clean,  701. 
yellow,  to  clean,  699. 
Lamb  and  peas,  stewed,  387. 
Brunswick  stew,  423. 
chops,  128. 

broiled,  time  for  cooking,  726. 
casserole  of,  195,  387. 
curried,  172. 
fat,  697. 

how  to  select,  3. 
jelly  sauce  for,  358. 
mince  turnover,  174. 
minced,  and  rice,  173. 
baked,  171. 
roast,  386. 
claret     or     Bordelaise    sauce 

for,  357. 

mint  sauce  for,  356. 
time  for  cooking,  725. 
sandwiches,  215. 
season  for,  3. 
shoulder,  stuffed,  386. 
to  carve,  16. 

tomatoes  stuffed  with,  491. 
Virginia  stew,  423. 
Lamb's  brain  croquettes,  190. 

liver  and  rice,  casserole  of,  195. 
how  to  select,  5. 
larded,  381. 

mock  pate  de  foie  gras,  180. 
tongue,  barbecued,  128. 
Lard,  use  in  preserving  eggs,  6. 
Lardoon,  defined,  721. 
Laudanum,  antidote  for,  712. 
Laundry-marks,  to  remove,  702. 
Lawns,  black,  starch  for,  709. 
Laxatives,  rhubarb  and  figs,  241. 
Layer  cake,  chocolate  frosting,  278. 
cocoanut  and  citron,  267. 
daisy,  272. 
foundation  for,  275. 
marshmallow,  274. 
t  fill  ing  for,  275. 
Minnehaha,  274. 

filling  for,  274. 
mocha,  273. 

filling  for,  274. 
orange,  271. 

filling  for,  271. 
time  for  baking,  727. 


Layer-cake,  white  mountain,  273. 
filling  for,  273. 
See  Fillings. 

Leather,  patent,  to  polish,  705. 
to  keep  from  cracking,  703. 
"Left-overs," 

asparagus  and  shrimp  salad,  237. 
bean  and  tomato  soup,  326. 
beef  and  potato  pie,  391. 

and  tomato  pie,  391. 

croquettes,  192. 

curried,  171. 

rechauffe,  a  la  jardiniere,  368. 

roast,  underdone,  how  to  use 
"P,  37i. 

tomatoes  stuffed  with,  491. 

sandwiches,  215. 

with  sauce  piquante,  174. 
beet  salad,  230. 
brain  croquettes,  190. 
carrot  croquettes,  442. 
cauliflower  salad,  230. 
celery  croquettes,  192. 

roots,  stewed,  444. 
cnicken  and  eggs,  scalloped,  168. 

and  ham,  minced,  baked,  171. 

and  macaroni,  457. 

and  macaroni,  creamed,  197. 

and  macaroni  croquettes,  190. 

club  sandwiches,  220. 

creamed,  125,  196. 

croquettes,  189. 

fritters,  124. 

imitation  terrapin,  126. 

Mexican  hot  tamales,  411. 

mince  turnovers,  174. 

minced,  on  half-shell,  125. 

mock  casseroles  of,  196. 

omelet,  125. 

salad,  226. 

sandwiches,  214. 

scallops  of,  197. 

timbales,  168. 

tomatoes  stuffed  with,  491. 
cod,  deviled,  166. 
codfish  balls,  104. 

creamed,  104. 
corn  and  potatoes,  473. 

and  tomato  salad,  235. 

and  tomatoes,  447,  491. 

and  tomatoes,  scalloped,  447. 

balls,  446. 

croquettes,  447. 

fritters,  446. 


INDEX 


755 


"Left-overs,"  corn  omelet,  448. 
corn  pudding,  445,  446. 

tomatoes   stuffed   with,  492. 
cottage  pie,  181. 
crab  cutlets,  98. 
crabs  and  champignons,  156. 

deviled,  155. 

en  coquille,  156. 
duck,  Creole  salmi  of,  -405. 
fish  croquettes,  191. 

cutlets,  98. 

Lenten  salad,  238. 

omelet,  87. 

peppers  stuffed  with,  466. 

"pick-up"  of,  164. 

scallop,  164. 
fishballs,  104. 
goose,  salmi  of,  414. 
green-bean  salad,  240. 
green-pea  croquettes,  465. 
fritters,  464. 
pancakes,  209,  464. 
souffle,   464. 
halibut  and  cheese  scallop,  165. 

deviled,  166. 
ham  and  eggs,  mince  of,  81. 

and  sweet  peppers,  scalloped, 
211. 

and  veal  croquettes,  191. 

mince  turnovers,  174. 

omelet,  87. 

salad,  235,  239. 

sandwiches,  214. 

savory,  181. 

tomatoes  stuffed  with,  491. 
hash  sandwiches,  217. 
hominy,  baked,  454. 

croquettes,  191,  455. 

fried,  136. 

fritters,  455. 
lamb   and    ham,   minced,  baked, 

.  I?1- 
mince  turnovers,  174. 

minced,  and  rice,  173. 

sandwiches,  215. 

tomatoes  stuffed  with,  491. 
liver  and  rice,  casserole  of,  195. 

salmi  of,  381. 
lobster,  creamed,  154. 

croquettes,  189. 

curried,  154. 

cutlets,  98,  154. 

deviled,  155. 

salad,  226. 


"Left-overs,"     lobster     sandwiches, 
219. 

scalloped,  155. 
macaroni  and  chicken,  457. 

rissoles,  458. 

tomato  stuffed  with,  492. 
Macedoine  salad,  231. 
meat,  cottage  pie,  181. 

Italian  hotch-potch,  173. 

mince  turnovers,  174. 

minced,  baked,  171.  ^ 

tomatoes  stuffed  with,  491. 
mince,  baked,  171. 

savory,   169. 

turnovers,  174. 
mutton  mince  with  tomatoes,    178. 

minced,  128. 

and  tomato  toast,  128. 

sandwiches,  215. 

tomatoes  stuffed  with,  491. 
oatmeal,  43. 
pea  pancakes,  209. 
peppers,  stuffed,  133,  466,  635. 

stuffed  with  fish,  466. 
potato  and  nut  croquettes,  192. 

croquettes,  132,  191,  470. 

fritters,  471. 

hash,  fried,  473. 

omelet,  132,  475. 

puff,  208. 

salad,  230. 

scallop,  207,  471. 
potatoes  a  la  duchesse,  472. 

a  la  Lyonnaise,  131,  472. 

and  corn,  473. 

savory,  473. 

scalloped,  207,  471. 
rice  and  cheese  pudding,  198,  211. 

and  liver,  casserole  of,  195. 

buttered,  209,  479. 

croquettes,  190,  480. 

omelet,  86. 

tomatoes  stuffed  with,  492. 
salad  sandwiches,  216. 
salmon  croquettes,  99. 

loaf,  99- 
shad,  creamed,  164. 

croquettes,  95. 

scalloped,  96. 

shrimp  and  asparagus  salad,  237. 
squash,  baked,  486. 

pancakes,  487. 

scalloped,  487. 
stock,  304. 


756 


INDEX 


"Left-overs,"  string  beans,   savory, 

437- 

sweet    peppers    and    ham,    scal- 
loped, 211. 
sweet  potato  croquettes,  478. 

puff,  209,  478. 

sweet  potatoes  and  bacon,  scal- 
loped, 477- 

an  gratin,  208,  478. 
sweetbread  sandwiches,  219. 
sweetbreads,  creamed,  122. 
tomato  and  bean  soup,  326. 

and  corn  salad,  235. 

croquettes,  490. 
tomatoes  and  corn,  447,  491. 

and  corn,  scalloped,  447. 

stuffed  with  corn,  492. 
with  macaroni,  492. 
with  meat,  491. 
with  rice,  492. 
tongue  and  eggs,  mince  of,  81. 

breaded,   with   tomato   sauce, 
i8z. 

cold,  how  to  use,  179. 

Italian  entree,  375.  , 

salad,  235. 

sandwiches,  219. 

tomatoes  stuffed  with,  491. 
turkey   and   oysters,    scallop    of, 
402. 

and  sausage  pudding,  403. 

croquettes,  126,  189. 

fillets  of,  with  rice,  401. 

ragout  of,  403. 

roast,  rechauffe,  402. 

salad,  226. 

scallops,  126,  197. 

timbales,  168. 
"turkey  rack"  soup,  312. 
veal  and  ham  croquettes,  191. 

and  ham,  minced,  baked,  171. 

and  spaghetti  croquettes,  190. 

croquettes,  189. 

loaf,  175. 

mince  turnovers,  174. 

minced,  garnished  with  eggs, 
172. 

pressed,  175. 

salad,  239. 

"toss-up"  of,  172. 

Lemon  and  orange  sherbet,  587. 
butter,  596. 
cake,  272. 
cookies,  286. 
cream  pie,  507. 


Lemon  marmalade,  623. 
pie  with  crust,  507. 

without  crust,  508. 
sauce  for  fish,  97. 

for  puddings,  552. 
souffle,  543. 
tarts,  517. 
wafers,  616. 
Lemonade,  655. 
flaxseed,  662. 
frosted,  615. 
lively,  655. 
Lenten  salad,  238. 
Lentil  soup,  329. 
Lentils,  defined,  721. 
Lettuce    and    cream    cheese    sand- 
wiches, 614. 
and  tomato  salad,  229. 
salad,  simple,  229. 
sandwiches,  218. 
brunette,  214. 
with  cottage  cheese,  216. 
soup,  328. 

cream  of,  322. 
Library  paste,  695. 
Lima  beans,  435. 

boiled,  time  for  cooking,  727. 
canned,  692. 
soup,  332. 

with  white  sauce,  435. 
Linens,  care  of,  23. 

claret  or  fruit  stains  on,  715. 
mildewed,  to  clean,  716. 
to  draw  thread  in,  701. 
to  remove  iron  rust  from,  703. 
Linoleum,  to  clean,  705. 
"Linsen"  soup,  329. 
Lively  lemonade,  655. 
Liver  and  bacon,  122. 

and  rice,  casserole  of,  195. 
beef,  stewed,  117. 
broiled,  en  brochette,  122. 
time  for  cooking,  726. 
calf's,  a  la  jardiniere,  383. 
casserole  of,  384. 
larded,  baked,  180. 

time  for  cooking,  725. 
fried,  123. 

how  to  select,  5,  122. 
lamb's  and  calf's  compared,  5. 
larded,  381. 
minced,  123. 

mock  pate  de  foie  gras,  180,  181. 
salmi  of,  381. 
Lizzie's  flannel-cakes,  68. 
Loaf  bread,  time  for  baking,  727. 


INDEX 


757 


Loaf  cake,  chocolate,  266. 
plain,  275. 

frosting  for,  278. 
time  for  baking,  728. 
sponge,  time  for  baking,  728. 
salmon,  99. 

Lobster  a  la  Newburg,  154,  347. 
and  champignons   (mushrooms), 

156. 

baked  in  shell,  346. 
bisque,  315. 

boiled,  time  for  cooking,  726. 
broiled  in  shell,  346. 
canned,  to  prepare  for  use,  155. 
creamed,  154. 
croquettes,  189. 
curry  of,  154. 
cutlets,  98,  154. 
deviled,  155. 
salad,  226. 
sandwiches,  219. 
sauce,  355. 
scalloped,  155. 

in  shells,  347. 
timbales,  154. 

"Long"  clam  chowder,  334. 
Luncheon,  appetizers  for,  221. 
cakes  for,  258. 
cheese-dishes  for,  198. 
dishes  for,  145. 
en  famille,  143. 

formal,  manner  of  serving,  667. 
menus  for,  666,  667. 
to  set  table  for,  666. 
fruits  for,  241. 
manner  of  waiting,  20,  2l. 
to  set  table  for,  20,  21,  666. 
vegetables  for,  207. 
Lyonnaise  potatoes,  131,  472- 

MACARONI,  a  la  Napolitaine,  459- 
and  chicken,  457. 
and  chicken  croquettes,  190. 
and  creamed  chicken,  197. 
and  oysters,  151. 
and  tomatoes,  457. 
baked,  456. 

boiled,  time  for  cooking,  727. 
creamed,  456. 
in  cheese  shell,  203. 
piquante,  458. 
pudding,  535- 
rissoles,  458. 
soup,  332. 

spaghetti  with  Swiss  cheese,  458. 
tomatoes  stuffed  with,  492. 


Macaroni  with  cheese  sauce,  457. 
Macaroon  Charlotte  Russe,  563. 

ice  cream,  584. 

mousse,  584. 
Macaroons,  574. 

almond,  284. 

cocoanut,  284. 

whipped  cream  with,  561. 
Macedoine  salad,  231. 
Mackerel,  fresh,  baked,  343. 

salt,  boiled,  105. 
broiled,   105. 
Madeira  sauce,  554. 

wine,    temperature    to    serve   at, 

673; 

Maitre  d'hotel  sauce,  356. 
Mange  in  cats,  to  cure,  701. 
Mangoes,  stuffed,  635. 
Maple  candy,  590. 

caramels,  590. 

frappe,  583. 

fudge,  591. 

nut  candy,  602. 

sauce,  hot,  for  vanilla  ice  cream, 

582. 

Maraschino  sauce,  553. 
Marble  cake,  276. 
Marble,  to  clean,  699,  711. 
Marguerites,  613. 
Marinate,  To,  denned,  723. 
Marketing,  3. 

choosing  meats,  3,  4. 

choosing  poultry,  5. 
Marmalade,  grape,  622. 

lemon,  623. 

omelet  with,  248. 

orange,  622. 

peach,  623. 

sandwiches,  218. 
Marrons,  denned,  721. 

with  whipped  cream,  561. 

See  Chestnuts. 
Marshmallow  filling,  279. 

layer  cake,  274. 

filling  for,  275. 
Marshmallows,  601. 

chocolate,  595. 
Martinia  pickles,  636. 
Mary's  crullers,  294.- 

favorite  pudding,  526. 
Maryland  terrapin,  158. 
Match  marks,  to  remove,  695. 
Matzoon,  657. 
Mayonnaise,  defined,  721- 

dressing,  225. 


758 


INDEX 


Mayonnaise    dressing,    curdled,    to 

save,  716. 
salmon,  162,  228. 
sardine,  228. 
Mead,  659. 

Meal-and-flour  porridge,  44. 
Meals,  announcing,  22. 
Measures  and  weights,  724. 
Meat,  buying,  3. 

for  breakfast,  no. 
how  to  keep,  7. 
how  to  select,  3,  5. 
kinds,  3,  4,  5. 
mince,  baked,  171. 
savory,  169. 
turnover,  174. 
pies,  beef  and  potato,  391. 
beef  and  tomato,  391. 
beefsteak,  392. 
cottage,  181. 
ham  and  chicken,  390. 
kidney,  392. 
mutton  chop,  393. 
pork,  English,  394. 
New  England,  394. 
small,  393. 
sweetbread,  392. 
veal,  390,  391. 
chop,  393. 
tainted,  to  sweeten,   12,   13,  696, 

716. 
time    for    baking    and    roasting, 

725- 

for  boiling,  725. 
for  broiling,  726. 
for  frying,  726. 
to  braise,  meaning,  723. 
tomatoes  stuffed  with,  491. 
tough,  to  make  tender,  13,  695, 

696. 

ways  of  cooking,  367. 
See  Name  of  meat;  Sauces  for 
fish  and  meat;    "Left-overs." 
Melons  for  breakfast,  40. 
nutmeg,  pickled,  639. 
watermelon-rind  pickles,  639. 

preserves,  626. 
Menus,  defined,  721. 
for  brown  dinner,  675. 
for  chafing-dish  suppers,  678,  679. 
for  dinners,  669-671. 
for  evening  suppers,  677. 
for  formal  breakfast,  664. 
luncheons,  666,  667. 
teas,  608,  609. 


Menus  for  green  and  white  dinner, 
674. 

for  informal  teas,  606,  607. 

for  pink  dinner,  674. 

for  yellow  dinner,  675. 
Meringue,  defined,  721. 

sauce,  552. 
Mexican  hot  tamales,  411. 

kisses,  592. 

Mice  and  rats,  to  get  rid  of,  701. 
Mildew,  to  remove,  706. 

from  linen,  716. 
Milk  and  water  biscuits,  61. 
Milk  biscuits,  61. 

bread,  48. 

frosting,  278. 

hot,  tea  cakes,  612. 

junket,  567. 
coffee,  568. 

matzoon,  657. 

porridge,  44. 

shake,  660. 

to   prevent    curdling    in   boiling, 
716. 

to  remove  from  carpet  or  cloth, 
715. 

toast,  baked,  75. 

Mince,  baked,  171. 

meat,  to  make,  505. 

pies,  505. 
mock,  515. 

savory,  169. 

turnover,  174. 
Minnehaha  cake,  274. 

filling  for,  274. 
Mint  punch,  654. 

sandwiches,  219. 

sauce,  356. 
Minute  pudding,  540. 
Mirrors,  to  clean,  699,  711. 
Mixed  mustard,  651. 
Mocha  cake,  273. 

filling  for,  274. 
Mock  casseroles  of  chicken,  196. 

cherry      pie       (cranberry      and 
raisin),  512. 

fried  oysters,  483. 

mince  pie,  515. 

pate  de  foie  gras,  180. 

roast  chicken,  176.- 

scalloped  oysters,  483. 

squabs,  379. 

terrapin,  126. 

turtle  soup,  304,  383. 


INDEX 


759 


Molasses  candy,  592. 

peanut,  598. 
cookies,  288. 
gingerbread,  281. 
stick  candy,  593. 
taffy,  593- 
"velvets,"  593. 

Mold  on  books,  to  prevent,  707. 
Morphine,  antidote  for,  712. 
Mosquito  bites,  to  draw  poison,  707. 
Mother's  doughnuts,  293. 

gingerbread,  283. 
Mousses,  defined,  721. 
macaroon,  584. 
raspberry,  584. 
strawberry,  584. 
Mucilage,  library  paste,  695. 
Mud  stains,  to  remove  from  black 

cloth,  707. 
Muffins,    baking-powder,    time    for 

baking,  727. 
corn-meal  gems,  73. 
English,  60. 

crumpets,  60,  61. 
graham,  65. 
gems,  64. 
puffs,  64. 
oatmeal,  63. 
popovers,  65. 
raised,  60. 
rice,  65, 

risen  brunette,  63. 
Sally's,  63. 

two-and-two  Indian  meal,  73- 
whole-wheat,  63. 
yeast,  time  for  baking,  728. 
Mulligatawney  soup,  308. 
Mush,  corn-meal,  42,  45. 
fried,  and  bacon,  HI. 
Mushroom  catsup,  650. 
omelet,  baked,  83. 
sauce  for  braised  tongue,  375. 

for  veal  steaks,  378. 
Mushrooms  and  beefsteak,  116. 
and  broiled  sweetbreads,  121. 
and  crabs,  156. 
and  kidneys,  118. 
and  lobsters,  156. 
and  minced  veal,  172. 
and  oysters,  150. 
and  scallop  of  shrimps,  157. 
baked,  213,  460. 
.broiled,  135,  459- 
buying,  459. 
dried,  and  eggs,  213. 


Mushrooms,  fricasseed,  460. 
fried,  135,  460. 
on  toast,  77,  135,  212. 
stewed,  460. 

Muskelonge,  stuffed,  340. 
Mustard,  mixed,  651. 
Mutton,  best  cuts,  3. 

boiled,  celery  sauce  for,  355. 

time  for  cooking,  726. 
chop  pie,  393. 

chops,  broiled,  time  for  cooking, 
726. 

casserole  of,  195. 

French,  3. 

loin,  3. 
curried,  172. 
fat,  697. 
fore-quarter,  3. 
hotch-potch,  386. 
how  to  carve,  16. 
how  to  select,  3. 
Irish  stew,  182. 
jelly  sauce  for,  358. 
leg  of,  roast,  sorrel  sauce,  385. 
time  for  cooking,  725. 

boiled,  385. 
minced,  128. 

and  tomato  toast,  128. 

with  tomatoes,  178. 
saddle,   roast,  time   for  cooking, 

725: 

sandwiches,  215. 
season  for,  3. 
shoulder,  roast,  386. 

stuffed,  baked,  time  for  cook- 
ing, 725- 
soup,  plain,  386. 
stewed,  and  peas,  173. 
to  make  tender,  13. 
tomatoes  stuffed  with,  491. 
ways  of  cooking,  385. 
with  sauce  piquante,  174. 

NAPKINS,  claret  or  fruit  stains  on, 

715. 

mildewed,  to  clean,  716. 
Nasturtium  salad,  233. 

sandwiches,  217. 
Nesselrode  pudding,  583. 
Nest,  sweetbreads  in,  170. 
Nesting  eggs,  84. 
New  England  blueberry  pie,  513. 
pork  pie,  394. 
pot-roast,  372. 
New  Jersey  baked  beans,  434. 


760 


INDEX 


Nonpareil  Welsh  rarebit,  202. 
Noodles,  defined,  721. 

for  soup,  332. 
Nougat,  598. 

defined,  721. 
Nut  and  apple  salad,  232. 

and  cheese  sandwiches,  218. 

and  date  sandwiches,  217. 

and  fig  sandwiches,  218. 

and  orange  salad,  231. 

and  potato  croquettes,  192. 

and  prune  jelly,  574. 

cake,  275. 

hermits,  292. 

candies,  burnt  almonds,  creamed, 

599- 
creamed  English  walnut,  597. 

fondant  for,  598. 
French  cream  almonds,  597. 
hickory  nut,  602. 
maple,  602. 
molasses  walnut,  593. 
nougat,  598. 
peanut,  598. 
peanut  brittle,  601. 

molasses,  598. 
peanuts,  sugared,  599. 
penotchie,  592. 
walnut  creams,  597. 
sandwiches,  215. 
Nutmeg  melons,  for  breakfast,  40. 

pickled,  639. 
Nuts,  almonds,  salted,  612. 

chestnuts,  ways  of  cooking,  450. 

with  whipped  cream,  559. 
ways  of  preparing,  496. 

OATMEAL,  42,  43. 

cookies,  285. 

how  to  keep,  7. 

"left-overs,"  43. 

muffins,  63. 

parkin,  263. 

scones,  610. 
Odors  from  cooking,  prevention,  186. 

from  decaying  vegetables,  6. 

of  paint,  to  get  rid  of,  704. 

to  kill,  703. 

Oil-cloth,  to  clean,  705. 
Oil  paintings,  to  clean,  703. 
Okra  soup,  326. 
Old-fashioned  bread  pudding,  536. 

sponge  cake,  267. 
Olive  and  cheese  sandwiches,  613. 

and  egg  sandwiches,  613. 


Olive  oil  pickles,  646. 

sandwiches,  216. 

sauce,  360. 

Olla  podrida  omelet,  86. 
Omelets,  apple  sauce,  baked,  247. 

aux  fines  herbes,  83. 

baked,  167. 

bread  (baked),  82. 

caches,  167. 

cheese,  85. 

chicken,  125. 

clam,  83. 

corn,  448. 

English,  82. 

fish,  87. 

ham,  87. 

jam,  247. 

mushroom,  baked,  83. 

olla  podrida,  86. 

orange,  248. 

oyster,  83. 

parsley,  83. 

potato,  132,  475. 

rice,  86. 

simple,  82. 

soufHe,  247. 
sweet,  542. 

sweet,  247. 

tomato,  493. 

with  marmalade,  248. 

with  tomato  sauce,  82. 
One-egg  cake,  277. 
Onion  custard,  463. 

sauce,  356. 

soup,  cream  of,  320. 

French,  312. 
Onions  and  beefsteak,  116. 

baked,  462. 

boiled,  462. 

time  for  cooking,  727. 

odors  from,  how  to  prevent,  186. 

pickled,  634. 

scalloped,  463. 

stuffed,  creamed,  463. 

young,  savory,  462. 

stewed,  461. 
Opera  caramels,  594. 
Opium,  antidote  for,  712. 
Orange  and  banana  meringue  glace, 
586. 

and  cocoanut  delight,  562. 

and  lemon  sherbet,  587. 

and  nut  salad,  231. 

and  pineapple,  245. 

cheese  cakes,  517. 


INDEX 


Orange  cream,  559. 

custard,  558. 

dumplings,  551. 

fritters,  545. 

jelly,  571. 

juice,  iced,  660. 

layer  cake,  271. 
filling  for,  271. 

marmalade,  622. 

omelet,  248. 

peel,  candied,  600. 

pie,  509. 

pudding,  baked,  530. 
sauce  for,  531. 
boiled,  523. 
steamed,  523. 

salad,  232. 

sauce,  531. 

shortcake,  259. 

souffle,  543. 

straws,  600. 

Orangeade,  frozen,  615. 
Oranges,  for  breakfast,  38. 

fruit  basket,  221. 
Ox-tail  soup,  306. 
Oyster  bisque,  314. 

canapes,  351. 

cocktails,  150,  221. 

croquettes,  188. 

cutlets,  351. 

forcemeat,  baked  smelts  with,  163. 

fritters,  349. 

gumbo,  311. 

omelet,  83. 

pates,  150,  348. 
deviled,  145. 

pie,  150,  349. 

salad,  227. 

sauce,  354. 

sautes,  152. 

scallops,  147. 

soup,  335. 

stuffing,  for  turkey,  401. 

toast,  77. 

Oyster-plant,  boiled,  time  for  cook- 
ing, 727. 

croquettes,  193. 

See  Salsify. 

Oysters   and   bacon    (pigs    in   blan- 
kets), 151. 

and  porterhouse  steak,  178. 

and  tripe,  stewed,  115. 

baked,  151. 

broiled,  146. 

with  brown  sauce,  146. 


Oysters,  creamed,  145. 

and  baked,  147. 
curried,  149. 
fricasseed,  145. 
fried,  147. 

in  batter,  148. 

mock,  483. 
how  to  select,  5. 
jumboyla,  350. 
panned,  149. 

and  creamed,  149. 
and  deviled,  149. 
pickled,  350. 
pigs  in  blankets,  151. 
raw,  222. 
scalloped,  147. 

mock,  483. 
steamed,  149. 
stewed,  148. 

time  for  cooking,  726. 
with  macaroni,  151. 
with  mushrooms,  150. 
with  Parmesan  cheese,  351. 

PAINT,  match  marks  on,  to  remove, 

695. 

smell  of,  to  get  rid  of,  704. 

to  clean,  699. 

Paintings,  oil,  to  clean,  703. 
Palms,  to  keep,  703. 
Pancakes,  green  pea,  464. 

Italian,  548. 

jelly,  549- 

Jersey,  548. 

pea,  209,  464. 

potato,  German,  133. 

risen,  548. 

squash,  487. 

See  Griddle-cakes. 
Pan-fish,  to  fry,  98. 
Pans,  care  of,  9. 

Pantry,  supplies  for  emergencies,  32. 
Paprika,  defined,  721. 
Parfait  cafe,  585. 

raspberry,  585. 
Parker  house  rolls,  55. 
Parkin,  263. 

Parmesan  cheese,  oysters  with,  351. 
Parsley  omelet,  83. 

sauce,  359. 
Parsnips,  497. 

boiled,  time  for  cooking,  727. 
Partridges,  roast,  416. 

time  for  cooking,  725. 
Paste,  library,  695. 


INDEX 


Pastry,  for  pies,  503. 

time  for  baking,  728. 
Pate,  defined,  721. 

de  foie  gras,  defined,  721. 

mock,  1 80. 
Pates,  clam,  153. 

oyster,  150,  348. 
deviled,  145. 

spinach,  486. 

sweetbread,  170. 
Patent  leather,  shoes,  to  keep,  705. 

to  polish,  705. 
Peach  batter  pudding,  baked,  530. 

butter,  621. 

dumplings,  550. 

fritters,  546. 

ice  cream,  584,  585. 

jam,  621. 

jelly,  621,  631. 

marmalade,  623. 

meringue  glace,  586. 
pie,  511. 

pie,  creamed,  511. 

whole  peaches,  511. 

preserves,  624. 

pudding,  canned  peaches,  533. 

salad,  239. 

scallop,  536. 

sponge,  560,  565. 

tapioca,  560. 

trifle,  569. 
Peaches  and  apples,  dried,  244. 

bran  died,  629. 

candied,  629. 

canned,  686. 

creamed,  246. 

evaporated,  stewed,  619. 

for  breakfast,  39. 

for  dessert,  578. 

pickled,  sweet,  642-. 

pickled,  unpeeled,  sweet,  642. 

stewed,  618,  619. 
Peanut  and  tomato  salad,  236. 

brittle,  601. 

butter,  for  sandwiches,  613. 

candy,  598. 

cookies,  287. 

crisps,  612. 

croquettes,  451. 

molasses  candy,  598. 

sandwiches,  215. 

stuffing  for  roast  duck,  497. 
Peanuts,  sugared,  599. 
Pears  and  cream,  246. 

care  of,  6. 


Pears,  dried,  stewed,  620. 

for  breakfast,  39. 

gingered,  620. 

imitation  East  India  sweetmeats, 
626. 

preserved,  627. 

salad,  236. 

seckel,  canned,  686. 

stewed,  618,  620. 

unpeeled,  canned,  686. 
Peas  and  lamb,  stewed,  387. 

and  mutton,  stewed,  173. 

boiled,  time  for  cooking,  727. 

broth  (green  pea),  329. 

dried,  care  of,  6. 

green,  ways  of  cooking,  463. 

griddle-cakes,  69. 

how  to  keep,  6. 

pancakes,  209. 

salad,  240. 

soup,  cream  of,  321. 
green  pea,  329. 
split  pea,  324,  328. 

See  Green  peas. 
Penotchie,  592. 
Pepper  vinegar,  651. 
Peppernuts,  289,  290. 

brown,  290. 

German,  289. 

icing  for,  291. 

white,  290. 
Peppers  and  rice,  467. 

buttered  rice  with,  211. 

fried,  133,  465. 

green,  fried,  133. 
pilau  of,  211. 
stuffed,  133. 

pickled  hash,  636. 

pickled,  Peter  Piper's,  635. 

scalloped,  au  gratin,  466. 
on  half-shell,  467. 

stuffed,  133,  466,  635. 
with  fish,  466. 

sweet,  and  bacon,  112. 

and  ham,  scalloped,  211. 
Perch,  fried,  98. 

Peter  Piper's  pickled  peppers,  635. 
Pfefferniisse,  289. 
Philadelphia  scrapple,  197. 
Piano  keys,  to  clean,  708. 
Piccalilli,  649. 
Pickerel,  baked,  344. 

boned,  baked,  345. 

fried,  with  cream  sauce,  101. 
Pickled  pepper  hash,  636. 


INDEX 


763 


Pickled  pork,  399. 

cake,  269. 

to  keep  sweet,  14. 
Pickles,  butternut,  634. 
cherries,  636. 
chow-chow,  641. 
cucumber,  633. 

ripe,  640. 

sliced,  634. 
dill,  647. 
gherkins,  640. 
how  to  seal  jars,  633. 
India  relish,  637,  638. 
mangoes,  stuffed,  635. 
Martinia,  636. 
nutmeg  melon,  639. 
olive  oil,  646. 
onion,  634. 

pepper  hash,  pickled,  636. 
peppers,  Peter  Piper's,  635. 

stuffed,  635. 
piccalilli,  649. 
red  cabbage,  641. 
string  beans,  637. 
tomatoes   (green),  637. 
utensils  to  use  in  making,  633. 
watermelon  rind,  639. 
See  also,  Catsups ;  Sweet  pickles, 
"Pick-up"  of  fish  (left-overs),  164. 
Pie,  apple,  creamed  sweet,  510. 

meringue,  510. 

sliced,  509. 

apple-sauce,  creamed,  510. 
Banbury  tarts,  518. 
berry,  combination,  513. 
blackberry,  513. 

blueberry,  New  England,  513. 
cherry,  512. 

mock,  512. 

tarts,  517. 
chocolate,  508,  509. 
clam,  350. 
cocoanut,  508. 
cottage,  181. 
cranberry,  512. 

and  raisin,  512. 

tarts,  517. 
crumb,  515. 
currant,  513. 

tarts,  516. 
custard,  509,  516. 
fried  tartlets,  518. 
Irish  potato,  514. 
lemon  cream,  507. 

tarts,  517. 


Pie,  lemon  tarts  with  crust,  507. 

without  crust,  508. 
mince,  505. 

mock,  515. 
orange,  509. 

cheese  cakes,  517. 
oyster,  150,  349. 
pastry  for,  503. 

family  pie  crust,  503. 
puff  paste,  503. 
.time  for  baking,  728. 
peach,  creamed,  511. 
meringue,  511. 
whole,  511. 
pumpkin,  506,  507. 
raspberry,   creamed,   511. 
rhubarb  and  raisin,  514. 
strawberry,  513. 
sweet  potato,  514. 
turnovers,  515. 
vinegar,  516. 
Washington,  515. 
whipped-cream,  514. 
See  Game  pies ;  Meat  pies ;  Poul- 
try pies. 

Piece  ^le  resistance,  defined,  721. 
Pig,  roast,  395. 
Pig's  brain  croquettes,  190. 

head,  Philadelphia  scrapple,  197. 
liver,  mock  pate  de  foie  gras,  180, 

181. 

Pigs  in  blankets,  151. 
Pigeon  pie,  395,  426. 

squabs,  broiled,  time  for  cooking, 
726. 

mock,  379. 
wild,  braised,  421. 

stewed,  421. 
Pilau,  defined,  721. 
of  chicken,  409. 
of  green  peppers,  211. 
Pimolas,  defined,  722. 
Pineapple  and  orange,  245. 
and  raspberries,  578. 
and  strawberries,  579. 
candied,  600. 
Charlotte,  561. 
pickled,  578. 
preserves,  629. 
pudding,  529. 
snow,  562. 
Pink  pudding,  566. 
Piquante,  defined,  722. 
sauce,  95,  174,  458. 
Pistachio,  defined,  722. 


764 


INDEX 


Pistachio  ice  cream,  583. 
Planked  shad,  94. 
Plant-lice,  to  get  rid  of,  704. 
Plants,  palms,  to  keep,  703. 
Plum,  Bavarian  ice  cream,  589. 

butter,  621. 

preserves,  627. 

pudding,  baked,  530. 
boiled,  520. 
steamed,  520. 
Plums,  canned,  687. 

stewed,  619. 

sweet  pickles,  643. 
Poisons,  antidotes  for,  712. 
Poke  stalks,  467. 
Polenta  and  bacon,  in. 

defined,  722. 
Polish,  for  floors,  710. 

for  table,  108. 
Polly's  pudding,  539. 
Poor  man's  pudding,  533. 
Popcorn  balls,  599. 

creamed,  599. 
Popovers,  65. 
Pork  and  beans,  212,  433. 
time  for  baking,  725. 

cake,  269. 

chine,  braised  with  apples,  396. 

chops,  broiled,  113. 

cutlets,  broiled,  114. 
curried,  114. 

"Frankfurters,"'  113. 

fresh,  bad  for  invalids  and  chil- 
dren, 4. 
season  for,  4. 

how  to  select,  4. 

Philadelphia  scrapple,  197. 

pickled,  399. 

to  keep  sweet,  14. 

pie,  English,  394. 
New  England,  394. 

pies,  small,  393. 

roast,  396. 

apple  sauce  for,  358. 
best  cuts  for,  4. 

time  for  cooking,  725. 

roast  pig,  395. 

sausages  and  apples,  113. 

sausages,  home-made,  113. 

spare-ribs,  broiled,  114. 

tenderloins,  397. 

See  Bacon  ;  Ham  :  Sausages. 
Porridge,  -meal-and-flour,  44 

milk,  44. 

oatmeal,  42,  43. 


Port  wine,  sauce,  360. 

temperature  to  serve  at,  673. 
Porterhouse  steak,  how  to  select,  4. 

with  oysters,  178. 
Potage,  defined,  722. 
Potato  and  cheese,  casserole  of,  195. 

and  fish  croquettes,  191. 

and  nut  croquettes,  192. 

balls,  476. 

biscuits,  62. 

cake,  260. 

chips,  207,  475. 

croquettes,  132,  191,  470. 

drop  cakes,  208. 

dumplings,  475,  476. 

fritters,  471. 

hash,  fried,  473. 

hillock,  474. 

omelet,  132,  475. 

pancakes,  German,  133. 

pie,  514. 

puff,  208. 

puree,  322. 

salad,  230. 
hot,  237. 

scallop,  207,  471. 

souffle,  470. 

soup,  browned,  325. 
cream  of,  320. 
savory,  325. 

sponge  bread,  46. 

strips,  208. 
Potatoes,  a  la  duchesse,  472. 

a  la  Lyonnaise,  131,  472. 

and  corn  ("left-over"),  473. 

au  gratin,  475. 

baked,  469. 

time  for  cooking,  728. 

block,  136. 

boiled,  469. 

au  naturel,  469. 
time  for  cooking,  727. 

browned,  469. 

care  of,  6. 

chopped,  sautes,  132. 

creamed,  brown,  473. 

French  fried,  475. 

fried,  time  for  cooking,  726. 

fried  whole,  132. 

hashed,  browned,  131,  207,  472. 

hashed,    creamed    and    browned, 
131- 

Kartoffelklosse     (potato    balls), 
476. 

Lyonnaise,  131,  472. 


INDEX 


765 


Potatoes  mashed,  474. 

new,  with  cream  sauce,  469. 
on  half-shell,  208,  470. 
Parisienne,  474. 
Saratoga  chips,  207,  475. 
savory,  473. 
scalloped,  207,  471. 
stewed,  131,  471. 
stuffed,  470. 
with  cheese  sauce,  474. 
See  Sweet  potatoes. 
Pot-pie,  chicken,  389. 
rabbit,  425. 
squirrel,  425. 
Potpourri,  693. 
defined,  722. 
Pot-roast  of  beef,  369. 
family,   372. 
New  England,  372. 
Pots,  care  of,  9. 
Poultry,  giblets,  mock  pate  de  foie 

gras,  180. 
how  to  carve,  16. 
how  to  make  tender,  13. 
how  to  select,  5. 
mince  turnover,  174. 
pies,  chicken,  388. 
and  ham,  390. 
cold,  389. 
pot  pie,  389. 
fowl,  389. 
pigeon,  395. 
See     Chicken;     Ducks;     Goose; 

Pigeon ;  Turkey. 
Pound  cake,  265. 
trifle,  569. 
Poverty  cake,  270. 
Preserves, 

apple  butter,  621. 

sauce,  619. 
berry  jam,  622. 
cherry,  628. 
chestnuts,  624. 
citron  rind,  624. 
crabapples,  628. 
ginger  root,  627. 
grape  marmalade,  622. 
grapes  (green),  628. 
how  to  keep,  7. 
imitation  East  India  sweetmeats, 

626. 

lemon  marmalade,  623. 
orange  marmalade,  622. 
peach,  624. 
butter,  621. 


Preserves,  peach,  jam,  621. 

marmalade,  623. 
peaches,  brandied,  629. 

candied,  629. 
pears,  627. 

gingered,  620. 
pineapple,  629. 
plum  butter,  621. 
plums,  627. 
rhubarb,  626. 

stewed,  620. 

strawberry  (whole),  625. 
tomato    (ripe),  625. 
tutti-frutti,  623. 
watermelon  rind,  626. 
See  Canned  fruits;  Jam;  Jelly; 

Marmalade;  Name  of  fruit. 
Prunes  and  nut  jelly,  574. 
Charlotte,  559. 
for  breakfast,  41. 
pudding,  baked,  528. 

boiled,  522. 
souffle,  543. 
steamed,  243. 
stewed,  243. 

Prunelles  and  sultanas,  stewed,  244. 
Puddings, 

apple  and  tapioca,  529. 

boiled,  519. 

meringue,  537. 

puff,  541  v 
apple,  souffle,  541. 

steamed,  518. 

apricot,  boiled  or  steamed,  525. 
baked  Charlotte,  537. 
banana  souffle,  544. 
batter,  steamed,  522. 
bird's  nest,  540. 
blackberry,  baked,  531. 

boiled,  519. 
boiled,  518. 
bread  and  date,  536. 

and  fig,  baked,  535. 

and  milk,  538. 

crumb,  535,  538. 

old-fashioned,  536. 

souffle,  543. 
Brown  Betty,  532. 
cabinet,  527. 
cherry,  baked,  531. 

batter,  steamed,  527. 

roly-poly,  527. 
chestnut,  450. 
chocolate,  537. 

souffles,  544. 


766 


INDEX 


Puddings,  Clonduff,  524. 
cocoanut  souffle,  542. 
corn,  445,  446. 
cornstarch,  538. 

hasty,  526. 
cottage,  535. 

raspberry,  531. 
cracker,  540. 
cranberry,  519. 
date  and  bread,  536. 
East  Indian,  526. 
fig,  520,  521. 

and  bread,  535. 

and  raisin,  521. 
fruit,  baked,  529. 

boiled,  524. 
frumenty,   540. 
German,  533. 
gooseberry,  525. 
hominy,  plain,  454. 
huckleberry,  522. 
Indian,  baked,  534. 

boiled,  521,  522. 
lemon  souffle,  543. 
macaroni,  535. 
Mary's  favorite,  526. 
minute,  540. 
Nesselrode,  583. 
orange,  baked,  530. 
sauce  for,  531. 

boiled,  523. 
orange  souffle,  543. 

steamed,  523. 
peach  batter,  530. 

canned,  533. 

scallop,  536. 

tapioca,  560. 
pineapple,  529. 
plum,  baked,  530. 

boiled,  520. 

steamed,  520. 
Polly's,  539. 
poor  man's,  533. 
prune,  baked,  528. 

boiled,  522. 

souffle,  543. 
queen  of,  536. 
raisin,  523. 

raspberry  cottage,  531. 
rhubarb,  532. 

souffle,  542. 
rice  and  cheese,  198,  211. 

as  a  vegetable,  481. 

custard,  532. 

savory,  481. 


Puddings,  rice,  souffle,  542. 

with  eggs,  539. 

with  milk  and  eggs,  543. 

without  eggs,  539. 
sago,  541. 
Sally's,  524. 
sauces  for,  552. 
snow,  564. 
squash,  538. 

steamed,  time  for  cooking,  727. 
suet,  525. 

sweet  omelet  souffle,  542. 
tapioca  and  apple,  529. 

and  raisin,  530. 
time  for  baking,  727. 

for  steaming,  727. 
tipsy,  570. 

turkey  and  sausage,  403. 
Yorkshire,  367. 

See  also,  Baked  puddings  ;  Boiled 
puddings  ;   Steamed  puddings  ; 
Custards ;  Souffles  ;  Sauces  for 
puddings. 
Puffs,  apple,  541. 
cheese,  199. 
cream,  573. 

cocoannt,  288. 

filling  for,  288,  573. 
graham,  64. 

paste  for,  503. 
potato,  208. 
spinach,  485. 
sweet  potato,  209,  478. 
Pumpkin  pie,  506,  507. 
Punch,  mint,  654. 

strawberry,  654,  659. 
tea,  654. 

Puree,  defined,  722. 
green  pea,  324,  325. 
potato,  322. 

QUAIL,  broiled,  130,  417. 

time  for  cooking,  726. 
in  paper  cases,  time  for  cooking, 

726. 

pie,  425. 
roasted,  417. 

8ueen  of  puddings,  536. 
uick  biscuits,  61. 
doughnuts,  293. 
Sally  Lunn,  61. 
waffles,  66. 

Buince  jelly,  630. 
uinces,  canned,  688. 


INDEX 


767 


RABBITS,  barbecued,  129,  418. 

Belgian  hares,  420. 

broiled,  129. 

casserole  of,  419. 

pie,  424. 

pot-pie,  425. 

roast,  418. 

smothered,  129. 

stewed,  419. 
Ragout,  defined,  722. 

of  beef,  savory,  373. 

of  turkey,  403. 
Raised  apple  biscuits,  56. 

muffins,  60. 
Raisin  and  cranberry  pie,  512. 

and  fig  pudding,  521. 

and  rhubarb  pie,  514. 

and  tapioca  pudding,  530. 

bread,  268,  611. 

filling,  280. 

gingerbread,  282. 

pudding,  523. 

sandwiches,  217. 
Raisins  and  rhubarb,  241. 

sultanas    and    prunelles,    stewed, 

244. 
Ramakins,  200. 

defined,  722. 
Range,  construction  of,  712. 

how  to  build  fire  in,  713,  714. 

screen  for,  138. 

Rarebit,  nonpareil  Welsh,  202. 
Raspberries  and  cream,  246. 

and  pineapple,  578. 

canned,  688. 

for  breakfast,  39. 
Raspberry    and    currant    ice-cream, 

5?9. 

cordial,  66 1. 

cottage  pudding,  baked,  531. 
cream  sponge,  562. 
dumplings,  549. 
float,  560. 
ice  cream,  583. 
jam,  623. 

Banbury  tarts,  518. 
jelly,  572. 
juice,  frozen,  015. 
meringue  glace,  586. 
mousse,  584. 
parfait,  585. 
pie,  creamed,  511. 
trifle,  569. 
vinegar,  655. 
Rats  and  mice,  to  get  rid  of,  701. 


Receptions,    afternoon,    menus    for, 

608,609. 

evening.     See  Evening  suppers. 
Rechauffe,  defined,  722. 

of  beef,  a  la  jardiniere,  368. 
Red  cabbage  pickle,  641. 
raspberry  jam,  623. 
snapper,  baked,  337. 
boiled,  337. 
cutlets,  98. 
soup,  333. 
steamed,  338. 
Refrigerator,  ants  in,  to  get  rid  of, 

716. 

Relish,  India,  637,  638. 
Remedies.     See  Home  remedies. 
Rennet,  form  of  to  use,  567. 
Rhubarb  and  dates,  241. 
and  figs,  241. 
and  raisin  pie,  514. 
and  raisins,  241. 
canned,  626,  687. 
fritters,  546. 
jelly,  631. 

preserved,  626,  687. 
pudding,  532. 
souffle,  542. 
spiced,  646. 
stewed,  241,  620. 

for  breakfast,  41. 
trifle,  570. 
wine,  655. 

Rib-ends  of  beef,  369. 
Rice  and  cheese  pudding,  108,  211. 
and  liver,  casserole  of,  195. 
and  minced  lamb,  173. 
and  peppers,  467. 
and  tomato  croquettes,  480. 
and  tomato  soup,  330. 
and  veal  broth,  305. 
blanc  mange,  570. 
boiled,  43,  44,  479- 

time  for  cooking,  727. 
to  serve  with  curry,  172. 
with  milk  and  egg,  543- 
with  tomato  sauce,  480. 
buttered,  209,  479. 

with  peppers,  211. 
cheese,  199. 
croquettes,  190,  480. 
custard,  557. 

puddings,  532*. 
frumenty,  540. 
griddle-cakes,  68. 
jelly,  572. 


768 


INDEX 


Rice,  molded,  481,  482. 

muffins,  65. 

omelet,  86. 

pilau  of  green  peppers,  211. 

pudding,  as  vegetable,  481. 
savory,  481. 
with  eggs,  539. 
without  eggs,  539. 

savory,  480. 

souffle,  542. 

soup,  savory,  326. 

Spanish,  482. 

steamed,  time  for  cooking,  727. 

timbales,  482. 

time  for  steaming,  727. 

tomatoes  stuffed  with,  492. 

waffles,  65. 

water,  uses  for,  698. 

•ways  of  cooking,  479. 
Ricebird  pie,  425. 
Risen  brunette  muffins,  63. 

pancakes,  548. 

waffles,  65. 
Rissoles,  defined,  722. 

macaroni,  458. 
Rissotto,  defined,  722. 
Roasting  fish  and  meats,  time  for, 

'725- 

Roasts,  claret  or  Bordelaise  sauce  to 
accompany,  357. 

how  to  select,  4. 
Roe,  caviar  crisps,  222. 
in  saucers,  162. 
strips,  162. 

herring  (smoked),  grilled,  106. 

of  shad,  broiled,  96. 
croquettes,  97. 
fried,  96. 
scalloped,  96. 
Rolls,  breakfast,  54,  55. 

currant  buns,  59. 

French,  58. 

fruit,  59. 

hot  cross  buns,  59. 

jelly,  270. 

Parker  house,  55. 

stuffed,  612. 

time  for  baking,  728. 

Vienna,  56. 

Roly-poly,  cherry,  527. 
Roquefort,  defined,  722. 
Rose  jar,  693. 

mange,  566. 

^  pillow,  694. 

Roti,  defined,  722. 


Roulade,  defined,  722. 

of  beef,  178. 
Roulettes,  almond,  547. 
Round   steak,   mock  roast   chicken, 
176. 

pie,  392. 

Roux,  defined,  722. 
Rust  on  tinware,  to  prevent,  710. 

to  remove,  703. 
Rugs,  white  fur,  to  clean,  698. 
Rump  steak  and  tomatoes,  177. 

stewed,  177. 
Rusk,  dried,  57. 
Russet  shoes,  to  clean,  706. 
Rye  and  Indian  bread,  50. 

bread,  old-fashioned,  50. 

SAGO  and  veal  broth,  305. 
pudding,  541. 
soup,  cream  of,  322. 
Salad  dressing,  boiled,  226,  228. 

cream,  225. 

French,  225. 

mayonnaise,  225. 

curdled,  to  save,  716. 

sour  cream,  225. 
oil,  how  to  select,  225. 
sandwiches,  216. 
Salads,  224. 

apple  and  celery,  232. 

and  cress,  238. 

and  nut,  232. 
asparagus,  237. 

and  shrimp,  237. 
banana,  238. 
bean  and  beet,  232. 
beet,  230. 
cabbage,  233. 

cream,  441. 
cauliflower,  230. 
celery,  and  sweetbreads,  239. 
cherry,  239. 
chicken,  226. 
clam,  236. 
cold-slaw,  233. 
crab,  226. 

and  tomato,  227. 
cucumber,  234. 

and  sandwiched  toast,  206. 
cucumbers  with  lemon  juice,  234. 
daisy,  234. 
dandelion,  233. 
egg,  boiled  dressing,  228. 

sardine  mayonnaise,  228. 
endive,  237. 


INDEX 


769 


Salads,  fruit,  231. 
green  bean,  240. 
ham,  235,  239. 
Lenten,  238. 
lettuce  and  tomato,  229. 

simple,  229. 
lobster,  226. 
macedoine,  231. 
nasturtium,  233. 
orange,  232. 

and  nut,  231. 
oyster,  227. 
pea,  240. 
peach,  239. 
pear,  236. 
potato,  230. 

hot,  237. 
sardine,  228. 
shrimp,  227. 

and  tomato,  227. 

and  tomato  aspic,  227. 
spinach,  238. 
strawberry,  238. 

sweetbread  and  cucumber,  237. 
tomato  and  corn,  235. 

and  peanut,  236. 

aspic,  235. 

iced,  236. 
tomatoes    and    whipped    cream, 

235- 

tongue,  235. 

turkey,  226. 

using  knife  to  cut,  229. 

veal,  239. 

water  cress,  230. 
Sally  Lunn,  57. 

quick,  61. 
Sally's  muffins,  63. 

pudding,  524. 
Salmi,  defined,  722. 

of  duck,  creole,  405. 

of  goose,  414. 

of  liver,  381. 
Salmon,  baked,  344. 

time  for  baking,  725. 

bisque,  317. 

boiled,  time  for  cooking,  726. 

croquettes,  99. 

curried,  162. 

cutlets,  98. 

loaf,  99. 

mayonnaise,  162,  228. 

sandwiches,  216. 

scalloped,  99,  163. 

smoked,  broiled,  106. 

49 


Salmon,  smoked,  fried,  106. 
steaks,  broiled,  98. 
trout,  baked,  cream  gravy,  345. 

boiled,  344. 

Salsify  croquettes,  193. 
fritters,  483. 
mock  fried  oysters,  483. 
scalloped    (mock   scalloped   oys- 
ters), 483. 
stewed,  483. 

time  for  cooking,  727. 
Salt  mackerel,  boiled,  105. 

broiled,  105. 
pork,  cake,  269. 
to  prevent  hardening  of,  7. 
use  in  preserving  eggs,  6. 
Salted  almonds,  612. 
Salt-rising  bread,  51,  52. 
Samp.    See  Hominy. 
Sand  cookies,  287. 
Sandwiched  toast,  206. 
Sandwiches,  anchovy,  220. 
beef,  215. 
brunette,  214. 
cheese  and  olive,  613. 

and  nut,  218. 
chicken,  214. 

and  ham,  613. 
chocolate,  217. 
club,  220. 

cottage  cheese,  214,  216. 
cream  cheese  for,  613. 
date  and  nut,  217. 
egg,  215. 

and  olive,  613. 
fig,  218. 

and  nut,  218. 
ginger,  218. 
ham,  214. 

hot,  219. 
hash,  217. 

how  to  cut  bread  for,  214. 
lamb,  215. 
lettuce,  218. 

and  cream  cheese,  614. 

brunette,  214. 
lobster,  219. 
marmalade,  218. 
mint,  219. 
mutton,  215. 
nasturtium,  217. 
olive,  216. 
peanut,  215. 
peanut  butter  for,  613. 
raisin,  217. 


770 


INDEX 


Sandwiches,  salad,  216. 

salmon,  216. 

sardine,  216. 

sweetbread,  219. 

tongue,  219. 

walnut,  215. 

water  cress,  216. 
Saratoga  chips,  207,  475. 
Sardine  eggs,  160. 

mayonnaise,  228. 

salad,  228. 

sandwiches,  216. 

toast,  76. 

Sardines,  baked,  159. 
sauce  for,  159. 

broiled,  159. 

canapes  of,  159. 

grilled,  160. 

how  to  buy  and  prepare  for  use, 
158. 

in  cups,  160. 
Sarsaparilla  wine,  659. 
Sauce,  apple,  358,  619. 
cold,  242. 
hot,  242. 
pie,  creamed,  510. 

apples  and  peaches,  dried,  244. 

Cheese,  for  potatoes,  474. 

fj^uante,  for  macaroni,  458. 

tartare,  for  artichokes,  431. 
Sauces  for  fish  and  meat,  anchovy, 

355- 

apple,  358. 
Bearnaise,  357. 
Bechamel,  354. 
Bordelaise,  357. 
bread,  356. 
brown,  353. 

for  broiled  oysters,  146. 
caper,  356. 
cauliflower,  359. 
celery,  355. 
champagne,  359. 
cider,  359. 
claret,  357. 
cranberry,  358. 
cream,  101. 
cucumber,  cream,  357. 

plain,  357. 
drawn   butter    ("white    sauce"), 

353- 
egg,  353- 

for  boiled  fresh  codfish,  341. 
Espagnole,  358. 
for  baked  sardines,  159. 


Sauces  for  fish  and  meat, 
for  baked  sea  bass,  339. 

baked  shad,  340. 

braised  tongue,  374,  375. 

fried  tripe,  115. 

oyster  cocktails,  221. 

stuffed  sea  bass,  340. 
giblet,  359. 
Hollandaise,  354. 
horseradish,  355. 
jelly,  358. 
lemon,  97. 
lobster,  355. 
maitre  d'hotel,  356. 
mint,  356. 

mushroom,    for   braised    tongue, 
375- 

for  veal  steaks,  378. 
olive,  360. 
onion,  356. 
oyster,  354. 
parsley,  359. 
piquante,  95,  174. 
port  wine,  360. 
sherry,  176. 
shrimp,  355. 

for  baked  sea  bass,  339. 
sorrel,  385. 
soubise,  356. 
tartare,  353. 
tomato,  356. 

for  breaded  tongue,  181. 
"white"  (drawn  butter),  353. 
See  Catsups. 

Sauces  for  ice-cream,  chocolate,  581. 
maple,  hot,  582. 
strawberry,  582. 
Sauces  for  puddings,  552. 
apricot,  553. 
brandy,  liquid,  554. 
canned  fruit,  552. 
caramel,  552. 
chocolate,  551. 
claret,  554.- 
cream,  551. 
foamy,  553. 
hard,  552. 
jelly,  553- 
lemon,  552. 
Madeira,  554. 
Maraschino,  553. 
meringue,  552. 
orange,  531. 
strawberry,  554. 
vanilla,  532,  553- 


INDEX 


771 


Sauces      for      puddings,      whipped 

cream,  plain,  554. 

wine,  liquid,  555. 
Sausage  dressing,  for  turkey,  401. 
Sausages  and  apples,  113. 

"Frankfurters,"  113. 

home-made,  113. 
Sauterne,  temperature  to  serve  at, 

673. 
Sautes,  beans,  435. 

carrot,  442. 

defined,  722. 

kidney,  120. 

oyster,  152. 

potato,  chopped,  132. 

turnips  and  carrots,  495. 
Scalds  and  burns,  lard  and  soot  oint- 
ments for,  187. 

use  of  soda,  13. 
Scalloped   dishes,  time   for  baking, 

728. 
Scallops,  chowder,  334. 

curried,  104. 

fried,  103. 

Scalpion,  defined,  722. 
Scones,  defined,  722. 

oatmeal,  610. 

tea,  6 10. 
Scotch  broth,  386. 

shortcake,  259. 
Scrapple,  Philadelphia,  197. 
Scraps,  bones  of  cooked  meat,  for 
stock,  697. 

of  bread,  to  keep,  7. 
to  use,  696. 

of  crackers,  to  use,  697. 

of  meat,  cottage  pie,  181. 
dripping  made  from,  696. 

See  "Left-overs." 
Sea  bass,  baked,  339. 

shrimp  sauce  for,  339. 

stuffed,  339. 

Sealing-wax  for  jars  and  bottles,  633. 
Seckel  pears,  canned,  686. 
Serving  and  waiting  table,  18. 
Shad,  baked,  340. 

broiled,  with  sauce  piquante,  94. 
time  for  cooking,  726. 

creamed,  164. 

croquettes,  95. 

fried,  95. 

planked,  94. 

roe,  broiled,  96. 
croquettes,  97. 
fried,  96. 


Shad  roe,  scalloped,  96. 

scalloped,  96. 
Shalot,  defined,  722. 
Shellfish, 

clam  bisque,  315. 

chowder,  333. 

cocktails,  351. 

fritters,  103. 

pates,  153. 

pie,  350. 

salad,  236. 

soup,  334. 

wafers,  222. 
clams,  creamed,  152. 

deviled,  102,  153. 

fried,  102. 

on  toast,  102. 

raw,  222. 

roasted,  152. 

scalloped,  103,  152. 
crab  and  tomato  salad,  227. 

bisque,  315. 

cutlets,  98. 

salad,  226. 

soup,  335. 

crabs  and  champignons    (mush- 
rooms), 156. 

deviled,  155. 

en  coquille,  156. 

fricasseed,  348. 

soft-shell,  broiled,  345. 

fried,  104,  346. 
lobster  a  la  Newburg,  154,  347. 

and      champignons       (mush- 
rooms), 156. 

baked  in  shell,  346. 

bisque,  315. 

boiled,  time  for  cooking,  726. 

broiled  in  shell,  346. 

canned,  preparing  for  use,  155. 

creamed,  154. 

croquettes,  189. 

curry  of,  154. 

cutlets,  98,  154. 

deviled,  155. 

salad,  226. 

sandwiches,  219. 

sauce,  355. 

scalloped,  155. 
in  shells,  347. 

timbales,  154. 
oyster  bisque,  314. 

canapes,  351. 

cocktails,  150,  221. 

croquettes,  188. 


772 


INDEX 


Shellfish,  oyster,  cutlets,  351. 
cutlets,  351. 
fritters,  349. 
gumbo,  311. 
pates,  150,  348. 

deviled,  145. 
pie,  150,  349. 
salad,  227. 
sautes,  152. 
scallops,  147. 
soup,  335. 

oysters  and  bacon  (pigs  in  blank- 
ets), 151. 
baked,  151. 
broiled,  146. 

with  brown  sauce,  146. 
creamed,  145. 

and  baked,  147. 
curried,  149. 
fricasseed,  145. 
fried,  147. 

in  batter,  148. 

mock,  483. 
jumboyla,  350. 
panned,  149. 

and  creamed,  149. 

and  deviled,  149. 
pickled,  350. 
pigs  in  blankets,  151. 
raw,  222. 
scalloped,  147. 

mock,  483. 
steamed,  149. 
stewed,  148. 
with  macaroni,  151. 
with  mushrooms,  150. 
with  Parmesan  cheese,  351. 
scallops,  chowder,  334. 
curried,  104. 
fried,  103. 

shrimp  and  asparagus  salad,  237. 
and  tomato  salad,  227. 
gumbo,  311. 
salad,  227. 

and  tomato  aspic,  227. 
shrimps  and  eggs,  158. 
buttered,  157. 
curried,  157. 
en  coquille,  157. 
preparing  for  use,  157. 
scallop    of,    and    mushrooms, 

157- 
Sherbet,  berry,  587. 

lemon-and-orange,  587. 


Sherbet,  plain  (lemonade),  655. 

See  Frappes;  Ices. 
Sherry  sauce,  176. 

wine,  temperature  to  serve  at,  673. 
Shirred  eggs,  88. 
Shoes,  patent-leather,  to  keep,  705. 

to  polish,  705. 
russet,  to  clean,  706. 
to  keep  from  cracking,  703. 
Shortcake,  currant,  258. 
huckleberry,  258. 
orange,  259. 
Scotch,  259. 
strawberry,  cold,  259. 

hot,  258. 

Shrimp  and  asparagus  salad,  237. 
and  tomato  salad,  227. 
gumbo,  311. 
salad,  227. 

and  tomato  aspic,  227. 
sauce,  355. 

for  baked  sea  bass,  339. 
Shrimps  and  eggs,  158. 
buttered,  157. 
curried,  157. 
en  coquille,  157. 
preparing  for  use,  157. 
scallop  of,  and  mushrooms,  157. 
Sick-room  cookery. 

See  Invalids,  Dishes  for. 
Silk,  to  remove  milk  from,  715. 

white,  to  clean,  699. 
Sillibub,  strawberry,  571. 
Silver  cake,  266. 
Sink,  care  of,  u. 
Sirloin  steak,  how  to  select,  4. 
Skin,  tonic  for,  707. 
Slippery-elm  tea,  662. 
Small  birds,  broiled,  130. 
Small  cakes,  284. 

Alma's  drop  cakes,  287. 
anise  cakes,  291. 
cookies,  aunties,  285. 
caraway,  286. 

currant,  285.  » 

eggless,  292. 
Fannie's,  287. 
German  almond,  286. 
molasses,  288. 
lemon,  286. 
oatmeal,  285. 
peanut,  287. 
plain,  292. 
sand,  287. 


INDEX 


773 


Small  cakes,  cookies,  spice,  286. 
sponge,  286. 
vaniila,  288. 
cream  puffs,  cocoanut,  288. 

filling  for,  288. 
ginger  jumbles,  289. 
gingersnaps,  289. 
hermits,  292. 
macaroons,  574. 
almond,  284. 
cocoanut,  284. 
with  whipped  cream,  561. 
peppernuts     (pfefferniisse),    289, 

290. 

brown,  290. 
German,  289. 
icing  for,  291. 
white,  290. 
vanities,  291. 
See  Wafers. 
Smells,  of  paint,  to  get  rid  of,  704. 

to  kill,  703. 
Smelts,  baked,  163. 

with  oyster  forcemeat,  163. 
fried,  97, 

Smoked  beef,  chipped,  180. 
roe  herring,  grilled,  106. 
salmon,  broiled,  106. 

fried,  106. 
Snipe  pie,  425. 
Snow  pudding,  564. 
Soda,  to  prevent  milk  curdling  in 

boiling,  716. 
to  sweeten  tainted  meat,   12,  13, 

696,  716. 

use  for  burns  and  scalds,  13. 
use  in  cleansing,  10. 
use  in  cooking,  12. 
Soft  gingerbread,  282. 

white  filling,  279. 
Soft-shell  crabs,  broiled,  345. 

fried,  104,  346. 
Sorbet,  defined,  722. 
Sore  throat,  slippery-elm  tea  for,  662. 
Sorrel  sauce,  385. 

soup,  327- 
Soubise,  defined,  722. 

sauce,  356. 
Souffles,  apple,  pudding,  541. 

puff,  541- 
banana,  544. 
cold,  573- 
bread,  543. 
cheese,  200. 
chocolate,  544. 
cocoanut,  542. 


Souffles,  defined,  722. 
eggs,  baked,  85. 
green  pea,  464. 
lemon,  543. 
omelet,  247. 
orange,  543. 
potato,  470. 
prune,  543. 
rhubarb,  542. 
rice,  542. 
spinach,  485. 
sweet  omelet,  542. 
See  Baked  puddings ;  Custards. 
Soups,  303. 

artichoke,  331. 
barley,  white,  312. 
bean,  323. 

and  tomato,  323,  326. 

Lima,  332. 

mock-turtle,  323. 
beef  bouillon,  309. 

a  la  russe,  310. 

juice  for  invalids,  313. 

tea,  314. 

brown,  clear,  306. 
caramel  for  coloring,  307. 
carrot,  327. 
catfish,  336. 
cauliflower,  328. 
celery,  328. 
chicken,  bouillon,  310. 

broth,  336. 

brown,  313, 

cream,  308,  309. 

gumbo,  310,  311. 

white,  313. 
clam,  334. 

chowder,  333. 

"long"  clams,  334. 
clear,  a  la  royale,  307. 

with  poached  eggs,  306. 
corn  and  tomato,  331. 

chowder,  331. 
crab,  335- 

cream  of  celery,  319. 
croutons  for,  333. 
eel,  335- 
egg,  333- 

farmer's  chowder,  328. 
Glasgow  broth,  307. 
gravy,  stock  for,  4. 
green  pea,  329. 
broth,  329. 
puree,  324,  325. 
Julienne,  311. 
lentil,  329. 


774 


INDEX 


Soups,  lettuce,  328. 
Lima  bean,  332. 
macaroni,  332. 
mock  turtle,  304. 

'  bean  soup,  323. 
mulligatawney,  308. 
mutton,  plain,  386. 
noodles  for,  332. 
okra,  326. 

onion,  French,  312. 
ox-tail,  306. 
oyster,  335. 

gumbo,  311. 
potato,  browned,  325. 

puree,  322. 

savory,  325. 
red  snapper,  333. 
rice  and  tomato,  330. 

savory,  326. 
scallop  chowder,  334. 
Scotch  broth,  386. 
shrimp  gumbo,  311. 
sorrel,  327. 
spinach,  328. 
split  pea,  324,  328. 
squash,  330. 
stock,  303. 

"left-over,"  304. 

white,  304. 
succotash,  327. 
tomato  and  bean,  323,  326. 

and  corn,  331. 

and  rice,  330. 

red,  326. 

"turkey  rack,"  312. 
turnip,  330. 

use  of  veal  knuckle  and  bones,  4. 
.veal  and  rice  broth,  305. 

and  sago  broth,  305. 

and  tapioca,  305. 
vermicelli,  332. 
vegetable,  with  meat,  322-328. 

without  meat,  329-333- 
See    Bisques;    Bouillon;    Broth; 

Cream  soups. 
Sour  cream  cake,  276. 

m  salad  dressing,  225. 
milk  corn-bread,  72. 

doughnuts,  293. 

gingerbread,  283. 

griddle-cakes,  69. 
corn-meal,  72. 
Soured  dough,  to  save,  716. 
Southern  batter  bread,  71. 
egg  bread,  71. 


Spaghetti  and  veal  croquettes,  190. 

See  Macaroni. 
Spanish  rice,  482. 
Spare-ribs,  broiled,  114. 
Spice  cookies,  286. 
Spiced  cranberries,  645. 

currants,  645. 

grapes,  645. 

rhubarb,  646. 

sauces.    See  Catsups;  Sauces  for 

fish  and  meat. 
Spices,  how  to  keep,  7. 
Spinach,  a  la  creme,  485. 

boiled,  plain,  484. 

time  for  cooking,  727. 

pates,  486. 

puff,  485. 

salad,  238. 

souffle,  485. 

soup,  328. 

cream  of,  318. 
Split  pea  soup,  324,  328. 
Sponge  cake,  boiled,  268. 
cup,  267. 

loaf,  time  for  baking,  728. 
old-fashioned,  267. 

cookies,  286. 

peach,  560. 

strawberry,  567. 

Springleys,  or  springerlein,  261,  262. 
Squabs,   broiled,   time   for  cooking, 
726. 

mock,  379. 

pie,  395- 
Squash,  baked,  486. 

boiled,  486. 

time  for  cooking,  727. 

creamed,  487. 

fritters,  487. 

pancakes,  487. 

pudding,  538. 

scalloped,  487. 

soup,  330. 
Squirrels,  barbecued,  423. 

broiled,  422. 

Brunswick  stew,  423. 

pie,  424. 

pot-pie,  425. 

roast,  423. 

stewed,  422. 

Virginia  stew,  423. 
Stains,  claret,  to  remove,  715. 

coffee,  to  remove,  711. 

fruit,  to  remove,  715. 

grass,  to  remove,  711. 


INDEX 


775 


Stains,  ink,  on  carpet,  to  remove, 
704,  715. 

on  fingers,  to  remove,  185. 
mud,  to  remove  from  black  cloth, 

707. 

on  hands,  to  remove,  708. 
tea,  to  remove,  711. 
washing-fluid,  to  remove,  702. 
Stale-bread  griddle-cakes,  69. 
Starch  for  black  lawns,  709. 
Steaks,  beef,  and  mushrooms,  116. 
and  onions,  116. 
and  sherry  sauce,  176. 
Bearnaise  sauce  for,  357. 
broiled,  116. 

squash  pancakes  to  ac- 
company, 487. 
time  for  cooking,  726. 
Chateaubriand,  116. 
croquettes,  192. 
Espagnole  sauce  for,  358. 
how  to  select,  4. 
mock  roast  chicken,  176. 
pie,  392. 

tough,  to  make  tender,  695. 
halibut,  baked,  342. 

with  tomatoes,  343. 
broiled,  100. 
fried,  100. 
Hamburg,  116. 
porterhouse,  buying,  4. 

with  oysters,  178. 
roulades  of  beef,  178. 
rump,  and  tomatoes,  177. 

stewed,  177. 
salmon,  98. 
sirloin,  buying,  4. 
preparation,  4. 
veal,  mushroom  sauce,  378. 
venison,  130,  416. 
Steamed  puddings,  apple,  518. 
apricot,  525. 
batter,  522. 
cabinet,  527. 
cherry  batter,  527. 
roly-poly,  527. 
cranberry,  519. 
East  Indian,  526. 
fig  and  raisin,  521. 
Mary's  favorite,  526. 
orange,  523. 
plum,  520. 
raisin,  523. 
suet,  525. 


Steamed  puddings,  time  for  cook- 
ing, 727. 

See  Baked  puddings ;  Boiled  pud- 
dings ;    Custards ;    Puddings ; 
Sauces  for  puddings ;  Souffles. 
Steaming,  time  for,  727. 
Stew,  Brunswick,  423. 

Irish,  182. 

oyster,  148. 
^  stock  for,  bones,  4. 
Stick  candy,  molasses,  593. 
Stings,  insect,  to  draw  poison,  707. 

use  of  ammonia,  13. 
Stock,  303. 

bones  for,  697. 

defined,  723. 

for  broth,  bones,  3. 

for  hash,  bones,  4. 

for  stew,  bones,  4. 

"left-over,"  304. 

veal  knuckle  and  bones  for,  4. 

white,  304. 
Stove,  care  of,  n. 

construction  of,  712. 

how  to  build  fire  in,  713,  714. 
Strasburg  pate  de  foie  gras,  imita- 
tion of,  180. 

Straw  hats,  to  clean,  709. 
Strawberries  and  cream,  246. 

and  grapefruit,  246. 

and  pineapple,  579. 

canned,  688. 

for  breakfast,  39. 

for  dessert,  579. 

preserved  whole,  625. 
Strawberry  Charlotte,  570. 

float,  560. 

ice-cream,  583. 

jam,  Banbury  tarts,  518. 

meringue  glace,  586. 

mousse,  584. 

pie,  513- 

punch,  654,  659. 

salad,  238. 

sauce,  554. 

for  vanilla  ice-cream,  582. 

shortcake,  cold,  259. 
hot,  258. 

sillibub,  571. 

sponge,  567. 

surprise  (glace),  580. 

wine,  657. 
String  beans,  boiled,  436. 

time  for  cooking,  727. 
canned,  692. 


INDEX 


String  beans,  cream,  steamed,  436. 

pickled,  637. 
savory,  437. 
succotash  soup,  327. 
Stuffing,  for  ducks,  404. 
for  turkey,  bread,  400. 
chestnut,  401. 
oyster,  401. 
sausage,  401. 
Succotash,  446. 

soup,  327. 
Suet  dumplings,  550. 

pudding,  steamed,  525. 
Sugar  and  butter,  to  cream,  mean- 
ing, 720. 
candy,  5Qi- 
how  to  keep,  7. 
of  lead,  antidote  for,  712. 
Sugared  cherries,  245. 

peanuts,  599. 

Sultanas  and  prunelles,  stewed,  244. 
Sunnybank  baked  beans,  434. 

crullers,  295. 
Sunshine  cake,  271. 
Supper.     See  Chafing-dish  suppers; 

Evening  suppers. 
Supreme,  defined,  723. 
Surprise,  strawberry,  586. 
Sweet  corn  griddle-cakes,  70. 
omelet  souffle,  542. 
omelets,  247. 
peppers,  and  bacon,  112. 

and  ham,  scalloped,  211. 
pickles,  642. 
beets,  644. 
cauliflower,  647. 
crabapples,  643,  644. 
cranberries,  spiced,  645. 
cucumber,  643. 
currants,  spiced,  645. 
grapes,  spiced,  645. 
peaches,  642. 

unpeeled,  642. 
plums,  643. 

precaution  in  cooking,  642. 
rhubarb,  spiced,  646. 
tomato,  green,  646. 
potato   and   chestnut   croquettes, 

478. 

bread,  52. 
croquettes,  478. 
fritters,  547. 
pie,  514. 
puff,  209,  478. 


Sweet  potatoes  and  bar.on,  scallop 

of,  477. 

au  gratin,  208,  478. 
baked,  477. 
boiled,  477. 

time  for  cooking,  727. 
buttered,  478. 
glazed,  477. 

Sweetbread  croquettes,  193. 
cutlets,  121. 
pie,  392. 

sandwiches,  219. 
Sweetbreads    and    cucumber    salad, 

237-  . 

"blanching,"  121. 
broiled,  121. 

with  mushrooms,  121. 
creamed,  122. 
en  nid,  170. 
fried,  121. 
how  to  select,  5. 
larded,  fried,  169. 

roasted,  169. 
pates,  170. 
roast,  381. 
timbales,  170. 
with  celery  salad,  239. 
Sweetmeats,    East   India,   imitation, 

626. 

Swiss  fritters,  547. 
Syllabub,  strawberry,  571. 

TABLE,  breakfast,  to  set  for,  18. 

formal,  to  set  for,  663,  664. 
chafing-dish   supper,   to   set    for, 

679. 

dinner,  to  set  for,  21,  22,  669. 
evening  supper,  to  set  for,  677. 
heat  marks  on,  to  remove,  694. 
luncheon,  to  set  for,  20,  21. 

formal,  to  set  for,  666. 
teas  and   receptions,  to  set  for, 

607,  608. 
to  polish,  1 08. 
Table-linen,  care  of,  23. 

claret  or  fruit  stains  on,  715. 
mildewed,  to  clean,  716. 
Tables  of  weights  and  measures,  724. 

See  also,  Time-tables. 
Taffy,  molasses,  593. 
Tainted   meat,   to   sweeten,    12,    13, 

696,716. 

Tamales,  hot,  Mexican,  411. 
Tapioca  and  apple  pudding,  baked, 
529. 


INDEX 


777 


Tapioca  and  peach  pudding,  560. 

and  raisin  pudding,  530. 

and  veal  soup,  305. 

cocoanut  custard,  557. 

custard,  French,  556. 

jelly,  572. 

soup,  cream  of,  321. 
Tarragon,  defined,  723. 
Tartare,  defined,  723. 
%      sauce,  353. 
Tartlets,  fried,  518. 
Tarts,  Banbury,  518. 

cherry,  517. 

cranberry,  517. 

currant,  516. 

lemon,  517. 

orange  cheese  cakes,  517. 

sand,  287. 
Tea,  apple,  662. 

beef,  314. 

cakes,  610. 
Bristol,  611. 
corn-meal,  611. 
hot  milk,  612. 

care  of,  6. 

cold,  652. 

dandelion,  658. 

flaxseed,  662. 

frappe,  615. 

hot,  652. 

how  to  brew  for  afternoon,  604. 

how  to  keep,  6. 

punch,  654. 

scones,  610. 

slippery-elm,  662. 

stains,  to  remove,  711. 

See  Afternoon  tea. 
Tenderloins,  pork,  397. 

how  to  select,  4. 
Terrapin,  imitation  (chicken),  126. 

Maryland,  158. 

stewed,  347. 

Thanksgiving  citron  cake,  274. 
Timbales,  chicken,  168. 

defined,  723. 

egg,  167. 

and  cheese,  200. 

lobster,  154. 

rice,  482. 

sweetbread,  i/o. 

time  for  baking,  728. 

turkey,  168. 

Time-tables  for  cooking,  725-728. 
Tinware,  to  keep  from  rusting,  710. 
Tipsy  pudding,  570. 


Toast,  75- 

anchovy,  76,  161,  223. 

asparagus  on,  427. 

banana,  166. 

brains  on,  180. 

brown-bread,  205. 

buttered,  75. 

celery,  206. 

cheese  custard,  77. 

clams  on,  102. 

cream,  76, 

deviled,  205. 

fried,  76. 

German,  75. 

green  pepper,  136. 

ham,  77. 

milk,  baked,  75. 

mushrooms  on,  77,  135,  212. 

oyster,  77. 

plain,  205. 

sandwiched,  206. 

sardine,  76. 

tomato,  76,  205. 

minced  mutton  and,  128. 

water,  66 1. 
Toasted  anchovy  crackers,  206. 

crackers,  206. 
Tomato  and  bean  soup,  323,  326. 

and  corn  salad,  235. 

and  corn  soup,  331. 

and  crab  salad,  227. 

and  lettuce  salad,  229. 

and  peanut  salad,  236. 

and  rice  croquettes,  480. 

and  rice  soup,  330. 

and  shrimp  salad,  227. 

aspic,  235. 

shrimp  salad  and,  227. 

bisque,  318. 

catsup,  650. 

croquettes,  490. 

cups  and  saucers,  210. 

farcie,  210. 

fritters,  491. 

omelet,  493. 

preserves,  625. 

salad,  iced,  236. 

sauce,  356. 

breaded  tongue  with,  181. 

soup,  cream  of,  319. 
red,  326. 

toast^  76,  205. 

minced  mutton  and,  128. 
Tomatoes  a  la  creme,  492. 

and  bacon,  135. 


INDEX 


Tomatoes  and  baked  beans,  212. 
and  cheese,  199. 
and  corn,  447,  491. 
canned,  691. 
scalloped,  447. 
and  eggs,  85. 

poached  or  fried,  492. 
scalloped,  210. 
broiled,  134. 

and  bacon,  135. 
canned  whole,  689,  690. 
creamed,  489. 
curried,  493. 
fried,  134,  135. 
green,  broiled,  135. 

curried,  493. 

fried,  135. 

pickled,  637. 

sweet  pickles,  646. 
grilled,  134. 

halibut  steak  baked  with,  343. 
mutton  mince  with,  178. 
omelets  caches,  167. 
raw,  488. 

and  cucumbers,  489. 

and  whipped  cream,  235,  489. 
rump  steak  and,  177. 
scalloped,  490. 
stewed,  489. 

canned,  690. 

time  for  cooking,  727. 
stuffed,  490. 

with  corn,  492. 

with  macaroni,  492. 

with  meat,  491. 

with  rice,  492. 

with  whipped  cream,  235,  489. 
Tongue,  boiled,  373,  375. 
braised,  374. 

sauce  for,  374,  375. 
breaded,  tomato  sauce,  181. 
cold,  to  use  up,  179. 
corned,  376. 

time  for  ^cooking,  726. 
Italian  entree,  375. 
jellied,  175. 

lamb's,  barbecued,  128. 
minced,  and  eggs,  8l. 
rolls  stuffed  with,  612. 
salad,  235. 
sandwiches,  219. 
tomatoes  stuffed  with,  491. 
"Toss-up"  of  veal,  172. 
Tough  beefsteak,  ways  of  cooking, 


Tough    meat,   to   make   tender,    13, 
695,  696. 

poultry,  to  make  tender,  13. 

turkey,  best  way  to  cook,  403. 
Trifle,  peach,  569. 

pound  cake,  569. 

raspberry,  569. 

rhubarb,  570. 
Tripe  and  celery,  stewed,  115. 

and  oyster,  stewed,  115. 

boiled,  114. 

fried,  115. 

sauce  for,  115. 

how  to  buy,  114. 

stewed,  114. 
Trout,  baked,  cream  gravy,  345. 

boiled,  344. 

broiled,  time  for  cooking,  726. 

fried,  98,  345. 

See  also,  Salmon  trout. 
Truffles,  defined,  723. 
Turkey     and     oysters     (or     mush- 
rooms), scalloped,  402. 

and  sausage  pudding,  403. 

boiled,  403. 

time  for  cooking,  726. 

croquettes,  126,  189. 

dressing  for,  400,  401. 

fillets  of,  with  rice,  401. 

how  to  carve,  16. 

mince  turn-over,  174. 

ragout  of,  403. 

roast,  400. 

rechauffe,  402. 

time  for  cooking,  725. 

rolls  stuffed  with,  612. 

salad,  226. 

scallops,  126,  197. 

timbales,  168. 

to  prepare  for  cooking,  404. 

ways  of  cooking,  400. 

wild,  420. 

"Turkey  rack"  soup,  312. 
Turnips  and  carrots  sautes,  495. 

boiled,  plain,  494. 

time  for  cooking,  727. 

care  of,  6. 

fried,  494. 

kohlrabi,  495. 

with  leaves,  495. 

mashed,  494. 

soup,  330.  < 

stewed  with  cream,  494. 

with  white  sauce,  494. 
Turnovers,  515. 


INDEX 


779 


Turnovers,  mince,  174. 
Turtle,  fricasseed,  348. 

imitation  terrapin  (chicken),  126. 

Maryland  terrapin,  158. 

mock  (calf's  head),  383. 

soup,  mock,  304. 

terrapin,  stewed,  347. 
Tutti-frutti,  623. 

denned,  723. 

ice  cream,  587. 

jelly  of  canned  fruit,  574. 
Two-and-two    Indian-meal   muffins, 

73- 

UTENSILS,  care  of,  9. 

VANILLA  blanc  mange,  563. 
cookies,  288. 
ice  cream,  581. 

sauce  for,  chocolate,    581. 
maple,  582. 
strawberry,  582. 
junket,  568. 
sauce,  532,  553. 
Vanities,  291. 
Varnish,  to  clean,  699. 
Veal  and  ham  croquettes,  191. 
and  macaroni,  457. 
and  rice  broth,  305. 
and  sago  broth,  305. 
and  spaghetti  croquettes,  190. 
and  tapioca  soup,  305. 
bones  for  soup,  4. 
breast,  a  la  jardiniere,  378. 

roast,  379. 

Brunswick  stew,  423. 
chops,  broiled,  127. 

fried,  127. 

pie,  393- 

recommended,  4. 
croquettes,  189. 

celery  toast  with,  206. 
curried,  171. 
cutlets,  377. 

and  bacon,  127. 

breaded,  379. 

chops  better  than,  4. 

fried,  127. 

fillet,  roast,  stuffed,  378. 
galantine,  179. 
how  to  select,  4. 
larded,  380. 
leg,  roast,  377. 
loaf,  175- 


Veal  loaf,  raw  meat,  182. 
mince  turnover,  174. 
minced,  baked,  171. 

garnished  with  eggs,  172. 
mock  squabs,  379. 
pie,  390,  39i. 
pressed,  175. 
roast,  best  cuts,  4. 

time  for  cooking,  725. 
salad,  239. 

sandwiches,  216. 
season  for,  4. 
shoulder,  roast,  377. 
steaks,  mushroom  sauce,  378. 
toast  sandwich,  206. 
"toss-up"  of,  172. 
Virginia  stew,  423. 
ways  of  cooking,  377. 
with  sauce  piquante,  174. 
Vegetable  soups,  with  meat,  322. 

without  meat,  328. 
See  Soups ;  Name  of  vegetable. 
Vegetables,  boiling,  time  for,  727. 
care  of,  6. 
for  breakfast,  131. 
for  dinner,  427. 
for  luncheon,  207. 
green,  how  to  keep,  8. 
how  to  keep,  6. 
mushrooms,  buying,  459. 
rice  pudding  as,  481.  _ 
ways  of  cooking,  artichokes,  430. 

asparagus,  427. 

beans,  433. 

beets,  437. 

cabbage,  438. 

carrots,  441. 

cauliflower,  442. 

celery,  443. 

corn,  green,  445. 

cucumbers,  448. 

dandelions,  451. 

eggplant,  452. 

kale,  455. 

mushrooms,  459. 

onions,  461. 

parsnips,  497. 

peas,  green,  463. 

peppers,  465. 

poke  stalks,  467. 

potatoes,  468. 

salsify,  or  oyster-plant,  483. 

spinach,  484. 

squash,  486. 

sweet  potatoes,  477. 


78o 


INDEX 


Vegetables,  ways  of  cooking,  toma- 
toes, 488. 

turnips,  494. 
See  Canned  vegetables ;  Name  of 

vegetable. 

Veloute,  defined,  723. 
"Velvets,"  molasses,  593. 
Venison,  baked,  time  for  cooking, 

725. 

loin,  haunch,  or  leg,  416. 

pie,  426. 

saddle  of,  415. 

steak,  130,  416. 
Vermicelli  soup,  332. 

See  Macaroni. 
Vienna  rolls,  56. 
Vinegar,  blackberry,  655. 

pepper,  651. 

pie,  516. 

raspberry,  655. 
Virginia  beaten  biscuits,  62. 

fried  chicken,  123. 

stew  of  squirrels,  423. 

wafers,  611. 
Vol-au-vent,  defined,  723. 

WAFERS,  clam,  222. 

graham,  616. 

lemon,  616. 

orange.  616. 

peanut,  616. 

vanilla,  616. 

Virginia,  611. 

water,  269. 
Waffles,  corn,  75. 

quick,  66. 

rice,  65. 

risen,  65. 

Waiting  and  serving,  18. 
Walls,  painted,  to  clean,  699. 
Walnut  candy,  molasses,  593. 

catsup,  650. 

creams,  597. 

sandwiches,  215. 
Walnuts,  Marguerites,  613. 
Wash-bowls,  to  clean,  695. 
Washing  compound,  708. 

for  removing  stains,  702. 
Washington  pie,  515. 
Washstands,  marble,  to  clean,  699. 
Wasp  sting,  to  draw  poison,  707. 
Water  crackers,  269. 

to  clear,  14. 

wafers,  269. 


Watercress  and  apple  salad,  238. 

salad,  230. 

sandwiches,  216. 
Watermelon-rind  pickles,  639. 

preserves,  626. 

Wax  beans,  German,  steamed,  436. 
Wax   for  sealing  jars  and  bottles, 

633. 

Weights  and  measures,  724. 
Welsh  rarebit,  nonpareil,  202. 
Wheat,  preparations  of,  42. 
Whipped  cream, 

apple  snow,  561. 

banana  froth,  563. 

Charlotte  Russe,  568. 

chestnuts  with,  559,  561. 

fruited,  560. 

how  to  whip,  558. 

macaroon  Charlotte  Russe,  563. 

marrons  with,  559,  561. 

orange  and  cocoanut  delight,  562. 
cream,  559. 

peach  sponge,  560. 

peach  tapioca  with,  560. 

pie,  514. 

pineapple  Charlotte,  561. 
snow,  562. 

plain,  554. 

prune  Charlotte,  559. 

raspberry  cream  sponge,  562. 
float,  560. 

strawberry  float,  560. 

tomatoes  with,  235. 

with  macaroons,  561. 
White  barley  soup,  312. 

claret,   temperature  to  serve  at, 

673. 

fowl  soup,  313. 
fur  rug,  to  clean,  698. 
lace,  to  dry-clean,  701. 
lead,  antidote  for,  712. 
mountain  cake,  273. 

filling  for,  273. 
peppernuts,  290. 
roux,  defined,  722. 
sauce,  353. 
silk,  to  clean,  699. 
stock,  304. 
wines,   temperature  to  serve  at, 

673. 

Whitewash,  693,  709. 
Whole-wheat  bread,  48,  49. 

griddle-cakes,  67. 

muffins,  63. 


INDEX 


781 


Whooping-cough,  remedy  for,  712. 
Wild  cherry  bounce,  656. 

pigeons,  braised,  421. 
stewed,  421. 

turkey,  420. 

Window-garden,  how  to  make,  108. 
Windows,  to  clean,  699,  711. 
Wine,  cherry,  654. 

dandelion,  658. 

ginger,  658. 

grape,  656,  657. 

jelly,  574. 

rhubarb,  655. 

sarsaparilla,  659. 

sauce,  liquid,  555. 


Wine,  strawberry,  657. 

temperature  to  serve  at,  673. 
Wintergreen  candy,  597. 
Wood  fires,  to  build,  713,  714. 
Woodcock,  broiled,  130. 

roast,  416. 

Woodenware,  care  of,  10. 
Woodwork,  to  clean,  699. 
Wool,  to  remove  milk  from,  715. 

YELLOW  LACE,  to  clean,  699. 
Yorkshire  pudding,  367. 

ZINC,  to  cover  tables,  137. 
Zwieback,  defined,  723. 


